weimere@aol.com – Page 18 – Snapping The Globe

Cuba Cruising, Chevy Style

There was one thing I wanted to do in Cuba.

Ride in one of the beautifully restored classic automobiles.

Since my Airbnb hosts had sent a classic car to retrieve me from the airport, that request was already fulfilled.

Okay…kind of.

Though I had seen a bit of the city from this old Ford on my way to the Airbnb, it wasn’t quite what I had envisioned. I pictured myself perched in a convertible, taking in the sunshine and the major sites of the city.

Having heard of Strawberry Tours, I decided to book their Vintage Car Tour. Reading up on the nature of their tour, I learned that I could book one seat in the car for $29 or the entire car for $99. Well, since I’m not a fan of sharing space with others (those who may or may not get in the way of my photo opportunities), I decided that the entire car was worth the splurge!

My second day in Havana started with a hearty breakfast at my Airbnb. Though it was not included in the nightly rate, I decided that it would be a great way to experience some local culture and cuisine and requested that it be ready for me before I ventured out. It was a delicious spread consisting of eggs, toast and lots of fresh fruit, preparing me for a long day of sightseeing!

The meeting point was only three blocks away and I paced back and forth, hoping that I had indeed gotten the location right.

A few minutes later, a beautiful, red convertible Chevrolet pulled up. My guide and driver both introduced themselves and invited me to walk around, inspect and take as many pictures of this classic beauty as I could manage. It was quite evident that they were pleased with my admiration of the car and that I was to be their only client (something that probably made their job a lot easier) for the tour.

Jumping into the back seat, we set off, driving the narrow streets as Eduardo, my tour guide, began to give me his introductory remarks and Luis, navigated.

Our first stop was the Fabrica de Tabaco Partagas, so that I could see one of the trademarks of Cuba…cigars. Though I think that this location was once an actual Factory, it is more of a store and an opportunity to purchase some souvenir cheroots. Not much of a smoker, I admired the sights and of course, smells, before we set off for different parts of the city.

Heading away from Old Havana, we drove through Chinatown, feeling the wind in my hair and thinking how fortunate I was to be able to experience this old city in this manner. Not really sure of the landmarks we were going to visit, I was surprised when we pulled into the parking lot at the Plaza de la Revolución.

The Plaza de la Revolución is huge…72,000 square meters and the thirty-first largest city square in the world. At first, I thought we had just pulled into a parking lot because there were so many cars, however, in fact it becomes a parking lot for the many tours that frequent the area and our beautiful Ford captured the attention of many other visitors. What caught my attention, however, was the tall tower and statue which pay tribute to Jose Marti and on the other side of the square, the buildings of the Ministry of Interior and Communications. These buildings are the real highlights of the plaza with the giant matching steel facades which display the most important heroes of the Cuban Revolution, Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos.

Originally called the Plaza Cívica (Civic Square) after its construction in 1959, it was later renamed after the revolution, as this was the location where many political rallies took place with political figures, including Fidel Castro, addressed the crowds. Years later, two of the most important religious figures of the world, sermonized the predominately Cuban Catholic population from this same location…Pope John Paul II in 1998 and Pope Francis in 2015.

Other important buildings are located here, including the National Library and the Palace of the Revolution, the seat of the Cuban government and Communist Party. Since our time was limited, we were unable to check out these landmarks at closer range, however, I do suggest taking the time to visit and inspect the monument in this important location.

Moving on, we drove through neighborhoods boasting cemeteries, restaurants and homes, finally making our way into a remarkable green space…the Parque Almendares, also known as the Havana Forest. After pulling into a parking lot adjacent to a small snack bar, the first thing that caught my eye was a beautiful, red Model T Ford parked in the rear. An elderly man sat in the front seat and a small sign posted on the front window advised that photos were not free. I gladly gave him a few dollars so that I could photograph this lovingly-preserved antique. As I told him that I was photographing the car for my father-in-law, a collector (who was also in possession of one), he became very excited and wanted to show me every well-tuned detail, including the engine, the spare tires, axles and rumbleseat! He even insisted that I sit in the car so that I could have a photograph for my father-in-law.

Saying our goodbyes, I walked around this area of the park, near the river. Eduardo informed me that on some days, you can witness those who participate in the Afro-Cuban religion of Santeria making animal sacrifices on the banks of the Rio Almendares. Thankfully, this was not one of those days!

As we returned to the parking lot, I learned what to expect at every parking lot we would come to. The owners of the dazzling cars that had brought other visitors, had their hoods open so that they, and anyone else who wanted to take a look, could! Of course I made my way around my favorites!

Heading out of the park, we drove toward the coast and along the famed Malecón, the broad esplanade and seawall that stretches for five miles along the azure waters of the Caribbean. It is a spectacular and popular destination in Havana and a spot to see fishermen casting their lines and families and friends taking leisurely strolls.

As I enjoyed the sunshine, blue skies and spirited Spanish music being played on the radio, I relished the scenery. There are a number of important monuments along the way, including those of General Maximo Gomez, Antonio Maceo, General Calixto Garcia and the Monuments to the Victims of the USS Maine as well as many buildings of interest, such as the United States Embassy and the spectacular Cuban National Hotel, set high on a cliff.

Transiting the Tunel de La Habana, we drove to the Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro, one of the symbols of Havana. It is a landmark that is most visited by both tourists and locals and has appeared in many movies over the years. As we stood near the entrance, Eduardo gave me a brief history of this stunning fortress, but again, time was limited and there was no chance to check out its interiors.

Hopping back into our candy-apple hued Chevy, we made our way past another fortress, Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana, where historic cannons are fired nightly and the Museo Historico Militar Exhibition. We drove slowly past the assortment of military equipment on display from the Cuban Missile Crisis and I made a mental note that this might be a place that I would like to return.

Pulling into a small parking lot and spotting something towering at the end of a pathway, I realized that we were going to visit Havana’s version of the Christ statue, El Cristo de La Habana. Having visited many other Christ statues in the world, I was excited to see the scale of this one up close.

