The canal water was still, from the lack of boat traffic, as I stood along the banks of Bruges canals. I realized how much it reminded me of Amsterdam and a little of Venice. In fact, Bruges shares the title of “Venice of the North” with its neighbor, Amsterdam.
The city, which originated on the banks of the river Reie, can trace its origins back to the days of the Vikings. Officially becoming a city in 1128, the city’s medieval center, lined with historic buildings, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and attracts thousands of tourists each year.
While many of its main attractions are located in the city center, it is highly recommended to take a boat ride or stroll along the canals which were once part of Bruges’ old ramparts and city walls. From this starting point, you can venture into many of the city’s neighborhoods and less beaten paths.
Because our visit to Bruges was in January, the canal tour boats were parked for the winter season, lending to the serenity of the quieter streets of Bruges. For those who want to stroll along the canals, you can start and Zand Square and finish at the Bonifacius bridge near the Church of Our Lady, which takes you past some of the most romantic bridges of the city.
Since our time in Bruges was limited and the boats were not running, it was up to our feet to carry us throughout the city. We opted not take this particular canal walk, instead strolling along the canals when our route around the city put us there. Electing to take the quieter streets, we reveled in the beautiful styles and decoration of the homes, churches and businesses.
We encountered artwork both on the streets and in windows and there was always beer and chocolate!
Though you can take a tour with a qualified guide, you can also bike throughout the city, take a City Tour in a mini bus or even take a horse-drawn carriage. Whatever you choose, be it guided or on your own time, you will not be disappointed.
Bruges is one city that you will never forget!
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Address: Boats can be boarded at one of the five landings, Michielssens and Huidenvettersplein, Coudenys and Rozenhoedkaai, De Meulemeester and Wollestraat, Gruuthuse and Nieuwstraat, Stael and Katelijnestraat
Hours: 1000-1800, daily
Admission: Adults, €10,00, Children (ages 4-11), €6,00, (ages 3 and under), free, Bruges residents, €9,00
He just doesn’t like visiting them as a tourist. In fact, he feels like it’s an intrusion and a bit disrespectful.
Good Catholic guilt.
On the other hand, there is me. Raised as a Catholic and no stranger to my own religion’s institutions, there is a great admiration for architectural elements, decorative features and their history of all churches. As I walk through and examine each interior, I always think of others. Everyone should see this! I guess my love for spreading how remarkable these temples are, outweighs my Catholic guilt. Imagining that my blog posts and pictures might inspire one person to venture into a church out of curiosity, might inspire them to stay…for good…no matter the religion.
While in Bruges, there were many churches that I would have loved to investigate. I knew that getting my husband to see one church during our short visit was probable. Two…slim. Three…not going to happen, especially when there was so many other things to see.
Having already visited the Basilica of the Holy Blood, I stared wistfully at each church that we passed, wondering what lay inside. As we made our way through the main square, in the waning light, we stopped inside a few chocolaterias, searching for decadent souvenirs.
As we headed in the direction of the train station, I spied the tower of Saint Salvator Cathedral (Sint-Salvatorskathedraal) ahead on the right. Realizing that it was the end of the day, I consoled myself with the knowledge that it was probably already closed.
Surprisingly, as I stopped to take a picture of the exterior, my husband suggested that we see if it was still open…
It was!
Saint Salvator’s, the main church of the city, was originally built during the 10th century as a parish church in the shadow of St. Donatian’s Cathedral. St. Donatian’s was located opposite the city hall and was the religious heart of the community, but was destroyed by fire in 1116. A new church was constructed in 1127 and a century later, the lengthy construction of the present church was begun only to be destroyed by the French occupiers of Bruges in the 18th century.
After Belgium obtained its independence in 1830, Saint Salvator was given the status of cathedral and became the main church of the Catholic population. Because of its smaller size, however, renovations were required to elevate it to its higher status and one of the main features is its tall tower dating from the 12th century which outshines the nearby Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk, the Church of Our Lady.
Entering the cathedral, we made our way throughout the ornate interior, noting some of the exquisite furnishings. There are many works of art originally stored in Saint Donatian’s cathedral and original paintings that the wall carpets (that can be viewed at the entrance) were modeled on and originally commissioned for Saint Donatian’s.
