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Another Arch

When I first visited Paris, one of the first things I remember (besides the Eiffel Tower), was the Arc de Triomphe. Located near my hotel, I was fascinated by the grand structure which seemed to have a constant stream of cars driving around it at all hours.

On another trip, I discovered an arch in Milan in the Piazza Sempione, and yet another, in Rome, the Arch of Constantine.

Hey wait, just how many arches are there? I thought this was a Parisian thing!

How wrong I was!

Triumphal arches are the most distinctive type of architecture that is associated with ancient Rome. These arches were mainly used for various reasons, mainly to commemorate the founding of new colonies, generals’ victories, construction of roadways and bridges, deaths of members of the imperial family or the accession of a new emperor.

These arches often span roadways, have one or more arched passageways and are decorated with carvings, sculpted reliefs and dedications.

Arches in the Roman style have been constructed in many cities around the world. Yes, the Arc de Triomphe, Milan’s Arco della Pace and Arch of Constantine, but there are so many more, including the Narva Triumphal Arch in Saint Petersburg, the Wellington Arch in London, the Arcul de Triumf in Bucharest, the India Gate in Delhi, the Arch of Caracalla in Tebessa, Algeria, Arch of Titus in Rome, the Siegestor in Munich and the Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Arch in New York, just to name a few.

A few years later, while walking around in Barcelona, I was surprised to see another arch, very similar to the one in Paris, without the cars. Instead, there were many people walking around and through the arch onto the promenade of the Passeig de Lluis Companys.

Barcelona’s Arc de Triomf was built as the main access gate for the 1888 World Fair, by Josep Vilaseca, and still stands today, a true icon of the city. As it once welcomed visitors, it does so today, guiding them to the Parc de la Ciutadella.

On the day that I decided to revisit this monument, the afternoon was one of those that are hard to duplicate on a winter’s day. The sun was radiant, the sky brilliantly clear and the temperature extremely mild. Hundreds of people walked along the Passeig de Lluis Companys, enjoying the climate’s perfection!

As I approached the arch from Avenida de Vilanova, I marveled at the reddish brickwork standing vividly against the blue sky. The front frieze contains the stone sculpture Barcelona rep les nacions (“Barcelona welcomes the nations”) by Josep Reynes. Walking along the sides of the arch, I studied the friezes which include the stories of agriculture and industry by Antoni Vilanova and of trade and art by Torquat Tassó. The two pillars of the arch feature carved bats, something unexpected, but what I learned, were the emblem of King Jaume I, who ruled Barcelona during a period of prosperity. As I walked through the arch to the other side, I marveled at the number of people out and about as well as vendors hawking everything from jewelry to balloons.

Making my way to the concrete gates that line the Passeig de Lluis Companys, I stopped to study amazing urns that top the concrete gate, while occasionally dodging a biker or two. I especially enjoyed studying the unique lighting structures that also provide seating for visitors as well as a couple of interesting statues, including one of Pau Claris, an important political figure who proclaimed the Catalan Republic under the protection of France.

The best way to appreciate the arch, however, is to stop, turn and take a look at it every so often as you walk toward the Parc de la Ciutadella. Its amazing to see even from afar with the palm trees that line the walkway, framing its beauty.

So…how many have triumphal arches have I seen so far? About five…but with many trips planned for the future, I will be sure to seek them all out.

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Arc de Triomf

https://www.barcelonaturisme.com/wv3/ca/page/1211/arc-de-triomf.html
Address: Passeig de Lluís Companys, 08003 Barcelona
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, L1, Arc de Triomf, Bus #s, 39, 40, 42, 51, B20, B25, H16

The Water Tower

Looking outside my window of my hotel room in Barcelona, I spy a strange-looking cylinder decorating the skyline.

Torre Glòries…formerly known as the Torre Agbar.

The contemporary bullet-shaped landmark ascends from Plaça de les Glòries and fills the skyline with the reflected colors of the Mediterranean by day and a multi-hued schemes by night. Though seemingly out of place among the more commonly shaped buildings, I rather enjoy its presence as it always lets me know where I am in the city.

Inaugurated in 2003, the iconic landmark was designed by Atelier Jean Nouvel to act as the headquarters for the water company, Grup Agbar. Often described as a water tower by the uninformed, because of its owners, it is not that in the true sense of the description, but rather only an office building. Standing just over 473 feet tall, it utilizes solar power and is covered with different colored glass louvers which can be tilted at different angles. These window blinds are regulated by temperature sensors (regulating the consumption of energy for air conditioning) and are illuminated by 4,500 LED devices. During holidays and other events, the tower’s lighting scheme can easily be changed by computer.

Though it is the third tallest building in the city and one for which the city has become known, it has not come about without it critics. Opened in June 2005, to a cost of 130 million euros, its design concept was described by the architect as one of a geyser spouting upward, the perfect home for a water company, though further leading people to believe it to be a water tower. It has also been said to have been inspired by the nearby mountain, Montserrat. Many others have also described the tower as having a phallic character. This unusual shape has garnered it several nicknames, el supositori (“the suppository”), l’obús (“the shell”) and it has been said that its round shape does not foster a productive environment for those who work within its walls.

