A Wild Time in the Wild, Wild West

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In 1876, outlaws, gamblers and gunslingers like Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane arrived in Deadwood in search of gold and a wild time in the wild, wild west! Coming across a gulch full of dead trees and an abundance of gold, it is where they made their life and where they subsequently met their death.

Today, Deadwood is a place where visitors still flock to make their fortune in the casinos, but also to experience the countless activities and attractions that can be found in this small city.

Deadwood was not on my radar when I arrived in South Dakota. In fact, the only time I had ever really heard the name was as the title of an HBO American Western television series that aired from 2004-2006. When seeking ideas from others on things to do, the usual attractions came up, but so did Deadwood. Doing a quick search, I discovered many exciting things but I knew I would have to be selective as my time would be limited.

Parking at the Visitor’s Center, I ventured inside hoping to get some maps and brochures. Instead, I received some wonderful information from the lady who worked there. The most valuable being that Mount Moriah Cemetery was still open.

Having just driven there a few minutes earlier, I had found the gates closed and assumed that it, along with many other attractions, was closed for the season. Discovering that I could park and enter the side path next to the closed gates, I headed back in that direction.

This final resting place of western legends, murderers, madams and pillars of Deadwood’s early economic development is built on a hill overlooking the city. Walking along the paved paths in the late afternoon light, I quickly found the gravesites of Wild Bill and Calamity Jane. The cemetery is laid out in terraces, on multiple hillsides and is fairly easy to navigate. The most heartbreaking section, however, is toward the rear where there are many small headstones of children who died of the smallpox, scarlet fever and diphtheria epidemics from 1878 to 1880.

Also at the rear of the graveyard is a beautiful bird’s eye view of Deadwood Gulch. The American flag that flies at this point is never lowered to honor all veterans who have served our country. Another section near this area is Potter’s Field where there are many unclaimed and unknown dead. Keep an eye out amongst the trees for the numerous deer that like to hang out in the cemetery.

A visit to the cemetery should take about forty-five minutes to an hour. During the high season when the Mount Moriah Cemetery Visitor Center is open, there is a fifteen minute video and information about the cemetery history, native and introduced plant species, cemetery symbolism and death statistics within Deadwood from 1875 to 1900.

Driving back towards town, I knew that it was nearing the closing hour for many of the museums and shops. I decided to secure parking at the Visitor’s Center and take a walk through the picturesque downtown, a National Historic Landmark.

Starting at the southwest part of Main Street, I made my way northward, meandering past numerous shops, hotels, casinos, restaurants and bars all residing in well preserved Gold Rush-era architecture. My favorite discoveries were the amazing chainsaw art at Dahl’s and in front of the Four Aces Casino where I found the city’s statue of Wild Bill Hickok. After hanging out with Will Bill for a few moments, I wandered back up Main Street, enjoying the ambiance of the twilight and the awakening of the Deadwood night.

The idea of staying into the evening and finding a nice place to enjoy dinner and drinks was extremely appealing, however, with almost an hour’s drive ahead of me, I decided to head home and see what cool nightlife I could find in Rapid City’s downtown.

If you are visiting South Dakota, a trip to Deadwood should warrant more than an afternoon, since there is so much to experience. The Deadwood Brothel, The Broken Boot Gold Mine, The Days of ’76 Museum, Mount Moriah Cemetery, a little bit of gambling and much more…I was short of time, but you shouldn’t be!

My mild time could be your wild time! Make it happen!

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Deadwood Visitor’s Center

  • Address: 1-99 Siever St, Deadwood, SD 57732-1366
  • Hours: Summer, 0800-1900, Winter, 0800-1700. Restrooms and trolley waiting room. Free parking.
  • Admission: free

Mt. Moriah Cemetery

Wild Bill Hickok Memorial Statue

  • Address: 531 Lower Main Street, Deadwood, South Dakota 57732
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Dahls Chainsaw Art

  • Address: 596 Main Street, Deadwood, South Dakota 57732

The Center of the Nation

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About a year and a half ago, my husband and I visited the Center of the World monument while vacationing in Quito, Ecuador. When I heard about the monument for the Geographic Center of the Nation in Belle Fourche, South Dakota, I decided that I needed to plan my travel route around this attraction.

Located in western South Dakota, the monument is accessible year round, but being that I visited on Veteran’s Day, I was disappointed to find that the Visitor’s Center and Tri-State Museum closed.

What was more disappointing, however, was that I learned that this was not actually the geographic center. Kind of like in Ecuador, where a mistake in measurements resulted in the monument not being located on the exact location, the actual center is located on private property. The National Geodetic Survey chose Belle Fourche, the town closest to the actual site and the monument was placed there.

While I learned that I could drive twenty miles north to the actual center’s location (latitude 44 58 02.07622N and longitude 103 46.60283W), marked by a red, white and blue hand lettered sign and a United States flag in a private field, I just didn’t have the time.

Walking behind the Visitor’s Center and Tri-State Museum, I found the 21-foot monument, near the Redwater River, made of etched South Dakota granite and a twelve inch bronze marker from the National Geodetic Survey.

