history – Page 27 – Snapping The Globe

Unfinished Business

The late Antoni Gaudi has some unfinished business in Barcelona. An unfinished church…Sagrada Familia. Ever hear of it?

About three or four years ago, in order to accommodate my family’s busy schedule, I decided to work a trip that flew over the Mother’s Day weekend. Only the second time that I had ever been away from my children on the holiday, I decided that I was going to make the most of my day and find something extra-special to occupy my time in Barcelona.

Deciding to visit the Sagrada Familia, the preeminent masterpiece of architect Antoni Gaudi, in the Catalan city, I planned to spend my afternoon gazing upon the unfinished beauty of this magnificent church. Having studied architecture, I was touched by its complexity, references to nature and combination of Gothic and Art Nouveau styles. The fact that it had recently passed the midpoint of its completion enamored me further. Knowing that I would have to come again and again before its expected completion date of 2026 was okay…I could follow its progression.

Spending another day in Barcelona recently, I decided that it was time to re-visit Sagrada Familia to see how much it had evolved over the last few years. During that last visit, I had walked up to the church, waited in line, purchased my ticket and walked right in. Things were a bit different this time. Once I arrived at the hotel, I logged into the Sagrada Familia website and purchased a ticket. Since all tickets are for timed access, I was lucky to be able to purchase a ticket for a 5:30 pm entry. This was perfect. I could sleep a bit late, make my way in that direction and still be done by dinner.

It was a beautiful, sunny day as I walked in the direction of the one of the most famous Roman Catholic churches in the world, one, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. Although construction began in 1882 and is still continuing, the church was consecrated and proclaimed a minor basilica by Pope Benedict XVI in 2010.

Finding large numbers of tourists milling around the perimeter of the church, I made my way to the entrance and presented my ticket at the northeast side of the institution. Walking up the stairway, I had to take care to carefully make each step as I could not keep from gazing upward at the intricate carvings making up the Nativity facade which is flanked by four spire-like bell towers.

Once in the interior of the church, my gaze was immediately drawn upward. The vaulting of the ceiling in the apse is spectacular and something I have never seen in any other church as well as the forest of exclusive columns grown from the imagination of its architect. These columns were under construction during my last visit, but now stand tall, proud and almost treelike.

The choir loft is especially colorful late in the afternoon when the sun is low and the colors from the legions of stained glass windows are cast upon the walls. I suspect that during each part of the day, the church maintains a unique look relative to the illumination of the sun and its position.

Work is currently being done in the chancel and the area is cordoned off restricting a continual view of the space. The Crucifixion of Christ, the Expressionist bronze sculpture by Carlos Mani, which hangs above the high altar, however, is still visible above the construction walls.

Walking around the the rear of the altar, you will find the entry to the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and Penitence, a space reserved for worship and contemplation and the location of Gaudi’s tomb. During my visit, I was unable to navigate this space as a private baptismal ceremony was being conducted. Here, you will also find the pipes of the grand organ than fills the space with its melody.

Should you wish to attend a service in the basilica, do not expect regularly scheduled masses as you would in other basilicas. Throughout the year, occasional masses are held which are open to the general public, though an invitation must be held to attend. Information when available can be obtained from the website.

The towers’ entry points are from lifts in the interior of the church. Since a separate ticket is required, I was unable to visit as no tickets were available when I purchased my entry earlier in the day. Six new towers will be added before the anticipated completion in 2026, with the tallest being 564 feet, making it the tallest religious structure in Europe. When finished, there will be a total of 18 towers, 12 being on three facades, the Nativity facade, the Passion facade and the Glory facade. An additional four towers will represent the four evangelists and will surround the largest middle tower, dedicated to Jesus Christ. The final tower dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary will be over the apse.
After exiting the church on the opposite side, turn around and set your eyes on the Facade of the Suffering Way. Not as detailed as the Nativity facade, this facade is expressionistic and modern. Gaudi once said that if he had started construction with this facade, people would have distanced themselves from his work.

After walking to the right, you can visit Gaudi’s workshop and the museum.

As with the interior of the basilica, light affects how you view the structure. Before you enter the Sagrada Familia, take time to walk around the entire structure and examine all four sides (though two are still under construction). After your exit, walk around again, I promise, things will look different as the sun changes direction and the type of light is casts. Truly a thing of beauty!

With about sixty-five percent of the Sagrada Familia finished, the completion date is planned to coincide with the hundred year anniversary of Gaudi’s death. The present chief architect is Jordi Fauli, who leads a team of forty construction workers. He is the ninth generation of architects to lead the construction of the basilica and is expected to be the final architect bringing alive the dreams and imagination of Antoini Gaudi.

Glad that I had taken the time to revisit this architectural phenomenon, my plans are to come back every three of four years until its completion. Next time, hopefully the towers will be on my agenda and I will experience all of the new renovations and additions that are in store. If you happen to find yourself in Barcelona, make sure to plan accordingly and see this amazing work of art!

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Sagrada Familia

http://www.sagradafamilia.org/en/
Carrer de Mallorca, 401, 08013 Barcelona, Spain
Hours: November to February, 0900-1800, March, 0900-1900, April to September, 0900-2000, October, 0900-1900, December 25, 26, January 1 and 6, 0900-1400.
Admission: Tickets may be purchased online (recommended) or at the ticket counter if available. Sale of tickets finished 15 minutes before closing time.
Option 1: Entry ticket, audioguide and towers, 29€
Option 2: Entry ticket, audioguide and Gaudi House Museum (Park Guell) 24€
Option 3: Entry ticket and guided tour, 24€
Option 4: Entry ticket and audioguide, 22€
Option 5: Entry ticket, 15€
Getting There: Metro: Lines 2 and 5. Sagrada Familia Station

Picturesque Phillipsburg

St. Maarten is an island divided between two nations…the French and the Dutch.

