Rediscovering Accra

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There is nowhere like Africa.

The smells, the sights, the people!

I had missed being in Accra and was excited to show my friend around on her first sojourn. Once we had visited Black Star Square, a new locale for me, it was time to reacquaint with some “oldies but goodies” and see what else we might discover in the process.

When you walk around the city, you never know what you might encounter…fighting cows, someone’s laundry on a city bench or wall, someone sleeping under a tree, countless vendors hawking their goods. It is always a surprise and usually quite entertaining.

Dodging the hazards of the crumbling sidewalk, we ventured back along 28 September Road towards the Accra Arts Market. Speaking of not knowing what you might find or walk away with, this is the place. I was in search of face masks made of kente cloth and I knew exactly where to look, however, it is quite difficult engaging with the locals who invite you into their booths and remind you that it’s always “free to look”. Although I have countless masks and other oddities from my previous visits, I steeled myself to say no, however, my friend, on her first visit, couldn’t and walked away with a small table!

Purchases aside, we were able to reconnect with my old friend David, a drum maker who works in the market, share a soda and some great gossip!

Since the Kwame Nkrumah monument was a short distance away, I decided that we should stop in for a visit. Although I had been there before, it was nice to see it once again, even if the fountains were all drained and the property a bit unkempt. One of the most interesting things I discovered was in the museum at the back of the property. I had just finished watching the Netflix series, “The Crown” and remembered the episode when Queen Elizabeth danced with President Nkrumah at a ball in Accra in 1961. Right there on the wall was a photo depicting that particular event!


Leaving the property, I suddenly realized a major mistake we made upon our arrival. I really am out of practice… Never tell some of the locals your name unless you want a personalized ornament, shell, bracelet…the possibilities are endless. I understand that they are desperately trying to make a living, but once they had our name (in our case) they made bracelets for each of us with our monikers woven into it and wanted to sell it to us. Sadly, I didn’t have enough money for their asking price (which was quite high) and I felt bad for the amount of time spent making it, so…we came to an agreement of a purchase with a discount.

Continuing on, our next stop was the Holy Trinity Cathedral. This beautiful, stone church was completed in 1894 and was funded by the colonial British government. Fifteen years after its completion, it was deemed a cathedral by the Diocese of Accra.


Having lain my eyes upon many a cathedral in the world, I would say that this one was in no way equal, however, mass was just finishing and the priest warmly welcomed us inside and told us to make ourselves at home. The design was quite interesting with a dark, barrel-vaulted ceiling, a stone-walled interior and red velvet-covered pews, but it was stark in contrast to some of the Italian, Central and South American gilded temples I have set foot in. Nonetheless, it was nice to see the interior and even speak with some of the parishioners who were still gathered outside.

Heading into the Jamestown area, I was hoping that we could tour the Ussher Fort, one of the three forts that Europeans built in the region during the middle of the 17th century. This fort was built by the Dutch and was completed in 1649 and I suspected that we would be able to get some interesting photos in the bright, sunny day. Blaming incorrect internet information, we found the place to be closed, but were still able to sneak a peek at the interior through the barred doorways. Definitely another place for one of my future trips.

After stopping for a cold drink at the colorful Jamestown Cafe, we cut through the area that houses the Makola market. Having seen the market in operation during its peak operations during the week, we found the streets to be relatively deserted…Sundays are really a day of rest for many Ghanaians. A little further, after passing the monument to King Tackie Tawiah, (king of Accra from 1862-1902), we ended up on Independence Avenue with its countless vendors and local market. While Makola was quiet, we found a flurry of activity while hastening our own travels back to our hotel.



Hobbling back to my room, I suddenly realized how much ground we had covered that day. My friend was thrilled to have seen so many interesting sights and met so many interesting people. Me? I was just happy to rediscover one of my favorite African cities!

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Accra Arts Centre

  • Address: Prof. John Evans Atta Mills High Street, Accra Ghana
  • Hours: 0900-1800, daily
  • Admission: free

Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park and Museum

  • Address: Prof. John Evans Atta Mills High Street, Accra Ghana
  • Hours: 0900-1800, daily
  • Admission: 5 cedi (about .83 US)

Holy Trinity Cathedral

  • Address: High Street, Accra Ghana
  • Hours: Unknown
  • Mass Schedule: Unknown
  • Admission: free

Ussher Fort

  • https://www.ghanamuseums.org/ussher-fort-museum.php
  • Address: 33 Prof. Atta Mills High St, Accra, Ghana
  • Hours: Unknown
  • Admission: Pupils from Primary to JHS 3, GH¢ 0.20 (about .04 US), SHS Students, GH¢ 0.50 (about .08 US), Tertiary Students with ID, GH¢ 1.00 (about .16 US), Ghanaian Adults, GH¢ 2.00 (about .33 US), Foreign Children, GH¢ 2.00 (about .33 US), Foreign Students with ID, GH¢ 5.00 (about .83 US), Adult Foreigners, GH¢ 10.00 (about $1.66 US)

Makola Market

  • Address: Kojo Thompson Rd, Accra, GH
  • Hours: 0800-1800, daily
  • Admission: free

Seeking the Star

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved

A year is a long way to be away from the things you love.  

My job, my friends and yes, Africa!