What is interesting to consider, however, is that before the addition of Alaska and Hawaii in 1959, Lebanon, Kansas was the geographic center of the nation. With the inclusion of these two states, a new center had to be determined. Keep in mind, Rugby, North Dakota has the distinction of being the geographic center of North America.

Also on the property is the Buckskin Johnny Cabin, built in 1876, which was constructed by John T. Spaulding with logs felled in the Black Hills. It was donated to the Belle Fourche Lions Club, moved to the city and restored as a historical monument to the early days of the frontiersmen. You can also find a Korean War Memorial, a Vietnam War Memorial, antique farm equipment, military equipment and a trail extending near the river.

While my stopover was short and sweet, it was a good diversion, regardless of the fact that I was led here in error.

Sometimes you win some and you lose some. All in a days adventures!

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Geographic Center of the Nation

The Road Less Traveled

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The interstate is usually the way to travel for efficiency, but sometimes, the most picturesque scenery is on the highways and backroads.

Veteran’s Day is one that is taken very seriously in Wyoming and South Dakota. Though it worked in my favor at Devil’s Tower, gaining me free admission, it also made it a bit difficult to find a place to have lunch. In a area of the state, where there isn’t an abundance of fast food, the best option is to support the local establishments and on this day, some of the few available were closed in observance.

Instead of heading back to the interstate, I decided to head over to the nearby town of Hulett, grab a bite to eat and then take route 24 to Belle Fourche, South Dakota, my next stop.

What a great detour! There’s no other way to put it…Huelett resembles a movie set. If the main street was made of dirt, you would almost expect to see covered wagons and horseback riders passing through and securing their rides to hitching posts. Filled with charm and only 445 residents, it is actually one of the larger towns in the area and where you would hang your hat if you desire to spend the night near Devil’s Tower.

A general store, market, campground, two hotels, museum, art gallery and restaurants are all available here. It’s also a good place to fill up your tank before heading out on the open roads.

After grabbing a quick bite to eat, I began my trek back to South Dakota.

The day was bright and sunny and generally a beautiful, scenic drive. Occasionally, I ran into historic markers detailing past events like Custer’s 1874 Expedition. Over 1,000 men were sent under the direction of General George Armstrong Custer in 1874 to these Black Hills, to scout for a new fort location. The discovery of gold, however, had major impact on the area with miners rushing to harvest the bounty and ultimately helping to open the northeast Wyoming Territory to settlement, with towns like Hulett and others springing up quickly.

Now, if I thought Hulett was a tiny town, Aladdin was even smaller…population 15! Standing at the crossroads of routes 24 and 11 is the Aladdin General Store which dates back to 1896 and was originally called the Wyoming Mercantile. It is now the heart of the community.

About one and a half miles east of the town is the Aladdin Coal Tipple, a historical site which dates back to the late 1800s. The area is fenced off for safety reasons, but placards provide an overview of the coal mining in the area and the purpose of the tipple. There is a small parking area and a path leading up the hill for a different view of the hoist house and the opening of the mine.

Jumping back on route 24, I continued my journey until I reached the South Dakota border once again. Though I had to adhere to a tight schedule due to the shortened winter day, I still had a few stops planned in South Dakota.

Wyoming had not been in my original plans, but I am glad that I was pointed in that direction. There were many areas of geological interest that I had to pass by, due to lack of time, like the Vore Buffalo Jump. Wyoming is home to many dinosaur and paleontology attractions throughout the state such as the Wyoming Dinosaur Center, the University of Wyoming Geological Museum, the Tate Geological Museum at Casper College and the Paleon Museum in Glenrock. And of course, 96 percent of the amazing Yellowstone Park is located in Wyoming. There is a lot to see and do!

Time to make a plan for my return trip!

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Hulett, Wyoming

Aladdin, Wyoming

Close Encounters

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In the 1977 hit motion picture, Close Encounters of the Third Kind, a man’s encounter with a UFO leads him to a landmark mountain where the government is attempting to communicate with extraterrestrials.

I was only ten years old when the movie was released and remember sitting in the theater, half fascinated and half terrified; my youthful naivete leading me to somehow believe that what I was seeing really existed. Of course, we scanned the darkened skies during the evenings, watching for anomalies, but now, there was this weird shaped mountain somewhere, where extraterrestrials were hiding out, waiting to abduct innocent people like me!

The blockbuster movie captivated the masses and paved the way for similar movies and television shows and its innovative special effects initiated what was to come.

While enroute to Rapid City, South Dakota, I decided to engage other travelers in the gatehouse in the Minneapolis airport. Listening to their conversations, it was evident that they had traveled there many times and I was eager to know what attractions they suggested that I visit. Of course, topping the list was Mount Rushmore, the Crazy Horse Memorial and the Badlands, but one caught me off guard.

“Do you remember the movie, Close Encounters of the Third Kind?” I was asked by a man going on a hunting trip. “The mountain tower that was featured in the movie is just across the border in Wyoming, only a couple hours away. It is worth the drive.”

There was no thinking about this. I knew that I was going to move heaven and hell to see this and more importantly photograph it for my mom, a huge fan of the movie.

