Religious Institutions – Page 13

What Lies Beneath…

There are many ancient basilicas throughout Italy.

There are many ancient basilicas in Milan.

Take your pick!

One of the oldest basilicas, San Lorenzo, is located in the southern part of the city of Milan near the canal district.

Originally built between the late fourth and early fifth century, the basilica boasts the highest dome in the city and lies opposite sixteen Corinthian marble columns, Colonne di San Lorenzo, the few remains of the Roman “Mediolanum” which date from the 3rd century AD.

Walking alongside these columns, I admired their everlasting strength and symmetry and turned to pass through the piazza in front of San Lorenzo. Here, I was greeted by a copy of the Emperor Constantine, the first emperor to convert to Christianity, standing tall and proud and ready to greet the hoards of young people who congregate here each afternoon and evening.

Entering the church, my first impression of the octagonal nave was one of a modest interior. A majestic gold altar, stands in the center, however the dark, grey stone innards is a far reach from many other churches’ beautifully painted interiors, more specifically San Maurizio, which I had visited earlier in the day.

As I walked around the exterior walls of the church, I discovered many interesting statues and small chapels, however, I also discovered what this church is known for. The Cappella di Sant’Aquilino (Chapel of St. Aquilinus).

After paying my entry fee of 2€, I discovered in this beautiful sanctuary, fourth century Byzantine mosaics on the walls and niches. One interesting mosaic in particular depicts a beardless Christ and another has crumbled away to reveal the artist’s drawings beneath.

A lovely, glass encased sarcophagus sits below a magnificently painted domed ceiling and is said to hold the remains of Galla Placidia, the wife of Ataulf, the king of the Visigoths and sister of Honorius, the last emperor of Rome.

After seeing two other tourists duck behind the sarcophagus I went to investigate, discovering a stairway leading down below the church. There, in the dusty crypt-like room, is a most fascinating find…the original foundations of the church. These ancient foundations were transported here from a Roman amphitheater and were the beginnings of San Lorenzo.

Ascending back up the stairs and through the chapel, I took time to reinspect central part of the church once again, realizing that I had missed the pipe organ, built by Pietro Bernasconi. This fascinating organ with two keyboards, was built with materials re-used from the previous organ built in 1840 by Felice Bossi, which in turn had borrowed parts from an earlier organ by Antonio Brunelli II. This original organ is believed to be from the church of San Giovanni in Conca.

As I exited the doors into the rainy afternoon and stared out at the Roman columns towering before the church, I realized that though not one of the most ornate basilicas in Milan, San Lorenzo is definitely one of the most interesting. When visiting this ancient basilica, be sure to spend the extra money and visit the Chapel of St. Aquilinus…truly the jewel in this masterpiece.

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Basilica di San Lorenzo

http://www.sanlorenzomaggiore.com/
Address: Corso di Porta Ticinese, 35, 20123 Milano, Italy
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0800-1830, Sunday, 0900-1900
Admission: Church, free, Capella di Sant’Aquilino, 2€
How To Get There: Tram, Ticinese Molino delle Armi, Line 3

The Art Lover’s Church

Rainy days aren’t usually fun days for tourists…especially when you are trying to go out and do some sightseeing! So, when I woke up from my nap in Milan and discovered that it was sprinkling a bit, what was I to do?

Grab an umbrella and raincoat and hit the streets, of course!

Since the weather forecast was not calling for the deluge to end any time that day, I reached into my bag of knowledge of local destinations and pulled out San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore.

Having researched this monastery a few times, I had also heard that it was not to be missed…and it was indoors! Perfect!

Reaching the metro station of Cadorna and consulting my map a few times, I was soon standing in front of the church’s unassuming gray stone facade on Corso Magenta.

Admittedly, it didn’t look like much.

Stepping through the doors, however, I must confess…my breath caught in my chest. An art lover’s dream, this church truly is magnificent. Being a person who has traveled the world and seen many religious institutions, I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything quite as beautiful with masterpieces covering every inch of the walls, ceilings, side chapels and altar area. It was absolutely difficult to discern which way to cast your gaze.

