history – Page 11 – Snapping The Globe

The Icon

The Jewish Quarter of Rome.

For all of my knowledge of the Eternal City, I was surprised that I did not know that this area existed and was surprised by some amazing finds!

The Portico of Ottavia, the Temple of Apollo Sosianus and the Theatre of Marcellus were remarkable discoveries in a city where I thought I had seen the majority of its architectural wealth!

Ascending the stairs, to the Via Montanara, after my visit to the Theatre of Marcellus, I began to walk towards the Piazza di Campitelli. A church on the left caught my attention.

It was still early…yes…I had time!

The church of Santa Maria in Portico in Campitelli is a church hidden on a side street in the Jewish Quarter. Built in the 17th century, on the site of a primitive church that was located here from 523-526, this ancient church was constructed to house an icon of the Virgin Mary, who was said to have miraculously appeared at the the table of a Roman woman who assisted the poor. It was believed that this icon played a major role in stopping a plague and has been carried in procession through the streets ever since.

It was almost dark as I glanced at the facade of the church, all lit up in the cold winter evening. Not positive that the church was indeed open, I tentatively stepped up to the entrance, and glanced around. The interior was a stark contrast to its exterior, dimly lit and no daylight illuminating its few windows. As I stepped inside, however, this obfuscated ambiance led to the mystery of this church…what would I find in the shadows?

My eyes were immediately drawn to the main altar, the berth of the much venerated religious icon that the church is known for. Decorating the sanctuary is an ornate, Bernini inspired altarpiece which captured every bit of my attention trying to decipher and appreciate every gold detail. Though I did not notice it forthwith, my eyes soon settled upon a very small enameled icon of the Blessed Mother and the Child Jesus, enthroned within the particulars of the artistry. This was the icon that Santa Maria in Portico in Campitelli is known for!

Continuing my investigation of the church, I first glanced upward at the magnificent dome which enhances the main altar and then moved on to the many chapels that line each side of the church. The chapels on the left are that of the Altieri and Capizucchi families, each containing amazing works of art including marble altarpieces, vaulted frescoes, funeral monuments. The second chapel on the left has a notable altarpiece depicting the Glory of Blessed Leonardi whose relic is located here. Saint John Leonardi, lived from 1541 to 1609 and is buried within the church. He was a priest and founder of the Order that still ministers to the church to the present day.

There are chapels on the right displaying paintings and stuccos and a chapel of the relics which allows access to the sacristy containing a portable Byzantine altar with micromosaic images of the Redeemer, the Virgin and St. John the Evangelist.

Other notable features include a Baptistery with two fifteenth century tabernacles, a ciborium and holy oils, monuments to Cardinal Nardi and Cardinal Bartolomeo Pacca and a splendid gold Baroque organ in the gallery.

Though the entire space is not an immense one, I thought that it offered a sense of elegance, a rich history and especially during the darkened evening hours, an air of secrecy. As I investigated each nook and cranny, I eagerly pondered what I would find and reveled in every treasure.

If your itinerary finds you in Rome’s Jewish Quarter, take a few minutes to lay your eyes upon the famous icon displayed above the altar and ask for protection from the Our Lady of Campitelli.

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Santa Maria in Portico in Campitelli

https://www.santamariainportico.it/
Address: Campitelli Square, 9, 00186 Rome
Hours: 0700-1230 and 1530-1900, daily
Admission: free

The Imposter

The Roman Colosseum is a major landmark known throughout the world.

The Jewish Colosseum. Never heard of it…not as it is called and not by its actual name either.

For as many visits as I have had to Rome, this spectacular piece of architecture had never been on my radar, despite walking in the area many times.

The former monument once held 55,000 spectators and is visited by thousands of tourists and bordered by Arch of Constantine and the Roman Forum. It is one of the landmarks that most visitors to Rome aspire to visit, along with the Pantheon, the Vatican, the Trevi Fountain and the Roman Forum.

The Jewish Colosseum, or Theatre of Marcellus, a smaller colosseum, once held 13,000 spectators and is tucked away behind the Altare de Patria. Not many tourists actively seek it out, some merely stumbling upon it while walking a path from the Capitoline Hill area to the river.

Many, however, confuse the two.

Located in the Jewish Quarter of Rome, the Theatre of Marcellus is a bit of an impostor…well, only for those, not in the know! There are actually many differences!

Those of us who are familiar with the original, easily recognize the differences between the two, but it is easy to understand that many who are first-timers to Rome or see pictures of the theater may be easily confused.

