Category: Italy

For The Price Of A Train Ticket

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Where would you go for the price of a train ticket?

Rome has set the bar very high for me as far as Italian cities go. I never tire of walking through the city and finding that around every corner there is something bigger and better. I don’t ever feel as though I need to venture outside of the city.

Milan, however, was never a place that I could find footing with. In fact, I would complain (to anyone who would listen) about how much I hated going there. I always felt like I had to work extra-hard to find the things that make it Milan…and it was never just around the corner.

Over the years, I have done research and found those outstanding and sometimes hidden gems that make Milan special…there were more than I ever imagined and more of which I hope to come. Lately, however, I have stumbled upon an interesting fact. The trains in Milan are relatively inexpensive.

For the price of a train ticket, I could venture outside of Milan and discover so much more. That inexpensive ticket opens up lots of possibilities with so many charming Italian cities nearby that you can explore.

Having visited the city of Pavia, about a 45 minute journey from Milan, I had heard about Certosa di Pavia, one of the largest monasteries in Italy. In fact, I had seen it in the distance from my window on the train when I visited Pavia. Filling the skyline in the countryside, it appeared imposing and mysterious…I had to buy a train ticket to check it out!

Getting to the monastery was quite easy. The subway near my hotel, brought me to Garibaldi station and from there I was able to take a train straight to the Certosa di Pavia station. One there, it was about a 12-15 minute walk, following the path around the high monastery walls to the entrance.

Having discovered that a tour was offered at the opening times in Italian only, I was a bit disappointed that there were no others in English. Someone, however, gave me a bit of advice…take the tour in Italian. Even if you don’t understand any of it, you will get to see parts of the monastery that are not open to those not taking part in the tour.

Time to muster all of my Italian…and I promise, there’s not enough in my repertoire to understand a guide on a tour.

There were many visitors congregating at the entrance and right on schedule, someone was there to open the gates and allow everyone in.

Now, I have been to the Duomo in Milan many times and to this day, I am still awe-struck by its beauty and intricacies. This place definitely gives the Duomo a run for its money! Towering above the grass courtyard, it simply takes your breath away! Every nook and cranny of the structure’s facade is filled with reliefs, statues and inlaid carvings and you want to stand there and take in every minute detail.  

Heading inside, however, I was on a mission to make sure that I did not miss the tour. Mouth gaping at the larger than life-size statues dominating the dimly lit space, I obliged when beckoned by the monk behind the gates at the rear of the church.

Starting at the left side structure, our tour commenced with a request…no photographs. It was interesting however, to realize that the monks who reside in the monastery now are of the order of the Cistercians, those who have taken a vow of silence. How is it that this Cistercian monk was giving us a tour? It was later, that I learned that some of the monks have been released from their vow for the sole purpose of giving guided tours.

Moving throughout the spaces behind the gates, the monk guided us though each of the areas within the church probably informing our tour group of the important details about the church’s inception.

(My Italian lacking severely, I was busy sneaking photos, not even trying to comprehend what was being communicated!)

The monastery, built in 1396-1495, is one of the largest in Italy. Founded by the monastic order of Carthusians, the Certosa is vastly different in style than what the Carthusians were normally known for…simplicity of architecture.

Originally, the church was built to serve as a mausoleum for the Visconti family and was built in the Gothic style with a Latin cross plan, consisting of a nave, two aisles and transept. Indeed inspired by the Duomo of Milan, its crossed vaults on Gothic arches are alternately decorated with geometrical shapes and starry skies.

A fresco, Incoronation of Mary between Francesco and Ludovico Sforza can be seen in the main apse as well as other frescoes with saints and prophets. The Certosa also exhibits other painted masterpieces by Bergognone including the panels of St. Ambrose and San Siro and the Crucifixion. Some important paintings originally in the church have either disappeared or been disassembled and distributed among museums, including the National Gallery of London. Inside the Chapel of St. Michael, frescoes by Carlo Francesco Nuvolone can be inspected and there is an important collection of stained glass windows by 15th century masters, including Zanetto Bugatto, Vincenzo Foppa, Bergognone and Hans Witz. Many notable sculptural works can be found here including the carved wooden choir stalls, the marble altar frontals, a bronze candelabra by Annibale Fontana and a 16th century high altar.

The Chapel of St. Michael
The Chapel of St. Michael
The Chapel of St. Michael

The tomb of Gian Galeazzo Visconti can be found in the southern transept as well as the tomb of Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este in the northern transept.

The tomb of Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este
Reproduction of the tomb of Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este in the Museum of Certosa di Pavia
The tomb of Gian Galeazzo Visconti

Following the monk, we were awestruck by the portal with sculptures by the Mantegazza brothers, leading to the Small Cloister with a small garden in the center and the terracotta decorations on the small pilasters. The Grande Cloister was similarly decorated with the cells of the monks opening to a central garden. It was quite interesting (and moving) to walk through one of the monk’s cells to see just how simply they lived.