Africa is absolutely one of my favorite places to travel to.  I had not been to Ghana in a year and a half, so when I learned that I had a trip during my first month back to work, I was extremely excited!

Having spent so much time there in the past, I feel as though I know the city like the back of my hand. While looking through a map of the city, however, I realized that there are some things I had never seen except from maybe a cab window.

Rising bright and early in the morning, I had breakfast and then set out with a friend to investigate one of Ghana’s major landmarks…Black Star Square.

The public square, also known as Independence Square, hosts the city’s annual celebrations and other national events, including civic and military parades. 

Completed in 1961, by prime minister and President Kwame Nkrumah, to celebrate Ghana’s independence from the British, the square boasts stands to accommodate 30,000 people, the Independence Arch, the Liberation Day Monument and the Black Star Monument, also known as the Black Star Gate.

We made our way down 28 February Road approaching the square, spotting closed gates.  These gates were low enough to step over, however, and noting other people in the square, we decided to join them. 

Immediately to our left, we noticed one of the highlights, the statue of a soldier, facing the Independence Arch, which symbolizes the Ghanaians who lost their lives fighting for their country’s independence.

We then walked around the parade grounds, passing by and then under the Independence Arch and the stands reserved for the notables where we were stopped by a security guard.  Though we were trying to take a look at the view of the ocean beyond the square, I guess we found out that this part was off limits. The square, however, is massive with lots of other ground to cover and it would be a sight to behold to attend one of the country’s celebratory gatherings, especially the Independence Day parade which is held March 6th every year.

Moving on, we made our way across 28 February Road to the Black Star Gate.  As we approached, I noticed two gentlemen under the gate stand and one begin to approach. I steeled myself for a scam, however, he was very friendly and asked us if we wanted to climb to the top.  The small admittance fee allowed our entry and he would accompany us to answer any questions we might have.  

Climbing the inner staircase to the top, he chatted amicably and gave us a history of the square. 

Standing on the pinnacle, we had an amazing view of the entire square, the nearby Accra Sports Stadium, the coast and parts of the city.  The best part, however, was when our guide, Abraham, positioned us under the huge black star and photographed us with the appearance of holding it in our hands!  

We chatted a bit, took some pictures together and then headed down for views of the arch from below.  

There was a great deal of visitors while we were there and I silently wondered why I had never made it here before with it being so close to my hotel and many other attractions I had visited before!  Now I can mark it off the list, with the intent of possibly returning on March 6…that’s something I want to see!

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Black Star Square

  • Address:  28th February Roundabout, Accra, Ghana
  • Hours: 0600-1800, daily
  • Admission: free. Climb to top of Black Star Gate, 5 Ghanaian Cedi (about .83 US)

El Diario de Guatemala CATORCE

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DIA CATORCE

Wow, two weeks have come and gone very quickly! On my last morning, I was up quite early so after getting dressed, I headed over to the bakery around the corner to get breakfast. As I turned to return to my apartment, I caught a glimpse of Volcan de Agua. With nary a cloud in the sky, it stood out against the blue and was one of the clearest views I had had since I arrived. After breakfast, I took one last walk down to the Plaza Mayor and snapped a few photographs along the way. It was simply stunning!

It was finally time to grab my bags and wait for my ride back to Guatemala City. Handing over the keys to Esperanza, I felt a twinge of sadness. My trip was finally over. Last night, on my ride back to Antigua, one of the guys from my tour, who had shared transportation back with me, asked what my favorite thing was about being here in Guatemala this time. I think most people would talk about the adventures that they had but my response was this, “I simply loved having adequate time to investigate every little nook and cranny of the city, taking leisurely walks, greeting the locals and feeling like an actual part of another culture. Because of the nature of my job, I see other parts of the world in short bursts. This time, time was on my side and it was an amazing gift”.

What I learned: My husband is a saint for helping me to realize one of my dreams.

Photo of the day: Volcan de Agua

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El Diario de Guatemala DOCE

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

DIA DOCE

This morning was an important one and I guess that why I was up at 3:30 am.

It was COVID test day!

It really bothers me that another country will allow me to enter with my vaccine card, yet the country where I received my vaccine requires me to have a COVID test to enter and my vaccine card carries no weight. So, on my trip, I have to spend time and money to get this test in order to return home within 72 hours of departure. With clinics not open on Sundays and only half days on Saturdays, you really have to plan accordingly.

My Airbnb host had told me of a clinic nearby that was charging $50, but thankfully, I asked around and found another about three blocks away that charged $35. They were extremely helpful with my questions during the week and greeted me warmly when they arrived.

Yes, I was the first person in line, thanks to my early awakening!

Watching the early deliveries while waiting for the clinic to open.

Heading back to my apartment after my test, I had breakfast and killed some time before heading back to get my negative result!

It was early and the day was looking to be a beautiful one, so I decided to walk to the Colegio Campania de Jesus (which was closed again) and ended up at the Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales in the Plaza Mayor. It’s a small museum that introduces the colonial life during the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries through paintings, furniture and historical artifacts. There is also an important collection of weapons which gives the museum its title.