The two neighboring countries live in harmony and travel across the border between the two sides is not regulated. In fact, while driving, if you did not encounter the “welcome” signs as you cross the border, you would not realize the change except for the few features that set them apart.

The island was split into two parts after the Treaty of Concordia in 1648. The larger, northern part was granted to France (Saint Martin) and the southern part (St. Maarten) was given to the Netherlands.

Many visitors to St. Maarten arrive by cruise ship which docks at the port in Philipsburg, the island’s capital, founded in 1763, by John Philips, a Scottish naval captain. Visitors enjoy the Dutch side for its casinos and duty-free bargains, art galleries and historic forts, while many visitors flock to the French side for its shops filled with French fashions and imported Gallic goodies as well as its beautiful beaches.

If you are not arriving by cruise ship, a short drive to visit to Philipsburg during your stay is a must as there are many things to see and do.

If you are an architecture lover, you will appreciate the many buildings that line Front Street. As opposed to the French side and its French Colonial and Creole buildings, the colorful half-timbered Dutch houses are the pride of their inhabitants. As you wander along, these buildings give off an air of friendliness and hospitality with their elaborate carvings and wrought iron balconies.

The Courthouse, built is 1793, as the home of Commander John Philips, has served as a court for successive governors, a fire station, a jail and a post office during its long existence in the town. One of the island’s most prominent landmarks, it is easy to spot on the main street. It is owned by the government of St. Maarten and maintains a spot on the list of major historic monuments.

Another building worth noting is St. Martin of Tours Catholic church. While the interior is quite plain, the exterior is bright and Caribbean-like maintains a location facing the beach. Another more impressive church belongs to the Methodists on Front Street. Sometimes referred to as the Old English or Wesleyan Church, it is a beautiful wooden clapboard structure with light blue accents. Built in 1978, it replaced the original church which was built in 1851. The inside is quite interesting with its blue and red accented galleries and wooden walls and ceilings, giving it a ship-like feel.

If you are in the mood to get out of the heat and learn a few things, a couple of museums exist in Philipsburg. The Yoda Guy Movie Exhibit (see my post, “The Yoda Guy”) run by artist and movie effects specialist, Nick Maley, is a fun place for the family and Star Wars fans. The Sint Maarten Museum is a great place to learn about the island’s rich heritage.

Shopper alert!!! There are many duty free options where you can buy a treasure trove of items. St. Maarten, a free port, has no local sales taxes, VAT or other indirect prices. Diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, settings, bands, watches, electronics, perfumes…they are all here. Make sure you do your homework and be prepared to bargain.

Liquor prices on the island are some of the lowest I have ever seen. Many cruise ships will tell you that you can bring back five bottles of liquor per person, however, US customs allows one liter per person.

There is also a stall-type craft market that runs to Front Street. The vendors are extremely friendly, not pushy and willing to bargain. If you say no…they back off, unlike many other islands that I have visited. We did find that venturing into Philipsburg ensured better bargains and of course, less congestion, on days when cruise ships were not in port.

Another thing that I absolutely loved about Philipsburg was Great Bay and the beautiful beach that acts as a border between the many cafes and bars and the pristine, blue water. Tired of walking along Front Street? Take the boardwalk that runs the entire length of the beach. Some in your party don’t want to shop? Get them a chair and an umbrella. They can refine their tans while you shop til you drop! Great Bay and its beautiful beach is very unique and sets it apart from many other Caribbean islands that I have visited.

Whatever you decide to do in Philipsburg…eat, drink, stroll, shop, photograph or tan…you won’t be disappointed. It may be a cruise port, but one with a distinct character that has much to offer.

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Philipsburg

Philipsburg Courthouse, Front Street, Philipsburg, St. Maarten
Philipsburg Craft Market, behind the Courthouse, between Front Street and Back Street
St. Martin of Tours, 51 Front Street, St. Maarten, Voorstraat, Philipsburg, St. Maarten, http://www.catholicchurchsxm.org/
Methodist Church, Front Street, St. Maarten, Philipsburg, Sint Maarten
Yoda Guy Movie Exhibit, 19a Front Street, St. Maarten, http://netdwellers.com/mz/planetp/home.html
Sint Maarten Museum, 7 Front Street, St. Maarten, http://www.museumsintmaarten.org/
Map of Philipsburg, St. Maarten, http://www.caribbean-on-line.com/islands/sm/pbmap.shtml

Cruising Czech-Style

Visiting many sights throughout Prague, you can’t help but cross or walk near the Vltava River. The Vltava is the longest river within the country which runs southeast along the Bohemian Forest and then north across Bohemia, through Český Krumlov, České Budějovice and Prague. It eventually merges with the Elbe river at Melnik and is commonly referred to as the Czech national river.

After spending the day at Karlstejn Castle and our quick trip to the Jerusalem Synagogue, we still had many hours of sunlight left in the day. Quickly stopping at our hotel to freshen up, we then headed north and made our way along the river near the Štefánikův Bridge where the boat companies depart for many different lunch, dinner and sightseeing cruises.

Deciding on Czech Boats, we opted for their one-hour cruise, purchased our tickets and waited for our boat, the Maria.

Soon we were on our way, beers in hand (purchased at the boat’s bar), basking in the sun on the upper deck.

The boat makes its way along the river towards the magnificent Charles Bridge, which it passes under and then turns around for its return voyage. There are many beautiful buildings that line the river and you will be able to get a great view of the Prague Castle.

If you desire more time on the river, there are a multitude of options including lunch, dinner, dessert and jazz cruises. Although the one we selected was not a very long cruise, the one-hour option gives you an great overview of many of the city’s landmarks.

