weimere@aol.com – Page 49 – Snapping The Globe

The French Fort

Sometimes I have trouble getting to or from work, so I take Amtrak. But, as an American, that is about the extent of what we call train travel here in the United States.

Everyone in Europe takes the train…everywhere. The rail networks reach far and wide and it is extremely easy (and relatively cheap) to visit, shop or go to the beach in other cities.f

Recently, a trip to Nice had me itching to see more of the coastal area. Having been to Monaco and Juan le Pins, I had only spent a small amount of time in Antibes and decided that I would like to see what else it had to offer.

Shortly after my arrival (and a shower), I made my way to the train station, Gare de Nice-Ville and purchased a ticket for the next departure to Antibes. Though it was running a few minutes late, I was soon on my way.

The train was filled with beach goers carrying floats and beach bags, excitedly talking amongst themselves and eager to arrive at their destinations to enjoy the beautiful warm and sunny day. A short 25 minutes later, the train was pulling into Gare d’Antibes and after pushing past a man carrying two beach chairs and a child already wearing his floaties, I was soon making my way down toward the marina, Port Vauban.

Port Vauban, a natural harbor used since before the Roman Empire, is home to the Yacht Club d’Antibes and is the largest marina in the Mediterranean. The harbor houses some of the world’s largest and most extravagant yachts. When visiting Antibes, a great way to spend an afternoon is to walk around the marina, check out some of the amazing vessels and imagine what it would be like to cruise the vibrant waters in absolute luxury!

Though it was nice to spend some time near the harbor, my destination was actually on the far side, Fort Carré.

When making plans to visit Antibes, I had spied Fort Carré on the map. It appeared to be directly between the train station and the harbor and my original plan to was to walk nearby and see if it was open to the public. Well, maps aren’t always correct and after my arrival, I discovered it was about a fifteen minute walk away from the center of Antibes. The route was well marked and I soon arrived at the Antibes Football Club stadium. A large statue that appeared to be some sort of memorial and the fort was visible on the other side, however, it was quite confusing as to how to make my way there.

Spying an open gate near the Football Club, I made my way to the far side of the stadium. Climbing the stone stairways, I made my way to the statue, Le Poilu.

One of the tallest, yet, little known War Memorials in France, the statue stands guard over the Stade de Fort Carré. Walking around the base of the statue, you are reminded of the terrible losses that the town of Antibes suffered during World War One. Two hundred and fifty-four names are engraved on all four side of the monument’s base…a number larger than any other town in France.

The statue stands 22 meters in height and was sculpted by Henri Bouchard and inaugurated in 1927. Legend has it that upon completion and installation of the statue, the sculptor committed suicide when he realized that he had placed the soldier’s rifle on the wrong side.

Walking past the statue, I began earnestly searching for the Fort’s entrance. Though a fence separated me from a road bordering the stadium and the fort, I noticed people walking in the area. Certain that I needed to be on the opposite side, I slipped through a hole in the fence (yes…I did) and finally found the unassuming entrance to the fort’s grounds.

Quite overgrown and appearing to be more of a natural path, I followed others up the rocky and dusty trail, stopping occasionally to admire the wildflowers growing in the area.

Finally, the entryway to the castle stood before me. Paying the admission fee of 3€, I was instructed to remain on the lower level until greeted by a guide. Walking around the circular interior courtyard, I was mesmerized by the contrast between the dark red doorways and the aged tan stone walls. An exhibit detailing the construction of the castle was contained in one of the rooms off of the courtyard and an old well occupied the ground space.

A young, female guide soon joined us and we were escorted up the rounded stairway to the level above. Making our way through the structure, she informed us on the history of Fort Carre.

The star shaped fort was built in the 16th century by Henri de Mandon and redeveloped in the 17th century by the Marquis de Vauban. Housing barrack buildings for officers and men and an ancient chapel, the fort is devoid of cannons or other military accoutrements.

Set on the headland that divides the Antibes harbor from the Baie des Anges, the most impressive part of traversing the walkways at the top of the structure is the panoramic views of the Mediterranean and its nearby beaches, Port Vauban, the southern Alps and on clear days views down both ways to Monaco and Cannes.