The tower, though touted as a tourist attraction, is one that can only viewed from afar. Many tour groups and the Hop On, Hop Off buses offer it as a stopping point on their circuits, however, it is not open to the general public…such a waste as I had once read that it had intended to offer an observation deck. Views of the city from this location would have been unparalleled. However, even viewing it from the outside, it is still a landmark that cannot be missed. Go on a clear, blue-sky day and you won’t be disappointed with how beautiful it stands out against the heavens.

And, at night, check its location against the skyline to get your bearings…but seeing the luminous beauty of this water tower is even more wonderful!

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Torre Glòries (Torre Agbar)

http://www.torreagbar.com/
Address: Avinguda Diagonal, 211, 08018 Barcelona, Spain
Hours: Not open to the public
Admission: Not open to the public
Getting There: Metro stop, Glòries.

Jail Time in Pedraza

How many years had it been since I visited Madrid?

Two or three at least.

As much as my tired body wanted to sleep the afternoon away, the city that I had missed all that time, was beckoning. After a small nap, I met up with a local friend of mine that I had planned to spend the afternoon with. She explained that she had wanted to take me to Real Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial, the burial site of Spanish kings and queens, but it was Monday and she was dismayed to find that it was closed, as many things are in Spain on Mondays.

In a bit of a panic, especially when she learned that I had nothing else in mind, she made a quick call to her brother. What to do? What to do?

Pedraza.

Jumping into her car, we headed out of the city and onto the highway. About an hour and a half later, we were pulling into the walled city.

Located in the province of Segovia, the small medieval town of approximately 500 residents, has retained its old world style. Porticoes, old stone houses, and cobblestone streets stand in stark contrast to the modern, metropolis of nearby Madrid and it has been described as one of the most beautiful small towns in Spain.

We parked our car and made our way past small hotels, shops and residences into the Plaza Mayor, which was mostly quiet except for a couple of other small tourist groups. Heading to the main restaurant, we ordered beers and tapas and took a seat outside in the late afternoon sunshine.

I can honestly say, I don’t know I’ve ever experienced something so serene, so simplistic and so historic. It truly felt as though we were enjoying our beverages and food on a movie set. It is here, in the square, that the town holds the Concierto de las Velas festival during La Noche de las Velas in July, where the residents of the town light candles along the streets and in their residences and multiple concerts are held featuring varying types of Spanish classical music.

Feeling rejuvenated, we headed up the dirt road toward the Pedraza Castle, passing the church and its bell tower topped with a huge stork’s nest.

Though the castle was closed, we were able to walk around the exterior and take pictures of the sturdy structure. Acquired by painter Ignacio Zuloaga, in 1925, the purchase cemented the artist’s love of the area that his artistic eye always desired to capture.

The original building dated back to the days of the Romans and was an impenetrable fortress that housed the sons of Francis I, King of France after his signing of the “Treaty of Madrid”. So that Francis I kept his word, his sons, aged 11 and 10 were kept in the castle under the Emperor’s orders until their ransom was paid.

Today, the castle is still owned by the Zuloaga family and can be visited if the family is not in residence.

We continued our walk through the town and found ourselves at the impressive gate. Nearby was a doorway and it appeared to be welcoming guests. The Carcel de la Villa, or jail, was located in the “Tower” and had several rooms in which prisoners were kept. We paid our entrance fee, however, since I did not speak fluent Spanish, we opted to skip the guided tour. We were given a written guide and moved through the space on our own, learning about its unique history on two levels, the upper, reserved for smaller delinquents and the basement, for dangerous criminals.

We walked back through the gate and made our way on the outside of the town’s walls and to our waiting car.

Though it was a weekday and much quieter than when heavier crowds descend on the town on the weekends, it was a wonderful and unique way to spend the fall afternoon. The historic city walls were beautiful and the restored buildings remarkably perfected. Spending the night in one of the old hotels could be an unparalleled adventure while continuing on to Segovia the next day.

Just make sure to take a good look at the picturesque city from afar…a place of beauty…as Zuloaga once attested.

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Pedraza Castle

http://museoignaciozuloaga.com/es/
Address: Calle Real 5, 40172, Pedraza
Hours: Open all year from Wednesday to Sunday. Summer, 1100-1400 and 1700-2000. Winter, 1600-1800. The visit consists of the Patio “Entre Muros”, “Patio de Armas” and “Museo en Torre Norte” with works by Ignacio Zuloaga and Decorative Arts. The Museum in the Tower is available for visitation on the first Friday on each month, by reservation and presents the private rooms and studio of Zuloaga and other masters as well as objects of great value.
Admission: Adults, 6€, Children under 10, free
Getting There: By car (recommended), it takes approximately one and a half hours. By bus, take an hourly bus from Madrid Moncloa to Segovia. The bus only runs from Segovia to Pedraza on certain days, so check the schedule. Total travel time, 2 hours and 38 minutes. By train, from Madrid-Chamartin station, take the train to Segovia Guiomar. Transfer to the number 11 bus to Plaza Artilleria (20 minutes). Walk approximately 8 minutes to bus stop to Pedraza for the twenty-eight minute ride. Total travel time, 3 hours and 18 minutes

Carcel de la Villa

https://www.pedraza.net/carcel-de-la-villa/
Address: Calle Real 15, 40172 Pedraza, Spain
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 1100-1400 and 1600-1900. Sunday, 1130-1400. Closed January 1, September 9 and December 25.
Admission: Adults, 3€

Your “Go-To” Gaudi

Gaudí.

