© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.
The area near the Piazza Navona is one of my favorite places to visit when in Rome, for the activity, the food, the artists and the gelato.
But…I am not going to tell you about the Piazza Navona.
I’m going to tell you about a building that I pass every time I head there.
The Pantheon.
There are many churches in Rome. I have been to too many to count, however, one of the best preserved buildings in Rome is a church originally constructed as a temple dedicated to all the gods of pagan Rome. Dating back to between AD 118 and 125, the Pantheon was built after an original edition was destroyed by fire. As ancient as it is, this prodigious building has been in use since its construction.
Having visited many times before, I still like to take a look inside every now and then. Approaching the beautiful facade on my most recent trip, I am still mesmerized by the massive columns that line the portico. Walking among these is always quite inspiring, imaging those who came before me. Nothing, however, prepares you for those who have come minutes before…other tourists.
Massive crowds fill the interior every day seeking to inspect this architectural phenomenon. Though classified as a temple, it is unknown how worship was conducted here as it is quite different from many other ancient Roman temples. Today, though, many take a seat near the altar, head bowed in prayer and contemplation…appropriate as its inception as a church when Byzantine emperor Phocas bequeathed it to Pope Boniface IV in AD 608.
The best way to appreciate the Pantheon (while dodging the crowds), however, is to walk around the round structure while noting that remarkably, the diameter is the same as the interior height of the dome. The architecture is most fascinating as the structure is comprised of a series of intersecting arches resting on eight piers. The arches correspond to the eight bays which house statues.
Interspersed between the bays are the tombs of many famous figures from Italian history…painters Raphael and Annibale Carracci, composer, Arcangelo Corelli and architect Baldassare Peruzzi as well as the Italian kings, Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I. There are also many paintings that adorn the walls, the best known being the Annunication by Melozzo da Forli.
The most amazing part of the Pantheon, however, is the oculus and probably the first thing your eye is drawn to when entering. An engineering feat of its time, no other constructed before was as large. Still lined with the original Roman bronze, it is the main source of light for the entire building. As the oculus is open to the elements, rain does fall into the interior. Tourists should never fear, however, the slightly convex floor allows the water to drain into the still functioning Roman drainpipes beneath.
After my visit was complete, I stepped out into the piazza to take a better look at the fabulous temple from afar. The crowds were probably as thick here as they were inside, however, I was able to step up onto the raised platform that surrounded the amazing fountain that holds court in the center of the square.
After my photographs of the Pantheon were taken, I turned around to inspect the bubbling water behind me. Funny, as many times as I had walked through this piazza and visited the Pantheon, I had only ever glanced at the fountain due to the large crowds that surround it.
The Fontana del Pantheon was commissioned by Pope Gregory XIII and sculpted entirely out of marble. When the fountain was modified over a hundred years later, a new basin made of stone was installed and the Macuteo obelisk that you see today, was placed in the center. The original marble figures that were originally installed, were removed in 1886, replaced with copies and placed in the Museum of Rome. Much more beautiful up close!
If you are on your way to the Piazza Navona, or just in the area, step inside to see this incredible architectural gem and then have a seat around the beautiful fountain. Grab a gelato or a drink and relax for a while.
With so many visitors, you never know who you might meet!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Pantheon
- http://www.polomusealelazio.beniculturali.it/index.php?it/232/pantheon
- Address: Piazza della Rotonda, 00186 Rome
- Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0830-1930, Sunday, 0900-1800. Mid-week holidays, 0900-1300. Closed January 1, May 1, December 25.
- Admission: free
- Getting There: Take bus 117 and get off at Corso-Minghetti. The Pantheon is a 4 minute walk.
Entering the complex near the Arch of Titus, we discovered many paths throughout to survey the area in its entirety, encompassing the two basilicas, Fulvia Aemilia, a 100 meter public hall with a two-story porticoed facade dating back to 179 BC and Basilica Julia, built by Julius Caesar on the site of Basilica Sempronia in 54 BC. The Tempio di Antonino e Faustina, erected in AD 141 and transformed into a church in the 8th century (Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Miranda) and the Temple of Romulus are two of the most intact buildings on the premises. Near the Temple of Romulus, you will find the Basilica of Maxentius, the largest building on the forum, originally measuring 100 meters by 65 meters.