The church, standing on the site of a former place of worship, was constructed in the beginning of the 1500’s and is adjoined to the convent of the Benedictine nuns, the oldest female monastery in Milan. The rectangular nave is divided by a partition into two sections. The front section, which you see when you enter, is intended for the congregation’s worship and filled with artwork by major sixteenth century Lombard artists such as Bernardino Luini, who worked with Leonardo da Vinci, and his sons, Paolo Lomazzo, Ottavio Semino, Callisto Piazza and Simone Peterzano. The carved wooden altar is graced by the renowned Adorazione dei Magi (Adoration of the Magi) by Antonio Campi above it, dating back to 1578, one of the most outstanding pieces of artwork in the building.

Checking with the attendant that it was okay to photograph the area, she then made sure that I saw a sign pointing to a doorway near the altar. The Hall of Nuns.

Already in awe of what I was seeing, I was not sure I wanted to continue on to another area of the structure. Entering the doorway into a great hall, again, I was dumbfounded.

The Hall of Nuns was unlike anything I had ever seen. The long nave, flanked on each side by the wooden nun’s choir loft was presided over by a massive and obviously quite valuable pipe organ, designed by Gian Giacomo Antegnati in 1554, in the monk’s choir. Beautifully sculpted, the gold detail of the facade is only outdone by the two shutters on each side painted in tempera by Franscesco Medici.

Walking through the gallery, I was overloaded by the expanse of compositions that filled every inch of the walls, niches and ceilings. Truly breathtaking! Looking upward at the starry sky, with God, the Evangelists and angels, I made my way throughout the space, through the hall and behind the nun’s choir, finding my way back to the partition separating the Hall of the Nuns from the main congregation. Here, images by Bernandino Luini, of St. Catherine, St. Agatha, the Marriage at Cana and the Carrying of the Cross of Christ are presented.

Reluctantly leaving the space, I found my way into the location that formerly housed the Benedictine convent. Now the domicile of the Milan Archaeological Museum, many Roman remains, statues and parts of the Roman Circus can be found here. Deciding to save this for another day, I made my way through the courtyard, quickly checking out the relics that lined the area and back into the rainy day.

Glancing back at the church, I couldn’t help but stop and feel glad that I had braved the elements and taken such an incredible and artistic walk through history.

Everyone wants to see the Duomo, but everyone should seek out Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore. Truly one of Milan’s gems!

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Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore

http://www.turismo.milano.it/wps/portal/tur/en/arteecultura/architetturaemonumenti/abbaziechieseebasiliche/chiesa_di_san_maurizio_al_monastero_maggiore
Address: Corso Magenta, 15, Milano
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 0930-1930
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro: MM1 (red line) Cairoli stop, MM2 (green line) Cadorna and Sant’Ambrogio stops. Tram: 16, 18, 19, bus number 50, 58, 94.

Ancient Ambrogio

Strolling through the quiet and picturesque neighborhoods of Milan is a peaceful experience.

There are countless churches throughout the city and many that I have earmarked to visit. As I wandered through the streets, I realized that I was near the Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio. Admiring the architecture and stopping every now and then for a picture or two, I took my time as I found my way to the church.

Suddenly, I turned a corner and realized that Sant’ Ambrogio was right before me.

There went the peace and quiet.

On this day, a flower market and a flea market was taking place in the church’s courtyard as well as on the grounds. Masses of people were milling about, buying plants, flowers and clothing and some just enjoying the beautiful, sunny day.

Making my way through the throngs of patrons, I tried to take in the basilica’s enormous atrium and hut shaped facade, flanked by two red brick bell towers, the 9th century Tower of the Monks (Torre dei Monaci, used by the monks to call of the faithful to the monk’s mass) and the canon’s 12th century bell tower, one taller than the other. Two loggias decorate the facade with the upper reserved for the bishops to bless the citizens. Archaeological remains line the walls and deserve a look…when not surrounded by annuals and perennials!

As I entered the basilica, I can say that it is both breathtaking in its beauty but also in its age. Construction of this masterpiece was begun at the end of the 4th century and is known as the oldest church in Milan. Built by St. Ambrose in 379-386, it was established in an area where numerous martyrs of the Roman persecutions had been buried and was originally named Basilica Martyrum.

The first thing you notice when entering the church is that there is no transept. The Romanesque-style church has a semi-circular apse and smaller, semi-circular chapels at the end of the aisles.

Walking along the outer edges of the church, I loved inspecting the many side chapels, including the Chapel of Saint Savina and the Chapel of Saint George which house relics of the saints. The Basilica’s crypt, located under the high altar, contains the remains of three saints, Saint Ambrose, Saint Gervasus and Protasus, all of which may be accessed and viewed. The church also houses the tomb of Emperor Louis II, who died in Lombardy in 875.

