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El Diario de Guatemala CINCO

DIA CINCO

When making plans for this trip, my original thought was to take Spanish lessons at one of the towns of Lake Atitlan.

But which one?

I didn’t know anything about the area except that I thought it would be wonderful to study Spanish in the mornings, looking out over the beautiful waters and the volcanoes that surround them, and spending the afternoons lounging in the sun and swimming.

Ultimately, I decided that because I knew the city of Antigua so well and that the schools here were plentiful, it would be a better place for me.

I did want to see Lake Atitlan though, so while I was here, I made plans for a visit. Two years ago, my son and I had inquired about a tour, however, we were informed that it was a very long day, leaving early in the morning and returning in the evening. There were so many things on that trip that we wanted to see and do in the city of Antigua that we decided to forgo that idea.

Conveniently, this time, a tour agency was right next-door to my Airbnb. After lunch a few days ago, I wandered in and booked my tour. Although there was an option to spend the night, I decided that since my accommodations were already booked and paid for in Antigua, I would suffer through the long day. It was all set.

So at 5:30 in the morning, I was standing in front of my apartment, in the dark, waiting for my pick up not knowing if it was a van, a bus or lord knows, a motorcycle (anyone remember Vietnam?). There were eight of us in the van and we headed outside of the city. I assumed that we were all going on the same tour yet after a while, it became apparent that some of this group was heading to Mexico. Wondering how this was all going to pan out, we suddenly had to pull over on the side of the highway when one of the girls started to feel carsick and had a full-blown panic attack. My flight attendant training kicked in and I helped her to calm down and breathe. It took some doing but we finally got her back into the van and this was when I found out who was heading to Mexico…yes, she was one of those making a run for the border! If she couldn’t make a 2-hour van ride, how the heck was she going to make it to Mexico?

Well, it wasn’t my problem anymore after we made the drop off. There were three of us going on the tour and I was quite relieved for the small number, including two brothers from Fort Collins, Colorado.

We were dropped off in the middle of the town of Panajachel and told that our guide would meet us in half an hour. I took this time to walk around and explore a bit. The vendors were all beginning to set up and as I got to the lakefront, I had the most magnificent vista all to myself!

*View of Lake Atitlan from* *Panajachel*

*Views of Lake Atitlan from* *Panajachel*

At nine o’clock on the dot, we met our guide, Nicolas, and boarded a boat bound for the opposite end of the lake. The water was so calm, it shown like glass reflecting the four volcanoes that surround the lake.

After a twenty-minute ride, we arrived at the town of San Juan de Laguna. It was an uphill climb into the town and along the way, we stopped at chocolate and weaving demonstrations and a beekeeping farm. It was fascinating to see the tiny Mayan bees and sample some of their tasty honey. It was also interesting to see how the locals were spending their Saturday and the preparations for a local carnival.

*San Juan de Laguna* *Chocolate Factory*

*San Juan de Laguna* *Weaving and Fabric Demonstration*

Our next stop was San Pedro de Laguna. Described to us by our guide as a “hippie town”, we made the trek to the colorful church and the local market, witnessing the beautiful murals that graced the walls of businesses and homes. The largest of the three towns, it was full of activity.

Our third stop was Nicolas’ hometown, Santiago. After a typical lunch, we met a lady who posed for us and demonstrated how she dons the cultural headdress that she is known for. Walking through the large market, each of us made different purchases…clothes, paintings, coffee. If you want to shop, this is the place!

Jumping back into the boat, we found the weather to be quite different than during the morning. Dark clouds were moving in obscuring the volcanoes and we encountered rough waters as we made our way across the lake. When we finally arrived in Panajachel, it was nearing the time to meet our van for the long trip back to Antigua.

Needless to say, that night when I arrived back at my apartment, I had no energy for anything other than a quick dinner and bed.

As tired as I was though, it was worth every moment. It was a day filled with adventure, education, culture, new friends, a lake and a volcano or two. What more could anyone ask for?

What I learned: 10-hour bus rides are no fun if you are prone to carsickness and panic attacks.

Photo of the day: Beautiful Lake Atitlan

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Lake Atitlan

https://www.atitlan.com

El Diario de Guatemala CUATRO

DIA CUATRO

Figuring out how to cook scrambled eggs in the microwave saved me about twenty minutes this morning. Why have I never figured this out before?

Because of my discovery, I was actually able to leisurely walk to school this morning.
I must admit, I wasn’t eager to begin my day in the classroom. I felt a bit frustrated even with the studying I had done the night before. But I was here to learn and I was going to try my hardest!

The school day began very well and I had some “Aha!” moments when I understood some forms of the verbs I was studying. I felt like I was finally getting somewhere! After my break, I returned to the table with my teacher. Like yesterday, I felt like we lost a bit of steam. On this day, I think she misinterpreted some things I told her and I began to feel like she was getting frustrated with me which, in turn, was making me frustrated. Next thing you know, she had me playing Scrabble in Spanish. Now, I suck at Scrabble in English and I pulled some bad tiles. I couldn’t even make words in English, much less in Spanish and she made me play for an hour until class was finished. Enough said.

