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Tired of the usual tourist attractions in Milan? Already visited the Duomo? Motored the canals of the Navigli district?
Take a walk to the Zone of Silence neighborhood, located northeast of the Cathedral of San Babila. Aptly named because of its location tucked away from Milan’s heavily trafficked streets, it offers many early modern buildings. One of these, Casa Sola-Busca, is nothing architecturally spectacular in itself…what is located on the front of the building is what you need to seek out, keeping in mind the irony of the neighborhood name.
Nicknamed “Ca ‘de l’Oreggia” or “House of the Ear”, the building features a large ear on its facade.
Yes…an ear.
Long before doorbells were commonplace, a method of announcement was required by visitors. Hence, the ear.
Designed by master sculptor, Adolfo Wildt and maestros Lucio Fontana and Luigi Brogginiin in 1930, the auditory organ was used by callers…to do just that. Calling right into the ear, which was equipped with an early intercom, it allowed visitors to announce their arrival.
After many years of the ear’s existence, the original owners and creators relinquished their residence. Despite the ear’s former practicality, subsequent tenants finally had the sculpture disconnected, as many a curious passerby could not resist revealing their secrets into the able ear.
The now quiet ear is still visible today on Via Serbelloni.
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Casa Sola-Busca
- Address: Via Serbelloni 10, Milan, Italy
- Hours: No posted hours
- Admission: free
- Getting There: From metro stop, San Babila, take Corso Venezia northwest, crossing Via Senato. Continue of Via Senato to Via Gabrio Serbelloni and take a right. Casa Sola-Busca is located on the right.
A beautiful day in the city, it was a nice walk to the Pacaembu Stadium where I found the grounds filled with young kids practicing to the sounds of Brazilian music. Paying my admission, I first entered the stadium, gazing up at the stands and down at the rich, green turf that has withstood the trampling of the Big 4 football clubs of the State of São Paulo…Corinthians, Palmeiras, São Paulo and Santos.
Before making your way through the museum, be aware of one thing…everything is written in Portuguese. There is, however, a helpful app which guides you through each of the areas of the museum.
Many areas of the museum contain interactive exhibits that you can access and participate in. After encountering the most famous football players in history, you will be able to listen to the Radio broadcasts by Ary Barroso from the 1940’s and Osmar Santos, four decades later. Here, you can choose your favorite announcer by name or by year when the goal took place. You can also choose your favorite historic goal and later on, practice your own goal kicks.
There are countless photographs, team flags and old uniform pieces…even old cleats. You can even challenge your friends to a game…of foosball,…the tabletop version of the game.
My favorite part of the museum, however, was the Room of Celebration. Dedicated to the fans of the sport, it reminds us how the sport unites. Sound bytes of cheering fans echo under the stadium and videos are broadcast on the supporting pillars…those firmly planted in the ground when the stadium was built and those that support the bleachers on which the fans congregate. It is very loud in this area…however, I am sure it is nothing compared to what is the reality during an exciting game!
The Futbol Museum is very interesting for all visitors, especially younger ones who may not understand what part Brazil played in escalating the sport. For the older visitors, it is a walk through the past. And for the price (less than $4), it is something truly worth experiencing in São Paulo!
The phenomenal thing about Batman Alley is that you can visit each time you are in São Paulo and when you turn the corner into the alley, you never know what you may find. The art is continually renovated and looked after by the community and is always breathtaking. Even though it is ever changing, you can still find Batman, so be sure to search for him.
From my first visit to this unique area, I have noticed a huge increase in visitors. I’m not sure how I found this area, because years ago, it was not very well known to tourists and of course, takes a bit of doing to get there. Today, I observed more foot traffic as well as Uber depositing those too time-pressed to walk. There are many more cafes lining the streets adjacent to the alley and college-aged students and young professionals enjoying the sunshine and a beer or two.
The biggest difference, however, is in the alley itself. In addition to the hordes of people attempting to photograph the exclusive artwork, there are the young girls attempting to get the most awe-inspiring pictures for their Facebook profile or for Instagram. There are wanna-be photographers (some possibly real) and their wanna-be models complete with wardrobe changes and props, hoping that the exclusive location (if not the outcome of their work) will give both of their portfolios a leg-up. So unique is the area that I even observed a couple taking their engagement photos here!