During the turbulent 1950’s, president Fulgencio Batista commissioned a colossal statue of Christ, hoping to gain support of the predominately Christian population. Sculpted by Jilma Madera, a well-known Cuban artist, it was a simple piece, made in Italy, carved from Carrara marble and blessed by Pope Pius XII. Even though the monument was designed with the best intentions, bad luck followed its inauguration. Fidel Castro conquered Havana and took control of the country, religion was made illegal and the military zone near the statue was placed under strict control, leaving the grand statue to be forgotten for more than thirty years.

In the 1990’s, the government reopened the site, so that the Christ statue might look down onto the port of Havana and the citizens and tourists could enjoy its beauty. In addition to admiring the statue, it is the perfect spot to take in the incredible views of the city and the port. Though not as large as the one in Rio, I thought that this Christ had a more delicate and graceful appearance.

We returned to our car, checking out a few others in the parking lot, as this was now a thing! It was time, however, to return to the point where we had departed from a few hours earlier, in what I had now started to think of as my Chevy. Yes indeed, I was becoming attached!

As we drove down Teniente Rey street, I sadly realized my time cruising around Havana in the Chevy was now over. My time in that Chevy, however, showed me what a fabulous city it was and even though there was so much I had seen of the city so far, there was so much still to go. Saying goodbye to Eduardo and Luis and the Chevy, I made my way to a local sanwicheria, hoping to grab a bite to eat and plan my next move!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Strawberry Tours

https://strawberrytours.com/havana/tours/vintag
e-car-tours
Address: Meeting point, Teniente Rey 360
Hours: Tours start at 0900 and 1145
Price: One seat, $29 or Full Car, $99 for 0900 tour and one seat, $34 or Full Car, $109 for 1145 tour.
Tours conducted in English and Spanish

Fabrica de Tabaco Partagas

Address: Calle Industria, Havana, Cuba
Hours: 0900-1330
Admission: 10 CUC ($10 US)

Plaza de la Revolución

Address: Avenida Paseo, La Habana, Cuba, Havana Plaza De La Revolucion
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: Free

Parque de Almendares

Address: Below the bridge on Calle 23, Havana Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: Free

Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro

http://www.lahabana.com/guide/castillo-de-los-tres-reyes-del-morro/
Address: La Habana del Este, Havana, Cuba
Hours: 1000-1900, daily
Admission: 4 CUC ($4.00 US)

Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana

Address: Parque Histórico Militar Morro-Cabaña
Hours: 0800-2300, daily
Admission: 6 CUC, daytime hours, 8 CUC, nightime hours ($6.00 and $8.00 US)

Museo Historic Militar

Address: 4MW3+Q2, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Unknown
Admission: Free

El Cristo de La Habana

Address: Casa Blanca, Havana Cuba
Hours: 24 hours
Admission: Free
Getting There: Taxi (about 10 CUC) or Ferry from Terminal de Ferris, Lancha Habana-Casa Blanca. Ferry fare about .45 CUC (.45 US).

Hello Havana!

Stepping onto Obrapia Street, I first looked left and then right.

First instincts were to gauge how safe I felt in this new city. Heading back one block, I decided to walk along Obispo Street, which is only open to foot traffic. Walking along this pedestrian friendly thoroughfare, I noticed that it was very well kept and there were many shops, banks, parks, restaurants and a few museums.

Ducking into an artisan market, I browsed the unique souvenirs available and then made my way across the street to inspect a statue of Don Quixote by Leo D’Lazaro (1989), in the Parque de Obispo. There were many locals relaxing in the shade of the large, old trees and the smell of Cuban cuisine filled the air.

Taking a seat on one of the benches, I observed the passersby. Everyone was going about their business and there appeared to be many tourists in the area, making me feel more comfortable. I felt good about venturing further.

After taking a look at my map, I decided to walk westward toward the famous El Floridita bar, located at the Parque Francisco de Albear y Lara. Floridita is a historic fish restaurant and cocktail bar located across from the National Museum of Fine Arts of Havana. It is a hot tourist spot, perfect for people watching and known for having been one of the favorite hangouts of Ernest Hemingway. Though I never made it inside, I was told that there is a life size bronze statue of the writer and excellent daiquiris!

Interesting little tuk-tuks were parked all along the square, waiting for someone to hire them, and along with horse-drawn carriages, there were countless classic beauties driving through and parked inside the square. It was evident that the owners were quite proud of their vehicles and most posed alongside waiting for someone to hire them or just engage them in conversation. I watched as many a gentleman popped the hood, eager to share the immaculate condition of their automobiles.

Continuing on, I walked through the Parque Central among the tall, elegant palm trees lining the square and admired the statue of Jose Marti, poet, essayist, patriot and martyr, who became the symbol of Cuba’s struggle for independence from Spain.

*Parque Central and Jose Marti Monument*

Next on my walking tour was the Boulevard de San Rafael where I spotted the London Bar, Hotel Inglaterra and many old but intriguing buildings. Back to the corner of the boulevard and the Paseo di Marti, I stood in awe of the National Theater. True elegance reigned here, both on the exterior and the interior, as it is the home of the Cuban National Ballet. The Baroque exterior boasts some amazing white marble sculptures which are part of a group of ninety-seven by Giuseppe Moretti and Geneva Mercer and represent charity, education, music and theater. There were posters advertising upcoming performances and I wondered if I could somehow procure tickets for a memorable evening!

What I had spied from my balcony now stood before me…the National Capitol Building or El Capitolio. One of the most visited sites in Havana, the building dates back to the initiation of its construction in 1926 and is located in the exact center of Havana. Prior to the Cuban Revolution of 1959, Congress was housed in the building until it was abolished and disbanded. The building fell into disrepair and since 2013, the government of Cuba has undertaken a restoration project hoping to use the building once again for Cuba’s National Assembly.

