Month: March 2021

The County Clink

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

In an old town, one expects to find old things.

An old tree, An old jail. An old store.

As I ventured north on San Marco Avenue in St. Augustine, after viewing the Old Senator, my intention had been to quickly check out the old jail site before heading to the historic downtown. What I found, however, was an attraction called Old Town which encompasses the Old Jail, the Oldest Museum Store and the Old Town Trolley depot.

Sensing that this was going to be a longer than anticipated visit, I headed over to the ticket booth to purchase admission for the attractions. With tickets in hand, not only for the jail and the store, but for the St. Augustine History Museum and the Old Town Trolley (for two days), I pondered what I would encounter.

Making my way to a marked area in front of the old jail building, I was intrigued by two “prisoners” who engaged those of us waiting. As they robbed us of information…where we were from…they also gave us an overview of what we could expect on our tour.

The Old Jail

Bringing us back to the year 1891, we were versed on Henry Flagler, the founder of the Florida East Coast Railway (which ironically was built through convict leasing), who had just opened the Ponce de Leon Hotel. Although he desired a secure place for the criminals of the city, it was important to him that this building not detract from the majestic atmosphere of the city. A jailhouse, designed by P.J. Pauley Jail Company who built Alcatraz, was designed to appear as a Victorian house from the outside…the inside was a different matter. This jail was built away from the downtown area and served the city until 1953.

At the rear of the building, we first encountered the gallows, the menacing site of the hangings of numerous violent criminals. Entering the jailhouse, we experienced both women’s and men’s cells as well as the maximum security area. The jailhouse also encompasses the sheriff’s office and living quarters…a little too close for comfort (to the inmates) in my opinion!

The Gallows

While it was interesting to see the interior of this beautiful structure, what made the tour special was our guide Bobalew. His exuberant tales of life behind bars as well the inmates’ stories were intriguing and he was wonderful in character, truly one of the most wonderful tour guides I have ever encountered! After the tour, we spoke and I learned that being a “convict” is his retirement job. I don’t know what he did before retirement, however, I think that Bobalew finally found his calling!

After taking a peek at the historic Mary Peck House, adjacent to the jail, I headed over to the St. Augustine History Museum. While not an extensive space, it is tightly packed with a great number of artifacts and declares St. Augustine’s long and rich history.

Finishing up in the adjoining gift shop, I perused the large number of city specific souvenirs. Walking out with a beer koozie and a hat, I crossed the courtyard and took a seat, waiting for the next tour of the Old Store Museum to begin.

While I don’t normally like to be in the last tour group of the day, in this instance, the last tour was the one to aspire to. After greeting the wooden Indian at the door, the tour guide led me (and only me) through the old general store, staying in character and using her charm to sell me the goods that were once peddled here during its heydey…think coffee grinders, seeds, spices and fabrics. Dimly lit and filled to capacity, it was an excellent recreation where one can almost feel like they have been transported back to the turn of the century.

The Wiles Houses, dating back to 1899, were moved to Old Town from their current location in St. Augustine and connected. Though this was not the original general store, it is a recreation of what a general store looked like during the time and filled with a large collection of early American antiques salvaged from the Oldest Store attraction, once located on Artillery Street. While the front was filled with the most basic necessities, the rear building had a huge display of small machinery and had it not been the end of the day, I could have stayed and perused every nook and corner!

Finally, with attractions closing up for the day, I walked across the parking lot to the Hildreth House (1870) which houses The Spice and Tea Exchange and the 1910 Cracker House which is being restored as a historic house museum in which Cracker life in early Florida will be interpreted. Neither building was open, however, I was led to History Walk path, a boardwalk which chronicles St. Augustine’s settlement history through signage along the way. There was a convict train car on display as well as convict statues along the avenue. Displayed here to attract passersby attention, they are great for photo opportunities!

While I did not make it to the historic district on this afternoon, I was glad that I had stumbled upon the Old Town attraction. For first time visitors to St. Augustine, it is a great place to start your exploration of the old city’s history!

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Old Town

  • https://www.visitstaugustine.com/thing-to-do/old-jail
  • Address: 167 San Marco Avenue, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: 0900-1630, daily. Tours start every 20 minutes.
  • Admission: Adults, $13.83, Children (ages 6-12), $7.44, Children (under 6 years), free. Free parking onsite.

The Oldest Resident

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Florida is known for its large population of seniors. Not high schoolers mind you…

Senior citizens!

The sunny days and warm weather offer good health and vitality, so many opt to move to the golden state their during their “golden” years.

I would imagine that even with the most outstanding weather, most residents don’t make it past their 100th birthday, however, so if I told you that St. Augustine has a resident much older than that, you probably would not believe me, right?

Would you believe 600 years old?

In the parking lot of the Villa 1565 Hotel, stands St. Augustine’s oldest resident…the Old Senator. No government politician, this senator stands over 56 feet tall, has a girth of over 21 feet and could tell many stories about St. Augustine’s history and people.

While most people are aware of gigantic sequoias of California, some of the largest trees in the world, not all realize how large live oak trees can maturate…well, maybe us southerners do, as we have grown up with them towering over our yards. This one, however, is probably the most impressive I have even laid eyes on.

Crossing paths with this giant while returning from the Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park, I was awed by its enormous size. Its torso is enclosed by a small gate and a wooden frame has been constructed, allowing for pictures with the tree’s trunk. While it is impressive to stand near its base and think about how many arms’ lengths it would take to make it all the way around, I think that it is much more impressive to stand back, inside of the parking lot, and observe how far reaching this behemoth’s limbs stretch.

While it is within the confines of the Villa 1565 Hotel, you will only have to fight for observation rights with the occasional trolley from Old Town Trolley Tours making stop number 21.