Setting out early on my second day in South Dakota, it was cold but clear. Merging on to the interstate, I headed west, marveling at how little traffic I encountered, crossing into Wyoming. Turning from the highway at Sundance, I headed north, the anticipation building with each mile.

And there it was!

Pulling over to the side of the road, with it still quite some distance from my location, I snapped photo after photo so that I could send to my mom…the culmination of the hints I had been texting to her as to where I was going.

Earlier in the day, I was concerned about certain locations possibly being closed for Veteran’s Day. Entering the park, however, I learned that it was my good fortune to actually be visiting on this day as admission was complimentary, saving me the twenty-five dollar entry.

Winding my way uphill, I occasionally glimpsed the tower peeking out from behind the trees until I reached the parking area where it loomed over me. After parking my car and taking a quick bathroom break, I headed toward the trail entrance.

Color caught my eye and I began to notice bits of cloth attached to many of the trees along the trail. These are prayer cloths left by practitioners of Native American religions, who believe the tower to be sacred.

I was only there to moderately hike, but after passing a sign informing climbers to register, I assumed that climbers scale the tower’s soaring, smooth walls. I later learned, however, that climbers are asked by the National Park Service to not climb in June, during the summer solstice, a sacred time. Native Americans, however, ask that the tower not be climbed at any time.

I followed the Tower Trail, passing the boulder field on a paved 1.3 mile walk around the base of the Tower. It was a lovely day with bright blue skies as a backdrop for the monolith reaching up to it. The hike was relatively easy, with views of the nearby valleys and of course every part of the tower. Signage along the path informed about the tower’s geologic history, the surrounding lands and the people who live there, the fire ecology and the nature that dwells on the tower’s lands.

Of course, the landscape looked nothing like the movie’s. There definitely was not an area with a huge mothership blasting five tuba notes in communication with mankind! However, I was glad that I had decided to cut into my tight schedule to enjoy the great outdoors and take this excursion.

Once my hike was complete, I drove back down the mountain to the base of Joyner’s Ridge Trail where stunning views of the tower are abundant. Deciding not to take another hike as I had so much more to see on my return to South Dakota, I headed toward the front of the park. Here, I encountered Prairie Dog town. Everywhere, I looked, I could see small heads popping out of the ground and little bodies running back and forth. Such a fascinating place, I stayed for longer than I had planned watching these amazing animals.

Passing through the front gates, I made a pit stop at the gift shop. Asking for advice for a nearby lunch stop, the nice saleslady directed me to the town of Hulett. With one more glance at the Tower that had sometimes haunted my earlier years, I set off to see what other close encounters I could find in Wyoming and South Dakota.

Believe me, there are many!

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Devil’s Tower

  • https://www.nps.gov/deto/index.htm
  • Address: Devil’s Tower, Wyoming 59602, United States
  • Hours: Open 24 hours. Visitor Center is currently closed.
  • Admission: $25 per vehicle (1-7 day pass), $20 per motorcycle (1-7 pass), $15 Individual on foot or bicycle (1-7 day pass), $25, Commercial Tours (1-6 people), $40, Commercial Tours (7-25 people), $100, Commercial Tours (26 or more people). Fee free days, January 18, April 17, August 4, August 25, September 25 and November 11.

Crazy For Crazy Horse

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Imagining sites that I wanted to experience in South Dakota, it was a given what might top the list (hint…four president’s).

Honestly, I have to admit that I didn’t know much more about other attractions within the state. It was a dream of mine to see those four presidential heads lined up on a rockface in the Black Hills, but anything else I encountered was lagniappe. Those I had spoken to insisted that I not to miss the Crazy Horse memorial, but aside from thinking it was a statue, I didn’t know very much about it or its history.

Upon my departure from Mount Rushmore, I followed my GPS in the direction of Crazy Horse’s address, admiring the stunning natural beauty along the way. A short, 16 miles later, I was pulling onto the premises.

Now, where was this statue?

Was I in for a surprise! Heading inside the welcome center and museum, I learned something, that many of you might laugh at, because I didn’t already know.

Crazy Horse wasn’t merely a statue, but in fact, a massive sculpture being carved from a nearby mountain. Under construction since 1948, the mountain monument, much like Mount Rushmore, will depict Oglala Lakota warrior, Crazy Horse, riding a horse and pointing to his tribal land.

Looking out to Thunderhead Mountain from the viewing deck, I was a bit baffled. I could see that the top part of the mountain was resembling a man looking to the west, but that was about it.

Watching the film offering, I learned that the memorial was being constructed on sacred Lakota land and was commissioned by Henry Standing Bear, a Oglala Lakota chief. Sculpturer Korczak Ziolkowski, a friend of Henry Standing Bear, was chosen to carry out the Lakota’s monumental plans and he and his descendants have worked tirelessly over the years to see it to the finish.

But who was Crazy Horse?

A war leader of the Oglala Lakota, Crazy Horse took on the fight against the United States federal government to stop the encroachments on the territories and way of life of the Lakota people. After surrendering in May 1877, he was fatally wounded while imprisoned at Camp Robinson, Nebraska.