The theater, erected in the 1st century BC, was originally conceived by Julius Caesar and then recommenced by Octavian Augustus after Caesar’s death. It was built on the remains of the ancient Circus Flaminius (221 BC) which was used as a marketplace and for assemblies and many porticoes and temples filled the area. At first glance, it appears to be quite similar to the Colosseum, with both being constructed with three floors of arcades, however, only the two-story fragment on the theater has survived the test of time and modern construction. Located in the Jewish Ghetto area of Rome, it has become known as the Jewish Colosseum.

As I walked along the Via del Foro Piscario, examining the Temple of Apollo Sosianus, it was surprising to see this lesser version of the structure that once hosted the mighty gladiator games.

It was impressive to see the Theatre of Marcellus at close range, however, the structure is not open to visitors and I had to be content to walk along its perimeter. As I made my way around the formation, however, I was bewildered to see that the arcades stopped abruptly. Instead of the characteristic network of arches, corridors, tunnels and ramps that form part of the structure, there were smooth walls and modern windows.

As I retraced my steps, to re-examine the facade, I began to notice the two-stories of arcades, not three. There were windows and a modern walls and windows topping the structure. Not at all like the Roman colosseum!

Of course, every city develops over time and some ancient monuments are destroyed or concealed when modernization occurs. The theater, which once hosted live performances, was reconstructed during the Middle Ages. The top tier of seating was removed and the residence of the Orsini was built atop the ruins during the 16th century.

What I was now seeing was the Palazzo Orsini and a series of apartments and behind the theater were more ruins next to the church of San Nicola in Carcere (added to my list of future churches to visit!).

Walking back to the open area and ascending the steps, I was rewarded with remarkable views of not only this impostor Colosseum, but the entire area of relics, including the Portico of Ottavia and the Temple of Apollo Sosianus.

How had I never know this existed?

I guess I am not alone, but more people should seek out this special area of Rome, rich in history and architecure.

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Teatro Marcello

Address: Teatro di Marcello Street, 00186 Rome
Hours: 24 hours, daily. Exterior view only.
Admission: free
Getting There: Bus, Teatro Marcello/Ara Coeli stop, Lines 30, 44, 51, 63, 81, 83, 85, 87, 118

The Portico, The Church and The Temple

Seeking out adventure in Italy is easy.

So, while in Rome, when a friend asked me to rent a car and drive to some nearby cities, I was tempted. Very tempted.

Problem was, I had promised my cousin that I would seek out some special rosaries in Vatican City that he had asked me to purchase!

What to do? What to do?

Always striving to keep my promises and pleased to have such an important errand for the day, I headed out into the beautiful afternoon in search of the religious treasures he was seeking. After many religious shops and several texts, I finally found what he was requesting, made the purchases and then walked out past St. Peter’s Basilica.

Not really having a plan for the rest of the afternoon, of which I still had much time, I headed toward the Tiber River and walked southeast, soaking up the warm sun, which was casting its brilliant rays on the swift moving waters. As I neared Tiber Island, I decided to take a left away from my original trek, not really sure where my path was leading.

Striding up the Via del Portico d’Ottavia an area of the city I had never transited, I encountered a large tour group standing in front of the facade of a lofty ruined structure. Not sure what I was viewing, I made my way down the ramp to study the signage and learned that what I was standing in front of was the Portico of Octavia, an ancient structure built by Augustus in the name of his sister, Octavia Minor after 27 BC. The structure was used as a fish market until the end of the 19th century and the colonnaded walks enclosed the temples of Jupiter Stator and Juno Regina as well as a library.

The church of Sant’Angelo in Pescheria is built into the ruins and as I made my way across the walkway, I entered this religious temple.

Famous for the ruined portico as its narthex, the church was originally dedicated to St. Paul and then later, St. Michael. Rebuilt during the Middle ages, the church was used as the headquarters for the Confraternity of Fishmongers. A reconstruction on the right hand aisle, for their use, resulted in the Chapel of St. Andrew, the patron saint of fisherman. Interestingly enough, the fishmongers became dissatisfied with their small chapel and built their own church next door, Sant’Andrea dei Pescivendoli, which is now deconsecrated. The chapel is one of the treasures of the church and decorated in gilded stucco and frescoed panels. The panels on the ceiling show events in the life of St. Andrew and fish are featured throughout. The panels flanking the altar, date back to 1598, and feature St. Francis of Assisi on the left and St. Francis of Rome on the right. You can also spot the Contrafraternity’s shield on the marble floor which features a deer, a pair of geese and a large sturgeon.

The left side aisle was once dedicated to Our Lady of Graces but is now graced by a modern crucifix decorated with a bronze sculpture. The altar contains an opening which allows a glimpse of the relics of the martyrs Cyrus and John of Alexandria which were brought from the church of Santa Passera in the 14th century. On the altar, you can also find the relics of the martyred Saint Symphorosa and her comanions.