Go pay your respects and listen closely when the wind causes its leaves to whisper. You just might learn something.

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The Old Senator

  • Address: Villa 1565 Hotel, 137 San Marco Avenue, St. Augustine, FL, 32084
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

The Fountain of Youth

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The oldest continuously inhabited European-establlished settlement in the contiguous United States…what a mouthful!

Do you happen to know what city this is?

St. Augustine!

Many years ago, I resided in the state of Florida. During that year-long stay, I spent a lot of time traveling abroad with my job, but strangely, I didn’t spend a lot of time checking out the state that was my home.

Maybe I just wasn’t as adventurous as I am today.

Maybe I just wasn’t informed.

Maybe I spent most of my time tanning at the pool and the beach or hanging at Disneyworld (yep…).

Had I known then what I know now, I would have spent more time exploring, much like the pioneers that landed on Florida’s shores hundreds of years before. Recently, I had read a bit about the city of St. Augustine and I was enthralled with its history and with the photos of its old town. It appeared to be so charming and a bit like Europe or the Caribbean, both of which I was missing, being unable to travel freely because of Covid.

Tired of being on lockdown at home and feeling the need to venture out to a state that offered fewer restrictions, I packed up and headed to St. Augustine to see if it was as true in life as it was depicted in print.

After arriving in Jacksonville and picking up my rental car, I made the hour-long drive south and checked into my hotel. There appeared to be so many things to do in this small city, I didn’t know where to commence.

I decided to begin where it all began.

Juan Ponce de Leon was a Spanish explorer and conquistador who led the first official European expedition to Florida. Born in Spain in 1474, he first arrived in the Americas with Christopher Columbus’ second expedition in 1493. After serving as a top military official in Hispaniola, he then led an expedition to Puerto Rico, a colony in which he served as the first governor. Under the advice of King Ferdinand, he led an expedition to La Florida and landed on the eastern coast of what is now the United States on the feast day of St. Augustine.  The city served as the capital of Spanish Florida for over 200 years and was later settled by Pedro Menendez de Aviles.

Though idealized as a great explorer, people always associate Juan Ponce de Leon’s search with the Fountain of Youth, rather than settlement of new lands. This is a widely known story, however, it is one that historians call a myth. Today, the public’s fascination with staying young, leads those to have a bit of faith in the story.

While I wasn’t seeking youth during my visit, I was seeking adventure and education. Heading over to the Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park, I made my way through the entrance, handing my ticket over as I walked into the Spring House, a 60-year old coquina building, which houses the original spring recorded in a seventeenth century land grant, supposedly associated with Ponce de Leon. Grabbing a cup, I examined the exhibits showing Ponce de Leon’s interaction with Timucua Indians and filled my cup from the aquifer. Taking a sip, I was a bit disappointed. It was not as cold as I would have expected and the minerals gave the clear liquid a strange taste. Thinking I would stick with my bottled Dasani, I headed outside to see what else I could find.

Examining my map and activity schedule, I learned that many of the exhibits were offered at specified times. Since the next presentation at the nearby planetarium was about to begin, I decided that I would snag a seat and relax there for a few minutes. The presentation offered an explanation of how sailors of the past navigated the vast seas by the stars above them. It was actually more interesting that I had anticipated and I learned a great deal.

The next stop was the Discovery Globe Theater. Almost a full house, I sat in one of the few vacant seats at the front of the room and was not sure what I was there to witness. A short movie precluded the presentation and I was taken aback when the narrator said that we would be shocked as to how primitive it would be compared to technology of today…he wasn’t lying. The curtain was opened and there was a giant globe (hence the name)! Planet earth. As this giant 30-foot high globe was lighted, it illustrated the routes of the explorers to and from the New World, the lands of La Florida, the Universities that were established in the Americas and the settlements and cities that they founded. Yes, it was certainly nothing like today’s technology, however, back when this was first introduced, it presented to standing room only crowds. Ok…so I liked it a little bit. Actually, I liked it more than I will probably ever will admit. It was kind of like visiting Disneyworld’s Tomorrowland for the first time…you wait for a phenomenal show and it is more like a walk back in time, but a walk that fills you with sentimentality.

Finally, I made my way throughout the remainder of the park. There were exhibits detailing Timucua burials and a Timucua village, with it centerpiece being the Church of Nombre de Dios. This church is a recreation of the original that stood on this location in 1587, built with cypress and palm thatch. Living history interpreters are present in the village to answer questions and help you understand what day to day life was like in the village.

Walking along the pathways, I dodged a plethora of peacocks while admiring the lovely, well-manicured grounds, highlighted by tropical trees, plants and water features. The male peacocks strutted their stuff while the females hung back in the grassy areas, some perched on the antique firearms. Heading toward the back of the park, I took a stroll out on the Historic Landings Riverwalk, past the Peace Memorial and the Ponce de Leon statue and checked out the Spanish Lookout, arriving just in time to witness the shooting of the cannon.

Quite a crowd had gathered to observe the historical firearms presentation but it was the Spanish Lookout that I though to be more interesting. The original watchtower that stood in this location was significant in the settlement’s history as it was what was the undoing of St. Augustine in June of 1568. Because of a light in the watchtower, Sir Francis Drake, with two thousand men and forty-two ships, was guided toward shore. Had they not seen the light, they might have missed the town, however, they made their way inland, sacking, looting and burning the entire settlement and wooden fort. Today’s visitors can ascend the tower, affording themselves a bird’s eye view of the waterways upon which Sir Francis Drake menacingly made his way to St. Augustine.