As we dodged an aggressive seagull, guarding its nest, we were informed that one of the most famous inhabitants of the fort was Napoleon Bonaparte during the French Revolution. After the overthrow of Robespierre in 1794, he was detained in Fort Carré for ten days. The fort resumed its penitentiary role during the occupation in World War II when it acted as holding place for foreigners. Before opening to the public as an historic monument in 1998, the fort was used as a sports college where soldiers learned to climb its precipitous walls and as one of the locations for the Bond film, Never Say Never with the return of Sean Connery as 007.

Enjoying the warmth of the sunny day, I could have stayed on the top of the fort for much longer, however, being required to stay in the company of our guide, we were escorted to the lower level for the completion of our tour.

After my departure, I made my way around the entire base of the fort, stopping to pay my respects at a nearby soldier’s grave. Finally, following a drive down the backside of the fort, I found the green entrance gates. Not anxious to slip through the hole in the fence once again, I walked toward the stadium’s left side and sure enough found the path which I should have taken when I arrived.

Much easier than the latter method of entry!

Excited that I was able to experience a part of French history, I made my way back past the harbor and to the center of Antibes. If you enjoy history and photography, I strongly recommend a visit to Fort Carré…and the view’s not so bad either!

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Fort Carré

http://www.antibes-juanlespins.com/culture/fort-carre
Address: Avenue du 11 Novembre, 06600 Antibes, France
Hours: February to May, 1000-1230 and 1330-1700, June to October, 1000-1300 and 1400-1800, November to January, 1000-1230 and 1330-1630. Closed Mondays and January 1, May 1, November 1 and December 25.
Admission: 3€

Port Vauban

http://www.riviera-ports.com/ports/port-d-antibes-vauban
Address: Avenue de Verdun, 06600 Antibes, France
Hours: Open always
Admission: free

Le Poilu

Address: 60 Avenue du 11 Novembre, 06600 Antibes Juan les Pins, France. Behind the Antibes Football Stadium

The Merchants of Venice

The best thing about Venice is getting lost!

Try reading a map of Venice…there are so many little alleyways and narrow streets, it is almost impossible to make heads or tails of it. Carry a map with you, but use it in a general manner.

I love to enter the city and take any path, alley or bridge that comes my way. You never know what you’ll stumble across…piazzas, churches, museums, restaurants, hotels, gelaterias…they are everywhere!

One of the greatest things you will find in Venice is the shopping. Boutiques and markets offers a vast selection of items.

If you need a mask…certainly they have what you are looking for. Going to a masquerade ball, you will be the hit of the party!

Glassware…with Murano and its glass-blowing artisans nearby, many beautiful pieces are available for purchase if you don’t make your way to the island.

Pasta! You can get it at any restaurant and you can take it home to impress your friends at your own Venetian-inspired dinner party!

Artwork…many artists display their works throughout the city on the streets and within legions of galleries located throughout the city.

As a lover of jewelry, this is one of my favorite things to buy and bring home for friends and family as souvenirs. Again, Murano glass is a big inspiration in many pieces.

Hungry? Many markets pop up throughout the city for the residents to purchase fruits and vegetables. If you are out for a stroll, however, and looking for a healthier option as an afternoon snack, there are many choices.

Some gelato to cool you off on a hot day? There seems to be a gelateria on every corner!

Sun too bright? You can find something along the way to help.

Looking for something special for mom, dad, grandma and your girlfriend? Many stands, throughout the city, offer unique gifts and souvenirs.

Whatever it is that you are looking for, Venice is sure to have it. So go ahead, throw out that map and take that bridge…take that right turn…go against what your internal compass is telling you…you never know what you might find!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Helping Hands

There’s something new and exciting on the Grand Canal in Venice!

An art installation by Lorenzo Quinn is gracing the waters at the Ca’ Sagredo Hotel.

Immense hands emerge from the Venetian waters and appear to support the hotel. Entitled Support, the sculpture highlights the threat faced by the city due to global warming and rising sea levels.

An inspiring and breathtaking sculpture, it is best viewed from across the Grand Canal at the Mercati di Rialto (Seafood Market) although an alternate view can be garnered from taking the traghetto (gondola ferry) adjacent to the Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. If you are lucky (like we were) you may have the traghetto all to yourself, however, your view may be hampered if the gondola is filled with other tourists. If you do not decide to take the traghetto, definitely take one of the side streets next to the hotel and walk out onone of the piers or Vaporetto stops for excellent side views. The minute details of the sculpture are incredible!

