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On my recent visit to Edinburgh, I learned some new things. New things about Harry Potter, in fact.
Reading about the Potter Trail, a free walking tour in Edinburgh, I decided that it would be just the sort of thing that a 15 year old boy, who grew up with Harry Potter, would think was cool. Little did I realize how much I would enjoy it!
Finding the statue of Greyfriar’s Bobby on George IV Bridge, which was the start of the tour, was a bit of a challenge. For the “Scottish” challenged, the name threw me for a bit of a loop! What or who was a Greyfriar’s Bobby? And while walking down the street that I thought it was on, which changes names, where was the bridge? After asking three kindly Scotsmen if we were headed in the right direction, we were directed to continue on a couple of blocks, although upon arrival, we would have definitely known we were there. A large crowd had congregated around a statue of a small Skye Terrier, some wearing witch hats, round Potter-like glasses and cloaks!
The Skye Terrier statue, named Bobby, is a whole other story in itself, standing on the curb in front of Greyfriar’s Bobby bar and created by William Brodie in 1872. The best known story surrounding the dog tells a tale of a canine so devoted to his master that when his owner passed away, the dog spent the next 14 years guarding his grave until his own passing. The statue was initially created as a drinking fountain with the upper part for humans and the lower for dogs, although the water supply was cut off many years ago. In the nearby Greyfriar’s Kirkyard, a red granite stone was erected on Bobby’s grave in 1981 and small dog toys, flowers and sticks (for Bobby to fetch) are frequently left.
Finally, after watching many people rub Bobby’s nose and dress him up for the Christmas holiday, our tour guide, Jodie, arrived…looking very much the part. Passing out “magic” wands (to assist with our spells for stopping traffic), we set out on our way, first entering Greyfriar’s Kirkyard. Our tour guide showed us Greyfriar’s Bobby’s gravestone and then began to give us information on the creation of Harry Potter…in Edinburgh.
This was new to me! Though I admit, I loved the movies and the books, but I guess, for some reason, I always thought the books were written in London. I never realized that JK Rowling was Scottish!
There in Greyfriar’s Kirkyard, we were shown the graves of people that inspired the names of two of the main characters, Professor McGonagall and the Dark Lord himself, Voldemort (Tom Riddel). Interesting stories were shared and then we looked out of the rear gate upon the school and the uniform-clad children being dismissed, that inspired the Houses of Hogwarts; Gryffendor, Ravenclaw, Hufflepuff and Slytherin. Here, my son was drafted from the crowd and “sorted”.
Before we left the cemetery, we were shown the best view of the castle in all of Edinburgh. We were told how JK Rowling sponsored a contest for young, aspiring writers. The winners were rewarded with a visit to the Grassmarket area, transformed to look like Diagon Alley, and then on to the castle, which was “magically” converted into Hogwarts Castle.
After leaving Greyfriar’s Kirkyard, we then went on to the Spoon Café, once known as Nicolson’s Café and the spot where JK Rowling first penned her stories about a young wizard. We then continued on to The Elephant House, another café in which Rowling was inspired to write the early novels of Harry Potter as she sat at the rear window, looking out onto the Greyfriar’s Kirkyard, George Heriot’s School and Edinburgh Castle. Another location famous for the Harry Potter novels is the Balmoral Hotel. Located on Princes Street, it was not on our tour, but near to our hotel. It was there that Rowling finished her seventh and final book, Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.
Continuing on, we then visited the tunnel, Potterow Port, on the University of Edinburgh’s campus, which inspired the scene where Harry and his cousin, Dudley, were being chased by Dementors. It has been speculated that Potterow, an area which the author sometimes frequented, may have been the inspiration for Harry’s surname.
Lastly, we finished our tour in The Grassmarket. This area, located in a hollow, below the Castle and Royal Mile, is a historic market place and event space in the Old Town area. The long winding street, with colorful storefronts and restaurants, will have you thinking that you are on Diagon Alley searching for your first wand. Hey, you almost expect to see the goblins from Gringots standing on the street corner!
At the conclusion of our tour on Victoria Street, we returned our wands, tipped our tour guide and said goodbye to our short, but exciting Harry Potter adventure. Maybe a new book could come of it…Harry Potter and the Terrific Tourists!
One of the most fascinating things I have every done in any city, I finally walked away from a tour feeling as though I really learned something. With a newfound appreciation for the struggle and hardships that the amazing author faced, I suddenly felt the need to go home and reread all seven books!
