Every year for my birthday and our wedding anniversary, my husband and I seek out some sun and fun!
This year, we decided to do something a little different. We were going to seek out some adventure (and sun) in New Mexico. Our five days were all planned with hiking and driving and discovering…that is…until we found out that we would have to quarantine when we arrived.
Finding this information out the night before our departure left us scrambling for a new destination. Somewhere that did not require a quarantine was a bit hard to come by in the height of a pandemic, so we headed south to Florida where restrictions were a bit more loose.
Key West is a quaint island with lots of great restaurants, great nightlife and a ton of great tourist attractions and I have visited on a couple of other occasions. Something stuck out to on this trip as I walked down the stairs of the airplane and across the tarmac to the terminal.
“WELCOME TO THE CONCH REPUBLIC”, read a sign on the terminal.
Hmmm…I didn’t ever remember seeing this sign before and it got me to wondering what this Conch Republic thing was all about. Off to google it…
Apparently, in 1982, the United States Border Patrol was set on the idea that narcotics and illegal immigrants were being brought to the United States through the Florida Keys. A roadblock and inspection point was set up on US 1 and all vehicles were stopped and search.
The Key West City Council complained about the inconvenience for the tourists traveling to and from the Keys and that it was hurting the tourism industry. When repeated complaints continued to go unanswered, the local government decided to take matters into their own hands. If they were going to be treated like a foreign nation with a border, then they were going to become one.
The Mayor, Dennis Wardlow and the city council declared Key West’s independence on April 23, 1982 and took the name of the Conch Republic for the locals who are often referred to as Conchs. Though it was all done as tongue in cheek and not an official succession, Key West’s complaints finally resounded and the roadblocks were removed.
Locals still fondly remember this act of defiance and continue to embrace the name as a tourism booster.
Visitors love visiting Key West, but they love telling everyone, who doesn’t understand, that they were on vacation in the Conch Republic! If you really want to feel like you have visited a new nation, visit the website where you can purchase a Conch Republic passport…bet your traveling buddies don’t have one!
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Key West a.k.a The Conch Republic
Getting There: Many airlines fly directly to Key West. You can also drive the Overseas Highway from the southern tip of the Florida’s mainland all the way to Key West.
For some, it’s hard to envision what life might have been like 100 years ago.
Thankfully, there are some architectural landmarks around the country that have been lovingly preserved, so that we might be able to do so.
Some very good ones are nearby, in my hometown, Glen Allen.
Built in the 1920s, the Courtney Road gas station stands proudly on Mountain Road in Glen Allen, Virginia, a small town on the west end of Richmond. A “canopy style” station, which originated in 1916 by Standard Oil of Ohio for the transportation industry, it was owned by the Barlow family during a time of growth in the United States car manufacturing and road improvements. Sinclair gasoline and oil products were sold in the full-service station and customers could rely on prompt service by gas station attendants who, in addition to filling the tanks, cleaned windshields, checked the tires and “looked” under the hood.
Though the Courtney Road Station is not open to visitors except during special occasions or by appointment, you can park in the adjacent lot, walk under the canopy and inspect the old pumps.
Across Mountain Road, you can find Meadow Farm Museum, Crump Park and RF&P Park.
RF&P Park (within Crump Park) is home to the Glen Allen Athletic Association and the site of countless baseball, softball and football games on pristine, well-manicured fields. Many a weekend is spent here watching our children run the bases and score touchdowns. The real all-stars of the park, however, are actually “parked” near the fields.
Four restored Richmond, Fredericksburg & Potomac Railroad train cars sit proudly near the fields. At the baseball fields, the cars consists of a caboose, a steel coach and a postal car. A box car can be spotted at the softball fields.
These cars ran from Richmond to Washington D.C. on 113 miles of track (the shortest in the nation) which linked the North and South. You can climb onto the cars, inspect them closely and peer into the windows, however, the interiors are locked. They are the perfect location for photo ops for train lovers and those interested in Virginia’s historic transportation.
Also within Crump Park lies Meadow Farm Museum. Meadow Farm dates back to 1713, when Richard Baker and William Sheppard were granted 400 acres of property in Henrico county. In 1800, Meadow Farm was the site of an unsuccessful slave uprising which became known as Gabriel’s Rebellion and ten years, later, the present farmhouse was constructed by Mosby Sheppard. His son, Dr. John Mosby Sheppard, expanded the farm and passed it down to his grandson Major General Sheppard Crump, a veteran of World War I and Adjutant General of Virginia from 1955 to 1960. His wife, Elizabeth Adam Crump, was one of the first women in Virginia to receive a driver’s license and vote in public elections. In 1975, Elizabeth Adam Crump donated Meadow Farm to Henrico Country in memory of her late husband which was opened to the public in 1981.
Today, Meadow Farm Museum’s grounds are open to the public and consist of the farm house, a blacksmith forge and an orientation center. Costumed tour guides and staff present programs and exhibits on life during the farm’s heyday and on select weekends, demonstrations of the “life on the farm” take place in the farmhouse, barn, doctor’s office, blacksmith forge, kitchen, fields and pastures. Some of these programs include the annual Sheep Shearing event, Sheep to Shawl. It is the perfect place to take children to see many farm animals including chickens, turkeys, hogs, cows, horses and goats.
After visiting Meadow Farm Museum, you can enjoy Crump Park’s walking paths, ponds and playgrounds.