The Small Cloister
The Small Cloister
Fountain in the Small Cloister
Fountain in the Small Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The monk’s garden
A monk’s cell

After our tour was complete, I once again walked through the parts of the church that had caught my attention and finally made my way to the Museum. With free admission, the museum is worth taking the time to walk through and displays many of the Certosa’s impressive pieces and informs about the history the area. What I loved the most, however, is the plaster casts of friezes from the church’s facade. Here you can see, up close, what you can’t see with the naked eye due their locations high in the facade.

Finally, I headed into the Monastic Shop where the products made by the monks who reside at the monastery are sold. There is a large selection of herbal teas, alcoholic beverages, soaps, honey, religious icons and rosaries for purchase and you might spy one of those monks catching a nap in the corner, like I did!

Before heading out, I spent some time walking around the grounds in front of the church before heading out to make my way back to the train station.

Happy that I learned about the inexpensive price of Italy’s trains, I inserted my few euros into the ticket machine and purchased my return ticket, headed back to Milan, dinner and some much needed rest.

Most impressed by the Certosa di Pavia, this will most certainly be the first of many adventures outside of Milan!

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Certosa di Pavia

I ❤️ Oil

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Olive oil.

Say it, moving your mouth, but not emitting a sound.

It looks like your are saying, “I Love Oil”.

Well, if it is oil, as in olive oil…I do love it!

I will admit, I never knew a lot about what makes one olive oil better than another. Last year, standing in the olive oil section of a grocery store in Athens, I was stumped. I needed some to bring home, but I had no ideas as to which one was better than the next. Finally, a kindly older gentleman took pity on me and helped me pick out a couple of bottles. Situation solved on that trip.

But, yes, I definitely needed an olive oil education!

So, when my friend texted me and asked if I would be interested in joining her on an olive oil tour while we were both in Rome, of course, I said YES!

Heading out into to cold, wet May afternoon, it didn’t quite seem as though we were nearing the Italian summer months. Still, we had a plan and the wet stuff was not going to hamper our good time!

From the Tiburtina station, we caught a train to Fara Sabina where we would meet our tour guide, Johnny Madge, a Brit who has lived in the area since the early 80’s. A former marble sculptor, he has evolved into a world class olive oil judge after buying a farmhouse in the middle of an olive grove and learning everything he could about the small oval fruit.

Johnny, a good natured gentleman, first took us for a coffee (to help perk us up a bit) and then we headed out onto the small, dirt roads of the Italian countryside. Since the skies were growing darker by the minute, we decided to first head to the tree that bears the title of the Oldest Olive Tree in Europe…there are signs along the way to prove it, though the Olive Tree of Vouves in Crete would probably disagree!

This tree sits in the yard of one of the locals…not in an olive grove as you might expect. It was conveyed that owner will sometimes come out and say hello (anticipating a few coins for his trouble), but on this day, I am guessing that the weather kept him inside.

We ventured through his yard, passing his pet peacocks and his prized pizza oven (doesn’t every Italian have one in their yard?) and to through the small stone wall which protects the area around the gigantic tree, which is said to be about 2,000 years old and still productive. This tree’s girth is so large that it takes about five people to hug it and is hollow in the inside. The massive branches are so heavy and tall that the owner has taken some steps to give it some stability.

Continuing on our journey, we stopped at a nearby olive grove and inspected a mere baby…only 500 years old. Also, hollow, it provided for some fun souvenir photos!

Johnny was a wealth of information and continually pulled over to the side of the road to show us different herbs and flowers that are native to the region. It was amazing to realize how much someone can glean from the land…something us city folks don’t often think about!

Because it was a Sunday, we were unable to visit the places where the olives are sorted and made into olive oil, a little disappointing, but expected. As we pulled into the parking lot of one particular place of business, Johnny explained the pruning and picking process to us and how the olives are pressed into olive oil. He further went on to explain how the determination is made as to whether an olive oil is categorized as extra virgin or not…something I never knew!

Driving onward on the winding roads, we looked up on the ridge of the mountainside at the beautiful town of Toffia, with is church standing proudly at the highest point and a grotto devoted to the Blessed Virgin down below in the valley.

Driving to the entrance gate, we were able to snap a few photos as the rain came down upon us.

Next stop was the small town of Farfa. Bordered by olive groves on either side, this picturesque village with unique boutiques, quaint restaurants and pretty houses is also home to one of the most famous abbeys in Europe, belonging to the Benedictine Order. Entering the abbey, I wasn’t aware of its status at the time, but I knew it was something special…unlike anything I had seen anywhere before. The cathedral was divided into three naves and every surface covered in beautiful friezes, with a stunning lunette representing the Virgin and the Child in the middle. Several chapels line the exterior walls and the interior wall of the facade showcases a large canvas of Last Judgment (1571) by Flemish painter Henrik van der Broek.

Such an important, historic place, several kings (including Charlemagne), emperors and Popes (including most recently Pope John Paul II, 19th May 1993) have visited the Abbey throughout the centuries.

Guided tours are offered on in Italian every day except on Mondays and would be a great way to see all parts of the church, including the crypt entrance and the archaeological museum if you have the time as well as the surrounding grounds.

Wandering around the village we stepped into many of the artisan’s shops inspecting their beautifully hand-made wares…of course, Mother’s Day was coming up and some tea towels to wrap around olive oil bottles was a must!

