The Icon

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The Jewish Quarter of Rome.

For all of my knowledge of the Eternal City, I was surprised that I did not know that this area existed and was surprised by some amazing finds!

The Portico of Ottavia, the Temple of Apollo Sosianus and the Theatre of Marcellus were remarkable discoveries in a city where I thought I had seen the majority of its architectural wealth!

Ascending the stairs, to the Via Montanara, after my visit to the Theatre of Marcellus, I began to walk towards the Piazza di Campitelli. A church on the left caught my attention.

It was still early…yes…I had time!

The church of Santa Maria in Portico in Campitelli is a church hidden on a side street in the Jewish Quarter. Built in the 17th century, on the site of a primitive church that was located here from 523-526, this ancient church was constructed to house an icon of the Virgin Mary, who was said to have miraculously appeared at the the table of a Roman woman who assisted the poor. It was believed that this icon played a major role in stopping a plague and has been carried in procession through the streets ever since.

It was almost dark as I glanced at the facade of the church, all lit up in the cold winter evening. Not positive that the church was indeed open, I tentatively stepped up to the entrance, and glanced around. The interior was a stark contrast to its exterior, dimly lit and no daylight illuminating its few windows. As I stepped inside, however, this obfuscated ambiance led to the mystery of this church…what would I find in the shadows?

My eyes were immediately drawn to the main altar, the berth of the much venerated religious icon that the church is known for. Decorating the sanctuary is an ornate, Bernini inspired altarpiece which captured every bit of my attention trying to decipher and appreciate every gold detail. Though I did not notice it forthwith, my eyes soon settled upon a very small enameled icon of the Blessed Mother and the Child Jesus, enthroned within the particulars of the artistry. This was the icon that Santa Maria in Portico in Campitelli is known for!

Continuing my investigation of the church, I first glanced upward at the magnificent dome which enhances the main altar and then moved on to the many chapels that line each side of the church. The chapels on the left are that of the Altieri and Capizucchi families, each containing amazing works of art including marble altarpieces, vaulted frescoes, funeral monuments. The second chapel on the left has a notable altarpiece depicting the Glory of Blessed Leonardi whose relic is located here. Saint John Leonardi, lived from 1541 to 1609 and is buried within the church. He was a priest and founder of the Order that still ministers to the church to the present day.

There are chapels on the right displaying paintings and stuccos and a chapel of the relics which allows access to the sacristy containing a portable Byzantine altar with micromosaic images of the Redeemer, the Virgin and St. John the Evangelist.

Other notable features include a Baptistery with two fifteenth century tabernacles, a ciborium and holy oils, monuments to Cardinal Nardi and Cardinal Bartolomeo Pacca and a splendid gold Baroque organ in the gallery.

Though the entire space is not an immense one, I thought that it offered a sense of elegance, a rich history and especially during the darkened evening hours, an air of secrecy. As I investigated each nook and cranny, I eagerly pondered what I would find and reveled in every treasure.

If your itinerary finds you in Rome’s Jewish Quarter, take a few minutes to lay your eyes upon the famous icon displayed above the altar and ask for protection from the Our Lady of Campitelli.

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Santa Maria in Portico in Campitelli

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