Tag: history

The Danish Fort

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Antsy…

That’s me.  I used to be the person who loved lying in the sun all day.  Now, I still do, but I get these nagging thoughts that I should also being doing something a little more culturally stimulating.

While in St. Thomas, there were so many beaches and islands that we wanted to check out, but I knew that there were some interesting landmarks that I wanted to visit as well.

As we drove through Charlotte Amalie, after our arrival, we passed by Fort Christian.  A lovely, dark red building, the fantastic clock tower caught my attention.  I knew that we needed to come on another day to explore!

‘After a few rain showers blew through and the skies decided to remain cloudy, I persuaded my family that we should drive into town to see the fort…the fact that there is a souvenir market next door and the promise of some cool t-shirts cemented the deal.

Fort Christian, named for the Danish King Christian V, originated with Governor Jorgen Iversen, after his arrival on May 25, 1672.  Four years later, the outer walls and a three story oval tower, Trygborg, had been completed.  The fort served its purpose over the years, successfully defending St. Thomas from the French among others, however, it was demilitarized during the 1870s.  Undergoing enlargement and repair, it later served as the police headquarters of the Virgin Islands, as well as a town center, a government building and a jail.

A basic square structure with stone curtain walls and diamond-shaped stone bastions at the corners, the Tyygborg tower and north curtain were eventually demolished as well as other parts of the fort.  The current Gothic Revival structure, with its Victorian clock tower, which serves as an entrance, was eventually built to replace the north curtain in the 18th century. Today, the bastions and the rooftop can be accessed as well as the living quarters that were later added.

We enjoyed visiting the lower level which houses former cells, displays detailing the fort’s history, chapel and the living quarters.  These areas are filled with antiques and gives an idea of the living standards at the time.  We did not have a tour guide as we arrived just before three o’clock (last admitting time) however, having an escort would have been a benefit in learning more about the history of the structure and the role it played in protecting the island’s harbor.

Enjoy a visit to Fort Christian…take the time to make your way up top and look out toward the water, the cruise ships and the mountains….you might even spot the Governor’s house!  The views are truly fantastic!  And when you are done…grab an ice cream or snow-cone to beat the heat and maybe even a souvenir t-shirt!

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Fort Christian

  • https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/prvi/pr29.htm
  • Address:  Forte Strade, Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas 00801, USVI
  • Hours:  Monday-Friday, 0830-1600.  Last admittance, 1500.
  • Admission:  Non-local Adult, $!0, Children, ages 5-12, $7.  Local (with ID), $5.  Students (school-aged in uniform and/or with ID), $3.  Children (4 years and under): free.

 

Infant Jesus of Prague

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There’s something I like about little statues that have their own wardrobes.

Mannekin Pis ring a bell?

But, have you ever heard of the Infant Child of Prague?

Located in the Discalced Carmelite Church of Our Lady Victorious in Prague, the Infant Child is a nineteen-inch, 16th century, Roman Catholic, wax-coated wooden statue of the infant Jesus holding a cross-bearing orb.

Having read about this interesting statue, I was determined to find its home to see what this was all about.  Crossing the Vltava river, we made our way in the general direction of the church.  After a few wrong turns and consultations of the map, we soon found our way.

The 17th century church, was filled with tourists jockeying for position to see the Infant Jesus.  Located on the epistle side of the church, the  statue is presented on its own gold altar, built in 1641, and its lower half is enclosed in a silver case.

In the past, many saints, including St. Teresa of Avila, St. Francis of Assisi and St. Anthony of Padua have had a profound devotion to the Divine Child.  In fact, some believe that the statue, which resides in Our Lady of Victorious, once belonged to St. Teresa of Avila, though its exact origins are not known.

Historical sources point to a nineteen-inch sculpture of the Holy Child with a bird in his right hand as the original Infant Child of Prague.  Located in the Spanish monastery of Santa Maria de la Valbonna in Asturias, it was carved in 1340.  Other sculptures were carved by famous masters during the Middle Ages and were dressed in the aristocratic fashion of the time period. It is believed, however, that the current statue was a gift from Lady Polyxena to the Carmelites who said upon presenting the figurine,  “I am giving you what I most esteem of my possessions. Keep the sculpture in reference and you will be well off”.  Since that time, many claims of blessing favors and miraculous healings have been attributed to those who petition the Infant Jesus.

