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In the heart of the old part of Amsterdam there is a secret courtyard.
Protected from the noise of the nearby streets and canals, overrun by car, tram, bike, boat and tourist traffic, lies Begijnhof…a tranquil oasis.
Founded in the 14th century, Begijnhof was a home for the Beguines, members of a lay Catholic sisterhood. The members of the order, took a vow of chastity, attended mass everyday and promised obedience to the parish priest. Unlike nuns, however, the members did not take a vow of poverty, were free to come and go and were even allowed to leave and marry.
Today, their traditional wooden homes still stand in the courtyard and house about 105 single women.
Though Begijnhof has gained notoriety as one of Amsterdam’s top attractions, it is still relatively unknown. A few years ago, while riding down Spui, a friend had me park my bike and took me through the small unassuming entrance in the square.
So mesmerizing was it with its English Reformed Church and original medieval tower, garden areas and tall free-standing Dutch houses, it was hard to believe we were still in the center of Amsterdam.
Being quite late in the afternoon, we walked through the courtyard, admiring the beauty and continued on our way.
Last week, a beautiful, sunny winter day beckoned. Hopping on my borrowed bicycle, I headed towards the old town and soon found myself on Spui. Remembering my previous visit, I decided to try and find Begijnhof once again.
Surprised that my memory had not failed me, I was soon walking through the Spui entrance.
First inspecting the wall plaques depicting biblical themes, I then moved on to the statues that decorate the garden area.
Entering the English Reformed Church, one of the oldest structures in Amsterdam, I encountered a beautiful, old wooden interior. Above my head, I admired the blue beams and the lovely, iron chandeliers and toward the front of the church, the beautiful stained glass windows caught my attention. These colorful fenestrations depict and memorialize the Pilgrim Fathers who left to form a separate congregation in Leiden and then sailed on to Delfshaven, Plymouth and finally the New World on the Mayflower in 1620.
In the front of the church, on the left, there is handsome organ, as well as a monumental one at the rear of the church. Since the late 1970’s this organ has been used throughout the year for the performance of chamber music of all periods and styles and has also given many artist the opportunity to launch their careers, through the Academy of Begijnhof. While in the forward of the church, particular attention should be paid to the protected bible and the beautifully carved pulpit.
After leaving the church, I walked across the small courtyard into the Begjinhof chapel, dedicated to the Saint John and Saint Ursula. A Roman Catholic chapel run by the congregation of the Blessed Sacrament, it now resides across from its original location on the site of the English Reformed Church and is the starting point of the beginning of the commemoration of the Miracle of Amsterdam process each year.
The interior of this chapel has a Catholic appearance, with side chapels, splendid artwork, a central crucifix and a main altar. The atmosphere is hushed and many devout can be seen in a prayerful pose or lighting candles at the rear of the structure. A small gift shop is located at the right, in the rear of the church.
After exiting the chapel, I noticed flowers resting in the gutter. Curious as to why they were there, I found that the most famous beguine in Begijnhof’s history is sister Cornelia Arens, who died on October 14, 1654. Not wishing to be laid to rest in the chapel, which she considered “desecrated” by the Presbyterians, she chose instead to be buried in the gutter of the court. Contrary to her wish, she was buried in the chapel, however, legend states that her soul roamed the premises until she was finally buried in the location of her choice.
I next stopped by the snow covered green which is bordered by the majority of the homes of the residents of Begijnhof. Admiring the ancient structures, including the Houten Huys, the oldest house in Amsterdam (#34), I wondered what it would be like to live here with so many curious visitors walking through everyday.
So many sightseers walk through the premises every day, in fact, that signs are posted informing of the need for quiet, no photography or filming and respect of the occupants privacy. No organized tour groups, bicycles or pets are allowed. Most of the residents, however, look the other way for photography by private individuals.
Wrapping up my brief visit, I left, feeling peaceful and happy that I had returned for a more thorough inspection of Begijnhof. If you seek a different side of Amsterdam, definitely seek out Begijnhof.
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Begijnhof
- http://www.nicolaas-parochie.nl/index.php?menu=3&page=94
- Address: Begijnhof 30 – Amsterdam
- Hours: Courtyard open 0900-1700, daily. Chapel, Monday, 1300-1830, Tuesday-Friday, 0900-1830, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-1800. Liturgy in English Reformed Church, Sundays, 1030.
- Admission: free
Begijnhof
- http://www.nicolaas-parochie.nl/index.php?menu=3&page=94
- Address: Gedempte Begijnensloot, 1012 RM Amsterdam, The Netherlands
- Hours: Monday, 1300-1830, Tuesday to Friday, 0900-1830, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-1800
- Admission: free