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Czech Boats

http://www.czechboats.cz/
Address: Dvorakovo embankment, pier no. 17 (next to Stefanikuv bridge)
Hours: One hour tours, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 16:00, 17:00
Price: Adults, 220 CZK, Children (3-12 years) 110 CZK

Karlstejn Castle

Last fall, I made the trip to Karlstejn Castle (see Straight From a Fairy Tale, October 2015), the most visited castle in the Czech Republic. Built by Czech king and Roman Emperor Charles IV, it was established as a place to store the royal treasures, collections of holy relics and the crown jewel.

Located in the town of Karlstejn, it makes for a wonderful day trip and is an impressive piece of architecture.

My son loves history and I knew that he would love taking the train, walking through the quaint village and visiting the castle. Not much has changed since my last visit, except that it was much warmer and there were many more tourists.

The Basic Tour of the Private and Representative Halls of the Holy Roman Emperor is still the only one available for walk up guests. The Sacred/Holy Area including the Chapel of the Holy Cross tour must be booked in advance.

Since I had done the Basic Tour, I was a bit disappointed that I could not take the other, however, this time was a bit different. First, our tour guide spoke much better English than the tour guide on our previous trip, so, I was able to absorb more details of the castle’s history. The other thing that changed from before were the rules concerning photography…pictures are now allowed within the castle, on the tour. A welcome change, I was excited not to have to sneak photos when the tour guide was not looking!

Definitely, a must-do on a trip to the Czech Republic, I recommend leaving early from Prague in order to beat the crowds, especially during the busy summer months. Make sure you walk the grounds within the castle’s walls and visit the Clock and Bell Tower and the Well, all included with your tour admission.

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Karlstejn Castle

https://www.hradkarlstejn.cz/en
Address: Karlštejn 172, 267 18 Karlštejn
Hours: Jan 9-Feb 29, closed, March, 0930-1600, April- June, 0930-1700, (Tue-Sun), July 1-August 31, 0900-1830 (Mon-Sun), September, 0930-1730 (Tue-Sun), October, 0930-1630 (Tue-Sun), Nov 1- Nov 13, 1000-1500 (Tue-Sun), Nov 14-Dec 23, 1000-1500 (Sat-Sun), Dec 24-25, closed, Dec 26-Jan 8, 1000-1500 (Mon, Tue-Sun)
Admission: Adults 270 CZK, Students (ages 6-26) and Seniors (over 65), 180 CZK, Family Ticket (2 Adults + 4 Children max) 860 CZK
Getting There: Departures are from the main station, Hlavní nádraží or Smíchov stations, usually about every 30 minutes in the direction of Beroun.

The Stone Bridge

Many cities, throughout the world, have have major architectural structures that they are associated with.

Rome? The Coliseum.

Paris? The Eiffel Tower.

Rio De Janeiro? The Christ Statue.

Prague? The Charles Bridge.

The iconic bridge that crosses the Vltava River, linking the Lesser Quarter and the Old Town, is known worldwide and considered to be one of the most astonishing civil gothic-style structures ever built. It is so well known that while on your whirlwind tour of Europe and buying the Coliseum charm for your Pandora bracelet, you can pick up a Charles Bridge charm as well.

At some point during a trip to Prague, most tourists will seek out the bridge as a means to travel across the river, but most will seek it out for it’s beautiful views of the river and the picturesque buildings that line its banks and for the beauty of the ancient bridge itself. It is an absolute must-see on anyone’s visit to this alluring city.

Built to replace Judith’s bridge which was destroyed by the Great Flood of 1342, construction began in 1357 under the Czech king and Holy Roman Emperor Charles VI. Charles IV laid the first stone of the bridge and construction continued for many years under the supervision of Petr Parléř, who was also working on St. Vitus Cathedral. The bridge, however, was not to be completed during Charles’ lifetime, but was at a near enough completion point to accommodate the king’s funeral procession in its crossing of the Vltava River. Such a solid construction, it has survived many floods and other calamities…legend has it that eggs were mixed into the mortar used in its construction. Maybe there is some truth to this matter, as it still stands strong and proud to this day.

Originally called the Stone Bridge or the Prague Bridge, the Gothic structure only became known as the Charles Bridge (or Karlův Most) in 1870. It is protected by two bridge towers…on the Lesser Quarter side, Malostranská věž and on the Old Town side, Staroměstská věž. Both towers can be climbed for an extraordinary view of the city and the bridge from above.

As you walk along the bridge, it is hard to believe that it was once open to car and tram traffic. Hoards of tourists stroll across its expanse every day, stopping to examine the statues of saints and patron saints that line the balustrade with the most popular being St. John of Nepomuk. The Czech martyr saint was executed during the reign of Wenceslas IV by being thrown into the river from the bridge. It is easy to find this statue from the plaque that has been polished to a shine by the countless people that line up to touch it for good luck every day. Most of the statues today are copies with the originals being found in the Lapidarium, part of the National Museum.

The bridge is also a popular area for Czech musicians and artists and souvenir vendors to display their wares. It is a great place to be entertained and to purchase unique finds. As I walked along the bridge most recently, I watched both a flutist and an accordionist perform and browsed numerous stands selling jewelry, photographs and artwork. It is a place that I come specifically when searching for paintings, as their are many types and styles available.

While everyone should make their way to the Charles Bridge when staying in Prague, do not expect your stroll to be a stress-free one. Thousands of tourists stroll and linger on the bridge hourly. You will find yourself dodging selfie-sticks and tour groups following their flag-wielding tour leader as they make their way from Old Town to the Lesser Town. A great time of the day to enjoy this bridge is at sunset so as to enjoy the Prague Castle against the evening sky. But…if you wish to have it almost all to yourself…go at night or the very early morning.

