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When you live in a hilly city, you get great legs.
Sometimes, however, walking up those hills takes too long and sometimes, you are just not in the mood.
In 1874, the people of Lisbon probably were not very concerned with how their legs looked, like the people of today. The hills within the city, however, consistently presented a problem for those who needed to travel from the lower streets of the Baixa to the higher Bairro Alto districts.
Engineer Roberto Arménio recognized this dilemma and presented a project to the Lisbon municipal council which called for an elevator which would facilitate movement between the two areas.
Although many years commenced prior to its completion and inauguration in the early 1900s, the lift, finally put into operation, made life easier for the residents of Lisbon. Over the years, however, visitors developed a fascination with Elevador Santa Justa, the only vertical lift, as well as the Elevador da Glória, Elevador Lavra and Elevador da Bica, funicular railways within the city. In 2002, the lift, celebrating its first centenary, and the funicular railways were declared National Monuments. Four years later, after a massive remodeling and renovation project, Elevador Santa Justa was opened to the public in 2006 as a tourist attraction.
Reading about this amazing engineering feat, I decided to tackle the Baixa district’s maze of streets and find this Neo-Gothic tower.
Approaching the vertical structure from the rear, I gazed up at the walkway connecting the tower to Largo do Carmo, catching a glimpse of those traversing the walkway and others peeking out over the edge of the observation decks. The iron structure, with its neo-gothic arches and geometric patterns, is truly remarkable to see up close, towering seven stories with its four vertical columns, each composed of two pillars. And if you think there is some semblance to the Eiffel Tower, you would be correct. Roberto Arménio was, indeed, a former student of civil engineer and architect, Gustave Eiffel!
Walking to the front of the structure, the first thing I noticed was a sign, Wait Time, 60 Minutes From This Point.
Gulp…how long?
The line, leading from the sign, down the steps and around the corner didn’t seem so far-reaching so I decided to give it a go. After all, most of the time, wait times go a lot faster than estimated.
As I people watched and played games on my phone to pass the time, the toll of walking all afternoon became apparent on my lower back. I prayed for the line to move more expeditiously and for the lady in front of me to take off her backpack, which she apparently kept forgetting was on her back and hitting me in the face.
30 minutes down. Moved up a level in Candy Crush!
15 minutes to go.
5 minutes more.
Finally, I could see the elevator up ahead. Only, those five minutes seemed to stretch out for eternity, turning into 15 more minutes.
The line finally began to move ahead of me and I quickly counted the number of people, realizing that there had to be limited capacity in the elevator car. Money in hand, I walked up to the door. The elevator operator took one look at me and shut the door in my face, while saying “FULL”!
Moments earlier, I had noticed that the elevator has two cabins, yet only one was in operation. I had began to time the one working elevator’s departure and return and realized that the complete trip was approximately fifteen minutes. So, with an aching back and a growling stomach, I tried to ignore the other tourists crowding around me, assuming if they pushed closer, their wait time would miraculously tick away quicker. Fifteen more minutes. Maybe I could move up another level on Candy Crush if my Iphone had enough charge.
A whirring sound caught my attention and I looked up just as the elevator came to a standstill in front of me. After the descending passengers exited from the rear of the cabin, the door was finally opened and I was allowed to enter.
The cabin, decorated in wood, mirrors and windows, has two benches along each side for those who do not wish to stand. A sign on the wall also confirmed what I had initially thought…capacity, 29 persons.
The thirty second ride was uneventful and I was a bit disappointed that while there were windows, they were covered in a layer of grime so thick that anything worth viewing was a gray, blurry mess.
Exiting the elevator, I stepped out on the platform and made my way around the structure.
Was I blown away?
No, actually, I think I had seen similar views of the city from the castle. Noticing a gentleman in the far corner near a turnstile, I realized that another viewing platform was available one story up via circular stairways…for an additional charge. No thank you, I think the view from 12 feet up will be…the same view. Maybe I was just cranky at this point, especially when I realized why the elevator takes so long to go up and then, come back down. The operator takes a smoke break at the top!
Wandering over the walkway, something suddenly dawned on me. There was no one manning the entrance to the walkway. If you are up on the Largo do Carmo, you can walk on over to the elevator and ride down, getting the elevator experience, for €3. No long lines, no pushy people with backpacks. Maybe I should have investigated this a little more thoroughly before coming.
Upon my descent, I pondered my visit to the Elevador Santa Justa. Was it worth the wait? No.
If there was no wait? Yes.
