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Ruins, churches and bones.
There are a lot of these in Cusco.
After our return from Machu Picchu, we were determined to discover everything there was in Cusco. We had explored the ruins, now it was time for the churches and bones.
On the first day of our arrival, we had walked through the Plaza San Francisco. Intrigued by the church there, I had walked over and tried the door. It was locked, so I figured we would return on another day.
After perusing maps and information on things to do in the city, I discovered that the church was connected to a monastery and convent and was open to the public for guided tours. This was something I wanted to see…and see how it compared to the San Francisco Monastery in Lima.
As we walked down the hill from our hotel, we entered the plaza and made our way to the museum’s entrance. Paying our entrance fee, we waited patiently for the guide to take us through the property.
After a brief introduction, he uttered those words I hate…”pictures are not allowed”.
Nooooooooooooooooooooooo!
Built in 1572 by the order of Viceroy Francisco de Toledo, the monastery was used until 1650, when an earthquake damaged the property. Restoration put it back into operation until the present, however, where there were once 180 Franciscan monks living on the premises, only three remain.
We were guided through the two-storied property which includes cloisters, a choir, library, refectory, chapels and the church. Many of the paintings are in need of restoration but one of the highlights is the monumental canvas measuring 12 x 9 which depicts the genealogy of the Franciscan family by Juan Espinoza de los Monteros. Allegedly, this painting is the largest in Latin America!
Original carvings and religious artwork, chests, manuscripts and books fill the rooms and I was both mesmerized by what I was seeing, but also disappointed that I could not capture most of it, but for the occasional stolen photo when our guide was not looking.
As we stood in the choir loft of the church, carved of cedar by local Franciscan Friar Luis Montes, Isisdro Fernandez Inka and Antonio Paz, we admired what we could see below in the dimly lit space…the Latin cross plan with three naves and topped with a high square tower. Inquiring of the opening hours so that I might return, we were told that although hours were posted, they are not always reliable.
Continuing on, our guide brought us to the library, filled with massive texts, many of which are extremely valuable. A vast number of books are also housed elsewhere and the space is lit by natural lighting entering from the large, floor-to-ceiling windows.
Finally, we were led to the catacombs which contain the remains of several unknown locals from ancient periods. The first cemetery built in the city, the bones are lined on each side of the hallways located beneath the church. We were led down a stairway in one of the rooms to a cave-like space. Also filled with bones, they were arranged, though not as beautifully as others I have seen, such as in the Capuchin Crypt in Rome and San Bernardino alle Ossa in Milan. An altar honoring Saint Francis of Assisi was also present here and shockingly, I was allowed to take pictures.
Eventually, we were deposited back in the cloisters and left to explore the gardens. Pictures were also allowed, so we snapped a few selfies, to placate my need to capture the moment.
Though many only use Cusco as a stepping stone for their visit to Machu Picchu, there is much to explore in the once historic capital of the Inca Empire. The monastery is centrally located and requires only a short amount of time…take advantage of it!
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San Francisco de Asís Monastery
- Address: Jirón Lampa, Distrito de Lima, Peru, Cusco. Located in the Plaza San Francisco, near the National School of Sciences.
- Hours: Museum, Monday to Friday, 0900-1200 and 1500-1745. Saturday, 0900-1200. Closed Sunday and holidays. Church, Monday to Saturday, 0630 to 2000. Sunday, 0630-1200 and 1700-2000.
- Admission: Museum, General, S / 15.00, National Student, S / 3.00. Church, free admission
Down the road, we headed a short distance, and with the hilly terrain, were glad we didn’t have to walk. Arriving at Q’enqo, our tickets were punched and we entered the premises. Though there wasn’t much signage to let us know what we were seeing, we made our way through the site.
What we learned later, from the book the cab driver gave to us to look through, was that the site was the smallest of the four ruins and was built as a house and ceremonial site for an important Inca citizen. Nestled into a large rock on Socorro Hill, we entered from the rear of the site and found a fully intact ritual altar…a dark reminder of the sacrificial practices of the Incas.
The drive to our next destination wasn’t an extremely long one and we were soon arriving at the former military fortress of Puka Pukara. Located high above Cusco, the small site offers panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and was probably built there to give the military a great view over important parts of the empire. The site consists of large walls, terraces and staircases and is well marked, guiding you throughout.
Just across the highway was the ruins of Tambomachay. A short walk from the road, we anxiously quickened our pace, worried that we would not be able to see everything marked on the map given to us at the entry during our allotted twenty minutes.
Keeping a close eye on the time, it seemed much too soon as we made our way back to the parking area to meet our ride back into town.