Although its design looks much like the United States Capitol, it is a meter higher, a meter wider, a meter longer and much richer in detail. Until the 1950’s, it was the tallest building in the city and houses the world’s third largest indoor statue, located in the apse. La Republica or the Statue of the Republic stands at almost 92 meters high. There are also statues at the main entrance, flanking the fifty-two steps, by Angelo Zanelli, twelve ionic granite columns measuring forty-six feet tall and three large bronze doors with bas-reliefs also by Zanelli which allow access to the main hall. Though I would have loved to have toured the building, it was later in the day and I wasn’t sure it was open. There were other things that I wanted to see, so I hoped that I could squeeze the Capitol into one of my other activity-packed days.

Leisurely strolling along the Paseo di Marti, I admired the unique lamp posts, colorful buildings and the occasional classic car that drove by. Crossing the street near the Capitol, I entered the Parque de la Fraternidad or Fraternity Park with its multitude of busts of Latin and North American leaders. Once known as the Square of Mars and the site of military exercises, the park is now a busy meeting place and centered with a massive ceilba tree.

After making my way around the park I casually glanced down the street and noticed something that I was not expecting to see. A Chinese gate!

Yes, Havana has a Chinatown!

Though not very ornate in nature, it was surprising and probably one of the only places in the world that you will spot antique Fords and Chevrolets driving though its arch. Making my way only a short distance past the gate, I learned from my tour guide the next day, that there are actually some pretty good Chinese restaurants in this area.

There were many buildings in various states of repair or disrepair. As I walked along Cienfuegos Street, one of the most photographed areas in the city and known for its unique architectural elements, I remember thinking that some might think it is not a beautiful part of the city because not everything was new and shiny. I, however, thought the opposite. I loved every bit of peeling paint, every cracked pane of glass, trees growing off of the roofs, every colorful, but dirt-covered tile and every rusty piece of ironwork. This was a city with character.

Realizing that it was the beginning of the end of the day (a very long one, I might add), I decided to make my way back towards my hotel with the hopes of finding a nice little outdoor restaurant where I could have a nice cold beer and watch the world go by!

But first, as I made my way through Parque Cristo, admiring the monument in the center, I noticed something that I could not resist…a church, Iglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen Viaje. Since this was my first visit to a church in Havana, I wasn’t sure of the protocol for visitors, especially since this seemed like more of a neighborhood church. The woman at the door, however, greeted me warmly and allowed me to walk through freely and take photos. There were many beautiful stained glass windows and interesting statues but the ceiling was what gave this church its singularity. I learned that this church is one of the oldest in Havana, dating back to 1755 and once acted as the Cathedral of Havana…I picked a good one for my first!

*Iglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen Viaje*

Winding my way back to Obispo Street, I walked along with the crowds, admiring the architecture and every little thing that I could take in. Finally, locating a restaurant with outdoor seating, I grabbed a seat, ordered some food and ordered the beer that I had been thirsting for during my wanderings under the blazing Cuban sun. All the while, I relaxed and enjoyed the Cuban musical stylings of local musicians.

As I wandered back to my Airbnb, it was growing dark.

But, you know what? I never once glanced over my shoulder. I never worried about anyone hiding in some dark corner. In fact, I was awed by the gentlemen who stepped off the sidewalk to allow me to pass. I was awed by the hospitality of everyone I met and the pleasant greetings extended to me when they found out I was an American.

Now, why was I nervous about coming?

Sitting on my balcony that night, I watched the children play in the street below and the neighbors sitting on their stoops listening to music and talking until late. Though I could still hear the goings-on through my closed balcony door, once I crawled into bed, it really didn’t bother me.

It was Havana!

Hello Havana!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

El Floridita Bar and Restaurant

https://www.facebook.com/Bar-Floridita-639688816080211
Address: Obispo 557 Esquina a Monserrate esq. a Monserrate, Havana Vieja, Havana, 10100 Cuba
Hours: 1100-2400, daily

National Theater

Address: Plaza de la Revolucion Havana, Cuba
The theater has 4 ticket offices located on the south side (Avenida Paseo) of the facility. Their hours of operation are Monday through Friday from 1000-1200 and 1300-1400. When the shows take place on Saturdays, Sundays, Mondays or holidays, the ticket offices open from 1000 until just 30 minutes after the start of the presentation.

El Capitolio

Address: Paseo de Marti, Havana 10200
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 1030-2200 and Sunday 1030-1300

Iglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen Viaje

Address: Plaza del Cristo, La Habana Vieja, Havana, Cuba

So…You Want To Go To Cuba?

Yes please.

Maybe because Cuba was denied to U.S. citizens for so long, it is a place that has held a place of honor at the top of many bucket lists when it was finally opened up again.

There were many times when I thought I would work it into my travel schedule. Sometimes something else came up…or the flights were full…or I just plain chickened out. The fact that there was no cellphone service and no connection to the mainland honestly frightened me, especially if I was going to travel there by myself or with my children.

But, each time that I didn’t take that risk, I wanted to kick myself later.

Seeing some free time on my schedule, earlier this year, I decided that I was definitely going to make this trip to Cuba happen!

Maybe.

I hoped.

Since I was going to be traveling standby, I had to watch the flights carefully and my accommodations had to be booked only when I absolutely knew that I was going to make it there.

At two in the morning, I still wasn’t sure if I was going to leave for Havana in the morning. I lay in bed struggling with the decision, my stomach in knots, wondering if I was doing the right thing. On a whim, I messaged a few Airbnb owners and explained my situation. I was going to catch an early flight to Atlanta, arriving around 7:30 a.m. At that point, I would watch the flight to Havana for an hour and then reach out to make my reservation. My biggest question was whether or not I would have enough time to hear back from them to confirm the reservation and for them to forward me the address of the accommodation. If I landed with no cell service and no address…well, you can see why I was stressed.

Almost immediately, one of the owner’s responded. He understood my circumstances and right away, sent me the address. He told me that he would await my reservation at the appointed time and that he could also arrange for a car and driver to pick me up at the airport.

One hurdle down. I could get an hour’s sleep.

After arriving at the airport, I watched the flight which was departing in four hours and after deciding that I would probably make it, I set up the reservation and secured the car and driver.

Hurdle two, down.

