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Some arrive in Cozumel by cruise ship.
Some by air.
Some by ferry.
No matter your method of transportation into Cozumel, make sure you’ve arrived by checking out all that the island has to offer!
My family and I have been to Cozumel many times over the years. Most times we have arrived by ferry, a couple of times by cruise ship, but this time, my son and I arrived by air. Honestly, I am a flight attendant and I should know these type of things, but I don’t think I realized that Cozumel had an airport…as I’ve only ever talked to people who have flown into Cancun and gone to Cozumel by ferry.
School had just let out and everyone in my family was busy with work and other obligations except for me and my youngest son. An adventure was in order! We had no idea where we were going to end up. We were going to go to the airport, with suitcases filled with clothing for any climate and get on a flight…any flight…and see where we could go.
After miraculously getting seats on an oversold flight to Atlanta, we had to devise a plan. Grabbing breakfast and a seat at McDonald’s, we opened up my computer and began checking which flights from Atlanta had seats to and from the destination. Sunny Cozumel was the winner! (Or so we thought…) A few hours later, we were touching down at the Cozumel International Airport. We couldn’t wait to lay by the pool and get some much need sun and relaxation.
To our dismay, no beautiful, sunny skies were there to greet us…only gray clouds and wet pavement. How can this be? We were arriving at a tropical destination…a resort…don’t they order up beautiful weather for the tourists? Surely this was just a passing rain shower!
After arriving at our hotel, the El Cozumeleño, we donned our bathing suits and headed out to the pool. It was raining again. No good. Time to pull up to the bar.
It continued to rain…all night…and after a text to my dad, I realized that because I don’t watch the news regularly, I had failed to comprehend that it was hurricane season and a tropical storm was causing havoc in the Gulf of Mexico. Ugh…
The next morning, with high hopes, I pulled back the curtains in our room, hoping for sun. Nope. No sun again. Those same gray clouds and a light rain greeted us.
Well, we were in Cozumel. Rain or not, we were going to see what was out there, even if we had to buy umbrellas and rain slickers. It was time to make the best of it!
After renting a Jeep Patriot (great for driving through floodwaters) we headed out. Navigating the narrow streets, we drove slowly, through the pouring rain until we reached the main highway that cuts through the middle of the island (Transversal de Cozumel). The rain had slowed and we were soon arriving at San Gervasio archaeological site. Thankfully, the rain soon tapered off and we were able to spend some time investigating these interesting ruins.
Heading east again, we soon spotted the end of the road. Only two ways to go…north or south. Since we had been warned by our rental company that traveling on the dirt road to the north would void our rental contract, we decided that it was southbound for us!
This part of the island has some amazing beaches and breathtaking scenery and at the turn in the road, a very cool bar and restaurant…Señor Iguanas. Years ago, I remember coming to this part of the island and there only being some small fisherman’s huts and small shacks that sold tacos and beer. Although we would have loved to hang out at Señor Iguanas and enjoy the views, the ambiance and the forty mile per hours winds whipping through the establishment, we decided to get some food to go and continue on our way. After all, we now had a break in the rain.
The waves were quite large and for a while, we stopped to watch a group of surfers ride the massive crests toward shore. If there had been more of a gentle swell, my son would have considered taking a lesson at one of the many venues along the way that offer private instruction.
As we continued on, we stopped often to admire the spectacular coastline, shop at the many vendors that line the roadway and just enjoy our drive and time being away from the resort.
As we rounded the island’s southernmost tip, we headed west and made our way, past many resorts, to the village of El Cedral which boasts the first church on the island and a Mayan ruin. I especially enjoyed driving around the town’s back streets…lots of cute homes and artwork line the streets!
With the rain still at bay, we drove through downtown (vowing to make our way here the next day for shopping), past a tall lighthouse and on to a place we had seen on our way to the hotel.
Bam No. 4 Military Base (Base Aérea Militar No. 4) offers some great photo ops with some old military planes displayed out front. In addition, there is a war memorial, honoring some of the defenders of the nation.
Leaving our car parked in this location, we made the short walk back towards town to a small square located between the roadways. Here, there is a replica of a Mayan temple with statues depicting ancient Mayans.
As the day was drawing to a close, we made our way back to our hotel and our dinner reservations, ever thankful that we were able to see what Cozumel had to offer even though the weather wasn’t up to par.
Pulling back into the El Cozumelena, with not a moment to spare, we parked our car as the skies opened up again and we made a mad dash inside! Time to head to the bar…
Cozumel is a lovely destination for anyone who loves islands or is a diver or snorkeler (thousands of dive sites lie just offshore). There are many delicious food options throughout the city and various types of shopping in the central plaza and throughout the island. And…if you run out of things to do in Cozumel, take the ferry (located downtown) right on over to the mainland and Playa del Carmen and the Mayan Riviera. You will find many other things to do there as well!
