Tag: travel

Do the Duomo!

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Many years ago, I visited the Duomo on one of my first trips to Milan.  Of course I did…isn’t that what all first-time visitors to Milan do?

Over the years since, I’ve walked by the massive cathedral and sat in the square admiring its magnificence.  The intricate carvings and towering spires dominate the skyline and mesmerize.  It is almost unfathomable to imagine the skill and patience required to create this masterpiece, yet, as you stand near the structure and gaze upward, there are so many small details that comprise the fabrication…so many, in fact, that you can always see it in a new light every time you visit.

So many lives were dedicated and lost to this incredible building, most never seeing the completion as it took an astounding 582 years to build.  Standing on the site of not one, but two other churches, St. Maria Maggiore and Basilica of St. Tecla, the Duomo certainly resides on the holiest ground and is one of the oldest Christian buildings in Europe.  Here is where St. Ambrose baptized St. Augustine and the Battistero Paleocristiano can still be visited under the Cathedral.

Deciding that it was time to visit again, I set off on the metro destined for the fifth largest Christian church in the world and Milan’s most famous landmark.

Arriving in the front of the building, an extensive queue snaked from the front to side where tickets were required to enter the queue.  After a quick walk to the ticket office at the Sala Delle Colonne, we soon had tickets in hand and were back to the line.  Moving rather quickly, our bags were inspected at the door and we were then admitted into the cathedral.

The Duomo is a massive space with much so much to investigate, I strongly suggest giving yourself ample time for your visit.  Starting on the right side of the cathedral, we made our way inside the darkened space, stopping to pay our respects to the sarcophagi and burial places of former Cardinals and Archbishops of Milan.

Rounding the back of the cathedral in the retro-choir, a 1:1 scale copy of the statue of Madonnina (located at the highest point atop the Duomo) is located. Standing before the vibrant and beauteous stained glass windows, the statue is said to offer protection to whomever finds joy while gazing at her.  “Those who come to Milan remain astonished at her light;  those who leave, carry her with them forever”.

The organ, built in 1938 and one of the largest is the world, is a sight to behold as well as the ghastly statue of Bartholomew Flayed, designed by Marco D’Agrate in 1562, with his flayed skin thrown around his shoulder in a stole-like fashion.

As you scrutinize the extraordinary altar, make sure you look for the red light in the dome above the apse which illuminates the spot where one of the nails from the Crucifixion of Christ resides.  Every year, the Holy Nail is retrieved from this location and placed on exhibition for the public during the celebration of the Rite of the Nivola.

Beneath the choir, the crypt of Charles Borromeo, the former archbishop (1564-1584) and cardinal,  is accessible via a short stairway.  No pictures are allowed. The Cathedral Treasury (Tesoro del Duomo) is also located in this area and a separate entrance fee of €1 is required for entrance.

Once we had seen the entirety of the interior, we made our way down into the Archaeological Area beneath the front of the church, which was included in our ticket.  The excavated ruins include both the Cathedral of St. Thecla and the 4th century Battistero Paleocristiano, where the octagonal baptismal font can be observed in the center.  Pieces of fresco, mosaics and other artifacts can be seen as well as a few well-preserved tombs.

Since the day was nearing its close, we made our way out of the building and to the cathedral’s right side, to the elevators which would take us to the top of the Duomo.  Excited for this part of our visit, I could not wait to see an area of the cathedral that I had not seen prior.

After what seemed like an interminable wait, we finally entered the lift and made our way to the top.  Following the crowds along the roof line, we were able to set our sights on the thousands of statues and flying buttresses that make up the cathedral’s summit. More than 3,400 statues, 135 gargoyles and 700 figures can been seen crowning the spires and breathtaking views of Milan and the snow-capped Alps can be admired on clear days.  Walking along the rooftop terrace, you can also gaze at the top of the cathedral’s highest spire, and see the original Madonnina, keeping watch over the city.  Truly the perfect way to end our day!

Although we did not make it to the Museo del Duomo, also included in our ticket, we were happy to have explored most of what the Duomo offers…besides…it leaves something for another day!

Truly a marvel, the Duomo should not be missed on a stop in Milan.  Visited and written about by so many writers (Oscar Wilde and Henry James), it has captivated attention for centuries, most notably Mark Twain’s, who described it best.  “What a wonder it is! So grand, so solemn, so vast! And yet so delicate, so airy, so graceful! A very world of solid weight, and yet it seems …a delusion of frostwork that might vanish with a breath!”