The Elevador Santa Justa is an important part of technological history as well as that of the “City of Seven Hills”. Take some time to make your way there and see if there is a line. If the wait time is too long, get your exercise and walk up to Largo do Carmo…save yourself some euros and more importantly, time.
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Elevador Santa Justa
- http://www.carris.pt/pt/ascensores-e-elevador/
- Address: R. do Ouro, 1150-060 Lisboa, Portugal
- Hours: March-October, 0700-2300, daily. Viewpoint open 0900-2300, daily. November-February, 0700-2100, daily. Viewpoint open 0900-2100, daily.
- Admission: €5.15 for up to 2 journeys. Purchased onboard. A 24-hour public transportation ticket can also be purchased from any metro station for €6.15 and includes admission to the Elevador Santa Justa as well as the Gloria Funicular, the number 28 tram and the tram to Belem.
- Getting There: Closest metro stations, Baixa-Chiado or Rossio
The Assembly Hall, located on the southwest corner, seats approximately 2,000 people and sometimes acts as an overflow area for the church’s twice-a-year general conferences. Free music concerts are held here and as I admired the impressive organ used for these recitals, a young lady struck up a conversation with me. Hailing from France, I found out that she is one of the full-time sister missionaries from around the globe, who serve on Temple Square. Giving me some history of the Assembly Hall, she told me about the concerts held in the building, the impressive organ and suggested that my next stop be the Tabernacle. She informed me that if I was impressed by the organ in the Assembly Hall, I would probably be blown away by what I would find in the Tabernacle.
Once my walk-around was complete, I made my way across the well-manicured lawn to the Tabernacle to see this incredible organ. Although I had heard about the Mormon Tabernacle Choir, my only knowledge of them was that they are associated with the LDS Church. Speaking with another sister missionary, I learned that the choir, founded in 1847, consists of 360 members and has performed in the Tabernacle for over a hundred years. Members must be part of the church, between the ages of 25 and 55 and live within 100 miles of Temple Square. And the organ? Wow, what can I say? Containing 11,623 pipes, it is one of the largest organs in the world. It was originally built in 1867 and was rebuilt and enlarged several times with the current version having been completed in 1948. The Mormon Tabernacle Choir performs with the accompaniment of the organ for daily recitals, which are open to the public. Another organ, consisting of 7,708 pipes is housed across the street in the Conference Center and is used for performances during the church’s semiannual general conferences.
Continuing on, my next stop was at the North Visitors Center. Most important to note in this building is the beautiful replica of the Christus, a statue of Jesus by Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, located on the upper floor. The ramped walkway’s walls and the domed ceiling above the statue are painted with clouds, stars, planets and other heavenly bodies. Make sure not to miss the beautiful paintings depicting biblical stories on the upper floor and on the lower, dioramas of some biblical scenes. There is also an area dedicated to the good works of the LDS Church.
The Church History Museum across the street from the North Visitor’s Center is worth spending some time in and houses collections of Latter-day Saint art and artifacts. There are both permanent exhibits and temporary ones offered throughout the year. I enjoyed the film which showed how Joseph Smith was directed to the golden tablets, from which he translated the Book of Mormon, by the angel Moroni. You can also see a replica of the golden tablets which give you an idea of their size and weight.
If you are interested in the historical records of the LDS Church, the Church History Library is located near the museum. Admission to the library is complimentary and patrons can access a large collection of books, manuscripts and photographs. Though I did not take the time to enter, it was explained that tours are given by senior missionaries and visitors can view a video which explains the mission and purpose of the Library. Next door to the museum is the Family History Library which is where many come to find information about their ancestors. Founded in 1894, records and genealogical data for over three billion deceased ancestors from around the globe are available with assistance from research specialists and trained volunteers.
Next on my agenda was the Conference Center, a relatively new structure, completed in 2000. The center has a capacity of over 21,000 and is used for the LDS Church’s general conferences, concerts and other cultural events. What I had come to see, however, was the rooftop garden that I had heard about from other visitors. Escorted by a sister missionary, I was overwhelmed by what we found!
You can also grab a bite to eat next door at the Lion House, if you’ve arranged a catered event. The house, built in in 1856, was the former home of Brigham Young, the second president of The LDS Church and the first governor of the state of Utah. Named for the lion statue located over the front entryway, the Lion House is decorated with beautiful antique furniture and has the capacity to host a variety of events.
As the day was drawing to a close, I noticed that long lines had formed in the middle of the square. Apparently, on Thursday nights, the Mormon Tabernacle Choir holds practice sessions. As tempting as that was, it was the end of a long day, I was in need of nourishment and the lines seemed endless!