A little further down Mountain Road, there is another historic structure; the remains of Forest Lodge, which was built in the early 1880s by John Cussons. Cussons, an Englishman who served as a scout and lieutenant in the Confederate army and was captured in Gettysburg, returned to Glen Allen after the war and married Susan Sheppard Allen, the sister of Dr. John Sheppard of Meadow Farm and the widow of Benjamin Allen, for whom Glen Allen was named. He built the lodge as a resort along the RF&P Railroad where it intersected with Mountain Road. With 125 rooms and six stories, the luxurious resort was surrounded by a one thousand acre park which included trails, lakes and wild game.
Upon John Cussons death in 1912, the property exchanged hands multiple times until half of it was torn down. Used as office space and apartments, it was demolished in 1992. Today, you can park just off of Mountain Road and visit what is left of the historic lodge. The tower and surrounding columns are original elements from the Forest Lodge that were salvaged during its razing.
I have driven by some of these places often, visited on field trips and even taken my children’s prom and senior pictures at these locations. It is strange how I would probably go out of my way in another locale to seek out these historic structures and remains, yet, I really never took much time to stop and appreciate them.
Today, I finally did…in good ole’ Glen Allen.
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Courtney Road Station
Address: 3401 Mountain Road, Henrico, Virginia 23060
Hours: 24 hours, daily for outside viewing. By appointment only for interior visits.
Admission: free
RF&P Park
Address: 3400 Mountain Road, Glen Allen, Virginia 23060
Hours: Grounds open daily.
Admission: free
Crump Park
Address: 3400 Mountain Road, Glen Allen, Virginia 23060
Hours: dawn to dusk
Admission: free
Meadow Farm Museum
Address: 3400 Mountain Road, Glen Allen, Virginia 23060
Hours: Grounds are open daily from dawn to dusk. Tours of the farmhouse begin at 1300 and the last tour is held at 1530.
Admission: free
Forest Lodge
Address: Mountain Road & Old Washington Highway, Glen Allen, VA 23060
Hours: Interior not open to the public. Grounds open 24 hours, daily.
When I was a child, I remember my mother watching “The Song of Bernadette”.
The “Song of Bernadette” was about a young peasant girl, Bernadette Soubirous, who had visions of a beautiful woman in the city of Lourdes, France. Determined to be the Virgin Mary by the citizens of the town, she was later canonized as a saint by the Catholic church.
Though I have been to France many times, I always thought that it would be nice to visit Lourdes, one of the most important sites of pilgrimage in the world. Instead of the Grotto of Lourdes in France, however, I was able to visit a shrine which honors Our Lady of Lourdes, a little closer to home.
The National Shrine Grotto, located in Emmitsburg, Maryland, is a treasure that I had no idea existed until I was headed to Gettysburg. Passing Mount Saint Mary’s University on Highway 15, I noticed a glimmer on the mountain behind the school.
While scoping out the map for information on The Shrine of Saint Elizabeth Seton, I noticed the National Shrine Grotto on the map adjacent to the university. Deciding to check it out, I drove up the mountain road to the parking lot next to the St. Anthony’s Shrine Cemetery.
My anticipation was immediately appeased when I spotted what had caught my attention from the highway…the Pangborn Memorial Campanile, a 95 foot tower topped with a gold-leafed bronze statue of the Blessed Mother. Reflecting the dim light of the cloudy afternoon, it was breathtaking and I could only imagine what it would look like on a sunny day.
Making my way down the hill to the Dubois-Seton Garden, for a better view of the campanile, I made the circle from the Archbishop John Hughes cabin to the different statues and landmarks lining the walkway; the Celtic Cross, the Blessed Virgin Mary, the Sacred Heart, St. Joseph and the Child Jesus, Our Lady of Medjugorje, St. Vincent de Paul, Our Lady of La Vang and Monsignor Hugh Phillips.
Opposite the campanile, I reached the Chapel of St. Mary’s on the Hill or “The Glass Chapel” where mass is held daily at noon. Opening up my umbrella to shield me from the newly falling mist, I passed the St. Teresa of Calcutta Memorial Garden on the Seton Walkway enroute to Corpus Christi Lane. Assuming I was headed in the right direction to the grotto, I was not surprised to first find the Stations of the Cross set within the heavily forested pathway.
Stations of the Cross
Finding myself at a small fountain with a statue of Our Lady of the Esplanade in its center, I noticed the Chapel of Corpus Christi, built in 1905 on the site of the original grotto created by Father DuBois, just beyond. It is here that the Grotto mountain water springs forth and you are able to fill your own container. If you are lucky, you may find a grotto chaplain nearby to bless the water.
Passing the chapel, I finally came upon what I was in search of, the Grotto Cave. A replica of the Grotto of Lourdes in France, it was built by seminarians in 1875. There were enscribed pews lined in front of the grotto for prayer and reflection but because of the light rain, we found ourselves huddling under the nearby overhang while waiting for our turn to venture into the cave. Across from the cave is a statue of St. Bernadette Soubirous.
Taking a right, at the end of the lane I discovered the Calvary, Crucifixion Scene. The present crucifix replaced the old wooden cross erected by Father DuBois in 1815.
Making my way back down the mountain, I veered to the left at the fountain on to Rosary Lane. Instead of the stations of the cross, I discovered shrines to the fifteen mysteries of the rosary, Padre Pio, Our Lady of LaVang, St. John Paul II, St. Faustina, the Holy Family and others.
While it would have been nice to sit on one of the many benches and spend some time in silent contemplation, the rain was coming down harder and there was no cover along the pathway. Hoping to make it into the Richard and Mary Lee Miller Family Visitor’s Center, I discovered that, like many other things during this Covid crisis, it was closed.