Some of its other treasures include its organ which was completed in 1719 and expanded and rebuilt three times in the 20th century. In the choir, the original 16th century podium can be regarded as well as a baroque fence made by Artus Quellinus the Younger.
Inside the cathedral’s south transept, there is the church Treasury which displays jewelry, reliquaries and objects used in religious services, however, in the interest of time, we were unable to visit. Before our exit, however, we did take note in the front of the church, the medieval tombs that were unearthed during renovations during 1989-1993. These 14th century tombs are covered in plexiglass and brightly painted in the style that was typical of Flanders in that period.
Medieval Tombs
As we stepped out into the evening to make our way back to the train station, I glanced back at the soaring tower of the church. With all that we had seen in the city, being able to sneak in a visit to the Cathedral was icing on the cake!
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Hours: Monday-Friday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1730. Saturday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1530. Sunday, 1130-1200 and 1400-1700. January 1, May 21, December 24-25, 1000-1300.
Burg Square in Bruges is certainly on any tourists’ agenda with its spectacularly adorned buildings that circumscribe the plaza. In the 9th century, Burg Square became the base of operations for the Count of Flanders and the buildings were occupied by the courts of law for nearly 200 years. Here, you can still find the 14th century City Hall, the old Court of Justice built in the Renaissance style and the Basilica of the Holy Blood.
City Hall
Palace of Justice
Statue in Burg Square
Did someone say Basilica?
If I had to choose only one church to visit in Bruges, it was definitely going to be this one that features one of the most holy relics…that of Jesus Christ’s blood.
Actually consisting of two churches, dedicated to Our Lady and to Saint Basil, the structure, located in the corner of Burg Square, dates back to the 12th century when it was the chapel of the residence of the Count of Flanders.
As we stood in the square, I was dumbfounded by the resplendent architecture rising boastfully before us. Finally turning our attention to the flamboyant staircase that leads to the upper basilica, we excitedly climbed to the apex and tried the door, anxious to see what lay inside. Frustrated, we found the door to be locked. Searching out the signboard, we discovered that the basilica is closed during the mid-day hours.
Returning later, we once again ascended the steps to the entryway and thankfully, found the door unlocked and we entered the topmost of the two chapels that make up the Basilica.
Decorated in the neo-Gothic style, we discovered it to be dimly lit but exceptionally ornamented. My eyes were first drawn to the beautifully colored stain glass windows and then the altar, which disappointingly, was under renovation, its view consumed by scaffolding. Nevertheless, I thought it to be quite breathtaking. My attention was then drawn to the side chapel where a priest was standing behind an altar. A line had formed at the rear of the church leading to the altar and on it, I realized was the relic of the Holy Blood of Jesus Christ.
This sacred relic is said to be the blood of Jesus Christ on a cloth that was used to wipe his body by Joseph of Arimathea after the Crucifixion. The relic was given to the Count of Flanders, Diederik van de Elzas, by the King of Jerusalem after the Second Crusade. The Count took the relic from the Holy Land to Bruges, arriving on April 7, 1150 and placed it in the chapel. The relic is preserved in a rock crystal vial which is placed in a small glass cylinder capped with a golden crown at each end. The relic is kept in an imposing silver tabernacle with a sculpture of the Lamb of God.
Because we were not sure of the proper protocol, we sat for a few moments and observed the actions of the other visitors. Finally, we stepped up onto the altar, deposited an offering and laid our eyes on the sacred artifact. Our veneration was short and sweet and we walked away with our belief in the validity of the object.
Taking one last look around, we made our way to the Museum which houses the treasury. There are many interesting objects on display that are tied to the history of the chapel or the relic including the Shrine of the Precious Blood, golden statues representing Christ the Savior, The Virgin, St. Donatian and St. Basil and a small silver crown which belonged to Mary of Burgundy. Paintings include the Scenes of the Life of St. Barbara (around 1480) by the Master of the Barbara Legend, The Burial of Christ (1519), a triptych attributed to the Master of the Precious Blood, Christ Bearing the Cross, another triptych, His Being Speared and His Resurrection (16th century) and two panels painted in 1556 by Peter Pourbus entitled the 31 Members of the Noble Brotherhood of the Holy Blood. There are also six medallions carved in oak which represent scenes of Christ’s life, and a large tapestry which dates back to 1637 that depicts the transfer of the relics of St. Augustine from Africa to Sardinia.
