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Seeking out adventure in Italy is easy.
So, while in Rome, when a friend asked me to rent a car and drive to some nearby cities, I was tempted. Very tempted.
Problem was, I had promised my cousin that I would seek out some special rosaries in Vatican City that he had asked me to purchase!
What to do? What to do?
Always striving to keep my promises and pleased to have such an important errand for the day, I headed out into the beautiful afternoon in search of the religious treasures he was seeking. After many religious shops and several texts, I finally found what he was requesting, made the purchases and then walked out past St. Peter’s Basilica.
Not really having a plan for the rest of the afternoon, of which I still had much time, I headed toward the Tiber River and walked southeast, soaking up the warm sun, which was casting its brilliant rays on the swift moving waters. As I neared Tiber Island, I decided to take a left away from my original trek, not really sure where my path was leading.
Striding up the Via del Portico d’Ottavia an area of the city I had never transited, I encountered a large tour group standing in front of the facade of a lofty ruined structure. Not sure what I was viewing, I made my way down the ramp to study the signage and learned that what I was standing in front of was the Portico of Octavia, an ancient structure built by Augustus in the name of his sister, Octavia Minor after 27 BC. The structure was used as a fish market until the end of the 19th century and the colonnaded walks enclosed the temples of Jupiter Stator and Juno Regina as well as a library.
The church of Sant’Angelo in Pescheria is built into the ruins and as I made my way across the walkway, I entered this religious temple.
Famous for the ruined portico as its narthex, the church was originally dedicated to St. Paul and then later, St. Michael. Rebuilt during the Middle ages, the church was used as the headquarters for the Confraternity of Fishmongers. A reconstruction on the right hand aisle, for their use, resulted in the Chapel of St. Andrew, the patron saint of fisherman. Interestingly enough, the fishmongers became dissatisfied with their small chapel and built their own church next door, Sant’Andrea dei Pescivendoli, which is now deconsecrated. The chapel is one of the treasures of the church and decorated in gilded stucco and frescoed panels. The panels on the ceiling show events in the life of St. Andrew and fish are featured throughout. The panels flanking the altar, date back to 1598, and feature St. Francis of Assisi on the left and St. Francis of Rome on the right. You can also spot the Contrafraternity’s shield on the marble floor which features a deer, a pair of geese and a large sturgeon.
The left side aisle was once dedicated to Our Lady of Graces but is now graced by a modern crucifix decorated with a bronze sculpture. The altar contains an opening which allows a glimpse of the relics of the martyrs Cyrus and John of Alexandria which were brought from the church of Santa Passera in the 14th century. On the altar, you can also find the relics of the martyred Saint Symphorosa and her comanions.
As I turned to face the rear of the church, I was confronted with the gallery which houses the original organ installed in the 18th century. It is not in very good condition and therefore, unplayable.
The church now used by the Communita Maria, a Marian lay worshiping community, is often frequented by those visiting the ruins of the Portico. The front door is often not open, as it was on my visit, however, you can use the walkway to the left of the portico. This passes through to the Via Sant’Angelo in Pescheria, a dead-end street, where you can find the most commonly used entrance to the church on the right. This was the doorway that I exited and I made my way around to the front of the portico once again.
Heading down to the Via del Foro Pescario, I marveled at the ruins that littered the sides of the ancient street. On the right, I encountered the remains of the Temple of Apollo Medicus Sosianus, the Roman temple dedicated to Apollo, whose full name is derived from its final rebuilder, Gaius Sosianus. Some may recognize Sosianus as the person responsible for placing Herod on the throne of Jerusalem.
I gazed up at the only parts remaining of the temple, three columns that form the front right-hand corner of the temple, which was restored in 353 BC and 179 BC. The temple originally displayed six columns on the front, two at the side and seven more attached to the inner chamber wall. The chamber was once decorated with colored marbled and contained a large collection of marble statues, all relating to Apollo. Several relics from the temple can be seen in the Central Montemartini Museum.
Though I knew that I was near Palatine Hill and the Capitoline Museums, areas I was familiar with, I was struck that I had never encountered this little slice of history.
And as I turned to the right, my bearings were even more disconcerted.
The colosseum was here?
To be continued…
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Portico di Ottavia
- Address: Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 29, 00186 Rome
- Hours: Summer, 0900-1900, Winter, 0900-1800
- Admission: free
- Getting There: Bus, Teatro Marcello/Ara Coeli stop, Lines 30, 44, 51, 63, 81, 83, 85, 87, 118
Church of Sant’Angelo in Pescheria
- Address: Via della Tribuna di Campitelli, 00186 Rome
- Hours: unknown
- Admission: free
- Getting There: Bus, Teatro Marcello/Ara Coeli stop, Lines 30, 44, 51, 63, 81, 83, 85, 87, 118
Temple of Apollo Medicus Sosianus
- Address: Via del Teatro di Marcello, 42, 00186 Rome
- Hours: Summer, 0900-1900, Winter, 0900-1800
- Admission: free
- Getting There: Bus, Teatro Marcello/Ara Coeli stop, Lines 30, 44, 51, 63, 81, 83, 85, 87, 118