The best discovery of the day, however, was that I didn’t have to travel all the way to France to pay homage to the Grotto of Lourdes. It had been nearby all along!
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As a Catholic school girl, it was de rigueur to learn about the many saints of my religion.
There are over 10,000 named saints and blessed people. Christians began honoring other Christians around 100 A.D. with many of the first saints being martyrs who had given up their lives during the persecution for their faith, a custom that was appropriated from the Jewish faith in which prophets and holy people were revered and honored with shrines.
While a schoolgirl, the most beloved saints, and the ones I remembered most, hailed from other countries; Saint Francis of Assisi (Italy), Saint Patrick (Ireland), Saint Anthony of Padua (Italy), Saint Christopher (Canaan), Saint Patrick (Ireland), Saint Theresa of Avila (Spain), Saint Bernadette (France). In 1975, just after I began third grade, I remember my teacher, Sister Mary Cecilia, giving us some important information. The first American-born saint had been canonized…Saint Elizabeth Seton.
I don’t remember learning much more about her at the time…learning to duplicate Sister Cecilia’s neat cursive handwriting seemed much more crucial.
Years later, during a visit to Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, a familiar name popped up on the map in the nearby town of Emmitsburg, Maryland…that of Elizabeth Seton.
The fact that a shrine to this American saint was located in a very small town in Maryland was quite puzzling as I knew that she was a New York native. Gettysburg had been my main destination on this trip, but once I learned of this shrine, it was a place that I simply had to visit and the mystery as to how St. Elizabeth Seton ended up here would be solved.
An arresting film in the museum presented St. Elizabeth Seton’s life in a brief twelve minutes.
Elizabeth Ann Bayley was born in New York City on August 28, 1774 in the Episcopal faith. Married at the age of nineteen to William Magee Seton, she had five children. During a trip to Italy with her husband, she was moved by the deep faith of those who practiced Catholicism. Before their return home, however, William passed away from tuberculosis, leaving her a widow. Seeking consolation and the desire to experience the deep faith that she had witnessed in Italy, Elizabeth decided to convert to Catholicism two years later, despite criticism from friends and family,
Portraits of the Seton Family, Mother Seton, top right
Working as a teacher for a short time, in order to support herself and her children, she was approached by a visiting priest, the Abbe Louis William Valentine Dubourg, a member of the French émigré community of Sulpician Fathers and then president of St. Mary’s College of Baltimore Maryland. Abbe Dubourg extended an invitation for Elizabeth to move to Emmitsburg and establish the Saint Joseph’s Academy and Free School, dedicated to the education of Catholic girls on land bestowed by Samuel Sutherland Cooper, a wealthy convert and seminarian at the newly established Mount Saint Mary’s University.
On July 31, 1809, Elizabeth Seton established the first congregation of religious sisters to be founded in the United States, which was dedicated to the care of the children of the poor. With the initiation of Sisters of Charity of St. Joseph’s, Elizabeth adopted the title of “Mother Seton”. Mother Seton, along with the sisters, worked tirelessly until her death on January 4, 1821, at the age of 46.
Touring the museum, I learned a great deal about Elizabeth Seton’s remarkable life from illustrations, anecdotes, 19th century artifacts and letters written by the saint. The 40 Years A Saint exhibit detailed how she became a saint and highlighted the event on September 14, 1975, when Pope Paul VI proclaimed her a saint.
“Elizabeth Ann Seton is a saint. St. Elizabeth Ann Seton is an American. All of us say this with special joy, and with the intention of honoring the land and the nation from which she sprang forth as the first flower in the calendar of the saints. Elizabeth Ann Seton was wholly American! Rejoice for your glorious daughter. Be proud of her. And know how to preserve her fruitful heritage.” –Pope Paul VI
This exhibit’s focal point is the actual banner which hung in St. Peter’s Square on the day of her canonization.
Moving on to the basilica located upstairs from the museum, I was extremely moved by the the artistic beauty of the building. Originally designed as a chapel for the sisters of the Daughters of Charity, upon her beatification it was decided that it would serve as her National Shrine. Completed in 1965, the main feature is the altar for Saint Elizabeth. Here, in the Altar of Relics, is where Saint Elizabeth Seton’s remains are entombed in a copper casket enclosed in marble and topped with a statue of the saint, sculpted in Italy and depicting Mother Seton dressed in the habit that she and the Sisters of Charity wore beginning in 1809.
Altar of Relics
Stepping out of the basilica into the beautiful sunny afternoon, a day fit for visiting a saint, I ventured through the well manicured lawn to the Stone House, one of the first homes that Elizabeth Seton lived in when she first arrived in Emmitsburg. The home, which had been expanded over the years to accommodate the growing number of sisters, is usually available for self-guided tours. Due to the Covid restrictions, however, this and none of the other buildings throughout the premises were open. There was an audio recording that I was able to play and listen to while I peered into the windows at the period furnishings that still decorate the structure.
Moving through the gardens, I made my way over to the White House, the first house of the Sisters of Charity. Originally called “St. Joseph’s House” for Elizabeth Seton’s high regard of the saint, it is fully furnished with items that include those in existence for nearly 200 years and includes a schoolroom, much like the one Saint Elizabeth taught in, and a small chapel. Again, the interior was not open to visitors, but a recording was available at the back door.
The cemetery was a short walk away. As Mother Seton, her sister-in-law, Harriet, and other sisters walked through the woods searching for a cemetery site, the story has been passed on that Harriet threw an apple core against an old oak and declared it to be her final resting spot. Sadly, it was where they laid Harriet to rest only four months later.