Museum/TreasuryMuseum/Treasury
Making our way back down the staircase, we found the second part of the church, the Romanesque Chapel of St. Basil. It was such a contrast, stepping inside this chapel, as it couldn’t be more different than what we had just visited. While the Chapel of the Holy Blood was ornate and blossoming with color, the Chapel of St. Basil was very austere and dark. The only Romanesque church in West Flanders, it dates back to the first half of the 12th century. Established by Derrick, Count of Alsace, it was dedicated to St. Basil the Great and constructed to house his relic brought from Caesarea during the Crusades. This relic, along with the relic of Charles the Good, can be found at the left of the choir in the chapel of Saint Yves. The chapel is small and feels extremely closed in with its low vaulted ceiling and brick archways, but there is something extremely important in the right aisle. A wooden statue of the Madonna and Child dates back to 1306 and is the central focus of the procession along with the relic of the Holy Blood, held each year during on Ascension Day in the city. During the procession, the bishop of Bruges carries the relic of the Holy Blood through the streets, accompanied by the Madonna and Child statue and costumed residents dramatizing biblical scenes. Two additional statues, Jesus on the Cold Stone and the Pieta are also carried in the procession. This cavalcade dates back to 1291 and still follows the route established in 1578 when it was changed due to the religious wars.
St. Basil’sSt. Basil’s
Having seen pictures of the religious procession, it reminded me of the processions I witnessed last year in Guatemala, yet more festive, and I made a mental note to mark my calendar for the next year’s events.
Both chapels contain many treasures, but the sacred relic is truly the treasure of Bruges.
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If spending time outdoors while visiting Bruges is more interesting than fighting other tourists for space in a museum or a crowded bar, there is much to keep you busy.
Spectacular architecture fills the city at every turn but if you are looking for a lovely place to stroll, exercise or even enjoy a picnic, head over to the eastern side of Bruges.
Aware that Belgium has a rich mill history dating back to the 16th century when twenty-three windmills graced the city, I was anxious to set aside some time during our visit to see the four mills that dot the city’s landscape and once produced the flour needed for the daily diet of the urban population.
Heading from the city center, it took us about fifteen minutes to reach the first windmill, located near the Kruispoort gate, which is quite fascinating in itself. The Kruispoort was completed in 1304 and rebuilt a short time later in 1366. It was destroyed in 1382 when Philip van Artevelde captured the city with the Ghent militia. The gate was reconstructed in 1400 with the two heavy towers and a narrow passage being preserved. It should be noted that this was the location where the Scottish soldiers crossed into Bruges during the city’s liberation during World War 2.
The Kruispoort gate is one of four remaining gates to the city. The others, Gentpoort (on the eastern side), Ezelpoort (dating back to 1369) and Smedenpoort (dating back to 1368) are all worth a visit when walking the entire circuit around the city. The Dampoort, probably the most noteworthy due to its massive size (a complex of three interconnected gates), was demolished in 1871, but a part of one of the round towers is still visible.
Ezelpoort, located on Ezelstraat on the crossing of Ezelstraat and the Gulden-Vlieslaan
Gentpoort, located on Gentpoortstraat on the crossing of the Gentpoorstraat, Boninvest and Gentpoortvest
Smedenpoort (The Blacksmith’s Gate), located at the end of Smedenstraat on the crossing of the Smedenstraat and Buiten Boninvest
After walking through the Kruispoort, we began our walk along the ramparts and the canal to examine each of the windmills.
The first we encountered was Bonne Chiere also known as Staakmolen or Post Mill. Originally built in 1844 and then rebuilt at its current location in its same architectural style, this mill was never used for grinding grain. It is not open for visitors, however, you can walk right up to the structure for excellent views.
