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So many churches, so little time.
That’s Rome for you.
With over 900 churches within the Eternal City’s limits, I am determined to try and see as many as possible. I love churches…can’t help it. You can take the girl out of Catholic school, but you can’t take the Catholic school out of the girl…besides, I really love the architecture!
While doing a little research, I stumbled upon a church, San Silvestro in Capite, not far from the Trevi Fountain, that claims to have the skull of St. John the Baptist. Of course, churches in Syria, France and Germany have also claimed to have the same relic in their possession, but since I was going to be in the area, I decided it was worth investigating.
Located near the intersection of Via del Gambero and Via della Mercede, San Silvestro, is hardly noticeable with other, more grand churches in the area. An unassuming building of a yellowish color with architectural details in limestone, its most notable features are the four baroque statues of San Silvestro by Lorenzo Ouone, Saint Stephen by Michelangelo Borgognone, Saint Clare by Guiseppe Mazzoni and Saint Francis by Vincenzo Felice at the apex. It doesn’t stand out or appear to be a church, however, as you approach from Piazza di San Silvestro, you realize that this is not the facade of the actual church. The street exterior lures you into an atrium which sequesters it from the busy Roman streets. The walls here are embedded and decorated with fragments of early Christian and pagan monuments and sculpture, many with inscriptions, obtained from excavations and restorations and the church’s entrance is at far side. Most interesting here is an ancient sarcophagus and several antiquated columns on the right side of the atrium.
The original church, built in the 8th century to house venerated relics of early Christian saints who were buried in the catacombs, was rebuilt in 1198 during the papacy of Innocent III. Later, during the 13th century, the church was donated to the Poor Clares Nuns. Rebuilt again during the six-year period between 1591-1601, the relics of Pope Sylvester I, Pope Stephen I and Pope Dionnysius were exhumed and re-enshrined beneath the high altar during the church’s consecration along with the relics of Saint Tarcisius, with the Poor Clares remaining in residence.
The Poor Clares, had two relics in their nunnery. The most well known is the head of St. John the Baptist and the other is a version of the ancient icon of Christ called the Image of Edessa, also known as the Holy Face of San Silvestro, an imprint on a cloth that Christ made of his face and had sent to King Abgar of Edessa (Turkey). The former was given a home in San Silvestro.
As I walked into the church, a wedding was in progress and I had to remain on the sidelines until its conclusion. Finally, making my way around the church’s midst, I marveled at the rich interior of marble, gilding and artistic decoration. Many beautiful works of art are in residence here including many frescoes; Assumption with Saints by Giacinto Brandi in the nave, the cupola by Cristoforo Roncalli, A Martyrdom of San Stephan I and Messengers of Constantine Call on San Silvestro by Orazio Borgianni in the apse, Baptism of Constantine by Ludovico Gimignani in the baptistry apse and History of San Silvestro by Gimignani and Madonna with Child by Baccio Ciarpi.
The high altar, by Carlo Rainaldi, which predates the present church, is believed to have been influenced by the style of Michelangelo, a friend of the artist. The main altar, also by Rainaldi, has a carved canopy, under which the relics from the catacombs are housed in the crypt. A medieval tablet listing the feast-days of the saints enshrined here is located in the loggia.
The church has many chapels dedicated to St. Anthony of Padua, St. Francis, St. Tarcisius, the Holy Spirit, Colonna, SS Marcellus and Joseph and the Crucifixion, each filled with paintings, lunettes, altarpieces and frescoes.
The most significant chapel, however, contains what I came in search of…the head of St. John the Baptist. The chapel is located at the front of the church with a separate entrance at the left of the church and also contains a stained glass depicting St. John’s head on a plate and a life-sized pieta. The reliquary is displayed on an altar behind bars to offer protection from overzealous visitors. Although the authenticity of the head is uncertain due to the claims of the churches in other countries, it is this particular head that has given the church its name in Capite (latin: head) and why it so many pilgrims make the journey to pay their respects. This one included.
- http://sansilvestroincapite.info/
- Address: Piazza di San Silvestro, 17A, 00100 Rome, Italy (Colonna). Located next to the Post Office building with the large clock on the facade.
- Admission: free
- Hours: Weekdays, 0700-1900, Sundays, 0900-1245, 1530, 1830
- Mass Times: Monday thru Friday, 1200, 1830 (Italian), Saturday, 1200, 1730 (Italian), Sunday, 1000 (English), 1200 (Italian), 1730 (Italian)
- Metro Stations: Barberini and Spagna