Ever hear of him?

You can’t go anywhere in Barcelona without hearing the name Gaudí. However, if you are an architecture buff, you should be well-versed in his work.

The Catalonian architect, influenced by his passions in life…architecture, nature and religion…is most beloved in his home country. Taking a look at any of his works, it is evident that his passions are always displayed in his one-of-a-kind style. Many of his works are located in Barcelona…Casa Milà, Casa Battló, Casa Vincens, Palau Güell, Colonia Güell, Torre Bellesguard, Casa Calvet, Colegio Teresiano de Barcelona. The ones that most tourists come to see, however, are the still-incomplete, Sagrada Familia and Parque Güell, a park filled with architectural elements surrounded by lush gardens.

Having been to many of his installations, I decided that one of them was worthy of another visit, especially on the beautiful, sunny afternoon.

Years ago, I visited Parque Güell and wandered around for hours without paying to enter. Perusing the website, I noticed that admission was now being charged, seemingly to limit the large number of visitors to the park at one time. Purchasing a timed admission, I jumped on the bus and headed toward the park.

Parque Güell was built between 1900 and 1914 and was conceived by Count Eusebi Güell and designed by Antoni Gaudí with the idea of it being a park within a natural park. Within this park, they wanted to introduce a group of high-quality homes influenced by symbolism and modernism. These homes were to be outfitted with the latest technological advancements and not only be comfortable, but display an artistic attitude.

Officially opened as a park in 1926, on Carmel Hill in the neighborhood of La Salut, the park incorporated a large country home, Larrard House, which Count Güell moved into, hoping to add prestige to the community. Sixty triangular lots were available for the construction of the luxury homes, however, only two houses were ever built, neither by Gaudí. One, by Francesc Berenguer, was intended as a show house, but upon its completion in 1904, no buyers came forward. Gaudí purchased the home and lived there from 1906 until 1926. Today, the house, La Torre Rosa, operates as a museum within the park and was declared a historical artistic monument of national interest.

As I entered the park and wandered through the fantastical pavilions, I noticed that although there was ticket booth near the gates, no one was asking for tickets as I walked through the gates and through the park. Getting ready to enter La Torre Rosa, I suddenly realized that the ticket I had purchased online was for the Monumental Zone, the area at the main entrance, the terrace and the parts containing the mosaics. Realizing that my entrance time was valid for the Monumental Zone for only twenty more minutes, I explained my dilemma and asked if I could return to visit the museum.

Quickly making my way to the Monumental Zone area, I was able to enter on the terrace level, however, due to construction, the famous mosaic bench was partially closed. Still, elbowing my way through the crowded area, I was able to sit for a few minutes and enjoy the beautiful architectural element. The stairway with the Gaudí dragon fountain was also filled with visitors, each hoping to capture a picture with the iconic piece of sculpture. The two buildings flanking the entrance, each with unusual pinnacles and fantastically shaped roofs give the impression of gingerbread houses and one offers a permanent exhibition of the Barcelona City History Museum which focuses on the building itself, the park and the city.

After completing my Monumental Zone visit, I returned to La Torre Rosa, enjoying the amazing building filled with Gaudí’s captivating furniture and a fascinating film on the conception of the park.

Parque Güell is truly a place of tranquility, yet, fascination. As you walk through the lush gardens, you can almost imagine yourself to be in a fantastical dream. Take your time to enjoy each area of the park and if you see one of the many musical performers that spend time entertaining visitors, stop and relish in their music. The acoustics in some of the spaces are amazing! Also, don’t forget to make your way to the park’s highest point, marked with a large cross, for a phenomenal view of the city with both the Sagrada Familia and the Montjuic area visible in the distance. Lastly, make sure to keep your eyes open for the amazing wildlife that makes the park their home. Scour the trees for a variety of birds, most notably, non-native parrots and short-toed eagles, that reside in the area.

With so many of Gaudí’s works to see in Barcelona, it is extremely hard to choose which to visit first! However, if you find yourself with clear, bright skies and are tired of being indoors, Parque Güell is your go-to!

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Parque Güell

https://www.parkguell.cat/
Address: 08024 Barcelona, Spain
Hours: January 1-March 24 and October 28-December 31, 0830-1815, March 25-April 29, 0800-2030, April 30-August 26, 0800-2130, August 27-October 27, 0800-2030
Admission: Online Prices, Adults, €7,50, Children 0-6 years, free, Children 7-12 years, €5,25, Over 65 years, €5,25. Ticket office prices, Adults, €8,50, Children 0-6 years, free, Children 7-12 years, €6,00, Over 65 years, €6,00.
Getting There: Park Güell is off Carrer d’Olot in Barcelona and has three entrances: one on Carrer de Larrard (main entrance), one at Carretera del Carmel, nº 23, where there is also the coach park for tourist coaches, and a third on Passatge de Sant Josep de la Muntanya, which you get to by going up an escalator. By Metro: You can take the Metro to Lesseps or Vallcarca stations and walk, approximately 20 minutes. By Bus: Lines H6, D40, 24 and 92. From the bus stop on Travessera de Dalt (lines H6 and D40), it takes 10 minutes on foot, and we would recommend going either to the Carrer Sant Josep de la Muntanya, which has an escalator, or Carrer de Larrard entrance. From the bus stop on Plaça Catalunya (line 24-Paral·lel/El Carmel) it points along Passeig de Gracia to Carretera Carmel-Park Güell stop, wich is one of the main entrances to the Park, near the top of the hill. From the bus stop Trelawny-Passeig Marítim, the line 92 (Pg. Marítim – Av. Tibidabo) points along Sagrada Familia and Hospital de Sant Pau, and stops at Carretera del Carmel-Park Güell in front of one of the Park’s main entrance. By Tourist Bus or Barcelona City Tour: From the Bus Turístic (blue line) the stop is “Park Güell”. From the Barcelona City Tour, the route is “East” (green colour) and the stop is also “Park Güell”. In both cases, the stop is located on Avinguda de la Mare de Déu de Montserrat, it takes 10 minutes on foot, and we would recommend the entrance on Carretera del Carmel through Av. Pompeu Fabra.