With ringing ears from the cannon’s discharge, I resumed my walk along the pathways, paying heed to the framework reconstruction in the inner field. When complete, this project will give visitors the ability to experience the First Settlement as previously inhabited by Pedro Menendez de Aviles.

Other items of interest on the premises were the Chalupa of St. Augustine where the settlement’s boats were constructed and a blacksmith shop offering demonstrations on the creation of various tools used during the period.

While the park offers a wide array of experiences, it is not a large scale facility and easily navigated in a couple of hours. It is a great way to start your education and exploration of the historical city of St. Augustine, founded by Ponce de Leon and settled by Pedro Menendez de Aviles.  While there are many things to see inside of the park, make sure to pay your respects to Menendez’s statue at the park’s entrance and make sure to not miss the oak tree “tunnel” that fronts the roadway to the park!

As I made my way out of the park and walked along under the canopy of oaks, I couldn’t wait to see what else there was to discover in this historical city!

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Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park

  • https://www.fountainofyouthflorida.com/
  • Address: 11 Magnolia Avenue, St. Augustine, Florida 32084-2827
  • Hours: 0900-1800, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $18.00, Seniors (60 years +), $17.00, Children (6-12 years), $10.00, Children (under 5 years), free. Reduced rates for St. John’s County residents.

Holy Hollywood

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Cemeteries are a place of rest.

A holy place.

They can also be a place of beauty and of history.

In my lifetime, I have visited numerous cemeteries throughout the world. Famous cemeteries…like Pere Lachaise in Paris and La Recoleta in Buenos Aires. Sculptural ones…like Monumentale in Milan. Historical ones…like Gettysburg National Cemetery and Arlington National Cemetery.

Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond fits all three categories.

Situated very close to my home, Hollywood Cemetery is a place that I love to visit. While it is a peaceful and beautiful drive throughout, it is also a place for scenic views of the James River and a place to visit the resting places of historic citizens and soldiers.

Designed in 1847, the cemetery was constructed as a garden, steering away from the typical grid-like cemeteries normally seen in cities. This was done to accommodate visitors…to give them a place of solace, serenity and invitation. The landscape design left large stately trees in place including poplars and white oaks. There are over 2,000 trees in the cemetery today, many predating the cemetery, including the holly trees from which the cemetery adopted its name.

While one might think that parking at the entrance gates and making your way on foot is the way to visit, keep in mind that the cemetery encompasses a sprawling one hundred and thirty-five acres characterized by rolling hills and winding paths. Unless you are looking to incorporate some strenuous exercise into your tour, you might want to drive to each general location where parking is available on the side of the drives or in available spaces.

The best course of action is to first drive along Eastvale Avenue, passing the Confederate General Section, marked by an arch and a cannon, and on to Waterview Avenue. Pull over near the Palmer Chapel Mausoleum and President’s Circle for amazing views of the James River.

Confederate Generals

Palmers Chapel Mausoleum

In President’s Circle, you can pay tribute to John Tyler and James Monroe, the fifth and tenth presidents of the United States . President Monroe was laid to rest in Hollywood Cemetery in 1858, twenty-seven years after his death in New York City. His unique tomb is known as “The Birdcage” due to its unique structure. His wife, daughter and son-in-law are buried nearby.

Gravesite of President James Monroe

President Tyler was buried in the cemetery in 1862. Although his death was the only one in presidential history not to be officially recognized in Washington D.C. due his allegiance to the Confederate States of America, the Confederate President, Jefferson Davis, hosted a stately affair. Near the end of Waterview Avenue you will find the gravesites of President Jefferson Davis.

Gravesite of President John Tyler
Gravesite of Confederate President, Jefferson Davis

In this general area, you can also find the burial places of six of Virginia’s past governors, including Fitzhugh Lee (1886-1890), Charles T. Offerall (1894-1898), John Garland Pollard (1930-1934), William Smith (1946-1949), Claude A. Swanson (1906-1910) and Henry A. Wise (1856-1860) as well as some beautiful large crypts on Eliptic Avenue and the first burial site.

Crypts of Eliptic Avenue

There are some scattered parking areas near James Monroe’s tomb and there are some other interesting graves in this area.

Uphill from the entrance of the cemetery, further along Idlewood Avenue, stands a grand piece of architecture, a ninety foot granite pyramid completed in 1869. It is a monument dedicated to the 18,000 Confederate enlisted men buried nearby. In the circle at the rear of the monument, there is a marker which honors the memory of those former members of the John Marshall Corps of Cadets who gave their lives in behalf of Duty, Honor and Country. You can also find the gravesite of Raleigh E. Colston (1825-1896), American professor, soldier, cartographer, writer and brigadier general who served in the Confederate States Army during the American Civil War.

George E. Pickett’s grave is also in this location. Most remember Pickett’s Charge, the futile and bloody Confederate offensive on the third day of the Battle of Gettysburg, in which he was one of the commanders. His wife Sallie is buried nearby.

One of my favorite gravesites is not very far from the pyramid. On a corner, you will spot a black, cast-iron Newfoundland dog. This statue stands guard over the grave of a little girl who died in 1862. This gravesite is one sought out regularly by visitors and you can often spot gifts left on her tomb. In fact, dogs are a common theme throughout the cemetery, almost as common as angels!

There is much to occupy your time and explore in Hollywood Cemetery. You can purchase a map at the front office for $1 or load one on your phone, or just wing it and see what you can find on your own.

Hallowed grounds, but truly the most picturesque I have ever visited.

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Hollywood Cemetery

A Piece of the Triangle

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Most people know that Yorktown was the site, after seven years of the American Revolution, that British General Lord Charles Cornwallis surrendered to General George Washington during the last major land battle which brought an end to the conflict.

After a visit to the battlefield, visitors often head into the town to explore the distinct reminders of Yorktown’s historic past.