Colegio Compania de Jesus
Colegio Compania de Jesus
View of Volcan Agua from Plaza Mayor
Plaza Mayor
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Weapons Exhibit at Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
View from Upper Level of Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Walkway in front of Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales

Across the plaza, I headed to the Museo Los Libros, but found it to be closed. I was very disappointed as I had heard that it has a beautiful interior and an interesting collection of books.

Museo Los Libros

Returning to my apartment (after a few shopping stops), I began the arduous process of packing. How do you fit your numerous purchases into your bags that had already come full? Well, that was a work in progress all day!

After lunch, I headed back out, bound for the southernmost part of town. It was a long walk, but I wanted to see El Calvario church. I had learned of this church and their procession during Semana Santa during my last visit. I don’t think we witnessed their procession, but I remember seeing the church’s location on the map and thinking what a long way they had to travel. Along the street leading to El Calvario, I noticed many small chapels that were numbered with Roman numerals. They were locked, but noticing that they led to the church, I assumed (correctly) that they were Stations of the Cross, with the final one on the church grounds.

Stations of the Cross on the way to El Calvario

El Calvario’s exterior was a bright yellow, very different from others in the city and its grounds were well maintained. Entering the church, I found it to be rather minimalistic with a barrel vault and dual-colored stained-glass windows. I didn’t stay long as I was reprimanded for taking photos. What I did learn later was that the church’s walls were once graced with paintings by 18th century colonial artist Tomás de Merlo, which were taken a few years ago by thieves. These paintings which depicted the Passion of the Christ were valued at approximately $300,000 each and were prized possessions of the church. Sadly, they have not been recovered.

El Calvario Church
El Calvario Church
El Calvario Church

One of the highlights of a visit to the church is the Esquisúchil tree in the garden which was planted in 1657 by Holy Saint Hermano Pedro de San Jose de Betancourt, Central America’s only saint. This tree, with its aromatic flowers is believed to have curative powers.

Statue of Holy Saint Hermano Pedro de San Jose de Betancourt and the Esquisúchil tree
The Gardens of El Calvario Church

Soon on my way, I passed the ruins of the old El Calvario church and then the church of San Jose de Viejo, which is still in operation and has the appearance of many of the ruined churches.

Ruins of Old El Calvario Church
The Church of San Jose de Viejo
The Church of San Jose de Viejo

Finally, I took a less direct route home, enjoyed the different scenery, eventually stopping at a Venezuelan restaurant for a quick dinner of pastelitos and tequenos! Yum! That was perfect for an early night!

Sights Around the Antigua
Sights Around the Antigua
Sights Around the Antigua
Sights Around the Antigua
Ermita de Santa Lucia
Ermita de Santa Lucia

Tikal in the morning!!!

What I learned: Bring an extra suitcase to Guatemala for your purchases.

Photo of the day: No parking

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Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales

  • https://muniantigua.gob.gt/museos-antigua-guatemala/
  • Address: 5th. Calle, Real Palacio de los Capitanes Generales de Guatemala, Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0630-2230, daily
  • Admission: Adults, national, Q5 (about 64 cents USD), Adults, foreign, Q30 (about $3.90 USD)

Museo Los Libros

  • http://mcd.gob.gt/683/
  • Address: 5a Calle Poniente, Antigua Guatemala
  • Hours: Tuesday to Friday, 0900-1600, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-1200 and 1400-1600
  • Admission: Adults, national, Q2 (about 25 cents USD), Adults, foreign, Q10 (about $1.30 USD).

El Calvario Church

El Diario de Guatemala ONCE

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DIA ONCE

This was it!

EL DIA FINAL!

My last day at Academia Espanol de Antiguena…and I was kind of sad. Ever since I had started studying Spanish last year, I had dreamt of coming to Antigua when Covid restrictions were lifted. I had finally done what I had set out to do and fulfilled my goal.

Am I fluent now? Absolutely not.

Does my accent and use of the language make the locals cringe? Probably so.

But as the morning went on, I learned that I do understand a great deal. One of the things I enjoyed most was when Patricia and I had conversations about our lives. Similar in age, length of marriages and sexes of our children (yay boys!), there was much that we had in common outside of the fact that we live in separate countries. When Patricia talked about her life, I understood most of what she said, but it was frustrating that I couldn’t communicate everything I wanted to tell her. I’m just not there yet.

Earlier in the week, I had asked Patricia if she knew of a place that I could donate some clothes. I had brought along some clothing items that I no longer wore at home. While I wore them here, I had no plans to bring them back to Virginia. She had named a few places for me, but I was hoping she would volunteer to give the items to people she knew who might need them. And that’s what she did!

The day before, I had worn a very colorful shirt with a nice pattern. When I walked into our classroom, she complemented me and said how much she liked the design. I was on the fence about leaving that particular shirt, however, when I found out she liked it so much, I decided that it had to go in the bag! When I handed her the bag of clothing and she noticed that shirt on the top, her eyes lit up and I told her that she should keep that shirt for herself! In fact, if Patricia likes that whole bag of clothing for herself, then I hope she keeps it and enjoys it.