The Basilica’s interior also houses the Stilicho’s Sepulchre, a magnificent fourth century sarcophagus with decorated high reliefs and the Oratory of San Vittorio, a chapel built before the first basilica and incorporated during construction.

For an small fee (2€), you may enter the Oratory and view the archaeological remains and beautiful golden domed ceiling.

Though the basilica sustained damage during Allied bombing in 1943, the integrity of the church remains and is one that should be seen while in Milan. Take your time when visiting this magnificent and ancient structure. Hopefully, when you visit, it just might be a little quieter!

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Basilica di Sant’ Ambrogio

http://www.basilicasantambrogio.it/
Address: Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15, 20123 Milano, Italy
Hours: 0700-12:00 and 1430-1900
Admission: free
Admission: Oratory, €2.00
Getting There: Metro line 2 (green line), stop Sant’ Ambrogio. The church is situated just right in front of the exit of the metro. From the Duomo, about a 15 minute walk. Bus lines, 50, 58, 94.

The Crown of Puerto Vallarta

In many Mexican cities, you will find in the heart of that city…a square dominated by a church.

Puerto Vallarta is no different, though the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe sits on a smaller square, nestled away between many buildings. Called “one of the most endearing” of the city’s landmarks, it’s wrought-iron crown can be spied almost anywhere throughout the city and one that I absolutely wanted to visit during my visit to this coastal Mexican city.

In 1903, there was a small chapel located in the current location, dedicated to the Virgin Guadalupe, however, foundations were beginning to be laid for the current church. With the arrival of Father Francisco Ayala in 1915, it was suggested that the foundations be expanded for a larger temple than had been planned.

Walls and pillars were finished by 1917, however construction began in earnest in the early 1920’s. Though construction was halted temporarily in 1926, due to the Cristero War, it was resumed in 1930 with the addition of the dome. The entire building was completed in 1940 with the exception of the two towers. The chancel and organ were installed in 1951 and the main tower, topped with the wrought-iron crown, finally in 1952.

Although it has been speculated that the crown was designed to resemble one worn by Empress Carlota of Mexico, this has been found to be untrue. To “crown” the Parish, the current crown was placed on the main tower in 1965 and was designed by José Esteban Ramírez Guareño.

When walking through the city, you can see how beloved this landmark is as it is depicted in photos, shirts, logos and postcards. Many congregate near and in front of the church and you can hear the church bells rung by the sextants 30 and 15 minutes prior to each service. If you are lucky enough to be in Puerto Vallarta during Our Lady of Guadalupe Festival (Feast of Guadalupe, December 1 through December 12), you will notice that the bell ringing and and festivities reach a frenzied level. Processions advance through the streets, including dancing warriors, banners, music, singing and colorful floats depicting scenes of the Virgin and Juan Diego, the Indian peasant that she appeared to in 1531. Thousands of visitors descend upon the city and the streets are lined with vendors selling food, sweets, souvenirs, toys and more.

Take the time to admire the church from the square and other vantage points, however, be sure to take a moment to attend mass or just take a look around between services. The architecture is a mix of various styles…neoclassical, renaissance, baroque. The interior design is a tribute to the original Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City. Particular attention should be paid the to the idolized image of Our Lady of Guadalupe and a 1945 oil replica by Guadalajaran artist Ignacio Ramirez. Beautiful religious images are painted on wood throughout the structure, carved wooden confessionals stand proud and waiting and the elaborate marble altar are the main focus of the church.

There is much love and devotion in the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe. When visiting Puerto Vallarta, be sure to make it a priority!

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Our Lady of Guadalupe

http://parroquiadeguadalupevallarta.com/
Address: Calle Hidalgo 370, Centro, 48300 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico
Mass Schedule: Monday-Friday, 0730, 1200, 1900. Saturday, 0730, 1200, 1700, 1800, 1930, 2030. Sunday, 0630, 0800, 1000, 1200, 1830, 1930, 2030

Gothic Grandeur

As you walk onto the central market square in Haarlem, you are greeted with an impressive site and an important landmark…the Gothic-style St. Bavo’s Church.

Having visited this church once before, I was anxious to set foot inside and rephotograph the interior and gaze upon one of the things I most wanted to see again, the Muller organ.