In the 1940s, the world saw the completion of Mount Rushmore in the Black Hills. Henry Standing Bear had learned that a monument to his cousin, Crazy Horse, was being planned for construction in Fort Robinson, Nebraska. Standing Bear, persuaded James Cook, spearheader of the project, to abandon plans so that a monument of spiritual significance to the Lakota people could be constructed on Lakota land and one which would honor his relative.

After acquiescing to Henry Standing Bear’s persuasion to undertake the massive project, Ziolkowski, formulated a plan to create a monument that captured Crazy Horse’s likeness, which depicts the Native American riding his horse, left hand gesturing forward, showing the lands of his ancestors. Today, you can see the completed face and a long smooth piece of granite stretching out before him. There is some etching on the rock walls resembling a horse, however, it was quite difficult to envision what is to come.

I did not have to go far to find the answer. Near where I was standing on the deck, there was a sculpture’s model. As I studied this representation, it was much easier to comprehend the plan. The large scale sculpture on the mountain is planned to be 641 feet long and 563 feet high. The arm of Crazy Horse will be 263 feet long and the head 87 feet high. An impressive feat, it will be the second largest statue in the world behind the Statue of Unity in India.

What still confounded me, however, was that it only took fourteen years to complete Mount Rushmore. After seventy-three years, there was still a great deal to complete here. As I took the shuttle bus tour to the base of the mountain, I learned that no federal money has been accepted from the government. All construction is operated by the Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation, a nonprofit organization, and paid for with funds earned from the Welcome Center and museum and from private donations. The current plan is that in ten years, the arm of Crazy Horse will be complete.

Thinking ahead, I sadly realized that the culmination of this stunning monument will probably not be in my lifetime.

Returning to the Welcome Center, I made my way through its entirety, enjoying each of the museums offered under its roof.

The Indian Museum of North America, created by Korczak Ziolkowski and his wife, Ruth, was constructed to feature American Indian art and artifacts from tribal Nations across North American. The museum itself is an architectural delight, large and airy and built from ponderosa pine, harvested and milled at the Crazy Horse memorial site. Its interior is filled with carvings, paintings, clothing items, canoes, tools, artwork and teepees.

The Mountain Carving Gallery is a tribute to the story of the mountain. Here you can see tools that Korczak used when he began the project, including a half size replica of a wooden basked used with an aerial cable car run by an antique Chevy engine that enabled him to haul equipment and tools up the mountain. It is here that you can also learn more about the phases of carving each of the components of the sculpture. Take heed of the cart in the far corner. Small chunks of granite, gathered and removed from the mountain after blasting, are available for visitors for a small donation. An amazing piece of history that can be passed on to your children and grandchildren!

Another museum, depicts Korczak’s home and studio. After living in a tent for his first seven months, he constructed a log cabin and studio home, so well-built that it still remains part of the Visitor’s Center. His home was filled with antiques and original works of sculpture and these are on display today, including a Marie Antoinette mirror, Louis XVI chairs and carvings of those he admired.

A variety of items are on display in Korczak’s workshop, including wood, bronze, marble and casts. Of particular interest is his wooden toolbox made when he was 18 years old and a full-sized, original Concord Stagecoach, restored by him and his family.

Though the Native American Educational and Cultural Center was not open, I was able to take a peek inside through its glass doors. Hands-on activities and instructions in American Indian history and culture are provided here and it serves as an outlet for artists to sell their work during the busier months of the year. A collection of Edward Curtis photogravure prints of the American West and the Native American peoples are displayed on the lower level as well as an Exhibit of the American Bison, detailing its story from its prehistoric origins in North America to its near extinction.

If taking home a distinctive reminder of your visit is important, do not forget the treasure-filled gift shop with skillfully crafted mementos lining its walls and filling its showcases.

Thankfully, I had arrived with enough time to see all of the museums and the entire premises. Having expected “just a statue” I discovered so much more and walked away with a much greater appreciation for what has been and is being accomplished. Though I will probably never get to see Crazy Horse’s completion before I move on, eventually, through the tireless efforts of the Ziolkowski family, one day, it will stand tall and proud, high above Lakota land…a symbol of courage and heritage.

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Crazy Horse Memorial

  • https://crazyhorsememorial.org/
  • Address: 2151 Avenue of the Chiefs, Crazy Horse, South Dakota 57730
  • Hours: Welcome Center and The Museums of the Memorial, January 4-March 16, 0900-1700, daily. March 17-May 11, 0800-1900. May 12-May 27, 0800-2000. May 28-September 6, 0800- 30 minutes after laser light show. September 7-October 3, 0800-2000. October 4-October 11. 0800-1800.
  • Hours: Bus to Base – A closer look of the Mountain from the base, January 4-March 16, 1000-1600. March 17-May 11, 0900-1800. May 12-May 27, 0900-1900. May 28-September 6, 8:30 am – the last boarding 1.5 hours before the Laser Light Show begins. September 7-October 3, 0900-1900. October 4-October 11. 0900-1700.
  • Admission: January 1-May 27, $30.00, 3 or more people in a vehicle. $24.00, 2 people in a vehicle. $12.00, 1 person in a vehicle. $7.00, per person on a motorcycle, bicycle or walking. May 28-October 11, $35.00, 3 or more people in a vehicle. $30.00, 2 people in a vehicle. $15.00, 1 person in a vehicle. $10.00, per person on a motorcycle, bicycle or walking. No parking fees.