Also on the Via Sacra, we discovered the Casa delle Vestali, the home of the virgins who tended the sacred flame in the Tempio di Vesta. These priestesses, aged between six and ten years, were selected from aristocratic families to serve in the temple for thirty years. So great was the responsibility of keeping both the flame and their virginity intact that the penalty of flogging and/or death was imposed for those who did not adhere to the orders. The statues which honor these virgins line the Via Sacra and though most are in good condition, a many are missing their heads.
At the end of the Via Sacra, we came upon the Arco di Settimio Severo, a 23 meter high structure, built in AD 203 and dedicated to the emperor and his two sons, Caracalla and Geta. The arch commemorated the Roman victory over the Parthians.
The remains of the Rostri could be seen in front of the arch. This elaborate podium was the site of Mark Antony’s famous, “Friends, Romans and countrymen…” speech. Facing the Rostri is the Colonna di Foca (Column of Phocus) which fronts what once was the Forum’s main square.
Palatine Hill is connected to the Forum and at the center of the seven hills of Rome. Standing above the Forum, it was once the place where Imperial palaces were built. Heading uphill, we made our way through the grounds.
The Houses of Augustus and Livia, are still standing and in good condition and house some impressive art and frescoes. Tours of both of these impressive structures are available, however, advance tickets were required and we were not in possession. If you can secure them ahead of time, it is worth the effort in order to check out Augustus’ private study.
The Palatine Museum is also open to the public and contains a display of Roman statuary and findings from the hippodrome, however, being the end of our day, we decided that this would have to wait until another visit.
Having been to this architectural phenomenon at least five or six times, I never tire of seeing its structural prowess which has withstood the elements for so many years. I enjoy meandering through the passageways and gazing out on the arena which was the site of much action in its early years.
The Colosseum is the largest amphitheater in the world, measuring 186 meters long, 156 meters wide and 50 meters high!
There were three stories, each containing columns of a different style. The bottom columns were from the simple Doric order, the center, Ionic and the top, Corinthian. 
The emperor’s enjoyed the entertainment so much that they not only organized the events but also paid for them, allowing for the free entry of those desiring to attend. By also providing food, they ensured their popularity and support.
Emperor Vespasian’s son, Titus, was the first to hold games to commemorate the completion of the Colosseum. These games continued for 100 days. Gladiatorial games continued until the fifth century and animal hunts until the sixth.
Those with weak constitutions were not encouraged to attend as many events were quite brutal. During certain games held by the emperors, around 10,000 animals were killed in a single day.
A large number of rooms and underground passages were located beneath the Colosseum. Here, gladiators and animals waited to meet their fate. There were also thirty-six trap doors which could be used for special effects. 
Restoration efforts began in the 1990s and can still be seen continuing today. Funding from the admittance of thousands of visitors each year allow for the preservation of this mighty monument.
There is a ticket booth within the Colosseum, however, you can avoid waiting in line twice, once for the ticket purchase and once for entry. A new ticket office has been opened across from the Colosseum and alongside the entrance to the Roman Forum. After purchasing ticket, make sure to enter the line for entrance at the Colosseum. Tickets can also be purchased online and and by telephone.
After a beautiful drive through the Italian countryside, we pulled into the winery property. One of the owners, Michelle, greeted us warmly and showed us the grapes growing at the rear of the property. She explained the different varieties and showed us some that were beginning to ripen.
Finally, we took a seat in the quaint tasting room and began to sample their fare, beginning with two whites, moving on to Prosecco and then finally their reds. Each, truly more delicious than the last!
Our hosts, Roberto and Michelle, were friendly and kind and despite our lack of Italian and their sometimes limited English, made us feel so at home.
The church of San Babila was built on its current site in 1095, to house these relics, and extended with additional construction at the front and a new baroque facade. Though much of its original style has been lost during renovations, the church still retains its original medieval feel. During the 19th century, the complex was renovated with the aim of restoring the appearance of the medieval basilica and in the early 20th century the Neo-Romanesque facade by Paolo Cesa-Bianchi was built. The bell tower was eventually added in 1920 to replace the original tower which had fallen in the 16th century.
With the many grand churches throughout Italy, it was quite surprising when I entered, that San Babila was a very simple, mostly unadorned church. The interior has a nave and two aisles with two side chapels that date from the late Renaissance. Pay particular to the right aisle as it has an image of the Madonna, highly esteemed by the Milanese community. Also particular to note are some lovely medieval frescoes, Renaissance windows and beautiful mosaics.
If traveling in this area of Milan and happen to enter or exit at the San Babila metro, take a moment to stop in and relish the quiet beauty.