Finally, with the sun getting lower in the afternoon sky, we headed to the town of Montopoli. It was here at a local pizza restaurant, where we finally sat with Johnny to have an olive oil tasting. Explaining to us how to slurp the oil to the back of our throats, it was there that we were looking for a burn, thus giving us the knowledge that it was indeed, extra virgin. Sampling three different olive oils with our delicious meal was the something new to me…I never thought that I could drink olive oil straight, something very good for us Johnny explained and I never realized how differently olive oil could taste.

With full bellies, we packed up our belongings into Johnny’s van and headed back to the Fara Sabina train station for our ride into the still wet Rome but with a greater knowledge of Italy’s olive oil!

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Johnny Madge

Benedictine Abbey of Farfa

  • http://www.abbaziadifarfa.com/
  • Address: Via del Monastero, 1, 02032 Castelnuovo di Farfa RI, Italy
  • Hours: 1000-1900. Guided tours are performed hourly every day except on Monday from 1000 to 1300 and from 1530 to 1830 (Sat. and Sun. 1500-1900 during Summer)
  • Admission: free

The Castle On A Cold Day

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

An impressive structure in the center of Milan, the Sforza Castle, built in the 15th century, is a must see while visiting the Italian city.

I have walked through the grounds many times but never gave a thought to the museum housed inside.

During the winter, it’s sometimes a struggle to find things to do when the weather is not optimum, so on a cold day, I finally decided to head over to check out everything the castle had to offer.

The castle, built by Francesco Sforza, the Duke of Milan on the remnants of a 14th century fortification, was built as a defensive castle. Throughout its history, it was destroyed, rebuilt and modified and was once one of the largest citadels in Europe. Today, the castle houses the Museums of the Castello and offers glimpses of masterpieces by Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and Bramante.

Allowing myself just two and a half hours to see what the castle had in store for me, I exited the Cairoli metro station and enjoyed the architectural monument laid out before me. Stopping for a moment to enjoy the modest fountain, which frames the castle’s facade, I then made my way through the Torre del Filarete and into the castle’s courtyard. Making my way around the castle walls, I inspected each of the circular keep-towers and some of the statues and architectural ruins scattered throughout.

Often the site of artisan and farmer’s markets and entertainment, this day was no exception with artist Thiago Gusi giving us music to sight see by.

Finally, entering the museum, I paid my admission and began my exploration. I have to say, the amount of art and sculpture displayed here was mind-blowing and I quickly realized that I really should have allowed more time.

I won’t try to describe each and every piece in the museum, but as I moved through each of the rooms, there was a plethora of outstanding sculptural works, tapestries, frescoed ceilings, tiled floors, suits of armor, stained glass and painted canvases. Stunned by the quality and quantity, I glanced at my watch and moved as expeditiously as I could.

Thinking that my tour was almost complete, I discovered that, yes, there was more!

Moving through the museum, I found a whole other section highlighting furniture and then another, with religious icons. Each and every piece was more spectacular than the last.

As I glanced through the window at the waning daylight, I realized that my two and a half hours had passed much too quickly.

Having walked through and near the castle so many times, why had I never ventured into the castle’s museums before?

With such an affordable admission price, it won’t be the last!

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Sforza Castle

  • https://www.milanocastello.it/
  • Address: Piazza Castello, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
  • Hours: Castle, 0700-1930. Castle Museum, 0900-1730. Closed on Mondays, December 25, January 1 and May 1.
  • Admission: May 16, 2019-January 12, 2020, full ticket 10€ , reduced 8€ , reduced first Sunday of the month 5€ . Ticket includes the entrance to all  the Castle Museums and Leonardo exhibitions. Free entry: every first and third Tuesday of the month from 1400. Guided tour every Saturday at 1500, 8€
  • Getting There: Metro, Cairoli (red line) , Cadorna (red and green line) and Lanza (green line) stations.

A Tale of Two Chinatowns

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Just how many Chinatowns are there in the world?

Having visited a large number of these districts on our globe, I have to say that when I searched for this information, I was surprised by how many exist.

Following the defeat by Britain in the first Opium War, in the mid-1840’s, a series of natural catastrophes, famine, uprisings and rebellions ensued in China. Thousands of Chinese left their homes in the search for opportunity in near and far away lands and many arrived on the west coast of the United States when news of the gold rush gave them hope for a better life.

Historically, the Chinatowns located in the United States have been located in larger cities such as New York City, Seattle, Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago and Los Angeles with one of the most famous in San Francisco. There are, however, many Chinatowns in other countries as well, including Argentina, Cuba, Mexico, Peru, Canada, Mauritius, South Africa, India, Indonesia, Iran, Iraq, Japan, Malaysia, Myanmar, Pakistan, Philippines, Singapore, South Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, Belgium, France, Italy, Netherlands, United Kingdom, Australia.

I have visited quite a few on the list and they are all quite different.

Recently, I had the pleasure of accompanying my son to San Francisco on his Spring Break trip. It had been many years since my last visit to the Golden Gate City, but the first thing I wanted to show him was Chinatown. As we approached the Dragon Gate on Grant Avenue, I was quite excited to see what changes the enclave had gone through over the years.