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Potter Trail Tour
- http://pottertrail.com/
- Address: 30-34 Candlemaker Row, Outside Greyfriars Bobby’s Bar, Edinburgh EH1 2QE
- Hours: Usually every Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 1500. Check schedule on website.
- Admission: free walking tour, however, tips appreciated at the end of tour
Spoon Café
- http://www.spoonedinburgh.co.uk
- Address: 6A Nicolson Street, South Bridge, Old Town, Edinburgh, Edinburgh EH8 9DH
- Hours: 1000-2200, Monday thru Saturday, 1000-1700, Sunday
The Elephant House
- http://www.elephanthouse.biz
- Address: 21 George IV Bridge, Old Town, Edinburgh, Edinburg EH1 1EN
- Hours: 0800-2200, Monday thru Thursday, 0800-2300, Friday, 0900-2300, Saturday, 0900-1000, Sunday
Although the castle’s origins as a residence date back to the 12th century, with the reign of David I, Edinburgh Castle only retained a residential role until the 15th century, later transitioning into military barracks and garrison. It was considered one of the most important strongholds in the Kingdom of Scotland and was involved in many historical conflicts. Recent research identified 26 sieges in the castle’s 1100 year old history.
The castle offers many different buildings, museums and vantage points. We began our exploration by climbing the Lang Stairs to the Argyle Tower. Not much to see within the tower, we moved on to Mon’s Meg, the Dog Cemetery and St. Margaret’s Cathedral.
Adjacent to the cemetery overlook is Mon’s Meg, a medieval bombard and one of the largest cannons in the world (by caliber). This cannon was built in 1449 as a gift to James II, King of Scots from Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy. It was used in many sieges until the 16th century and spent some time in the Tower of London until it was returned in 1829.
Moving into St. Margaret’s Chapel, we found it blissfully empty. With a surface area of only 160 square feet, it was nice not having to jockey for position with other tourists to capture nice photos and enjoy the beauty of the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh. The 12th century chapel, was spared the wrath of Robert the Bruce when the castle was captured on March 14, 1314 and all buildings in the castle were destroyed. The chapel, restored and now cared for by the St. Margaret’s Chapel Guild is well worth a short visit, especially for the five stained glass windows of St. Margaret of Scotland, St. Andrew, St. Columbia, St. Ninian and William Wallace, all designed by Douglas Strachan in 1922.
To the Great Hall’s south, is the Scottish National War Memorial, which occupies a converted barrack block and stands on the site of the Medieval St. Mary’s Church. When entering the building, pay note to the gargoyles and sculpture that decorate the exterior. The interior is a long massive space, with a high vaulted ceiling, stained glass windows (designed by Douglas Strachan) and monuments commemorating Scottish soldiers; those who served with the Scottish regiments and those who died in the two world wars and in recent conflicts. On an altar within the Shrine (placed on the highest point of the Castle Rock) rests a sealed casket containing Rolls of Honour which list over 147,000 names of those soldiers killed in the First World War. Another 50,000 names were inscribed on Rolls of Honour and line the walls of the main hall. No pictures are allowed within the building.
The Royal Scots Dragoon Guards Regimental Museum features a large offering of weapons, uniforms, medals and paintings which portray the story of the past regiments that formed or were associated with the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards, including 3rd Dragoons Guards (Prince of Wale’s Own), 6th Dragoon Guards (The Carabiniers), 3rd Carabiniers (Prince of Wale’s Dragoon Guards), the Royal Scots Greys (2nd Dragoons) and 25th Dragoons.
After leaving these two museums, we walked past the Governor’s House and turned left to the entrance of National War Museum. The story of Scotland at war is told here along with the story of the battles that were lost and won. Many military artifacts and personal treasures are on display. Again, this museum is free with your entrance ticket to the castle and is worth a look around. By this point in the day, however, we were getting a bit tired of the museum setting and hungry, so we made it a quick visit.
Place des Martyr’s or Martyr’s Square is a square in the center of Brussels dedicated to the days of the Belgian Revolution of 1830 and those who lost their lives. A monument and crypt stand in the middles of the square and contain the bodies of 400 heroes from the revolution, many of which lie not far from where they were shot during the battles fought in the streets of Brussels.
You will also notice not-so-historical things on your walk through Brussels. Although you can visit the Musee Magritte or Belgian Comic Strip Center, both located in the heart of Brussels, some pieces of art reside on the sides of buildings, on garage doors and on metro walls. There are some exciting street artists residing in Brussels and their masterpieces will surprise and delight!