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Duomo

  • http://www.duomomilano.it
  • Address:  Piazza del Duomo, 20122 Milano, Italy
  • Hours:  Duomo, 0800-1900, daily
  • Hours:  Crypt of St. Charles, Monday – Friday, 1100-1730, Saturday, 1100-1700, Sunday, 1330-1530
  • Hours:  Museo del Duomo, 1000-1800, Tuesday- Sunday
  • Hours:  Terraces, 0900-1900, daily
  • Hours:  Archaeological Area, 0900-1900, daily
  • Admission:  Duomo Pass A, Includes Cathedral Terraces by Lift, Duomo Museum, Archaeological Area, San Gottardo Church, €16.00-€8.00, Duomo Pass B, Includes
    Cathedral Terraces on Foot, Duomo Museum, Archaeological Area, San Gottardo Church, €12.00-€6.00
  • Ticket Offices:  SALA DELLE COLONNE, Piazza del Duomo, 14/a, 0800-1830, daily and Palazzo Reale – Piazza del Duomo, 12 at the Grande Museo del Duomo, 0845-1800, closed Monday.  Self service ticket machines are available at both locations.
  • Getting There:  From Central Station, take the Yellow Metro (M3) and get off at Duomo stop.  From Cadorna Station, take the Red Metro (M1) and get off at Duomo stop.  From Garibaldi Station, take the Green Metro (M2), change at Cardorna to the Red (M1) and get off at Duomo stop.  The Duomo can also be accessed by trams 15 (Piazza Fontana stop), 2 and 14 (Via Torino stop) and 16, 24 and 27 (Via Mazzini stop).

The Art Lover’s Church

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Rainy days aren’t usually fun days for tourists…especially when you are trying to go out and do some sightseeing!  So, when I woke up from my nap in Milan and discovered that it was sprinkling a bit, what was I to do?

Grab an umbrella and raincoat and hit the streets, of course!

Since the weather forecast was not calling for the deluge to end any time that day, I reached into my bag of knowledge of  local destinations and pulled out San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore.

Having researched this monastery a few times, I had also heard that it was not to be missed…and it was indoors!  Perfect!

Reaching the metro station of Cadorna and consulting my map a few times, I was soon standing in front of the church’s unassuming gray stone facade on Corso Magenta.

Admittedly, it didn’t look like much.

Stepping through the doors, however, I must confess…my breath caught in my chest.  An art lover’s dream, this church truly is magnificent.  Being a person who has traveled the world and seen many religious institutions, I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything quite as beautiful with masterpieces covering every inch of the walls, ceilings, side chapels and altar area.  It was absolutely difficult to discern which way to cast your gaze.

The church, standing on the site of a former place of worship, was constructed in the beginning of the 1500’s and is adjoined to the convent of the Benedictine nuns, the oldest female monastery in Milan.  The rectangular nave is divided by a partition into two sections.  The front section, which you see when you enter, is intended for the congregation’s worship and filled with artwork by major sixteenth century Lombard artists such as Bernardino Luini, who worked with Leonardo da Vinci, and his sons, Paolo Lomazzo, Ottavio Semino, Callisto Piazza and Simone Peterzano.  The carved wooden altar is graced by the renowned Adorazione dei Magi (Adoration of the Magi) by Antonio Campi above it, dating back to 1578, one of the most outstanding pieces of artwork in the building.

Checking with the attendant that it was okay to photograph the area, she then made sure that I saw a sign pointing to a doorway near the altar.  The Hall of Nuns.

Already in awe of what I was seeing, I was not sure I wanted to continue on to another area of the structure.  Entering the doorway into a great hall, again, I was dumbfounded.

The Hall of Nuns was unlike anything I had ever seen.  The long nave, flanked on each side by the wooden nun’s choir loft was presided over by a massive and obviously quite valuable pipe organ, designed by Gian Giacomo Antegnati in 1554, in the monk’s choir.  Beautifully sculpted, the gold detail of the facade is only outdone by the two shutters on each side painted in tempera by Franscesco Medici.

Walking through the gallery, I was overloaded by the expanse of compositions that filled every inch of the walls, niches and ceilings.  Truly breathtaking!  Looking upward at the starry sky, with God, the Evangelists and angels, I made my way throughout the space, through the hall and behind the nun’s choir, finding my way back to the partition separating the Hall of the Nuns from the main congregation.  Here, images by Bernandino Luini, of St. Catherine, St. Agatha, the Marriage at Cana and the Carrying of the Cross of Christ are presented.

Reluctantly leaving the space, I found my way into the location that formerly housed the Benedictine convent.  Now the domicile of the Milan Archaeological Museum, many Roman remains, statues and parts of the Roman Circus can be found here.  Deciding to save this for another day, I made my way through the courtyard, quickly checking out the relics that lined the area and back into the rainy day.