One of the most historically important organs, it was decorated by artist Jan Van Logteren and built by Amsterdam organ builder, Christian Muller between 1735 and 1738. At its completion, it was the largest organ in the world, played by many famous musicians including Mendelssohn, Handel and Mozart, at the early age of 10, and described by Herman Melville in the book, Moby Dick:

“Seeing all these colonnades of bone so methodically ranged about, would you not think you were inside of the great Haarlem organ, and gazing upon its thousand pipes?”

Though I have yet to be present for one of the concerts held regularly in the church, it is something that I aspire to attend in the future as all through the year, special opening times are organized so that the public can walk in free of charge to listen to the famous organ in action.

Originally a Catholic cathedral consecrated in 1559, St-Bavokerk was converted to Protestantism in 1958. Walking through the interior of the church, it is hard to fathom that this expansive church was once a Catholic cathedral. Lacking the embellished ornamentation that you usually find in most cathedrals, the only commonality would be the stained glass windows, however, the lack thereof is a source of interest. Haarlem was once an important center for stained glass in the 16th century, however, many of the original windows, have been lost to neglect. Today, the lack of historic, colorful windows has been remedied by installing windows from other, demolished or defunct churches. In addition, modern artists have created new pieces…a beautiful, large blue window hangs on the northern side and can be seen when entering the double doors on the Groenmarkt and was created by local glass artist Michel van Overbeeke.

Throughout the church’s floor, a large number of carvings can be seen marking the graves of many illustrious Haarlemers. Until 1831, graves were allowed within the church and many plaques hanging on the walls represent the shields of illustrious families and mark the family’s graves below them. Many famous people are buried in individual graves within the church such as Pieter Teyler van der Hulst and Willen van Heythuisen. Other notorious burials include painters Frans Hals and Maarten van Heemskerck and two circus curiosities, the giant Danial Cajanus and his midget friend Jan Paap.

Lastly, moving from the interior to the market square, take in the Gothic exterior and the low buildings built up against it, most notably the former fish market, De Vishal, now used for modern art exhibitions. The most striking piece of architecture is the Grote Kerk Tower which houses a big bourdon bell that sounds on the hour. A short tune is also played every seven and half minutes. Other bells include a carillon which is played weekly on market days. On Tuesdays in the summer, a concert of the carillon is held just before the weekly organ concert.

After your visit, step out into the Grote Markt and take in the statue of Laurens Janszoon Coster, the inventor of a printing press from Haarlem, believed to have done so simultaneously with Johannes Gutenberg (see my post, Germany, Mainz, Museum Time in Mainz). Grab a bite to eat at the many resturants that line the square and check out the many things to see in the history rich city.

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St. Bavo’s Church (Grote Kerk)

http://www.bavo.nl/
Address: Grote Markt 22 (noordzijde), 2011 RD Haarlem
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 1000-1700, August and September, also Sundays 1200-1700
Admission: Adults, €2.50, Youth (12-16 years), €11.25, Children (0-12 years), free, Guided Tour, Adults, €5.00

Passing the Time

Going for a visit to the Anne Frank museum while in Amsterdam? Be prepared for a looooonnnnnggggg wait.

Since the admission line will head down the street and onto the square, Westermarkt, here’s a way to pass the time. If there are a few people in your party, have one person hold your place in the line and the rest of you can duck into the church next door.

Westerkerk, a Reformed church within the Dutch Protestant church was built between 1620 and 1630 according to designs by Hendrick de Keyser and was one of the first purposely built and largest Protestant churches in the Netherlands.

Though very unlike the ornate and beautiful catholic churches we see throughout the world, Westerkerk has a grand, yet simplistic beauty. Walking through the entire structure, take in the large wooden pulpit, carved woodwork, massive chandeliers and the piece that always seems to steal the show in Protestant churches, the organ.

As music was considered profane during the early years of the church, the organ was not part of the interior when the church was consecrated. Located in the rear of the church, the organ’s construction was begun in 1681 by organ builder Roelof Barentszn Duyschot and finished by his son, Johannes. In 1727, the organ was enlarged with a third keyboard and many alterations were done over the years. If you are visiting during the months from April to October, a free weekly lunchtime concert is held on Fridays at one o’clock and a free concert is held almost every day in August where a collection is taken for the costs of the maintenance of the concerts and the organ.