As we walked through the large plaza area, Edmundo explained that it was capable of holding thousands of people and was designed for ceremonial activities. The massive terrace walls were the main attraction here, however. The stones used in the wall’s constructions are among the largest used in any building in pre-Hispanic American and so precisely cut and fitted that not even a piece of paper can be inserted between them. The longest wall is approximately 400 meters long and 6 meters tall and appears to be a sort of three dimensional jigsaw puzzle with its largest stone weighing more than 360 tons and 29 feet high. Edmundo pointed out many stones that were cut and placed, forming shapes…a puma’s paw, a llama, a snake, a guinea pig and a bird…shapes we would never have seen had we not had a guide.
As we stood high over the city, the sky darkened and lightening began to flash. So exposed to the elements, we were a bit nervous, however, as accustomed to the ever-changing weather, Edmundo continued his monologue, guiding us through the site, informing us that Sacsayhuamán once had three towers and a labyrinth of rooms large enough to accommodate 5,000 Inca soldiers.
Making our way back down to the parade ground, where the Inti Raymi winter solstice festival is held every June and attended by tens of thousand of spectators, we crossed the massive area over to the Rodadero which was believed to be the religious and ceremonial section. Most of the structures once at the Rodadero were torn down by the Spaniards and later inhabitants of Cusco. We were led down below ground through a passage, ducking our heads to make our way through and emerging above ground in another area. Fun as that was, the best part was coming across the high, smooth rocks that descended in a wavy pattern. Edmundo led me carefully uphill and had me sit. Scooting forward, I began to slide down, faster and faster until I reached the bottom! Yes, the Incas surely must have had fun on this!
As we disembarked and made our way to the entrance, there were many guides seeking to assist visitors. Although we had originally thought we would hire a guide, when we finally made a decision on one particular person, someone hired them before we could. We finally decided to tour the premises on our own, a decision I realized would probably benefit me more than my husband. When I am trying to capture a place photographically, I always feel a bit disrespectful when I am shooting while they are speaking, however, if I don’t capture what I want to and we quickly move on, I feel a bit cheated. Since, it would have been just him and I, it would have been more evident that I was only half listening than when we were part of a group.
As we made our way up the Cultivation Terraces, we found our way to the City Gate and then on to the Cemetery, Funerary Rock and the House of the Guardians, finding that some amazing views of Machu Picchu can be had here.
Half an hour later, we returned to find an even greater number of people on the premises, making descent to the lower portion of Machu Picchu difficult. Spying llama nearby, we used them as a distraction for a while to rest up for the fight down the stairways.
Following the crowds, we made our way past the Temple of the Three Windows, the Main Temple and the Main Square with park directors keeping everyone on the path and moving in one direction. Eventually, we made it to the Sacred Rock and noticed the entrance to Huayna Picchu, the starting point to an arduous climb to the soaring pinnacle. Though we had had the opportunity to purchase tickets for the climb, staring up at this peak and the minuscule figures making their way up the steep paths, we were glad that we had skipped that part. Though I am not afraid of heights, I couldn’t image making my way up to the top…I was having trouble with the lack of oxygen in the higher altitudes on some of the simpler paths.
Once we checked back with our hotel, we were led through the maze of stairways and hallways leading up to our room on one of the top floors at the rear of the property. Dark wood and white plaster walls were complimented with brightly, woven fabrics. The place was neat and clean and we had a small balcony to sit and enjoy the surrounding mountain walls.
After settling in, we set out to see the town. Consisting of a main square, Plaza Manco Capac, and small passageways set into the mountainside, a railway line cuts through the western part of the town, running northwest to south, most important to the town’s viability. As we walked along the tracks, we watched the town in action, loading and unloading supplies brought in from larger Peruvian cities. Occasionally, the Explorer and Vistadome trains rumbled through and once, we even saw the Hiram Bingham glide by with its 1920’s-style carriages, finished with polished wood and brass. Inside, we could see tables set with white table cloths and fine china and the Observation Car where fortunate travelers can watch the Peruvian countryside with no barrier between them and the fresh air. It was nice to see, as with the prices charged for that type of adventure, it was as close as we were going to get!
We took a walk along Avenida Hermanos Ayar to see where the buses would pick us up in the morning for our trek to Machu Picchu. Buses of weary tourists were arriving from that day’s mountain adventure and it was exciting to think that in a little more than twelve hours, we were going to be setting out from this spot for our adventure of a lifetime.
Next, we made our way up the steep hill toward the hot springs. Although we had brought swimsuits, we decided on the advice of a friend, to skip this adventure. She said that the best time to visit is in the morning when the waters are fresher and not contaminated by the sweaty hikers who have descended from Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail. We checked out the entrance and the shops that rent swimsuits, sandals and towels. Reading up on the attraction later, we found reviews not so favorable, ranging from complaints of urine smells, mold and scum floating on the surface, so we were extremely glad that we had decided against a visit.