As I turned to face the rear of the church, I was confronted with the gallery which houses the original organ installed in the 18th century. It is not in very good condition and therefore, unplayable.

The church now used by the Communita Maria, a Marian lay worshiping community, is often frequented by those visiting the ruins of the Portico. The front door is often not open, as it was on my visit, however, you can use the walkway to the left of the portico. This passes through to the Via Sant’Angelo in Pescheria, a dead-end street, where you can find the most commonly used entrance to the church on the right. This was the doorway that I exited and I made my way around to the front of the portico once again.

Heading down to the Via del Foro Pescario, I marveled at the ruins that littered the sides of the ancient street. On the right, I encountered the remains of the Temple of Apollo Medicus Sosianus, the Roman temple dedicated to Apollo, whose full name is derived from its final rebuilder, Gaius Sosianus. Some may recognize Sosianus as the person responsible for placing Herod on the throne of Jerusalem.

I gazed up at the only parts remaining of the temple, three columns that form the front right-hand corner of the temple, which was restored in 353 BC and 179 BC. The temple originally displayed six columns on the front, two at the side and seven more attached to the inner chamber wall. The chamber was once decorated with colored marbled and contained a large collection of marble statues, all relating to Apollo. Several relics from the temple can be seen in the Central Montemartini Museum.

Though I knew that I was near Palatine Hill and the Capitoline Museums, areas I was familiar with, I was struck that I had never encountered this little slice of history.

And as I turned to the right, my bearings were even more disconcerted.

The colosseum was here?

To be continued…

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Portico di Ottavia

Address: Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 29, 00186 Rome
Hours: Summer, 0900-1900, Winter, 0900-1800
Admission: free
Getting There: Bus, Teatro Marcello/Ara Coeli stop, Lines 30, 44, 51, 63, 81, 83, 85, 87, 118

Church of Sant’Angelo in Pescheria

Address: Via della Tribuna di Campitelli, 00186 Rome
Hours: unknown
Admission: free
Getting There: Bus, Teatro Marcello/Ara Coeli stop, Lines 30, 44, 51, 63, 81, 83, 85, 87, 118

Temple of Apollo Medicus Sosianus

Address: Via del Teatro di Marcello, 42, 00186 Rome
Hours: Summer, 0900-1900, Winter, 0900-1800
Admission: free
Getting There: Bus, Teatro Marcello/Ara Coeli stop, Lines 30, 44, 51, 63, 81, 83, 85, 87, 118

Venice of the North

The canal water was still, from the lack of boat traffic, as I stood along the banks of Bruges canals. I realized how much it reminded me of Amsterdam and a little of Venice. In fact, Bruges shares the title of “Venice of the North” with its neighbor, Amsterdam.

The city, which originated on the banks of the river Reie, can trace its origins back to the days of the Vikings. Officially becoming a city in 1128, the city’s medieval center, lined with historic buildings, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and attracts thousands of tourists each year.

While many of its main attractions are located in the city center, it is highly recommended to take a boat ride or stroll along the canals which were once part of Bruges’ old ramparts and city walls. From this starting point, you can venture into many of the city’s neighborhoods and less beaten paths.

Because our visit to Bruges was in January, the canal tour boats were parked for the winter season, lending to the serenity of the quieter streets of Bruges. For those who want to stroll along the canals, you can start and Zand Square and finish at the Bonifacius bridge near the Church of Our Lady, which takes you past some of the most romantic bridges of the city.

Since our time in Bruges was limited and the boats were not running, it was up to our feet to carry us throughout the city. We opted not take this particular canal walk, instead strolling along the canals when our route around the city put us there. Electing to take the quieter streets, we reveled in the beautiful styles and decoration of the homes, churches and businesses.

We encountered artwork both on the streets and in windows and there was always beer and chocolate!

Though you can take a tour with a qualified guide, you can also bike throughout the city, take a City Tour in a mini bus or even take a horse-drawn carriage. Whatever you choose, be it guided or on your own time, you will not be disappointed.

Bruges is one city that you will never forget!

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Bruges Boat Tours

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/bruggemetdeboot
Address: Boats can be boarded at one of the five landings, Michielssens and Huidenvettersplein, Coudenys and Rozenhoedkaai, De Meulemeester and Wollestraat, Gruuthuse and Nieuwstraat, Stael and Katelijnestraat
Hours: 1000-1800, daily
Admission: Adults, €10,00, Children (ages 4-11), €6,00, (ages 3 and under), free, Bruges residents, €9,00

Thrown From the Bridge

There is a statue on Prague’s Charles Bridge of Saint Johannes van Nepomuk (St. John of Nepomuk) that I have walked past many times and often rubbed the plaque at the bottom for good luck.