Another smaller, choir organ is also located in the front of the church. This organ, introduced for cantata services was introduced in 1963 by D.A. Flentrop.

One of the most notable items in the church is the memorial shield on the left nave wall, which is a symbolic mark of the grave of the famous Dutch painter, Rembrandt. Living nearby at Rozengracht 184 in extreme poverty, he was buried in an unmarked church grave with several other people in the church. The exact location of his grave remains unknown.

Moving to the outside, the Westerkerk Tower, built in 1638, can be seen from most of the Old City center. Standing 85 meters tall, it is the highest church tower in Amsterdam and can be climbed during the summer months. Lucky enough to have a beautiful, sunny day, I crossed the Prinsengracht Canal, where the steeple and bright blue colored crown can be best viewed. Since the tower has remained municipal property, you may notice a large national flag hanging from the top of the tower on all important days for the city.

Other things that you can check out in the immediate area are the Anne Frank statue located on the Westermarkt and the entrance to the Prinsenhuis, which once served as the entrance to the Westerkerk. The Lord Mayor’s gate is still visible on the Westermarkt side of the church and was once used as a shortcut for the mayors of the city to reach their private stall inside the church (directly opposite the pulpit). The Homomonument is also a popular tourist attraction, commemorating all gay men and lesbians who have been subjected to persecution because of their homosexuality and is located behind the church, at the corner of the Westermarkt and Keizergracht.

Your wait for Anne Frank may be long, but there are a multitude of things you can see to pass the time. Take advantage of all of them!

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Westerkerk Church

http://www.westerkerk.nl/
Address: Prinsengracht 281, 1016 GW Amsterdam, Netherlands
Hours: 1100-1500 every day except Sunday. In October, hours are extended until 1530 and on Saturday, 1000-1730.
Admission: free
Guided climbs of the tower are held from June through September,1000 until 1930, every 30 minutes. Reservations advised. Tower admission, €7 and children under 6 are not admitted.
Every Tuesday from 1200-1300, a carillon concert on 42 bells is played from the Westerkerk Tower.

Tucked Away…

In the heart of the old part of Amsterdam there is a secret courtyard.

Protected from the noise of the nearby streets and canals, overrun by car, tram, bike, boat and tourist traffic, lies Begijnhof…a tranquil oasis.

Founded in the 14th century, Begijnhof was a home for the Beguines, members of a lay Catholic sisterhood. The members of the order, took a vow of chastity, attended mass everyday and promised obedience to the parish priest. Unlike nuns, however, the members did not take a vow of poverty, were free to come and go and were even allowed to leave and marry.

Today, their traditional wooden homes still stand in the courtyard and house about 105 single women.

Though Begijnhof has gained notoriety as one of Amsterdam’s top attractions, it is still relatively unknown. A few years ago, while riding down Spui, a friend had me park my bike and took me through the small unassuming entrance in the square.

So mesmerizing was it with its English Reformed Church and original medieval tower, garden areas and tall free-standing Dutch houses, it was hard to believe we were still in the center of Amsterdam.

Being quite late in the afternoon, we walked through the courtyard, admiring the beauty and continued on our way.

Last week, a beautiful, sunny winter day beckoned. Hopping on my borrowed bicycle, I headed towards the old town and soon found myself on Spui. Remembering my previous visit, I decided to try and find Begijnhof once again.

Surprised that my memory had not failed me, I was soon walking through the Spui entrance.

First inspecting the wall plaques depicting biblical themes, I then moved on to the statues that decorate the garden area.

Entering the English Reformed Church, one of the oldest structures in Amsterdam, I encountered a beautiful, old wooden interior. Above my head, I admired the blue beams and the lovely, iron chandeliers and toward the front of the church, the beautiful stained glass windows caught my attention. These colorful fenestrations depict and memorialize the Pilgrim Fathers who left to form a separate congregation in Leiden and then sailed on to Delfshaven, Plymouth and finally the New World on the Mayflower in 1620.

In the front of the church, on the left, there is handsome organ, as well as a monumental one at the rear of the church. Since the late 1970’s this organ has been used throughout the year for the performance of chamber music of all periods and styles and has also given many artist the opportunity to launch their careers, through the Academy of Begijnhof. While in the forward of the church, particular attention should be paid to the protected bible and the beautifully carved pulpit.