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San Gervasio Archaeological Zone
- http://www.inah.gob.mx/es/zonas/101-zona-arqueologica-san-gervasio
- Address: Kilómetro 7.5, Carretera Transversal, Centro, 77600 Cozumel, Q.R., Mexico
- Hours: Daily, 0800-1630.
- Admission: $9.50 (US dollars)
- Bring comfortable shoes, water and bug repellent.
Senor Iguanas
- Address: At the intersection of Transversal de Cozumel and Quintana Roo C-1
El Cedral
- Address: Off of highway Quintana Roo C-1, near Playa Palancar
- Admission: free
Bam No. 4
- Address: On Avenue Rafael E. Melgar, just past downtown, heading north
- Admission: free
Hearing the church bells toll from a nearby bell tower, I headed into Old Town and to the 18th century church of the Immaculate Conception (Antibes Cathedral). Here, I discovered a brilliantly hued structure built in the 11th century on the site of an ancient pagan temple and with stones used from earlier Roman fabrications. The interior was not as impressive as I had hoped, but contained some notable pieces such as a Baroque altarpiece, the 16th century Virgin of the Rosary by Louis Bréa which depicts Christ as a child, being held by Mary with cherubs in the background. You can also observe a life-sized wood carving of Christ’s death.
Moving on from the cathedral, I soon found myself at the Marché Provençal, a covered market close to the harbor which offers fresh selections of meats, fishes, cheeses and vegetables every day. As I wandered through building, I also discovered many local craftsmen offering handicrafts available for purchase as well as some artists displaying their talents.
The day was drawing to a close, and I wanted to visit the Castle of Antibes, which is home to the world renowned Picasso Museum. Containing one of the greatest Picasso collections, the museum draws hardcore fans from far and wide to view the twenty-four paintings, forty-four drawings, thirty-two lithographs, eleven oils on paper, eighty pieces of ceramics, two sculptures and five tapestries. Visiting the place where Picasso lived on the sea for six months, however, was not to be. Having written down the incorrect closing time, I arrived as the doors were being locked!
When making plans to visit Antibes, I had spied Fort Carré on the map. It appeared to be directly between the train station and the harbor and my original plan to was to walk nearby and see if it was open to the public. Well, maps aren’t always correct and after my arrival, I discovered it was about a fifteen minute walk away from the center of Antibes. The route was well marked and I soon arrived at the Antibes Football Club stadium. A large statue that appeared to be some sort of memorial and the fort was visible on the other side, however, it was quite confusing as to how to make my way there.
One of the tallest, yet, little known War Memorials in France, the statue stands guard over the Stade de Fort Carré. Walking around the base of the statue, you are reminded of the terrible losses that the town of Antibes suffered during World War One. Two hundred and fifty-four names are engraved on all four side of the monument’s base…a number larger than any other town in France.
Finally, the entryway to the castle stood before me. Paying the admission fee of 3€, I was instructed to remain on the lower level until greeted by a guide. Walking around the circular interior courtyard, I was mesmerized by the contrast between the dark red doorways and the aged tan stone walls. An exhibit detailing the construction of the castle was contained in one of the rooms off of the courtyard and an old well occupied the ground space.
Arriving in the front of the building, an extensive queue snaked from the front to side where tickets were required to enter the queue. After a quick walk to the ticket office at the Sala Delle Colonne, we soon had tickets in hand and were back to the line. Moving rather quickly, our bags were inspected at the door and we were then admitted into the cathedral.
Built in the last century by architect Ricardo de Jaxa Malachowski, it stands on the site of an older church, San Miguel de Miraflores. Though the beauty of its grand colonial exterior clearly outshines the interior, the interesting stained glass detailing the scenes of life and miracles of Jesus and the image of the Miraculous Virgin, from which its name is derived, on the altar are worth stopping in to pay a visit.
As the tour guide assembled our group at the entrance, we all stared up at the great adobe and clay monolith to our left. A massive structure, it is truly amazing that it has not succumbed to the development of the city which surrounds it on all sides.
Guided around the plaza that surrounds the pyramid, we were briefed on the history of the pyramid and the Lima people who resided in this area and gazed upon the displays designed to give tourists a representation of life when the pyramid was built. Separated by a large structured wall dividing it into two separate sections, one side was an area of offering and for religious ceremonies and another served as an administrative area.
Our guide enlightened us with much information detailing the changes that Huaca Pucllana endured around the year 700. By the year, 800, the highest parts of the site became an elite cemetery of the Wari culture. Many tombs and burial bundles have been unearthed on this apogee, the most recent being in 2010, when the remains of an affluent woman were discovered along with four children, who were believed to be sacrificed to accompany her to the after-world. Open tombs can be inspected which contain various elements such as clothing, household items and ritual objects.
Finally, we made our way down the pyramid and back to our entry point, which was also our exit.