Everyone needs a little luck and I wouldn’t want the bridge to crumble beneath my feet, plunging me to my death into the Vltava River, right?

It is widely known that Saint Johannes van Nepomuk, a priest, was drowned in the Vltava River on the orders of Wenceslaus IV, King of the Romans and King of Bohemia. He is considered the first martyr and a protector from floods and drowning.

What I was not aware was that there are other statues of Saint Johannes van Nepomuk throughout the world including,

Monument on Cathedral Island, at the Church of the Holy Cross, Wroclaw, Poland
St. John of Nepomuk Statue in Buchach, Ukraine
Statue of St. John of Nepomuk in Divina, Slovakia
Saint Nepomuk on the Schwarzen Bridge in Loningen, Germany
Statue of St. John of Nepomuk in churchyard of the cathedral, Passau, Germany
Statue of St. John of Nepomuk in churchyard of the cathedral, Passau, Germany
Roadside figure of St. John of Nepomuk, Buchach, Ukraine
Statue on bridge of St. John Nepomuk, Wurzburg, Bavaria, Germany

When I had planned our route through Bruges, I had noticed a monument marked on my Google map as a point of interest on the Wollestraat Bridge. We had stopped to take a couple of pictures of the statue, dodging a tour guide and their group, but continued on our journey that day. It wasn’t until later when someone asked if we had seen the famous statue on the bridge that I realized it was an important landmark in Bruges.

This statue of the Saint was designed by Flemish sculptor Pieter Pepers in 1767 and appears, like most others, with a halo of five stars, which commemorate the stars that hovered over the Vltava River on the night of his murder and which are said to symbolize the five letters of the Latin word “tacet” which means silent. He is adorned in priestly robes and carries a large crucifix to which he has set his gaze upon.

What we learned was that the original statue was replaced in 1811.

Why?

It was thrown in to the Dyver Canal in 1795!

Seems that Saint Nepomuk can’t stay off of bridges or out of the river!

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Saint Johannes of Nepomuk Statue

Address: Dijver, 8000 Brugge, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

The Icing On the Cake

My husband likes to go to church.

For mass.

He just doesn’t like visiting them as a tourist. In fact, he feels like it’s an intrusion and a bit disrespectful.

Good Catholic guilt.

On the other hand, there is me. Raised as a Catholic and no stranger to my own religion’s institutions, there is a great admiration for architectural elements, decorative features and their history of all churches. As I walk through and examine each interior, I always think of others. Everyone should see this! I guess my love for spreading how remarkable these temples are, outweighs my Catholic guilt. Imagining that my blog posts and pictures might inspire one person to venture into a church out of curiosity, might inspire them to stay…for good…no matter the religion.

While in Bruges, there were many churches that I would have loved to investigate. I knew that getting my husband to see one church during our short visit was probable. Two…slim. Three…not going to happen, especially when there was so many other things to see.

Having already visited the Basilica of the Holy Blood, I stared wistfully at each church that we passed, wondering what lay inside. As we made our way through the main square, in the waning light, we stopped inside a few chocolaterias, searching for decadent souvenirs.

As we headed in the direction of the train station, I spied the tower of Saint Salvator Cathedral (Sint-Salvatorskathedraal) ahead on the right. Realizing that it was the end of the day, I consoled myself with the knowledge that it was probably already closed.

Surprisingly, as I stopped to take a picture of the exterior, my husband suggested that we see if it was still open…

It was!

Saint Salvator’s, the main church of the city, was originally built during the 10th century as a parish church in the shadow of St. Donatian’s Cathedral. St. Donatian’s was located opposite the city hall and was the religious heart of the community, but was destroyed by fire in 1116. A new church was constructed in 1127 and a century later, the lengthy construction of the present church was begun only to be destroyed by the French occupiers of Bruges in the 18th century.

After Belgium obtained its independence in 1830, Saint Salvator was given the status of cathedral and became the main church of the Catholic population. Because of its smaller size, however, renovations were required to elevate it to its higher status and one of the main features is its tall tower dating from the 12th century which outshines the nearby Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk, the Church of Our Lady.

Entering the cathedral, we made our way throughout the ornate interior, noting some of the exquisite furnishings. There are many works of art originally stored in Saint Donatian’s cathedral and original paintings that the wall carpets (that can be viewed at the entrance) were modeled on and originally commissioned for Saint Donatian’s.

Some of its other treasures include its organ which was completed in 1719 and expanded and rebuilt three times in the 20th century. In the choir, the original 16th century podium can be regarded as well as a baroque fence made by Artus Quellinus the Younger.