The Dragon Gate was given to the city by the Republic of China and is inscribed with a message from the President of the Republic of China. Though I have seen bigger and more elaborate gates, I love this one for its simplicity and park-like feel. As we walked through the gate onto into the streets filled with antiques, souvenir shops, bakeries, restaurants and artwork, the familiarity returned and I remembered my first trip to San Francisco, before I began to travel the world, when I felt as though I had really entered another country.

Making our way up Grant Street, criss-crossed above with red Chinese paper lanterns, I marveled at the architecture, street art and signage. There are many notable buildings within Chinatown, including the Sing Chong Building (the most photographed piece of architecture in the area), the Bank of Canton (the Old Telephone Exchange), the Tien Hau Temple (the oldest Taoist Temple, founded in 1852), Old St. Mary’s Church (oldest cathedral in California and built by Chinese laborers) and many other culturally inspired structures, including ones on the notorious Waverly Place, an alleyway that has been used in many films and holds the first U.S. Post Office established in San Francisco.

Sing Chong Building
Bank of Canton
Tien Hau Temple
Old St. Mary’s Church
Waverly Place

The street art is some of the finest I have seen in the world and it’s advisable to duck into small streets and alleyways…you never know what you may find!

One thing that I regret missing out on, however, was a visit to the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory. Having always been fascinated by the sweet cookies that are consumed after a Chinese meal, I thought it would be an interesting place to see how the cookies are made and to bring home a few to my family. Hard to find in a small alley, we passed it by, finally realizing when it was too late and time was slipping by quickly. Nevertheless, I will save this for another trip!

As the dinner hour approached, we later returned to Chinatown for an authentic meal, mesmerized by the swaying lanterns now lit for the darkened skies above the now quiet streets.

Visiting San Francisco’s Chinatown was such an enlightening experience, that when I visited Milan a couple of weeks later, I decided that I should check out the Italian version.

The day was just as brilliant as when I visited San Francisco and I looked forward to seeing how the two city’s Chinatowns compared.

Turning onto the pedestrian friendly, Via Paolo Sarpi, my interest was piqued and I glanced around hoping to spot a Chinese gate or inspiring Chinese architecture. Instead, what I found was what looked like a typical Italian street halfheartedly attempting to disguise itself as a Chinatown. Sure, there were the occasional signs which lend to the Asian perception and the intermittent paper lantern fluttering in the wind, but the over feeling is well…Italian…disappointing. Don’t get me wrong, I love Italian architecture, I was was just hoping for something much different. Try as I might, I just didn’t get the same warm and fuzzy feeling that I got when I visited San Francisco’s Chinatown.

The Chinese that reside here date back to the 1920’s and came from the Zhejiang region near Shanghai to work in the silk industry. Their descendants remained here, set up shop and offer a wide range of services and products, including 150 boutiques selling Oriental products, traditional tea shops and the large Kathay, the biggest store for ethnic food in Italy. It was here that I finally felt as though I was experiencing the true cultural phenomenon. As I browsed the shelves of authentic products, I found something that I had loved when visiting Hong Kong…sesame peanut brittle. Purchasing a small box, I secured a place on a bench surrounded by a floral shop and ate it slowly watching the activity on the street.

Finally, I walked around some of the side streets, hoping to find what I thought the neighborhood was lacking. Still confused, I thought, maybe if I had dinner here at one of the many restaurants, I could be swayed in my disappointing assessment.

Glancing around at the choices…I decided…

“Nah, I’d rather go have a pizza”.

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Chinatown San Francisco

  • http://www.sanfranciscochinatown.com/
  • Getting There: From Fisherman’s Wharf area, take the cable car to Chinatown. There are two locations for cable cars near Fisherman’s Wharf. The Powell-Hyde line (PH) and the Powell-Mason line (PM). The PH line is located near Ghiradelli Square at Beach and Hyde Street. The PM line is located at Bay and Taylor Street. Both lines intersect each other. Best place to get off is Washington & Mason (near Cable Car Museum) or Powell & California. Walk down a few blocks and you will be in Chinatown. From BART, take BART to Downtown San Francisco (exit Powell Street Station), then go above ground and transfer to 30 Stockton, 45 Union-Stockton, or cable car to Chinatown. B

Chinatown Milan

Never To Be, Napoleon

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Recently, while in Barcelona, I visited the Arc de Triomf. Only one of many triumphal arches I have visited over the years, I decided that I would make a point of visiting any and all that were present in the cities that I would currently be in.

Having seen the Arco della Pace in Milan a few years ago for a few brief moments as I was making my way to the Castle Sforza, I recently decided to make an official visit.

Arco della Pace or “Arch of Peace” is located in the Parco Sempione, directly opposite the famous Castello Sforzesco. Built under Napoleon’s rule, it is one of Milan’s many city gates and was built in the style of Paris’ Arc du Triomphe. Napoleon’s intention was that he could pass through the arch on his way into Milan as he traveled from Paris.