Heads Up

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The length of my bucket list sometimes keeps me up at night.

How will I ever complete everything?

Since many things will have to remain unchecked at least for now, due to Covid19, I am trying to enjoy some of the things that are close at hand. Maybe some things, by necessity, have suddenly appeared on my list, but some of them have always been there!

When I say close at hand, it is understandable that not being able to travel outside the country has forced us to take a closer look at the amazing places that are within our boundaries. Since I can’t go gorilla trekking in Uganda right now, I can certainly travel within the United States and mark off a few things, like Mount Rushmore.

Unbelievably, I don’t ever remember having been to South Dakota. Maybe I spent a short night while on one of my trips for work, but not enough time to see anything that this beautiful state has to offer.

Pondering my bucket list situation one night, I packed a bag and decided that I would leave for Mount Rushmore in the morning. It was now…or now (I didn’t want to say never)…and I really needed to get out of the house!

As luck would have it, it was a good travel day and I made all three of my flights, arriving in Rapid City around eleven. My rental car took me to my downtown hotel, where I dropped my bags and quickly freshened up. With sunset so early in the winter day, I knew that it was imperative to make the most of the daylight. Thankfully, Mount Rushmore is only a short drive from the downtown area and I made the trip in a quick twenty-five minutes.

As I navigated the winding road, aware that I was getting close, I looked up ahead at a passing truck and there it was! I had not been prepared to see this amazing landmark from the highway and I had to slow my speed and pull over to take a better look. It was mesmerizing!

While most people opt to visit Mount Rushmore during the warmer summer months, I realized as I pulled into a mostly empty parking garage that visiting during the winter has its advantages.

And disadvantages.

Improvements to the property certainly cannot be done during the busy times of the year, so as I made my way down the Avenue of the Flags, which display flags of all fifty states, the District of Columbia and the three territories, Guam, American Samoa and Virgin Islands, I had to maneuver around construction equipment, detours and closed off areas. As I arrived on the Grand View Terrace, I finally laid my eyes on the colossal sculpture, sans the massive crowds that flock here during the summer…another advantage of my November visit.

Looking down at the unoccupied amphitheater seating, it dawned on me how many people I could actually be sharing this space with. Yes, it was cold, but there was no one to my left and no one to my right…perfect for social distancing.

As luck would have it, the weather, which could be volatile at this time of year was cooperating. Although a few clouds dipped low, occasionally obscuring the upper portions of the the carvings, blue skies prevailed and we were all treated with beautiful views.

After feasting my eyes, I headed inside the Visitor’s Center to warm up and learn about the famous carvings’ history, much of which I did not know.

Mount Rushmore was the brainchild of Gutzon Borglum. With an idea of carving the four Presidents, Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln, from the waist up, construction began in 1927 and took fourteen years to complete. When funding ran out, only the heads were completed. The Presidents represent the nation’s birth, development, growth and preservation. There are many exhibits in the Visitor’s Center explaining their construction as well as a short film.

Although I saw the entrance to the Presidential Trail, which gives hikers a closer look, I was not quite sure of how much time it would entail. With my plans including continuing on to the Crazy Horse Memorial, a short drive away, I decided to skip this portion of the grounds.

Jumping back into my now freezing car, I cranked up the heat and headed out to Highway 244. Not long into my journey, I learned that I wasn’t quite done with my visit to Mount Rushmore. From the roadway, behind the park, there is a great view of the profile of George Washington’s 60 foot head, 20 foot nose and 18 foot wide mouth. Pull over to the side of the road or in the adjacent parking lot and keep an eye out for the many mountain goats that hang out in the area.

This was the icing on the cake!

Twenty four hours earlier, I had not planned to be here and now I was gazing up at the profile of our nation’s first president.

With my head held high, I gave myself a personal pat on the back for making this happen. I then placed a mental check on my bucket list while looking up at this important piece of our nation’s history.

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Mount Rushmore

  • https://www.nps.gov/moru/index.htm
  • Address: 13000 Highway 244, Building 31, Suite 1, Keystone, SD 57751
  • Hours: October 1 through March 13, 0500-2100, March 14 through September 30, 0500-2300.
  • Admission: free admission
  • Parking: Cars, Motorcycles and RVs, $10.00 per vehicle. Seniors (ages 62+), $5.00 per vehicle. Free for Active Duty Military.

A Gift To the City

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Having been away from work for a while, due to the Covid restrictions, I was desperately craving different scenery. As a flight attendant, I am used to spending my weekends in some far away city, dining in the piazzas, walking the streets and soaking up the culture.

Deciding to tackle some local attractions, I headed over to Maymont park to walk around for some sunshine, fresh air and exercise. While I had visited this park on many occasions in the past, I had forgotten how some parts could transport me to other locales.

One of Richmond’s and the state’s greatest treasures, the 100 acre park was the home of millionaires James and Sallie Dooley at the turn of the century. The couple lived on this land from 1893 until 1925 in their Romanesque mansion, surrounded by magnificent gardens and landscapes.