The statue of the Infant Jesus is quite ornate, studded with diamonds and crowned with gold.  The orb he holds in is left hand symbolizes kingship and his right hand is raised with the palm in a blessing posture.  Since 1788, the statue’s raised two fingers have donned two rings, gifts of thanksgiving from a noble Czech family for the healing of their daughter.  The family also gifted a wig of blond hair.

The statue’s clothes are routinely changed by the Carmelite sisters of the church, especially during the Christmas season and the first Sunday of May every year on a day of feasts of coronation and public procession.  As we walked towards the altar of the church, on the right, we noticed a spiral stairway with people ascending.  Curious, we followed the crowd and discovered a small museum highlighting much of the Infant Jesus’ wardrobe.

Though my companion was a little disturbed by the fact that such devotion is given to what he only considers a doll, I was fascinated by the history of this icon. When in Prague’s Malá Strana district, take a moment of your time, and visit the Infant Jesus of Prague.  Or better yet, try to be there during the coronation celebration held every year on the first Sunday in May.  The Infant Jesus is displayed in the presbytery on Saturday and Sunday.  On Saturday, after evening mass, a procession is held with a copy of the statue.  The main pilgrimage mass with the coronation of the statue is celebrated at ten o’clock on Sunday.

For true believers, a novena prayer can be said to petition the Infant Jesus.

Novena to the Infant Jesus of Prague in Urgent Need

(To be said for nine days or nine consecutive hours)

O Jesus, who said, “Ask and you shall receive, seek and you shall find, knock and it shall be opened to you,” through the intercession of Mary, Your most holy Mother, I knock, I seek, I ask that my prayer be answered.  (Mention your request)

O Jesus, who said, “All that you ask of the Father in My Name He will grant you, “through the intercession of Mary, Your most holy Mother, I humbly and urgently ask Your Father in Your Name that my prayer be granted.  (Mention your request)

O Jesus, Who said, “Heaven and earth will pass away, but My word shall not pass,” through the intercession of Mary, Your most holy Mother, I fee confident that my prayer will be granted.  (Mention your request)

Amen.

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Church of Our Lady Victorious

  • https://www.pragjesu.cz/
  • Address:  Karmelitska 385/9 | Monastery of the Infant Jesus of Prague, Prague 118 00, Czech Republic
  • Hours: Church, 0830-1900, daily.  Museum, Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700, Sunday, 1300-1800.  Souvenir Shop, 0930-1730, daily
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Tram 12, 15, 20, 22, 23, stop Hellichova

Visit Vyšehrad!

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Yes, there is another castle in Prague…well, sort of.

Situated on a rocky bluff overlooking the Vltava River, Vyšehrad, or “The Castle on the Heights”, was established in the mid 10th century and according to local legends, the oldest seat of Bohemian rulers and was probably the location of the first settlement which later became Prague.

After the Prague Castle’s origins, the deteriorating castle of Vyšehrad was abandoned as a royal home.  After renovations by Charles IV, new fortifications with two gates and a royal palace were added to the complex.  Later, however, after the Hussite Wars, the castle was abandoned and fell into ruin.  Renovations during the 17th century established it as a Baroque fortress, a training center for the Austrian Army and later incorporated the fort into the Baroque city walls around Prague.

Today, Vysehrad is a place of recreation as well as history.  Czech citizens visit the grounds, which have now become a public park, for amusement, relaxation and celebration.  Tourists visit to see the many architectural treasures on the site.

There are four gates located in the complex.  The Brick Gate (Cihelná brána), built in the Empire style in 1841, is made up of a passageway and two pedestrian passages flanked by two guard rooms.  The 17th century Tabor Gate, which was our entry point and the main entrance was built by King Charles IV and leads to the 17th century Leopold Gate.  You can also find the remains of the Špička Gate.

Tabor Gate
Leopold Gate

Walking through the peaceful grounds, we admired the sculpture that graced the premises as well as the breathtaking views along the ramparts overlooking the Vltava River.

Marveling over the Rotunda of St. Martin, it was astonishing that this rare, Romanesque building still stands strong today.  Built in the 11th century, it is one of Prague’s oldest surviving buildings.  Used for gunpowder storage during the Thirty Years’ War, it is now used for religious purposes.  When admiring this ancient edifice, be sure to seek out the cannonball from the Prussian rampage in 1758, which is embedded in the facade to the right of the window.