The installation was unveiled on May 13 for the 57th International Art Exhibition of the Venice Biennale and will remain on display until November 26.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Support at the Ca’ Sagredo Hotel

http://www.casagredohotel.com/
Address: Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99, 30121 Venezia, Italy
Hours: always viewable and lighted by spotlight at night
Admission: free
Traghetto Ca’D’Oro Pescaria, 2€ per person

Do the Duomo!

Many years ago, I visited the Duomo on one of my first trips to Milan. Of course I did…isn’t that what all first-time visitors to Milan do?

Over the years since, I’ve walked by the massive cathedral and sat in the square admiring its magnificence. The intricate carvings and towering spires dominate the skyline and mesmerize. It is almost unfathomable to imagine the skill and patience required to create this masterpiece, yet, as you stand near the structure and gaze upward, there are so many small details that comprise the fabrication…so many, in fact, that you can always see it in a new light every time you visit.

So many lives were dedicated and lost to this incredible building, most never seeing the completion as it took an astounding 582 years to build. Standing on the site of not one, but two other churches, St. Maria Maggiore and Basilica of St. Tecla, the Duomo certainly resides on the holiest ground and is one of the oldest Christian buildings in Europe. Here is where St. Ambrose baptized St. Augustine and the Battistero Paleocristiano can still be visited under the Cathedral.

Deciding that it was time to visit again, I set off on the metro destined for the fifth largest Christian church in the world and Milan’s most famous landmark.

Arriving in the front of the building, an extensive queue snaked from the front to side where tickets were required to enter the queue. After a quick walk to the ticket office at the Sala Delle Colonne, we soon had tickets in hand and were back to the line. Moving rather quickly, our bags were inspected at the door and we were then admitted into the cathedral.

The Duomo is a massive space with much so much to investigate, I strongly suggest giving yourself ample time for your visit. Starting on the right side of the cathedral, we made our way inside the darkened space, stopping to pay our respects to the sarcophagi and burial places of former Cardinals and Archbishops of Milan.

Rounding the back of the cathedral in the retro-choir, a 1:1 scale copy of the statue of Madonnina (located at the highest point atop the Duomo) is located. Standing before the vibrant and beauteous stained glass windows, the statue is said to offer protection to whomever finds joy while gazing at her. “Those who come to Milan remain astonished at her light; those who leave, carry her with them forever”.

The organ, built in 1938 and one of the largest is the world, is a sight to behold as well as the ghastly statue of Bartholomew Flayed, designed by Marco D’Agrate in 1562, with his flayed skin thrown around his shoulder in a stole-like fashion.

As you scrutinize the extraordinary altar, make sure you look for the red light in the dome above the apse which illuminates the spot where one of the nails from the Crucifixion of Christ resides. Every year, the Holy Nail is retrieved from this location and placed on exhibition for the public during the celebration of the Rite of the Nivola.

Beneath the choir, the crypt of Charles Borromeo, the former archbishop (1564-1584) and cardinal, is accessible via a short stairway. No pictures are allowed. The Cathedral Treasury (Tesoro del Duomo) is also located in this area and a separate entrance fee of €1 is required for entrance.

Once we had seen the entirety of the interior, we made our way down into the Archaeological Area beneath the front of the church, which was included in our ticket. The excavated ruins include both the Cathedral of St. Thecla and the 4th century Battistero Paleocristiano, where the octagonal baptismal font can be observed in the center. Pieces of fresco, mosaics and other artifacts can be seen as well as a few well-preserved tombs.

Since the day was nearing its close, we made our way out of the building and to the cathedral’s right side, to the elevators which would take us to the top of the Duomo. Excited for this part of our visit, I could not wait to see an area of the cathedral that I had not seen prior.

After what seemed like an interminable wait, we finally entered the lift and made our way to the top. Following the crowds along the roof line, we were able to set our sights on the thousands of statues and flying buttresses that make up the cathedral’s summit. More than 3,400 statues, 135 gargoyles and 700 figures can been seen crowning the spires and breathtaking views of Milan and the snow-capped Alps can be admired on clear days. Walking along the rooftop terrace, you can also gaze at the top of the cathedral’s highest spire, and see the original Madonnina, keeping watch over the city. Truly the perfect way to end our day!

Although we did not make it to the Museo del Duomo, also included in our ticket, we were happy to have explored most of what the Duomo offers…besides…it leaves something for another day!