Surrounded by a high wall set with bronze stations of the cross, the cemetery is the final resting place of many graves of Sisters and Daughters of Charity. As I walked toward the center, I discovered the Mortuary Chapel. Built by Elizabeth’s son, William to honor his mother, her remains laid in rest here for only a short while. In 1846, they were transferred to the chapel’s vault and later exhumed for her beatification. As I saw earlier, they rest in the basilica.
Mortuary ChapelFormer Resting Spot of Mother SetonStations of the Cross
My visit to the National Shrine of Saint Elizabeth Seton had come to an end. So much information was imparted on me that I felt like once again, I was at St. Joseph’s School in Sister Cecelia’s religion class. Thinking that I was going to only learn about Gettysburg and the ghosts of Civil War past, I discovered so much more about the first American saint.
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Address: 339 South Seton Avenue, Emmitsburg, Maryland 21727-9297
Hours: Visitor’s Center, Museum, Gift Shop, Monday-Saturday, 1000-1700 and Sunday, 1200-1700. Basilica, Monday-Sunday, 1000-1700.
Mass Schedule: Sunday-Friday, 1330. Confession and Adoration, Monday-Friday, prior to Mass from 1215-1315.
Admission: free
Getting There: The shrine is located along US 15, about 10 miles south of Gettysburg and within a one to two-hour drive of major metropolitan areas, like Frederick and Baltimore, MD, Washington, DC, and Harrisburg, PA.
Just south of the Mason Dixon line lies the town of Emmitsburg, Maryland.
You’ve probably never heard of it?
I never had.
While on a trip to Gettysburg, I drove by this small town and learned that there were some important places of interest located here. I decided that when I departed Gettysburg, I would make a detour through Emmitsburg and see for myself what it was all about.
Once known as Poplar Fields or Silver Fancy in the 1780s, it was renamed for a local landowner, William Emmit. Widely known for two pilgrimage sites, the National Shrine Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes and the Basilica and National Shrine of St. Elizabeth Ann Seton, which I planned to visit, I also learned that there are a few other historical buildings within the town.
Just eleven miles south of Gettysburg, I drove through a quaint town with neatly kept colonial buildings and a rich history. Emmitsburg’s town square was the site of the town water pump and distinguished with a beautiful Victorian fountain which operated for more than forty years. During the summer of 1863, a great fire swept through the town and destroyed approximately forty homes. Almost one quarter of the town was destroyed and fifty-five families were left homeless. The town’s progress was greatly diminished by the fire and many had to seek employment elsewhere. Only a month later, both Union and Confederate soldiers traveled through the town on their way to what would be the Battle of Gettysburg. Confederate General J.E.B. Stuart and the 34th Virginia Calvary engaged here in a small battle with Federal troops which resulted in the capture of 70 Union soldiers and their captain.
I decided to park my car and take a walk through the downtown area. There were many churches, but it was the Catholic Church of St. Joseph that drew me in. Established in 1852, the steeple was added to the church in 1863 and multiple renovations completed during the next forty years. The church was relatively uncomplicated with a single aisle and a main altar. A beautiful painting of its patron saint, St. Joseph, was hanging behind the altar, a round portrait of the Holy Family located on the ceiling and there were some stunning arched stained glass windows lining its walls. After my visit was complete, I took a walk around the cemetery, inspecting the headstones, most dating back to the early and mid 1800s.
Getting back to my car, I next headed to the National Emergency Training Center campus which is located on the former grounds of Saint Joseph College. Located here is the Emergency Management Institute, the National Fire Academy and the National Fallen Firefighters Memorial. The latter was what I intended to see, however, the entrances to the campus were all closed.
It was the Shrine to St. Elizabeth Seton and the National Shrine Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes that I wanted to visit next, however, I discovered two other picturesque buildings near the road to the Grotto. St. Anthony’s Shrine, a gorgeous stone church, has roots dating back to the 1700s, however the edifice dates back to its dedication in 1897. The church was not open, however, even in the light rain that was falling, it was a fascinating and striking fabrication with its red contrasts. A short walk led me to another building marked St. Anthony Little School House, established in 1890. Again, the building was not open, however, I gather that it was a public schoolhouse created for use by the local children.
Side trips aside, it was time to make make my way to the Shrine of St. Elizabeth Seton and the National Shrine of Our Lady of Lourdes. Though Emmitsburg was an interesting detour, these were the sites that I couldn’t wait to see (and they were open for business!)
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Many soldiers gave their lives in the Battle of Gettysburg.
The battlefield’s landscape is dotted with numerous monuments which commemorate the Union and Confederate troops that fought there. More monuments can be found at the National Cemetery, which together with the battlefield form the Gettysburg National Military Park. Though many of dead soldiers’ souls may still roam the battlefield, it is there, in the cemetery, that you are reminded of who they were from their headstones.
After the Battle of Gettysburg, the toll on both sides consisted of the loss or mortal wounding of 10,000 lives, 30,000 injuries and 10,000 soldiers captured or missing. Because of the mass casualties, most of the deceased soldiers were hastily buried in shallow graves, marked by their names scrawled on wooden crosses. Exposure to the elements began to cause the erosion of the impromptu graves and it was determined that there was an immediate need for proper burials.
The decision was made to build a cemetery, using the site from which the Union center repulsed Pickett’s Charge, and ground was broken four months after the battle on October 27, 1863. Union soldiers were relocated to the cemetery and efforts were eventually made to move the Confederate soldiers’ remains to Virginia, Georgia and the Carolinas, although there are a few that remain in Gettysburg National Cemetery.