Settling down at the gate, I filled out the visa paperwork that was required and paid the visa fee. The agents had a lot to do with the visa processing of the other passengers and the boarding process and I stood by nervously praying that I had not made the Airbnb reservation unnecessarily. Finally, the agent motioned me over to the counter, giving me a seat assignment and my proof of insurance.

Hurdle three, down.

Walking down the jetway, I thought, “This is my last chance to bail. Am I making the right decision?”

My seat was in first class and much to the dismay of the gentleman next to me, he suddenly learned that I was infringing upon the extra space that he thought he was going to have. Graciously, however, he greeted me and informed me that he had cleaned my seat with his supply of Lysol wipes!

As we began to speak, I told him how nervous I was and learned that this was his 120th trip to Cuba! You know how they say that sometimes things happen for a reason? Well, I must have been placed next to this man for the sole purpose of making me feel good about my decision to travel to Havana on my own.

At one time, he worked as a contractor for my airline when the need arose for a liaison between the airline and the government for the onset of the initial service. Prior to that and currently, he worked and is working as a tour operator. After learning where I was staying, he made me feel extremely confident about my decision as he had booked clients at this particular property. He was surprised to hear how hesitant I was, despite having traveled around the world, sometimes solo, and assured me that I would be completely safe. After giving me a list of restaurant recommendations and special items of interest, he reached up into his baggage and pulled out a Cuban tour book. Opening it to the Old Havana section, he suggested that I spend the flight looking through it and photographing the sections that interested me.

The book was outstanding and by the time I spotted the lush, green landscape sprawling below, I was only feeling excited anticipation!

Exiting customs and immigration, I exchanged currency and then spotted a driver holding a sign with my name. As he led me into the parking lot, my breath caught a little in my chest. I had heard about the antique cars that populate the city, but this was my first glimpse of the many positioned in the lot and my driver led me to a beautiful, old turquoise Ford. It was thrilling to ride in such a beautiful antique and though I don’t speak much Spanish and he didn’t speak much English, we managed a few pleasantries and we embarked on the journey towards my hotel in Old Havana.

After an enlightening forty-five minute drive (yes, the airport is that far!), we turned onto a narrow street and pulled in front of the building that houses Havana Dream, the Airbnb that was going to be my home for the next three nights. I thanked my lucky stars that we had arranged a driver to meet me as the building was nondescript and probably would have been difficult for a regular cab driver to find.

Greeted warmly by my host and his manager, I was shown to my room, a very modern and well-appointed space with a small balcony overlooking the street and down to the National Capitol building. What a sight!

I had made it!

Now what?

Last hurdle. I needed to go out. After quizzing the house manager about the time of sunset and safety measures, I decided to take a rousing shower and dress casually enough for going out, yet smartly enough to stay out for dinner and the return before dark.

Descending the stairs, I cautiously opened the door and stepped out onto Obrapia Street.

Despite not having had decided to travel here a mere twelve hours earlier, I was finally here. My 76th country! I had mounted many hurdles to get here and it was time to see what lay in store for me.

Old Havana was out there waiting to be discovered!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Note: ATM machines and credit cards do not work for American credit cards in Cuba. American cash and other currencies can be exchanged at the airport. Bring more currency than you expect to use. Though my Airbnb arranged for the transportation, I was responsible for the fare, 30CUC. My Airbnb also provided currency exchange when needed at local, published bank rates. Additionally, wifi cards could be purchased from my Airbnb which could be used while at my accommodations, however, because I was using an Iphone, once the card’s service was initiated, it was prudent to use all of the minutes allotted or risk losing it.

Havana Dream

Address: 408 Obrapia Street, Old Havana, Cuba
Prices vary, but approximately $65-$75 per night.

At Fort Copa…To The Tune of Barry Manilow

Copacabana beach is a spectacle to behold.

Beautiful sands, highlighted by emerald waters and scantily clad bodies are what many visitors come to the city for!

Plus, who can’t stop the Barry Manilow song “Copacabana” playing in your head!

Having participated in and beheld the spectacle that is Rio’s Carnivale the night before, sleep was what I needed most, but I also did not want to miss out on a warm, cloudless day! Forcing myself up and out of bed, I decided to head to the beach, but realizing that I had somehow forgotten my bathing suit, I decided that scantily clad is not what I wanted to shoot for!

Deciding that I would still go to the beach, it would just be in a different capacity. At the far end of the beach is Fort Copacabana and the least I could do would be to squeeze in a bit of Rio’s culture and history.

As an Uber took me through the crowded streets, filled with revelers, I was glad that I was protected inside a vehicle as I watched a young girl lose her phone to a quick-footed thief! Thankfully, my driver safely deposited me at the entrance to the fort soon after!

There are a few items of interest in the entrance courtyard, including a shrine to Santa Barbara, as well as the ticket counter to obtain entry, but after entering its giant white-washed portal, it is the sumptuous views of the Copacapana beaches and and the pristine waters of the Atlantic ocean that grab your attention. There are a few pieces of military equipment lining the sea wall and a couple of quaint cafes here to enjoy the views.

Dating back to its inception in 1914, the fort is a museum which showcases many exhibits pertaining to the Brazilian Army. It was one of the most modern installations of its time and was constructed to guard the entrance to Guanabara Bay and the adjacent coastline.

In 1922, the fort was involved in an unsuccessful military uprising but was eventually converted into the Army History Museum when there was no need for Coast Artillery Batteries.

The Army History Museum is the first part of the property that can be toured. It is filled with military memorabilia and exhibits on the Brazilian military’s history.

Continuing along the walkway, I entered the actual fort and made my way through each of the exhibits, some showcasing ammunitions and others, the living and work spaces of the soldiers assigned there I marveled at the beautiful tile work and iron works decorating the arched doorways. Exploring the infirmary and engine rooms, I made my way throughout the passageways, some decorated with dioramas depicting various events in the history of Brazil.

Of special interest within the main building is the small Chapel of the Senora of Copacabana. The fort was built on the peninsula where the original church of the Nossa Senhora de Copacabana was located and the shrine gave the soldiers a place to worship and pray.