Maybe this wasn’t the best fit after all. She was a lovely person and I enjoyed our interactions, but I was distracted by the other student and I noticed that she was spending a lot of time listening to his lesson.

During lunchtime in my apartment, I glanced out of my window at the door across the street.

Academia de Antiguena. This had been my second choice of schools.
Putting aside my quesadillas, I walked over and rang the bell. Speaking with the director, I explained my situation, was given a tour of both facilities and offered one of only two spots available for the following week.

Maybe I made the right decision…maybe not, but school is even closer, it’s a lot cheaper and has better facilities. I think that all of those are positives.

Once that was done, it was time to get my culture of the day. One of my favorite places I visited a couple of years ago was the Convento de Recoleccion. This convent and basilica were destroyed during the earthquake of 1773. The ceiling of the Basilica collapsed into the church, leaving the walls standing. Visitors are allowed to enter the remains of the basilica and make their way around the giant, boulder-like remains. It makes for some amazing photos! Connected to the basilica is the remains of the convent. It contains a few open courtyards flanked by many rooms. With not so many visitors in the city, I had the place to myself…what a peaceful afternoon!

What I learned today: Volcano Fuego is erupting nearby and there was an earthquake last Sunday. Sometimes the universe wants you to “shake it up”.

Photo of the day: Convento de Recoleccion

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Convento de Recoleccion

Address: 1a Calle Poniente and Avenida de la Recoleccion
Hours: 0900-1700
Admission: Adults, foreign, 40Q (about 5.50 USD)

El Diario de Guatemala DOS

DIA DOS

Eyes open early…it’s the first day of Spanish school in Antigua, Guatemala!

It has been many years since I have had a first day of school!

As I took to the streets, headed towards my first day of classes, it dawned on me that I had not had a proper breakfast. The little convenience store next to my hotel wasn’t open (or bored, see Day 1) until eight, so I figured I would just have to tough it out until lunchtime.

Walking along 5a Avenida Norte, I passed under the beautiful Santa Catalina Arch (I couldn’t help myself for taking this route) and cut through the park at Iglesia de La Merced. Glancing at my watch, I realized that I had more than a few minutes to spare and lo and behold, there was a little bakery just across the street from my school.

Two delicious mini ham and cheese croissants and a Diet Coke filled the void but I realized with all these tortillas and pan readily available, I might have to seriously exercise in the afternoons!

A few minutes prior to eight (I definitely did not want to be late on my first day), I quickly snapped a photo at the entrance…why did I feel like my children when I used to make them do their obligatory first day photo on our front porch? Should I have brought a sign for the occasion? First Day, Spanish School, Antigua, Guatemala, June 2021. The locals would surely have thought I was a bit loco!

It was time for my day to begin.

Greeted by the owner of the school, business was on the forefront, having to settle up for this week’s lessons and my transportation to Antigua. A short dark-haired woman in her thirties then appeared.

Heydi, my teacher.

Mi maestra.

The person who was going to help me gain fluency in Spanish and not make fun of me when I mispronounced words and phrases.

The Holy Grail!

Taking a seat at a table in the courtyard, I glanced around. This was definitely not what I had pictured for a classroom. It was very rustic…plastic tables and chairs, birds flying around and a motorcycle parked inside! Well, I wasn’t here for a spa day! All we needed was a place to learn and I could hear two other students and their instructors just around the corner.

Mucho gusto! De donde eres?

And that’s how it began. Heidy spoke slowly and clearly and I actually realized how much I already knew from my past year’s studies. I understood almost everything she asked me and was able to respond, with the occasional stumble, of course. Before I realized, it was time for our half hour break.

The beauty of Antigua is that there are countless churches, convents, monasteries and ruins throughout the city. While I had planned to visit a different place each afternoon, it dawned on me that I was just next door to the magnificent La Merced. If I wanted, I could wander over during my break and talk to God (and perhaps pray for fluency). Today, I just made it as far as the steps. I talked to my friend, Kathie, on the phone instead.

The last hour and a half passed quickly and I was bidding Heydi, “Hasta Manana”. This phrase that English speakers casually use takes on a whole new meaning when you really have to see the person the next morning. I was now committed!

After returning to my hotel, gathering my belongings and checking out, I headed back in the direction of La Merced, this time to check into my Airbnb.
While walking along the streets of Antigua, the sidewalks are lined with colorful walls, marked with the occasional window, heavy wooden door, shop and restaurant.

I am always intrigued by what lies behind these walls…usually quaint courtyards and immaculate homes. After being greeted by Esperanza, the caretaker, what I was expecting was exactly what I found. A stone corridor, decorated with seating and Guatemalan artwork led to a small, grassy, art-filled courtyard. My unit was the first one we came to and as I walked in, I realized it was exactly as I had seen it pictured. An airy kitchen was on the first floor and a spiral staircase on the right, led me upstairs to my bedroom and sitting area.

While I was intrigued with the spiral staircase, it dawned on me that getting my suitcases up to the bedroom was going be a bit of a challenge! Definitely one step at a time!

It didn’t take long to unpack and make a quick grocery list.

Heading out, I realized that I my route was going to take me next to the ruins of San Jeronimo church. While planning my trip, I had decided early on that my afternoons would be spent in the city seeing the many sights. Why not begin today? The groceries could wait while I indulged in Guatemalan culture.