Every day during class, I brought an insulated, Yeti-type cup to class, filled with my bebida del dia, Coca Cola Sin Azucar, because you know…I needed my caffeine to help my brain translate. One day, she asked me about the cup and if it kept drinks both cold and hot. She told me the word for that type of cup and mentioned that they don’t sell anything like that here. On my last day, I found out that it was “Teachers Day” in Guatemala when Patricia brought in a little goodie bag given to her by the Director with some hand sanitizer and a small bottle of liqueur. Even though it might be strange by our standards to give someone a cup that you were just drinking out of, I decided that she might like it. I told her that it would need some washing but if she would like to have it, it was my gift to her for Teachers Day. I have never seen someone’s eyes light up the way hers did and she quickly took it to empty the ice and wash it out, thanking me a million times. It really touched me and although I would’ve liked to have kept my cup to have something to drink from for the next couple of days, I realized how little many of the people here have. I can walk into Walmart on Tuesday and buy another one for seven dollars, they cannot.

While we were talking, she also mentioned how little the children here have in regard to schooling. Covid has really put a damper on the children’s education. School is not free and even when they can attend, things like books are not provided. Desks are simply wood planks placed on concrete cinder blocks. Parents have to work very hard in order to buy things that we take for granted like pencils, pens and notebooks. Now that children are having to do school online, many are not receiving instruction at all, since most families don’t have computers, phones or tablets. She told me of one teacher who, in her opinion is a true hero. She watched as children brought an egg or a vegetable as payment to him and sat in his doorway as he instructed them. When asked why he did it, he said that it was his duty.

I really wish that my children could hear these stories and realize how much they take for granted. They all have cellular phones, they have notebooks from school that only a portion of was used, they had textbooks provided for them and they have all had the privilege to attend college.

As the bells were ringing in the noon hour at Iglesia de Merced, our classes officially came to an end. I gave Patricia my email address and asked her to stay in contact with me. I told her that I hoped to return next spring and asked that if I brought supplies for the school children in her town, could she distribute them for me? I truly hope to do this and provide some assistance to those who really need it. We know that in the United States, Covid has affected our lives greatly, but it really has taken a toll on so many others worldwide.

Bidding Julio, the Director, a farewell as I walked out the door, I made my way home for the last time…across the street.

After lunch, I decided to take a walk and start some of the shopping that I needed to do. It was a lovely day and I enjoyed browsing in some of the stores I had never ventured into near the ruins of Colegio Compania de Jesus. After a few blocks, I found myself in the Plaza Mayor. Walking under the portico, I stopped to inspect some embroidered blouses in a store. I suddenly realized that a hallway led to an artisan’s market that I did not know existed. Searching for different nativity sets (which I collect), is always first and foremost when I am abroad. Although I had a beautiful one that I purchased here before, I was searching for something a little different made of a bleached wood. I had just about given up hope of finding what I wanted when I stopped in a store and asked about nativity sets. The young woman reached behind some other statues and started to pull out a nine-piece set that was exactly what I was looking for!

Ruins of Colegio Compania de Jesus

The owner, Roberto, and I struck up a conversation and although the price was a little high, we made a deal. There were some beautiful items in his shop and if anyone is ever in the central plaza, you should take a look at Mayanwood #20 in El Mercadito Artisans market! He’s a pleasure to talk to!

Roberto, Stall #20
El Mercadito Artisanias
The much sought-after nativity set, as seen in La Aurora Airport for almost twice the price!

Finally, I made my way back to my other favorite store, Nim Po’t, with my shopping list in hand. It took two baskets to get everything I needed and I left wondering how the heck I was going to get it all in my suitcase!

It was time to celebrate my successes in Spanish school tonight! I headed toward the Cathedral and found a nice restaurant with a quaint courtyard, Las Atorchas (The Torches). Honestly, I don’t know if you can get a bad meal here. Everywhere I go, I enjoy the most amazing food, including tonight, a chicken curry with Guatemalan flare. It was absolutely delightful!

Cerveza in hand, I toasted myself for making it this far and wished myself luck with my future studies.

My Spanish-speaking amigos and amigas had better be ready to help me practice!

What I learned: Always go with your gut. If I hadn’t changed schools I wouldn’t have had the lovely experiences that I had this week.

Photo of the day: The Fountain of the Plaza Mayor

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Antiguena Spanish Academy

  • https://www.spanishacademyantiguena.com/
  • Address: 1a Calle Poniente #10 Antigua Guatemala, Sacatepequez 03001
  • Rates: $ 110 one-week classes, 4 hours, 5 days from 0800-1200. $ 135 one-week classes, 5 hours, 5 days from 0800-1300. $ 165 one-week classes, 6 hours, 5 days from 0800-1200 and 1400-1600 or 1600-1800. $ 175 one week for both (not each), if you and a friend shared a teacher 4 hours, 5 days. $90 one-week classes, 4 hours, 5 days, 1300-1700.

El Mercadito Artisans Market

  • Address: 5a Avenida Norte, Antigua, Guatemala. Adjacent to Plaza Mayor, next to Wendy’s.

Nim Po’t

  • https://www.nimpotexport.com/
  • Address: 5ta. Avenida Norte 29, Antigua Guatemala
  • Hours: Monday through Thursday, 1000-1900, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-2000.

Las Atorchas

El Diario de Guatemala DIEZ

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved


DIA Diez

Oops, I did it again.