Millions of tourists visit Yorktown annually, in conjunction with visits to nearby Jamestown and Williamsburg. All three cities, which form the Historic Triangle, offer interesting experiences to visitors of all ages. Though it has been quiet lately, I think that interest in the origins of our great nation will continue to lure the past crowds back to the area and on this beautiful fall day, it lured me.

Established in 1691, to regulate trade and collect taxes on both imports and exports for Great Britain, Yorktown emerged as a major port and economic center in the early part of the next century. With almost 300 buildings, the waterfront offered wharves, docks, storehouses and business and the city streets contained stately homes, taverns and shops during the mid 1700’s. 1781 saw Cornwallis’ arrival and the subsequent siege by American and French forces. As a result, much of the town was destroyed.

At the end of the war, fewer than seventy buildings remained. A fire in 1814 destroyed much of the surviving waterfront area, many homes and the courthouse on Main Street. More destruction was seen during the Civil War in 1862.

While I would have loved to visit the American Revolution Museum, time was limited after my drive through the battlefield and I was much more interested in taking a stroll to channel what it must have been like before the siege. Parking in a lot in the downtown area, I decided to spend the remainder of the afternoon walking the town streets and seeing what makes it unique.

Yorktown has a colonial atmosphere and while there are some reminders of its historic past, much of it has been reconstructed. There are some sites of importance that I encountered during my stroll along the pedestrian friendly streets. Many historic buildings were not open to the public during my visit, but it was nice to inspect their architectural prominence from the grounds and imagine it as it once was…a thriving tobacco port.

One of the most important homes in Yorktown is the Nelson House on Main Street. This was the home of Thomas Nelson, Jr., one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence and a commander of the Virginia Militia during the Siege of Yorktown. Much of the house has withstood the test of time and is original, including the bricks and most of the mortar in the outer walls. The interior boasts its original wall panels and most of its wooden floors. The home is filled with reproductions and a few period pieces obtained to show visitors how the Nelsons lived.

The Cole Digges House, also on Main Street, is one of mystery. Originally thought to have been constructed by Thomas Pate, a landowner during the period of 1699 to 1703, the house was thought to have been built in 1700, however there is no record of its construction. When Cole Digges, purchased the land in 1713, records show a home on the lot, however, the National Park Service claims that Digges built the home in the 1730s due to its style and tree-ring analysis showing that the wood in the home was harvested around that time. The home has undergone renovations over the years, retaining its characteristics from the alterations made by owners in 1921. Today, it operates as the Mobjack Bay Coffee Roasters store.

The Somerwell House is another home, near the Digges and Nelson houses, whose origins are uncertain. Named for Mungo Somerwell, owner of the property in the early 1700s. Purchased by Philip Lightfoot in 1716, and then known as the Lightfoot House, the National Park Service opted to go with the original owner’s name which points to a construction date between 1700 and 1707, making it the oldest house in Yorktown. It was once used as a visitor center and park headquarters, and now used as a rental property.

The Old Custom House, on the corner of Main and Read Streets, was built around 1720 by Customs Agent Richard Ambler, to secure import and export taxes and duties for the Port of Yorktown and is one of only twelve historic Customs Houses still remaining in the United States. This house is open to the public on Sundays from June to October and offers a museum.

A little further down the street, the Yorktown Victory Monument towers on the banks of the York River. Commemorating the American-French victory over the British during the Siege of Yorktown in 1781, which ended the American Revolution, the monument was designed by architects R.M. Hunt and Henry Van Brunt, sculpted by J.Q.A. Ward in 1881 and was completed three years later. The monument displays four high relief sculptures which depict military aspects of the American-French alliance. Thirty-eight stars on the column represent the thirty-eight states that were present at the time of the monuments erection, thirteen neoclassical female figures represent the thirteen original colonies and under them can be spied the saying, “One country, one constitution, one destiny.” The monument is crowned by Lady Liberty.

Backtracking to the center of town, I sought out the town’s one religious structure, Grace Episcopal Church. Built in 1697, the church has survived fire and two wars. As I walked among the graves, I witnessed numerous gravesites from some of Virginia’s most prominent families, including Thomas Nelson, Jr., a signer of the Declaration of Independence, Nicholas Martiau, George and Elizabeth Martiau Read, “Scotch” Tom Nelson and William Nelson.

Breathing in the salty air, I led it lead me down Church Street, finding myself on the waterfront facing Yorktown Beach. The day was relatively warm and I spied many families enjoying the sunny skies and picturesque views. I stopped for a moment, taking off my shoes so I could feel the sand between my toes and looked out over the river and at the George P. Coleman Memorial Bridge spanning its width.

Continuing my walk along the Riverwalk, I encountered the Historic Freight Shed which was constructed by the National Park Service in the 1930s to serve as a ferry terminal building between York and Gloucester and as a warehouse for freight being shipped from other ports. Once the Coleman Bridge was completed, the ferry service was suspended and the building was solely used for storage. In 1956, the building was remodeled to be used as a post office, however, the post office was relocated in 2000. The building was transferred from the National Park Service to York County and moved back from the river approximately 300 feet. Today it serves the area as a event venue.

Stopping for a moment, I studied the three statues in front of the Freight Shed. These statues pay tribute to the Marquis de Lafayette and the assistance given by France to General Washington during the Siege of Yorktown.

Though it was tempting to spend more time enjoying this beautiful town, it was getting late. The Riverwalk is a wonderful place to enjoy a meal, visit galleries and boutiques, listen to the sounds of the Fifes and Drums and other live entertainment or rent a bike, kayak or Segway and cruise the waterfront. Sadly, due to Covid, many of these things were not available. In addition to the waterfront area, there are so many things to see and do in Yorktown…a ride on the Schooner Alliance, ghost tours, the York County Historical Museum, the Poor Potter Archaeological Site, the Yorktown Baptist Church among them…if you are planning a visit, make sure to plan accordingly.