Finally, out last stop was the Mercado Artesanal. A vast labyrinth of stalls filled with t-shirts, jewelry, alpaca sweaters, bags, hats and other trinkets, it was confusing yet amusing to peruse this market and we picked up a few things for our children and ourselves.
Though our stay in Aguas Calientes was a short one, I thought the town to be quite charming and glad that we had given ourselves enough time to enjoy it. Once I had posted pictures taken during our stay, another friend confided to me that they had done one of the tours of the Sacred Valley, which had them arriving in Aguas Calientes after dark, departing for Machu Picchu early in the morning and returning to town, only to catch the train and return to Cusco. She loved my pictures and felt like she had been short-changed, wishing that she had had some time to wander around the small town. That being said, we also spoke with another couple who had decided to stay in Aguas Calientes for two nights. With so little to do other than Machu Picchu, they considered two nights to be a bit much.
Having opted to catch the train from the nearby Poroy Station, we set out early in the morning by taxi. As we neared the station, our cab driver attempted to communicate with us and with his limited Spanish, we were concerned that he was lost. Finally, as we pulled into the station parking lot, we learned that he wanted to know our return time the next night so he could pick us up. As I negotiated the price, I felt some relief knowing that upon our arrival, we would not have to hope for transportation back to our hotel.
Almost four hours from the start of our journey in Poroy, we felt the train slowing once again as we pulled into the station at Aguas Calientes, Machu Picchy Station. So excited to begin our exploration of a new part of Peru, we grabbed our bags and headed out, eager to see what this small town had to offer.
Bracing myself for the lack of oxygen required for the climb, we followed our guide and the rest of the Pachamama Group (Mother Earth), as we were now known. Tickets purchased and validated, we were led up another hill past a small market offering colorful blankets, hats and trinkets to a plaza in front of a beautiful adobe church.
Though we were only able to inspect the church’s exterior, we learned that it was constructed in 1607 by the Spanish on the site of an Incan palace, believed to be that of Inca Tupac Tupanqui. The interior was described to be quite lovely with ornate painted ceilings and Catholic and traditional motifs.
Moving on to the open area past the church, we gazed out onto the beautiful, green, mountainous landscape and the fertile terraces and aqueducts, many still in use today. Produce grown on the land includes potatoes, olluco, oca, quinoa and fava beans and are sold at the local market. The ruins of the summer palace of Tupac Tupanqui can still be seen spilling down the hillside with splendid stonework and a stone throne with intricate carvings.
After boarding our bus, we headed a short distance down the road into the center of Chinchero. Home to the Interpretation Center of Andean Textiles, the traditionally dressed women of the village offer weaving demonstrations to visitors, describing the age-old methods of making colors for the wool, and how the wool is washed, dyed and spun.
After a vibrantly woven hat caught my eye, I made a deal with one of the young men working on the premises and then exited to the bus for our next stop, Moray.
Located about 27 kilometers from Chinchero, Moray, is believed to have been used as an agricultural laboratory by the Incas. Though not much more is known, there is speculation that the amphitheater-looking, circular, terraced depressions were used to test and experiment with crops. With temperature differences at each level of the terraces of 15 degrees Celsius, it is believed that each level was used to grow different crops and to test hybridization. Possibly, the many variations of potato grown in Peru originated at Moray.
The mineral-rich (magnesium, iron, calcium and zinc) salt is said to have healing properties and claim to help reduce stress and prevent conditions such as anemia and osteoporosis, in addition to being handy in the kitchen.
Continuing our journey in the mid-day, it was time to head to Urubamba and our lunch. Our group was divided into three and we were all dropped off at different restaurants, though I am not sure what differentiated us into these groups, guessing that it may have been the price we paid for each of our tours. My husband and I and two other couples were deposited at Inka’s House, a large buffet-style restaurant. The food was good at our lunch spot, though others claimed their restaurant was not very good.
As I began the arduous task of making my way to the top, I decided to revel in the climb and enjoy the view every time I had to stop for a breath. Slowly, I climbed, joining forces with another woman, who also insisted she couldn’t make it to the top. With much encouragement for each other, I finally caught up to my husband to the entrance to the temple complex, a short distance from the top.
The Temple of the Sun, an incomplete holy place holds the Wall of the Six Monoliths with its 50 ton stones and is the sight where all the tourists want to take their picture, showing the completion of their ascent. The temple was used as a calendar with its sun dials and other features.