Having been to Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond, Virginia, I have seen the graves of these Confederate soldiers. I was anxious to walk around the historic cemetery in Gettysburg to observe any similarities, but I also knew that the Gettysburg National Cemetery was famous for more than gravesites, markers and monuments. There is something that makes this cemetery stand apart from landmarks in the city and other Civil War cemeteries.
On November 19, 1863, at the cemetery’s dedication, President Abraham Lincoln stood among these departed souls and delivered a two-minute address about the sacrifices of war and the necessity of holding the Union together.
The Gettysburg Address.
Four score and seven years ago our fathers brought forth on this continent, a new nation, conceived in Liberty, and dedicated to the proposition that all men are created equal.
Now we are engaged in a great civil war, testing whether that nation, or any nation so conceived and so dedicated, can long endure. We are met on a great battle-field of that war. We have come to dedicate a portion of that field, as a final resting place for those who here gave their lives that that nation might live. It is altogether fitting and proper that we should do this.
But, in a larger sense, we can not dedicate — we can not consecrate — we can not hallow — this ground. The brave men, living and dead, who struggled here, have consecrated it, far above our poor power to add or detract. The world will little note, nor long remember what we say here, but it can never forget what they did here. It is for us the living, rather, to be dedicated here to the unfinished work which they who fought here have thus far so nobly advanced. It is rather for us to be here dedicated to the great task remaining before us — that from these honored dead we take increased devotion to that cause for which they gave the last full measure of devotion — that we here highly resolve that these dead shall not have died in vain — that this nation, under God, shall have a new birth of freedom — and that government of the people, by the people, for the people, shall not perish from the earth. —Abraham Lincoln, November 19, 1863
As I entered the gates on Taneytown Road, I immediately came upon the podium which was erected for visiting presidents who attend memorial ceremonies. To the right, is Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address Memorial.
The memorial is a semicircular stone monument which includes a bronze bust of the president, sculpted by Henry K. Bush-Brown, and two tablets on either side, one of which highlights the short speech. Though many think that such a profound address would have been inked on many pages, one of the greatest highlights of American history was only ten sentences long.
Though the memorial commemorates the Lincoln and the Gettysburg Address, the location of the great oration actually took place about three hundred yards from this spot, so I headed in that direction determined to find where it took place.
The cemetery is designed as a wide semi-circle with the Soldier’s National Monument at its center. Radiating from the monument are sections divided by state; smaller states closest to the monument and larger states along the outside. The Soldier’s National Monument, designed by the Batterson-Canfield Company is a mighty granite shaft rising from a four cornered pedestal and bearing sculptures crafted by Randolph Rogers representing war, history, plenty and peace. Glancing to the top of the shaft is the statue, “Genius of Liberty”, crowning its peak. The monument is notable as being near the location of the dais of the dedication ceremony where Lincoln delivered the Gettysburg Address. Numerous smaller monuments also dot the cemetery’s landscape, including a memorial to the Union soldiers of New York and a monument to Major General John F. Reynolds.
Soldier’s National MonumentMemorial to the Union soldiers of New York and Monument to Major General John F. Reynolds
As I made my way around the grand monument and then the remainder of the cemetery, I encountered impeccable funerary grounds, maintained by the National Park Service, with a landscape dotted with cannons, concrete pathways and marble headstones.
As I reverently made my way through the premises, I discovered that although the majority of the graves accommodate the remains of Union Soldiers, the government later added sections for veterans from the Spanish-American War, World Wars I and II, the Korean War and the Vietnam War, bringing the total of veterans that are laid to rest here to more than 6,000.
When I first entered the grounds, the rain which had started during my tour of the battlefield had slowed to a hazy mist. The gloaming of the late afternoon, in addition, added to the sobering realization of just what I was surrounded by.
Not only is it a place where a speech of great magnitude was articulated by one of the greatest men in our country’s history, but it is a place where immeasurable bravery and patriotism was laid to rest. It is a place where we were reminded by President Lincoln why our great country was worth fighting for. A hallowed ground…not only for the lives lost, but the lives that continued and still continue on.
In this election year, it is important to remember the vision of our founding fathers, the lives that were given to bring our country to where it is today and to enjoy the freedoms that we have been given.
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Covered bridges are a source of fascination for many and there are a few located in the southern Pennsylvania and northern Maryland areas. One, in particular, is located in Gettysburg near the battlefields and was used by both Union and Confederate soldiers.
In addition to my explorations of the Gettysburg battlefields, I had anticipated side trips into the countryside to each of these.
After leaving the Eisenhower home, however, I passed by an old trestle bridge. There were a few people standing on the bridge, which was closed to traffic, and I thought that it might be a good photo opportunity.
Parking and exiting my car, I made my way through the overgrowth on the road’s shoulder onto the bridge. A plaque on the left, identified it as the John Eisenhower bridge and one on the right, displayed details of its builders, Gilbert & Smith, and the date of its completion, 1886.
The bridge was in a state of decomposition and it’s position being infringed upon by creeping vines and weeds. Nevertheless, it was nice to observe the rushing, clear water beneath and listen to the birds chirping in the trees.
Only staying a few minutes, I hopped back on the road to complete my battlefield tour.
It was a bit later that evening, that I learned from my waiter, that the John Eisenhower bridge has been dubbed the “Suicide Bridge”. Now, there are many haunted sites throughout Gettysburg, some I knew about, however, I was curious about this one.