Sint-Janshuismill was located a short walk away. Built in 1770, this is the only mill standing on its original location and the only one open to the public. The wooden flour mill is still in operation.
A little further, we encountered Nieuwe Papegaai. Originally built in 1790 as an oil mill called the Hoge Seinemolen, this mill was moved to its current location in 1970. Similar to the other mills, this one has one a quirky piece of art perched on its roof…a parrot!
Finally, we reached the fourth and final windmill, Koeleweimolen, also known as the Coelewey Mill which was used for grinding corn. This mill was transported from Meulebeke where it was constructed in 1765.
Although it would have been nice to walk the entire circuit around the city to see the other gates, time was not on our side. It was fascinating, however, to witness some of historical construction outside of the city center and the picturesque scenes along the canal.
Besides, who doesn’t love a windmill?
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With a location near the North Sea, how could you not expect to get the freshest seafood in Bruges?
The Vismarkt, also known as the Fish Market, is centrally located near Burg Square and is the place to purchase the freshest fish and seafood in the city. The current location, dating back to 1821, was erected following the townspeople’s request to move it from Market Square, where the smell was overwhelming. The building was constructed, per Napoleon’s order to the city mayor to modernize public facilities, and still remains in excellent condition.
Though it would have been nice to see the market in action, we visited on a Monday, one of the two days the market is closed. The covered arcade usually bustles with fishmongers hawking their catch and sometimes artists and artisans displaying their creations. If you have to pick a day to visit, however, Friday nights, during summer, offer live concerts and open-air tapas bars with fish based snacks.
For those interested in the history of the city and hoping to get something for dinner, combine it with a walk along the scenic canal and a photo op with the bust of former mayor Frank Van Acker.
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I will admit, I have never seen it, but for some reason, I was always intrigued with the idea of visiting Bruges.
My stays in Belgium have always consisted of a short twenty-four hours in Brussels, leaving me to think that I never had enough time to travel to Bruges, after my oh-so-important nap…after flying all night. When my husband and I decided to take a trip to Brussels for a few days, he was informed that plan number one included a day trip to Bruges.
After an hour’s train ride, we arrived in Bruges and made our way toward the city’s center. I had done a bit of legwork and made a list of some things that would be of interest to both my husband and I.
Having a quick bite (Belgian waffles, of course!), we sat in the cozy little cafe and gaze out into the Market Square, centered with a statue paying tribute to Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck, leaders of the Bruges Matin, an uprising against the French in the 14th. The square is surrounded by beautiful and historic architecture including the Provincial Court building and the majestic Belfort.
The Belfort was where we were going to start our exploration, though knowing that 366 steps to the top was involved…I was a bit apprehensive. But dressed for the occasion in my most comfortable boots, I was ready to see what this historic landmark would offer.
The 13th century Belfort is one of the three historically important towers of Bruges (with the Church of Our Lady and St. Saviour’s Cathedral) and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Standing 83 meters high, the tower formerly housed a treasury, the municipal archives and served as an observation post for spotting fires, invaders and other dangers.
As we entered the former market hall, we climbed the stairs to the second level where the ticket counter is located. After purchasing our tickets, we were required to wait at the turnstile until it was unlocked and let us through…this was after two other people left the tower. One in, one out. It is unimaginable how lengthy the lines must become during the busier summer months!
Beginning our climb, we took it slowly and were happy to have a break when we reached the former Treasury. Here, the privileges, city’s charters, city’s seal and its accounts and funds were stored in this vaulted room from the thirteenth century onward. These precious documents were stored in padlocked chests behind the heavy wrought iron doors.
The belfry was also a meeting location for the town aldermen and was the preferred location for proclamations. These announcements were read from the balcony of the hall tower.
Door to the balcony
Continuing our climb, we headed upward to the next part of the tower which offered an explanation of how time was measured, how this process evolved over time and its importance to the citizens of Bruges. In this medieval city, the sound of the bells ruled the lives of its citizens and were used as a way of organizing their daily routines. Combinations of the pitches of these bells let citizens know exactly what was the time of day and what events were to take place. For example, the work bell was rung for the start of the working day, the noon bell signaled time for a lunch break and the evening bell marked the hour when the city’s gates were closed. The ringing of the bells also marked certain occasions such as a call to battle, the outbreak of fire, proclamations, public executions or the beginning and end of market days. The tower guards, who were responsible for sounding the bells, often passed the time between the hours, practicing their trades. A job often held by cobblers, you can probably imagine many a shoe was created here.