Finally, I began the uphill walk back to where I had began, passing the Swan Tavern a reconstruction of the main tavern from 1722 and York Hall, the former courthouse.

It is a great benefit to live so close to so many places that played such a significant part of our country’s history. While I couldn’t see everything in Yorktown on this day, there is nothing stopping me from the hour long drive on another.

I will be back.

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Yorktown

  • https://visityorktown.org/
  • Getting There: From I-95, Take I-64 East to VA-199 East/Colonial Parkway, Follow the Colonial Parkway to Yorktown, Turn left onto Water Street. Yorktown is 160 miles from Washington DC, 62 miles from Richmond and 12 miles from Williamsburg.

Nelson House

Cole Digges House

Somerwell House

The Old Customs House

  • Address: 410 Main Street, Yorktown, Virginia 23690, United States

Yorktown Victory Monument

Grace Episcopal Church

Historic Freight Shed

  • https://www.visityorktown.org/240/Freight-Shed
  • Address: 331 Water St, Yorktown, VA 23690, United States

A Place of Surrender

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

If your interests lie in American history, then Virginia is the place to be.

With scores of battlefields, historical homes and buildings you can fill many days on your vacation or if you live there, like me, take field trips to occupy your unscheduled days.

On a beautiful fall afternoon, I found myself quite restless. I was tired of cleaning up after the dog, tired of watching Netflix and being off of work at that moment, definitely needing something different. Jumping in my car I headed east, knowing that there are many parks and places to visit along the way, I figured that I would just drive until inspiration hit.

Spotting the signs for Yorktown, I decided that since it was such a lovely day to be outside, checking out the battlefield would be perfect.

My arrival at the Visitor’s Center found it to be closed due to Covid restrictions, however, a park ranger was available outside to answer questions and assist with maps and ideas on how to tackle the immense battlefield area. Under normal circumstances, the Visitor Center is the perfect place to start your explorations with an orientation film, entitled “The Siege at Yorktown” and examine museum exhibits, which include the field tents used by General George Washington during battle and the campaign table used by British General Cornwallis. However, because the Visitor Center was closed, no fees were collected for my visit, a bonus!

Visitor’s Center

As I listened to the downloaded app on my phone, I learned that Yorktown was important in our nation’s history as this was the battle where American independence was won. On October 19, 1781, American and French armies led by General George Washington saw the surrender of the British forces under Lord Charles Cornwallis.

Although the British had chosen Yorktown for its deep water harbor and had fortified Yorktown, they were unprepared for the large army that arrived. George Washington had left New York with approximately 7,000 American and French troops and picked up nearly 8,000 more along the way. French Admiral Francois Joseph Paul de Grasse landed with a fleet of warships and an additional 3,000 troops, blockading the mouth of the York River. With no supplies and no reinforcements, Cornwallis found himself in peril and bound for a battle in which he was not ready.

The six-stop tour of Yorktown Battlefield was easy to navigate and led me to the most important spots on the battlefield, each marked with signs directing me from one stop to the next. Signs with red arrows were easy to follow for the Yorktown Battlefield tour and the yellow arrows for the Allied Encampment tour.

Beginning at Stop A, the British Inner Defense Line, I noted the preserved earthworks built by the British soldiers as defensive walls and many cannons, which are pointed in the direction where the American and French forces were positioned. In this area, are the remains of a small British fort (the Hornwork) and in the nearby field, the home of Thomas Nelson, a former Secretary of State for the Colony of Virginia. This home was used as Cornwallis’ headquarters until it was destroyed during the fighting.

Going out of order, my next stop (C) was the Second Allied Siege Line which ran all the way to the York River in the east. Parking in the adjacent lot, I took a walk along the pathways which bordered the earthworks and again, spied many cannons.

At Stop B, the Grand French Battery, I learned that the earthworks here are reconstructions. When the originals were leveled and had eroded, the National Park Service built the current fortifications in the exact location of the originals. There is a Howitzer and a mortar near the parking area and a footbridge and another information panel which describes the various artillery pieces.

Rather than return to the main road near the Visitor Center and Stops D and E, I decided to continue along Surrender Road toward the encampments. The six-stop tour of the Allied Encampment area gives visitors an overview of the areas that the American and French troops used for spending time, sleeping, drilling and storing artillery and other equipment. A beautiful drive through the woods, there wasn’t much to see besides the natural beauty of the area including wetlands and large open fields; a vivid imagination is required. Occasional signs enlighten visitors as to the locations of the French Hospital, the Headquarters Site of the Quartermaster General, the Headquarters Site of Henry Knox, Beaver Dam Creek, Washington’s Headquarters and the French Encampment. I discovered the Essex Lodge Cemetery and the French Cemetery, marked by a simple cross in memory of about fifty unidentified French soldiers killed during the Siege of Yorktown. There were a few cannons, both American and French, along the way, many in the French Artillery Park.

Heading back towards the York River, I made my way to Stop D, Redoubts 9 and 10. The earthworks that made up the British inner defenses was anchored by earthen forts as its outer defenses. These redoubts, located on the banks of the river, were stormed by the French and American forces on the night of October 14, 1781 and captured within thirty minutes. The devastation to the British position was so great that the next day, Cornwallis called for a cease fire and surrender talks began. Both forts have been reconstructed by the National Park Service and artillery representing the large American battery are on display along the siege line which runs behind the redoubt.