Glancing back at the church, I couldn’t help but stop and feel glad that I had braved the elements and taken such an incredible and artistic walk through history.

Everyone wants to see the Duomo, but everyone should seek out Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore.  Truly one of Milan’s gems!

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Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore

Out Of This World

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Happy to be going to a different location this weekend, I sat in front of my computer and googled “Things to Do In Brussels”.  The usual stuff was displayed on my screen.

The Grand Place…no trip is complete without wandering around the main square and I knew at some point during this trip, I would probably end up there.

Day trips to Bruges…my god, how I wish I had the time!!!

Mannekin Pis…seriously…how many times can I watch him pee?

The Atomium…now, here is something I haven’t done.

Located in the northern part of the city between the royal estates of Laeken and Stuyvenbergh, the Atomium is a structure originally built for the Expo 58, the 1958 Brussels World’s Fair.  An unusual fabrication, it forms the shape of a unit cell of an iron crystal magnified 165 billion times!  Now a famous landmark and museum, it has become the most popular tourist attraction and the symbol of Europe’s capital city.

Though the trip to the northern part of the city is normally an uncomplicated one, we soon discovered that work was being done on the train lines.  After riding the metro back and forth between two stations and pairing up with three Swedish women, we all found that we had to exit that station and take a specially marked bus to the Atomium.

A short walk later, we found ourselves staring up at the amazing, shiny structure that appears to have been deposited by aliens!  Something truly out of this world!

Making our way to the base of the Atomium, we found our way to a long, snaking line in order to purchase tickets.  12 euros later, we again found ourselves in another line to enter to building, having to pass thru metal detectors and endure bag searches.

Finally…another line…but this time to make our way up to the permanent exhibition on the second floor.

The permanent exhibition details how the Atomium came to be, from the conception and designs of engineer André Waterkeyn and architects André and Jean Polak. Standing 335 feet tall, its nine, 60 foot diameter stainless steel clad connected spheres represent the faith one had in the power of science and nuclear power.  The 1958 World’s Fair was organized, at the time, to promote the world’s technological and scientific advances, to look to a better future and to encourage world peace.  There are many sketches and displays detailing the beginnings of this immense engineering project as well as many old pictures, some detailing the visits of the six million visitors to the fair, including the likes of celebrities such as Elizabeth Taylor.

Though some of the information was interesting, the area appeared to be straight out the 1950’s and cartoon, the Jetson’s…very much in need of an update!

From the Atomium map, it seemed that we should have been able to traverse the tubes to other exhibitions throughout the structure, however, we were sent back to the bottom floor after our tour of the permanent exhibition.  Corralled into another area, we found ourselves in line…once again…this time to take the elevator to the top, viewing level.

Finally, arriving at the top sphere, we were rewarded with 360 degree views of the surrounding area and the city of Brussels.  With bright, blue, sunny skies it was easy to see areas far away as well as the royal estates nearby and Mini-Europe almost directly beneath.

After making our way around the top of the Atomium, we ascended the stairs to the restaurant at the top of the orb, where we once again encountered our Swedish friends.  Though the restaurant Belgium Taste, has a full menu, having a drink to appreciate the beautiful views through the full-length windows appears to be the norm later in the afternoon.

Once again, standing in line for the elevator, we made our way to the base of the Atomium, through the gift shop and out of the building.  Heading down the avenue, we walked far enough to reach the roundabout where a vast amount of tulips were planted for some colorful pictures and then further down to a fountain, passing monuments and parks along the way.

Finding ourselves further from the bus drop off and remembering the disruption on the subway lines, we decided to make our way home via tram.  Taking a tram from Centenaire, we traveled to De Wand where we encountered amazing grafitti throughout the area.  Taking a few minutes, we snapped a few photos before our tram arrived.  Departing De Wand, we were able to travel all the way to the Bourse near the Grand Place.

See…I told you I would end up in the Grand Place at some point.

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The Atomium

  • Address:  Avenue de l’Atomium, 1020 Bruxelles, Belgium
  • Hours:  Daily, 1000-1800 (box office closes at 1730)
  • Admission:  Adults (18-59 years), €12, Children (under 6), coach drivers, people with disabilities, free, Children (6 – 11 yrs), €6, Teens (12 – 17 yrs), €8, Students (with student ID), €8, Senior citizens (aged 60 yo and above): €9
  • Combination tickets may be purchased with ADAM (Art and Design Museum) and the adjacent Mini Europe.
  • Getting There:  The Atomium is a 5 minute walk from the Heysel / Heizel metro station (line 6) and right opposite Mini-Europe.  You can also depart Bourse station near the Grand place and switch at De Wand station to Centenaire (Line 19 or 23) for a more colorful journey or in the event of subway disruption.