The exterior and its grounds were a maze of walkways leading to the top of the fort where the ocean’s mighty waves crashed against its base and on its topmost location is a mighty cannon. It is the perfect place to grab a spot and enjoy the beauty of not only the fort but Rio itself.

So I didn’t get to enjoy the sunshine that afternoon at the beach. I got to enjoy the sunshine at the Fort while soaking up some of Brazil’s rich history. I think that is better than any tan!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Historical Museum of the Army and Copacabana Fort

http://www.mhexfc.eb.mil.br/pt-br/
Address: Praça Coronel Eugênio Franco, 1, Rio de Janeiro – RJ 22070-020, Brazil
Hours: 1000-1800, Tuesday to Sunday. Closed Mondays.
Admission: Adults, R $6, Students, Teachers, Seniors, 60+ and Youth ID holders, R $3. Free, Members of the military and dependents, Seniors over 80 years, Disabled, Children under 6 years, Tour guides

Carnivale Time!

Being a Louisiana native, experiencing Mardi Gras is something that I was able to check off of my bucket list many times over the years.

If attending Mardi Gras was number one on my list of all-time greatest parties, then experiencing Rio’s Carnivale was a close second.

The thought of attending Carnivale in Rio was something that had intrigued me for many years. I had been to Rio before and although I had navigated the city without incident, I must admit, I understood that it wasn’t the safest of places, so trying to find a hotel room and trying to figure out how the parades worked scared me off.

Luckily, I found myself in the position to be able to travel to Rio for work during Carnivale and actually be there for a whole forty-eight hours! The hotel room was secured, but I still had a lot of work to do to figure out how to go to the parades and festivities. And where were they by the way?

After phone calls to a friend with contacts in the city and a lot of googling, I learned a lot. Mainly that Carnival’s festivities differ a bit from Mardi Gras.

A friend explained that she had visited before and took part in the street parties that navigated the roadways in many of the neighborhoods. She described the costumes that the participants wore (a lot of tu-tus and bikini tops) and how crowded the areas could become thus necessitating many security measures. It was definitely something I probably would not want to do alone. She had never, however, gone to the Sambadrome to see the parades that roll through nightly.

Hmmm. Costumes needed to be packed and I was informed that the hotel would probably have a schedule for the street parties. But…this was not what I envisioned.

The Sambadrome…this was what I wanted to do! How could I say I had been to Rio’s Carnivale and not get to truly experience it in the Sambadrome? It did not take long to find a few websites advertising tickets for the parades. And yes…we were arriving Saturday morning and there were still tickets for that night’s festivities in the Sambadrome! Now, I just had to find friends to join me or would I be comfortable going by myself?

Reaching out to my coworkers, I found that a couple were excited to accompany me. We purchased tickets for Saturday night and everything was in place for a fun time.

And then I got the text.

Another of my coworkers, who originally hails from Rio, received a call from a friend. Did she or anyone else want to be a part of the Santa Cruz Samba school in the parade Saturday night?

Even though we had just purchased our tickets to watch the parade, we decided that this was an opportunity that we could not pass up! We could actually be IN the parade! This was truly the opportunity of a lifetime!

Quickly forwarding our costume sizes, we then found that we had to learn a song for our debut in the Sambadrome!

In Portuguese!

The day before the parade!

We embraced the challenge and wrote the song out phonetically…a bit of nonsensical jargon that only we could understand and any Brazilian would laugh at! Practicing all night, on our flight to Rio…it was quite comical!

Upon our arrival in Rio de Janeiro, we were quite exhausted but nevertheless excited. After finding a way to get our costumes, which were located an hour away, my Brazilian friend called us down into the lobby of the hotel to give us the huge bags with what we would be wearing that night.

Next on the list…finding the hotel where our tickets were to be picked up. We had ordered through a company called Bookers International. The website was easy to use and their representatives were extremely friendly and helpful when I reached out with the many questions that I had. Their setup at the Atlantic Hotel Copacabana was in a meeting room adjacent to the lobby and after a short wait outside, we were ushered in and our ticket packet was handed over to us.

Now, we only had a short time to get money (not easy when many of the ATMs were boarded up) and have dinner!

Getting dressed was thrilling! This was really happening and when we arrived in the lobby, all eyes were on us! There were many people who wanted to take pictures with us! Later, I would think back on this time and our costumes. They were interesting, but quite bulky…in fact, I think we looked a bit like green and white power rangers! When I finally saw some of the other costumes in the Sambadrome, I realized how much better they could have been!

Getting to the Sambadrome was not an easy feat. After investigating shuttle options, my friend decided that we would take Uber. Only because she was a native speaker was the reason that I agreed, as I had read that private cars were not allowed on the roadways near the Sambadrome. She was convinced, however, that we could get close enough.

The traffic was heavy and we barely fit inside the car with our unwieldy outfits. True to what I had learned, traffic was detoured a few blocks from the venue. Pulling over to the curb, we gathered our headdresses and made our way down the road, eyeing the lighted stadium in the distance.

The streets were wet from an earlier rainfall and the cheap shoes given to us made it hard to walk comfortably, each step causing distress on our soles. Finally, however, the roar of the crowd became deafening and we made our way into the ring. Walking along the outer reaches, we found the area where the many samba schools and floats were lined up.

Weaving our way around elegantly bedecked participants and huge, colorful floats, we walked for what seemed like miles. Even though we were running late, it was too hard not to lag behind and take these one-of-a-kind photos of the calm before the storm. Realizing that we had gone the wrong way, we finally turned in the opposite direction before finally spotting others dressed like us! The Santa Cruz Samba School!

Our entrance into the Sambadrome had been scheduled for eleven o’clock, however, the early rainstorms that had plagued the city had caused some major delays. We had a couple of drinks. We waited in line for the bathroom. We sat on the curb. We took a walk. We made friends. That eleven o’clock march into the Sambadrome finally turned into one o’clock in the morning. And by this time, the rain had returned.

*Free seats for observers who want to watch the line-ups or for those unable to purchase seats in the Sambadrome*

Excitement was high as we linked arms with those marching beside us. Lining up in rows of twelve, we finally moved forward entering the amazing Sambadrome.