On the way to Stop E, I encountered the Wormley Pond Dam, built by Augustine Moore to power his grist mill. American troops marched over the dam regularly as they moved to and from the Siege line. The Moore House, the next stop on the tour, was not open to visitors but its grounds were available for inspection. This was the location where after Cornwallis asked for a cease fire and the talks for surrender terms were negotiated on October 18, 1781. Washington and Cornwallis were not present, however, each sent two representatives; for the British, Lieutenant Colonel Thomas Dundas and Major Alexander Ross and for the American-French alliance, Lieutenant Colonel John Laurens and Colonel Viscount de Noailles. An agreement was reached that night.

The Moore House was almost destroyed during the Civil War and has been renovated many times by the National Park Service. Although very little of the house remains from 1781, it was restored to its 1781 appearance based on drawings and descriptions from the time. The house is furnished with reproductions and antiques from the time period and it is not known which room was used to sign the surrender documents, although it is believed to have been the parlor. During normal operations, the house is open during various times from April through October and often rangers are present at the house to answer questions.

Finally, I made my way to the last stop on the tour, Stop F, Surrender Field, the location where 7,000 British soldiers abdicated to the American and French armies on October 19, 1781.

During a time when surrendering with dignity was so important, it was a great insult to Cornwallis that the Americans would not let him do so. Consider it payback that when the British had captured Charleston, the Americans were not allowed to surrender with honor. Negotiations lasted day and night at the Moore House, however, the British had to finally agree or continue to endure the battering from the French and American artillery. Claiming illness, Cornwallis did not attend the surrender.

From the parking area, you can follow a paved path which leads to an observation deck that looks out over the still intact field and an audio presentation can be accessed by the push of a button. Leaving the observation deck, follow the walkway and check out the display of surrendered artillery pieces which were engraved to mark the historic occasion. 12,000 muskets and 244 artillery pieces were relinquished by the British and 250 artillery pieces were engraved and given to various dignitaries.

The two historic trails are a wonderful way to spend an afternoon, learning about one of the most important events in our nation’s history. Not only can you see the locations of some of the fiercest battles, but you can spend the day in nature possibly spotting bald eagles, osprey, woodland birds, deer, groundhogs and squirrels. After a day on the battlefield, head over to the town of Yorktown and discover more of the area’s history.

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Yorktown Battlefield National Park

  • https://www.nps.gov/york/index.htm
  • Address: 1000 Colonial Parkway, Yorktown, Virginia 23690
  • Hours: Park grounds and tour roads, open from sunrise to sunset. Yorktown Battlefield Visitor Center is open for access to the Eastern National bookstore, open Tuesday-Sunday, 1000-1600. The theater and exhibit areas are currently closed. The Moore House, The Nelson House, The Cemetery Lodge and the Poor Potter are closed but grounds open for visitation.
  • Admission: Adults aged 15 and over, $15.00. Admission is valid for 7 days and provides access to the following resources managed by Colonial National Historical Park: Yorktown Battlefield Visitor Center Museum and Battlefield Tour Roads, Jamestown Visitor Center, Glasshouse and Island Drive Tour Road.
  • Getting There: From eastbound I-64, take exit 242B for Yorktown, to the Colonial Parkway. Follow the parkway to its end. From westbound I-64, take exit 250B for Route 105 East (Fort Eustis Boulevard east) to Route 17 (George Washington Memorial Highway). Turn left (North) onto Route 17. Follow the signs to the Yorktown Battlefield.

Come Fly With Me

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

My life in the past year has not been the same, much like everyone else.

Looking forward to being able to continue my aviation career, the need to be vaccinated, so as to travel to other countries in the future, was paramount in getting back to normal. So when I was able to secure a vaccination appointment in my state of employment, I decided to move heaven and earth to ensure that I did not miss that coveted time slot.

Leaving early the morning before my appointment, I headed to New York. Deciding to stay in the vicinity of the city’s John F. Kennedy International airport, near where my appointment was located, I perused local hotels with availability for the night. Looking to get points in my favored hotel’s loyalty program was soon overshadowed by the prospect of staying at another.

The TWA Hotel.

Trans World Airlines operated from 1930 until 2001, under the operation of the American business magnate, Howard Hughes, from 1939 until the 1960’s. Formed as Transcontinental & Western Air, it operated routes from New York to Los Angeles with various stops along the way and was one of four big domestic airlines in the United States. After World War II, the airline’s routes expanded to Europe, the Middle East and Asia and competed with the famed Pan American Airways.

Though TWA was headquartered at one time in Kansas City, Missouri, it’s main transatlantic hub was located at JFK International Airport in New York City. It was here that the iconic building, designed by Eero Saarinen, that housed its flight operations was located. Sadly, however, TWA ceased operations in 2003.

The head house as the flight operations center building was known, had stopped functioning in 2002. Over the next few years, the building was protected from demolition, designated a landmark, added to the National Register of Historic Placesand and the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey sought ways to redevelop and reuse the superstructure.

Eventually, the building was incorporated into Jetblue’s Terminal 5 and talks were in the works to develop the hotel into a hotel, the first and only operating within JFK’s boundaries.

Opened on May 15, 2019, to much fanfare, the hotel consists of the two buildings, containing 512 rooms, which flank the head house. In addition to the hotel rooms, the hotel boasts a conference space, six restaurants, eight bars, a rooftop infinity pool and an aviation museum.

After arriving in Terminal 4, I made my way, via the Skytrain to Terminal 4. Following the directions that were sent by the hotel, I eventually found my way into the building.

Amazing!

As I passed the TWA travel posters, by artist David Klein (circa 1955-1965), which captured the look of cities that TWA served during the Jet Age of travel, I couldn’t wait to get to my room to see what awaited me.