Temple of Victory

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Making my way through throngs of shoppers at the weekend market taking place at the Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio, I gathered my bearings and was attempting to find my way to the nearest Metro station.  Passing between the apsidal area of the Basilica and the seat of the Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, I stood mesmerized at a gate separating me from a tall, marble monument.

The Temple of Victory.

Only…I didn’t know what it was at the time.

Attempting to photograph the temple, I assumed it was part of Sant’ Ambrogio, but inaccessible to public visitation.  Turning onto the adjacent street, I glanced back through the temple’s gates and noticed two people walking near the base. Appearing that is was indeed open to the public, I frantically began searching the perimeter for the entrance.  I  wanted to check this place out!

Street view to Catholic University. Temple on right.

Walking around the enclosure, I passed through an open gate, but witnessed a gentleman attendant folding up his table and chair.  Noticing that it was almost five o’clock and probably closing time, I decided to enter and play the part of  “the stupid tourist” if confronted!

Interior gate view from Temple grounds
Part of Entrance gate

First, walking around the base of the structure, I photographed the amazing statue of Saint Ambrogio by Adolfo Wildt and admired the intricately carved faces in the niches in the facade by artists such as Lombardi, Supino and Maiocchi.  Peering into the structure through a closed glass doorway, I decided that I was definitely going in!

 The door on the opposite side was not yet closed and I no longer noticed the attendant.  Walking into the shrine, I quickly made my way both up and down the stairways.

After inspecting the upper floor, I made my way down to the bottom and the ossuary.  Noting that it was a monument of extreme importance and reverence, I stood in silence reading some of the thousands of names that lined the walls.

I slowly wandered the marble floors and inspected the memorials on each of the levels.

After my retreat to the ground level, I encountered the attendant standing beside the entrance.  Asking him if he minded giving me some background information on the temple, he happily obliged in excellent English!

The Temple of Victory (also known as Shrine of the Fallen Milanes or Monument to the Fallen), a marble, monumental complex dedicated to the fallen Milanese of the Great War, was inaugurated on November 4, 1928 on the 10th anniversary of Vittorio Veneto, the battle won by the Italians in World War II.

The complex is one of extreme symbolism and stands on the site of the ancient cemetery of the martyrs.  The black stone fence surrounding the monument replicates the same measurements of the atrium of Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio.  The eight sides of the building are oriented towards the eight gates of Milan which reminds one of the streets that the soldiers traversed from Milan to join the Italian troops.  The four large arches and the symbols carved represent the four years of war and names of the great battles the Armed Forces fought in.  Lastly, the four lateral sides symbolize the four natural elements, earth, water, fire and air.

Built between 1927 and 1930 and based on a design by Giovanni Muzio who collaborated with architects Gio Ponti and Tommaso Buzzi, the structure sustained major damage during World War II, but was later reconstructed.  The nucleus of the temple contains an ossuary on the bottom floor that is surrounded by bronze plaques with the names of ten thousand Milanese who died during the war.  Inside there are many beautiful monuments such as Mausoleo di Rosa dei Venti Teodorico or di Atene.

If you are in the area at night, you may be able to notice the signal light at the top of the monument.  An electric light beam with four rotating rays can be seen more than ten miles away.

Taking a trip to the Sant’ Ambrogio area of Milan is a definite addition to one’s itinerary.  However, if you are a history or war buff, a stop next door to the Temple of Victory helps in one’s understanding Milan’s importance in World War II and the lives lost during this important time in history.  Definitely a must see, especially on a beautiful day!

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Temple of Victory

  • Address:  Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 1, Milano
  • Hours:  unknown
  • Getting There:  Take the Metro to metro stop, S. Ambrogio

 

The Canals of Milan

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Everyone knows about the canals of Venice and Amsterdam.  But does anyone know that Milan has canals too?

Most visitors to Milan tend to stay in the Duomo area.  Though a beautiful and energetic area, a little homework or just asking around, can point you in the right direction in finding Navigli district, an area lesser known to visitors.

In the south of the city, the navigli were a system of  five navigable and interconnected canals constructed in 1179 to connect Milan with the nearby lakes.  Naviglio Grande, Naviglio Pavese, Naviglio Martesana, Naviglio di Paderno and Naviglio Bereguardo were the waterways used to transport goods to the city from nearby areas, including the marble used in the construction of Milan’s famed landmark, the Duomo.