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The Charles Bridge (Karlův Most)

http://www.prague.eu/cs/objekt/mista/93/karluv-most
Address: Charles Bridge, 110 00 Prague 1
Hours: Open continually
Admission: free
Getting there: Metro, A station Staroměstská, Tram, 6, 9, 17, 18, 22, station Národní divadlo, Bus, 294 station Mariánské náměstí

Old Town Bridge Tower (Staroměstská věž)

http://en.muzeumprahy.cz/201-the-old-town-bridge-tower/
Address: parc. č. 148, 110 00 Prague 1 – Old Town
Hours: November–February, 1000-1800, March, 1000-2000, April–September, 1000-2200, October, 1000-2000, daily
Admission: General, 90 CZK, Reduced 65 CZK, Family 250 CZK
Getting there: Metro, A station Staroměstská, Tram, 6, 9, 17, 18, 22, station Národní divadlo, Bus, 294 station Mariánské náměstí

The Lesser Town Bridge Tower (Malostranská věž)

http://en.muzeumprahy.cz/202-the-lesser-town-bridge-tower/
Address: čp. 57, 110 00 Prague 1 – Lesser Town
Hours: November–February, 1000-1800, March, 1000-2000, April–September, 1000-2200, October, 1000-2000, daily
Admission: General, 90 CZK, Reduced 65 CZK, Family 250 CZK
Getting There: Metro, A station Malostranská, Tram, 12, 20, 22 station, Malostranské náměstí

LIST OF STATUES ON CHARLES BRIDGE

Statues on the south side of the bridge

Statue of St. Ivo
Statues of saints Barbara, margaret and Elizabeth
Statue of the Lamentation of Christ
Statue of St. Joseph
Statue of St. Francis Xavier
Statue of St. Christopher
Statue of St. Farncis Borgia
Statue of St. Ludmila
Statue of St. Francis of Assisi
Statue of Saints Vincent Ferrer and Procopius +Bruncvik column
Statue of St. Nicholas of Tolentino
Statue of St. Luthgard (Dream of St. Luthgard)
Statue of St. Adalbert
Statues of Saints John of Matha, Felix of Valois and Ivan
Statue of St. Wenceslas

Statues on the north side of the bridge

Statue of the Madonna attending to St. Bernard
Statue of the Madonna, Saints Dominic and Thomas Aquinas
The Crucifix and Calvary
Statue of St. Anne
Statue of St. Cyril and St. Methodius
Statue of St. John the Baptist
Statue of Saints Norbert of Xanten, Wenceslas and Sigismund
Statue of St. John of Nepomuk
Statue of St. Anthony of Padua
Statue of St. Jude Thaddeus
Statue of St. Augustine
Statue of St. Cajetan
Statue of St. Philip Benitius
Statuary of St. Vitus
Statue of the Holy Savior with Cosmas and Damian

The Castle on the Hill

When someone finds themselves in Prague for the very first time, no doubt, they will be drawn to the Prague Castle. A showpiece of the city, it is perched above the Lesser Town (Mala Strana) in the Castle District and keeps a watchful eye on the activities of the city.

One of the largest castle complexes in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site, it was founded in the 9th century by Prince Bořivoj of the Premyslid Dynasty. Consisting of numerous palaces and ecclesiastical buildings of various architectural styles, the castle is the official residence of the President of the Czech Republic. Once a seat of power for kings of Bohemia, Holy Roman emperors and presidents of Czechoslovakia, it is one of the primary tourist attractions of the city.

Up early and heading on the subway towards the Castle, we were excited for all that there was to experience in the complex. On previous visits, I had been on the Castle grounds but had never visited any of the major buildings. Exiting the Malostranska metro station, we decided to make the long steady climb to the castle rather than connect to the tram so that we could experience the beautiful views of the city along the way as well as encounter the Karel Hasler statue and the usual accompanying guitarist.

Once inside the complex, finding where to purchase tickets was a bit perplexing. Entering the Old Royal Palace, I finally discovered a ticket window. Many different attraction combinations are offered and we decided on Option B, the most popular option (according to the ticket seller) which included the Royal Palace and Vladislav Hall, St. Vitus Cathedral, Basilica of St. George and Golden Lane. After our tickets were purchased and we were waiting to enter Vladislav Hall within the palace, I noticed that now familiar sign…the one with the camera and a slash through it. Oh no! Not again! However, after reading a little further, I found that pictures were allowed with a permit that could also be purchased at the ticket window.

Entering Vladislav Hall, we were impressed with the size of the structure as well as the arch-ribbed vaulting of the ceiling, the large Italian Renaissance windows and the five bronze 16th century Renaissance chandeliers. Originally designed to serve as a throne hall, it was the largest hall in medieval Prague and one of the largest halls in Central Europe. Built in the Late Gothic Style with some Early Renaissance features, the exact dates of construction are not clear. Used for banquets, councils, coronations and indoor jousting tournaments, one of the most notable features is the Rider’s Staircase on the northern side which was designed to receive a knight on horseback.

One of the oldest parts of the Prague Castle, the Old Royal Palace dates back to 1135. Moving from Vladislav Hall in the southwestern corner into the former offices of the Bohemian Chancellery, you find the room where Protestant nobles, rebelling against the Bohemian estates and the emperor, threw two of the emperor’s counselors and their secretary out of the window, which sparked the Thirty Years’ War.

At the eastern end of the hall, steps lead up to a balcony that overlooks All Saints’ Chapel. Another doorway, leads to the Assembly Hall, which contains replicas of the Bohemian crown jewels. A spiral staircase leads to the New Land Rolls Room, the repository for land titles, where the walls are covered with the clerks’ coats of arms.