Today, Bruges has a city carillonneur who plays the bells on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays from 1100 to noon. If you are visiting during the summer months, keep your ears pealed for special carillon concerts.
Taking a deep breath, we ascended the stairs to reach the Drum Room which not only displayed some of the ten great bells that have graced the tower since 1280, but the largest, brought over from the Church of Our Lady. This great bell weighs approximately six tons and has a diameter of almost seven feet. The drum is the largest in existence and thought to weigh nine tons. It plays a melody every quarter of the hour and every half hour is marked with a short musical signal. Every two years, the music is changed. The clock, which can be spied from the square below, was made in 1748 and is operated by a three meter long pendulum.
Finally (and breathlessly), we reached the top of the tower in which the bells can be seen hanging from the rafters. This is the spot which you really appreciate the three hundred sixty-six steps that you just climbed! Unparalleled views of the city are like no other.
Heading back down was much easier than than the climb to the top, however, it was took a bit of maneuvering when encountering those heading upwards, as the circular stairways were quite narrow.
As we both exited the tower, I looked to my right at the line that had formed near the ticket counter. The light turned green, the turnstile unlocked and two other eager visitors moved through, ready to make the climb.
We walked out to the square and took a look upward, seeing from the exterior what we had just seen from the inside. This ancient tower that actually leans eighty-seven centimeters to the east and has played an important role in its citizens’ lives for centuries…
Now I really need to go and watch In Bruges to see it from another perspective!
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One of the best things about Charleston is that it is a great walking city. With so much history within its boundaries, there is a wealth of information at your fingertips…or rather footsteps…
From block to block, every building, signpost, gate and cobblestone has a story to tell.
Some are marked with signs stating their historical significance.
Some, you can find with a tour guide’s help.
Some, you just need to know.
And some you just stumble upon, along with historical events happening as you walk on by!
2020 Charleston Mayoral Inauguration
Take the time to explore…and learn.
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Situated on the eastern coast of the United States, Charleston has always been subject to natural disasters. Hurricane season still has the city shuttering up and evacuating when an imposing storm approaches.
In its long and tumultuous history, Charleston has also had to face earthquakes, tornadoes and epidemics, but there was one thing that had an even greater impact on the city.
Fire.
The Great Fire of 1698, swept through Charleston only 28 years after it was first settled, devastating the city. Despite the purchase of firefighting equipment, decrees requiring chimneys to be built from brick or stone and night watches, more fires ravaged the city again in 1700, 1740 and in the 1770’s.
After volunteer fire companies were organized during the first half of the 19th century, over 1600 volunteers were available to protect property owners, however, when the Great Fire of 1861 devastated the city, it was the motivation that the city needed to establish a permanent firefighting organization.
As I walked down Meeting Street and perused the dinner menu for Jestine’s Kitchen posted in the window, I noticed in the reflection, the Firehouse across the street. What really caught my eye, actually, was the the cute Dalmatian statue gracing the front of the station!
This central fire house, along with two others, was built under the orders of Mayor William A. Courtenay and in 1882, the city’s first paid fire department was established.
Walking across the street for a closer look, I discovered a small park on the corner of Meeting and Wentworth streets, adjacent to the fire station. Constructed to honor Mayor Courtenay it houses a cast iron pavilion and a commemorative cast iron bell honoring the mayor’s achievements. There is also a fountain that was originally fed by an artesian well, one of several installed around the city to provide the residents with clean water in the 19th century.
After I visited the garden, I took a peek into the firehouse. In addition, to a modern, shiny fire engine parked in one of the Meeting Street bays, there was also two antiques parked in the bays on Wentworth.
A cool diversion for a hot topic!
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There was one thing that I wanted to do while in Charleston but it can sometimes be tricky during the winter.
Fort Sumter.