Exiting the fortress area, we made our way through the Mercado Turistico. Taking a quick glance around, it was a colorful affair and we wished that time was included in our itinerary to browse the vendor’s stalls. Quickly grabbing two waters, we fought the crowds to keep up with our group and make our way back to our bus. Once on board, we discovered a few empty seats. No, we hadn’t lost anyone on the mountain, some of our group left us at this point to catch the train to Aguas Calientes, beginning their sojourn to Machu Picchu.
Making our way out of town, we headed up into the mountains. Our guide explained that since the gates to Pisac close at 4:00, we had to drive rather quickly in order to enter. Watching the clock closely as the day was coming to a close, we finally arrived with minutes to spare. Making our way to the parking area, we exited the bus an followed our guide up the terraced hillside to the citadel which sits at 9,751 feet, keeping watch over the village below.
The wind was strong here and as the day was drawing to a close, we quickly walked through the site back to the parking lot and waiting bus, pausing to pose for a quick photo under the entrance sign.
Our last stop was in the town of Pisac, one that I had been very excited about. I had heard great things about their famous market and looked forward to purchasing some unique souvenirs. However, as we drove down the mountain, the sky was growing dark leading me to realize that the market would probably be closing upon our arrival. My prediction was accurate, but we were brought to a jewelry store for a lesson on assessing the quality of silver. Since it was communicated in Spanish, we attempted to understand, however, it was easier to browse the merchandise.
After a walk through some of the small markets and a glimpse at the Presidential Palace, we jumped back into a cab and headed back toward Miraflores. Traffic of course, was at its usual, almost standstill. Heading down Avenue Arequipa, we made a quick decision to stop our driver near a street heading to Huaca Pucllana (read about my first visit on my post A Peruvian Pyramid), a great adobe and clay pyramid which served as an important ceremonial and administrative center between the years of 200 and 700 AD. Luckily, an English tour was about to commence and were able to follow along, learning about the historic structure.
Finally, we headed back toward Parque Kennedy in the center of Miraflores. Walking through the park, I pointed out the Church of the Miraculous Virgin (read about my first visit in my post The Colonial Church) and City Hall. Guiding my husband toward a store, La Quinta, with tables piled high with clothing, he inquired as to whether he was going to get some of the churros that I always talk about. Yes, but first a little shopping expedition (read more about it in my blog post Shop Til You Drop)!
So, we were up early the next morning and heading even further south into Peru. Though is was an arduous task getting to the airport, even with easy Saturday traffic, the check-in process with LC Peru was quite simple and before lunchtime, we had already checked into our hotel in Cusco.
Finally, with tickets in hand, we set out to accomplish the last of our tasks of the day, collecting our tickets for our Sacred Valley tour the next morning. This tour had been set up for us by a friend of a friend. As we found the office, met the agent and paid for the tour tickets, we were instructed on our pick up time in the morning and what our day would entail…lots of stops, beautiful ruins, interaction with the local people and lunch. Very excited about to hear what our upcoming day, we bid our travel agent goodbye and continued our explorations of the Plaza de Armas, culminating with a scrumptious, Peruvian dinner.
For the past few years, I have enviously swiped through my friend’s Facebook posts about their sojourns to Machu Picchu. Spying them perched on the mountainside with the picturesque citadel spread out below them…and the occasional llama or two…I envisioned myself there one day.
LATAM? Avianca? Star Peru? Peruvian? LC Peru? Viva Air Peru?
Second order of business…getting to Aguas Calientes. The Peru Rail website was pretty straightforward and we decided that we would travel from Cusco Poroy station to Aguas Calientes, instead of from Ollantaytambo, which required a lengthy taxi or bus ride. Pricing wasn’t much different and we would leave early, arriving around 11:00 am. After selecting our options, the website made a reservation and charged my credit card, however, it did not generate tickets. I knew something was off but not sure what the problem was. After two phone calls to Peru, I finally found someone at Peru Rail who could help. Six hours later, many emails back and forth, plus the submittal of information requested, we finally had tickets. A refund for the first charges was processed about a week later.
Next, we needed a hotel room in Aguas Calientes. There are many options from hostels to high-end spas. After perusing different choices on Agoda, I decided that with so little time at the hotel, it was not prudent to spend a great deal for one night. Deciding on a mid-grade room, this was booked and paid for.
Figuring out what to pack was much tougher than I expected and I spent many days, shopping and then returning items that I ultimately decided were not what the trip required. The weather seemed to change on a dime and everyone uttered those words I hate, “bring layers”. The weather forecast even gave the type of temperatures that I hate, “60s”! 60 in the sun, can be totally different than 60 in the shade!