Lastly, eat, drink and be merry! Belgium is known for some of the best beer, chocolate and waffles! Visit Delirium Monasterium, considered the temple of Belgian beer, serving countless selections of beers from over 60 countries. Relax at the bar and let the bartender choose a flight of beers for you to try! You won’t be disappointed…but maybe a little tipsy!
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After your visit to St. Catherine’s church is complete make sure to check out the Tour Noire (Black Tower) located on the side of the NH Hotel and diagonal from St. Catherine’s. This 12th century tower, still stands strong and is the lone surviving part of the ancient stone city walls.
The Carillon tower is all that remains of a late gothic church and is the oldest clockwork in the Netherlands, dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. The belltower for the Church of Our Dear Lady still stands despite the demolition of the church in 1882. The tower, threatening to fall, in 1972, was shored up with steel girder sand restored. The tower was not open for inspection, but we learned that it houses the Association for the Conservation of the IJsselmeer. The bells, made by Pieter van den Ghein, ring a short melody every fifteen minutes and we were serenaded as we made our way into the center of town.
Deciding to skip the Edam museum, a crooked building near the Damplein, we headed toward the Grote Kerk. Arriving at the 15th century Sint Nicholaaskerk (St. Nicholas Church), we discovered that it would not open until after one o’clock. Walking around the cemetery at the rear of the building we inspected the many unique gravestones and statues.
Passing the 18th century baroque-style Town Hall, we headed down the main street towards Fort Edam. After a 20 minute walk, we soon found ourselves at the gates of Fort Edam. Theme of the day in Edam? Closed. Peering in, we eyed the aged structure that was once the line of defense from attacks from the north. Not able to enter, we turned around and made our way back from which we came, aiming to catch the next bus and a busier city.
The Dutch town of Volendam, located on the Markermeer Lake is known for its colorful wooden houses, red roofs and old fishing boats that rest in its harbor. There are many seafood vendors lining the harbor and two fascinating museums, the Volendam Museum, featuring paintings, sculptures, pottery, traditional costumes and art from 19th century artists who visited the area and the Palingsound Museum, which chronicles the local music scene.
The Mariamman Hindu Temple was only a couple of blocks away and was my first destination. A very colorful and interesting place, filled with vibrant deity sculptures, it serves the small community of Chinese and Vietnamese Tamil Hindus living in the city. This temple is rumored to have miraculous powers giving luck and wealth to those who worship within its walls and was filled with the devout as I walked through its doors.
Built at the end of the 19th century, the building features a royal tower at the entrance which stands twelve meters high. To the left of the entrance sits the Gods and Goddesses, Shiva, Kali, Brahma and Vishnu and at an altar in the center of the temple is a statue of the Goddess Mariamman.
Leaving the Hindu temple, I noticed a pagoda on my map a few blocks away. The Xá Lợi Pagoda, the largest pagoda in Ho Chi Minh City, was built in 1956 and was the headquarters of Buddhism in South Vietnam. Best known for being raided and vandalized by the Army of the Republic of Vietnam Special Forces in 1963, it did not appear to be open and was not as lavish and ornate as some of the others I had seen on my journey, although it is known to have the highest bell tower in Vietnam. The grounds on which it sat left a lot to be desired, leaving me a bit disappointed that I had walked out of my way, unnecessarily, to visit. Snapping a few pictures, I then decided to make the long walk to the Jade Emperor Pagoda.
One of the five most important shrines in Ho Chi Minh City, Jade Emperor Pagoda, also known as the Tortoise Pagoda, was built in 1909 in honor of the supreme Taoist god, the Jade Emperor or King of Heaven, Ngoc Hoang.
When entering the temple, the first thing you notice is how dimly lit and smoky the atmosphere is as a great amount of incense is being burned to honor the gods. That being said, the main hall is very intriguing showcasing surrealistic divinities. Filled with exquisite woodcarvings, the main sanctuary features the Emperor Jade Chua Hoang (the God of the Heavens) flanked by his guardians, the Four Big Diamonds (aptly named because they are said to be as hard as diamonds) and menacing Taoist figures made of reinforced paper mache.
Many locals visit the shrine, making offerings of flowers, lighting candles and joss sticks and the limited space in the temple can feel a little cramped. When departing the temple, stop by the small pond filled with turtles and check out the shells that have been inscribed with auspicious inscriptions.
