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There are many ancient basilicas throughout Italy.
There are many ancient basilicas in Milan.
Take your pick!
One of the oldest basilicas, San Lorenzo, is located in the southern part of the city of Milan near the canal district.
Originally built between the late fourth and early fifth century, the basilica boasts the highest dome in the city and lies opposite sixteen Corinthian marble columns, Colonne di San Lorenzo, the few remains of the Roman “Mediolanum” which date from the 3rd century AD.
Walking alongside these columns, I admired their everlasting strength and symmetry and turned to pass through the piazza in front of San Lorenzo. Here, I was greeted by a copy of the Emperor Constantine, the first emperor to convert to Christianity, standing tall and proud and ready to greet the hoards of young people who congregate here each afternoon and evening.
Entering the church, my first impression of the octagonal nave was one of a modest interior. A majestic gold altar, stands in the center, however the dark, grey stone innards is a far reach from many other churches’ beautifully painted interiors, more specifically San Maurizio, which I had visited earlier in the day.
As I walked around the exterior walls of the church, I discovered many interesting statues and small chapels, however, I also discovered what this church is known for. The Cappella di Sant’Aquilino (Chapel of St. Aquilinus).
After paying my entry fee of 2€, I discovered in this beautiful sanctuary, fourth century Byzantine mosaics on the walls and niches. One interesting mosaic in particular depicts a beardless Christ and another has crumbled away to reveal the artist’s drawings beneath.
A lovely, glass encased sarcophagus sits below a magnificently painted domed ceiling and is said to hold the remains of Galla Placidia, the wife of Ataulf, the king of the Visigoths and sister of Honorius, the last emperor of Rome.
After seeing two other tourists duck behind the sarcophagus I went to investigate, discovering a stairway leading down below the church. There, in the dusty crypt-like room, is a most fascinating find…the original foundations of the church. These ancient foundations were transported here from a Roman amphitheater and were the beginnings of San Lorenzo.
Ascending back up the stairs and through the chapel, I took time to reinspect central part of the church once again, realizing that I had missed the pipe organ, built by Pietro Bernasconi. This fascinating organ with two keyboards, was built with materials re-used from the previous organ built in 1840 by Felice Bossi, which in turn had borrowed parts from an earlier organ by Antonio Brunelli II. This original organ is believed to be from the church of San Giovanni in Conca.
As I exited the doors into the rainy afternoon and stared out at the Roman columns towering before the church, I realized that though not one of the most ornate basilicas in Milan, San Lorenzo is definitely one of the most interesting. When visiting this ancient basilica, be sure to spend the extra money and visit the Chapel of St. Aquilinus…truly the jewel in this masterpiece.
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Basilica di San Lorenzo
- http://www.sanlorenzomaggiore.com/
- Address: Corso di Porta Ticinese, 35, 20123 Milano, Italy
- Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0800-1830, Sunday, 0900-1900
- Admission: Church, free, Capella di Sant’Aquilino, 2€
- How To Get There: Tram, Ticinese Molino delle Armi, Line 3