Every wall is filled with amazing portraits, depictions and different styles of graffiti. If you are lucky, you might even catch an artist (or two) at work. Take your time, dodge the masses and be patient with the photo-shoots…Batman Alley is a place to relish…not rush, and, when you have finished walking through the alley, spend a little time walking the neighboring streets…many more interesting forms of artwork can be found, making the long walk to get there absolutely worth the blisters!
Watching the movie, it was quite thrilling to see the Map Room, which was used continually by the officers of the Royal Navy, British Army and Royal Air Force who produced a daily intelligence summary for the King, Prime Minister and the military Chiefs of Staff. The other room I recognized was the Cabinet Room, from which Churchill visited in 1940 and famously declared, “This is the room from which I will direct the war.” And that he did. 115 Cabinet meetings, in all, were held in the Cabinet War Rooms.
Having seen the magnificent Westminster Abbey, in all of its glory the day before, this cathedral could have been sort of a letdown. However, you can’t compare apples to oranges. Southwark has an amazing history and some unique things to see as well.
Making your way toward the altar on the cathedral’s north aisle, you will encounter the tomb of medieval English poet, John Gower. A friend of Geoffrey Chaucer, he lived in the cathedral’s priory from the 1370’s until his death at the age of 78. His body is interred with his head resting on one of his most famous works, Speculum Meditantis, Vox Clamantis and Confessio Amantis. The latter’s first editions were dedicated to Richard II.
On the north aisle of the cathedral is the North Transept and many monuments are located in this area, most notably the monument to Lionel Lockyer, a physician whose pills were said to heal all ailments and another to lawyer and poet, William Austin. Austin’s monument, created by Nicholas Stone, a famous 17th century sculptor, is hard to miss for its size.
Take a peek into the Harvard Chapel and inspect the John Harvard Memorial window before continuing on toward the Lady Chapel. Along the way, take in the Humble Monument, which pays homage to Alderman Richard Humble, a member of the church vestry, and his two wives, Elizabeth and Isabel. Equally impressive is the Medieval Effigy of a Knight, an incredible carving of a knight, possible a crusader, dating from 1280.
Between the north and south aisles, behind the altar is one of the greatest treasures of the cathedral, the High Altar Screen. Erected in 1520 by Bishop Fox of Winchester, the screen displays three lines of statues depicting St. Olaf (King Olaf II of Norway) who converted to Christianity and is know for pulling down the London Bridge to protect the city from an assault from the Danes. Also featured are the figures of poet John Gower, King Henry I, Thomas Becket, St. Peter, St. Paul, Cardinal Beaufort, Bishop Fox and many others. There are also carvings of the Lamb of God, a pelican (badge of Bishop Fox), a row of angels and hunting scenes.
Be sure to inspect the tomb of Bishop Lancelot Andrewes located on the south aisle. A high ranking bishop, during the reigns of Queen Elizabeth I and James I of England, Andrewes was a key translator of the King James version of the Bible and assisted at King James’s coronation. During the latter part of his life, he became Dean of Winchester remaining in the position until his death at the age of 71 in 1626.
The last major attraction in the church is the Memorial Window of Shakespeare with a remarkable alabaster statue, created in 1912 by Henry McCarthy, of the great writer in repose, quill in hand. Shakespeare was a parishioner who worshiped at the cathedral when he lived near the Globe Theater. William’s brother Edmund was buried on the church grounds in 1607, however, the exact location of his tomb is unknown.
Before leaving the church, make sure to take a quick walk around the grounds of the church. While taking a look at the stunning Gothic architecture, also look for shrapnel damage which is still visible from the bombs dropped in the area between October 1940 to June 1941. Also, take a look at the archaeological remains located in the far side of the entry hall.
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A church on this site has been dated back to 1080, however, construction of the present church was begun, on orders of King Henry III, in 1245. In addition to the coronations, other notable events have been held at the abbey, including sixteen royal weddings (most recently, Prince William to Kate Middleton in 2011), the funeral of Diana, Princess of Wales and countless burials.
Following the audio guide, I was led past incredible sculpture and the 600 plus memorials in the Nave to the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior, in St. George’s chapel, which holds an unidentified British soldier, killed during World War I on a European battlefield. This young soldier was interred in Westminster Abbey in 1920 around the same time an unknown French soldier was interred at the Arc de Triomphe in France. These were the first two graves to honor the unknown dead from the First World War.