A couple of the most interesting stories about the castle pertain to the procurement of the castle by Nazi Germany in 1939. When President Emil Hacha was forced to hand the Czech nation over to the Germans, Adolf Hitler spent a night in the castle gloating over his new acquisition. During the Nazi occupation in World War II, the castle became the headquarters of Reinhard Heydrich, the “Reich Protector of Bohemia and Moravia”. Placing the Bohemian crown on his own head, he was doomed according to legend, which states that if a despot places the crown on his head, he is doomed to die within a year. Less than a year after assuming power, he was attacked by British-trained Slovak and Czech soldiers while on his way to the castle and died of his wounds.

The Old Royal Palace was very interesting and filled with history. The old saying, “If the walls could talk”, is definitely true here as many historical events have taken place on the premises.

Moving on from the Old Royal Palace, we decided to backtrack from the Palace towards our original entry point, to Golden Lane, the 15th century, old world street within the complex. Originally known as Goldsmith’s Lane for the many goldsmiths that resided there, it was created when a new outer wall was added to the existing complex.

Once when visiting the castle grounds, I was able to quickly walk through Golden Lane at the end of the day when the grounds were closing, but unable to catch more than a glimpse of the old world buildings. This time, we were able to visit each of the eleven historic houses that contain period scenes that depict the life of the artisans who worked and lived in the structures.

In the upper level of the houses, a medieval armory is showcased with a multitude of suits of armor and weapons. Cannons are also displayed in the courtyard at the entry area of the lane.

After our visit to Golden Lane was complete and we headed back toward the center of the complex, we decided to duck into St. George’s Basilica, while there was no line. The oldest surviving church building within the complex and the second oldest in Prague, the basilica was founded by Vratislaus I of Bohemia in 920. Rebuilt after being destroyed by fire in 1142, the present facade, with its twin white towers than can been seen throughout the city, was added between the years of 1671 and 1691. The basilica holds the tomb of saint Ludmila of Bohemia as well as shrines of Vratislav and Boleslaus II of Bohemia. It also serves as a concert hall.

Our next and final visit was to the imposing Gothic structure of St. Vitus’ Cathedral. To many people, the Prague Castle is St. Vitus Cathedral as it is what dominates the skyline. Known primarily as St. Vitus Cathedral, it is also dedicated to Saints Wenceslas and Adalbert.

The largest and most important church in the country, St. Vitus was founded on November 21, 1344. Taking almost six centuries to complete, it was damaged by a great fire in 1541 and its final phase of construction took place between 1873 and 1929.

The line to enter St. Vitus was extremely long and was hampered by the security measures employed at the entrance. After an hour’s wait, we were finally able enter the cathedral.

As we walked throughout the interior, we stood among the massive pillars supporting the magnificent vaulted ceiling and were impressed by the side chapels and the beautiful stained glass windows, most notably one designed by Mucha, installed in the north nave in 1931. The window, portrays St. Wenceslas, as a boy, with his grandmother, St. Ludmila, surrounded by episodes from the lives of Saints Cyril and Methodius who spread Christianity among the Slavs. The image of Slavia is also included below Christ.

The extraordinary cathedral has overseen the coronation of Czech kings and queens and contains the tombs of many Bohemian kings and Holy Roman Emperors. In the chancel of the cathedral, in front of the high alter, is the royal mausoleum. Below this, the royal crypt accommodates the royal tombs. Czech kings and queens, archbishops and patron saints of the country are interred here, most importantly, St. John of Nepomuk and King Charles IV.

The most exceptional part of the cathedral is St. Wenceslas Chapel, built between 1344 and 1364 and is where the relics of the saint are kept. The lower part of the walls are decorated with over 1300 semi-precious stones and frescoes of the Passion of Christ. The upper walls’ paintings depict the life of St. Wenceslas and a Gothic statue of St. Wenceslas stands in the middle of the wall. The chapel is not open to the public, but it can be viewed from two doorways. It is also here that the priceless Bohemian coronation jewels, the fourth oldest in Europe, are stored behind a small door secured by seven locks. The Czech Crown Jewels are only displayed to the public once every eight years, however, the replicas can be seen in the Old Royal Palace.

Religious services in the Cathedral can be attended daily and confessions are heard twice a week.

After visiting all of the attractions included in our ticket, we were free to wander the grounds of the castle. There are many other parts of the castle to visit, including the gardens, St. George’s convent and the National Gallery, the exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, the Powder Tower, the Toy Museum and the picture gallery of Prague Castle. One of the most memorable things to take in is the changing of the guard which takes place hourly on the hour with the midday ceremony including a fanfare & banner exchange.

No visit to the Czech capital is complete without a visit to the Prague Castle. Whether you decide to walk the grounds or purchase a ticket and visit one of the many historical buildings within the grounds, you will not be disappointed with all that there is to offer.

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The Prague Castle

https://www.hrad.cz/
Address: Prague Castle, Castle District, Prague 1, Czech Republic
Admission Information: https://www.hrad.cz/en/prague-castle-for-visitors/tickets
Ticket Type: Prague Castle – Circuit A, Adults 350CZK, Students 175CZK, Family 700CZK
St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower, Powder Tower
Ticket Type: Prague Castle – Circuit B, Adults, 250CZK, Students 125CZK, Family 500CZK
St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower
Prague Castle – Circuit C, Adults 350CZK, Students 175CZK, Family 700CZK
Exhibition “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral”, Prague Castle Picture Gallery
Exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, Adults 140CZK, Students 70CZK, Family 280CZK
Exhibition “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral”, Adults 300CZK, Students 150CZK, Family 600CZK
Prague Castle Picture Gallery, Adults 100CZK, Students 50CZK, Family 200CZK
Powder Tower – Exhibition of the Castle Guard, Adults 70CZK, Students 40CZK, Family 140CZK
Great South Tower with a View Gallery, Adults 150CZK
Note: Tickets are valid for two consecutive days.
Photography Permit, 50CZK, photography allowed without flash and tripod, prohibited in exhibitions “The Story of Prague Castle”, “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral” and in Prague Castle Picture Gallery
Hours: Prague Castle Complex, daily 0600-2200, Historical buildings, April 1-October 31, 0900-1700, November 1-March 31, 0900-1600, Prague Castle Gardens, April & October, 1000-1800, May & September, 1000-1900, June & July 1000-2100, August, 1000-2000, Changing of the Guard, April-October, hourly on the hour, 0700-2000, November-March, hourly on the hour, 0700-1800
St. Vitus Cathedral Masses: Sunday Mass, 0830 (celebrated in Latin every last Sunday of the month), Sunday Vespers, 1700 (not during July-September), Monday-Thursday Mass, 0700, Friday Masses, 0700 and 1800, Saturday Mass, 0700, Confessions (Czech and English) Sunday, 0930-1000 and Friday, 1730-1750.
Getting There: Metro station: Malostranska (line A), then take tram 22 to Prazsky hrad (shortest route). You can also walk the many steps uphill from Malostranska.