The neo-Gothic Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul was a landmark that I would love to have visited, however, a wedding was being held during the time we were there and we were not admitted into the church.  The basilica, founded in 1070-1080 and later rebuilt after a devastating fire, features an impressive stone mosaic above the entry and twin spires that can be seen from many locations throughout Prague.

Behind the church is the Vyšehrad cemetery, the final resting place of many famous Czechs, including author Karel Capek, composers Antonín Dvorák and Bedřich Smetana and artist Alphonse Mucha as well as many other scribes and politicians.

To the right of the basilica, check out the huge statues, designed by Josef Mysbek, which depict figures of Czech Mythology.  The four statues show an allegorical couple, “Lumír and Piseň” (singer and muse), “Ctirad and Šárka” (temptress who lured him to his death in the 7th century War of the Maidens), “Záboj and Slavoj” (warriors who fought off a Frankish incursion in the 9th century) and ” Libuše and Přemysl” (mythical founders of Prague).

In order to explore all of Vyšehrad, you’ll need a few hours and it helps to have a beautiful day!  Bring a picnic or indulge at one of the cafés, and don’t forget to spend some time looking out over the river and the city views…sunset can be quite impressive!  But, no matter what time of day you visit…just do!

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Vyšehrad

  • http://www.praha-vysehrad.cz/
  • Address:  National Heritage Site Vyšehrad, V Pevnosti 159 / 5b, Praha 2 128 00
  • Hours:  Exhibition, January-March, November-December, 0930-1700, April-October, 0930-1800
  • Admission:  free
  • Basilica of Sts. Peter and Paul, April-October: Daily 1000-1800, November-March:  Daily 1000-1700
  • Getting There:  Metro line C, stop Vyšehrad.  Tram lines 7, 14, 18, 24, 53, 55, stop Albertov.  Tram line 2, 3, 7, 17, 21, 52, stop Výtoň.  Parking in the Vysehrad area is possible only at the designated places between Leopoldova and Táborská brana.

 

For Athen’s Athletes…

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

It’s time for your morning jog…imagine running on a track rich in history.   A place where ancient athletes once competed…

In Athens, you can!

Most visitors to Athens, make sure to see the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora and the Forum, but many don’t realize that the Panathenaic stadium is actually one of the most significant monuments in Athens and in all of Greece.

Located in the central Athens district of Pangrati, it is here that the Olympic flame sets up its journey to the cities of the Olympic games and is one of my favorite places to visit!

In 330 BC, a simple racecourse was built on the site and became the location of the Great Panathenaea, the religious and athletic festival celebrated every four years to honor the goddess Athena.   With no formal seating, spectators sat on the inclines of the adjacent ravine to view the festivities.

In 144 AD, the stadium was rebuilt by Athenian Roman senator, Herodes Atticus, also responsible for many other structures throughout the country.  Constructed entirely out of marble, it was a place for the masses with 50,000 seats.  By the fourth century, however, the stadium was abandoned when Hellenistic festivals and bloody spectacles were banned by Roman Emperor Theodosius I and the structure fell into ruin.

After archaeological excavations uncovered the stadium in 1869, it was readied, once again, for use.  By 1870, interest was shown in a revival of the original Olympic Games and thus the Zappas Olympics was held at the stadium that year and again in 1875.  Refurbishment, approximately 20 years later, prepared the stadium for the opening and closing ceremonies and as a venue for four sports for the first modern Olympics in 1896.

During the 20th century, the stadium was once again used as an Olympic venue when Athens hosted the 28th Summer Olympic Games in 2004.  With the motto, “Welcome Home”, this Olympics marked the return of the games to the city where they began.  More importantly, a new medal design was introduced replacing one used since 1928.  Guiseppe Cassioli, had designed a medal with a colossal mistake…a design depicting the Roman Colosseum rather than a Greek venue.  The new design, rightfully, featured the Panathenaic Stadium.

Today, you can visit the stadium, take a seat on the smooth marble seats in the stands or run the well-maintained track.  Not only it is great exercise to take a jog, but make sure to make the steep climb to the top of the stadium for an excellent view of the overall complex and the surrounding areas.

Two interesting Greek statues grace the far part of the track…your audio guide, included in your admission, will tell you about them…but be sure to take a close look.

