© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.
During my last visit to Lisbon, I made the journey to the coastal area of Belém. With so many things to see and do there, I was disappointed to realize that there wasn’t sufficient time in my short afternoon to visit all of the landmarks. During this trip, we were fortunate to be there for the Festival of the Mask, which takes place on the grounds of the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos.
Staring at the beautiful building, I was mesmerized at its intricate facade and decided that this beautiful building would be first on the list of places to visit on my next trip.
One of the most decorative churches in Portugal, the monastery was built on the site of the church dedicated to Santa Maria de Belém on the harbor of Praia do Restelo. Monks of the military-religious Order of Christ resided here at the time and provided assistance to seafarers in transit.
In 1495, Manuel I inaugurated the construction of the existing structure and the Hieronymites order of monks were chosen to reside in the complex, remaining there for over four centuries. The building of the time was already in disrepair when Vasco da Gama and his men spent the night in prayer there before departing on their Orient expedition in 1497.
Construction of the monastery was initiated on January 6, 1501 and eventually took 100 years until its completion. As an overabundance of taxes were collected, architects’ plans grew until it reached the size, scale and style that you see today. The Manueline ornamentation in the cloisters incorporates maritime elements and objects discovered during naval expeditions, carved in limestone. The main chapel, the choir and the two stories of the monastery were completed in 1550, however thirty years later, construction was halted as funds were redirected to the Escorialin in Spain as Portugal and Spain united.
After various parts of the monastery was completed in the 1600s (new portal, cloister door, house of the doorkeepers, staircase and a hall that was the entrance to the upper choir), the monastery became the burial place for the royal pantheon.
Additional adornments were completed in the 1700s, including important paintings by artist Henrique Ferreira. After the earthquake of 1755, much of the artwork and treasures were transferred to the crown or lost and the structure was vacated.
During the late 1800s, restorations began on the property, including the cloisters. The annex and facade of the church were altered dramatically and are what you see today.
The Monastery of Jerónimos is one of the most visited landmarks in Lisbon and tourists should be aware of long waits to enter…I had no idea. Fortunately, as I took my place in line, I was informed by a passerby that I could enter the Archaeological Museum next door, purchase my ticket there and skip the line. Of course, I was a bit skeptical…if I left my place in line and what I was told was inaccurate, it would be back to the end of the line again. Thankfully, they were correct. I waited for ten minutes, purchased my ticket and walked past everyone who had been in front of me and was still waiting in the warm afternoon temperatures.
The monastery is truly magnificent, with its carvings of saints over its entryways and fine stone details…make sure to stop by the South Entrance which is truly magnificent. Once inside, the two level cloister is a sight to behold with pinnacles, gargoyles and other decorative features and long, architectural corridors.
The interior gardens offer a mixture of the Manuelino, European, Moorish and Eastern styles, symbols of the Portuguese empire and its power throughout the world. Certainly a place to take your time, admire the architecture and spend a bit of time in reflection on one of the many alcoves on the upper level. Pay particular attention to all of the different carvings on each of the columns…faces, rosettes, dates.
You will also encounter some of the remains of important figures in Portuguese history, including presidents Teófilo Braga and Oscar Carmona, playwright, Almeida Garrett and modern poet Fernando Pessoa.
The Church of Santa Maria de Belém, in the monastery, does not need a ticket to enter and is truly the highlight of the monastery. Access to the upper level choir loft is from the monastery, so be sure not to miss it. Take in the view of the church from above before heading downstairs. Of particular interest is the crucifix, the beautiful paintings and the carved choir seating all bathed in the subtle light streaming in from the rose window.
As I entered the church’s lower lever, my senses were truly overloaded as I was not sure where to set my gaze. Entering from the side portal, I first encountered the tombs of Vasco da Gama and Luís de Camões which are located in the lower choir. These magnificent tombs, designed by sculptor Costa Mota can be admired from all angles and both offer extreme detail. The baptismal chapel is also located near the side doors as well as the exquisite Altar Dourado. Along the north wall are beautiful confessionals and large stained glass windows decorate the space, allowing alluring filtered light to enter.
As I walked around the church and marveled at the amazing details that decorated every niche, every column and every arch, I encountered the remains of Cardinal-King Dom Henrique and the children of Manuel I as well as the tomb of King Sebastião and the descendants of King João III.
Make sure to walk near the altar for a closer look at the beautifully painted walls and golden tabernacle. The golden organ is also located at the front of the church.
Overall, my visited lasted just over an hour and I was touched by the artistry and grandeur of this amazing place.
When visiting Lisbon, make sure to head over to Belem to experience some of the most beautiful architecture in the city. Worth any amount of time you may have to spend in line, Jerónimos Monastery is a masterpiece!