The crowds roared and our song played.

Santa Cruz de Barbalha-Um Conto Popular No Cariri Cearense

Saudade tenho do meu Cariri
Minha terra onde nasci
E deixei meu coração
O verde admirava da varanda
Era doce minha lida
O suor do meu sertão

Êh muié guerreira
Batiza o meu lugar
A bênção a Padim Padi Ciço
Vi capitão Virgulino
Que se chamou Lampião
Maria Bunita da saia rendada
Me ensina menina prendada
A cantar como o Rei do Baião

Oh moça solteira
Oh pau da bandeira iaiá
Oh moça solteira
Pede ao santo padroeiro
Um sinhô pra ser seu par

Onde versa o trovador
Nasce a fé e alegria
No Araripe o soldadinho
Anuncia um novo dia
Nos altares eu pedi ao pai
E na fonte agradeci em paz

Lava a minha alma e cura minha dor
No peito a Santa Cruz do amor

Vou voltar
Santo Antônio de Barbalha
Ilumine essa batalha
Minha gente pede ao céu
Vou voltar
Santo Antônio de Barbalha
Ceará tem paraíso em forma de cordel

Onde plantei o meu valor
Colhi meus ideais
Vai ressoar o meu tambor
A voz que ecoa dos canaviais

Having been told that we were under the scrutiny of the judges, stationed along the length of the venue, we needed to dance, sing and smile for the entire duration. We started out strong and it was quite overwhelming to see the bystanders lining the route. They were all having a great time drinking, dancing and taking our photos!

As thrilling as it was, it was quite exhausting! Singing the same song over and over and continually dancing…in the light rain…with shoes that were falling apart…halfway through, I wondered if anyone would notice if I jumped the barrier and joined the revelers! Continual movement for over an hour and for almost half a mile, for each school to complete their performance is a LONG time!

Finally, reaching the end of the route, we mingled with the other participants in the Praça da Apoteose (Apotheosis Square), each removing as much of our costumes as we could and graciously accepting water from the volunteers assigned to make sure that we were all hydrated.

*Completion of parades at Praça da Apoteose*

Following my friend, we made our way to our assigned seats, grabbing a beer and some snacks along the way. Watching the parade from this viewpoint gave us a whole different perspective and as I watched each of the remaining schools, I learned that there were many aspects that each school was being judged on.

First and foremost, each school had between sixty-five and seventy-five minutes to make their way through the Sambadrome. No more, no less or points would be deducted. Each school had a theme and a song written specifically for that school and their theme. Most of the wealthier schools had fireworks ignited for their introduction and as we watched I began to notice similarities. Each school began their march with a dancing duo followed by percussionists, spinning ladies in their large ballgowns, the marching groups, the floats and the groups of dancers all spectacularly adorned. Be warned, however, though the costumes are elaborate, there is lots of skin being shown off!

As tired as were were, I was glad that we stayed through the night watching one of the greatest shows on earth!

Having had the experience of being in the parade and watching from above, I think next time, we all agreed that it would be nice to purchase tickets to watch from the ground level in the Camarotes (VIP boxes) where some of our friends had spent the evening. Making our way back to the hotel, we realized that we had lots of time to make a plan for the next year. The sun was rising, our beds were calling and we had the rest of the day to enjoy the beach in one of the most breathtaking cities in South America!

FOR EXCITING VIDEOS and more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe. Also check out Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.com.

Note: All photos were taken with an Iphone, due to the security aspect and because I could not carry my Canon in the parade. Therefore, pictures taken from the grandstands are not as clear as if I had taken them with the Canon due to the distance factor.

Rio Carnivale

Foggy Days

Standing atop the highest point in Cuttyhunk, I looked down past the oyster ponds to the beaches of the West End at a stone tower perched alone on an arm of the island.

With a little investigation, I learned that this stone tower was the Cuttyhunk Monument, dedicated to the island’s founder, Bartholomew Gosnold.

In 1602, Gosnold sailed toward the Americas with the intent to set up a new colony and trading post. After brief stops in Maine and Provincetown, he then landed on Elizabeth’s Isle, known today as the island of Cuttyhunk.

Gosnold, a lawyer, traveled in high circles, practicing law with Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Walter Drake and enjoying regular performances by Shakespeare. It has also been speculated that he had ties to the Knights Templar and may have been trying to find their settlement on Narragansett Bay.

After a successfully harvesting a ton of sassafras, known for its healing properties, cedar timbers and furs, the settlement was disbanded and the group set off to return to England. Though Gosnold didn’t realize the colony that he set out to establish, he left his mark on the area. He is credited with naming Cape Cod because of the abundance of cod in its waters and Martha’s Vineyard for his deceased infant daughter and his wife’s grandmother, Martha Golding, as well as the wild grapes growing there. It is believed that he introduced the wheelbarrow to the New World and that Shakespeare’s play, The Tempest, may have been based on the documentation kept by Gosnold and his companions. Gosnold, continued his explorations and was part of the group responsible for the first English colony at Jamestown.

In 1902, construction of a 70 foot stone tower was initiated as a tribute to Bartholomew Gosnold on the spot where it was believed he set up the island’s first settlement. The monument was completed and dedicated on September 1, 1903.

When staying with my friend a couple of years ago, I read a small article about the the Cuttyhunk Monument. Remembering this article, I vowed that I was going to head out to the West End of the island to see this monument up close and personal.

One day, we set out for the long walk to the West End. Having spoken with a couple of other residents, we were warned to check the tide schedule as the water crosses the path between the two salt ponds, that leads to the beach. After we arrived, however, the fog rolled in quickly and we couldn’t see a thing.

A few more days passed and my time in Cuttyhunk was coming to a close. I was determined to make it out to get a better view of the monument. During the early morning, I woke up to a dense fog covering the island. Deciding that our adventure was just not going to happen, I closed my eyes and burrowed down deeper under the covers. Strangely enough, when I awoke later, the sun was shining and we decided to give it a try.

The day was hot and the dirt road a bit rocky and uneven. We continued our quest and as we came upon a hill, we were able to look through the clearing to a clear beach…and the monument! Wow! We were going to get a good view!

