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Many years ago, I visited the Duomo on one of my first trips to Milan. Of course I did…isn’t that what all first-time visitors to Milan do?
Over the years since, I’ve walked by the massive cathedral and sat in the square admiring its magnificence. The intricate carvings and towering spires dominate the skyline and mesmerize. It is almost unfathomable to imagine the skill and patience required to create this masterpiece, yet, as you stand near the structure and gaze upward, there are so many small details that comprise the fabrication…so many, in fact, that you can always see it in a new light every time you visit.
So many lives were dedicated and lost to this incredible building, most never seeing the completion as it took an astounding 582 years to build. Standing on the site of not one, but two other churches, St. Maria Maggiore and Basilica of St. Tecla, the Duomo certainly resides on the holiest ground and is one of the oldest Christian buildings in Europe. Here is where St. Ambrose baptized St. Augustine and the Battistero Paleocristiano can still be visited under the Cathedral.
Deciding that it was time to visit again, I set off on the metro destined for the fifth largest Christian church in the world and Milan’s most famous landmark.
Arriving in the front of the building, an extensive queue snaked from the front to side where tickets were required to enter the queue. After a quick walk to the ticket office at the Sala Delle Colonne, we soon had tickets in hand and were back to the line. Moving rather quickly, our bags were inspected at the door and we were then admitted into the cathedral.
The Duomo is a massive space with much so much to investigate, I strongly suggest giving yourself ample time for your visit. Starting on the right side of the cathedral, we made our way inside the darkened space, stopping to pay our respects to the sarcophagi and burial places of former Cardinals and Archbishops of Milan.
Rounding the back of the cathedral in the retro-choir, a 1:1 scale copy of the statue of Madonnina (located at the highest point atop the Duomo) is located. Standing before the vibrant and beauteous stained glass windows, the statue is said to offer protection to whomever finds joy while gazing at her. “Those who come to Milan remain astonished at her light; those who leave, carry her with them forever”.
The organ, built in 1938 and one of the largest is the world, is a sight to behold as well as the ghastly statue of Bartholomew Flayed, designed by Marco D’Agrate in 1562, with his flayed skin thrown around his shoulder in a stole-like fashion.
As you scrutinize the extraordinary altar, make sure you look for the red light in the dome above the apse which illuminates the spot where one of the nails from the Crucifixion of Christ resides. Every year, the Holy Nail is retrieved from this location and placed on exhibition for the public during the celebration of the Rite of the Nivola.
Beneath the choir, the crypt of Charles Borromeo, the former archbishop (1564-1584) and cardinal, is accessible via a short stairway. No pictures are allowed. The Cathedral Treasury (Tesoro del Duomo) is also located in this area and a separate entrance fee of €1 is required for entrance.
Once we had seen the entirety of the interior, we made our way down into the Archaeological Area beneath the front of the church, which was included in our ticket. The excavated ruins include both the Cathedral of St. Thecla and the 4th century Battistero Paleocristiano, where the octagonal baptismal font can be observed in the center. Pieces of fresco, mosaics and other artifacts can be seen as well as a few well-preserved tombs.
Since the day was nearing its close, we made our way out of the building and to the cathedral’s right side, to the elevators which would take us to the top of the Duomo. Excited for this part of our visit, I could not wait to see an area of the cathedral that I had not seen prior.
After what seemed like an interminable wait, we finally entered the lift and made our way to the top. Following the crowds along the roof line, we were able to set our sights on the thousands of statues and flying buttresses that make up the cathedral’s summit. More than 3,400 statues, 135 gargoyles and 700 figures can been seen crowning the spires and breathtaking views of Milan and the snow-capped Alps can be admired on clear days. Walking along the rooftop terrace, you can also gaze at the top of the cathedral’s highest spire, and see the original Madonnina, keeping watch over the city. Truly the perfect way to end our day!
Although we did not make it to the Museo del Duomo, also included in our ticket, we were happy to have explored most of what the Duomo offers…besides…it leaves something for another day!
Truly a marvel, the Duomo should not be missed on a stop in Milan. Visited and written about by so many writers (Oscar Wilde and Henry James), it has captivated attention for centuries, most notably Mark Twain’s, who described it best. “What a wonder it is! So grand, so solemn, so vast! And yet so delicate, so airy, so graceful! A very world of solid weight, and yet it seems …a delusion of frostwork that might vanish with a breath!”
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Duomo
- http://www.duomomilano.it
- Address: Piazza del Duomo, 20122 Milano, Italy
- Hours: Duomo, 0800-1900, daily
- Hours: Crypt of St. Charles, Monday – Friday, 1100-1730, Saturday, 1100-1700, Sunday, 1330-1530
- Hours: Museo del Duomo, 1000-1800, Tuesday- Sunday
- Hours: Terraces, 0900-1900, daily
- Hours: Archaeological Area, 0900-1900, daily
- Admission: Duomo Pass A, Includes Cathedral Terraces by Lift, Duomo Museum, Archaeological Area, San Gottardo Church, €16.00-€8.00, Duomo Pass B, Includes
Cathedral Terraces on Foot, Duomo Museum, Archaeological Area, San Gottardo Church, €12.00-€6.00 - Ticket Offices: SALA DELLE COLONNE, Piazza del Duomo, 14/a, 0800-1830, daily and Palazzo Reale – Piazza del Duomo, 12 at the Grande Museo del Duomo, 0845-1800, closed Monday. Self service ticket machines are available at both locations.
- Getting There: From Central Station, take the Yellow Metro (M3) and get off at Duomo stop. From Cadorna Station, take the Red Metro (M1) and get off at Duomo stop. From Garibaldi Station, take the Green Metro (M2), change at Cardorna to the Red (M1) and get off at Duomo stop. The Duomo can also be accessed by trams 15 (Piazza Fontana stop), 2 and 14 (Via Torino stop) and 16, 24 and 27 (Via Mazzini stop).