In Case of Attack…

During the Cold War, the threat of a nuclear attack was very real for all living in Czechoslovakia.

Czech citizens were constantly brainwashed to hate everything from the west. Children were taught in schools and adults at work to be constantly prepared to evacuate in the event of a nuclear attack and how to handle the effects of an attack. Suitcases were packed with the essentials needed to survive in the bunkers…radios, batteries, food.

The bunkers were not designed for comfort, but merely a means to keep people alive for a couple of weeks until plans could be made to evacuate the people to the countryside.

During one of my “offbeat things to do” searches for Prague, I came across the Nuclear Bunker tour. Tour times are offered twice a day…once in the morning, which did not quite work with our arrival time, while on layovers. The other tour, at 2:30, meant that I could maybe get a half hour of sleep before heading down to the tour office to sign up, but after flying all night, somehow I never made it. So, finding myself with extra time in Prague while visiting with my son, I decided that it was now or never.

The tour office, located in the Art Passage, just past the U Prince hotel, is a small cubicle next to the Money Exchange office on the left hand side of the passage, a few feet after stepping inside. Finding it closed for lunch from 1:00 until 2:00, we walked out to the Old Town square to watch the Astronomical Clock perform its two o’clock show before returning to purchase our tickets. Seemingly, an extremely popular tour, we were amazed with the amount of people who purchased their tickets after us and began their wait for the tour to begin.

Beginning as a walking tour, we departed Old Town and encountered many places that played a role in the Cold War era, including the Secret Police headquarters and Wenceslas square. It was in Wenceslas Square that Jan Palach, a student of history and political economy at Charles University in Prague, set himself on fire on January 16, 1969 to protest the invasion of the Soviet Union. A very inconspicuous monument in front of the National Museum marks the place of his death.

Other places of interest, such as the Reduta Jazz Club, which attempted to promote Jazz at the time when this genre was condemned by the Communist regime, and artwork by Czech artist David Cerny were pointed out, including “Hanging Out” a Colonel Sanders-sequel figure that dangles suicidally from a rooftop near Old Town, the giant babies that climb the Zizkov TV Tower and the Franz Kafka Rotating 42-Layer Head.

While most of these places and points of interest can be visited on your own, the most riveting parts of the walking tour were the stories that our tour guide Katarina told us of her family’s experiences with communism. The Melantrich Balcony, near Wenceslas Square, served as a tribune for speakers to the masses of protesters in 1989 during the Velvet Revolution. Although just a young child, she accompanied her parents to this site to hear Vaclav Havel address protesters at the beginning of the fall of communism.

After our visit to Wenceslas Square, we boarded tram number 9 (included in the tour price) for the final part of our tour. A few stops later we were making our way down to the Nuclear Bunker.

Climbing down the four story spiral staircase, one can only imagine the panic and chaos you would encounter in the event of an actual nuclear attack. Stale, musty air greets your nostrils and not much else. Designed to give each person one meter of space, it is a stark and cramped area, although interesting to note, this particular bunker has been used as a club venue in recent years.

Walking down the corridor, past a storage area, we then made our way through the bathroom facilities and into the medical area. This location offers museum-like displays depicting the area’s usage. The next corridor offered a wide array of gas masks, many pictures from protests and other interesting protective suits designed for children.

Passing thru the next doorway into the small vestibule, an exhibit for a communications office is presented in an adjacent room and a depiction of the decontamination area. A weird mannequin wearing a Santa hat and called “Santa” guards the door. Walking further, you are confronted with strange displays of children wearing gas masks and carrying guns and dolls. Crates of ammunition (hopefully disabled) line the walls.

Finally, the fun part. A large assortment of coats, hats, gas masks and guns are available for visitors to try on and take pictures with alongside gas-mask wearing mannequins and a large Russian flag. Just don’t push the BIG RED button!

After making your way back through the many corridors, you climb the spiral stairway once again. Upon exiting the heavy steel doorway, you can take a deep breath of fresh air and gaze upon a still intact civilization.

A small local bar occupies the area outside of the bunker. In the event of being a little unnerved during your time so far down inside the earth, a cold beer can help to take the edge off!

A short walk takes everyone back to the tram and to Wenceslas Square where your tour guide leaves you to make your way back to your hotel or to your next destination!

In such a beautiful city, with photo opportunities everywhere you look, it’s hard to imagine the city’s dark past. Unless you are privy to the specific locations, one would never know that there are countless bunkers (in addition to the deep metro stations) that still lie in wait in the event of a nuclear attack. Definitely one of the most unique tours I have ever taken, visiting the Nuclear Bunker was most definitely a highlight of all my visits to this amazing city.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Communism and Nuclear Bunker Tour

http://www.prague-communism-tour.com/#_=_
Address: Malé Námêstí, 459/11, Praha 1, 110 00
Tour Times: 1030 and 1400, daily, except December 24 and 25
Tour Price: Adults, 600 CZK (about $25), Students, 500 CZK (about $21)

The Seeker of Independence

Walking down Barnes Road, toward the coast, on many occasions, to purchase local crafts at the Arts Market in Accra, I’ve noticed a large structure in a park-like setting. Checking a local map, I discovered it to be the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial, dedicated to the memory of the prominent Ghanaian leader Kwame Nkrumah.