Truly a marvel, the Duomo should not be missed on a stop in Milan. Visited and written about by so many writers (Oscar Wilde and Henry James), it has captivated attention for centuries, most notably Mark Twain’s, who described it best. “What a wonder it is! So grand, so solemn, so vast! And yet so delicate, so airy, so graceful! A very world of solid weight, and yet it seems …a delusion of frostwork that might vanish with a breath!”

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Duomo

http://www.duomomilano.it
Address: Piazza del Duomo, 20122 Milano, Italy
Hours: Duomo, 0800-1900, daily
Hours: Crypt of St. Charles, Monday – Friday, 1100-1730, Saturday, 1100-1700, Sunday, 1330-1530
Hours: Museo del Duomo, 1000-1800, Tuesday- Sunday
Hours: Terraces, 0900-1900, daily
Hours: Archaeological Area, 0900-1900, daily
Admission: Duomo Pass A, Includes Cathedral Terraces by Lift, Duomo Museum, Archaeological Area, San Gottardo Church, €16.00-€8.00, Duomo Pass B, Includes
Cathedral Terraces on Foot, Duomo Museum, Archaeological Area, San Gottardo Church, €12.00-€6.00
Ticket Offices: SALA DELLE COLONNE, Piazza del Duomo, 14/a, 0800-1830, daily and Palazzo Reale – Piazza del Duomo, 12 at the Grande Museo del Duomo, 0845-1800, closed Monday. Self service ticket machines are available at both locations.
Getting There: From Central Station, take the Yellow Metro (M3) and get off at Duomo stop. From Cadorna Station, take the Red Metro (M1) and get off at Duomo stop. From Garibaldi Station, take the Green Metro (M2), change at Cardorna to the Red (M1) and get off at Duomo stop. The Duomo can also be accessed by trams 15 (Piazza Fontana stop), 2 and 14 (Via Torino stop) and 16, 24 and 27 (Via Mazzini stop).

What Lies Beneath…

There are many ancient basilicas throughout Italy.

There are many ancient basilicas in Milan.

Take your pick!

One of the oldest basilicas, San Lorenzo, is located in the southern part of the city of Milan near the canal district.

Originally built between the late fourth and early fifth century, the basilica boasts the highest dome in the city and lies opposite sixteen Corinthian marble columns, Colonne di San Lorenzo, the few remains of the Roman “Mediolanum” which date from the 3rd century AD.

Walking alongside these columns, I admired their everlasting strength and symmetry and turned to pass through the piazza in front of San Lorenzo. Here, I was greeted by a copy of the Emperor Constantine, the first emperor to convert to Christianity, standing tall and proud and ready to greet the hoards of young people who congregate here each afternoon and evening.

Entering the church, my first impression of the octagonal nave was one of a modest interior. A majestic gold altar, stands in the center, however the dark, grey stone innards is a far reach from many other churches’ beautifully painted interiors, more specifically San Maurizio, which I had visited earlier in the day.

As I walked around the exterior walls of the church, I discovered many interesting statues and small chapels, however, I also discovered what this church is known for. The Cappella di Sant’Aquilino (Chapel of St. Aquilinus).

After paying my entry fee of 2€, I discovered in this beautiful sanctuary, fourth century Byzantine mosaics on the walls and niches. One interesting mosaic in particular depicts a beardless Christ and another has crumbled away to reveal the artist’s drawings beneath.

A lovely, glass encased sarcophagus sits below a magnificently painted domed ceiling and is said to hold the remains of Galla Placidia, the wife of Ataulf, the king of the Visigoths and sister of Honorius, the last emperor of Rome.

After seeing two other tourists duck behind the sarcophagus I went to investigate, discovering a stairway leading down below the church. There, in the dusty crypt-like room, is a most fascinating find…the original foundations of the church. These ancient foundations were transported here from a Roman amphitheater and were the beginnings of San Lorenzo.

Ascending back up the stairs and through the chapel, I took time to reinspect central part of the church once again, realizing that I had missed the pipe organ, built by Pietro Bernasconi. This fascinating organ with two keyboards, was built with materials re-used from the previous organ built in 1840 by Felice Bossi, which in turn had borrowed parts from an earlier organ by Antonio Brunelli II. This original organ is believed to be from the church of San Giovanni in Conca.