Built between the years of 1807 and 1838, it was constructed from many materials, including marble, bronze and stucco. Architect, Luigi Cagnola was commissioned to construct the neoclassical structure and added bas-reliefs, Corinthian columns, and statues including a bronze effigy of a Goddess led by four horses. Under the statue, which tops the arch, there is an inscription that reads Sestina della Pace (poem by peace). The names of the fallen of World War II are inscribed above the arch and at the side of the Arch, above the columns, there are two plates with the names of the fallen of the Great War and at the center there is a large slab dedicated to Victor Emanuel II. This slab is bordered by two bas-reliefs depicting two soldiers.

While the decoration of the arch initially intended to document Napoleon’s victories and originally named the Victory Arch, the conquering of the Napoleonic Kingdom of Italy by the Austrian Empire put an end to the idea. Eventually, under the rule of Emperor Francis II, the monument was decorated with scenes from the Battle of Leipzig, which ironically, led to Napoleon’s defeat.

The historical arch, one of the most familiar landmarks in the city is a common meeting point and area where locals gather to relax and enjoy the spaciousness of the Piazza Sempione and Milan’s largest park. Children can be spotted running and playing and adults exercising or enjoying an aperitif or a snack.

The arch’s base is enclosed by a metal chain, hindering visitors from walking through and lingering under the arch. There is no security presence, however, so I believe, the barrier is more of a deterrence to keep the homeless from using the space as a shelter. There are some beautiful motifs and carvings inside of the three arches that are worth taking a better look, so if you feel comfortable stepping over the chain, go for it!

There are many nightclubs and restaurants in the area as well as Milan’s own Chinatown, so grab a seat and admire the beauty of this historical triumphal arch and then take a short walk to enjoy the offerings of the area.

In my quest to see all of the world’s triumphal arches, today I achieved part of my goal.

Quite the triumph!

Now…how many more are there? Stay tuned!

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Arco della Pace

  • Address: Piazza Sempione, 20154 Milano MI, Italy
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Line 2, Moscova or Line 1, Cairoli and walk through Castle straight through park to Arch.

St. Peter’s In the Golden Sky

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Churches in Pavia?

There are so many.

While planning my trip to the city, south of Milan, the Duomo was at the top of my list, but being in Italy, certainly there would be other churches to visit.

As I googled “churches in Pavia” the resulting map was a sea of red icons. I marked them all on my map and hoped to visit at least two or three.

After viewing the Duomo’s splendor, I decided to walk north towards the Visconti Castle which houses the City Museums of Pavia. As the sun was edging lower in the evening sky, casting a golden glow over the city, I realized that the castle would have to wait until a future visit, but I also wanted to squeeze in one more thing before I headed back to Milan.

A church perhaps?

San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro, located a few blocks away, was the perfect choice as its Italian name translates to St. Peter’s In the Golden Sky…very fitting as I watched the sinking sun light the remains of the azure sky.

Trying to follow the map on my phone, I must have walked past the church a couple of times. It was a local woman, out for a walk, who finally pointed me in the right direction…the unassuming church, with its brick facade, is tucked away in a corner of a small, shady piazza.

Walking into the dimly lit interior, I noticed there was not another soul in sight except for an elderly priest attending his duties near the the front of the church. The ancient atmosphere of the basilica was mesmerizing and as I made my way through the interior and its three naves, I discovered the remains of a twelfth century mosaic in the apse as well as traces of frescoes from the fifteenth and sixteenth century.

Though the basilica dates back to the year 604 AD, the current building, only dates to the twelfth century and was consecrated by Pope Innocent II in 1132. Its grand dome in the central nave was rebuilt in 1487 and I learned from the priest that the original color of the wooden ceiling was decorated with golden colored paint, thus giving it its name.

The priest directed me into the crypt under the presbytery, which houses the remains of Severino Boezio, consul, senator and philosopher and I enjoyed making my way through the low, vaulted space. The presbytery itself, however, is the highlight of the church and what made me glad that I sought out this architectural gem. It is here that the fourteenth century marble Ark of St. Augustine is on display…the centerpiece for which this church is most notable. The Ark is decorated with scenes from the saint’s life (including his conversion, baptism, miracles after his death and the transfer of his relics to Pavia) and it is the silver urn at the foot of the Ark that houses his relics.

Another highlight of the basilica is the sacristy with its ribbed vault, sixteenth century adornments and a seventeenth century canvas of St. Augustine and St. Jerome. There are also two beautiful altars, one sculpted in 1940 and dedicated to St. Rita and the other dedicated to the Sacred Heart, dating to 1963.


Noticing the priest standing near the door, I knew that it was time to call it a day. Thanking him, I headed out into the now darkening evening and my waiting train.

Elated that I was able to visit two of the city’s holy sites and especially one with such significance. I opened up my map and marked off the two, only to realize that I’ll have to make many more trips to Pavia!

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Basilica di San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro

Pavia’s Pride

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

In the center of Pavia lies…the Duomo!

Yes, Pavia has its own.

Not a Duomo that can match the size and beauty of Milan’s, but one that fits the small scale of Pavia.