Dr. Nkrumah, the former prime minister and Ghana’s first president, led Ghana to seek its independence fifty-nine years ago. Born on the country’s gold coast, he was educated in the United States, earning a Bachelor of Arts degree in economics and sociology in 1939, a Bachelor of Theology from Lincoln seminary, a Master of Arts degree in philosophy and a Master of Science in education from the University of Pennsylvania in Philadelphia. Upon his return to Ghana, he made brief stops in Sierra Leone, Liberia, and the Ivory Coast. He then started his political career by working for the colony’s first true political party, the United Gold Coast Convention in December of 1947. His first office, Leader of Government Business, eventually led to his appointment as prime minister. After Ghana’s independence in 1957, he was elected president, with his reign ending in 1966 when he was deposed. Going in to exile in Guinea, he was never to return to Ghana during his lifetime. Falling ill, he died in Bucharest, Romania in 1972, while seeking medical treatment. Buried in Guinea, where he was served as co-president, he was finally returned to Nkroful, Ghana, the village of his birth. The empty tomb, can still be found in Nkroful, however, Nkrumah’s remains were transferred to the large national memorial tomb in Accra.

Having an extra day on my most recent trip to Ghana, I decided to dedicate it to seeing more of what Accra has to offer. Since the Nkrumah monument was not far from the hotel, I decided to make it the focus of my day.

Arriving at the front of the property, there are no signs which direct you to the entrance. A security guard pointed me to an open gate and said that I was welcome to walk throughout the complex. After entering the grounds and being asked for my ticket at the museum, however, I was finally directed to an entrance gate on the far right side of the property, where I paid my admission fee.

The impressive structure that dominates the property is a mausoleum, designed by Don Aurthur and houses the bodies of Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, former prime minister and Ghana’s first president, and his wife Fathia Nkrumah.

When approaching the mausoleum from High Street, it is preceded by statues of bare-chested Ghanaian flute blowers and other musicians sitting in long fountains of water. The fountains were not operating, taking away from what I would imagine would be a beautiful sight. Directly in front of the mausoleum, is an impressive bronze statue of Kwame Nkrumah standing in the precise spot that he declared Ghana’s independence on March 6, 1957. The mausoleum is reached by concrete bridges on all four sides. The five acres of gardens surrounding the fountains and the mausoleum are alive with old and newly planted trees from dignitaries of other countries.

The mausoleum, built with Italian marble, represents an upside down sword, a symbol of peace in the Akan culture. The black star at the apex symbolizes unity and a skylight at the top of the Mausoleum illuminates the grave which is in the center of the mausoleum.

Another Nkrumah statue, behind the mausoleum, stands headless. Originally residing in front of the Old Parliament House, this statue was vandalized and de-headed during the February 24, 1966 military and police coup d’etat. The recovered head, which was presented by a patriotic citizen to the information service department, sits next to the statue.

A small museum is at the rear of the property. This museum, houses many of the personal items of Dr. Nkrumah as well as correspondence and photographs of his meetings with many important world dignitaries.

There is also a small gift shop at the rear right side and a refreshment stand on the left side of the property with some picnic tables.

The Memorial is interesting to visit and very educational for those unaware of Ghana’s history. Though needing a bit of upkeep, it is also a fitting tribute to a great man.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Kwame Nkrumah Memorial and Mausoleum

Address: High Street, Accra, Ghana
Hours: unknown
Admission: 10 cedi

The Amazing Acropolis

High above Athens, the Acropolis keeps watch over the city.

The flat topped, steep and rocky hill is the home to the Parthenon, the Erechtheion, the Propylaia and the temple of Athena Nike. The Acropolis’ monuments have survived for almost twenty-five centuries through wars, explosions, bombardments, fires, earthquakes, sackings, interventions and altercations and still they stand after the multitude of changes that Greece has seen over time. The heart of the city, it still represents what it originally stood for, Democracy, Philosophy, Freedom of Expression and Speech and a place where people from all continents converge.

Having visited the Acropolis on many occasions, my original intent was to visit the Acropolis museum. After finding that photography is not allowed within the building, I decided to head to the Acropolis first, saving the museum for later when I would need a place to cool off from the heat of the day.

The line for entry was quite long, encompassing tourists from many countries, however the major shock was the difference in price from my last visit. Two years ago, the admission price was only 12€…today, the entry fee has jumped to 20€. Additionally, the price from two years ago, included all of the ancient sites, Dionussus Theater and the Southern slope, Temple of Zeus, Agora and Agora Museum, Hadrian’s Library, Kerameikos and Roman Agora and was valid for four days. Today, you must purchase a Multi-site ticket which covers the above attractions and costs 30€.

Making my way thru the gates, I headed up the winding path among the ruins that line the pathway, with a stop to rest and admire the theater of Herod Atticus, built by the Romans in 161 AD. The theater is still used today for classical concerts, ballet and performances of high cultural value. Further on is the Theater of Dionysious, the first stone theater and home to Sophocles, Aeschylus, Euripides and Aristophanes. Rebuilt around 342 BC it was then enlarged by the Romans for gladiator flights.

After the remaining climb, I found myself at the entrance, the Propylaea, dating back to 432 BC. A magnificent first view of your destination, it is also the point where the most excited tourists, stop to take group pictures and selfies. Navigating your way around these individuals proves to be challenging, especially on the smooth marble steps.