The counters at the check-in area are the original counters used for check-in during the airline’s heyday and if you take a peek around them, you can find the original baggage belts still present. While the agents on duty fielded phone calls, I was able to use the self-service kiosk to check-in and activate my own key.

Finally, headed up the space-age tubes, which were featured in the movie, Catch me If You Can, I made my way to my room, #518.

Though my first thought was that it was a bit utilitarian, I soon came to appreciate the small details that made it special…brass lighting, authentic retro Knoll furnishings, another piece of Klein’s artwork, and an old, still operational, rotary phone. The glassware, soap, shampoo, wireless phone charger and even the Do Not Disturb Sign were all emblazoned with the TWA logo. Even the wall light switch near the door was designed to look like a cockpit switch.

After a bit of a rest, I headed out to see what else was housed under the historic hotel’s roof. In my tower, I found a perfect replica of Howard Hughes’ office and in the other, a replica of Eero Saarinen’s office, complete with drafting desk, blueprints and drawings from the architect’s hand. Also on display was an architect’s model of the head house. In the same tower, I also discovered an authentic recreation of a 1962 living room which included an original Barbie Dreamhouse and furnishings people of my age might remember from grandma’s house…crocheted pillow and yellow shag rug anyone?

Taking the elevator to the top of the tower, it suddenly dawned on me that I had forgotten my swimsuit. Oh well, as tempting as the 95 degree waters of the heated rooftop infinity pool was, the shock of the cold upon exiting that same pool was a bit deterring in the 40 degree weather. Instead, I walked around the observation deck, hands thrust deep in my pockets, scarf nestled around my neck, getting a good look at JetBlue’s terminal and unobstructed views of Runway 4 Left/22 Right and Jamaica Bay. Although I have spent a great deal of my career taxiing around this airport, this was definitely a view I didn’t normally get to see.

Heading back down the elevator, I entered the main part of the hall. I perused the gift shop and then discovered one of my favorite things of the afternoon…the free photo booth. Since there wasn’t anyone lining up behind me to have their images captured, I spent quite a bit of time, trying to get some good photos of myself with the TWA logo in the background. Best part of the whole thing…the pictures were immediately emailed to my account, so I was able to send to my husband and show him what I was up to!

Continuing my exploration on the main floor, I discovered the original custom ceramic floor tiles, red carpeting and red furniture originally in the TWA lounges. The large split-flap display departure board, fully restored, is in the main lobby with departure cities and times, though I didn’t do enough investigation to see if they were accurate. Along the front of the building, there were many original items on display including TWA logoed cars, Coca-Cola machines, below-wing employee uniforms, suitcases and even one of TWA’s tugs and luggage carts.

A quick walk outside the front of the building gave a great overview of the beautiful architecture of the building in the waning light of the late afternoon.

Back in the building, I made my way upstairs, viewing the original clock and old payphones, which act as the hotel’s house phones (Dial 5 for a special message from TWA!). At the top level, I found something near and dear to my heart…flight attendant uniforms!

These flight attendant uniforms (or hostess uniforms as they were once called) date back to 1944 with designs by Howard Greer and display unique TWA logo cutouts around the lapel. From 1955 to 1960, uniforms were designed by the famed designer, Oleg Cassini, known for dressing former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy. You can definitely see the change in direction to a more polished look that these uniforms took. There are also uniforms that were worn from 1960-1965, by Don Loper, who also designed Pan Am’s 1959 uniform, Pierre Balmain, from 1965-1968, Dalton of America, from 1968-1971 and Valentino, from 1971-1975. Though the Valentino designs were the most conservative, indicative of the time (think leisure suit), I particularly enjoyed the colorful ones. There were also examples of two of the TWA pilot’s uniforms…not much has changed over the last 60 years!

Looking down at the hotel’s Sunken Lounge, I vowed to sit for a while and enjoy the view, however, before the sun headed toward its final minutes, I wanted to see up close, the view that can be had from that lounge area. Finding the doors leading to the outside, I made my way across the former tarmac, past a tug and luggage cart to one of the curated items that make this hotel so special.

Connie.

The 60-year old Lockheed L-1649 Starliner, the last model of the Lockheed Constellation line of airliners that broke the transcontinental speed record in 1946, is parked just outside, between the head house and the hotel. I wandered around the aircraft landing gear, admiring the propellers and jetway stairs and unique manhole covers. It was disappointing to find that during this chilly time of year, however, that the plane was closed to visitors. One of the things I wanted to do most was enjoy a drink inside Connie, which has been converted to a cocktail lounge, complete with original 1958 airplane chairs and a cockpit which airs JFK’s live air traffic control feed.

Finally, I made my way back into the hotel, heading to the front to purchase a couple of beers. I selected a seat in the Sunken Lounge and watched the split-flap display departure board which instead of displaying flights and times, displays pictures and messages, such as FLY TWA and I LOVE NY. As the display board began its flipping motions front the top, it was fascinating to wonder what it would eventually display. As I finally headed back to my room, I passed the Reading Room and the Twister Room and boy at that moment, I wished that I had someone to play with!

My window-facing bed, with a view of Jetblue’s Terminal 5, was extremely comfortable and extremely private when I lowered the room darkening shades. Although I would have loved one of the Historic TWA or Runway Views, those were not in my budget for this trip and I strangely enjoyed watching the police call tow trucks to haul away those illegally parked! With this view, who needs a television?

Strange thing was…I never once heard a plane take off or land and had a terrific night’s sleep, thanks to the thoughtful soundproofing. Unusual for an airport hotel!

My trip to New York wasn’t one that I originally had looked forward to, yet this magnificent hotel, made it special. Yes, I am a flight attendant and a bit of an aviation nerd, but I think that anyone who appreciates history, will enjoy every bit of this thoughtfully designed hotel.