Today, only three of the canals exist…Naviglio di Paderno and Naviglio Bereguardo having been overlaid.  Though the canals are now mainly used for irrigation, two of the canals, Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese are used by tourist operators and you can see their boats motoring up and down the canals during the warmer months of the year.

Riding the metro late in the afternoon, I eyed the many young people, dressed up for the Saturday night.  Disembarking at the Porto Genova stop, we all made our way down to the main canal.  Being a beautiful sunny day, there were masses of people spilling out from the scores of bars, restaurants and cafes that line the canal.  Happy hour  was underway and specials were advertised throughout the area, most offering drinks and accompanying appetizer buffets.

Many of the younger set made their way to the grassy areas that line the canal near the Ticinese dock, while families biked the paths that line Navigli Martesana.

Tourists crowded on the the many bridges that span the canals, all clamoring to get that perfect selfie and other artwork was abound with countless galleries and signs pointing to courtyards showcasing local artists work.   Design showrooms and temporary outdoor photography and art exhibits can be found throughout the area.

If shopping is your thing, head to the Navigli Grande for the flea market held on the last Sunday of every month, except July.  From Viale Gorizia to the bridge on the Via Valenza, covering almost two kilometres on the banks of the Naviglio Grande, you will find everything from jewelry, to furniture to clothing.

Whatever you enjoy, take a moment to head down to this vibrant area of Milan…there is something for everyone!

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Navigli Grande

  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Metro, Porto Genova stop or Tram 2

Ancient Ambrogio

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Strolling through the quiet and picturesque neighborhoods of Milan is a peaceful experience.

There are countless churches throughout the city and many that I have earmarked to visit.  As I wandered through the streets, I realized that I was near the Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio.  Admiring the architecture and stopping every now and then for a picture or two, I took my time as I found my way to the church.

Suddenly,  I turned a corner and realized that Sant’ Ambrogio was right before me.

 There went the peace and quiet.

On this day, a flower market and a flea market was taking place in the church’s courtyard as well as on the grounds.  Masses of people were milling about, buying plants, flowers and clothing and some just enjoying the beautiful, sunny day.

Making my way through the throngs of patrons, I tried to take in the basilica’s enormous atrium and hut shaped facade, flanked by two red brick bell towers, the 9th century Tower of the Monks (Torre dei Monaci, used by the monks to call of the faithful to the monk’s mass) and the canon’s 12th century bell tower, one taller than the other.   Two loggias decorate the facade with the upper reserved for the bishops to bless the citizens. Archaeological remains line the walls and deserve a look…when not surrounded by annuals and perennials!

As I entered the basilica, I can say that it is both breathtaking in its beauty but also in its age.  Construction of this masterpiece was begun at the end of the 4th century and is known as the oldest church in Milan.  Built by St. Ambrose in 379-386, it was established in an area where numerous martyrs of the Roman persecutions had been buried and was originally named Basilica Martyrum.

The first thing you notice when entering the church is that there is no transept.  The Romanesque-style church has a semi-circular apse and smaller, semi-circular chapels at the end of the aisles.

Walking along the outer edges of the church, I loved inspecting the many side chapels, including the Chapel of Saint Savina and the Chapel of Saint George which house relics of the saints.  The Basilica’s crypt, located under the high altar, contains the remains of three saints, Saint Ambrose, Saint Gervasus and Protasus, all of which may be accessed and viewed.  The church also houses the tomb of Emperor Louis II, who died in Lombardy in 875.

The Basilica’s interior also houses the Stilicho’s Sepulchre, a magnificent fourth century sarcophagus with decorated high reliefs and the Oratory of San Vittorio, a chapel built before the first basilica and incorporated during construction.

For an small fee (2€), you may enter the Oratory and view the archaeological remains and beautiful golden domed ceiling.

Though the basilica sustained damage during Allied bombing in 1943, the integrity of the church remains and is one that should be seen while in Milan.  Take your time when visiting this magnificent and ancient structure.  Hopefully, when you visit, it just might be a little quieter!

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Basilica di Sant’ Ambrogio

  • http://www.basilicasantambrogio.it/
  • Address:  Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15, 20123 Milano, Italy
  • Hours:  0700-12:00 and 1430-1900
  • Admission:  free
  • Admission:  Oratory, €2.00
  • Getting There:  Metro line 2 (green line), stop Sant’ Ambrogio.  The church is situated just right in front of the exit of the metro.  From the Duomo, about a 15 minute walk.  Bus lines, 50, 58, 94.

 

Art and Architecture Appreciation Day

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Sometimes things go as planned.