The site of San Jeronimo is not a large one, but one I had remembered fondly from my first visit. I wandered through each room and the courtyard, reveling in the knowledge that I did not have to rush. I could take my time and see and photograph things here and each afternoon, making the most of my time. Heck, I could even come back…what a novel idea!

Finally, I walked up the tree lined street toward La Bodegona, the supermarket. Paper towels, toilet paper, water, beer, diet cola…these were easy. But what could I buy for lunch or the occasional dinner? Trying to make these decisions was a bit tough when you are not familiar with some of the products. Eventually, I settled on eggs, tortillas, cheese, tomatoes and chips. Basic. Breakfast and lunch I could handle, dinner would be at one of the countless restaurants in the city!
Finally home and exhausted, I put my goods away and plopped down on the couch. Yes, it was going to be a Netflix and pizza kind of night!

What I learned: My waist is going to expand with all of these croissants and tortillas!

Photo of the day: Lilies of San Jeronimo

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San Jeronimo Church

Address: Corner of 1a Calle Poniente and Alameda de Santa Lucia, Antigua, Guatemala
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: 40Q (about $5.50 US)

El Diario de Guatemala UNO

EL DIA UNO

As I left home this morning, I was thinking that I was crazy for thinking that going to school in another country to learn another language at my age was a good idea. To say the least, I was extremely nervous. Although I had been to Guatemala on vacation with my son a couple of years ago and I felt very comfortable there, there are so many things that go through your mind.

What if I did not like the school or my teacher? What if I did not like being there for more than a few days? What if I got sick while I was on my own?

Nevertheless, I have learned over the years that I need to put myself into uncomfortable situations. In the end, it all works out and I’ll tell anyone who will listen about my wonderful experiences!

So, I made my way through security and to my gate in Richmond trying not to think about anything other than getting there. After landing in Atlanta, I boarded my flight to Guatemala City, arriving 3 1/2 hours later. The airport was nowhere near as crowded as was the first time we visited. I would imagine that this is due to Covid restrictions and people not traveling as much as they have in the past. Clearing customs and immigration, it then took me only a couple of minutes to find my driver and we were soon on our way to Antigua.

Although I have studied a great deal over the past year, it’s quite difficult to sit in a car for an hour and try to make conversation with someone who is fluent in the language you aren’t completely familiar with. Realizing that I needed a bit of help, I turned on my phone and utilized my translation app and I think Senor Sergio really appreciated my efforts! Before long, I recognized the entrance to the beautiful city that was to be my home for the next two weeks and I was being dropped off at my hotel.

After settling in, I headed out to the cobblestone streets searching for a restaurant for my lunch. Devouring a Caprese panini and fries I realized that it actually was much later for me with the time difference and I probably wouldn’t be very hungry later. I then continued on Avenida 5a Norte and passed thru the Santa Catalina Arch. Spotting Iglesia de La Merced, one of Antigua’s famed churches up ahead, I began to look for my school which was located nearby. Discovering the doorway and entrance, I breathed a sigh of relief knowing that I wouldn’t have to spend precious time in the morning locating it. The second thing on my agenda was finding the place that was to be my home starting the next day. That didn’t take very long either as my Airbnb was located only a block away…talk about picking the right location!!!

I was so excited to be back in the city and wanted to stop and see everything that I remembered, however I decided to head back to my hotel to use the pool since the sun was trying to sneak a peek out of the cloudy skies…rainy season, you know.

A little colder than I expected, I didn’t last very long and headed back into my room for a much-needed nap. I was exhausted but freshened up and headed to a restaurant that my son and I had enjoyed on a couple of occasions. A few beers and some fish tacos and I was finally ready to get some sleep so that I would be ready for my first day of school!

What I learned today: Know the correct verb…asking the convenience store owner what time the shop is bored in the morning is quite confusing, however quite comical! Abburido and abierto are two very different words!!! Truly a mistake I will never make again!

Picture of the day: Hello Antigua!

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Casa del Parque Hotel

https://www.hotelcasadelparque.com/
Address: 4th Ave North #5, Antigua, Guatemala, 03001

Santa Catalina Arch

Address: 5a Avenida Norte 28, Antigua, Guatemala

The Hall and the Fossils

Many years ago, while some work was being completed on our house, the electrician, noting my three very active boys, offered up a recommendation.

No, it’s not what you’re thinking…not chandeliers or track lighting…

He suggested that I take my boys fossil hunting!

Yes, fossil hunting!

Having a boy of his own, he was fully aware of the challenges of finding things to keep children occupied. Describing a place that he often took his son, he detailed all of the shark teeth and fossilized items they found on their visits. About an hour and a half away, located on the Potomac River in the northern neck of Virginia, he chronicled the property as the former home of Confederate Robert E. Lee, an historic estate open to visitors, although it was the area at the rear of the property, along the waterway that he wanted us to experience.

A few days later, I loaded the boys in the car and made that trip. We found dozens of ancient shark teeth, buried in the sandy banks, in that particular location and also in nearby Westmoreland State Park. Merely gazing at Lee’s former home as we drove by, I never gave the thought of visiting the stately manor much credence.