In the rear of the sanctuary is the Confessor’s Chapel and Henry VII’s Chapel. Henry VII’s 16th century chapel contains the tomb of Henry VII and his Queen. Be sure to take a look upward at the fan vaulting and richly appointed sculpture as well as the banners and carved stalls of the Knights of the Order of the Bath. Also, be sure not to miss Innocents Corner, the burial place of Sophie and Mary (James I daughters) who were only two and three years old at their passing and the small sarcophagus of Edward IV who was murdered in the Tower of London. The royal tombs of Elizabeth I and her predecessor, Mary Tudor, Charles II, William II and Queen Anne are also located within the chapel. Another point of interest is the Royal Air Force Chapel dedicated to the fallen in the Battle of Britain.
Though I had been able to get a few photos during the initial part of my visit, it was here in Henry VII’s chapel that I was informed that my phone had to be turned off. Apparently, photography and filming are not allowed in Winchester Abbey. As a devout admirer of sculpture and architecture as well as photography, it was disheartening to not be able to capture the beautiful images I was seeing in order to share with others.
As I walked through the Cloisters, dating from the 13th and 14th century, I admired the long vaulted corridors and the beautifully manicured courtyard in the center. The cloisters contain many tombs, the entrance to Dean’s Yard and the oldest garden in England, College Garden. There are also rooms located on the western side of the cloisters which include the Deanery, Jericho Parlor and the Jerusalem Chamber, the place of Henry IV’s death in 1413.
Located near the northern end of London Bridge, the Monument to the Great Fire of London, the fluted Doric column built of Portland stone, commemorates the Great Fire of London which started on September 2, 1666. Built between 1671 and 1677, it was here that the first church to be burnt down during the Great Fire, St. Margaret’s, was located. This historic monument was designed by Christopher Wren and Robert Hooke and its height marks the distance from the site of the shop of the king’s baker, where the Great Fire began.
If you have time (which I did not on this day), a viewing platform is located at the top of the monument and can be accessed by 311 steps on a narrow winding staircase. The summit of the monument is marked by a flaming gilt-bronze urn which sports a 360-degree panoramic camera which is updated every minute and runs 24 hours a day, providing a record of weather, building and ground activity in the city.
Originally built in 1100, the church was severely damaged during the Great Fire. Instead of rebuilding the church, the decision was made to repair it from 1668 to 1671, adding a steeple, designed by Christopher Wren, a few years later in 1695.
While the tower now houses the All Hallows House Foundation, the parish is combined with the Benefice of All Hallows by the Tower. If you are lucky enough to be in London on certain holidays, such as Palm Sunday, open-air services are held in the church followed by a procession to the All Hallows by the Tower along St Dunstan’s Hill and Great Tower Street.
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The Kunsthal Museum, located in the Museumpark in Rotterdam is unique in that it offers no permanent collection, instead, a wide range of temporary exhibits, attracting visitors who may come from one artist and open their mind to another totally different kind of art.
Social media is inundated with fetching felines. Anywhere you look on you YouTube today, you can find countless videos on cats. Check out Instagram and you’ll find cats exposed by their owners. In fact, cats are more popular than ever. Over the years, cats have inspired many artistic masterpieces by Henriette Ronner-Knip, Théophile-Alexandre Steinelen, Karel Appel, Picasso and Wallasse Ting, contemporary artists such as David Shrigley and photographer Marie Cécele Thijs and many of these are on display here. Meandering through the hall, you are offered some insight into how these artists were inspired by numerous felines. In fact, one area of the museum offers a place to experience what it is like to be a cat…creep around on all fours among the bushes, take a nap on one of the “cat beds”, sharpen your nails on a scratching post or take a stroll down the Catwalk. Cat lovers will be in heaven!
My favorites, however, were those that represented the cultural heritage of the airline, like Thai Airways, Allegheny Airlines, so proud of their name and of course, those worn throughout my own airline’s history! Though I loved seeing the various costumes worn by thousands, the way that they were displayed in a vertical manner, made it hard to inspect each of them at close range. All in all, however, it was thrilling to see such an awe-inspiring compilation of something so near and dear to my heart!
Though I cannot say that he was an artist whose work was one that I had previously sought out, I did enjoy his nude portraits of women from the 1920s and the paintings that incorporated macabre skeletons. The dreamlike quality exhibited in his work was extremely calming!