I blew another fuse! But this time, both appliances were not plugged in at the same time. Even though I have been drying my hair here for a week, something had obviously changed with the electrical system. Determined to not contact my host, I tried to find the caretaker and when I was unsuccessful, I left a note on my door (in Spanish) hoping she would spot it before I returned for lunch.

Honestly, I was getting a bit tired and hadn’t slept much the night before. I wasn’t in the mood for school today and was counting down the minutes until we were finished, as I was ready to do something a little different today. But the bright spot was that it was a beautiful day and when I mentioned to my teacher that you could see the volcano so well, she suggested we go to the roof and take a look. It was a spectacular view!

Upon my return to my apartment after school, I found the note still on my door and the lights still dark. So that I didn’t return to a dark apartment tonight, I had to swallow my pride and contact my host once again, to confess my sin, praying that he would not yell at me, or rather, send me a very strongly worded response about my personal appliances!

The plan for the afternoon was to make my way to the main building that houses my school, for one of the cultural events they host each week. Only about a twelve-minute walk, I left a little early to make sure that I remembered which door it was, as none of them are marked. Thankfully, a couple of other girls were arriving when I did, so I found the entrance and ventured inside. Taking a seat, I discovered that it was my teacher that was doing the presentation on traditional wedding attire.

During class, she had asked me about attending and asked if I would be her model, however, I thought I had misunderstood her, although of course my answer was “Si” (my favorite Spanish word!). When the presentation started and she asked for a model, she went straight to me! So, she really was serious!

The clothing that she was describing is the traditional dress of the local pueblos. These amazing pieces are constructed by hand and take about six months, with young girls helping from the age of seven. First, I donned the “guipil”, the blouse, which was embroidered with colorful birds. The girls in the class were remarking that it looked really cute with my jeans and sandals! Next, she placed “el sute es la pieza de tela”, fabric wrapped to make a skirt, around my hips. Finally, she cinched the “cinturon” or “la faja cuesta qinientos” around my waist. As she pulled tightly, I thought maybe I should wear this all day long to remind me not to eat so many tortillas! Lastly, an embroidered mantle was placed around my shoulders. She described how a young woman would wear this on her head for her wedding and then later tie it into a basket or into a sling to carry her baby.

All of these pieces were remarkable and obviously a lot of time and patience went into their creation. When asked how much these would cost if having to purchase them, the total was staggering…about $13,500 Quetzals…approximately $1800 USD…a fortune in Guatemala!

After another couple donned outfits for their pseudo wedding and the festivities were described to us, we were offered pepian, a traditional Guatemalan dish of Mayan origin.

This was a fun diversion from my usual routine, and I enjoyed meeting some of the other students. What I discovered that I was missing while having my class just across the street from my apartment, was the camaraderie many of them shared during their breaks.

I walked home with two other students and decided to get my homework done before dinner and then I took a walk.

Finding myself at Tanque La Union, the historic place that people gathered to wash their clothes during colonial times, I grabbed a seat and of course a few photos. The park that fronts this spot is a popular gathering place for locals and it’s great for people watching.

Tanque La Union

I found myself wanting to go out this evening and ended up at the pizzeria that I had gotten takeout (para llevar-important word for those who want food-to-go) from last week. Vice Pizzeria has an amazing rooftop bar, fun music and spectacular views. This time, however, I didn’t care for my choice of pizza…chorizo…the bar next door’s was way better and way cheaper…like half the price! Still, I had a great view of the goings-on on the street and the full moon and that’s always interesting!

My last day of school was tomorrow, and I wasn’t sure what to feel. Excitement and sadness all rolled into one…I’ll have to deal with that…manana.

What I learned today: Because of the design of the traditional clothing, there is lots of room for expansion…hint, hint…lots of tortillas and pepian and your skirt will still fit!

Photo of the day: Tanque La Union

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Vice Pizzeria

El Diario de Guatemala NUEVE

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved


DIA NUEVE

I blew a fuse today.

Not a personal one.

One in my apartment. I guess plugging in your hairdryer and your curling iron into the same set of plugs is a “no go” here.

I was already running late, and this happened. My hair was still wet, so I grabbed my hat and headed downstairs where I discovered, as I looked to see what time it was, that the microwave still had power, as did the refrigerator. I plugged in my little fan and discovered there was power in the downstairs outlets so I ran and grabbed my hairdryer and dried my hair in the kitchen (in the dark), looking at my reflection in the microwave, all the while thinking that I couldn’t cook my eggs.

Exactly…I wasn’t thinking. It wasn’t until I got to the bakery around the corner to get croissants that I realized that I could’ve cooked my microwave eggs! Maybe it was my subconscious wanting me to get croissants this morning!

I felt more confident in my class today and I got glowing reviews for my knowledge of the uses of “Hay” and “Hay que”…thanks to Fannie’s help! Class passed fairly quickly, and I was soon back in my apartment having a quick bite to eat and chatting with my mom on Facetime.

My middle son had an expressed an interest in me purchasing more soccer jerseys for him from the local market, so I decided that in addition to doing my homework early today (with no assistance), I would run over to look for something that he would like. I quickly found the place where he and I had bought some when we were here a couple of years ago. After a little haggling, I got the shirts I wanted for the price I wanted. It really is helpful when you know more of the language!