As I exited the doors into the rainy afternoon and stared out at the Roman columns towering before the church, I realized that though not one of the most ornate basilicas in Milan, San Lorenzo is definitely one of the most interesting. When visiting this ancient basilica, be sure to spend the extra money and visit the Chapel of St. Aquilinus…truly the jewel in this masterpiece.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Basilica di San Lorenzo

http://www.sanlorenzomaggiore.com/
Address: Corso di Porta Ticinese, 35, 20123 Milano, Italy
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0800-1830, Sunday, 0900-1900
Admission: Church, free, Capella di Sant’Aquilino, 2€
How To Get There: Tram, Ticinese Molino delle Armi, Line 3

The Art Lover’s Church

Rainy days aren’t usually fun days for tourists…especially when you are trying to go out and do some sightseeing! So, when I woke up from my nap in Milan and discovered that it was sprinkling a bit, what was I to do?

Grab an umbrella and raincoat and hit the streets, of course!

Since the weather forecast was not calling for the deluge to end any time that day, I reached into my bag of knowledge of local destinations and pulled out San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore.

Having researched this monastery a few times, I had also heard that it was not to be missed…and it was indoors! Perfect!

Reaching the metro station of Cadorna and consulting my map a few times, I was soon standing in front of the church’s unassuming gray stone facade on Corso Magenta.

Admittedly, it didn’t look like much.

Stepping through the doors, however, I must confess…my breath caught in my chest. An art lover’s dream, this church truly is magnificent. Being a person who has traveled the world and seen many religious institutions, I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything quite as beautiful with masterpieces covering every inch of the walls, ceilings, side chapels and altar area. It was absolutely difficult to discern which way to cast your gaze.

The church, standing on the site of a former place of worship, was constructed in the beginning of the 1500’s and is adjoined to the convent of the Benedictine nuns, the oldest female monastery in Milan. The rectangular nave is divided by a partition into two sections. The front section, which you see when you enter, is intended for the congregation’s worship and filled with artwork by major sixteenth century Lombard artists such as Bernardino Luini, who worked with Leonardo da Vinci, and his sons, Paolo Lomazzo, Ottavio Semino, Callisto Piazza and Simone Peterzano. The carved wooden altar is graced by the renowned Adorazione dei Magi (Adoration of the Magi) by Antonio Campi above it, dating back to 1578, one of the most outstanding pieces of artwork in the building.

Checking with the attendant that it was okay to photograph the area, she then made sure that I saw a sign pointing to a doorway near the altar. The Hall of Nuns.

Already in awe of what I was seeing, I was not sure I wanted to continue on to another area of the structure. Entering the doorway into a great hall, again, I was dumbfounded.

The Hall of Nuns was unlike anything I had ever seen. The long nave, flanked on each side by the wooden nun’s choir loft was presided over by a massive and obviously quite valuable pipe organ, designed by Gian Giacomo Antegnati in 1554, in the monk’s choir. Beautifully sculpted, the gold detail of the facade is only outdone by the two shutters on each side painted in tempera by Franscesco Medici.

Walking through the gallery, I was overloaded by the expanse of compositions that filled every inch of the walls, niches and ceilings. Truly breathtaking! Looking upward at the starry sky, with God, the Evangelists and angels, I made my way throughout the space, through the hall and behind the nun’s choir, finding my way back to the partition separating the Hall of the Nuns from the main congregation. Here, images by Bernandino Luini, of St. Catherine, St. Agatha, the Marriage at Cana and the Carrying of the Cross of Christ are presented.

Reluctantly leaving the space, I found my way into the location that formerly housed the Benedictine convent. Now the domicile of the Milan Archaeological Museum, many Roman remains, statues and parts of the Roman Circus can be found here. Deciding to save this for another day, I made my way through the courtyard, quickly checking out the relics that lined the area and back into the rainy day.

Glancing back at the church, I couldn’t help but stop and feel glad that I had braved the elements and taken such an incredible and artistic walk through history.

Everyone wants to see the Duomo, but everyone should seek out Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore. Truly one of Milan’s gems!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore

http://www.turismo.milano.it/wps/portal/tur/en/arteecultura/architetturaemonumenti/abbaziechieseebasiliche/chiesa_di_san_maurizio_al_monastero_maggiore
Address: Corso Magenta, 15, Milano
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 0930-1930
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro: MM1 (red line) Cairoli stop, MM2 (green line) Cadorna and Sant’Ambrogio stops. Tram: 16, 18, 19, bus number 50, 58, 94.