Trudging down the hill, we passed through the tall sea grass and tiptoed over the stones that separated the oyster ponds. We could see the monument to our left, but there was something else. The fog was rolling in!

Quickly, we made our way to the beach, walking in the direction of the monument and praying that this bout of fog was going to disperse. I have to say, I never gave up on that idea, but sadly, even though it thinned at times, it never really cleared. I guess the bright side was that I could still see the monument through the fog, yet, it wasn’t conducive to the beautiful photographs I had dreamed of. I must admit, however, this gloom, no matter how rarified, lent a creepy atmosphere, one that I could imagine the first settlers encountered when first stepping foot on this spot. I could almost imagine the native settlers standing on the point, waiting to greet the newcomers.

Sitting there on a large boulder, smelling the salty air, my imagination began to wander. What was it like landing here for the first time? Exciting, yet frightening, I am sure.

Wait, was that a ghost, standing on the point? The ghost of Bartholomew Gosnold?

All of this fog was really getting to me…it was just a fisherman hoping for some of the Atlantic Cod.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Cuttyhunk Monument

Address: West End, Cuttyhunk, Massachusetts
Hours: 24 hours, daily and depending on the tides
Admission: free

The Little Church On the Hill

When you gotta pray, you gotta pray.

Most people of faith pray every day and most seek out the comfort of participating in a church service at least once a week, even when on vacation!

Just two doors down from my friend’s island home, is the Cuttyhunk Church. A small, simple structure, it always captured my attention when I walked by in the direction of the dock, the post office, the beach or where ever I was headed.

Never had I seen the door open and I wasn’t sure if visitors were welcomed outside of worship hours.

One day, after a trek to the west end of the island, my friend and I were returning home. Kathie, knowing my love of churches, glanced over at the now open door and suggested we take a look inside.

Built in 1881, the church is known as the United Methodist Church of Cuttyhunk. The church, however, is an interfaith church with Episcopal, Roman Catholic and inter-faith services led by worship leaders from different religious traditions. Only open during the busiest months of the year, July and August, when visits to the island are at its peak, the church bell calls the parishioners fifteen minutes before each Sunday service and can be heard throughout the island.

The church is also used by a variety of religious and community groups for various events, including weddings, baptisms, memorial services, AA and Al-Anon, the Cuttyhunk Historical Society, the Cruisers Community Chorus and other island events.

The interior was intimate and comforting with a pressed tin ceiling and walls and simple wooden benches spanning the width of the building. There are two beautiful shell mosaics designed by artist Manuel Sarmento, depicting the Madonna and St. Francis of Assisi in the front of the sanctuary. The simple crucifix hanging above the altar is made of brass and driftwood and was crafted by Wally Ketchum. What I loved the most, however, was the brightly colored stained glass panel situated above the doorway which embodies the fishing culture of the island.

As we wandered around the rear of the church, I noticed a small basket of clam shells with bright blue writing inside the curved portion of some of the shells. As I studied the framed printout, next to the basket, I learned that these shells are for recording prayer requests. At the end of the season, church volunteers set these shells afloat, encircled by island flowers with the belief that casting flowers into the nearby waters on departure assures one’s return and the answer to their petition. The next day, it was no surprise when Kathie plucked a bloom from one of her hibiscus bushes for me to toss into the waters from the ferry as I left the island.

Hopefully, this action will allow me to return to Cuttyhunk during the summer season and attend one of these church services!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram @snappingtheglobe.

Cuttyhunk Methodist Church

http://www.cuttyhunkchurch.org/history.html
Address: 1 Broadway Cuttyhunk MA 02713
Services and Events: Thursdays (Summer Season), 1100, an hour of discussion and medition, 1930, Bible Study, 1830 Kids Movie Night. Sunday Services begin on the Sunday before the Fourth of July until Labor Day weekend. 0830, Episcopal Eucharist, 0930, Sunday School, 1030, Roman Catholic Mass, 1945, Hymn Sing, 2000, Evening Worship.
Contact information: For weddings and special gatherings, contact a church volunteer at 781-834-9552 or email puddingstone@live.com
Admission: free

All Washed Up

Everyone loves a good treasure hunt.

Especially on a beach…

The best part is that everyone’s idea of treasure is in the eye of the beholder.

Recently, with COVID19 restricting travel, I found myself with a lot of free time on my hands. Normally, in June, I am home only about a third of the month, with conventions, training and other events that take me away. This year, being unable to commute to work due to the loss of so many flights, I found myself wandering aimlessly around my home, looking for things to do, browsing my travel photos and just generally missing my usual lifestyle.

Sometimes, however, when one door is closed, another opens.

One of my best friends owns a house on the island of Cuttyhunk, just off of the coast of New Bedford, Massachusetts. Every year, she opens her house at the end of May for the summer and every year, the invitation is extended for me to visit.

Because of the ferry schedule, Cuttyhunk isn’t the easiest place to travel to and only once in recent years was I able to work it out. Two summers ago, a few of our friends and I, were able to go out for a quick weekend getaway. Though we enjoyed our visit, it was too early during the season (and still too cool) to see what summers on the island entail.

As I struggled with being home for such a great length of time, Kathie reached out and asked if I would be interested in keeping her company for a while on the island.

Mindful of the cool weather I had experienced beforehand, it was an exercise in balancing my summer wardrobe with pieces that could still keep me warm for those crazy days when the ocean winds decided otherwise.

After finally making my way north and an uneventful ferry ride, I learned that being there in mid June gives you a new perspective. Things certainly were different than on my first visit!

There was lots more activity. More people. More boats in the harbor.

And the best part, for a warm-weather loving person like myself, it was bathing suit and beach weather! Well…on most days!

There are quite a few beaches that surround the island and we made sure to take our daily walks on them all.

My favorite part was how much the beaches changed shape every day due to the tides, currents and waves. It was interesting to find that while some beaches were rocky one day, they were sandy the next and you never would know what might have washed in overnight.