Also, be certain not to miss the permanent exhibition located at the far left side of the stadium, through the vaulted passage, which contains original Olympic Games posters and torches from 1896 until today.   Each torch is so unique to the host country, it is quite interesting to see them up close.

Lastly, when departing the exhibition and returning to the stadium’s interior, walk slowly through the vaulted passage…think back to the athletes as they breathed deeply, readied their minds and made they way toward their dream.

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Panathenaic Stadium

  • http://www.panathenaicstadium.gr/Contact/tabid/93/language/en-US/Default.aspx 
  • Address:  Vasileos Konstantinou Anevue (opposite the statue of Myron Discobolus)  Athens 116 35
  • Hours:  March-October, 0800-1900, November-February, 0800-1700
  • Admission:  Adults, 5.00€, Children under 6, free, Students and over 65 years, 2.50€, persons with disabilities and those accompanying them, free.  Audio guide included.

Under the Dome

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Many wait for weeks to secure a reservation to the Reichstag in Berlin.

We talked our way in!

Let me explain…

A friend of mine, Vadim, showed me a historic photograph, taken on May 2, 1945 by Yevgeny Khaldei, of two Soviet soldiers raising the flag of the Soviet Union atop the Reichstag building during the Battle of Berlin on May 2, 1945.  Regarded as one of the most recognizable images of World War II, I remembered seeing it before, but never realized that it had been taken up on the Reichstag.

Vadim, a Russian by birth, wanted to visit the site of this picture, an important point in Soviet history, symbolizing the victory of the USSR over Germany.   Checking the Reichstag website and discovering that visits were allowed by reservation only, he also discovered that the only reservations available for the next day were much earlier than our scheduled arrival.

Deciding to fill out the reservation form despite not being able to make the time slot and applying for a party of five, he included a note explaining that we would not actually be arriving in Berlin until much later…”Would it be okay to use the reservation later in the day?”  Though he received a confirmation, it was apparent that it was auto-generated and no one had actually read his comments.

Later in the day, we made our way to the Reichstag, confirmation in hand, not really expecting to be allowed admittance.  Approaching a security official, we explained our situation and we were allowed us inside to speak to another official.

Security entrance.

First hurdle down…our foot was in the door.

Relating our story once again, we were shocked when the official returned, after checking with another person of authority,  and informed us that we would be allowed inside.  YES!

“Passports please.”

What?  No one told us that we needed to bring our passports!  Explaining that we did not realize that passports were necessary, we offered our drivers licenses.  Thankfully, this was acceptable!

Second hurdle down.

As the official checked off our names, it was apparent that Vadim had made up our birthdays (I love him…he thinks I am eight years younger!).  Crossing off the registered dates, surprisingly, he corrected each and uttered no complaint…until…the last name.  One of the women registered to visit was not present…instead, another had come in her place.

A look of frustration crossed his face and I think we all half-expected to be thrown out of the building.  Again, he left the table to speak with his superior.

We all thought, “This is where he returns with a big, fat, German NO”. “Nein!”

As he returned to his chair, he looked down at his manifest, crossed out the erroneous name, wrote in the replacement and directed us to the security checkpoint.

We were in!

Now what?  Honestly, I have to admit that aside from knowing that this was a historic building, we really did not know what we were going in to see.  After ascending to the roof and receiving our complimentary audio guide, we headed out to the dome to find out.

The Reichstag building was opened in 1894 and was modeled after the Memorial Hall in Philidelphia to house the Imperial Diet of the German Empire.  After being severely damaged by fire in 1933, the building was abandoned for its original intent, as the parliament of the German Democratic Republic (the Volkskammer) met in the Palast der Republik in East Berlin and the parliament of the Federal Republic of Germany (the Bundestag) met in the Bundeshaus in Bonn.  The building was further damaged by air raids and during the Battle of Berlin in 1945, it was captured by the Red Army.

Although an attempt was made in the 1960s to refurbish the building, a full restoration was finally completed after the German reunification on October 3, 1990.  At the culmination of the project, the building once again became the meeting place of the Bundestag.

As we entered the large dome which sits atop the Reichstag, we admired the 360-degree views of Berlin while ascending the steel ramps that curve upwards to the top of the dome.  Our audio guides continued to give commentary, but changed from the history of the building to the surrounding landscapes and buildings in the city.  At the top of the dome, the opening allows for ventilation and there is seating available for those wishing to take a rest and enjoy the views.