Built on the site of two pre-existing cathedrals, Saint Stephen and Santa Maria Maria del Popolo, Pavia’s cathedral was established in 1488 with the idea of offering a new place of worship to the city. Named after Saint Stephen, construction was initiated by Cristoforo Rocchi and later, Giovanni Antonio Amadeo, but most notably, Leonardi Da Vinci’s advice was also solicited on the project.

Knowing that there were many churches in Pavia, it was the one located in Cathedral Square that I most wanted to see. As I approached the square and spied the dome of the duomo, I must admit, it was a bit disappointing. When one hears the word duomo, one expects great things, like you would see in Milan. The facade, however, has largely remained incomplete with the terracotta surface still untouched by the marble in which it was supposed to be covered. Realizing that it was built over several centuries (resulting in a number of different influences) made me even more anxious to see what was inside.

Before entering, I spotted the remains next to the cathedral, the remains of the Civic Tower (Torre Civica), built in 1330 and enlarged in 1583. After standing proudly beside the cathedral for so many hundreds of years, the tower collapsed on March 17, 1989. To the left of the duomo, the remains of the two original churches can be seen in a fenced area.

Entering the structure, we found a much larger-than-expected cathedral consisting of a design of a Greek cross, topped with a dome designed by Carlo Maciachini. It is most interesting to note that this dome, held up by uniquely styled pillars, is the third largest in size in Italy.

At first glance, the far-reaching church’s marble interior appears to be quite plain, especially in the dim natural light. It is when you begin moving around the structure’s interior that you begin to notice the immense detail and treasures that lie tucked into each unique chapel that line the church’s perimeter and discover how light and airy the cathedral actually feels. Though it is tempting to head to the center of the church and examine the immense dome, and then the illuminated presbytery, take a deep breath and give yourself the time this grand structure deserves.

The main marble altar, with its eighteenth century top, was brought from the church of San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro. It draws you in with its intricately carved statues. The beautiful pulpit must be inspected thoroughly with its lifelike figures supporting the structure. It is truly amazing!

Making your way around to each of the chapels, there is much to discover in each. In St. Agnes’s chapel, there is a nineteenth century altarpiece representing a young version of the saint, lifting over her head, her symbol, the lamb. Another altarpiece, this one with the Virgin Mary, can be found in the aptly named, Virgin’s Chapel. Painted in Rome by Federico Faruffini, it depicts the Virgin with the city of Pavia at her feet. Beside the altar, there are statues of her parents Gioacchina and Anna as well as the remains of the bishop of Pavia, Damian.

In St. Peter’s Chapel, take note of the two symmetrical stones which show the saint’s coat of arms and his portrait and the cock on the left of the altarpiece which refers to St. Peter’s treason.

On the altar of St. Alessandro Sauli’s chapel, you can spy a stone urn, that holds the saint’s relics inside as well as plaster flying angels on clouds. The Chapel of the Rosary has a most interesting painting on canvas by Bernardino Gatti called Soiaro, created in 1531. Representing the Virgin of Rosary, there are stories about the Mysteries; fourteen of which must be read counterclockwise and the fifteen with the Coronation of the Virgin on the crowning tablet.

In the chapel of St. John the Baptist, a painting of the saint in the desert is flanked by statues of his parents, Elisabetta and Zaccaria. Under the altar is the body of St. Invenzio.

There are many other chapels to inspect including the Chapel of the Virgin of Caravaggio, the Chapel of Intercession, Sfondrati’s Chapel, the Crucifix’s Chapel, St. Crispino’s Chapel, St. Riccardo Pampuri’s Chapel, Trinity Chapel, St. Barnaba’s Chapel, St. Siro’s Chapel, the Chapel of the Sacred Heart and the Chapel of the Holy Family.

As you make your way around the cathedral, you will notice there are many notable figures and many past bishops, buried within and marked with engraved marble slabs. The most important person to be buried within the cathedral is St. Siro (in St. Siro’s Chapel). St. Siro is known to have been the first bishop of Pavia during the first century. According to legend, it was St. Siro who was the boy with the five loaves who appears in the Gospels. It is said that he followed St. Peter to Rome and was sent out to preach in the major cities of northern Italy.

The other most important item that should not be missed is the seventeenth century reliquary which holds the Holy Thorns which came from Christ’s crown. On Whit Sunday, an ancient mechanism allows the descent of the precious relics over a golden cloud to descend and go back up the following day.

Now that’s something I would like to see!

Exiting the cathedral and looking out onto the square, I thought of my first impression of Pavia’s duomo when I arrived. Turning back and taking another look, I realized something…

First impressions can be so deceiving.

Pavia’s duomo measures up in its own way!

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Pavia Duomo

Note: Check out the Regisole (“Sun King”) monument in Cathedral Square outside the Duomo. Originally erected in Ravenna, it was moved to Pavia in the Middle Ages and stands for Pavia’s deep connection with imperial Rome.

The Old Covered Bridge

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Why did the pedestrian cross the river?

To check out the beautiful covered bridge.

Okay, so that’s not how the old joke goes, but when one sees a beautiful covered bridge, one must absolutely take a walk to the other side!