The next artist showcased in the Kunstal, was photographer Jeroen Oerlemans, a Dutch press photographer, who captured mesmerizing shots from Afghanistan, Chad, Libya, Haiti and Iraq of the local residents, despite the danger he constantly faced. The celebrated three-time recipient of the first prize in the Silver Camera foreign news category was unfortunately killed in 2016 by an IS sniper in the Libyan city of Sirte.
Despite visiting the museum for a specific purpose, I can concede that it was nice to step out of the winter day and enjoy some different types of art that I had not anticipated. Sometimes the best things are the least expected!
The first thing I noticed about Rotterdam is while there are new buildings and skyscrapers, there are also still some older buildings scattered throughout the city, sometimes sandwiched between newer construction. I thought that this gave an interesting quality to the city…a sort of ying-yang. The second thing I noticed was that sculpture is EVERYWHERE! Following the canal that led away from the train station, I began to see interesting pieces of artwork lining the banks. Each piece was identified by a metal plaque on the walkway advising observers of the name of the artwork, the artist’s name and location and year constructed. Making for a nice leisurely walk, I stopped at each of the sculptures as I made my way south on Westersingel to Eendrachtsplein, where I found the current location of the controversial sculpture by Paul McCarthy, Santa Claus. A shocking statue, it depicts the beloved Santa not holding a Christmas tree but a sex toy. While some people have defended it proclaiming that it reflects the fetishization of Christmas and the prevalent sexuality in consumer society, others declared it vulgar and offensive.
Further on, I gazed upward at the Euromast, the observation tower constructed between 1958 and 1960 and designed by Hugh Maaskant. Though I would have like to visit the observation platform to see the city from the tallest building in Rotterdam, time was limited and I was headed to the oldest part of the city, Delfshaven.
The Pilgrim Father’s Church, dating back to 1417, when the Roman Catholic Church of St. Anthony was consecrated on the site, later fell into Protestant hands in 1574. When a group of English dissenters fled to the Netherlands in 1608, they later decided to make the journey to America so that they might worship in their own way. On July 21, 1620, they knelt in prayer on the quay near the church before boarding the ship, the Speedwell.
The Erasmus Bridge (Erasmusbrug) was completed in 1996 and is the largest and heaviest bascule bridge in Western Europe, connecting the north and south parts of the city. Named after Desiderius Erasmus (Erasmus of Rotterdam), a prominent Christian renaissance humanist, the cable-stayed bridge section with its single asymmetrical pale blue pylon with a prominent horizontal base has earned the bridge the nickname, The Swan.
Finally, heading back toward the train station, I made three quick detours to see some fantastic landmarks, Kijk Kubus (Cube Houses), innovative housing designed by Piet Blom, Grote of St. Laurenskerk (Church of St. Lawrence), the only remnant of the medieval city of Rotterdam, and Stadhuis Rotterdam (City Hall), the Beaux Art style building (with Byzantine, Roman and Art Deco influences) that was one of the few buildings to survive the bombardment of World War II.
After five hours of intense sightseeing and walking throughout the old-yet-new city of Rotterdam, my feet were aching, yet satisfied. I had seen all that the city had to offer and was confident that future travels would be easier, allowing me to explore the city in depth.
It was time head back to Amsterdam and this time, I caught the Intercity Direct! Definitely the way to go! Heck, I didn’t really even have time to catch a nap!
After doing some research on the 2017-2018 Amsterdam Light Festival, I discovered that the land exhibition had been relocated to the Marineterrein area near the Maritime Museum, making it much more accessible to visitors arriving through Central Station.
Setting out during an extremely cold evening, I walked from Central Station along the water, following signs marking the way to the exhibit. Information booths were located at both ends of the exhibit, where you could obtain information about each of the light displays and purchase information guides.
Okayyyyy…
The next display, Innersense had me waiting for at least twenty minutes. I was admitted into a small space where I was instructed to step onto a small round platform under a “shower head.” Two Dutch ladies looked over at me and asked if I was feeling anything. Anything? No, just a shower head with lights changing color, giving me a “light shower”. Hmmm.
Another confusing one…Fields of Frequencies. Ushered into a small room there were benches and a screen. The light on the screen changed color to different frequencies. Exciting.
One of my favorites, however, was the small tin building with millions of small holes drilled into it. Brocken 6 A. After entering, we were subject to a smokey interior which reflected the light entering from the outside, offering thousands of rays of light. Another, Save Our Souls, was a projection onto one of the buildings which showed a stormy sea with an SOS light in the distance. I think we were supposed to wonder who might need help? Still, the projection was pretty awesome.