Less frequent boat schedules and colder weather are sometimes off-putting, so, when I noticed that temperatures were going to be unseasonably warm while I would be in Charleston, I decided that my plan would be a “go”.
Armed with a few layers and an umbrella (just in case), I headed over to the Liberty Square with an intent to catch the afternoon boat. Though it is recommended to purchase tickets in advance during the busier months, I found no problem in purchasing one at the last minute at the National Park Visitor Center.
The Visitor Center offers information about the Fort and its history to browse before boarding the boat and I read through the information while awaiting our boarding time.
The boat, a pseudo paddle wheeler, soon pulled adjacent to the pier. Taking a spot in the front of the boat, I enjoyed the breezy thirty minute ride to the island.
Once we arrived, we were given sixty minutes to tour the fort and the island. National Parks rangers greeted us at the pier and instructed those wanting to take part in the close-of-the-day flag ceremony to follow them to the upper part of the fort. Interesting as that sounded, I was more interested in taking unobstructed photographs, so I used this time, while others were occupied, to walk around the fort.
Construction began on the fort in 1829 and was named for Revolutionary War general and South Carolina native, Thomas Sumter. The fort was one of fifty built as part of a coastal defense program implemented by Congress in 1817 and was erected on a man-made island entirely formed from thousands of tons of granite. It was the site of the Battle of Fort Sumter in 1861, where a thirty-four hour exchange of artillery fire…the first shots of the Civil War…let to a surrender and the occupation by Confederate troops. After the Civil War, the fort was restored by the U.S. military and occupied during the Spanish-American War (1898), World War I (1914-1918) and World War II (1939-1945). In 1948, the fort was decommissioned as a military post and turned over to the National Park Service as a National Historic Site.
Although the fort is built on an 2.4 acre island, there is much to discover including the Powder magazine (where Fort Sumter’s powder was stored) the Gorge Wall (the lightly-armed rear wall facing inland) the Battery Huger (named for War hero, Isaac Huger) and a small museum highlighting the fort’s history and items from its occupation. There are a large number and variety of cannons throughout the property and on the top level, a beautiful view of the bay and Fort Johnson, the site where the first shots of the Civil War were fired from.
An hour goes by pretty quickly and after I had captured my last photograph, the rangers were ushering us out to the waiting boat prepared to take us back to Liberty Square. As the sun was going down, so was the temperature and it was nice to take a seat inside, especially since they were now serving adult beverages!
Nothing like a good adult beverage on a sunset cruise!
That’s what is so great about a visit to Fort Sumter…it’s a two-for-one tour! You not only get a lesson on Civil War history, you get a cruise of the harbor, complete with after-hour beverages. You can even step it up and add to the theme! Have a “shot”!!!
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There are approximately sixty-five churches in Charleston’s downtown area and as I stood at my hotel window, so many majestic steeples and spires dotted the landscape, I almost lost count!
I was intrigued! I always seek out churches in Europe, but I was curious to see what these churches, some very historic, would offer. As I stood before the window, I decided that this would be my mission that day. I would try to see and photograph as many of these historic places of worship as I could!
The French Huguenot Church was first on my list, not only because it was in the area that I was headed, but I was captivated by pictures I had seen. Dating back to 1845, this was the third church to stand on the site and it is the only remaining independent Huguenot Church in America. Although I didn’t get the opportunity to venture inside, I was able to admire its Gothic styled windows, buttresses and decorative details.
Just down the street, I was drawn to St. Philip’s Episcopal Church, one of the most photographed landmarks in Charleston. In 1681, a small wooden building on the site of the current St. Michael’s Episcopal church, housed the congregation until a new church was built on this location in the 1700’s. This church, however, was destroyed by fire in 1835. The current church was completed in 1838 and it’s lofty steeple added a decade later. Again, neither the church nor its graveyard were open as I strolled by, but it should be noted that there are many prominent people buried in this location, including several colonial Governors, five Episcopal bishops and a former United States Vice President.