Inside the cathedral’s south transept, there is the church Treasury which displays jewelry, reliquaries and objects used in religious services, however, in the interest of time, we were unable to visit. Before our exit, however, we did take note in the front of the church, the medieval tombs that were unearthed during renovations during 1989-1993. These 14th century tombs are covered in plexiglass and brightly painted in the style that was typical of Flanders in that period.

As we stepped out into the evening to make our way back to the train station, I glanced back at the soaring tower of the church. With all that we had seen in the city, being able to sneak in a visit to the Cathedral was icing on the cake!

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Cathedral of Bruges (Saint Salvatore’s Cathedral)

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/sint-salvatorskathedraal-saint-saviours-cathedral
Address: Sint-Salvatorskoorstraat 8, 8000 Bruges
Hours: Monday-Friday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1730. Saturday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1530. Sunday, 1130-1200 and 1400-1700. January 1, May 21, December 24-25, 1000-1300.
Admission: free

Walks, Winds and Ways

If spending time outdoors while visiting Bruges is more interesting than fighting other tourists for space in a museum or a crowded bar, there is much to keep you busy.

Spectacular architecture fills the city at every turn but if you are looking for a lovely place to stroll, exercise or even enjoy a picnic, head over to the eastern side of Bruges.

Aware that Belgium has a rich mill history dating back to the 16th century when twenty-three windmills graced the city, I was anxious to set aside some time during our visit to see the four mills that dot the city’s landscape and once produced the flour needed for the daily diet of the urban population.

Heading from the city center, it took us about fifteen minutes to reach the first windmill, located near the Kruispoort gate, which is quite fascinating in itself. The Kruispoort was completed in 1304 and rebuilt a short time later in 1366. It was destroyed in 1382 when Philip van Artevelde captured the city with the Ghent militia. The gate was reconstructed in 1400 with the two heavy towers and a narrow passage being preserved. It should be noted that this was the location where the Scottish soldiers crossed into Bruges during the city’s liberation during World War 2.

The Kruispoort gate is one of four remaining gates to the city. The others, Gentpoort (on the eastern side), Ezelpoort (dating back to 1369) and Smedenpoort (dating back to 1368) are all worth a visit when walking the entire circuit around the city. The Dampoort, probably the most noteworthy due to its massive size (a complex of three interconnected gates), was demolished in 1871, but a part of one of the round towers is still visible.

Ezelpoort, located on Ezelstraat on the crossing of Ezelstraat and the Gulden-Vlieslaan

Gentpoort, located on Gentpoortstraat on the crossing of the Gentpoorstraat, Boninvest and Gentpoortvest

Smedenpoort (The Blacksmith’s Gate), located at the end of Smedenstraat on the crossing of the Smedenstraat and Buiten Boninvest

After walking through the Kruispoort, we began our walk along the ramparts and the canal to examine each of the windmills.

The first we encountered was Bonne Chiere also known as Staakmolen or Post Mill. Originally built in 1844 and then rebuilt at its current location in its same architectural style, this mill was never used for grinding grain. It is not open for visitors, however, you can walk right up to the structure for excellent views.

Sint-Janshuismill was located a short walk away. Built in 1770, this is the only mill standing on its original location and the only one open to the public. The wooden flour mill is still in operation.

A little further, we encountered Nieuwe Papegaai. Originally built in 1790 as an oil mill called the Hoge Seinemolen, this mill was moved to its current location in 1970. Similar to the other mills, this one has one a quirky piece of art perched on its roof…a parrot!

Finally, we reached the fourth and final windmill, Koeleweimolen, also known as the Coelewey Mill which was used for grinding corn. This mill was transported from Meulebeke where it was constructed in 1765.

Although it would have been nice to walk the entire circuit around the city to see the other gates, time was not on our side. It was fascinating, however, to witness some of historical construction outside of the city center and the picturesque scenes along the canal.

Besides, who doesn’t love a windmill?

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Kruispoort

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/kruispoort-kruispoort-gate
Address: Langestraat 191 , Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Located on Langestraat on the crossing of Langestraat, Kruisvest and Kazernevest.

Ezelpoort

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/ezelpoort-donkeys-gate
Address: Ezelstraat 122 , Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Located on Ezelstraat on the crossing of Ezelstraat and the Gulden-Vlieslaan.

Geentpoort

Address: Gentpoortvest, Bruges 8000 Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Located on Gentpoortstraat on the crossing of the Gentpoorstraat, Boninvest and Gentpoortvest.

Smedenpoort

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/smedenpoort-blacksmiths-gate
Address: Buiten de Smedenpoort 1, Bruges 8000 Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Located at the end of Smedenstraat on the crossing of the Smedenstraat and Buiten Boninvest.