Constructed between 1886 and 1891, the colonial ochre-colored facade is enhanced by arched windows, green wooden shutters and a beautiful clock which still works to this day. Inscribed on the facade are the names and faces of those responsible for the timepiece invention, including President of the United States, Benjamin Franklin, Italian inventor Alessandro Volta, British physicist Michael Faraday, French mathematician Andre-Marie Ampere and many others. There are also inscriptions dedicated to those responsible for discoveries and advances in the field of electricity.
The gasp-worthy interior will, at first, remind you of a train station, which was indeed, Eiffel’s inspiration. Glancing upward, you will notice the high, looping arches and the spectacular dome of gilded capitals resting on green metal pillars. The intricately designed marble floors are representative of antique maps and the dark wood telephone booths that line the front of the building on each side, are reminders of the role the post office played before email and mobile phones were commonplace. Two maps of the region, which show telegraph lines that crisscross Vietnam and Cambodia and the Saigon region in 1992 are painted on the walls overhead. So beautiful and so French inspired, it is easy to forget where you really are. Don’t worry, the large portrait of Ho Chi Minh hangs high above everything at the far end of the building, reminding you that you are still in Vietnam.
My next stop was not far…just across the street. The Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica was a place that I very much wanted to visit. As I was leaving the Post Office and glancing at the clock, however, I noticed that it was half past noon. Verifying the opening time at Notre Dame’s entrance, I realized that I had just missed the morning hours and it would be two and a half more until it reopened. If I were to come back, I would have to be here exactly for the reopening. It would be tight. Just in case that I did not make it, I decided to take some pictures of the exterior and move on a few blocks to the Reunification Palace.
The building has an open, modern feel and its functional rooms remind one of the many meetings and conferences that took place here. On the premises, however, you can view the F5E fighter plane which bombed the palace on April 8, 1975 and the tank which destroyed the palace gate.
Hue’s Orchid Hotel’s staff was extremely welcoming and within a few minutes, had me checked into my room and booked on a tour to the Royal Tombs for the next day. Delighted to find not only a beautiful basket of fruit in my room and a desktop computer for my use, I was ecstatic to find an actual window! Don’t laugh! Many hotels in Vietnam are built so close together, only the front and sometimes the back facing rooms boast windows, usually offered at a premium.
Walking along the main road, many xe oms (motorbike taxis) slowed to ask if I needed a ride to the Citadel. Politely declining all, I finally agreed to one who also offered to take me to the Thien Mu Pagoda, wait for me and then deposit me at the front gates of the Citadel. We set off and after a short ride were parking near the souvenir stands lining the road near the pagoda.
Thien Mu Pagoda, sits on Hà Khê hill, about two miles from the Citadel on the Perfume River. Construction began in 1601 and it was later expanded and refurbished. The historic tower facing the river, known as Phước Duyên tower, has seven stories, each dedicated to a different Buddha, is the tallest religious building in Vietnam and sometimes recognized as the unofficial symbol of the city.
A slight drizzle continued, but didn’t deter me from seeing the tower, the temple and gardens behind it and the large marble turtle, a symbol of longevity. Keeping a close eye on the clock, I walked throughout the premises, enjoying the pavilions with the large Buddhist guardians and the colossal bell, that locals claim can be heard from six miles away.
This sprawling complex in Hue was where the Emperors of old would have lived and conducted all their business. There was even a part of the citadel known as “The Forbidden Purple City,” which, much like China’s Forbidden City, was reserved for only the most important people in Vietnam.
Making my way to the Forbidden Purple City in the center of the Imperial Enclosure, I was saddened to see that almost nothing remained. Almost entirely destroyed by the war, a few walls and crumbled remains lay on the site. Once a glorious institution, Vietnam’s Forbidden Purple City rivaled and was designed to resemble China’s Forbidden City. This citadel-within-a-citadel-within-a-citadel was reserved for the personal use of the emperor and only his servants were allowed on the premises with the next outer section reserved for important ceremonies and the outermost for non-royal commoners.
Walking back toward the front of the premises, I soon found myself near the main gate. Deciding to walk to the west, along one of the inner walls, I was surprised to find a whole other part of the citadel. There were many different compounds, each within their own walls with small lanes between them. Once again, I made my way toward the rear of the property, through each of them, enjoying the different pavilions and temples within.
At the rear of the property, there was a lake and a bridge leading to another entrance gate (one of ten). Making my way along the lake I walked to the eastern part of the complex, again making my way forward.