The main hall and debating chamber of the Bundestag could be seen through the glass enclosure beneath the mirrored cone at the center of the dome.  This cone directs light into the Riechstag, increasing energy efficiency and giving visitors a view of the parliamentary proceedings when in action.  Reservations can also be made to witness a pleinary session from within the chamber when available.

 

Visiting the Reichstag dome is something that all should try to accomplish while in Berlin.  Although we were extremely excited that we were able to gain entry to this historic monument, I do wish that we had been a little better informed.  One of the items of interest, that I realized later that we had missed, was the cyrillic graffiti left behind by Soviet soldiers after the seige in 1945.  This historical defacing has been carefully preserved and can be seen during visits to the Reichstag.

I guess we will have talk our way in again on a future visit!

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The Reichstag Building

  • https://www.bundestag.de/en/visittheBundestag/dome/registration/245686
  • Address:  Platz der Republik 1, 11011 Berlin, Germany
  • Hours:  Daily from 0800 until 2400 with last admission at 2200.  Closed all day on December 24 and after 1600 on December 31.  Also, the dome will be closed from March 13-17, July 17-21 and from October 9-13 for cleaning and maintenance.  The roof terrace will still be accessible.
  • Admission:  free with admission (by reservation) every quarter of the hour
  • Registration requests must be submitted online with a complete list of participants.  The following information is required for each person:  surname, first name and date of birth.   For those who have not booked in advance, you may register at the service center near the Reichstag Building.  If any free spots are available, you will be issued a booking confirmation.  You can also register to visit with the next two days.  Registration requires first and last names and date of birth.  Identification matching reservations will be required for admittance.
  • Getting There:  Bus number 100 and the M41 both stop at the  Reichstag.  The nearest U-Bahn station is the Bundestag.  The Reichstag is also a short walk from Berlin’s main rail station, Hauptbahnhof.

Remembering the Fallen

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Several Soviet Memorials are located in Berlin, erected to commemorate its fallen soldiers.

As we drove through the city, on the way to our hotel, we passed one of the memorials, the Tiergarten.

A colleague of mine, of Russian descent, was very excited to see that the monument was not far from some of the other landmarks we had planned to visit later that day.  Having been to Berlin a few times before, I was actually surprised to see that it was located just down the road from the Brandenburg Gate.  Maybe I had seen it and did not realized its significance or maybe I was asleep during the bus tour, but I was excited that I would be able to visit something new and share it with someone that it meant something to.

After our visit to the Brandenburg Gate, we headed west on Strasse des 17 Juni (17 June Street) and found ourselves at the entrance of the memorial which is located in the Großer Tiergarten, a large public park and a place where Adolf Hitler had plans to build Welthauptstadt Germania.  Impressively flanked by two Red Army ML-20 152mm gun-howitzer artillery pieces and two T-34 tanks, the notable monument, a curved stoa, is topped by a towering statue of a Soviet soldier, whose arm is in a position to symbolize the Red Army’s putting down of the Nazi German state.  A Cyrillic inscription under the soldier translates into “Eternal glory to heroes who fell in battle with the German fascist invaders for the freedom and independence of the Soviet Union”.

My friend, reading as we walked, explained that the monument was erected to commemorate the 80,000 soldiers of the Soviet Armed Forces who died during the Battle of Berlin in April and May 1945.  It was constructed  in 1945, within a few months of the capture of the city, and built from stonework taken from the destroyed Reich Chancellery.

As we walked to the rear of the property, we discovered an outdoor museum which highlighted the memorial’s construction and offered a look into the city’s other memorials.

Though the memorial has special meaning to those such as my friend and the many who make pilgrimages from various Soviet countries, there are those, however, who still oppose the monument.  The structure has suffered at the hands of vandals and has earned some harsh nicknames, such as “Tomb of the Unknown Rapist” which references one of the various crimes committed by the Soviet occupation troops.

The Tiergarten was a surprise for me.  Not one of the major attractions of Berlin, I had not planned to include it in my day, however, I was excited to learn more through my visit with my Russian friend.