See Food!

If you are in Barcelona, near the Sagrada Familia and looking for a quiet, peaceful dining experience…stop reading…STOP READING…this is not the place for you!

A good friend of mine started a great Facebook page, Restaurants and Hotels Around The Globe…helpful to those of us who travel and are looking for fabulous places to eat and stay. The day before I was to be in Barcelona, she was there on a layover and posted about La Paradeta, a seafood restaurant near Sagreda Familia that she had dined in that evening. Since I had planned to visit Sagrada Familia on this particular trip, I decided that I would book my ticket in the latter part of the afternoon. The dinner hour starts very late in Barcelona with many restaurants not opening until 8:00 pm…it would put me in that location at the right time.

Locating Passage Simó on my map, I headed that way around 7:45 pm, thinking that I would be a bit early but would be first in line. This way, I would be able to finish dinner a bit early. After being up all night, I was quite tired and wanted to get back to my hotel to get some rest! Hmmm…everyone must have had the same idea!

When I approached the restaurant’s location, I noticed that a line had already formed. As I took my place at the end (I was number 15), I realized that this place must be quite popular! A very good sign indeed!

As the door was unlocked and raised at 8:00 pm, we entered and was confronted with a large, iced counter containing many different types of fresh seafood…lobsters, razor clams, squid, tuna, oysters, cuttlefish, crabs, scallops, crayfish… and each type was priced by the piece, pack or kilo. It was wonderful to be able to see everything that was offered and to be able to select the exact pieces and amounts that you would like.

After giving my order to the attendant, I was given a number and proceeded to the register where I gave my numbered slip and drink order. While I paid for my order (€30 for 4 raw oysters, 10 razor clams, tuna steak, salad and a large beer), I was instructed to take a seat and to listen for my number to be called from the adjacent window.

Enjoying my raw oysters while listening for my number, I decided that if you were dining with others and trying to carry on a conversation, it would be quite difficult. The woman at the window was yelling out table numbers in both Spanish and English, continually, in addition to the loud chatter of the other diners.

“MESA NUMERO SIETE! Table number seven”. Oh, good, I could quit concentrating on her heavily accented announcements…my food was ready!

Walking up to the counter, I discovered that only my salad was ready at this time. She check off the salad from my ticket, gave it back to me along with a huge plate, loaded with lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers and olives…definitely enough for two people.

Relishing my salad and beer, I tried to relax, all the while, training my ear for numero siete. Finally, my number was called and I returned to my table with a plate filled with razor clams and tuna. I have to admit, I have never had razor clams, but they were extremely tasty. The tuna was cooked a bit more than I like but was juicy, tender and delicious.

Finally, sensing that my table would soon be needed, I carried my tray and plates to the other window as I was instructed to earlier. Filled and happy, I headed back to my hotel for a much needed night of rest.

If you are looking for a place to relax and have a nice dinner with great conversation, you should look to another of the many fabulous places in Barcelona. But…if you are looking for freshly prepared and delicious seafood in a busy, raucous environment, this is the place for you! Affordable and easy to order and pay, the system’s method does help when in a group as everyone can pay for their own bill. There are six other locations throughout the city…Meridiana, Passeig de Gracia, Paral-lel, Born, Sants and Sitges for your convenience with the Sagrada Familia location being the largest.

Definitely enjoying my meal enough to return on another occasion, my only question left unanswered was, “With so many people constantly in line and at the register, how do you get another beer???”

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La Paradeta Sagrada Familia

http://www.laparadeta.com/en/
Address: Passatge Simó 18, 08025 Barcelona
Hours: Monday, closed. Tuesday-Sunday, 1300-1600, Tuesday-Thursday, 2000-2230, Friday-Sunday, 2000-0000
How To Get There: Metro, L2 or L5 lines, Sagrada Familia station

Unfinished Business

The late Antoni Gaudi has some unfinished business in Barcelona. An unfinished church…Sagrada Familia. Ever hear of it?

About three or four years ago, in order to accommodate my family’s busy schedule, I decided to work a trip that flew over the Mother’s Day weekend. Only the second time that I had ever been away from my children on the holiday, I decided that I was going to make the most of my day and find something extra-special to occupy my time in Barcelona.

Deciding to visit the Sagrada Familia, the preeminent masterpiece of architect Antoni Gaudi, in the Catalan city, I planned to spend my afternoon gazing upon the unfinished beauty of this magnificent church. Having studied architecture, I was touched by its complexity, references to nature and combination of Gothic and Art Nouveau styles. The fact that it had recently passed the midpoint of its completion enamored me further. Knowing that I would have to come again and again before its expected completion date of 2026 was okay…I could follow its progression.