Out Of This World

Happy to be going to a different location this weekend, I sat in front of my computer and googled “Things to Do In Brussels”. The usual stuff was displayed on my screen.

The Grand Place…no trip is complete without wandering around the main square and I knew at some point during this trip, I would probably end up there.

Day trips to Bruges…my god, how I wish I had the time!!!

Mannekin Pis…seriously…how many times can I watch him pee?

The Atomium…now, here is something I haven’t done.

Located in the northern part of the city between the royal estates of Laeken and Stuyvenbergh, the Atomium is a structure originally built for the Expo 58, the 1958 Brussels World’s Fair. An unusual fabrication, it forms the shape of a unit cell of an iron crystal magnified 165 billion times! Now a famous landmark and museum, it has become the most popular tourist attraction and the symbol of Europe’s capital city.

Though the trip to the northern part of the city is normally an uncomplicated one, we soon discovered that work was being done on the train lines. After riding the metro back and forth between two stations and pairing up with three Swedish women, we all found that we had to exit that station and take a specially marked bus to the Atomium.

A short walk later, we found ourselves staring up at the amazing, shiny structure that appears to have been deposited by aliens! Something truly out of this world!

Making our way to the base of the Atomium, we found our way to a long, snaking line in order to purchase tickets. 12 euros later, we again found ourselves in another line to enter to building, having to pass thru metal detectors and endure bag searches.

Finally…another line…but this time to make our way up to the permanent exhibition on the second floor.

The permanent exhibition details how the Atomium came to be, from the conception and designs of engineer André Waterkeyn and architects André and Jean Polak. Standing 335 feet tall, its nine, 60 foot diameter stainless steel clad connected spheres represent the faith one had in the power of science and nuclear power. The 1958 World’s Fair was organized, at the time, to promote the world’s technological and scientific advances, to look to a better future and to encourage world peace. There are many sketches and displays detailing the beginnings of this immense engineering project as well as many old pictures, some detailing the visits of the six million visitors to the fair, including the likes of celebrities such as Elizabeth Taylor.

Though some of the information was interesting, the area appeared to be straight out the 1950’s and cartoon, the Jetson’s…very much in need of an update!

From the Atomium map, it seemed that we should have been able to traverse the tubes to other exhibitions throughout the structure, however, we were sent back to the bottom floor after our tour of the permanent exhibition. Corralled into another area, we found ourselves in line…once again…this time to take the elevator to the top, viewing level.

Finally, arriving at the top sphere, we were rewarded with 360 degree views of the surrounding area and the city of Brussels. With bright, blue, sunny skies it was easy to see areas far away as well as the royal estates nearby and Mini-Europe almost directly beneath.

After making our way around the top of the Atomium, we ascended the stairs to the restaurant at the top of the orb, where we once again encountered our Swedish friends. Though the restaurant Belgium Taste, has a full menu, having a drink to appreciate the beautiful views through the full-length windows appears to be the norm later in the afternoon.

Once again, standing in line for the elevator, we made our way to the base of the Atomium, through the gift shop and out of the building. Heading down the avenue, we walked far enough to reach the roundabout where a vast amount of tulips were planted for some colorful pictures and then further down to a fountain, passing monuments and parks along the way.

Finding ourselves further from the bus drop off and remembering the disruption on the subway lines, we decided to make our way home via tram. Taking a tram from Centenaire, we traveled to De Wand where we encountered amazing grafitti throughout the area. Taking a few minutes, we snapped a few photos before our tram arrived. Departing De Wand, we were able to travel all the way to the Bourse near the Grand Place.

See…I told you I would end up in the Grand Place at some point.

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The Atomium

Address: Avenue de l’Atomium, 1020 Bruxelles, Belgium
Hours: Daily, 1000-1800 (box office closes at 1730)
Admission: Adults (18-59 years), €12, Children (under 6), coach drivers, people with disabilities, free, Children (6 – 11 yrs), €6, Teens (12 – 17 yrs), €8, Students (with student ID), €8, Senior citizens (aged 60 yo and above): €9
Combination tickets may be purchased with ADAM (Art and Design Museum) and the adjacent Mini Europe.
Getting There: The Atomium is a 5 minute walk from the Heysel / Heizel metro station (line 6) and right opposite Mini-Europe. You can also depart Bourse station near the Grand place and switch at De Wand station to Centenaire (Line 19 or 23) for a more colorful journey or in the event of subway disruption.