As we walked the property, admiring the tanks, a bunny hopped out from the bushes.  A short while later, a fox surprised us as he emerged from the same bushes.  Was the fox searching for the bunny?  Though the fatalities of the war ended many years ago, this was a reminder of how things once were…when there were those who were pursued and killed…

Though there are two other Soviet memorials in Berlin, commemorating the fallen, Treptower Park and Schonholzer Heide, make sure to check out the oldest and most conveniently located…Tiergarten.

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Soviet War Memorial (Tiergarten)

 

 

 

 

Brandenburger Tor

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One of the most recognizable landmarks in Europe is the Brandenburger Tor, or Brandenburg Gate.

The first time I ever laid eyes on this magnificent piece of architecture, it confirmed my presence in Berlin.  Yes, I knew I was in Berlin, but standing before it…well, I was really there!

Built between 1788 and 1791 on the orders of the Prussian King, Frederick William II, by Carl Gotthard Langhans, it was the key entry point to the city, marking the start of the road from Berlin to the town of Brandenburg an der Havel, the former capital of the Margraviate of Brandenburg.

Located in the western part of the city center, the gate stands near the Reichstag building, which houses the German parliament, and is the monumental entry to Unter den Linden, the renowned boulevard of linden trees which leads to the Royal City Palace.  Though most of Berlin was destroyed at the end of the war, the iconic gate survived, albeit with heavy damage.  Though East and West Berlin attempted restoration, once the wall was erected, access to the gate, located in East Berlin was eliminated.

As you stand before the gate, its most notable feature is the Quadriga, the statue which depicts the goddess of victory driving a chariot pulled by four horses.  The statue remained in place for over a decade before Napoleon decided that the statue be dismantled and shipped to Paris.  Remaining in storage until 1814, it was returned to Berlin when Paris was captured by Prussian soldiers following Napoleon’s defeat.  When the statue was remounted atop the gate, one change was made…an iron cross was added to represent Prussia’s military victory over France.   During Berlin’s communist era, the cross was removed, but restored in 1990 during the unification of Germany.  Today, the Quadrica grandly sits atop the gate for all to admire.

Many historical events have also taken place at the Brandenburg Gate.

When Hitler came to power in 1933, he was treated to a torchlight procession through Berlin which passed under the gate en route to the presidential palace.

Thirty years later, in 1963, after the Berlin Wall was erected, former U.S. President John F. Kennedy, delivered one of the most famous addresses of his presidency, to a crowd of more than 120,000 gathered near the Brandenburg Gate.  Most people remember this speech for Kennedy’s one phrase, “I am a Berliner” as they do for former President Reagan’s speech, also at the Brandenburg Gate, where he challenged Soviet President Mikhail Gorbachev to “tear down this wall” in 1987.

Today, you can view a commemorative plaque which lies across Eberstrasse, which was unveiled at the 25th anniversary of Reagan’s historic address urging for peace.

 Although there are many landmarks that I have visited throughout Europe… London Bridge, the Eiffel Tower, Roman Coliseum, the Leaning Tower of Pisa…I have never been moved by one so much as this, remembering its historical significance.  Counting the bullet holes still remaining in the columns, the feelings that it invokes is indescribable. Though the Brandenburg Gate has undergone restoration over the years, it appears that construction of the subways line beneath the city and the heavy trucks that regularly make deliveries nearby have caused more cracks to appear in this amazing structure.  It is such a shame to think that one day, it might not be here.
Visit while you can…
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Topography Of Terror

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Though it came tumbling down in 1989, parts of the Berlin Wall still  stand as a testament to the Cold War era.

One such stretch of the wall is located appropriately enough at the Topography of Terror, an outdoor and indoor history museum located on Niederkirchnerstrasse, on the site in which during the Nazi regime from 1933-1945, buildings housed the headquarters of the Gestapo and the SS.  During Allied bombings in 1945, these buildings were destroyed and the ruins demolished after the war.

The Berlin Wall ran along the south side of the street, previously known as Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse and separated the American and Soviet zones.  Here, adjacent to the Topography of Terror, the longest outer segment, still remaining, can be seen both from within the museum’s grounds and from the outside.