Spending another day in Barcelona recently, I decided that it was time to re-visit Sagrada Familia to see how much it had evolved over the last few years. During that last visit, I had walked up to the church, waited in line, purchased my ticket and walked right in. Things were a bit different this time. Once I arrived at the hotel, I logged into the Sagrada Familia website and purchased a ticket. Since all tickets are for timed access, I was lucky to be able to purchase a ticket for a 5:30 pm entry. This was perfect. I could sleep a bit late, make my way in that direction and still be done by dinner.

It was a beautiful, sunny day as I walked in the direction of the one of the most famous Roman Catholic churches in the world, one, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. Although construction began in 1882 and is still continuing, the church was consecrated and proclaimed a minor basilica by Pope Benedict XVI in 2010.

Finding large numbers of tourists milling around the perimeter of the church, I made my way to the entrance and presented my ticket at the northeast side of the institution. Walking up the stairway, I had to take care to carefully make each step as I could not keep from gazing upward at the intricate carvings making up the Nativity facade which is flanked by four spire-like bell towers.

Once in the interior of the church, my gaze was immediately drawn upward. The vaulting of the ceiling in the apse is spectacular and something I have never seen in any other church as well as the forest of exclusive columns grown from the imagination of its architect. These columns were under construction during my last visit, but now stand tall, proud and almost treelike.

The choir loft is especially colorful late in the afternoon when the sun is low and the colors from the legions of stained glass windows are cast upon the walls. I suspect that during each part of the day, the church maintains a unique look relative to the illumination of the sun and its position.

Work is currently being done in the chancel and the area is cordoned off restricting a continual view of the space. The Crucifixion of Christ, the Expressionist bronze sculpture by Carlos Mani, which hangs above the high altar, however, is still visible above the construction walls.

Walking around the the rear of the altar, you will find the entry to the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and Penitence, a space reserved for worship and contemplation and the location of Gaudi’s tomb. During my visit, I was unable to navigate this space as a private baptismal ceremony was being conducted. Here, you will also find the pipes of the grand organ than fills the space with its melody.

Should you wish to attend a service in the basilica, do not expect regularly scheduled masses as you would in other basilicas. Throughout the year, occasional masses are held which are open to the general public, though an invitation must be held to attend. Information when available can be obtained from the website.

The towers’ entry points are from lifts in the interior of the church. Since a separate ticket is required, I was unable to visit as no tickets were available when I purchased my entry earlier in the day. Six new towers will be added before the anticipated completion in 2026, with the tallest being 564 feet, making it the tallest religious structure in Europe. When finished, there will be a total of 18 towers, 12 being on three facades, the Nativity facade, the Passion facade and the Glory facade. An additional four towers will represent the four evangelists and will surround the largest middle tower, dedicated to Jesus Christ. The final tower dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary will be over the apse.
After exiting the church on the opposite side, turn around and set your eyes on the Facade of the Suffering Way. Not as detailed as the Nativity facade, this facade is expressionistic and modern. Gaudi once said that if he had started construction with this facade, people would have distanced themselves from his work.

After walking to the right, you can visit Gaudi’s workshop and the museum.

As with the interior of the basilica, light affects how you view the structure. Before you enter the Sagrada Familia, take time to walk around the entire structure and examine all four sides (though two are still under construction). After your exit, walk around again, I promise, things will look different as the sun changes direction and the type of light is casts. Truly a thing of beauty!

With about sixty-five percent of the Sagrada Familia finished, the completion date is planned to coincide with the hundred year anniversary of Gaudi’s death. The present chief architect is Jordi Fauli, who leads a team of forty construction workers. He is the ninth generation of architects to lead the construction of the basilica and is expected to be the final architect bringing alive the dreams and imagination of Antoini Gaudi.

Glad that I had taken the time to revisit this architectural phenomenon, my plans are to come back every three of four years until its completion. Next time, hopefully the towers will be on my agenda and I will experience all of the new renovations and additions that are in store. If you happen to find yourself in Barcelona, make sure to plan accordingly and see this amazing work of art!

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Sagrada Familia

http://www.sagradafamilia.org/en/
Carrer de Mallorca, 401, 08013 Barcelona, Spain
Hours: November to February, 0900-1800, March, 0900-1900, April to September, 0900-2000, October, 0900-1900, December 25, 26, January 1 and 6, 0900-1400.
Admission: Tickets may be purchased online (recommended) or at the ticket counter if available. Sale of tickets finished 15 minutes before closing time.
Option 1: Entry ticket, audioguide and towers, 29€
Option 2: Entry ticket, audioguide and Gaudi House Museum (Park Guell) 24€
Option 3: Entry ticket and guided tour, 24€
Option 4: Entry ticket and audioguide, 22€
Option 5: Entry ticket, 15€
Getting There: Metro: Lines 2 and 5. Sagrada Familia Station

Alluring Alaire

While on Roof Terrace at Casa Milà in Barcelona, we spied what appeared to be a lovely rooftop bar further down Passeig de Gràcia. After we departed La Pedrera, we headed down the street, entered the lobby and ascended the elevator in the Hotel Condes de Barcelona.