Having decided to take some side trips from Milan lately, I ventured out to the town of Pavia on the advice of a friend. Marking a few items of interest on my map, the first one I wanted to see was the Ponte Coperto (the Covered Bridge), also called the Ponte Vecchio (the Old Bridge).

The structure is a brick and stone arch bridge which crosses the Ticino River and replaces the previous medieval bridge, dating from 1354 (with an even older Roman one preceding it). When the previous bridge was damaged during the war in 1945, repair was considered until the structure partially collapsed a couple of years later.

The new bridge’s design was based on the previous bridge and was begun in 1949, incorporating one difference and one similarity. The previous bridge contained seven arches and the current one contains only five, however, like its predecessor, it contains a chapel in the center.

The Ponte Coperto connects the suburbs, the traditional place of washerwomen, gravel quarrymen and fisherman, to the city’s center and there were many pedestrians crossing the bridge as I made my way to the other side.

Peeking inside the chapel at the altar, devoted to St. Giovanni Nepomuceno, patron of drowned men, I also paid particular attention to the vaulted wood ceiling above. In the center of the bridge, I stopped to examine the remains of the ancient Roman bridge ruins which sit in the rushing water of the Ticino.

So what did I do after I made my way to the other side?

I went back!

There’s lots more to see in Pavia!

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Ponte Coperto

  • http://www.comune.pv.it/site/home.html
  • Address: 27100 Pavia, Province of Pavia, Italy
  • Hours: daily, 24 hours
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: About a 12-15 minute walk from the Pavia train station

Age-old Commerce

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Shop til you drop?

Even the Romans did it a couple of thousand years ago!

With so many things to visit in the Colosseum area, it was a hard decision as to what my destination would be on the warm, sunny day…

The Colosseum?

The Forum?

The Palatine?

The Altare della Patria?

I hadn’t been shopping lately…maybe it was a good day to see the place believed to be the first shopping mall ever constructed.

The Trajan Market.

Today, the arcades in Trajan’s Market are known to not only have housed shopping but administrative offices for Emperor Trajan after its inauguration in 113 A.D.  The complex included a covered market, small shop fronts and a residential apartment block.  The structure comprised three levels, built into the adjacent hillside, with the ground level including alcoves used for small shops which opened onto the street.

Looking for a “Trajan Market” sign (or the Italian equivalent) marking the entrance, I must have walked past the actual entrance three or four times before I realized that the Museum of the Imperial Fora was where I needed to be.

The multilevel structure, opened in 2007, is a fascinating place filled with artifacts from all of ancient Rome’s forums and fills the space where the ancient mall once operated.  The former shopping area was spread out on two different sides of the complex and the elegant marble floors and the remains of a library are still visible.  The primary products sold at the market would have come from across the empire and included fruit, vegetables, fish, wine, oil and spices.

The name of the street on the upper level of the Market, Biberatica, gives a clue to what may have occupied the spaces here.  The Latin word, biber, meaning drink gives rise to the notion that various drinking establishments were available to serve the market shoppers.  This area was covered by a concrete vault which allowed air and light into the central space and the intricate brickwork is fascinating, both in its construction and the fact that it still remains almost flawless…as it was the day it was erected.

Walking to the far end of the building, I utilized the stairway and headed to the courtyard on the side of the market.  Here, current exhibitions are on display and I was pleasantly surprised to discover The Spiral, an installation designed by artist Luminita Taranu, inspired by the Trajan’s Column.  I loved the colorful hues and metals used in the creation of this masterpiece…and I loved the photo opportunities it presented!

Finally, I moved into the open rear area, entering the large halls, once probably used for auditions and concerts.  As I walked through the smaller, concrete and brick spaces, I found some of the 170 total rooms empty and some housing information on the ancient marketplace.

Still, the most impressive part of the the complex was standing out on the top of the semicircular balcony, looking out over the ruins, including the Torre delle Milizie, built in 1200, and the neighboring Forum and Altare della Patria.

 

Walking back through the interior part of the compound, I took more time to inspect the intricacies of the construction and the pieces that occupied its interior.

No great sales were found, but I can say, it was a great deal to experience firsthand, what it must have been like to shop this extraordinary venue almost two thousand years ago.

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Trajan Market and Museum of the Imperial Forums

  • http://www.mercatiditraiano.it/
  • Address:  Via Quattro Novembre, 94, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
  • Hours:  0930-1930, daily.  0930-1400, December 24 and 31.  Closed January 1, May 1 and December 25
  • Admission:  Adults, €15.00. Reduced, €13.00.  Citizens residing in the territory of Roma Capital (proof required).  Reduced, €11.00.  Includes museum entrance and exhibitions.
  • Getting There:  Take the metro, Blue line and get off at Colosseo.

Bernini’s Perfect Work

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Don’t you love it when you find something special without even trying?

Recently, while in Rome, I was out for a walk headed toward nowhere in particular.   Enjoying a gelato, the sunshine and my leisurely stroll, I was paying attention to the intricate and elegant architecture of the area.

Walking along the Via del Quirinale, I noticed a church on my left.  Noticing people entering, I decided to take a look inside.

The Church of Sant’ Andrea al Quirinal is a Roman Catholic church built for the Jesuit seminary on the Quirinal Hill.  Commissioned in 1658, the church was constructed in 1661 and designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, who considered it one of his most perfect works.