Exhibitions marked the museum’s beginnings on Berlin’s 750th anniversary in 1987.  Shortly after, the cellar of the Gestapo headquarters, a gruesome site of  torture and execution, was located and excavated.  The site, covered at the time with canopies, was turned into an open-aired memorial and museum and detailed the history of repression under the Nazis.  Today, a permanent open-aired museum informs visitors of the timeline of the Third Reich, from Hitler’s rise, to the fall of Berlin, through the use of statistical information, anecdotal clips, photographs and architectural remnants.

Both fascinating and sobering at the same time, the Topography of Terror is worth a look, if not for the information, but for an up-close and personal look at the historical barricade.

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Topography Of Terror

  • http://www.topographie.de/
  • Address:  Niederkirchnerstraße 8, 10963 Berlin, Germany
  • Hours:  Daily, 1000-2000
  • Admission:  free
  • Note:  Additional sections of the Berlin Wall can be seen at and near the Potsdamer Platz.

Checkin’ Out Checkpoint Charlie

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“YOU ARE LEAVING THE AMERICAN SECTOR”…

was the sign (in English, Russian, French and German) that marked the main entry and departure point at the division of East and West Berlin during the Cold War.

From 1947 until 1991, Checkpoint Charlie was one of the best known border crossings.  It allowed diplomats, journalists and non-Germans to enter East Berlin on a one-day pass, but it is also known for another event in October of 1961.  It was here that U.S. and Soviet tanks faced off angrily…an incident that the world feared would lead to World War III.

Checkpoint Charlie and the Berlin Wall signified the division between East and West…capitalism and communism…opportunity and repression…until the wall was torn down on November 9, 1989.   It is hard to fathom how much has changed in Berlin and that it was only 28 years ago that Berlin was still a divided city.

Today, Checkpoint Charlie, it is one of the sights that every visitor should see due to its historical significance.  Although the wooden barrack where the visitors to East Berlin were required to pass through for vetting was removed, a US Army guardhouse and a copy of the original border sign stands in its place.  The original white booth that originally stood here, now resides in the Allierten Museum in Berlin-Dahlem.  The location of the wall can be spied in the roadway where cobblestones now mark the site and photographs of an American and a Soviet soldier stand tall.

Two gentlemen in military uniforms stand facing Zimmerstrasse and give tourists an idea of what entering Checkpoint Charlie would have been like.  Don’t expect them to pose for photos, however, one of them holds a flag and conveniently waves it in front of his face when he spies a camera pointed his way.   They will pose with you for a fee of 3€ and the other soldier will stamp your passport with commemorative stamps, for 2€.

While in Berlin, take a few moments to stop by Checkpoint Charlie and try to imagine how many stood here, trying to figure out a way to the other side.  You can also visit the Checkpoint Charlie Museum where you will learn about the Berlin Wall and the many daring escape attempts by East Germans.  An unbelieveable experience!

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Checkpoint Charlie

  • http://www.berlin.de/en/

A Walk in the Jungle

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Having visited San Gervasio archaeological site twice in the past, it was a place about which I could have said, “Been there, done that”.

Not me…

I love ruins and architecture.  So why would I not go back?

The largest and most important archaeological site on Cozumel is a sanctuary to Ixchel, the goddess of fertility and love.  Located in the center of the island in the middle of a lush jungle, populated with iguanas, flowers and foliage,  the site’s name was taken from the agricultural and cattle ranch, San Gervasio, founded by Mr. Gervasio Novelo on September 14, 1858.

The site’s original name is unknown, but its long history dates back to 100 BC and it continued into the late 16th century, with the arrival of  the Spaniards.

For the duration of San Gervasio’s existence, women have made the obligatory pilgrimage to pay tribute to Ixchel, “She Of the Rainbows”, deity of midwifery, fertility and women.

The site’s entrance is well-marked on Transversal Road, but once turning from the main road, the drive is long and narrow and marked with a speed limit that I think the iguanas could outrun.

A decent parking lot is available for those with rentals and a nice, attendant will keep an eye on your car…be sure, he will remember you and be standing nearby for his tip!

When entering the complex and paying your entrance fee of $4.50, you will first encounter a courtyard, with a few souvenir shops.  Since, I only had a rain slicker, we were trying to purchase a small umbrella for my son.  The shops only carried the long, curved handle type, for $10, which would have been impossible to bring home.  One of the shop owners, offered to lend us one, for a tip…actually a good deal for us and a smart move on her part.  How many times has this umbrella paid for itself?