For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Monsteiro dos Jerónimos
- http://www.mosteirojeronimos.gov.pt/pt/index.php
- Address: Praça do Império 1400-206 Lisboa, Portugal
- Hours: October to April, 1000-1730, May to September, 1000-1830. Closed Mondays, January 1, Easter Sunday, May 1, June 13 and 25 December.
- Admission: Individuals, 10€. Combination ticket, Monastery and National Archaeological Museum, 12€. 50% discount for 65 years and older. Family ticket, 50% discount for 2 adults, 2 children, ages 0-18.
- Getting There: #15 Tram from the city center runs to Belem
- Additional Information: Gift shop located within the monastery as well as an exhibit on the history and construction of the monastery.
As I entered the fortress-like facade, with its two large clock towers and massive solid walls, I ran my hand over the large wooden doors passing through into the interior. The first thing I noticed, however, was how dark the cathedral appeared. Though the second story of the ambulatory has a series of windows and the narrow windows of the lateral aisles allow light to enter, the church appeared to be much more gloomy than others I have visited.
Dodging other visitors, we made our way toward the front of the church admiring the rose window in the West facade and the interesting barrel vaulting of the nave.
Especially interesting were the chapels, one especially enclosed by a Romanesque gate. Others include a funerary chapel, near the entrance of the cathedral, built by wealthy merchant Bartolomeu Joanes in the 14th century which still contains his tomb with his laying figure inside.
At the end of the 13th century, King Dinis of Portugal ordered the construction of a Gothic-style cloister. The cloister was damaged, along with many chapels and the royal pantheon during the earthquake of 1755. Since renovated, the cloisters can be visited today, however, when we visited, it was Sunday and they had not yet opened for the afternoon. I was truly disappointed as I understand, the tile work is simply amazing and it offers some of the most beautiful architecture in the city. Additionally, we were not able to visit the Treasury as it is also closed on Sunday.
Approaching the vertical structure from the rear, I gazed up at the walkway connecting the tower to Largo do Carmo, catching a glimpse of those traversing the walkway and others peeking out over the edge of the observation decks. The iron structure, with its neo-gothic arches and geometric patterns, is truly remarkable to see up close, towering seven stories with its four vertical columns, each composed of two pillars. And if you think there is some semblance to the Eiffel Tower, you would be correct. Roberto Arménio was, indeed, a former student of civil engineer and architect, Gustave Eiffel!
Exiting the elevator, I stepped out on the platform and made my way around the structure.
After purchasing my ticket, I took my place in line hoping to get a good spot in the teleférico. Luckily, I was one of the first in and snagged a position in the front of the car, heading to the top of Urca Hill, 220 meters above sea level. This part of the ride offered me my first aerial views of Copacabana and Ilha Cortunduba just off the coast. After I disembarked, I walked around for a few minutes, inspecting the two cable cars displayed here…the first cable car from 1912 and a more modern version. There are a number of trails that run through the thick vegetation, however, I decided continue my journey upward after getting my first views of Niteroi Bridge and Guanabara Bay and my second viewing of the Christ statue standing proud on its peak.
Boarding the next, larger teleferico on Urca, I was once again lucky enough to have a good position in the cabin for the three minute ride. Upon my exit, the view from the top of Sugarloaf was incomparable to any other I had ever seen. With a 360 degree view of the area, I gazed upon the whole of Rio, Niteroi and the blue waters of the Atlantic and Guanabara Bay and inland to the tropical forested mountains, including the peak, Dedo de Deus (God’s Finger), located 50 miles from Rio. Spying a low-flying airplane, I followed its descent until I located the Santos Dumont Airport in the north.
Deciding to have lunch at the restaurant overlooking the ocean, I took a seat and prepared to order. After waiting a while, I noticed that the staff was a extremely busy and no one had yet to take my order, wasting precious time. Yet, all was not lost…having come down to this area, I discovered a trail. Walking among the beautiful trees and tropical growth on the well-paved path, I noticed that I was being followed. A marmoset was running on the handrail next to me! As I stopped to watch, two more joined him. An amazing spectacle, they preened and posed and then I was fortunate to hear them call to each other. Truly priceless!
Christ the Redeemer Statue. Cristo Redentor.
Driving through the city was fascinating…the architecture and busy streets held my attention until I realized we were climbing. After a while, we pulled into the National Park area and the Cosme Velho station. Here, we were transferred to another van which would take us the remainder of the way to the statue.
After a beautiful drive through the Italian countryside, we pulled into the winery property. One of the owners, Michelle, greeted us warmly and showed us the grapes growing at the rear of the property. She explained the different varieties and showed us some that were beginning to ripen.
Finally, we took a seat in the quaint tasting room and began to sample their fare, beginning with two whites, moving on to Prosecco and then finally their reds. Each, truly more delicious than the last!
Our hosts, Roberto and Michelle, were friendly and kind and despite our lack of Italian and their sometimes limited English, made us feel so at home.