My fascination with James and Sallie Dooley, began during the first time that I visited their mansion many years ago. Why? My maiden name is Dooley and as I walked around their beautiful home, it was fun to imagine that they were distant relatives of mine and I was visiting their homestead. This time around, I was able to walk around the exterior of their mansion, but unfortunately it was not open to visitors. The periphery, however, is worthy of inspection, especially for architecture buffs like me! It is a stunning structure and surrounded by some beautiful sculptural pieces, the family mausoleum and the Dooley garage and stable, which features antique buggies and carriages.

Mausoleum
Dooley Garage and Stable

Heading down the hill, past the fountain court and stone barn, I began to feel as if I had departed my home country and landed in Italy. Though the Dooleys had commissioned English pastoral gardens around their home, this part of their estate, was more formal, featuring stonework, statuary, gazebos, fountains and beautiful flowers, shrubs and trees. This classical style, developed in the 15th and 16th century can be spotted throughout Italy and more specifically at Villa Torlonia, near Rome.

Fountain Court
Stone Barn

A long pergola stretches along the northern edge of the garden and the garden is laid out in many levels below. At this point, the Dooleys could even spy the mighty James River out in the distance when it was first constructed. From this overlook stretches a stunning cascading fountain which feeds into a waterfall. There is a beautiful classical gazebo, imported from Italy, and I was told that it is quite lovely in the spring when surrounded by the blossoming peonies.

Making my way down the steps of the cascading fountain, I was disappointed to find that it was not in operation, but at the end, I was excited to glance upward at its magnificence and further down the path, find the entrance to the Japanese gardens.

The Japanese gardens have always been my favorite and the site of many picnics with my children during their younger days. When I am there, I truly feel as though I am in Japan.

Its nice to take a stroll on the gravel paths around the pond and admire the statuary, grotto and Japanese structures that rest near or over the water. I still fondly remember my boys jumping from stone to stone on the pathway across the pond and running across the wooden bridge near the base of the waterfall.

Exiting the gardens, I headed toward the part of the park where the wild animals are housed. Sometimes the black bear is not visible, but on this day, he was pacing back and forth along the wall and I was able to see him quite well. The Raptors and Bobcat exhibits were closed off due to spacing requirements so I continued along the path toward the Children’s Farm.

The horses and cows were grazing in the pastures and the vegetable garden was in full bloom. The sheep were out in their yard and I remembered how much my children loved to go to the petting zoo. The bison, my personal favorites, however, were nowhere to be seen within their enclosure.

The Robins Nature Center was not open on the day that I was here, but I thought back to the field trips in which we visited this facility. There are many interesting exhibits which highlight animals of the James River and Chesapeake Bay. One of the featured favorites are the otters, which reside in their own beaver lodge. The 30,000 gallon aquariums showcase a great number of aquatic animals which reside in the waters of the state. Over 45,000 guests visit the center annually, including tens of thousands of local students.

Robins Nature Center

As I made my way, full circle, back to my starting point, I relished the beauty around me…small creeks, large trees and rolling hills. It must have been a spectacular place for the Dooleys to call home and truly a special gift for them to bequeath to the city of Richmond.

Though the admission price is only suggested and visitors can enter the park freely, remember the generosity of the Dooleys and give back to the city to help maintain what the Dooleys gave to the city.

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Maymont

  • https://maymont.org/
  • Address: 1700 Hampton St, Richmond, VA 23220
  • Hours: Grounds and Gardens, April to September, 1000-1900, October to March, 1000-1700. Farm and Wildlife habitat, 1000-1700. The Robins Nature Center, Saturday-Sunday, 1000-1700. Carriage Collection, Tuesday-Sunday, 1200-1700. Maymont Mansion, temporarily closed.
  • Admission: Suggested admission, $5.00. Robins Nature Center, $8.00 (ages 13-64), $6 (ages 3-12), free (under 2 years).

Virginia Is For Nature Lovers

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

With thirty-eight state parks and nineteen national park service sites, Virginia is the place to be if you want to see the great outdoors! From coastal regions on the east and mountains on the west, there is something for everyone.

A popular slogan advertises that Virginia Is For Lovers and while that may be true, with all of these outdoor opportunities, I really think that Virginia Is For Nature Lovers!

During the cooler Fall months, I love to head to the mountains for a little camping and hiking. The Blue Ridge mountains are one of my favorite places with numerous campsites and over forty-nine marked trails with skill levels from easy to strenuous, including the renowned Appalachian Trail stretching from Georgia to Maine.

Sitting around on a beautiful Sunday morning, I realized that the outdoors was beckoning. Requesting recommendations from my son, an avid hiker, gave me the trail name, Humpback Rocks.

Hopping on the highway, we enjoyed the light traffic and sunny weather as we drove from Richmond past Charlottesville. Finally exiting, we drove along the Blue Ridge Parkway toward the Visitor’s Center parking lot. Many people park in the lot at the trailhead or along the road near that lot, however, even though the Visitor Center and its museum exhibits about mountain life were closed, I wanted to walk through the historic farm which lies between the Visitor Center and the trailheads.