A little digging left me without any further knowledge about the bridge’s history but the idea that this is a paranormal hot spot, thought to be frequented by ghosts from those that have ended their lives here by hanging. Many ghost tours take you to this location, their guests hoping to see a ghostly apparition or experience energy from the other side.
I can tell you that had I known this earlier, I might have been a little apprehensive about spending time in this location. To be fair, however, it was broad daylight and didn’t seem so creepy.
Now, nighttime is another thing and I hear that many people head there during the dead of night, hoping to capture some sort of eerie phenomenon!
Where does a President of the United States go for some downtime?
For President Truman, it was Key West, Florida. For President George W. Bush, it was Kennebunkport, Maine.
For President Dwight D. Eisenhower, it was his home in Gettysburg.
Tucked away near the historic Gettysburg Battlefield, is the former home of President Eisenhower, which served the president and the first lady as a weekend retreat to escape the stresses of city and presidential life. Though both preferred to leave their responsibilities in Washington D.C., sometimes they brought some of it with them by having some of the world’s leaders as guests at their retreat.
Having purchased the home in 1950 for their retirement, General Eisenhower had to vacate the premises soon after to assume command of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization in Europe. During their absence, friends took over the maintenance and daily operations of the farm.
Two years later, Eisenhower, back in the United States, was elected President. Though his primary residence became the White House, he and his wife, Mamie visited their farm as often as possible with the President taking a hands-on approach when on site. So enthralled with the success of his farm, he received one of the most personally meaningful awards of his lifetime. The first, “Honorary Master Farmer” was bestowed upon the President in July 1963.
Set amidst the fields and mountains of Gettysburg, the home was perfect for Mamie and Ike with its large kitchen, eight bedrooms, nine bathrooms, stately living room, formal dining room, glassed-in porch and 495 acres. Today, the home still retains most of its original furnishings and during regular times, tours offer an intimate look into the life and times of the President and the First Lady.
Because of Covid 19 restrictions, the Eisenhower Home and Reception Center are closed, however, the grounds of Eisenhower National Historic Site are open and visitors may drive themselves instead of taking the bus service from the Gettysburg Visitor’s Center.
Reception Center
Though I would have loved to have taken a peek inside the presidential home, to get a glimpse of the First Lady’s very pink bathroom, the bedroom where Indian Prime Minister Nehru stayed during his visits, the President’s office and the many gifts of State, I had to be content to wander the grounds and only imagine what lay behind the drawn curtains.
Nevertheless, the grounds were well maintained and it was easy to follow the path around the 4100 square foot, Georgian-style house, which also boasts a barn with an attached office designated for the Secret Service, a reception center, a greenhouse and a tea house. There was a putting green behind the house where the President spent many hours perfecting his game and a helipad so that the he could come and go on his own schedule.
Secret Service Office Attached to the Milking BarnGreenhouseTea HouseThe President’s Putting Green
As you drive onto the grounds, you will spot the barns and sheds where the President’s prized herds were cared for. Though I noticed a path leading to these areas, it was not clear whether visitors were allowed during these uncertain times.
Standing behind the house, I reveled in the quiet and beautiful scenery all around me. I had only encountered one other set of visitors at the beginning of my self-guided tour and realized why the President made it a point to take a leave from the city and his responsibilities so often.
With so much peace and beauty all around, if I were the leader of the free world, I would have too! But Key West might be a better choice for me!
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As a believer in the paranormal, some of my favorite television shows are about ghosts!
The ones pertaining to ghost hunting captivate my interest because these paranormal researchers visit some of the most haunted places in the world and the United States. One Saturday night, I remember watching an episode which highlighted Gettysburg Battlefield and the apparitions that inhabit the once bloody battlefields. I was intrigued! Knowing that Gettysburg was only a few hours away, I vowed to take a road trip one day.
Many years passed and there never seemed to be enough time to squeeze that trip in between my work and personal travels. I had been all over the world…Greece, Vietnam, Paris…you name it…but I had yet to fulfill this one seemingly small visit to the nearby state.
This year, amidst the Covid 19 restrictions, I found myself with more spare time than I could have ever imagined. Because I could not get to my job easily, I was forced to take a leave for a few months. At first, it was quite difficult to be home so much more than I was accustomed. Nothing was open, so I found myself quite bored. Eventually, however, things began to reopen and I decided that even if I couldn’t travel with my job to the international places that I was used to, I could still try and visit the many attractions in my state and the ones nearby.
One day, I packed my suitcase and decided that it was the day…the day to finally visit Gettysburg and maybe some of its ghosts!
After a quick visit to the national park website, I gathered the information needed for a successful trip, arrived in record time and checked into my hotel. Deciding to purchases tickets to explore the visitor’s center, which I felt was a necessity, I then elected to skip the tour bus (and crowds), download the Gettysburg Battle Auto Tour and do it myself!
Arriving at the opening time, I said hello to a “socially distancing” Abe Lincoln and made my way through the Visitor’s Center, taking my place in line for my time slot for the film, A New Birth of Freedom. Along with the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War, the film and the museum’s exhibits gave me the background of the events that led to the brutal three-day Battle of Gettysburg, fought between the Union and Confederate soldiers in June 1863. A major turning point in the Civil War, this battle saw more than 51,000 Americans killed, wounded or missing, most under General Robert E. Lee’s command. The museum contained a great deal of information of events that led up to the war, the war itself and the conditions that dictated the soldier’s lives. There were old photographs, soldiers’ uniforms, musical instruments ammunitions, letters, flags and a tribute to the ones that gave their lives for the cause that they believed in. Protected under glass, I spotted letters from Abraham Lincoln and headlines from his death in 1865. One of the most interesting exhibits, however, were the wooden ceiling joists taken from Gettysburg resident, John Forney’s farm. Hanging above our heads, you could see where a single artillery projectile pierced what once supported his house.