Lobby4 — View of hotel atrium from elevator

Entering Alaire Terrace Bar, we decided to sit outside to admire the astounding views of the immediate and surrounding areas of Barcelona. Down the street, there was Casa Milà and up another, Sagrada Familia.

View of Casa Milà down Passeig de Gràcia

A very nice drink menu offered cocktails, wines, champagne and beer. Prices were a little higher than in other places, but that was to be expected, as with all nice rooftop bars in good locations. A light tapas and food menu was also presented.

The rooftop atmosphere was energetic, yet relaxing, with many seating options. The service was very good and my drink option, beer, was very cold and tasty.

Since the afternoon was dwindling and the wind had picked up a bit, we decided to move indoors to enjoy our second drink, which was also a nice space with a large glass wall looking out onto the terrace.

All in all, our experience at Alaire was a very good one and I would recommend traveling up to the top of the Condes de Barcelona hotel if you are in the area. Enjoy a drink, enjoy an appetizer and enjoy the view!

Alaire Terrace Bar

Address: C/ Passeig de Gràcia, 73 8a Planta 08008 Barcelona
Hours: Daily from 12:00 until 2:00 am
Metro: Diagonal

Cloudy and Gaudi

If you love both architecture and Barcelona, you can’t help but think of Antoni Gaudi the Spanish Catalan architect, whose work was influenced by the passions in his life, mainly architecture, nature and religion. When in Barcelona, it is an absolute must to see Gaudi’s masterpiece, the Sagrada Familia and interesting to visit Unesco Heritage Sites Parque Guell, Casa Batló and Casa Milà, all designed by Gaudi. (Later this year, Casa Vicens will be open to the public as a museum, as well).

Rain had been in the forecast for Barcelona all week and I had hoped that as the time went on, that maybe the forecast would change for the better. No dice…when we landed, there were raindrops all of over the airplane windows and it was dark and gloomy outside.

Pondering the many things to do in Barcelona, I had originally thought of taking the bus to Parque Guell if the weather was nice. Obviously, this wasn’t going to happen. My second idea was to re-visit Sagrada Familia; it had been three years since I had last toured the impressive church. Definitely worth a second visit, I checked the website for available tickets, however, the only time slot available was 7:00 pm. Not wanting the pressure of trying to squeeze in something before and having to make it there for the admission time, I decided it probably wasn’t the day to do it.

Since Gaudi was on my mind and I had visited Casa Batló last year, Casa Milà caught my eye. Just down the street from Casa Batló on Passeig de Gràcia, it was an easy bus ride from my hotel. And….I would be indoors in the event that the weather was not optimum.

Not raining any longer, but still quite cloudy and threatening, we took the number 7 bus down to Passeig de Gràcia near the Diagonal Metro Station. Disembarking, we walked down the street and proceeded to get in line with the hordes of people that were where we assumed was Casa Milà. Thankfully, I looked up at the building and realized that it looked very familiar. We were not at Casa Milà, but Casa Batló, as we had walked in the wrong direction! Without having wasted much time, we headed in the opposite direction and soon came to the correct destination, Casa Milà. Here, thankfully, there was a very short line and as we stood in the queue, the sky began to clear and we actually saw a bit of sunshine.

Built from 1906 to 1912 as two apartment blocks with separate entrances and linked by two large courtyards, Casa Milà was erected as a family home for Pere Milà i Camps and his wife Roser Segimon i Artells, but with apartments for rent. The building’s facade is compromised of undulating stone with twisting wrought iron balconies and windows. It resembles an open quarry, thus earning the nickname, La Pedrera. Casa Milà was Gaudi’s fourth and final work that he did on Passeig de Gràcia, which was the main avenue of Barcelona at the time.

As we began the long climb up to the top of the building, we passed some of the apartments that share the space. We exited the stairwell onto the Roof Terrace, and were in awe of the sight before us. Many architectural sculptures stood before us which serve the building artistically as well as practically as stairwells, ventilation towers and chimneys. There were many a picture here on the terrace and from the building as the Sagrada Familia and multiple parts of the city could be viewed from here. I learned later that the Roof Terrace closes when it is raining, so we were extremely fortunate that the weather was cooperating at that time…a little cloudy, but overall dry.

The next space to visit, was the Espai Gaudi. This spectacular attic space, with its arched ceiling devotes itself to Gaudi’s work. The 270 catenary arches of various heights support the Roof Terrace and is an amazing display of architectural genius.

The Pedrera Apartment recreates the life of a bourgeois family in Barcelona during the early twentieth century. Located on the fourth floor, the apartment is decorated with period furniture, works of art, ornaments, fabrics and household accessories. Displayed here, not only the way of life during the time period, but the eloquent architecture.

Finally, on the lower level of the building is the Courtyard. Looking up to the open air above where the Roof Terrace is located, this space aids with light and ventilation. Colorful murals adorn the ceilings and walls of the lobbies and main staircase. At the top of the staircase, the Exhibition Hall is located. This main floor was the former residence of the Milà’s and displays the open-floor plan used by Gaudi.

As our visit to La Pedrera was complete, we were shocked to see how much time had passed. So absorbed in the building and all that it offered, we had spent almost three hours taking in this astonishing architecture! An interesting way to spend an afternoon, we learned that we could return at another time to experience Casa Milà by Night which offers multiple projections in the stairwells and Passeig de Gràcia Courtyard as well as an extraordinary audiovisual show on the Roof Terrace. Truly a remarkable, well-rounded experience!