Central Market Entrance

As I walked along the streets, I realized how comfortable I was and how much more I knew about the city than from my previous visit. As anxious as I to get home, I was also very sad to think of leaving the following week. If I had to pick another city to live in, this would be the one. So, if my husband ever divorces me, you guys will know where to find me!!!

Tonight, I decided that I was going to dress up a little and try the much-recommended crepe restaurant, Luna de Miel. Just around the corner from my apartment, it was a short walk, and I was ushered upstairs to the rooftop terrace. I had discussed this restaurant with my teacher earlier today and she was a little afraid that I might be disappointed, being that I have eaten crepes in Paris often. Every table was full and the ambience was perfect. Not quite sure what to choose, I asked the waiter for his preference. He suggested Luna Parisina,
which was filled with chicken, caramelized onions, mushrooms and cream. Was it as good as anything I’ve ever had in Paris? Dare I even say better? It was so delicious and I was quite full, but I decided that I simply had to have dessert. Taking a cue from my Parisian favorites, I ordered a sweet crepe with butter, cinnamon and sugar. Muy delicioso! The overall experience was one of the best I’ve had in Antigua and I think I waddled home…just a tiny bit!

What I learned today: Two things. You probably guessed it…don’t plug my hairdryer into the bathroom outlet anymore and the microwave makes a pretty decent mirror in a pinch!

Photo of the day: Chinchines at the market

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Luna de Miel

El Diario de Guatemala OCHO

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.


DIA OCHO

My second day at school was going to be the deciding factor of whether or not I was going to make it in the Spanish language educational system of Antigua!
Day two at my other school was when the frustration began to set in, so I was nervous for my class.

Although we began going over some of the irregular verbs, I felt like Patricia never got frustrated with my lack of understanding. It didn’t help that while we were going over my lessons that I received a text from my tour company informing me that my flights for my tour to Tikal could not be booked for Saturday. I was so distracted, trying to think of how to fix this problem, that I wasn’t really paying attention to my Spanish lesson and I think my teacher could see this. It was with great relief when class was finished. But don’t think this got me off the hook…Patricia gave me a great deal of homework!

After class, I ran over to the tour agency to speak with Claudia about the alternatives for my Tikal trip. I had already extended my stay at my Airbnb to accommodate this trip so there wasn’t an option to just not go. In the end, we settled on my tour to Tikal for Sunday. It is going to be a very long day with pick up around 3 AM and return to Antigua around 9 PM. Since I am leaving the next morning to go back to Guatemala City to catch my flight to the United States, I am sure that I’m going to be extremely exhausted, however, I feel as though I must absolutely visit this Mayan wonder!

That taken care of, I made note of the good weather and decided to finally go to my favorite ruins, Convento Santa Clara. I truly think this is one of the most beautiful in the city! Since it was a weekday, I found the place to be mostly empty and the best part was that there were no young lovers hiding in dark corners!

Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara

After my visit to the convent, I decided to go to the Artisans market. It was a bit tough finding what I really wanted and negotiating in Spanish, but I found a few gifts that worked. Once done, I was making my way back to my apartment, passing under Santa Catalina Arch, when I noticed a store on my right just past one of my favorite restaurants, Frida’s. This store, Nim Po’t, was like the Artisan’s Superstore. Almost everything that I had just seen at the Artisan’s Market was in this store…plus some! (And they take credit cards!). I made mental notes on everything I wanted to purchase and when I arrived at my apartment, I wrote out my shopping list so that when I returned, I wouldn’t forget anything.

So, as I was making this shopping list, I was realizing that I was doing everything possible, to avoid my homework…thinking about going to eat out…thinking about editing pictures…thinking about calling home…you name it…I thought about doing it. Finally, I pulled out my work and took a look. It was much tougher than I thought. So, what does one do when you don’t understand your Spanish homework? You send a copy of it to your Spanish-speaking friends and have them do it for you! Well not really do it for you…but tell you some of the answers so you could see if you got them correct.

You know, everyone needs a helping hand or two every now and then!

What I learned today: the Spanish verb, “mandar”, which means to send and “a tiempo” which means on time. Next time I send my passport information to the tour agency in a timelier manner.

Photo of the day: Convento Santa Clara

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Convento Santa Clara

  • Address: Sur at 6 Calle Oriente 2, Antigua, GT 03001
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Q40

Nim Po’t

  • https://www.nimpotexport.com/
  • Address: 5ta. Avenida Norte 29, Antigua Guatemala
  • Hours: Monday through Thursday, 1000-1900, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-2000.

El Diario de Guatemala SIETE

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.


DIA SIETE

Today is D-Day.

This is the day that I see if I made the right decision in switching Spanish schools.
After I made my breakfast, I took the looooonnnngggg walk…across the street… Literally, my kitchen window looks directly at my new school’s door. Yes, as I ate my microwave omelet, I was thinking that this was a sign. An omen. Maybe I was supposed to be at Antiguena Spanish School from the very beginning.

Nervously, I rang the bell and I was greeted by four or five people (teachers, I suppose) and then ushered into the director’s office. After I signed some papers and paid my weekly tuition, I was introduced to my new teacher Patricia.