Temple of Victory

Making my way through throngs of shoppers at the weekend market taking place at the Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio, I gathered my bearings and was attempting to find my way to the nearest Metro station. Passing between the apsidal area of the Basilica and the seat of the Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, I stood mesmerized at a gate separating me from a tall, marble monument.

The Temple of Victory.

Only…I didn’t know what it was at the time.

Attempting to photograph the temple, I assumed it was part of Sant’ Ambrogio, but inaccessible to public visitation. Turning onto the adjacent street, I glanced back through the temple’s gates and noticed two people walking near the base. Appearing that is was indeed open to the public, I frantically began searching the perimeter for the entrance. I wanted to check this place out!

Street view to Catholic University. Temple on right.

Walking around the enclosure, I passed through an open gate, but witnessed a gentleman attendant folding up his table and chair. Noticing that it was almost five o’clock and probably closing time, I decided to enter and play the part of “the stupid tourist” if confronted!

First, walking around the base of the structure, I photographed the amazing statue of Saint Ambrogio by Adolfo Wildt and admired the intricately carved faces in the niches in the facade by artists such as Lombardi, Supino and Maiocchi. Peering into the structure through a closed glass doorway, I decided that I was definitely going in!

The door on the opposite side was not yet closed and I no longer noticed the attendant. Walking into the shrine, I quickly made my way both up and down the stairways.

After inspecting the upper floor, I made my way down to the bottom and the ossuary. Noting that it was a monument of extreme importance and reverence, I stood in silence reading some of the thousands of names that lined the walls.

I slowly wandered the marble floors and inspected the memorials on each of the levels.

After my retreat to the ground level, I encountered the attendant standing beside the entrance. Asking him if he minded giving me some background information on the temple, he happily obliged in excellent English!

The Temple of Victory (also known as Shrine of the Fallen Milanes or Monument to the Fallen), a marble, monumental complex dedicated to the fallen Milanese of the Great War, was inaugurated on November 4, 1928 on the 10th anniversary of Vittorio Veneto, the battle won by the Italians in World War II.

The complex is one of extreme symbolism and stands on the site of the ancient cemetery of the martyrs. The black stone fence surrounding the monument replicates the same measurements of the atrium of Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio. The eight sides of the building are oriented towards the eight gates of Milan which reminds one of the streets that the soldiers traversed from Milan to join the Italian troops. The four large arches and the symbols carved represent the four years of war and names of the great battles the Armed Forces fought in. Lastly, the four lateral sides symbolize the four natural elements, earth, water, fire and air.

Built between 1927 and 1930 and based on a design by Giovanni Muzio who collaborated with architects Gio Ponti and Tommaso Buzzi, the structure sustained major damage during World War II, but was later reconstructed. The nucleus of the temple contains an ossuary on the bottom floor that is surrounded by bronze plaques with the names of ten thousand Milanese who died during the war. Inside there are many beautiful monuments such as Mausoleo di Rosa dei Venti Teodorico or di Atene.

If you are in the area at night, you may be able to notice the signal light at the top of the monument. An electric light beam with four rotating rays can be seen more than ten miles away.

Taking a trip to the Sant’ Ambrogio area of Milan is a definite addition to one’s itinerary. However, if you are a history or war buff, a stop next door to the Temple of Victory helps in one’s understanding Milan’s importance in World War II and the lives lost during this important time in history. Definitely a must see, especially on a beautiful day!

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Temple of Victory

Address: Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 1, Milano
Hours: unknown
Getting There: Take the Metro to metro stop, S. Ambrogio

The Canals of Milan

Everyone knows about the canals of Venice and Amsterdam. But does anyone know that Milan has canals too?

Most visitors to Milan tend to stay in the Duomo area. Though a beautiful and energetic area, a little homework or just asking around, can point you in the right direction in finding Navigli district, an area lesser known to visitors.

In the south of the city, the navigli were a system of five navigable and interconnected canals constructed in 1179 to connect Milan with the nearby lakes. Naviglio Grande, Naviglio Pavese, Naviglio Martesana, Naviglio di Paderno and Naviglio Bereguardo were the waterways used to transport goods to the city from nearby areas, including the marble used in the construction of Milan’s famed landmark, the Duomo.