Years passed and the bags of shark teeth sat in a container on my kitchen countertop. As the restrictions from Covid lingered, I found myself away from work and desperately searching for things to occupy myself and fulfill my wanderlust desires. While cleaning the kitchen one day, I came upon one of those bags and thought about that sunny, fall day when we dug in the sand and carefully sifted it in hopes of discovering some ancient treasures. I remembered passing the Lee estate and decided to do an internet search to see if it was open to visitors. Certainly, I could stand to feel like a tourist again and maybe even do a little sand sifting!

On a mid-January day, my husband and I headed out to Montross, Virginia. Unseasonably warm and sunny, it was the perfect day to go sight-seeing. Upon our arrival, we ventured into the Visitor’s Center, paid our admission, collected our audio guide and wandered through the adjacent exhibit which gave an overview of the historical significance of the site as well its timeline.

Leaving the center, we then made our way down a long walkway toward the “Great House”.

Built by Thomas Lee in 1738, this plantation remained in the Lee family for four generations that helped to define our nation. While most people are aware that Thomas Jefferson penned the Declaration of Independence, many don’t know the names of the signers, aside from Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, John Adams and John Hancock. In fact, Richard Henry Lee and Francis Lightfoot Lee, both born at Stratford Hall, were two of fifty-six endorsers during 1776.

Years later, the birth of Robert Edward Lee, in 1807, was documented in the plantation journals. This young man called Stratford Hall his home until leaving to serve as General-in-Chief of the Confederate States Army during the American Civil War from 1861 until 1865.

Designated as a National Historic Landmark in 1960, the property is under the care of the National Park Service and the United States Department of the Interior. The grounds are impeccably kept and the home is proportionately constructed and in exemplary condition.

We first made our way through both levels of the Great House, examining the period furniture, original colonial pine floors, brick masonry and oil paintings. The home is elegantly furnished and exhibits the wealth of the Lee family during the time.

Heading outside, we analyzed the home’s meritorious brick exterior, acknowledging the skillful craftsmanship, before taking to task the other structures located on the 2,000 acre property…the Overseer’s work place, the Payne cabin (home of the enslaved Payne family and the grave marker of “Uncle Wes” William Westley Payne), the spring house, the gardens, the northeast out-building, the gardener’s cottage, the burial vault, the smokehouse, the kitchen, the slave quarters, the southwest out-building and the coach house and stables. The property is vast, including marked nature trails, so allow a few hours see everything.

*The Grave of “Uncle Wes” William Westley Payne*

Since we still had a bit of time remaining before the winter sun slide beyond the horizon, we headed down to the beach area. Before we ditched our shoes for our coastal explorations, we investigated the grist mill with its paddle wheel and the lake.

Finally, it was time to see if I would have any luck with our specimen search. We had the beach to ourselves and we thoroughly combed the area and dug through the sand as much as my cold fingers could stand.

Nothing.

Oh well, maybe I just don’t have the patience that I used to.

Leaving empty-handed, we made a quick stop at the slave cemetery. Sadly, we did not even have some shells to leave on the marker in remembrance of those who served the Lee family faithfully.

Although it was the perfect day for sightseeing, obviously it wasn’t the perfect day for fossil hunting.

The boys will simply have to join me next time!

Stratford Hall

https://www.stratfordhall.org/
Address: 483 Great House Rd, Stratford, Virginia 22558-0001
Hours: 1000-1700, Wednesday through Sunday. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Admission: Adults (ages 14+), $12.00, Children (ages 6-13), $5.00, Children (under 5), free. Grounds Pass (access to the hiking trails, public beach area, gardens, public grounds, Visitor Center, and Gift Shop only), Adults, $8.00, Children, $5.00.

Charming Cabo

Cancun? Yes. Cozumel? Yes. Puerto Vallarta? Yes.

Los Cabos? No.

When the opportunity presented itself to spend a little time in Los Cabos, my first, I decided that it would be nice see the differences between these Mexican cities.

During our long drive to the hotel, I noticed that the scenery was certainly different. Dry and arid, the landscape offered little in the way of buildings or any other sights until we passed through the town of San Jose del Cabo, filled with colorful homes and businesses.

Crossing the bridge over the estuary, we began to spy larger properties lining the coast and more greenery. Our hotel, the J.W. Marriott, was one of the nicest I have ever stayed in. The rooms were beautiful and the grounds, impeccable. During our first afternoon, we spent time hanging in the countless pools that cascaded down the hillside, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. As we swam and waded near the pool bar, we enjoyed our drinks, the music and the occasional crash of the giant waves below.

A little dismayed that we were not walking distance to shopping or restaurants, we were able to secure a short Uber ride into nearby San Jose del Cabo, the town we had passed through on our way to the hotel. Dropped off in the center, near the town square, we marveled at the well-lit streets filled with galleries, shops, restaurants and colonial architecture. It truly was one of the most charming Mexican towns I had ever been to!

Colorful flags fluttered overhead as we approached Plaza Mijares. Here the town’s residents gathered on the Saturday night to visit near the gazebo and listen to music being performed on the stage. It was a lively affair, but the thing that caught my attention was Mission San Jose del Cabo Anuiti, the Catholic church keeping watch over the festivities from its perch on the high steps. With its origins dating back to 1730, the church is dedicated to St. Joseph and is the center of the community.