Bonne-Chieremolen

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/windmills-of-bruges
Address: Kruisvest 5, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: No visitors allowed inside.

Sint-Janshuismill

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/windmills-of-bruges
Address: Kruisvest 3, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: May 21-31, 0930-1300. June-September, 0930-1230 and 1300-1700, Tuesday to Sunday. Closed Monday.
Admission: Adults, €4.00, Seniors 65+, €3.00, Youth (ages 18-25), €3.00, Children (ages 0-17), free

Nieuwe Papegaai

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/windmills-of-bruges
Address: Kruisvest 3, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: No visitors allowed inside.

Koeleweimolen

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/windmills-of-bruges
Address: Kruisvest 11, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: No visitors allowed inside.

Nothing To Sea

With a location near the North Sea, how could you not expect to get the freshest seafood in Bruges?

The Vismarkt, also known as the Fish Market, is centrally located near Burg Square and is the place to purchase the freshest fish and seafood in the city. The current location, dating back to 1821, was erected following the townspeople’s request to move it from Market Square, where the smell was overwhelming. The building was constructed, per Napoleon’s order to the city mayor to modernize public facilities, and still remains in excellent condition.

Though it would have been nice to see the market in action, we visited on a Monday, one of the two days the market is closed. The covered arcade usually bustles with fishmongers hawking their catch and sometimes artists and artisans displaying their creations. If you have to pick a day to visit, however, Friday nights, during summer, offer live concerts and open-air tapas bars with fish based snacks.

For those interested in the history of the city and hoping to get something for dinner, combine it with a walk along the scenic canal and a photo op with the bust of former mayor Frank Van Acker.

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Vismarkt

Address, Groenerei Canal, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday, 0800-1330
Admission: free
Getting There: Bus, 4, 6, 14, 16, 88

No Bats In This Belfrey

There is a movie called In Bruges.

Ever hear of it?

I will admit, I have never seen it, but for some reason, I was always intrigued with the idea of visiting Bruges.

My stays in Belgium have always consisted of a short twenty-four hours in Brussels, leaving me to think that I never had enough time to travel to Bruges, after my oh-so-important nap…after flying all night. When my husband and I decided to take a trip to Brussels for a few days, he was informed that plan number one included a day trip to Bruges.

After an hour’s train ride, we arrived in Bruges and made our way toward the city’s center. I had done a bit of legwork and made a list of some things that would be of interest to both my husband and I.

Having a quick bite (Belgian waffles, of course!), we sat in the cozy little cafe and gaze out into the Market Square, centered with a statue paying tribute to Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck, leaders of the Bruges Matin, an uprising against the French in the 14th. The square is surrounded by beautiful and historic architecture including the Provincial Court building and the majestic Belfort.

The Belfort was where we were going to start our exploration, though knowing that 366 steps to the top was involved…I was a bit apprehensive. But dressed for the occasion in my most comfortable boots, I was ready to see what this historic landmark would offer.

The 13th century Belfort is one of the three historically important towers of Bruges (with the Church of Our Lady and St. Saviour’s Cathedral) and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Standing 83 meters high, the tower formerly housed a treasury, the municipal archives and served as an observation post for spotting fires, invaders and other dangers.

As we entered the former market hall, we climbed the stairs to the second level where the ticket counter is located. After purchasing our tickets, we were required to wait at the turnstile until it was unlocked and let us through…this was after two other people left the tower. One in, one out. It is unimaginable how lengthy the lines must become during the busier summer months!

Beginning our climb, we took it slowly and were happy to have a break when we reached the former Treasury. Here, the privileges, city’s charters, city’s seal and its accounts and funds were stored in this vaulted room from the thirteenth century onward. These precious documents were stored in padlocked chests behind the heavy wrought iron doors.

The belfry was also a meeting location for the town aldermen and was the preferred location for proclamations. These announcements were read from the balcony of the hall tower.

Continuing our climb, we headed upward to the next part of the tower which offered an explanation of how time was measured, how this process evolved over time and its importance to the citizens of Bruges. In this medieval city, the sound of the bells ruled the lives of its citizens and were used as a way of organizing their daily routines. Combinations of the pitches of these bells let citizens know exactly what was the time of day and what events were to take place. For example, the work bell was rung for the start of the working day, the noon bell signaled time for a lunch break and the evening bell marked the hour when the city’s gates were closed. The ringing of the bells also marked certain occasions such as a call to battle, the outbreak of fire, proclamations, public executions or the beginning and end of market days. The tower guards, who were responsible for sounding the bells, often passed the time between the hours, practicing their trades. A job often held by cobblers, you can probably imagine many a shoe was created here.