After leaving the church, I walked across the small courtyard into the Begjinhof chapel, dedicated to the Saint John and Saint Ursula. A Roman Catholic chapel run by the congregation of the Blessed Sacrament, it now resides across from its original location on the site of the English Reformed Church and is the starting point of the beginning of the commemoration of the Miracle of Amsterdam process each year.

The interior of this chapel has a Catholic appearance, with side chapels, splendid artwork, a central crucifix and a main altar. The atmosphere is hushed and many devout can be seen in a prayerful pose or lighting candles at the rear of the structure. A small gift shop is located at the right, in the rear of the church.

After exiting the chapel, I noticed flowers resting in the gutter. Curious as to why they were there, I found that the most famous beguine in Begijnhof’s history is sister Cornelia Arens, who died on October 14, 1654. Not wishing to be laid to rest in the chapel, which she considered “desecrated” by the Presbyterians, she chose instead to be buried in the gutter of the court. Contrary to her wish, she was buried in the chapel, however, legend states that her soul roamed the premises until she was finally buried in the location of her choice.

I next stopped by the snow covered green which is bordered by the majority of the homes of the residents of Begijnhof. Admiring the ancient structures, including the Houten Huys, the oldest house in Amsterdam (#34), I wondered what it would be like to live here with so many curious visitors walking through everyday.

So many sightseers walk through the premises every day, in fact, that signs are posted informing of the need for quiet, no photography or filming and respect of the occupants privacy. No organized tour groups, bicycles or pets are allowed. Most of the residents, however, look the other way for photography by private individuals.

Wrapping up my brief visit, I left, feeling peaceful and happy that I had returned for a more thorough inspection of Begijnhof. If you seek a different side of Amsterdam, definitely seek out Begijnhof.

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Begijnhof

http://www.nicolaas-parochie.nl/index.php?menu=3&page=94
Address: Begijnhof 30 – Amsterdam
Hours: Courtyard open 0900-1700, daily. Chapel, Monday, 1300-1830, Tuesday-Friday, 0900-1830, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-1800. Liturgy in English Reformed Church, Sundays, 1030.
Admission: free

Begijnhof

http://www.nicolaas-parochie.nl/index.php?menu=3&page=94
Address: Gedempte Begijnensloot, 1012 RM Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Hours: Monday, 1300-1830, Tuesday to Friday, 0900-1830, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-1800
Admission: free

High On A Hill

Sitting high on a hill in Paris is a beautiful, white church. The Sacre Coeur.

The Roman Catholic church and minor basilica, designed by Paul Abadie, took thirty-nine years to complete and is one of the most visited landmarks in the city behind the Eiffel Tower. Not only dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, the basilica represents a penance for the defeat of France in the 1871 Franco-Prussian War and the socialist Paris Commune of 1871. From its vantage point on the Butte Montmartre, it is the recognized center of one of Paris’s most famous neighborhoods.

Montmartre is one of my favorite places in Paris. I love watching the artists paint in the Place du Tertre, the hoards of tourists and sampling the fabulous array of food choices. I love strolling the park-like setting of the Montmartre cemetery, strolling by Van Gogh’s former apartment, the Moulin de laGalette and then posing with the Passer Through Walls statue. My favorite thing, however, is paying a visit to the remarkable Sacre Coeur.

A most beautiful basilica, I am always quieted by its interior with dazzling mosaics, colorful stained glass windows and handsome organ, built by Aristide Cavaillé-Coll.

Though we did pass through the interior, our main reason for coming to the Sacre Coeur was to visit the Dome.

Paying our entrance fees, we began the arduous climb (over 300 steps) to the top of the Dome. Though I had to stop a few times and my legs were quite shaky, we reached the top and Oh! What a view!

The entire city of Paris was spread before us from the forecourt of the Basilica. Earlier, we had seen the city from the level of the River Seine, now we were seeing it over 200 meters higher and from a different vantage point than the Eiffel Tower, the highest point in Paris. The entire city and countryside can be observed from the narrow balcony that circles the dome for a 360 degree view.

The upper architecture of the basilica can also be inspected from this perspective…the compelling rooflines, the rain diverting gargoyles and the adjacent lofty towers. And the best part…I could look down on the entirety of my favorite area, Montmartre.

Finally, we made our way down the three hundred (or so) stairs, a much easier journey down than up.

In Paris, there are many ways to spy upon the city…the Dome of the Pantheon, Montparnasse Tower, the Eiffel Tower, but go to the Sacre Couer for visions of one of the most interesting parts of the city! It’s a double deal…see the interior and the surrounding area.