After a few quick photos with the San Jose del Cabo sign in front of the church, we decided to take a quick look inside. The church was bright and airy, narrow with high ceilings, but sadly in need of some repair. Not wanting to interrupt the parishioners in prayer, we stood at the rear and snapped a couple of quick photos.

Since we were in search of our dinner we continued on, occasionally ducking into the one of the countless galleries and courtyards filled with sculpture and cute shops stocked with intricately crafted souvenirs. Venturing away from the busier food joints, we finally found a quaint eatery filled with locals. I always say, “eat where the locals eat” and I can assert that we were not disappointed! After some amazing tacos, we decided to call it a night and head back to our home away from home.

The next morning, I awoke early and decided to spend a bit of time exploring the grounds of our wondrous hotel. Courtyards boasted sculpture and indigenous flowers and plants. The walkways were lined with color, the blossoms still wet with the morning’s dew. As I made my way back down to the lowest level, where we had spent time the day before, I skirted the chairs and umbrellas which awaited the sun-seeking guests and headed down the wooden staircase to the beach. Enjoying the warm sands between my toes, I made my way southward. The roar of the crashing waves that we heard the day before, was more intimidating in person and I noted that there were no beach chairs here. I wondered if that was due to Covid or just as a deterrent by the hotel to keep people off of the beach and out of the powerful current.

I pondered this as I continued my stroll skirting the rocks and tide pools. Why would someone travel all this way to stay at a beach resort where they could not use the beach? The ocean was beautiful to look out upon and the hotel’s cascading infinity pools were spectacular and refreshing, but couldn’t you enjoy an amazing pool elsewhere? Like, say Vegas? As a beach lover, I was a little perplexed and as I gazed up and down the beach, I rarely saw a soul.

Finishing my waterfront walk, I headed back up the hillside to the hotel grounds. It was getting close to the time to pack up and prepare to make my way back to the airport for my flight.

As I spoke to a fellow passenger on my flight, I was asked how I had enjoyed my trip to Los Cabos. Would I go back for a longer stay?

While I had enjoyed my visit, my answer was a convoluted one. Personally, I would love to go back to see more of San Jose del Cabo and maybe stay in one of the hotels in the nearby hotel zone…if and only if…I learned that the beaches were usable. My hotel was beautiful but left me wanting more. I think that those desiring privacy and luxury would love the J.W. Marriott, but I don’t think it would be my choice for more than a couple of nights.

How did Los Cabos compare to other Mexican cities that I visited in the past? It was a lovely place that I think that I would return to one day, however, the turquoise waters of Cancun and Cozumel are more of a draw for the things I enjoy.

With over two million visitors per year, Los Cabos is attractive to many and worth a look whether it be a short stay or long. I think the strength of the attraction is what someone is searching for…be it privacy, partying, sightseeing, golf or deep-sea fishing…definitely its allure is in the eye of the beholder.

I guess I was eyeing something not necessarily better, just a little bit different.

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J.W. Marriott

https://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/sjdjw-jw-marriott-los-cabos-beach-resort-and-spa/
Address: Fraccion Hotelera Fh5-C1, Subdelegacion de la Play, San Jose del Cabo, 23403, Mexico

Mission San Jose del Cabo Anuiti

http://www.oldcabo.com/san-jose-del-cabo-anuiti/
Address: Miguel Hidalgo S/N, Gallery District, Centro, 23400 San Jose del Cabo, B.C.S., Mexico
Hours: Monday thru Saturday, 0900-2000, Sunday, 0900-1700
Admission: free

The Architecture of St. Augustine

Many worldwide cities have their own style of architecture that sets them apart. You know what I mean…when you look at a photo, you can say “I recognize that place”.

While St. Augustine doesn’t entirely have one distinct look per se, although many of Henry Flagler’s creations appear similar, it definitely has a some of the oldest buildings and most historic buildings in the continental United States. It has a classic and picturesque look with many styles from different eras…Spanish Colonial, Spanish Renaissance Revival, Moorish, Neoclassical, Queen Anne, Second Renaissance Revival, Vernacular. It’s residences, churches and businesses are not overshadowed by skyscrapers and the city has enforced building codes to preserve the periods of architecture throughout the area.

Many people opt to take a trolley tour through the city, jumping off at many of the attractions and landmarks. This covers many historical edifices, however, when traveling by foot, you will encounter so much more some hidden away on mossy tree-lined streets. As I hoofed it through the city, I was amazed at the number of historical markers describing past and present buildings as well as other important events. I love history and this further reinforced what an amazing and rich place St. Augustine is!

Here’s a few to look out for:

The Governor’s House. Located on the Plaza de la Constitution, this building dates back to 1598 and has been home to several government offices. Today it operates as a museum and houses exhibits in the main lobby which highlights the city’s history.

Spanish Dragoon Barracks. The two-story coquina shingled roof structure was erected on the site of another current building. The building housed the barracks for the Spanish Dragoon’s but was razed in 1822. Today a memorial plaque stands on the site.