Visitor’s Center

A wide, gravel trail took us amidst some log cabin structures, including a house, storage shed/barn and wellhouse. These were not open to visitors, however, you could see into the shed/barn if you are interested in its construction. The trail is only a quarter mile and reminiscent of an 1890’s mountain farm. During the summer months you can find costumed guides giving demonstrations on the way of Appalachian mountain life at the turn of the 20th century.

Cabin
Storage Shed/Barn
Secondary Structure
Wellhouse

Crossing the road, we followed others to the second parking lot where the trailheads began. Noticing two trails, we had to first make a phone call to my son to see which one was correct. Well…they both were. One would take us the long way around, on the Humpback Rocks Loop and the other to Humpback Rocks, more strenuous but only a short one-mile.

Don’t let that one-mile fool you.

The majority of the hike was uphill on the blue-blazed trail. Since having had given up my gym membership during the past few months, I found myself a little slow and breathing heavy, so we opted to take it in small sections, resting after each. The second half of the hike was the hardest with a 700-foot climb, zig-zagging back and forth, climbing over slippery rocks, large tree roots and muddy areas. As difficult as it was, we plodded on until finally, we heard many voices and reached a rocky area. Joining these other climbers onto Humpback Rocks, we were rewarded with spectacular views of the Rockfish and Shenandoah Valleys.

Grabbing a seat on an interior flattened area we enjoyed our water and snacks while basking in the beauty below and the warmth of the afternoon’s favorable temperatures. I must admit, however, being up that high was a bit disconcerting and as tempting as it was to get near the edge for that Instagram-worthy selfie, we both kept our distance.

Finally, we decided that our shaky legs had recovered enough to make the trip back down, which was considerably a bit easier. We decided that rewards were due for all of this effort!

Checking the internet, we discovered that there were many local breweries a short drive away. Now this was my idea of a good day…exercise followed by a good craft beer!

Settling on Blue Mountain Brewery, we arrived to find the extensive outdoor seating almost to capacity. Grabbing a spot at one of the umbrella-covered picnic tables, we quickly scanned the beer menu to find a thirst-quenching selection. Having a hard time making a decision, I decided on eight!

Okay, so it was eight tiny beers…a flight…but it gave me an incredible overview of the offerings at this particular brewery. Resting our weary legs, we were reveling in the picturesque scenery around us and enjoying our libations so much that we decided to stay and have dinner.

Though we didn’t have this plan when we first awakened during that morning, I’m glad that we decided to make the drive and give it ago. It was worth every step and every drop!

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Humpback Rocks and Blue Ridge Parkway Trails

Blue Mountain Brewery

At Marye’s Heights

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

More than 100,000 casualties occurred within a twenty mile radius of Fredericksburg during Civil War battles. As a result, more than 15,000 Union soldiers found their final resting place in the Fredericksburg National Cemetery.

After four major battles, Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville, Wilderness, and Spotsylvania Court House, the remains of deceased Union and Confederate soldiers were buried in shallow, often unmarked graves around the battlefields. It was deemed necessary that a national cemetery at Fredericksburg be established to provide a proper burial site for these soldiers.

The Fredericksburg National Cemetery, part of the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania Country Battlefields Memorial National Military Park is located southwest of the city’s historic downtown in Marye’s Heights, a Confederate stronghold during the Battle of Fredericksburg. It was constructed in 1866 and is one of fourteen national cemeteries managed by the National Park Service.

Parking near the Visitor’s Center at the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park, we found it to be closed and its exterior and surroundings under construction. Thinking that we would take a walk on the trail that lead from this location, we ducked into the Museum Shop to obtain a map. Finding the trail to be extensive and because it was the end of the day, we decided to take a walk through the cemetery instead.

Following the natural contour of the landscape, we walked uphill, noting some of the monuments dedicated to Union soldiers and officers such as the Fifth Corps Monument, which honors the service of the corps and the Monument to Colonel Joseph Moesch, commemorating the officer who was killed while leading his regiment of 83rd New York Volunteers in the Battle of Wilderness. In the center of the cemetery, we found the Humphrey’s Division Monument, surrounded by upright cannons. This monument honors the men under General Humphrey that led an unsuccessful attack on Confederate troops holding Marye’s Heights. Over 1,000 soldiers were killed or wounded in this engagement.

Fifth Corps Monument
Monument to Colonel Joseph Moesch
Monument to the 127th Regiment of the Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry
Humphrey’s Division Monument
Humphrey’s Division Monument

Other small markers were scattered throughout the cemetery. Though bearing no names, they offered a longer number followed by another smaller number. While over 15,000 soldiers are interred here, only 2,473 were identified and these are the graves of the unknown. The upper number identifies the plot, while the second number identifies the number of soldiers buried in that plot. The soldiers that were identified are buried in individual graves, marked with a rounded headstone bearing the soldier’s name and state.

The cemetery is also the final resting place for an additional three hundred veterans of the Spanish-American War, World War I and World War II.

Though no music can be heard during our visit, the beat of a poem surrounded us. Near the 127th Pennsylvania Volunteer Monument, and throughout the cemetery, we noticed plaques containing verses from Theordore O’Hara’s, “The Bivouac of the Dead” (1847), which commemorated the American dead at the Battle of Buena Vista, from the Mexican-American War.