If you are at JFK for any length of time between flights, head on over and take a look at the hotel’s lobby, which is open to the public or have a drink in Connie during the warmer months. If you have to remain in the JFK overnight, most definitely book a stay at this historic lodging.

GO FLY WITH TWA!

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TWA Hotel

  • https://www.twahotel.com/
  • Address: One Idlewild Drive, JFK International Airport, Queens, New York 11430
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: Free for museum exhibits. Nightly rates vary.

Castle Rock

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Across the James River, less than half a mile from the Belmead mansion, lies St. Francis de Sales.

Sad, neglected and slowly succumbing to the passage of time.

Built by enslaved people in the 1800s, the Belmead plantation was eventually converted to both a school for boys, St. Emma Military Academy, housed in the Belmead mansion and St. Francis de Sales School for Girls which offered educations for Native and African American students. These schools were established by Mother Katherine Drexel, a former heiress and socialite who devoted her life to the church and later went on to become one of only two American Roman Catholic saints. The girl’s school was named for Drexel’s father, Francis, and often referred to as Castle Rock…a castle to the girls that resided there and a foundation (rock) for their futures.

Both schools were closed in 1970 and since this time, the buildings have fallen into disrepair.

Visiting with a tour organized by local photographer John Plaschal, I had already done a full exploration of the Belmead mansion and its surrounding property. I headed to St. Francis de Sales, having to take the long way around with the James River bridge outage. Parking in the lot adjacent to the former school, I made my way through the opening in the gate, heading to the front of the building. The back was a bit lackluster, but it was the Gothic facade was what I wanted most to see.

Part of the front of the building had collapsed in the past few years and this made for some interesting photography, but the part I was most excited about was the church. With its arched doorway, capped with a splendid stained glass window and statue of its namesake, St. Francis de Sales, it was breathtaking. Creeping vines covered the façade, some still in bloom, and an occasional window was shattered, allowing the outside to venture in.

Waiting my turn, I finally entered the doorway. The narthex was enclosed by a low barrier and I had to be content to view the entire church from this viewpoint. It was obvious that mass had not been celebrated here in some time. There were two pews in front of the altar which appeared to be waiting for the worshipers of the past. The vaulted ceiling rose above and it looked as if great portions of it had fallen, leaving only the beams visible. What I loved most, however, were the colorful stained glass windows, visible on the left side of the church.

An agreement had been made with the current owner to allow visitors to venture no further than this point, due to the current state of the property. It was sad, as I would have liked to inspect each part of the church more intimately and especially to look back towards the choir to see the light filtering through the stained glass window above the doorway.

Walking completely around the building, I paid attention to the numerous architectural details while making my way toward the former art studio. The doorway was open and I spied blank chalkboards, empty shelves and tables and chairs covered in the crumbling debris from the aged ceiling.

The back of the building was in especially atrocious shape with the right side collapsing from the main structure. I was able to make my way closer, however, to see the balconied areas and vine-covered entrance. The rusty fire escapes still clung to the back of the building and I could only imagine the occasional student’s attempts to venture out using these dilapidated steps when curfew was upon them.

Following the path behind the school, I inspected the tall chimney and an abandoned building. An old gas pump stood neglected in the weeds nearby and I wondered if equipment used at the school was stored there at one time.

Continuing on the path through the woods, I admired the changing leaves and tall trees that lined the path. Eventually, I encountered a low wall, a landmark that I had been instructed to look for. Just beyond, I found the small, humpback bridge that crossed the small creek. I photographed every angle, even stepping down into the creek bed to see it from below, while the water coursed past my feet.

My journey back to the main building seemed much quicker and I sought out some of the other buildings on the property. Finally, eyeing the darkening sky, I jumped into my car and made my way to the main road. There was, however, a stop I had to make along the way.

The nun’s cemetery.

John, aware of my love of cemeteries, insisted that I visit on my way out and described the landmarks that I needed to navigate the area successfully. Pulling my car over to the shoulder, I headed into the darkening forest.

Now, I have watched enough scary movies to ask myself, “Why are you going into the forest…at dusk…by yourself…looking for a cemetery?”

Still, I ventured on, finding what then made sense as I saw it…a tree tunnel. Well, it was more like evergreen bushes trained to grow into a shape that resembled a tunnel, but instead of walking around it, I heeded my instructions and overcame my fear of the creepy crawlies that probably resided there. Moving quickly through it, I continually eyed the light at the end. “Come to the light,” it called, evoking memories of supernatural movies where the dead passed on, heading towards a bright aurora. That thought was applicable, as when I stepped out, it was there that I found the nun’s cemetery.

About eleven small headstones, marking the final resting place of the nuns that resided there, were scattered around the overgrown graveyard. In the moment, I was more concerned with snakes, than ghosts, so I headed back to the path.

Continuing on into the ever-growing gloom, I passed through a gate and found the children’s cemetery. Now, if dead nuns don’t make you scared, dead children might…especially in the dark.

I made quick work of photographing the small burial ground and finally, returned as quickly as I had come…maybe quicker!

A successful day of photography, both the Belmead and St. Francis de Sales, although, shadows of their former selves, make for stunning architectural subjects. It is good to know, however, that both buildings have been recently purchased by a new owner and a foundation has been established in an effort to restore and reuse the buildings.

Possibly one day, after renovations, everyone may have the opportunity to see these stunning pieces, reminders of time gone by.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

St. Francis de Sales

  • Address: 3500 St. Emma Drive, Powhatan, Virginia 23139
  • Admission: Admitted by invitation only
  • Hours: No regular hours

John Plaschal Photography

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