Pena-Peck House. The Pena-Peck House now operates as a Historic Museum. Built in 1750, the house is a fabulous example of the meshing of three distinct styles, First Spanish, Territorial and British, thereby making it larger than many of its neighbors. The structure also operates as The Woman’s Exchange carrying unique works of art, fashion and home decor and is a much sought-after wedding venue.

Dr. Peck House. Dating back to 1750, this house served as the home of the Royal Treasurer and later, the Governor.

Tovar House and Gonzalez-Alvarez House. Together, these two houses comprise the Oldest House Museum Complex with the Tovar House taking the prize for the city’s Oldest House. Located on St. Francis Street, these structures are on the Old Town Trolley tour (Stop #16) and open to the public. Dating back to the 1700s, these two homes have a rich history and have been occupied by many over the years…the living and some say the “dead”. Reports of a shadowy male figure, strange lights and moving objects attract those not only interested in the buildings’ historical status!

St. Francis Barracks. Once part of a Franciscan Chapel, this building housed the British Military from 1763-1783, the Spanish from 1783-1821 and then the United States. Today, the barracks and military reservation house the Headquarters of the Military Department of the State of Florida and the Headquarters of the National Guard.

St. Augustine Visitor Information Center. While the building itself is a new construction, I beg you to stop by and check out the Old Spanish Trail Zero Milestone on the center’s grounds as well as Fuente de Los Canos de San Francisco. The Old Spanish Trail was opened in 1929 and was constructed to provide a continuous highway route from Florida to California and its name pays homage Spanish heritage and missions of the southwest and the south. Nearby, the set of masks that decorate the fountain was gifted to St. Augustine by the City of Aviles, the birthplace of Pedro Melendez, St. Augustine’s founder. They are reproductions of the six faces that serve as waterspouts for the municipal fountain in the San Francisco neighborhood of Aviles. Also, out the lovely clock near the Visitor’s Center parking garage.

Water Wheel at Mill Top Tavern. The working water wheel is a 19th century grist mill driven by a well at the bottom of the wheel pumped to drive the wheel. Quite the unexpected piece of equipment as you venture into this little plaza…worth a look-see or an outdoor meal nearby to watch it work its magic.

The Salcedo House. On this site stands the former home of Jorge Biassou, the nation’s first black general in 1796. Biassou was one of the original leaders of the slave uprising in Haiti and for his service to the Spanish against the French, he became a Spanish General and Florida’s second highest paid official.

Ximenez- Fatio House. Built in 1798 for use as a general store, tavern and family home. Later in operated as a boarding house to provide lodging for fortis earliest tourists. Today the house operates as a lifestyle museum highlighting the history and heritage of Florida.

There are so many more buildings to discover in St. Augustine, some of which I’ve previously covered in my blog. Put on your sneakers and get ready to do a lot of walking and a lot of exploring!

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Governor’s House

Address: 48 King Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
Hours: Monday thru Saturday, 1000-1700, Sunday, 1300-1700. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
Admission: General Admission, free. Donations accepted.

Spanish Dragoon Barracks

Address: Cordova Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
Hours: none, marker can be read from sidewalk.
Admission: Not open to the public

Pena-Peck House

Address: 143 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
Hours: Friday and Saturday, 1100-1600
Admission: free, donations accepted

Dr. Peck House

Address: St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
Hours: none, marker can be read from sidewalk.
Admission: Not open to the public

Tovar House

Address: 14 and 22 St. Francis Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
Hours: 1000-1700, daily. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
Admission: Adults, $8.00, Seniors (55+), $7.00, Students (valid id), $4.00, Children (ages 0-6), free, Military (valid id), $7.00

Old Spanish Trail Zero Milestone, Fuente de Los Canos de San Francisco, St. Augustine Visitor Center

Address: 10 S. Castillo Drive, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
Hours: Visitor Center, 0830-1730, daily. Grounds, 24 hours, daily.
Admission: free

Water Wheel at Mill Top Tavern

Address: 19 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Salcedo House

Address: 42 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
Hours: none, marker can be read from sidewalk.
Admission: Not open to the public

Ximenez- Fatio House

Address: 20 Aviles Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
Hours: Monday thru Saturday, 1000-1700
Admission: By tour, Adults, $10.00, Students/Seniors/Active Military/First Responders/Educators, $8.00, Saint John’s County Residents, $5.00

Lighthouse, Nighthouse

For a few days, while visiting St. Augustine, I had spied the St. Augustine Lighthouse across the waters of the Matanzas Bay.

Its red, black and white eye-catching color-scheme was hard to miss and I continually vowed that I would make my way over the Bridge of Lions to Anastasia Island for a closer look.

Finally, I patiently waited for a boat to pass through the raised bridge, glancing at the clock to make sure I had enough time to see the lighthouse, its grounds and the museum. Arriving later in the afternoon, I paid my admission in the gift shop and headed out back to the densely grown landscape and followed the path toward the towering beacon.

Built between 1871 and 1874, the lighthouse not only has a colorful body, but a colorful past. Steering numerous vessels to safety along Florida’s coastal waters, the current structure was preceded by another, which eventually fell into ruin. The new tower was put into service with a new first order Fresnel lens and lit for the first time in October 1874 by its first keeper, William Russell. Its lens, handblown in Paris, stood nine feet tall.