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Casa Milà “La Pedrera”

https://www.lapedrera.com/ca/home
Address: Passeig de Gràcia, 92. 08008, Barcelona
Hours: Monday to Sunday, 9:00 to 20:30
Hours: La Pedrera by Night, Monday to Sunday, 21:00 to 23:00
Admission: La Pedrera by Day, Adults, 20.50€, Students, 16.50€, Children (7-12), 10.25€, Children (under 7), free. Includes audio guide.
Admission: La Pedrera by Day and Night, Adults, 39.50€, Children (7-12), 19.75€, Children (under 7), free. Includes audio guide.
Admission: La Pedrera Premium, Adults, 27.00€, Children (7-12), 10.25€, Children (under 7), free. Includes guide book, audio guide and premium admission with no waiting.
How to get there: Bus, 7, 16, 17, 24 and V17. Metro, lines 3 and 5, station Diagonal. FGC, Provença-La Pedrera. RENFE, Passeig de Gràcia

Palacio Real de Madrid

Sad and disappointed at having been turned away at the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales, finding an alternative way to occupy my afternoon was now a priority.

Having been in Madrid many times, I knew that both the Opera House or Teatro Real and the Royal Palace were a short walk from my location. Heading first to the Teatro Real and remembering once having to return for the tour, as it is conducted at predetermined times, I decided bypass this attraction. Continuing my walk, I ventured through the Plaza de Oriente to the Palacio Real de Madrid.

Standing on the site of the former Alcazar of Madrid, a medieval fortress transformed into a lavish palace by John II, Charles V and Phillip II, who in 1561 made it the official residence of the Spanish Monarchy, the current building’s construction began in 1738. With the completion in 1751, Charles III was the first ruler to install his court within the palace in 1764. Although, now presently the official residence of the Spanish Royal Family in the city of Madrid, the palace is only used for state ceremonies. King Felipe VI and the Royal Family choose to reside in the Palacio de la Zarzuela on the outskirts of Madrid.

After entering the security checkpoint and purchasing your ticket, you enter the Plaza de la Armeria. Standing in this vast courtyard, you are rewarded with spectacular views of the palace and the Catedral de la Almudena directly across and outside the palace gates.

Upon entering the palace, a turn to the right encounters the Grand Staircase, composed of a single piece of San Agustin marble and graced by two lions on the landing. Glancing upward, the magnificent frescoes on the ceiling, by Corrado Giaquinto, and depicting the Religion Protected by Spain takes one’s breath away. Before climbing the stairway, take a minute to glace back at the statue of Charles III in Romantoga.

“Religion Protected by Spain”, ceiling frescoe by Corrado Giaquinto

The tour is self-guided and takes you through many elaborately embellished chambers, including King Charles III’s Apartments, the Queen’s Apartment’s and Banqueting hall, Apartments of Infante Luis, including the Musical Instruments Room, The Royal Chapel and the Crown Room.

Apartments of Luis Infante, Musical Instruments Room

Photos are allowed when entering and on the Grand Staircase, however, are not allowed throughout the first floor and is strictly enforced. Having mastered the art of sneaking a few shots, I was able to get a few photos within some of the rooms using my iPhone.

After your tour of the main palace is complete, walk out to the back of the palace and gaze upon the Campo del Moro Gardens and the exquisite view beyond. The gardens here are so named because in 1109, during an attempted reconquest of Madrid, Muslim leader Ali ben Yusuf, allegedly camped here with his troops.

Continue walking to the front right corner of the premises, while facing Catedral de la Almudena, and enter the Real Armeria or the Royal Armory. The armory is considered one of the world’s best, housing pieces from as early as the 13th century. Tournament pieces made for Charles V and Philip II and full armor and weapons that Emperor Charles V used in the Battle of Muhlberg are the highlights of the collection.

Quite glad that I noticed the small Royal Armory sign before I left the palace, I had curiously ventured over to this corner of the Plaza de la Armeria. Worth taking the time to enter, it was something that my son and I had missed a couple of years ago. Again, pictures are not allowed in these quarters and it is an extreme shame, as there are a vast number of beautiful pieces.

The Palacio de Real Madrid is an historic part of the city and certainly a must-see on a visit to Madrid. Combine it with a visit to the Teatro Real, the Monastery de las Descalzas or the Catedral de Almudena, all within the same area. Take a few minutes to wander through the adjacent Plaza de Oriente, admiring the fountain and the many statues nestles within the gardens. And lastly, combine it with a nice meal at the many restaurants located in the area or at the nearby Plaza Mayor, maybe stopping to browse at some of the local’s artwork that line the street. All in all, much history and culture can be experienced in this one area of the city.

Metro stop nearest to Teatro Real and Palace

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Palacio de Real Madrid

http://www.patrimonionacional.es/en/real-sitio/palacios/6039
Calle de Bailén, s/n, 28071 Madrid, Spain
Hours: Royal Palace, October-March, 10:00-18:00, April-September, 10:00-20:00. Ticket office closes and last entry one hour prior to posted closing.
Hours: Campo Del Moro, October-March, 10:00-18:00, April-September, 10:00-20:00
Admission: €10, children under 5 years, free
Metro: Lines 5 and 2, Opera Station.

No Senora! Es Completo!