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Sacre Coeur Basilica

http://www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com/english/
Address: 35, Rue du Chevalier De La Barre, 75018 Paris
Hours: Main Entrance, Esplanade of the Basilica, 0600-2230
Admission: Basilica, free. Dome, Adults €6, Children, €4 (4-16yrs)
Getting There: Metro: Jules Joffrin (M° 12) + Montmartrobus (Place du Tertre stop), Pigalle (M° 12, M° 2) + Montmartrobus (Norvins stop), Anvers (M° 2) + Cable car (métro ticket) or steps, Abbesses (M° 12) + Cable car (métro ticket) or steps. Bus: 30 – 31 – 80 – 85 (Anvers Sacré-Coeur bus stop at foot of Montmartre)

The Only One

Rome has many basilicas.

Amsterdam…only one.

Arriving in the Dutch capital via Amsterdam Central Station, one of the first landmarks you spy is the Basilica of St. Nicholas. Located to the left, in the Old Town district, its two towers mark the skyline.

Having always noticed this beautiful building, it was my desire to visit one day. Never quite having the time or being able to arrive before closing, due to its restrictive schedule, I realized that its door were open one afternoon, while passing nearby.

Built over 129 years ago, the city’s main Catholic church, was designed by architect, Adrianus Bleijs and was originally called St. Nicholas Inside the Walls as it sat within the oldest part of the Amsterdam defense works. It was elevated to basilica in 2012, during its 125th year of existence, during a celebration of Solemn Vespers.

Combining Neo-Baroque and Neo-Renaissance styles, the church’s exterior is easily recognizable with its two identical towers on either side of the ornate stained glass rose window. A domed baroque octagonal tower is adorned with a large cross. Above the rose window, a statue of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of Amsterdam and seafarers, can be spotted.

The basilica’s mixture of styles is carried on within the recently renovated church. Designed with a three-aisled layout the large baroque dome sits above the crossing.

Two chapels alongside the apse and the nave are devoted to Mary and Joseph and on both sides of the church and high above the altar, sits the crown of Maximilian I, a symbol seen throughout Amsterdam.

Take the time to inspect the beautiful religious murals that line the walls throughout the church, most importantly the 14 Stations of the Cross by Jan Dunselman which were painted from 1891 to 1898. Interestingly, Dunselman used the faces of parishioners as his models preserving their likenesses for future parishioners and relatives to appreciate. Other paintings commemorate the Miracle of Amsterdam and the Martyrs of Gorkum, 19 Catholic figures who were hanged in 1572.

The pulpit, an elaborately designed piece by Pierre Elysee van den Bossche highlights the left of the structure as well as the 19th century Sauer organ at the rear of the church. The German organ was built in 1889 and attracts large numbers of world renowned organists from around the world during the International Organ Concert Series every summer. These musicians treasure the opportunity to not only enjoy the music from this magnificent instrument, but to perform on it as well.

One last thing to note…when leaving the church, take look above you before crossing through the doorway. A beautiful little wooden sailboat hangs silently, reminding us of Amsterdam’s seafaring ancestry and the basilica’s patron saint.

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St. Nicholas Basilica

http://www.nicolaas-parochie.nl/
Address: Prins Hendrikkade 73, 1012 AD Amsterdam
Hours: Monday, 1200-1500, Tuesday-Friday, 1100-1600, Saturday, 1200-1500 and 1630-1745, Sunday 0945-1400 and 1630-1730
Admission: Free
Mass Schedule: Sunday, 1030, High Mass, 1300 High Mass (Spanish), 1700 Gregorian Vespers (Latin), Monday-Saturday, 1230 Mass, (Tuesday-English, Friday-Spanish), Thursday, 1800, Vespers and Mass, Saturday, 1700, Choral Evensong, English

Calling All Dan Brown Fans

A note on display in the church of St. Sulpice in Paris reads:

Contrary to fanciful allegations in a recent best-selling novel, this (the line in the floor) is not a vestige of a pagan temple. No such temple ever existed in the place. It was never called a Rose Line. It does not coincide with the meridian traced through the middle of the Paris Observatory which serves as a reference for maps where longitudes are measured in degrees East or West of Paris. Please also note that the letters “P” and “S” in the small round windows at both ends of the transept refer to Peter and Sulpice, the patron saints of the church, and not an imaginary “Priory of Sion”.