For twenty years, the lighthouse was kept by William A. Harn, a Union war hero, who had fought during the Battle of Gettysburg. He and his wife lived in a Victorian style keeper’s house, along with their six daughters. During 1885, the lamp was converted to kerosene and felt the Charleston earthquake in 1886, with its tower swaying violently. It served as a lookout post during World War II and was eventually modernized when plumbing was installed in 1907 and electricity in 1925. Only ten years later, it was the last lighthouse in Florida to be electrified and was fully automated in 1955. Today, the light continues to burn as a private aid for navigation.

Entering the structure and admiring the initial exhibits, I then made my way up the 219 steps to the top of the lighthouse, examining the information on each level and appreciating the effort someone had made to remind me of how many more steps my weary feet had to climb.

Finally, I made it!

At one hundred and sixty-five feet above sea level, I gazed out at the spectacular views of the city of St. Augustine, Anastasia Island and the ocean. It was breezy but a beautiful, clear day and I was amazed with how far down the coast I could see.

Eventually, I made my way down the winding staircase and headed out to see what other exhibits were offered by the Lighthouse and Maritime Museum.

My next stop was at the Keepers’ House. In this building, I learned about life at the Light Station and studied the furnishing and remnants of the families that once resided there. Out front, I admired the memorial to the Crew of the United States Coast Guard E-2C Radar Surveillance Aircraft Number 3501. Other buildings on the premises included a 1941 U.S. Coast Guard barracks and a 1936 garage that was home to a jeep repair facility during World War II. The site is also a National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration weather station. Another stop demonstrated the art of boat making and you can see the First Order Fresnel lens. The best part of the grounds, however, was that you could incorporate sightseeing with a bit of exercise with numerous trails leading through the dense overgrowth that also offered different views of the lighthouse.

Behind the Scenes tours are offered every day, from 1100 to 1500, on the hour, and offer visitors insight into the role that the Light Station has played in St. Augustine’s history and provides a glimpse into the preservation and research work that goes on at the Museum. Thousands of volunteer hours provide what is needed to keep this historic structure up and running and available to visitors and locals alike.

What I thought most fascinating, however, is that the location of the lighthouse has been subject of many ghost stories and supernatural legends. Visitors and volunteers have experienced a great deal of paranormal activity throughout the site and it has attracted the attention of televisions’ Ghost Hunters, My Ghost Story and Most Terrifying Places in America which have featured the lighthouse on their series. For those interested in this type of phenomena, the St. Augustine Lighthouse & Maritime Museum offers tickets for a number of “Dark of the Moon” ghost tours and ghost-themed private events to the public.

As much as I loved my visit in the light of day, I think that the lighthouse during the hours of night might be an extremely interesting and possibly terrifying thing to do!

Who knows who you might meet? The ghosts of past keepers, WWII soldiers or even Floridian explorers? No telling, but in this case, I think you would you have to refer to this Lighthouse as a Nighthouse!

Regardless, this is a must-see in St. Augustine!

St. Augustine Lighthouse and Maritime Museum

https://www.staugustinelighthouse.org/
Address: 100 Red Cox Drive, St. Augustine, Florida 32080-5443
Hours: 0900-1800, daily. Closed Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day.
Admission: Adults, $14.95, Seniors (ages 60+), $12.95, Children (ages 12 or under), $12.95

King’s Castle

While visitor’s may be aware of the connection of two of King Streets most famous landmarks, Flagler College and The Lightner Museum, many may not know that these came to fruition because of the Villa Zorayda.

Villa Zorayda, an architectural masterpiece, was built by Franklin Smith in 1883, in the Moorish style of the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Spain. When Henry Flagler, millionaire American industrialist, founder of Standard Oil and the Florida East Coast Railway, arrived in St. Augustine in 1883 with his new wife, they found the hotel facilities and transportation systems to be inadequate. Flagler, intrigued by the stunning Villa Zorayda, offered to buy it for his honeymoon but was turned down by the owner, Franklin W. Smith. Flagler then went on to build his own architectural masterpieces on King Street.

Villa Zorayda, also known as Zorayda Castle, was Smith’s winter home and housed his extensive art and antique collection. Over the years, it was utilized as a restaurant, a nightclub, a gambling casino and a hotel. After renovations in 2003, it was reopened to the public in 2008 as a museum.

My first encounter with the architectural marvel was while riding the Old Town Trolley. As we drove through the parking lot to drop off some riders, I was intrigued with the beautiful style, but it wasn’t until the next day when I had a bit of time on my hands to hot foot it over for a quick look-see.

Of course, as I entered, I was met with my least favorite phrase, “Photography Not Permitted”. Argh! Still, I paid my admission, put on my audio guide headphones and started my tour in the small study.

Whoa! This place was amazing! Had I stepped into a middle eastern palace? It sure looked like it!

The trim, the gold detailing, the gorgeous hand-painted tiles! And this was just in the first room, the Prayer Room. Each of the rooms were similarly styled and filled with Franklin Smith’s art and antique collection, now owned by Abraham Mussallem, an authority on oriental rugs and Egyptian artifacts who also purchased the villa in 1913.