Patricia was a bit older than my former teacher and as we got started on our lessons, I felt that she was much more experienced. I was confident in my interactions with her and she was very complementary with all of my responses. As the day closed, I felt very good about my lessons, yet was it too early to feel like I had made the right decision? I had also felt very good about my other teacher on the first day…
After I crossed the street and made my lunch, I made a plan for the rest of the afternoon. First, I headed over to a tour agency to inquire about a day trip to Tikal, then I stopped by the local clinic to see what day I could complete my COVID test for my return trip home.

Boring stuff completed, it was on to the fun stuff! Heading north, I walked a few blocks to the ruins of San Sebastián church. Only because we had passed near here on our way to Lake Atitlan was I aware that this church existed. It appeared to be much like the many other churches in the city and I took a couple of quick photographs.

Ruins of Iglesia de San Sebastian
Ruins of Iglesia de San Sebastian

Next, I took a quick tour of the Convent of Iglesia de Merced. Although, this church and ruins was a half a block away from my apartment and I had spent my breaks from school standing in front of the church, I had yet to make it inside this time while I was in Antigua.

Iglesia de La Merced
Iglesia de La Merced

It was wonderful to be back, but yes, I wish that the fountain which is the centerpiece of the property (and the largest in Central America), had been operating.
I had also looked forward to seeing the spectacular views of the volcanoes in the distance, but as I made my way to the top level of the cloister, a light rain was starting to move in. The horizon was cloudy so the only view I had was of the surrounding homes and businesses. As I stood near the railing, spying on the Mercedarian’s beautiful courtyard, I spotted something familiar. Next door was the courtyard of my old school. Thank goodness no one was looking up because I’m not supposed to be in town! Don’t ask…

Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Mercedarian Courtyard
Do Pedro de Alvarado Spanish School Courtyard
Iglesia de La Merced
Iglesia de La Merced
Iglesia de La Merced
Iglesia de La Merced

Despite the rain, I headed over to one of my favorite landmarks, the Capuchin Convent. I was banking on the rain stopping and I won that bet. Not long after I arrived, the skies cleared and I was able to enjoy the cloister and grounds of this amazing property. It’s no wonder that people choose this location for wedding and quinceanera photos as well the actual weddings themselves.

Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas Crypt
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas

Something I had been noticing at many of the ruins really bothered me…people carving their names into the ancient walls….Jacky y Berna, D y G…a lot of these names were surrounded by hearts suggesting that young lovers had visited together and wanted to record their dying affection. Well, I discovered something else today. Locals can visit the ruins for a modest sum…about 25 cents compared to my entrance fee, as a foreigner, of about $5.00. As most families have multiple generations living under the same roof, this doesn’t offer young people much privacy. Guess where the young lovers go to spend time together? Apparently, the Capuchin Convent is a popular place with its many dark former nun’s cells. Yes, I walked in on not just one couple, but a few!

On my way home tonight, I was thinking about all of the wonderful restaurants in the city. There was a bar and grill that I walked by every day as it was only three doors down from my apartment. Appearances are always very deceiving in Antigua with storefronts hiding what’s really deep inside…beautiful courtyards and interiors. As I walked by this particular restaurant, I was realizing that I had to figure out what I was going to do for dinner. On a whim and drawn in by the amazing Latin music, I decided to have a seat and dinner. I was craving a burger and when the waitress took my order she asked if I wanted two!

Am I so fat that I look like I can eat so much?

It was actually “two-for-one” night and she offered to package one of the burgers up for me to take home. I wasn’t really expecting much but when my plate arrived, I was greeted by the largest burger I have ever seen! And not only was it big, but it was muy delicioso!!! The best part was that for two gigantic burgers, fries and three beers, my bill came to a whopping $15.00.

I’d say that was a good way to end the day! New day, new teacher, new favorite restaurant!

What I learned: Be mindful when entering darkened rooms at the landmarks of Antigua!

Photo of the day: Convento Capuchinas

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Antiguena Spanish Academy

  • https://www.spanishacademyantiguena.com/
  • Address: 1a Calle Poniente #10 Antigua Guatemala, Sacatepequez 03001
  • Rates: $ 110 one-week classes, 4 hours, 5 days from 0800-1200. $ 135 one-week classes, 5 hours, 5 days from 0800-1300. $ 165 one-week classes, 6 hours, 5 days from 0800-1200 and 1400-1600 or 1600-1800. $ 175 one-week for both (not each), if you and a friend shared a teacher 4 hours, 5 days. $90 one-week classes, 4 hours, 5 days, 1300-1700.

Antigua Parroquia San Sebastian (ruins)

  • Address: H777+P9 Antigua, Guatelmala on Plazuela San Sebastian

Church and Convent of Our Lady of La Merced

  • Address: 1a Calle Poniente & 6a Avenida Norte, Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: Church, 0830-1745, Convent, 0830-1200 and 1400-1745
  • Admission: Adults, Q40 (about $5.00 USD)

Convento Capuchinas

  • Address: Av Norte at 2 Calle Oriente 2, Centro, Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Adults, national Q5 (about 60 cents USD), Adults, foreign, Q40 (about $5.00)

Puerta Once Antigua (Door Eleven)

El Diario de Guatemala SEIS

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.


DIA SEIS

Sunday mornings are for sleeping in.

One would think, right?

Then why were my eyes wide open at 5:30 a.m.?