Kathie was always on the lookout for beach glass. Always amazed at how she could spot the tiniest pieces, I instead focused my attention on driftwood and shells, with my ultimate goal of putting it together to form some sort of artpiece.

As we traversed the mile and half long by three quarters wide island, we poked the soft sand and seaweed, strolled along the waters edge and analyzed the tide pools along Channel, Church, West End and Barges Beaches. Crab traps lay half buried in the sand, and crabs and other crustaceans, both live and dead, small and large, could be spotted everywhere we walked. Barnacles and and long seaweed fingers clung to the side of the boulders and lengths of rope, of all circumferences and colors lay knotted around pieces of driftwood.

Rubber gloves, which may have fallen from fishing boats, could be spotted and they were usually displayed with great fanfare and sometimes obscene gestures. The fishermen, who mark their traps and fishing spots with buoys, were probably disappointed to find that many of their markers had washed ashore.

There were some interesting seashells and colorful granite rocks ground smooth from years of being subject to the pounding waves.

Looking out to sea, it was always interesting to see the many boats making their way to the island, some from the mainland and some from neighboring Martha’s Vineyard. As we walked along Barges Beach, I mistakenly took the remains of the fourteen barges that litter the shoreline as shipwrecks. In fact, these barges were buried here in 1949 to stabilize the land damaged by a 1944 Nor’easter. Though they are slowing eroding away themselves, they provide a natural habitat for some of the island’s creatures and a place to capture some unique beach shots.

As we walked near the sand dunes, we watched the sandpipers and seagulls soar around us, and the occasional rabbit hop our way.

Every day was a new day.

You never know what you were going to find!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Cuttyhunk Island

The Fisherman’s Monument

The port city of New Bedford, Massachusetts, has been the home of countless fisherman for thousands of years.

While I love sailing in and out of this port when traveling to Cuttyhunk Island, I haven’t had much of an opportunity to see what makes up the city itself.

Known as the “The Whaling City” due to its importance in the whaling industry during the nineteenth century, there is a wonderful museum which focuses on the history of the trade. Though I would have loved to have visited this institution, the Covid restrictions had closed it down until further notice.

I wasn’t in town for long…only as long as it took to get groceries and board our boat which was to take us to Cuttyhunk. As I stood guard over our belongings at the New Bedord State Pier, my friends brought over load after load destined for our stay on the island. My attention wandered from the multitude of fishing boats lining the harbor to the occasional passerby. As I finally took a turn carrying one of the many bags from the car, I noticed a statue on the edge of the pier. Taking a quick walk over, I noted the plaque set into the concrete.

The statue, which honors the fishermen of the Port of New Bedford, was installed in this spot on June 30, 2016 and designed by sculptor Erik Durant. The installation depicts the scene of a fishing family consisting of a mother standing near her fisherman husband, who is down on one knee. He holds his daughter in his lap, accepting her hugs, and has his hand on the shoulder of his son, who holds a crew cap.

The monument is quite moving and it is evident that it is one that most families of the area can relate to. With a little research, I learned that the passing of the cap to the son signifies the continuation of the fishing tradition and the clinging daughter represents the regret of the separation that the family has when the father is away. The woman stands behind the father and the children, representing those who stay behind while the fisherman are at sea.

So, I didn’t get to take a quick tour of the whaling museum, however, I stumbled upon something more significant.

One that represents the fishermen of both the past and present.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The Fisherman’s Monument

Address: 49 State Pier, New Bedford, Massachusetts, 02740
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: Free

The Veteran

Eighty years ago, the D-Day operation took place.

Thousands of soldiers took part in this important charge and in addition to these participants, the mission employed a millenary of ships, airplanes and tanks.

As with the passage of time, most who lived to recall the events of this day have passed on…

Most of the mechanical craft that saw action have been retired, scrapped or gone to their grave. Incredibly, some have been restored and live on in museums, but there are few that are actively continuing their careers in a different capacity.

The USS LST-510 was designed to be a short-lived assault craft which was designed to allow the landing of both armored and unarmored vehicles on a beach. Appearing to be a basic cargo ship, it was able to deceive those surveilling the area. The LST, also known by its crews as a Large Slow Target, had a flat bottom and was able to sail directly up to or close to shore. It then opened the ramp hidden inside a door on its bow and allowed vehicles to exit and go to combat.

Having contributed to the success of and having survived D-Day, the USL LST-510 was destined to continue its career long into the next century. Now known as the M/V Cape Henlopen, this World War II survivor was sold into commercial hands and was converted into a car ferry. The ferry’s name and owners have changed over the years, but her new mission has remained constant.

Today, the M/V Cape Henlopen crosses the Long Island Sound between Orient Point, New York and New London, Connecticut.

When we had decided to take the ferry while making our way to Massachusetts, we had heard about this World War II survivor from a few locals. Never did we realize, however, that the ferry that we would be traveling on would be this historic seafaring vessel. In fact, as we sat in line, waiting for it to arrive, we were more concerned with the overcast skies and deteriorating weather conditions.

After driving on board, we exited our vehicles and made our way into the wind and drizzle, attempting to climb the stairs to the lounge area as quickly as possible. As I glanced over to the right, a blue sign caught my eye, perhaps the only clue to this ship’s wartime service.

This was the one we had heard of!

Excitedly, we entered the lounge area and took a look around. Sadly, there was nothing more to see which informed travelers of her historic and significant past.

Our ride was uneventful and a short hour and fifteen minutes later, we were arriving in New London.

Ordinarily, upon arriving at one’s destination, passengers are often in a rush to disembark and continue on their journey. As we sat in my friend’s Ford Expedition, we glanced around as we drove slowly from the hold and imagined what the soldiers who manned the vehicles in the hold on that pivotal day must have felt.

Fear and anticipation.

For us, there was only admiration.

This magnificent veteran played such an important part in history and continues to serve the citizens of our nation to this day.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Cross Sound Ferry

https://www.longislandferry.com/
Address: 2 Ferry Street, PO Box 33, New London, CT 06320 and 41270 Main Rd, Orient, NY 11957
Fares: Vary, depending on traveler type and vehicle
Schedule: Vary, check website