The Circular Church was organized in 1681 by English Congregationalists, Scots Presbyterians and French Huguenots who were seeking religious freedom. Located on Meeting Street, it was their first church, known as the White Meeting House, that gave the street its name. The second structure was completed in 1806 until it was damaged by the Great Charleston Fire in 1861 and then completely demolished by the Charleston earthquake of 1886. The current circular Romanesque church was completed in 1892, using material from the previous structure. Though, once again, the church was not open to visitors, the graveyard offered some interesting grave sites and tombstones, one dating back to 1695.
So, I was batting zero as far as seeing interiors of these significant sanctuaries and my average didn’t get any better as I arrived at the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist. Out front, a sign was posted stating that the interior was closed while it was receiving a fresh coat of paint! Standing outside, I had to imagine what its notable stained glass windows looked like from the inside while gazing up at the relatively new spire. The cathedral dates back to its completion in 1854, only to see its destruction by the Great Charleston Fire in seven years later. The current construction was completed in 1907, with it spire added 103 years later. Disappointed that I was unable to see the interior of the cathedral, I was invited into the basement chapel by the church’s secretary, for a small respite from the unseasonably warm temperatures.
A little further down the block, I found St. Michael’s, and finally, a church that was open! Built between 1752 and 1761, St. Michael’s Episcopal Church is one of the oldest churches in Charleston, surviving hurricanes, wars, fires and earthquakes. It has hosted some very famous guests including George Washington in 1791 and Robert E. Lee in 1861. As I wandered through the historic structure, I noted the beautiful stained glass window in the apse, a brass chandelier, carved wooden pulpit, cedar box-pews, the three-sided second story gallery and its grand organ.
Despite my disappointment in my mission with most churches being closed, this beautiful church restored my vigor!
Heading in the opposite direction, I made my way over to the Emanuel African Methodist Episcopal Church, often referred to as Mother Emanuel. A Gothic Revival style church built in 1891, it is the oldest African Methodist Episcopal (AME) church in the south. Though I was unaware at the time, I discovered later that this was the church that was the site of a mass shooting in 2015 when a man entered the church and opened fire on a Bible study group.
The Second Presbyterian Church was located a couple of blocks away on Wragg Square. Founded in 1809, the church is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Designed in the Classic Revival style, the brick building features two tiers of windows, a square tower with an octagonal belfry and a Tuscan portico.
Moving on, I spied the New Tabernacle Fourth Baptist Church down the street. After later spotting photographs of this Gothic Revival’s interior, I do wish I could have taken a look inside as it appeared to be quite lovely. This church dates back to 1875 and is the fourth church of the Baptist denomination to be founded in Charleston.
On King Street, named for King Charles II and known for its outstanding shopping, I found St. Matthew’s Lutheran Church. Built in 1872, its 297-foot steeple once made it the tallest building in South Carolina. Today, it is the tallest spire and one that I had seen from my hotel window. After only being able to see most of the churches that I had sought out only from the outside, I was thrilled to find St. Matthew’s open to visitors. The caretaker gave me a detailed history of the church, including the fire that destroyed much of the interior and the steeple, which crashed into King Street. Its original features include the carved pulpit and the stained glass windows in the apse and under the balcony.
Citadel Square Baptist, established in 1854, was the fourth Baptist church built in Charleston and is named after the church’s location across from Marion Square, the location of the Citadel at the time. It makes a beautiful site from the square with its flaxen hued exterior and lanky spire.
Redeemer Presbyterian Church is a relatively new church, started in 2005 on James Island. After deciding to relocate to the downtown area, this church assumed ownership of St. Andrew’s Lutheran Church, which dates back to 1853. Again, it was not open to the public, but I thought that it was a stately building created in the classical Greek revival style.
The last church I came upon was St. Johannes Lutheran Church. To be quite frank, it looked so much like the previous one. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, however, this church was established in 1842 by a constituency of 52 Lutherans who wanted to retain the German language in their services. In fact, German was spoken until 1910. I understand that the interior is quite beautiful, so I will have to do further investigation to find when the church might be open to visitors.
As the afternoon was coming to a close, I did a quick count…twelve churches. Wow! But wait, how many are there in the downtown area?
I read somewhere that there are over 400 places of worship of different denominations throughout the city. If this is the case, it truly is a Holy City.
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