Over the years, many renovations have been completed, including the addition of a new altar, movement of the bishop’s chair, the addition of a separate chapel for the Blessed Sacrament and a more ample baptismal font. Though the baptismal font was dry, I was able to visit the new chapel in which the casket of the Lawrence Scanlan, was placed, as per his request. On top of the casket is a reliquary containing a small piece of Saint Mary Madeline making the Cathedral one of only two in the world to contain a first class relic of the saint that the Cathedral is named for.
Masses are said in both English and Spanish many times a week and it is my understanding that tickets for the choral concerts are a hot commodity. The Cathedral, home to the only co-educational Catholic Choir School in the United States (established in 1996), has over 350 students from Pre-Kindergarten through Eighth Grade. Performing over 9,000 hours every year in the Cathedral as well as concert series, the choristers take part in tours throughout the world in addition, to singing regularly with local arts organizations, including the Utah Symphony and The Morman Tabernacle Choir.
The Zappeion’s construction was started in 1874 and designed by Danish architect Theophil Hansen. Opened on October 20, 1888, it’s main purpose was to serve as building for the Olympic games, first acting as a venue for the fencing competitions, during the 1896 Summer Olympics. Later, the building was used as the Olympic Village (1906) and then served as the first host for the organizing committee (ATHOC) for the 2004 Olympic Games from 1998 to 1999. It also served as the press center during the 2004 games.
Just outside the Zappeion, be sure to look for the statue of Evangelos Zappas. Buried underneath this statue is his head. There are approximately 70 other statues and works of art in the gardens immediately surrounding the Zappeion, including statues of Lord Byron and the Zappas cousins, who funded the construction of the building.
After walking around the building and through its own park, I finally entered the Athen’s National Garden, a peaceful oasis within the hustle and bustle of the ancient city.
While exploring the gardens near the Vasilissis Sophias Avenue entrance make sure to look for the remains of the Roman floor. Uncovered during nineteenth century excavations at a depth of one meter, the well-preserved floor belonged to a the courtyard of a Roman villa.
Other attractions within the gardens are a conservatory, where plants are cultivated before being planted in the garden, a children’s library and a small cafe where you can grab a drink or snack and refresh in the green surroundings. The entrance is located on Irodou Attikou Street. There is also a library containing two reading rooms, a fairy tale room, a music room and a film room. The library’s collections boasts 6,000 publications.
An important landmark in Athens, take a short walk from the central square and check it out while enroute to the other attractions in the area…the Temple of Zeus, the National Gardens and the Panathenaic Stadium.
The construction of this temple was begun in the 6th century by Pisistratus, the son of Hippocrates, also known as the Tyrant of Athens, who desired to pay tribute to the Olympian Zeus (originating from his position as head of the Olympian gods). Due to a lack of funding and the disestablishment of his son in 510 BC, construction ceased. Other attempts were made to finish the temple, by the Macedonians and Anthiochus, however, there was no completion until the Emperor Hadrian made the effort seven hundred years later.
Though the site is not extensive, take some time to enjoy the ruins and make sure not to miss the archaeological site on the edge of the property, highlighting some ancient structures uncovered there. Not one of the sites that most people aspire to visit, you can often find it uncrowded and enjoyable and you are able to obtain nice photos, especially in the afternoon when the sun hits the columns, almost making them glow against the perpetually cerulean sky. You can also combine your visit with a quick stop to Hadrian’s Arch located just outside the gates of the temple.
Our first stop, the beautiful Torre de Belém. Sitting in the middle of the water, on a small island, it is accessible by bridge. Built in the 16th century, this fortified tower was once a part of the defense system at the mouth of the Tagus river and a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was commissioned by King John II and is composed of a bastion and a four story tower built in the Portuguese Manueline style.
As I took picture after picture, I realized that this beautiful structure reminded me of a sandcastle still standing even after the tide has surrounded it. Though I would have liked to tour the tower, it was getting late, there was a line and my travel partners were not interested in waiting. Reluctantly, I walked away to discover the other monuments in the area, knowing that I would have to make this a priority when I returned.
The next monument along the shore was the Monumento aos Combatentes do Ultramar. Similar to the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, D.C., this monument pays tribute to those who fought in the Portuguese War in Africa, from 1961-1974. Both striking and somber, the monument, designed by artists Carlos Guerrero and Batista Barros, is comprised of three distinctive sections…the flame, the monument and the memorial wall. While the flame burns eternally, you can take note of over 9,000 names of the fallen inscribed alphabetically and by year on the marble wall behind it. Standing in the shallow pool, are two large angled pillars jutting out above the flame.