Today, only three of the canals exist…Naviglio di Paderno and Naviglio Bereguardo having been overlaid. Though the canals are now mainly used for irrigation, two of the canals, Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese are used by tourist operators and you can see their boats motoring up and down the canals during the warmer months of the year.

Riding the metro late in the afternoon, I eyed the many young people, dressed up for the Saturday night. Disembarking at the Porto Genova stop, we all made our way down to the main canal. Being a beautiful sunny day, there were masses of people spilling out from the scores of bars, restaurants and cafes that line the canal. Happy hour was underway and specials were advertised throughout the area, most offering drinks and accompanying appetizer buffets.

Many of the younger set made their way to the grassy areas that line the canal near the Ticinese dock, while families biked the paths that line Navigli Martesana.

Tourists crowded on the the many bridges that span the canals, all clamoring to get that perfect selfie and other artwork was abound with countless galleries and signs pointing to courtyards showcasing local artists work. Design showrooms and temporary outdoor photography and art exhibits can be found throughout the area.

If shopping is your thing, head to the Navigli Grande for the flea market held on the last Sunday of every month, except July. From Viale Gorizia to the bridge on the Via Valenza, covering almost two kilometres on the banks of the Naviglio Grande, you will find everything from jewelry, to furniture to clothing.

Whatever you enjoy, take a moment to head down to this vibrant area of Milan…there is something for everyone!

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Navigli Grande

Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, Porto Genova stop or Tram 2

Ancient Ambrogio

Strolling through the quiet and picturesque neighborhoods of Milan is a peaceful experience.

There are countless churches throughout the city and many that I have earmarked to visit. As I wandered through the streets, I realized that I was near the Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio. Admiring the architecture and stopping every now and then for a picture or two, I took my time as I found my way to the church.

Suddenly, I turned a corner and realized that Sant’ Ambrogio was right before me.

There went the peace and quiet.

On this day, a flower market and a flea market was taking place in the church’s courtyard as well as on the grounds. Masses of people were milling about, buying plants, flowers and clothing and some just enjoying the beautiful, sunny day.

Making my way through the throngs of patrons, I tried to take in the basilica’s enormous atrium and hut shaped facade, flanked by two red brick bell towers, the 9th century Tower of the Monks (Torre dei Monaci, used by the monks to call of the faithful to the monk’s mass) and the canon’s 12th century bell tower, one taller than the other. Two loggias decorate the facade with the upper reserved for the bishops to bless the citizens. Archaeological remains line the walls and deserve a look…when not surrounded by annuals and perennials!

As I entered the basilica, I can say that it is both breathtaking in its beauty but also in its age. Construction of this masterpiece was begun at the end of the 4th century and is known as the oldest church in Milan. Built by St. Ambrose in 379-386, it was established in an area where numerous martyrs of the Roman persecutions had been buried and was originally named Basilica Martyrum.

The first thing you notice when entering the church is that there is no transept. The Romanesque-style church has a semi-circular apse and smaller, semi-circular chapels at the end of the aisles.

Walking along the outer edges of the church, I loved inspecting the many side chapels, including the Chapel of Saint Savina and the Chapel of Saint George which house relics of the saints. The Basilica’s crypt, located under the high altar, contains the remains of three saints, Saint Ambrose, Saint Gervasus and Protasus, all of which may be accessed and viewed. The church also houses the tomb of Emperor Louis II, who died in Lombardy in 875.

The Basilica’s interior also houses the Stilicho’s Sepulchre, a magnificent fourth century sarcophagus with decorated high reliefs and the Oratory of San Vittorio, a chapel built before the first basilica and incorporated during construction.

For an small fee (2€), you may enter the Oratory and view the archaeological remains and beautiful golden domed ceiling.

Though the basilica sustained damage during Allied bombing in 1943, the integrity of the church remains and is one that should be seen while in Milan. Take your time when visiting this magnificent and ancient structure. Hopefully, when you visit, it just might be a little quieter!

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Basilica di Sant’ Ambrogio

http://www.basilicasantambrogio.it/
Address: Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15, 20123 Milano, Italy
Hours: 0700-12:00 and 1430-1900
Admission: free
Admission: Oratory, €2.00
Getting There: Metro line 2 (green line), stop Sant’ Ambrogio. The church is situated just right in front of the exit of the metro. From the Duomo, about a 15 minute walk. Bus lines, 50, 58, 94.