The muffled drum’s sad roll has beat
The soldier’s last Tattoo;
No more on life’s parade shall meet
That brave and fallen few.
On fame’s eternal camping ground
Their silent tents to spread,
And glory guards, with solemn round
The bivouac of the dead.
No rumor of the foe’s advance
Now swells upon the wind;
Nor troubled thought at midnight haunts
Of loved ones left behind;
No vision of the morrow’s strife
The warrior’s dreams alarms;
No braying horn or screaming fife
At dawn shall call to arms.
Rest on, embalmed and sainted dead,
Dear as the blood ye gave,
No impious footstep here shall tread
The herbage of your grave.


A powerful testament to those who gave their lives during these tumultuous times.

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Fredericksburg National Cemetery
https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/national_cemeteries/virginia/Fredericksburg_National_Cemetery.html
Address: 1013 Lafayette Boulevard, Fredericksburg, Virginia 22401
Hours: Dawn to dusk
Admission: free

 

Growing Up George

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Most Americans know that our nation’s first President was George Washington and that his residence, Mount Vernon, is located south of Washington D.C., on the banks of the Potomac River.

Having visited Mount Vernon with my children on various school field trips, I was intrigued with the how beautiful the estate and its grounds were and although I was aware that this was Washington’s home, I never thought about how long he lived there. Although he and his wife Martha made it their home until his death, I guess I always assumed that he also grew up there.

Recently, when visiting Fredericksburg, I found myself on Kings Highway. Noticing a historical sign directing visitors to George Washington’s boyhood home, I initially dismissed it assuming it was Mount Vernon. When I happened to see another sign directing me to the entrance, I realized that I was not near Mount Vernon and this was something entirely different.

This was Ferry Farm.

Located on the banks of the Rappahannock River, Ferry Farm, as it was later named, was George Washington’s home from the age of six years until his twenties. The Washington family purchased the farm in 1738 and it was here where George Washington spent his formative years and the place where most people believe he chopped down the infamous cherry tree.

Visitor’s Center

Purchasing a ticket, I walked in the garden for a few minutes before heading out to the area where the replica of the home stands. During my tour, learned that in 1740, the Washington family home was destroyed by fire, however, during excavations in 2008, archaeologists uncovered remains that led them to realize that this was the location of the family home. In 2015, the George Washington Foundation began constructing a replica on the site of the original building and it was opened to the public in 2018.

Path from Visitor’s Center to House
Surveyor’s Shed

Though no one knows what the farm was called during the years that the Washington family occupied the home, it later came to be known as Ferry Farm, because of the free ferry (not owned by the family) that crossed the river on the family’s land.

Replica of the Washington family home

After an introduction by the tour guide, we were led through the home which was built using eighteenth century building techniques. The tour which took us through the first floor, introduced us to reproductions of the furniture and objects listed in George’s father, Augustine Washington’s, probate inventory when he died in 1743. Unlike many other historical tours, because these are all reproductions, we were encouraged to interact with the objects while being regaled with stories about the family’s life.

Once the tour was complete, I ventured outside and down to the river to where the ferry once departed the banks of the river to make its crossing. From here, the view of the home sitting on the hill, was breathtaking and you could almost imagine a young George and his siblings running down the steep slope or sledding down during the winter!

Making my way back up the stairs, I spotted a tent, situated not far from the house. Archaeologists were excavating another site on the property and I was told that there have been prehistoric artifacts such as spear points, stone axes and numerous other tools tied to the American Indians that once made their home on the land found here. During the Civil War in 1862, the areas near the farm were the site of skirmishes between Confederate and Union armies. The farm was used by Union soldiers as a campground and although much of the farm was destroyed, a surveyor’s shed was constructed and is one on the only remaining structures from this time frame that can be seen today. In addition, archaeologists have found many items from the Civil War occupation that can be seen in the museum at the front of the property such as bullets, ink bottles, button and medallions from uniforms. Other interesting artifacts that can be inspected are 18th century wig hair curlers. The Georgian-style inspired museum and archaeological lab also houses the ticket office/visitor’s center and was not open for visitation.

Since Ferry Farm has only been open since 2018 and a new historical attraction, I do think that it is worth returning at a later date. A new visitor’s center is in the works and every year, visitors come for the celebration of Washington’s birthday. While everyone knows the cherry tree story, which is believed to have happened here, it is also claimed to be the site where George Washington skipped a silver dollar across the Rappahannock River. The river was wider then than it is today, making it a much harder feat, but all who attend are invited to recreate this event.

Wonder if there will be any tree chopping competitions too?

George Washington not only led an interesting adult life, but an interesting younger one as well.

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Ferry Farm

  • https://kenmore.org/visit-ferry-farm/
  • Address: 268 Kings Highway, Fredericksburg, Virginia 22405
  • Hours: March to October, Monday to Saturday, 1000-1700, Sunday, 1200-1700, November and February, Monday to Saturday, 1000-1600, Sunday, 1200-1600
  • Admission: Adults, $1200, Students (ages 6 and up), $6.00, Children (ages 5 and under), free