Though I was not sure what the Cyclorama would entail, after the film, I followed the crowds up the escalators to the upper level. The 360 degree painting, by artist Paul Philippoteaux, that surrounded us, depicted Pickett’s Charge, the Confederate attack on the Union forces on July 3, 1863. Once the equivalent of an IMAX theater, the life sized painting, which took over a year and a half to complete, was originally displayed with numerous artifacts and sculptures, including stone walls, trees and fences. It was quite the spectacle as I made my way around the circular room and inspected the magnificent painting as the light changed and each section seemed to take on a life of its own.
Once I had made my way back to the lower level, I quickly stopped at the Information Counter, received a map and some helpful advice on how best to tackle the vast expanses of the battlefield.
Finally in my car, I took a quick glance at the directions, turned on my Auto Tour and headed out to the first part of the battlefield in the northern part of the city, that of McPherson Ridge, where the Battle of Gettysburg began. Though I have visited many battlefields in Virginia, I wasn’t sure what differentiated Gettysburg from these combat zones. For starters, as I turned onto Reynolds Avenue, I discovered what it was…monuments, memorials, markers and plaques that commemorate and memorialize the men who fought and died during this important battle. Including the state monuments, this constitutes one of the largest collections of outdoor sculpture in the world.
Wanting to experience it all, I initially stopped at every monument, memorial, marker and plaque. An hour into my journey, however, I learned that if I wanted to finish the entire drive, I would have to step it up.
There were many locations that I stopped along the way to get a closer look including the Eternal Light Peace Memorial, the North Carolina, Virginia and Pennsylvania Memorials, General James Longstreet’s Monument, Brigadier General Strong Vincent Memorial, Little Round Top (the site of an unsuccessful assault by Confederate troop against the Union) and the monuments located on this hilltop. I learned that Devil’s Den, located below Little Round Top, with its huge boulders, is a popular place for visitors to stretch their legs and sometimes after dark, scour the areas around for ghosts!
Eternal Light Peace MemorialLittle Round TopLittle Round Top
There were many historical farms, with their buildings still proudly gracing various areas of the battlefield, including the farms of George Weikert, Abraham Trostle, John and Mary Wentz, the Sherfy Family, the Spanglers and the Klingles. I even discovered the home of our 34th president, Dwight D. Eisenhower.
The Home of President Dwight D. Eisenhower
Countless cannons dotted the landscape as well as other items used by the troops, including wagons. There was so much still to see as I neared the National Cemetery and the rain began to fall, dampening my efforts.
Pennsylvania MemorialPennsylvania Memorial
Finally, I made my way to the area that included Spangler’s Spring, which still exhibits its original source of drinking water and Cemetery Hill, the keystone of the Union position at Gettysburg. These were important landmarks where major assaults took place towards the end of the battle.
Such a distinctive and monumental place, the Battlefields of Gettysburg was one of the most informative, yet moving locations that I have ever set foot on. It is quite hard to imagine what partaking in those three days was like; the anticipation, the combat, the aftermath. So much effort was expended. You can still definitely feel the spirit of the souls that fought and perished here.
So, did I see any ghosts?
After a long day driving the entire battlefield, my efforts ended with the arrival of a huge thunderstorm. The lightening strikes eerily sounded like cannon fire and as I glanced out of my hotel window at the darkened skies lighting up intermittently, I decided that if I wanted to see ghosts, it wasn’t going to be on the battlefield that night.
Maybe if I had had a partner to egg me on, I might have considered driving the battlefield under the cover of night.. Or maybe, I would have had the forethought to book a room at the Comfort Suites. These rooms overlooked the Evergreen Cemetery and was adjacent to the Soldier’s National Cemetery. Certainly, they must see their share of paranormal activity just outside the hotel! This leaves me to wonder if they book extra for the rooms with a “view”!
Next time, I definitely know where I am staying!
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Address: 1195 Baltimore Pike, Gettysburg, PA 17325
Hours: Visitor’s Center, April 1-November 30, 0900-1600. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday. December 1-March 31, pending pandemic conditions. Park Grounds and Roads, April 1-October 31, 0600-1000 daily, November 1-March 31, 0600-1900, daily.
Admission: There is no fee to enter the Visitor’s Center. Ticket with timed admission for the film A New Birth of Freedom, Cyclorama Painting and the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War, Adults (ages 13+), $15.00, Seniors (65+), $14.00, Active Duty U.S. Military Personnel, free, AAA Discount, $14.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $10.00, Children (ages 5 and under), free. For access to the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War only, Adults, (ages 13+), $9.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $7.00
Battlefield Tours: By car with licensed tour guide, 1-6 people per vehicle, $75.00, 7-15 people per vehicle, $100.00, 16+ people per vehicle, $150.00. By bus with licensed tour guide, Adults (age 13+), $35.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $21.00, Children (5 and under), free
Summer is my season and I love all the fun things that come with it, like going to the beach. Growing up in Louisiana, we were not far from the sunny, Emerald Coast of Florida with its clear, blue waters. Many vacations were spent traveling the short six hours and getting that Panama Jack tan all in a week’s time!