Today, Bruges has a city carillonneur who plays the bells on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays from 1100 to noon. If you are visiting during the summer months, keep your ears pealed for special carillon concerts.

Taking a deep breath, we ascended the stairs to reach the Drum Room which not only displayed some of the ten great bells that have graced the tower since 1280, but the largest, brought over from the Church of Our Lady. This great bell weighs approximately six tons and has a diameter of almost seven feet. The drum is the largest in existence and thought to weigh nine tons. It plays a melody every quarter of the hour and every half hour is marked with a short musical signal. Every two years, the music is changed. The clock, which can be spied from the square below, was made in 1748 and is operated by a three meter long pendulum.

Finally (and breathlessly), we reached the top of the tower in which the bells can be seen hanging from the rafters. This is the spot which you really appreciate the three hundred sixty-six steps that you just climbed! Unparalleled views of the city are like no other.

Heading back down was much easier than than the climb to the top, however, it was took a bit of maneuvering when encountering those heading upwards, as the circular stairways were quite narrow.

As we both exited the tower, I looked to my right at the line that had formed near the ticket counter. The light turned green, the turnstile unlocked and two other eager visitors moved through, ready to make the climb.

We walked out to the square and took a look upward, seeing from the exterior what we had just seen from the inside. This ancient tower that actually leans eighty-seven centimeters to the east and has played an important role in its citizens’ lives for centuries…

Now I really need to go and watch In Bruges to see it from another perspective!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Bruges Belfort (Belfry and Carillon)

https://www.museabrugge.be/en/visit-our-museums/our-museums-and-monuments/belfort
Address: Markt 7 , Brugge
Hours: 0930-1800, daily. Closed January 1, December 25 and March 12. Closed at 1300 on May 21 and at 1600 on December 24 and 31.
Admission: Adults, €12,00, Seniors 65+, €10,00, Children (ages 0-5 years), €0,00, Youth (ages 5-25 years), €10,00

Manneken Peace

Every woman loves a good outfit!

Why shouldn’t a statue?

Mannekin Pis, the statue which is a huge part of Brussels’ cultural heritage, is one of my favorite landmarks to take new visitors to the city to see. So when my husband joined me on a recent trip, the first place I took him was to see the little “Pissing Boy.”

I have visited this statue on many occasions, but this time, as luck would have it, was the first time I was able to see him in one of his costumes! This was such a coincidence as we were also on our way to the statue’s own special museum. The Garderobe Manneken Pis is located just down the street and houses the statue’s vast collection of costumes. It’s like his own personal closet!

Once housed in the Maison du Roi on the Grand Place, the wardrobe was moved to its current location in February 2017. It was surprising to find it to be such a small museum as I knew that his wardrobe consists of nearly 1,000 items.

The museum displays a selection of more than one hundred costumes, (some dating back to the 17th century) that are presented according to seven themes, geography, folklore, charity and citizens’ associations, trades, celebrities and characters, sports and designers. He is gifted with about fifteen or so new costumes each year and regularly wears the costumes from his collection, being dressed up about 130 times per year.

But where do his costumes come from?

In order to present Manneken Pis with a costume, a request must be made to the Mayor and the Aldermen of the City of Brussels. Certain stipulations must be met before the costume can be accepted, such as the quality of the fabric and that the costume is not being used to promote political purposes, political beliefs or advertising. If the proposal is accepted, the donors are responsible for the creation of the costume according to strict instructions. An official ceremony is then scheduled to be held in City Hall where the new costume is formally received. A procession to the fountain follows the ceremony, where the official dresser presents the new outfit to Manneken Pis and his is outfitted in his newest duds. He wears this new outfit for the rest of the day and it then officially becomes part of his wardrobe. From this time on, the donors can then make a request for Manneken Pis to be dressed in their costume for specific occasions, such as national days of celebrations, a meeting for members of an association or fellowship or to mark a sporting, cultural or charity event.

The costumes were stunning, whimsical, unique and classical. Many come from all over the world, though a great deal (not surprisingly) were donated from his home country of Beligium. My favorites included Mickey Mouse (1969), a traditional costume from Bolivia (2007) and a replica of the original costume given by King Louis XV of France in 1745, which is the oldest outfit in Manneken Pis’s wardrobe.

Some pieces have not withstood the test of time, so in order to view the entire collection, the museum offers an interactive terminal. My favorite thing, however, was the area for visitor’s to dress a replica of Manneken Pis, which, of course, I had to do!