And perfect it was!

A rotunda-type oval church, with the high altar placed on the short axis, makes it much closer to the entrance than most churches and the first thing I set my eyes upon.  Drawn in due to the placement, my gaze was transfixed on the red marble columns flanking the incredible, breathtaking altar and the painting of The Martyrdom of Saint Andrew by Guillaume Courtois, topped with three-dimensional golden cherubs and a marble figure of Saint Andrew resting on the pediment high above the altar, arm outstretched and gazing upward.

Finally, tearing myself away, I began to inspect each of the chapels, moving to the right of the altar. The Chapel of St. Francis Xavier, showcases three canvases by Baciccio depicting the Baptism, Preaching and Death of St. Francis Xavier.   Gazing upward, the ceiling presents a painting of The Glory of St. Francis Xavier by Filippo Bracci.

The Chapel of the Passion, has three canvases with scenes from the Passion of Jesus Christ by Giacinto Brandi and the chapel to the left of the altar, The Chapel of Saint Stanislaus Kostka, houses the shrine of the saint, a bronze and lapis lazuli urn and a painting of the Madonna With Child and Saint Stanislaus Kostka.  Make sure to check out the ceiling fresco by Govanni Odazzi.

Another chapel is dedicated to Saint Ignatius of Loyola and showcases paintings by Ludovico Mazzanti of the Madonna and Child and Saints and Adoration of Kings and Shepherds.   Another magnificent ceiling painting, Glory of the Angels, commanded my attention here also.

The final altar, located between the Chapel of Saint Stanislaus Kostka caught my eye with the large crucifix.  In this chapel, I discovered the tomb of King Charles Emmanuel IV of Sardinia and Piedmont, who abdicated in 1815 to enter the Society of Jesus and lived in the Jesuit novitiate, adjacent to the church, until his death in 1819.

Many other intricately carved statues grace the pediments above the chapels and the domed ceiling is centered with an oculus allowing the church to be lighted naturally.  Bringing my attention to the floor, I was entranced by the amazing inlaid mosaics which mirrors the elliptical dome overhead.  Bernini did not want large funerary monuments within the church to ruin the architectural lines, so the mosaics mark the grave of those such as Cardinal Giambattista Spinola.

As I was moving through the church, I noticed a sign near a doorway.  As if there wasn’t enough to captivate my attention, I discovered that for a small fee, I could visit the Rooms of Saint Stanislaus Kostka in the Jesuit novitiate, attached to the church, as well as the sacristy, which has been described as the most beautiful in the city.  Not seeing many people heading that way, I decided that my curiosity needed to be satisfied.

Paying the sacristan on duty, I was then directed me up a stairway.  Entering a small room, I discovered paintings and information about Saint Stanislaus Kostka.  As I walked into the rooms that the saint spent his final years, what caught my eye…and actually, caught me a bit off guard…was a life-size marble statue depicting the dying saint, designed by Pierre Legros.  Portrayed at the age of 18, the saint rests on a marble bed and holds in one hand, a small framed image of the Virgin Mary and a real rosary in the other. Surrounded by paintings from his life, the Baroque decor is even more engaging, painted deep red and trimmed in an abundance of gold.

Relics belonging to the saint are displayed in a case the left and two altars fill the wall spaces.  The rooms were so mesmerizing and yet so intimate, not something you get to experience in the normal course of a church visit.

After my descent to the bottom level, I was greeted once again by the sacristan, who then led me into the sacristy and turned on the interior lights.  As my eyes adjusted, I thought, “Indeed, this could be one of the most beautiful in Rome.”  The dark wood altarpiece displays a painting, Immaculate Conception, by Andrea Pozzo, but the ceiling is the magnificent that I have ever seen. The multi-dimensional fresco depicts the Apotheosis of St. Andrew by Govanni de Brosso and is worthy of more than a few minutes of anyone’s time.  Take a seat and stay awhile!

Finally, as my visit was drawing to a close, I took one more round in the church and then stepped outside to take a better look at the exterior.  A simple beauty, marked by a semicircular porch with two Ionic columns invites visitors in to its exaggerated beauty on the inside.

As I stood contemplating what I had just witnessed, a couple walked up near me and read about the church from a guide book they were carrying.  Seeming a bit hesitant about whether or not to take the time to enter, I encouraged them to do so.  To not enter and miss one of Rome’s treasures would be just as a Jesuit devotee dying at the young age of 18.

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Sant’Andrea al Quirinale

  • Address:  Via del Quirinale 29.
  • Hours:  Monday-Friday 0830-1200, 1500-1900. Saturday and Sunday 0900-1200, 1530-1900.
  • Admission:  free.  €2.00 for entrance to Chapel of St. Stanislov and sacristy.
  • Getting There:  From the Fontane del Tritone near the Barberini Metro station, walk up Via delle Qattro Fontane. Turn right at Via del Quirinale; pass the church San Carlo alle Quatro Fontane (built by Bernini’s rival, Borromini). Pass the park and Sant’Andrea is on the left at the end of the gardens.