Sometimes they don’t.

That’s when you make lemonade out of lemons!

My plan for the day in Milan was to visit the Duomo.  I hadn’t been there in years and was excited to see it and photograph it again.

After taking the metro and arriving in the Piazza del Duomo, I reached into my bag to pull out my camera.  Trying to take a picture of the Duomo, I realized that the shutter wasn’t reacting.  Thinking that I may have broken it somehow, I turned it over and realized that the battery door had come loose and the battery was probably still in my bag back in my hotel room.

Argggghhh!

Okay, I really wanted to take some amazing photographs of the Duomo’s interior, but without my camera, it would have to wait.  Looking up at the bright blue sky, I realized that maybe, it was just a better day to go exploring and save the Duomo for a rainy one.  So…that’s what I did.  Checking some saved locations on my Google maps and the condition of my iPhone battery (since that was going to act as my camera), I set off on my Art and Architecture Appreciation Tour.

Here’s what I found.

The Duomo…of course!  So beautiful and always wonderful to gaze upon.

Beautiful buildings and architectures exist everywhere in Milan.  Turn down random streets.  Look up. Look all around.  You never know what you might find!

The Milan Stock Exchange.  The interesting sculpture in front of the Milan Stock Exchange building placed there since 2015, and designed by Maurizio Cattelan, has caused much controversy but brings in the curiosity seekers.  About four meters high, on a base of eleven meters, the marble sculpture is officially titled L.O.V.E., but reading between the lines, gazers can take away the message that they see for themselves.  All of the fingers have been cut off except the middle one, butchered by the scammers-turned-entrepreneurs who have dominated the Italian Stock market for generations.  This is a big F***You! from the people.

Palazzo Borromeo and Santa Maria Padone.  Palazzo Borromeo was built in the late 14th century when the Florentine Borromeo family moved to Milan.  Remodeled over the centuries and badly damaged during the air raids of 1943, it’s appearance today is not of its original construction.  The square was created in 1440 following the demolition of a number of houses purchased by the Borromeo family to create a space linking the family palace with the 9th century parish church of Santa Maria Padone.  The Romanesque church was transformed into a small basilica and a small family chapel was added in the 15th century.

The Roman Circus.  Did you know that there are some Roman ruins remaining in Milan?  What shocked me most was that there once was a Roman circus right in the middle of the city, occupying an area between Via del Torchio, Via Cappuccio, Corso Magenta, Via Brisa and Via Morigi.  The original structure was 450 meters long by 80 meters wide and probably built by Emperor Maximian in the 4th century A.D.  A few blocks of the foundations of the stands remain (some can be found in the cellars of some houses in Via Cappuccio and Via Morigi) and some parts have been incorporated into newer structures.

Imperial Palace.  Close to the circus, you can find the remains of the Roman Imperial Palace complex.  Many different buildings were used privately and publicly by the Emperor as well as his court officials and the imperial bureaucracy.  As in other Italian cities, the Emperor had direct access from his palace to the circus.

Colonne di San Lorenzo.  The colonnade, located in the front of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, consists of 16 tall Corinthian columns in a row.  The columns were relocated to this area in the 4th century after presumably being removed from a 2nd century pagan temple or bath house.  South of the colonnade is a remaining city gate, the medieval Porta Ticinese (see new Porta Ticinese below).  The area serves as a meeting place as well as a hangout for young people, especially during the evenings.

The Wall of Dolls.  A permanent exhibition, by artist Joe Ring, located on Via de Amicis, near Colonne di San Lorenzo.  At first sight, it seems a bit disconcerting, however, it exerts a strong message…each doll represents women lost or who have succumbed to domestic violence and hate crimes.

Porta di Ticinese.  The modern city gate of Porta Ticinese is located long the Inner Ring Road at Piazza Venti Quattro Maggio, at the southern end of Corso di Porta Ticinese.  Built between 1801 and 1814, along the path of the old 16th century Spanish Walls, it replaced the gate from the Spanish Habsburg era.

So…after all these years of telling everyone that Milan is not my favorite city, “cause there’s nothing to do”…I think I might have to eat my words.

It’s definitely no Rome…there’s not something on every block, but I do have to say that I found some extremely interesting things during my Art and Appreciation Walk.  Milan is a bit like an onion!  Taking the time to peel back the layers, you can definitely find some fascinating things throughout the city.