On your left is the Pinacotheca and a Hellenistic pedestal and on the right, the tiny temple to Nike Athena. The temple commemorates the Athenians victory over the Persians and sits on a platform overlooking the islands of the Saronic Gulf.

Walking out onto the plateau, that is the Acropolis, your first views are of the Parthenon on your right and the Erecthion on your left. The buildings of the Acropolis were built by Pericles in the fifth century BC and were considered the most sacred buildings and the safest part of the city. As little as 150 years ago, there were still dwellings on the Acropolis.

The Erecthion, my favorite part of the Acropolis, contains the porch of the maidens or Caryatids. These statues are copies as four of the original statues reside in the Acropolis museum and the fifth, in the British museum. The building sits on the most sacred site of the Acropolis where Poseidon and Athena had their contest over who would be the Patron of the city. Athena, declared the victor, had the great city named for her. The building itself is the real religious temple of the Acropolis, sitting on what was the northeast corner of what was the original temple. This temple was burned and destroyed by the Persians in 480 BC.

Take the time to walk around the Erecthion and inspect all side of this structure before continuing to the Parthenon. You can get some really nice photos when the sun is behind the building in the afternoon.

The Parthenon, still being taken apart and being put together from the wear and tear of centuries of exposure to the elements is encased in scaffolding, taking away from the full beauty of the building. Restoration has been going on for the past thirty years and will probably continue onward for an equal amount of time. That being said, impressive in scale and that which we associate the Acropolis with, it is an architectural marvel. Designed by Kallikrates and Iktinos as a tribute to the past and the achievements of the Ancient Athenians it was also erected to house a giant statue of Athena. It was also not a temple or place or worship as most people assume and used as a treasury to store the tribute paid by the other Greek city-states and a storage facility for Turkish gunpowder.

After making your way around the Parthenon, move over to the northeast corner of the Acropolis to where the mighty Greek flag flies high. Standing in this location you can see many landmarks including Mount Lycabettos, the National Gardens, the Plaka, Hadrian’s Arch, the Temple of Zeus and the Olympic stadium. On a clear day, you can also see the port of Pireaus and some of the islands beyond.

After making your way back to the Propylaea, consider an exit to the right to visit the rock of Areopagos. The location where St. Paul spoke to the people of Athens in AD 51, there is a tablet embedded in the stone that contains his words. Despite a very slippery climb, it offers a superb view of the Agora, the Plaka, Monastiraki, Omonia and much of Athens as well as a great place to watch the sunset. Continue onward down the hill toward the Agora and other parts of this fabulous, historic city.

Because I have visited the rock of Areopagos on a few other occasions, I decided to make my way back the way I had come and toward the Acropolis museum, my original destination. Passing the many artists that line Dioysiou Aeropagitou street, one caught my eye. Purchasing two paintings, it suddenly dawned on me that I would have to carry my prizes with me for the rest of the night. So…the museum or my hotel?

Big decision…the Acropolis museum would have to wait until another day…again.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Acropolis

http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/gh351.jsp?obj_id=2384
Hours: 0800-2000, closed for some holidays
Admission: 20€
Getting There: Metro, Acropolis, then walk via Dionysiou Areopagitou Street. Metro, Monastiraki, then walk through the archaeological site of Ancient Agora, or Plaka district.

Copenhagen City Hall

If you decide to break the law in Copenhagen, expect your day in court. But, if you are an architecture lover, at least you can appreciate the beautiful National Romantic style building where your case will be heard!

Each time I have been to Copenhagen, I have walked near or through the square in front of City Hall. I never imagined that with it being an administrative building, it would be open to the public, however, recently, while taking some photographs of the Hans Christian Andersen statue, I passed near the entrance. Those entering and exiting did not seem to be only Danish citizens. Deciding to take my chances at being asked to leave, I stealthily entered the beautiful foyer and made my way into the three-story central hall. Noticing other tourists, I realized that the building was open to the public and I made my way through all three floors.

The hallways are richly appointed with beautiful murals in each of the stairwells located in the far ends of the building. Stained glass is located in many of the windows and spiral staircases link the floors throughout. The balconies that ring the center of the building look out onto the central hall, which is highlighted by a glass ceiling and multiple Danish flags. The third floor is most notable for the many statues that line the walls, representing Danish historical figures.

Built between 1892 and 1905, Copenhagen City Hall is the headquarters of the municipal council as well as the Lord mayor of the Copenhagen Municipality, Denmark. Located on City Hall Square it is one of the highest buildings in Copenhagen and was modeled on the city hall in Siena, Italy. Its location was moved here after fire demolished the original city hall as well as its replacement.

The facade is richly ornamented with a gilded statue of Absalon, Danish archbishop and statesman, just above the balcony, but it’s main focus is the tall slim clock tower which was featured on a 20 DKK commemorative coin, issued in 2007. The tower offers stunning views of the city and over the adjacent square with tours taking place regularly.

Make sure to pay a visit to the exhibit on the Clock and its creator which is located on the right when entering the building. Also, a lovely garden is also featured at the center of the building, which can be accessed directly from outside via an archway on the side opposite Tivoli Gardens.

Before your departure, take some time to look out over the square, which, interestingly, is in the shape of a seashell, and is a popular gather point for tourists and locals. And, if you are here at Christmas time, make sure to stop by the square to admire the enormous Christmas tree displayed here.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Copenhagen City Hall

http://www.visitcopenhagen.com/copenhagen/city-hall-tower-gdk688394
Address: City Hall, DK-1599 Copenhagen V, Denmark
Admission: City Hall, free.
Admission: Tower admission, 30 DKK, Monday-Friday, 1100-1400, Saturday, 1200.
Hours: Monday-Friday, 0830-1630, Saturday, 1000-1300. Tours in English are offered Monday-Friday at 1500.