So…I edited pictures, checked Facebook, studied Spanish (of course), cooked a big breakfast (that I ate in bed), watched television and listened to the neighbor’s (very loud) conversations…

Finally, I just got up and dressed for the day. The sun was shining and the sky a brilliant blue…so perfect, in fact, that it was the first day I was able to wear shorts.
As I walked out of my apartment, I ran into a young man that I had met while touring my new school’s facilities. He was from Brighton, England and he was very impressed that I actually knew where his hometown was located. I was disappointed to find that he had decided to go with another school, but as I had learned, everyone has to find the right fit! Jack and I parted ways and I headed to the restaurant that I had had lunch on my first day, El Troccoli…their caprese panini was calling my name!

From my vantage point at the table near the window, I marveled at how alive the streets were. People were everywhere! It was obvious, even more so, when I made it down to the Plaza Mayor and from the traffic, that visitors descend on the city during the weekends in droves!

There was a church that I did not have the opportunity to visit two years ago. The Capilla Nuestra Senora de Belen. It’s in the southwestern part of the city and gave me the opportunity for some exercise.

Capilla Nuestra Senora de Belen
Capilla Nuestra Senora de Belen


The church sits in a small park and although I found it to be closed, I was still impressed with its architectural elements on the church’s and chapel’s facades.
A couple of blocks away, I stumbled upon Iglesia Escuela de Cristo. Standing in the park across the street, I watched the patrons exit after mass. Noting that I was wearing shorts, I didn’t feel comfortable entering boldly. I hung near the doors and tried to slide in unnoticed, but one of the ushers took his place a few feet away, saying “Adios” to everyone. Finally, I gathered the courage to ask him to if it were okay to take one photo…thank goodness he said yes! I later learned that there is a beautiful convent is on the premises (not open to the public) and this is the church where the wake was held for the Hermano Pedro, Central America’s only saint. For those familiar with Antigua’s architecture, it should look familiar as it was designed by architect Diego de Porres, who designed the Fountain of the Sirens in the Plaza Mayor and other buildings throughout the city.

Iglesia Escuela de Cristo
Iglesia Escuela de Cristo

My next stop was the Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande. We had visited this beautiful church during our last trip and we loved that there are many food and craft vendors within the church grounds. Although the church was closed, I was able to visit the tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro and then made an interesting discovery. What we had missed during our first visit because of the massive crowds on the premises for Semana Santa, was the Museo de Santo Hermano Pedro and ruins. The museum was extremely interesting as were the grounds and ruins. I know that most people might think that the ruins within the city appear to be similar, but I love investigating the uniqueness of each.

Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Museum of Santo Hermano Pedro at Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro

Continuing my explorations of the city, I headed in the direction of the Museum of Semana Santa. Wouldn’t you know it’s open one day a month and that day had just passed?

Museo Semana Santa

I decided then to make my way toward Casa Santo Domingo passing the ruins of Iglesia de la Concepcion. Near the city’s entrance, I came upon a granizadas cart. Most people would be afraid to eat or drink things from the street in another country, but it sounded so good at the moment as I was sweating profusely, I decided to get one of the icy treats. Almost like a snow cone, the granizada was topped with pineapple and la lechera, sweetened condensed milk. It was extremely refreshing and after sitting on a bench in the shade, I was ready to go to my next stop.

The Ruins of Iglesia de la Concepcion

Casa Santa Domingo is a hotel in Antigua, but it also contains a couple of museums and ancient ruins. It was a good thing I was there during that time of day and in the museums because the skies opened up and gave the city a good washing!

Casa Santo Domingo Hotel
Casa Santo Domingo Hotel
Casa Santo Domingo Hotel
Museum of Santo Domingo
The Ruins of Santo Domingo
The Ruins of Santo Domingo
The Church of Santo Domingo
The Crypt of Santo Domingo
The Crypt of Santo Domingo
Museum of Santo Domingo
Museum of Santo Domingo
Museum of Santo Domingo
Casa Santo Domingo Hotel

Finally, with aching feet, I was hobbling back to my apartment when I came upon the Plaza Mayor, once again. The park was still bustling and I decided that I might have the strength in me for one more landmark. The 16th century Antigua Guatemala Cathedral. These ruins and church hold a special place in my heart as it was the first thing that my son and I encountered when we arrived two years ago. It was the end of the day and there weren’t many people inside of the cathedral ruins, so I was able to get some beautiful photographs and then say a prayer inside the church.

Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral


I then decided that I had seen so much more that I had planned for the day and it was definitely time to take an Aleve, have dinner and put my feet up.

I was here for school, first and foremost, but how can you not want to see everything that this beautiful colonial city is known for?

What I learned: Wear good shoes when traversing the city!

Photo of the day: Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins

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Casa Troccoli

Iglesia de Belen

Iglesia Escuela de Cristo

Santuario San Francisco el Grande and Museo del Hermano Pedro

Casa Santo Domingo

  • https://www.casasantodomingo.com.gt/
  • Address: 3a Calle Oriente 28, Centro Histórico, Antigua, Guatemala 03001
  • Hours: Museum hours, Monday to Saturday, 0900-1800, Sunday, 1100-1800
  • Admission: Adults, foreign, Q40 (about $5.00 USD)

Catedral San Jose

Catedral de San Jose