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 Borsa Italiana (Milan Stock Exchange)

Piazza Borromeo and Santa Maria Padone

Roman Circus

Imperial Palace

  • Address:  Via Brisa, Milano Italy
  • Hours:  Open 24 hours, Street View
  • Admission:  free

Colonne di San Lorenzo

Wall of Dolls

  • Address:  Via de Amicis, 2 20122 Milano, Italy
  • Hours:  Open 24 hours

Porta di Ticinese

 

The Birdmen of the Beach

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Walking along the Malecón, in Puerto Vallarta, there is no shortage of free entertainment.

Bartenders and waitresses, line dance on the sidewalk to entice you to enter.

Renaissance figures mysteriously float over the sidewalk.

Shiny Mexican outlaws decorate the benches.

Statues pour water.

They are all there to entertain you and make a quick peso!

As we strolled along the boardwalk, at the noon hour, I noticed a tall pole in the distance.  There was movement at the top and as we neared, I realized that there were five men perched atop this pole.  Searching my memory, I realized that I had seen this before somewhere else in Mexico.

These were the Mexican pole flyers (or birdmen, as they are sometimes known) who perform Voladores de Papantla, the Ritual of the Voladores.

Persuading my children that we should wait, we found a shady spot under a palm tree and watched the brightly dressed men prepare for their ceremony.

The dance of the flyers is a Mesoamerican ceremony in which five participants climb to the top of a thirty foot pole.  Suspended by ropes wound around the top of the pole, four of the flyers, representing the four directions and the elements of air, water, earth and fire, fall backward off of the pole and then fly through the air upside down, sometimes in elegant birdlike poses, as they are rotated thirteen times and lowered to the ground.  The fifth dancer, playing a drum and a flute, remains at the top.

According to legend, this ceremony was created to ask the gods to stop droughts in ancient times, but is now a recognized historical and cultural dance that is kept alive by communities to honor the historical traditions and rituals of ancient cultures. Voladores de Papantla ceremony was named an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in 2009, in order to help the ritual survive and thrive in the modern world and may be seen in various areas throughout the country.

A school for flyer children was established in Takilhsukut Park on Tecolutla, Mexico, where formal instruction is given on ceremony.  Flyers must spend ten to twelve years in preparation before participation in an event and women are prohibited from performing.   Sometimes a dangerous event, there are many deaths each year due to poorly knotted ropes and other types of improper preparations.

We were all mesmerized as we watched the colorful flyers wind their way down to the beach below, wondering aloud how they were able to stand after the continuous spinning!

The large crowd that had gathered, rightly erupted into applause for the performers at the end of their performance.  Truly an unforgettable experience!

Needless to say…the hat that was passed, gathered many a peso!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Los Voladores

  • The pole is on the beach adjacent to the Malecón, directly opposite Senor Frogs nightclub & the flyers perform throughout the day.
  • Tip generously!!!

 

Shut Up and Fish!

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When you head to one of the greatest deep sea fishing locations in the Pacific…well…

you FISH!

While in Puerto Vallarta, my husband decided that we absolutely needed to book a fishing trip.  Checking around on the internet, we had yet to make a decision on a charter and were lying around on the beach, when we were approached by a gentleman offering to take us out on his boat.

After speaking with him a bit about the expedition, he seemed sincere and we decided to book the trip with him.  Paying him a $100 deposit, we arranged to meet him the next morning at the nearby marina.  A little later, however, I must admit, that the idea that he may have just collected money from us and would not actually show entered my mind!  Probably not the savviest decision on my part!

A quick cab ride the next morning, while the sun was rising, deposited us at the marina and thankfully, Hector was there…loading up his boat and waiting for us!

Boarding Hector’s thirty-six foot cabin cruiser, The Miramar, we made ourselves comfortable and were soon motoring out of the harbor into the open water.

As the sun ascended, the calm blue water spread before us like an open road.  Half asleep, we suddenly heard the captain shout.  Opening our eyes and following his gaze, we spotted spray shooting up from the ocean’s surface.  A Bryde’s whale was breaking the surface and we spied it’s slender, bluish-grey body make its way through the water.  It surfaced and dove a few times before we were unable to locate it any longer.  Such excitement!  Not to be outdone, a pod of bottle nose dolphin decided that it would be fun to follow the boat.  More fun for us as we watched them from the confines of our craft.

Excitement aside, Hector began placing the fishing rods in their holders at the rear of the boat…five in all…trailing the lures in the dark blue water behind us.

It didn’t take long…the bonitas were biting!  A strong, fighting fish, we all took turns struggling to pull them in one by one, even though they were not the largest fish we had ever caught.  A few Spanish mackerel even took the bait!  Pretty soon, the sun was high, the air was warm and our live well was teeming with a multitude of fish.

