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Strolling through the quiet and picturesque neighborhoods of Milan is a peaceful experience.
There are countless churches throughout the city and many that I have earmarked to visit. As I wandered through the streets, I realized that I was near the Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio. Admiring the architecture and stopping every now and then for a picture or two, I took my time as I found my way to the church.
Suddenly, I turned a corner and realized that Sant’ Ambrogio was right before me.
There went the peace and quiet.
On this day, a flower market and a flea market was taking place in the church’s courtyard as well as on the grounds. Masses of people were milling about, buying plants, flowers and clothing and some just enjoying the beautiful, sunny day.
Making my way through the throngs of patrons, I tried to take in the basilica’s enormous atrium and hut shaped facade, flanked by two red brick bell towers, the 9th century Tower of the Monks (Torre dei Monaci, used by the monks to call of the faithful to the monk’s mass) and the canon’s 12th century bell tower, one taller than the other. Two loggias decorate the facade with the upper reserved for the bishops to bless the citizens. Archaeological remains line the walls and deserve a look…when not surrounded by annuals and perennials!
As I entered the basilica, I can say that it is both breathtaking in its beauty but also in its age. Construction of this masterpiece was begun at the end of the 4th century and is known as the oldest church in Milan. Built by St. Ambrose in 379-386, it was established in an area where numerous martyrs of the Roman persecutions had been buried and was originally named Basilica Martyrum.
The first thing you notice when entering the church is that there is no transept. The Romanesque-style church has a semi-circular apse and smaller, semi-circular chapels at the end of the aisles.
Walking along the outer edges of the church, I loved inspecting the many side chapels, including the Chapel of Saint Savina and the Chapel of Saint George which house relics of the saints. The Basilica’s crypt, located under the high altar, contains the remains of three saints, Saint Ambrose, Saint Gervasus and Protasus, all of which may be accessed and viewed. The church also houses the tomb of Emperor Louis II, who died in Lombardy in 875.
The Basilica’s interior also houses the Stilicho’s Sepulchre, a magnificent fourth century sarcophagus with decorated high reliefs and the Oratory of San Vittorio, a chapel built before the first basilica and incorporated during construction.
For an small fee (2€), you may enter the Oratory and view the archaeological remains and beautiful golden domed ceiling.
Though the basilica sustained damage during Allied bombing in 1943, the integrity of the church remains and is one that should be seen while in Milan. Take your time when visiting this magnificent and ancient structure. Hopefully, when you visit, it just might be a little quieter!
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Basilica di Sant’ Ambrogio
- http://www.basilicasantambrogio.it/
- Address: Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15, 20123 Milano, Italy
- Hours: 0700-12:00 and 1430-1900
- Admission: free
- Admission: Oratory, €2.00
- Getting There: Metro line 2 (green line), stop Sant’ Ambrogio. The church is situated just right in front of the exit of the metro. From the Duomo, about a 15 minute walk. Bus lines, 50, 58, 94.