The highlight of the villa is the central two-story center court which can be gazed upon from both levels. Rooms surrounding this courtyard are similarly decorated and are bedecked with alabaster and plaster reliefs, replicas of the walls of the Alhambra Palace. “There is no conqueror but God” is reproduced in the tracery of the Alhambra and is inscribed in Arabic script above the front entrance. Filling the space are hand painted wood panels, intricately designed doorways and geometrically shaped windows and colorful stained glass. There are Middle Eastern brass lamps, Oriental rugs, sculptures, carved furniture and Egyptian artifacts throughout. The most curious piece of the collection, however, is the Sacred Cat Rug made from the hairs of ancient cats that roamed the Nile River and is over 2400 years old.

It was awe-inspiring to wander from room to room studying each piece of the collection, including items from its gaming and club days. My favorite room, however, was on the second floor…the Harem Room. More of a small porch, it had a small star-shaped window to peek into the room and decorated with blue and white tiles and ornamentation. An exquisite wooden swing hung in the entry area to this room and I was tempted to take a quick ride…

I did not, of course, but you know what I did do?

I snuck a few pictures…okay more than a few…since the woman manning the front desk wasn’t too worried about interacting with the customers…even when paying…much less watching to see if we were disobeying instructions!

In all, my visit lasted about forty-five minutes, but was worth the exploration of this unique property and its furnishings. If you are visiting St. Augustine and making your way down King Street to witness the unique stunning structures that are Flagler College and the Lightner Museum, take a bit of time to stop in and check out the Castle of King Street, Villa Zorayda.

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Villa Zorayda

https://villazorayda.com/
Address: 83 King Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 1000-1700, Sunday 1100-1600. Closed Easter, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
Admission: Adults (ages 13-59), $12.00, Children (ages 7-12), $5.00, Seniors (ages 60 and over), $11.00.
Parking: Free parking for one vehicle while visiting the museum.

Just Like the Caribbean

Of all the things to love about St. Augustine, there is one that stands out.

Castillo de San Marcos.

I love visiting forts and have been to many throughout the world. What stands out to me about this particular one, however, is that even though it is poised on American soil, as you gaze upon its coquina walls, you can’t help but feel like you’ve been transported to the Caribbean.

Sitting on the shores of Matanzas Bay, the Castillo San Marcos National Monument was built over 340 years ago by the Spanish to protect the sea routes and the city. Builders were brought from Havana and workers retrieved the soft coquina stone from Anastasia island to construct the 26 foot high star-shaped walls over the course of twenty-three years.

Over time, the Castillo de San Marcos underwent many changes including the raising of its walls an additional six feet and the transference of ownership multiple times. While the Spanish instituted its construction, occupation was later transferred by treaty to the British and renamed St. Marks. The Spanish regained the fort in 1784 and changed the name back to its original moniker. In 1821, Spain sold the property to the United States, which renamed it Fort Marion (after Francis Marion) and appropriated it for use by the United States Army until 1899. In 1861, Florida, which had joined the Confederate States of America, gave the fort to the Confederates however, during the following year, the fort was taken by the Union. During this time, storerooms were converted to prison cells and Native Americans (among them Chief Osceola) were held captive in the fort as well as prisoners during the Spanish-American War in 1898. A year later, the fort was discontinued as a military base and named a national monument in 1900 with its original name being restored in 1942.

Over its illustrious history, Castillo de San Marcos has flown six different flags and today remains the oldest and largest masonry fortress within the continental United States. Definitely something to see outside of the Caribbean!

As I made my way to the ticket booth, I anxiously eyed the extensive line snaking out from the entrance. Only one hundred people were being allowed to visit the fort at one time, however, the line moved much quicker than I anticipated and I was walking past the drawbridge and into the fort’s courtyard before I knew it.

Much like other forts I have visited prior, there were two levels to explore…the lower level which housed many exhibits, prison cells and living and working quarters and the upper level which provided expansive views of the historic city, the bay and nearby Anastasia Island, whose natural elements helped to birth the structure. While I enjoyed wandering from from room to room on the lower level, it is always the upper levels that are most fascinating with it guard towers and ornately engraved cannons.

A popular tourist attraction in St. Augustine, the fort is run by the National Park Service and is well preserved and maintained. After your tour of this historical structure, spend some time walking along the waterfront area and enjoy the expanse of ground that fronts the fort. Take a deep breath, close your eyes and imagine…with its water views and palms trees, it certainly does feel as though you are in the presence of a great Caribbean citadel.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castillo de San Marcos National Monument

https://www.nps.gov/casa/index.htm
Address: 1 S Castillo Dr, Saint Augustine Beach, FL 32084-3252
Hours: 0900-1730 (last admission 1700), daily. Park grounds closed from midnight until 0530. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas Day.
Admission: Adults (16 years and over), $15.00 (good for 7 consecutive days). Children (15 years and younger), free if accompanied by adult. Maximum capacity of 100 visitors in the fort at any time.
Parking: The city of St. Augustine maintains a parking lot in front of the Castillo. Parking is $2.50 per hour and paid at automated stations which accept currency, credit and debit. The city’s parking garage is located a block away and provides additional shaded parking.