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The Roman Colosseum is a major landmark known throughout the world.
The Jewish Colosseum. Never heard of it…not as it is called and not by its actual name either.
For as many visits as I have had to Rome, this spectacular piece of architecture had never been on my radar, despite walking in the area many times.
The former monument once held 55,000 spectators and is visited by thousands of tourists and bordered by Arch of Constantine and the Roman Forum. It is one of the landmarks that most visitors to Rome aspire to visit, along with the Pantheon, the Vatican, the Trevi Fountain and the Roman Forum.
The Jewish Colosseum, or Theatre of Marcellus, a smaller colosseum, once held 13,000 spectators and is tucked away behind the Altare de Patria. Not many tourists actively seek it out, some merely stumbling upon it while walking a path from the Capitoline Hill area to the river.
Many, however, confuse the two.
Located in the Jewish Quarter of Rome, the Theatre of Marcellus is a bit of an impostor…well, only for those, not in the know! There are actually many differences!
Those of us who are familiar with the original, easily recognize the differences between the two, but it is easy to understand that many who are first-timers to Rome or see pictures of the theater may be easily confused.
The theater, erected in the 1st century BC, was originally conceived by Julius Caesar and then recommenced by Octavian Augustus after Caesar’s death. It was built on the remains of the ancient Circus Flaminius (221 BC) which was used as a marketplace and for assemblies and many porticoes and temples filled the area. At first glance, it appears to be quite similar to the Colosseum, with both being constructed with three floors of arcades, however, only the two-story fragment on the theater has survived the test of time and modern construction. Located in the Jewish Ghetto area of Rome, it has become known as the Jewish Colosseum.
As I walked along the Via del Foro Piscario, examining the Temple of Apollo Sosianus, it was surprising to see this lesser version of the structure that once hosted the mighty gladiator games.
It was impressive to see the Theatre of Marcellus at close range, however, the structure is not open to visitors and I had to be content to walk along its perimeter. As I made my way around the formation, however, I was bewildered to see that the arcades stopped abruptly. Instead of the characteristic network of arches, corridors, tunnels and ramps that form part of the structure, there were smooth walls and modern windows.
As I retraced my steps, to re-examine the facade, I began to notice the two-stories of arcades, not three. There were windows and a modern walls and windows topping the structure. Not at all like the Roman colosseum!
Of course, every city develops over time and some ancient monuments are destroyed or concealed when modernization occurs. The theater, which once hosted live performances, was reconstructed during the Middle Ages. The top tier of seating was removed and the residence of the Orsini was built atop the ruins during the 16th century.
What I was now seeing was the Palazzo Orsini and a series of apartments and behind the theater were more ruins next to the church of San Nicola in Carcere (added to my list of future churches to visit!).
Walking back to the open area and ascending the steps, I was rewarded with remarkable views of not only this impostor Colosseum, but the entire area of relics, including the Portico of Ottavia and the Temple of Apollo Sosianus.
How had I never know this existed?
I guess I am not alone, but more people should seek out this special area of Rome, rich in history and architecure.
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Teatro Marcello
- Address: Teatro di Marcello Street, 00186 Rome
- Hours: 24 hours, daily. Exterior view only.
- Admission: free
- Getting There: Bus, Teatro Marcello/Ara Coeli stop, Lines 30, 44, 51, 63, 81, 83, 85, 87, 118