Established in the 5th century, the basilica was formerly dedicated to both Saints Zechariah and Stephen, though eventually given over to the latter. The original building was constructed around the year 417, destroyed by fire in 1070 and rebuilt in the Romanesque style in 1075. Since 1594, many reconstructions, expansions and restoration have been completed including enlargement of the apse and the main altar, lengthening of the nave and reconstruction of the facade, reconstruction of the bell tower by architect Gerolamo Quadrio and the construction of the sacristy and the modernization of some chapels.
St. Stefano is most famous for the many saints interred within its walls, most notably, San Carlo Borromeo and for two major events that occurred in the church. The Duke of Milan Galeazzo Maria Sforza was assassinated by four conspirators in 1476, under the medieval portico outside the church, as he visited the basilica for the celebration of the patron saint. The remaining pillar of the portico can be viewed in front of the belltower. Also, after years of speculation, the baptismal certificate from 1571, of the painter Michelangelo Merisi, better known as “Caravaggio”, was discovered in 2007 in the archival documents of the basilica, giving a definitive answer to the age-old question of his baptismal and birth place.
Though the basilica is very little known to tourists, it is easily accessible from the Piazza Fontana and quite impressive for its size and historical significance. Though the church is in desperate need of renovations, there are many items worth noting on its interior. Many of the side chapels contain beautiful and original stained glass and paintings and the altar is quite grand with its gold tabernacle. Also, be sure to note the imposing organ, the unique statues and the beautiful vaulted ceiling. Of particular interest is the life-sized bronze statue of Jesus on the cross, flanked by his mother and disciples, at the rear of the structure.
The small square chapel, a breathtaking area, was originally decorated with frescoes by Sebastian Ricci, an Italian artist. Today, you can still see his work…gaze upward at the incredible ceiling which depicts the Triumph of Souls Among Flying Angels and the glory of the four patron saints, Santa Maria Vergine, Santa Ambrogio, Santa Sebastiano and Santa Bernardino de Siena. The rest of the chapel is adorned with an altar and a niche with the statue of Madonna Addolorata (Our Lady of Sorrows) kneeling before the body of Jesus. Skulls and bones, believed to be the deceased from the hospital and corpses from seventeenth century cemeteries, are arranged in niches and on cornices, pillars and doors. Some are stacked “frame-like” appearing as oversized paintings in simple shapes while others are arranged in ornamental patterns, like skull and crossbones. The skulls that you observe in cases above the door are those of executed prisoners.
Remains interred near the altar are those of a young girl, who, according to legend, comes back to life on November 2nd, All Souls Day, and lures other skeletons in a morbid dance.
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Located near the intersection of Via del Gambero and Via della Mercede, San Silvestro, is hardly noticeable with other, more grand churches in the area. An unassuming building of a yellowish color with architectural details in limestone, its most notable features are the four baroque statues of San Silvestro by Lorenzo Ouone, Saint Stephen by Michelangelo Borgognone, Saint Clare by Guiseppe Mazzoni and Saint Francis by Vincenzo Felice at the apex. It doesn’t stand out or appear to be a church, however, as you approach from Piazza di San Silvestro, you realize that this is not the facade of the actual church. The street exterior lures you into an atrium which sequesters it from the busy Roman streets. The walls here are embedded and decorated with fragments of early Christian and pagan monuments and sculpture, many with inscriptions, obtained from excavations and restorations and the church’s entrance is at far side. Most interesting here is an ancient sarcophagus and several antiquated columns on the right side of the atrium.
In the 17th century, the 135-step staircase was designed by little-known architect and sculptor, Francesco de Sanctis. The steps, built during a two year span, from 1723 to 1725, were intended to connect the newly built Trinita dei Monti church, owned by the French, and the Piazza di Spagna, home of the Spanish Embassy, signifying the newly-established peace between France and Spain.
After leaving the church, I was determined to head toward the recently refurbished Fontana di Trevi (Trevi Fountain), but there was a brief detour that I was determined to make.
Making my way down Via Gregoriana, I finally headed to the Trevi Fountain to see it once again devoid of the scaffolding that had marred its beautiful veneer the last time I had walked past.
Like the Spanish Steps, the well-known Trevi Fountain has become a place where tourists and locals meet and hang out, grabbing a nearby gelato while admiring the roaring water cascading from the monument.
And, while you are at it, make sure to throw a coin from your right hand over your left shoulder and make a wish! It will ensure that you will return to Rome one day!