Another tip I learned later was about bug spray…definitely bring your own.  My son is a mosquito magnet and I did not think of picking up some while in town.  The shop vendors were more than willing to sell us a very expensive can, which we did not purchase due to the size and cost.  Later, I learned that we could have asked for a spray down for a tenth of the cost of the can…something we should have definitely done for my son.

It is in this area that you can hire a guide to take you throughout the complex and the price for the both of us was $20, though we opted not to use this service. Restrooms are also located here and I recommend using the facilities before entering the site.

Before entering the actual archaeological site, you encounter another ticket counter.  I don’t understand the logic here…would you seriously pay just to enter the courtyard?  Anyway, here we paid $5 each and received our tickets.

The site is very well laid out, well marked and has sturdy paths to lead you from one area to the next in the front of the complex.

One of the first buildings you encounter is the The Little Hands Structure, so named because of the red colored hand prints that mark the wall.  The temple is comprised of two rooms in which a small temple was built in the interior of one of them.

Another small house-like structure is located nearby, although it is almost certain to have had a ceremonial use.  A small temple is also located in the center of the structure.

As we continued on, we encountered other small structures, but an impressive arch-like structure, which marked the intersection of two ancient roads  or sacbés, caught my eye.  In pre-hispanic days, The Arch Structure, was the entrance or exit of the central part of San Gervasio.  Pilgrims and traders would reach the famous sanctuary of Ixchel to make an offering at the altar that lies in the middle of the vaulted passageway.  It was here that many statues to Ixchel were found and are still being discovered.  One of the statues, a large ceramic image of Ixchel was believed to have delivered oracles spoken by a hidden priestess for pilgrims with questions.

From this point, we chose one of the two roads to either Pozo or Nohoch Nah.  The paved paths ended here and the road was rocky and a bit muddy from the recent rains.

Nohoch Nah, also known as the the Big House Structure, was quite an impressive one.  An altar in the middle of the enclosure, in which offerings were placed can be seen through the grated metal that covers the doorways.  Most archaeological sites prohibit you from standing on or climbing the structures, however, this one allows for climbing the stairs and walking around the formation giving you a distinct understanding of how the Mayans felt when they utilized the structure.

After a long and drizzly walk through the jungle, complete with massive puddles blocking the path, we soon arrived at Murciélagos y Pet Nah.  The Muciélagos and Round House Structures were the most important buildings in the Late Classic period in San Gervasio.  The principal center of the site was located here and it was also here that the Overlord resided.  The Round House was named as such due to the unusual rounded platforms and its altar which is also round. Again, we were able to climb to the top of the rounded platforms giving us a different perspective of Murciélagos.

After another long and muddy walk through the jungle, we soon arrived at the final area of San Gervasio, complete with four distinct structures.  The Palace Structure contained colonnaded halls most of which can still be seen standing on the foundation.   Though you were not prohibited from climbing the other structures, here, signs inform you that it is not allowed.

In this wide, grassy area, another structure, is the Ossuary,  The structure was aptly named after numerous human remains were found inside during exploration of the building.  The temple no longer exists, but originally had masonry walls and a a roof.

Another smaller structure also stands here in this area, Structure 25B, which was also another colonnaded hall with a masonry roof.   Different from other colonnaded halls, it only had three pillars with square bases and three columns with round bases.

Back to the smooth, paved walkways, we made our way toward the front of the complex returning our umbrella along the way.

Though San Gervasio is not quite as large as Chichen Itza or many of the other massive ruin sites in the Riviera Maya and has not had a lot of restoration, the numerous structures that can be viewed at close range amid the beautiful natural setting makes the off-the-beaten trek, worthwhile.

So…grab your sunglasses, umbrella and bug spray and your sense of adventure…head on over to San Gervasio.

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San Gervasio

  • http://www.inah.gob.mx/es/zonas/101-zona-arqueologica-san-gervasio
  • Address:  Kilómetro 7.5, Carretera Transversal, Centro, 77600 Cozumel, Q.R., Mexico
  • Hours:  Monday thru Sunday, 0800-1630
  • Admission:  $9.50
  • How To Get There:  By car, head north on Transversal Road from downtown Cozumel.  The entrance is well-marked.  If you are arriving by cruise ship, many taxis will take you to the ruins and wait for about $70 and return you to San Miguel or the cruise ship’s dock.