Wouldn’t it be fun to be Manneken Pis’s dresser? I think that this must be a highly coveted job and I wouldn’t mind a piece of that action…keeping Manneken Pis clothed to celebrate events and traditions! Must give him peace to know that he doesn’t have to always be naked! 🙂

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Garderobe Manneken Pis

https://www.brusselsmuseums.be/en/museums/garderobe-mannekenpis
Address: Rue du Chêne 19 Bruxelles
Hours: Tuesday- Sunday, 1000-1700. Closed on Mondays and on January 1, January 5, January 11, November 11, December 25 and December 31. Closes at 1600 on December 24 and December 31.
Admission: Adults ages 18+, 4€. Under age 18 and citizens of Brussels, free. Free with Brussels card and on the first Sunday of the month. You can purchase a combined ticket for both the Garderobe Manneken Pis and the BrusselsCity Museum, 8€.
Getting There: Metro, station Bourse/Beurs, lines 3 and 4. Bus stops, Grand Place/Grote Markt and Cesar de Paepe.

Full List of costumes and origination dates

01/05/1698	0	Habit rich Maximilian (see No. 677)
31/05/1747	1	Habit given by King Louis XV
01/01/1770	2	Gala costume, City of Brussels (exact date unknown)
01/01/1790	3	Marquis (exact date unknown)
01/01/1820	4	Gala Habit (exact date unknown)
01/01/1830	6	Volunteer of the Belgian Revolution (exact date unknown) – New outfit available in 2006, see No. 781 (date précise inconnue) – Nouveau costume offert en 2006, voir n°781
01/01/1852	5	1852 gala dress (exact date unknown)
29/11/1918	7	“Jass” of the 12th regiment of Line Petite out dress – Gift of the City of Brussels with the money made by the elders of 1870 and 14/18
06/03/1919	8	19th Battalion of the French foot Hunters – Don Ducornez the Commander. 11/10/45 wore to visit the General De Gaulle
19/11/1921	9	Student of the ULB (see No. 690)
11/06/1922	10	Boy Scout Baden Powell – 10th anniversary of the police Brussels
22/04/1923	11	Alsace – Don bourgeois Colmar
11/05/1927	12	Service clubs “The Gays Fellows” – 50th anniversary of the Royal Circle and Philanthropy
16/01/1928	13	Jimbaori costume Samurai, Asahi Journal
07/01/1929	14	Gille de Binche (see No. 916)
17/02/1929	15	Huntsman Brabant Brabant Rally. Master Crews from Belgium
21/06/1930	16	1st Regiment Carabinieri 100th anniversary Grande held in use until 1914
12/10/1930	17	Minor in the region of Mons President of the Society of United Decorated Charbonnages West from Mons to Boussu. Visit to Brussels to Labor Day
09/01/1931	18	India child Parsee religion, Bombay (or 14/01/1931)
03/03/1932	19	Sioux Indian Circus Sarrasini (demonstration in Monoment fairground)
11/12/1932	20	Gunner, 2nd Artillery Regiment Fraternal old Raiment in use until 1914
01/10/1933	21	“Piot” 10th anniversary of the 9th Regiment of the Line Fraternal Petite out dress before 1914
27/05/1934	22	Conservatory System Old 35th anniversary of philanthropy
04/06/1935	23	Polynesian dancer
03/08/1935	24	Alsatian
26/09/1935	25	Great Daimyo armor shops Matsu Zakaia Remembrance visiting If Mr Thys, Special Ambassador for the emperor to announce the death of Albert I and the advent of Leopold III
05/05/1936	26	Mr. Noble Kigo Japanese architect in Osaka
26/01/1937	27	1st Regiment of Grenadiers Regiment Centennial
31/05/1937	28	Lawyer toga
05/07/1938	29	Boater, Circle 60th Anniversary Regatta
19/02/1939	30	Pierrot the circle “The Nameless” Cercle Royal choral and philanthropy founded in 1883
27/02/1939	31	Student Liège Royal Association of medical students and pharmacy (or 02.28.1939)
20/05/1941	32	Corporal Don 9th Line Regiment Lady-Ackermans Top
29/07/1945	33	Sergeant Welsh Guards – Raiment peacetime. Commemoration of September 3, 1944
04/09/1945	34	Liberation Brigade Piron – Jean Piron Brigade Commander
20/10/1945	35	Belgian paratrooper Special Air Service
21/10/1945	36	Member of the National Movement MNB Belgian. MP receives honorary brigade municipal utilities and provincial lecommandement
27/10/1945	37	US Marine Commander Don Boas Dressed October 27, “Navy Day” in the USA
15/12/1945	38	Sergeant Pilot RAF December 15: the anniversary of the Battle of Britain (8 / 08-31 / 10/40)
13/02/1946	39	Sergeant Major of the PM April 6: the anniversary of the entry into the war the Army of the USA in 14/18