As I have grown older, however, lying on a beach for a solid week doesn’t cut it for me anymore, especially when I am visiting a new location. The travel bug, that resides in me, itches to go out and explore what makes that particular location…well, particular.
This year, since COVID 19 limited our travel options, we decided to make the drive to Florida and let our children experience what we once did in our teens and early twenties.
Having decided to stay in Fort Walton Beach, we were excited to see that the weather forecast was predicting fair skies for most of the week. After the extremely long drive from our home in Virginia, it was fun to wake early the next morning, make our way down to the white sandy beach and plant ourselves under the umbrella for the day!
As much as I loved being back to what felt almost like home, I was getting a bit antsy after only two days, especially when I awakened to darkened skies that morning. Taking the opportunity to run an errand or two, I also decided to head into downtown Fort Walton to explore the Heritage Park and Cultural Center. I had spotted this place on the way to our condominium and was quite curious. I didn’t remember ever seeing it when I was younger, but then, at that time of my life, museums were probably just not that interesting to me.
Taking a spot in the parking lot off of Miracle Strip Parkway, I made my way to the museum which has been in operation since 1962. The current building was opened in 1972 and houses information and exhibits which depict 12,000 years of Native American occupation. Making my way through the modest structure, I inspected the display cases which highlight over 1,000 artifacts of stone, bone, clay and shell, prehistoric ceramics, artifacts from European explorers, local pirates and early settlers and weaving and baskets examples.
My visit to the museum lasted less than an hour and I made my way out of the doors to climb the stairs to the the prehistoric temple mound, one of the highest points on the local landscape. The Indian Temple Mound was built as a ceremonial and political center between 800 and 1400AD by the native inhabitants of the area. Standing twelve feet tall and measuring two-hundred and twenty three feet across its base, it is thought to be one of the largest prehistoric earthworks on the Gulf Coast.
In 1964, the Indian Temple Mound was designated a National Historic Landmark and is listed on the National Historic Register. The original temple sat atop the mound and was used as the residence of the leader, a temple for religious ceremonies and a place to direct the activities of the village. I learned that it was, and still is, a sacred burial ground, leaving me to think that it may not be a place to walk near after dark if you are a believer in ghosts!
After the mound was abandoned, its history was affected by the arrival of Confederate Soldiers during the Civil War and by the excavations executed by the Smithsonian Institute seeking information about the original inhabitants.
Though I could only maintain a fair distance from the temple at the top of the mound, the area surrounding the base was open for inspection.
There are three other museums in the complex; Camp Walton Schoolhouse Museum, Garnier Post Office Museum, and the Civil War Exhibit Building. As I walked to the far end of the property, I learned that due to Covid 19 restrictions in the state, these other buildings were closed to visitors. I was, however, able to inspect the exteriors and take a peek into some of the windows.
The Camp Walton Schoolhouse Museum, of which the exterior was being restored when we visited, was one of the museums on the premises that I would have loved to visit and will certainly return to in the future. It is a historic two-room structure that covers the history of education in the county from 1911 to the 1930’s. Once located on Main Street, this is the third location that the schoolhouse has been set upon. Built of native timber, the school was opened in 1912 with one teacher and fifteen students and all levels of education were taught in the one room institution for fifteen years. In 1927, another room was added for high school students and their teacher. Nine years, later, the students were moved to the New Fort Walton School. The old schoolhouse was purchased and moved to eventually serve as apartments for families during World War II and for years after. The building was left to deteriorate during the 1970’s and scheduled for demolition when the Junior Service League stepped in. Persuading the owners to donate the building, it was preserved and continued to serve in an educational capacity. It was moved to its present location in 2006.
Another museum on the premises is the Garnier Post Office Museum. This museum exhibits items from the early days of the postal service of Walton county from 1918 to 1956.
Originally located on the beach of Garnier’s Bayou, the service was relocated at the junction of Mooney and Garnier Post Roads in 1918. Under the direction of the postmaster, Euphrates A. Mooney until his death in 1935, the operations of the office was then assumed by his wife Julia, who served for twenty-eight years. Just before Mrs. Mooney’s death in 1956, the small post office was closed and thirty years later, the building was moved onto First Street behind the Camp Walton Schoolhouse Museum. After its restoration, the Garnier Post Office Museum was moved with the schoolhouse in 2006.
The final museum is the one that houses Exhibits of the Civil War and was constructed in this location in 2010. There are various items in the gallery that depict life of the Civil War soldiers stationed here during the era, information about the state’s secession, slavery in Florida, prisoners of war and other information about important events that happened during wartime.
Walking back to my car, I realized that the steady drizzle that had plagued my visit had now stopped. As I put my car into drive and headed out to the Miracle Strip Parkway, a ray of sunshine illuminated the bridge to Okaloosa Island. A rainbow hovered over the island and I realized that the end was situated just near our condominium, where I was was returning to!
Even with my love for the sun, which you hope for on a beach vacation, there has to be days of clouds and rain. Years ago, when I was hoping for my deep, dark tan, I would have been frustrated to have a rainy day. Today, it was a blessing…a day to experience the culture of the area. The true pot of gold at the end of that rainbow!
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Address: 139 Miracle Strip Parkway SE, Fort Walton Beach, Florida 32548
Hours: 1000-1500, Tuesday-Saturday *Current hours due to Covid 19 reduction
Admission: $3.00 plus tax, ages 4 and older. *Current admission price due to Covid 19 reduced hours and admittance. Only the Indian Temple Mound and the Indian Temple Mound Museum are open at this time…7/28/2020 thru the publication of this article, 10/6/2020.