After three full hours of fishing, it was finally time to turn and make the return hour-long journey.  One of the best parts of the day, however, was yet to come.  Unable to take our catch home with us, Hector had brought the necessities to make cerviche.  We marveled as he made quick work of cleaning our haul throwing the entrails out into the water…the seagulls swooping in for a free meal.

We watched, mouths watering, as he chopped red onions, white onions, jalapeno, tomatoes, cucumbers and limes.  Letting the concoction marinate for a bit, it was soon time to taste the fruit of Hector’s labor…

Muy delicioso!  Hector’s cerviche was spicy and probably the best I had ever tasted!  SO good that I had to steal his recipe (which I fixed when I got home with some fresh fish we caught in our lake)!

Enjoying our light lunch, we sailed back into the marina.  Our fishing adventure had come to an end!  Thanking (and tipping) Hector and his captain, we gathered our belongings and disembarked The Miramar, hopping onto a local bus for the short journey back to our hotel.

Though we did not venture out for an entire day’s trip, nor did we catch any larger game fish, the journey out on the Bay of Banderas was a fun and exciting one!

Things to keep in mind…

A valid Mexican Sport Fishing License is required before fishing in Mexican waters.  Fishing license are usually included in the booking price (as ours was) or can be purchased from the charter operator.

One rod per person in the water at all times.

It is prohibited to sell the catch.

You need to be at least 250 meters away from swimmers in order to practice sporfishing.

For smaller fish, expect to book a four or five hour charter and remain in the Bay of Banderas.  For larger, sport fish, expect to book a full day’s charter and a lot more time in the boat making your way out to the fishing grounds.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Puerto Vallarta Fishing Charters

 

The Crown of Puerto Vallarta

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

In many Mexican cities, you will find in the heart of that city…a square dominated by a church.

Puerto Vallarta is no different, though the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe sits on a smaller square, nestled away between many buildings.  Called “one of the most endearing” of the city’s landmarks, it’s wrought-iron crown can be spied almost anywhere throughout the city and one that I absolutely wanted to visit during my visit to this coastal Mexican city.

In 1903, there was a small chapel located in the current location, dedicated to the Virgin Guadalupe, however, foundations were beginning to be laid for the current church.  With the arrival of Father Francisco Ayala in 1915, it was suggested that the foundations be expanded for a larger temple than had been planned.

Walls and pillars were finished by 1917, however construction began in earnest in the early 1920’s.  Though construction was halted temporarily in 1926, due to the Cristero War, it was resumed in 1930 with the addition of the dome.  The entire building was completed in 1940 with the exception of the two towers.  The chancel and organ were installed in 1951 and the main tower, topped with the wrought-iron crown, finally in 1952.

Although it has been speculated that the crown was designed to resemble one worn by Empress Carlota of Mexico, this has been found to be untrue.  To “crown” the Parish, the current crown was placed on the main tower in 1965 and was designed by José Esteban Ramírez Guareño.

When walking through the city, you can see how beloved this landmark is as it is depicted in photos, shirts, logos and postcards.  Many congregate near and in front of the church and you can hear the church bells rung by the sextants 30 and 15 minutes prior to each service.  If you are lucky enough to be in Puerto Vallarta during Our Lady of Guadalupe Festival (Feast of Guadalupe, December 1 through December 12), you will notice that the bell ringing and and festivities reach a frenzied level.  Processions advance through the streets, including dancing warriors, banners, music, singing and colorful floats depicting scenes of the Virgin and Juan Diego, the Indian peasant that she appeared to in 1531.  Thousands of visitors descend upon the city and the streets are lined with vendors selling food, sweets, souvenirs, toys and more.

Take the time to admire the church from the square and other vantage points, however, be sure to take a moment to attend mass or just take a look around between services.  The architecture is a mix of various styles…neoclassical, renaissance, baroque.  The interior design is a tribute to the original Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City.  Particular attention should be paid the to the idolized image of Our Lady of Guadalupe and a 1945 oil replica by Guadalajaran artist Ignacio Ramirez.  Beautiful religious images are painted on wood throughout the structure, carved wooden confessionals stand proud and waiting and the elaborate marble altar are the main focus of the church.

There is much love and devotion in the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe.  When visiting Puerto Vallarta, be sure to make it a priority!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Our Lady of Guadalupe

  • http://parroquiadeguadalupevallarta.com/
  • Address:  Calle Hidalgo 370, Centro, 48300 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico
  • Mass Schedule:  Monday-Friday, 0730, 1200, 1900.  Saturday, 0730, 1200, 1700, 1800, 1930, 2030.  Sunday, 0630, 0800, 1000, 1200, 1830, 1930, 2030