“Mom, can you sign this paper, quick, before you leave?” (as I walk out the door hurriedly to make a flight for which I am already running behind)

“Mom, I need a poster for a project tomorrow!” (while stores are closing in 10 minutes)

We’ve all been there…moms and dads. Our children all seem to catch us at the last minute, while we have about thirty things going on, when what they are asking for should have and could have been taken care of previously when we had more time to do it.

The night before my Madrid trip, there were about ten things on my list that needed to be taken care of…planning my visit to the Monastery de las Descalzas Reales during my Madrid layover, packing, cooking dinner, finishing up a blog post, ordering new uniforms…just to name a few. I am accustomed to my children accosting me with these requests, but here was my husband…

“I need a head and shoulders shot done for tomorrow.” Sensing that he was asking me to do it for him, I actually pretended not to hear since I was in the middle of simultaneously ordering uniform pieces and cooking dinner.

After dinner, sitting behind my computer upstairs (where I had gone to hide and finish up some work), my husband came into the office and said once again, “I need a head and shoulders shot done for tomorrow.” Me. “I really don’t have time right now.” Him. “It will only take two minutes.” Me. “Nothing takes two minutes.” Him. “Fine, I’ll take a selfie!” Me. “What exactly is this for?” Him. “My company’s website. Never mind. I’ll do it myself.” (as he storms off)

Frustrated, I went to get my camera, which required unpacking everything in my tote bag (which was all packed for work the next day). Trying out a few backgrounds, we began to have a difficult time with lighting. Finally, after we thought that we had a picture that would be appropriate, he flippantly said, “Okay, just send that wirelessly from your camera to my phone.” Well, in theory, that would have been the way to go, but in actuality, I haven’t had the time to figure out that function yet. So, in order to get to his picture, I was going to have to insert the SD card into my computer, which would then begin to download approximately 1500 photos, which I really hadn’t wanted to do. So, by now, you’ve probably guessed, we are way beyond two minutes.

He then suggests, while the 1500 photos are being downloaded to my computer, that we try a couple of photos on his iPhone. So, after another ten minutes, this is completed and I’ve edited them to his liking. Wouldn’t you know…”I think I’ll use one of these from the iPhone…I like these better.” (while my computer is still downloading photos…hrmph!)

Off I go, to repack my camera and everything else back into my tote bag.

Arriving in Madrid, I found the weather to be not optimum. A little rainy and dreary, but always having an umbrella, I decided that the Monastery was still on my to do list for that day. As I would be visiting, I would be inside, after all.

Navigating my way through the subway system, I finally arrived at the Sol metro stop. Making a pit stop at the Pandora store, I then glanced at my map and turned the corner, knowing that I was heading in the right direction for the monastery. As I turned the next corner, I stopped to take a quick picture of a doorway and statues that caught my eye and with a quick glance to the right, I noticed people lining up to another doorway. Oh! The Monastery…that was easy. Glancing at my watch, I noticed that it did not open for 20 minutes. I snapped a few pictures and then took a look at my camera screen to see what I had captured…no pictures! Gasp! I realized that my SD card was still sitting in my computer…at home!

Frantically, I glanced around, looking for a store that might sell SD cards. I ran back to Calle de Preciados, remembering a FNAC on the corner near the Pandora store. Instructed by an associate to go to the bottom level, I found an SD card, paid for it and ran back to Monastery de las Descalzas Reales and took my place in the line, breathing a sigh of relief. It was exactly four o’clock and the monastery was just opening.

The line began to move forward and suddenly, I had a thought. What if there is a capacity limit? Oh, no, there aren’t that many people here in this line, I thought, but the idea implanted itself in my head and I began to worry (possibly because in my research I had read this tidbit of information?). The line continued to move forward and I began to get excited for my visit. After a couple more minutes, I noticed the two people that had just stepped into the doorway, exit and walk down the sidewalk. The next two people did the same. Oh no! The couple in front of me was turned away as well. Realizing what was happening, I hoped that maybe since I was a party of one, I could talk my way in.

Mustering my courage, I stepped into the doorway and was told that the capacity for the afternoon had been reached. “Not even for one person?” I almost begged. “No senora, es completo. Come back tomorrow.”

I cannot write the names that I called my husband that minute! Had he not asked me to take those picture for him, I would have never taken the SD card out of my camera, I would have been in the line 20 minutes sooner and would have currently been inside of the Monastery, admiring religious artifacts. Finally, I calmed down, took a breath and realized that it is me and only me who is responsible for my camera equipment. Next time, I will check (and double check) that batteries are charged and SD cards are present!

As I sat on the little stone wall, I took a moment, and glanced around realizing that the rain had stopped and the sun was peeking out from behind the clouds. I admired the architecture of the monastery and the beauty of the plaza around me. Reaching into the bag, I pulled out my map and moved on to plan B. I may have not had a SD card, but when it comes to sightseeing, I always have Plan B…and Plan C…and sometimes Plan D!!!

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales

http://www.patrimonionacional.es/en/real-sitio/monasterios/8291
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday: 10:00-14:00 and 16:00-18:30, Sundays and public holidays: 10:00-15:00, closed Mondays
Admission: €6
Address: Plaza de las Descalzas, s/n, 28013 Madrid, Spain
Line 3, 25, 39 and 148 Station: Ópera. Lines 2, 5 and Ramal Ópera-Príncipe Pío