If you are a fan of Dan Brown’s 2003 novel, The Da Vince Code, then, this note will make complete sense. Since the release of the international bestseller and the subsequent movie, crowds of tourists have flocked to Saint-Sulpice, in the City of Lights, to see the Rose Line.

Admittedly, though a fan of churches, this is the real reason that I decided to visit St. Sulpice…not because it is the second largest church in the city (behind Notre Dame), not because the Marquis de Sade was baptized here or even to hear the renowned organists.

I wanted to see what the heck Dan Brown was talking about!

St. Sulpice, a Roman Catholic church in the Luxembourg Quarter, was founded in 1646 by parish priest Jean-Jacques Olier and the first stone was laid by Anne of Austria.

The Late Baroque church was built over the span of a decade with construction beginning in 1646. Various architects contributed to the multitude of designs and the interior structure was completed in 1745. Damaged and turned into a Temple of Victory during the Revolution, it was restored and redecorated in the 19th century.

Known for being the site of the christenings of Marquis de Sade and Charles Baudelaire and the wedding of author Victor Hugo, it is also known for its resplendent artwork and chapels.

Most noteworthy are the Delacroix frescoes in the Chapel of the Angels and Servandoni’s Rococo Chapel of the Madonna, with a Pigalle statue of the Virgin. Another chapel contains the tomb of Curé Languet de Gergy who founded the world’s first pediatric hospital and oversaw the completion of the house of worship. To the right of the entrance, take note of the two halves of an enormous shell. Functioning as holy water fonts, these were given to King Francis I by the Venetion Republic and rest on rock-like bases sculpted by Jean-Baptiste Pigalle.

The main focus of the church is its organ. One of the world’s largest, with 6,588 pipes, it was constructed by Aristide Cavaille-Coll, the case was designed by Chalgrin and the statues were made by Clodion. Having been played by many famous musicians, it is still known for its music and many concerts are still held in St. Sulpice to this day.

Once you’ve checked out these fascinating aspects of the church, it is time to see what Dan Brown referred to in his book.

Near the middle of the nave on the right side, near a stone statue with a Latin inscription, look for the meridian line…a narrow brass strip that runs north across the nave and transept to an obelisk next to the statue of St. Peter. Used to study the planets and determine the date of Easter each year, it works when the sun’s rays enter the church through a small opening in the south transept and rest on the line at various points throughout the year. On the winter solstice, the rays hit the obelisk. On the spring and autumn equinoxes, the rays hit the bronze table.

The Da Vinci Code depicts an important scene in St. Sulpice which takes place around the meridian line. An albino monk. Silas, searches for a keystone which is believed to unlock the secret of the Holy Grail. In the book, the meridian line is described as the Rose Line and explained as being the original zero-longitude line which passed through Paris before being moved to Greenwich, England. The monk, follows the line to the obelisk, only to find that he was misled in his search.

The meridian line was easy to find and there were many other visitors also taking a peek.

Envisioning the scene, it took me back to 2003 when I read the book in two days, so captivated by its story. I almost expected to see Silas, not only a monk, but an assassin, attacking Sister Sandrine!

Captivated by St. Sulpice, I spent more time walking around its interior and making sure not to miss any part of its beauty and history.

Exiting the building, I longed to see the fountain, designed by Visconti and which bears the sculptures of the four bishops of the Louis XIV era…Fenelon, Massillon, Bossuet and Flechier, however, a Christmas market was being set up in the square in front of the church. The area around the fountain and market was barricaded, not only prohibiting a close-up look at the fountain, but a wider-angled views of the façade of the church and its two mismatched towers.

When in the Luxembourg Quarter, in the 6th arrondissement, follow the signs (or the Rose Line!) to St. Sulpice. Dan Brown or not, it is a church most worth visiting in Paris!

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St. Sulpice Church

http://pss75.fr/saint-sulpice-paris/
Address: Place Saint-Sulpice, 2, rue Palatine, 75006 PARIS
Hours: Daily, 0730-1930
Admission: free
Masses are held Monday-Saturday, 0700, 0900, 1205, and 1845; Sunday, 0700, 0900, 1030, 1205, 1845
How to Get There: Metro stop, Saint-Sulpice. Buses 58, 63, 70, 86, 87, 89, and 95 stop near the church.