A small chapel is located inside in the monument and there is a museum adjacent which focuses on Portuguese Overseas Wars, the modern Portuguese military and World War I objects. There is also a tomb of an unknown soldier from this war, brought from Guinea-Bissau.
The monument, erected in 1960, celebrates the Portuguese Age of Discovery during the 15th and 16th centuries when Porgual dominated the sea trade between the continents. Observing a design originally conceived by Jose Angelo Cottineli Telmo and then Antonio Pardal Monteiro, the structure was adorned with thirty-four sculptures by Leopoldo de Almeida, including Vasco de Gama and Ferdinand Magellan. The main statue of Henry the Navigator, as well as the others, represent those who have contributed to Portugal’s reputation in the age of discoveries; poets, explorers, navigators, crusaders and mapmakers.
Though we did not enter the structure, we were informed that it is divided into three levels. The ground floor covers the history of Lisbon, the second has two exhibition halls and four other rooms on the third floor. The top of the monument is accessible and used as a watchtower.
The festival’s main idea is to bring together the entire peninsula and increase the awareness of its unique culture and traditions, especially with the incorporation of the pagan masks which are common in the Spanish and Portuguese cultures. Besides the regional groups participating, this year’s parade included Boi Tinga from Brazil and The Mummers from Ireland.
After the parade was over, we followed the crowds into Jardim de Belém discovering dozens of stands showcasing local products such as wine, cheese, chocolates and handicrafts. Grabbing a beer and a delicious prosciutto and cheese sandwich, we acquired seats at a picnic table and enjoyed our dinner in the late afternoon sunshine while local performers entertained us on the nearby stage.
You will also notice many tuk tuks throughout the city. A common and cheap mode of transportation in Asia, the tuk tuk was introduced to Portugal a few years ago. Popular with tourists, for their availability and for their ease of travel through the narrow streets, you can find them outside of most attractions. Beware, however…the price you pay in Asia is not what you pay in Lisbon.
Enjoy the view. There are many overlooks throughout the city. For the most breathtaking views, head over to the Elevador de Santa Justa, an historic attraction that connects the lower streets of the Baixa with the higher Largo do Carmo. Built in the 19th century and the only remaining vertical lift, it provides an invaluable service by eliminating the steep climb up Carmo Hill.
Miradouro da Graça is situated on the hill of Santo André and overlooks many old neighborhoods like Mouraria, Alfama, the downtown area, Castelo Saõ Jorge, the river and 25th April Bridge. Here, you can enjoy a drink in the esplanade facing Lisbon’s roofs and try to identify the many monuments and landmarks below. If Tram 28 is too crowded, catch bus 712 (Marquês de Pombal) or 726 and disembark at Sapadores for a short walk.
Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara provides views over to the castle and a little market offering nice souvenirs and food and beer stalls. It is easy to access on foot from Bairro Alto or from Rossio below via the Ascensor da Gloria.
Have a treasure hunt. So, not really in the sense you may be thinking. Portuguese tiles, or azulegos, were introduced during Moorish times and adorn dozens of buildings throughout the city. Be on the lookout for these vibrant decorations, especially in the neighborhoods of Alfama, Chiado and Cais do Sodré. If you don’t feel like seeking these tiles out on your own and would like to inspect them at a closer distance, head out to the Museu Nacional Do Azulejo which is filled with tiles of all colors and sizes, some dating back to the 15th century. If discovering how these tiles are made is what you are after, you can also learn about the process here. If money is no object, you can book at stay at the 
With so much to do in this Portuguese capitol, there’s probably not enough time to tackle them all. So, you may have to return…so then you can say,
A restaurant is located here on the promenade and wine vendors offer Portuguese samplings to quench your thirst in the hot, sunny afternoons.
Making our way into the interior of the structure, we marveled at the towering walls and walked along the ramparts admiring both the views and the wind whipping the country’s flags.
Ruins of older structures and a cistern were visible in the courtyard as well as a small door on the northern wall called the Door of Treason which allowed secret messengers to enter or exit as needed. Take a moment to have a seat in one of the garden areas and admire the many pieces of sculptures that adorn the premises. The gardens of Castelo de St. Jorge is a place to be cherished as it is one of the only remaining green spaces in Lisbon where native species of the Portuguese forest hold court. Here, visitors can observe trees such as cork oaks, carobs, strawberry, umbrella pines and various fruit trees.
While there are other, more beautiful and more preserved castles throughout the country, Castelo de St. Jorge is easy to reach and is rich in history. More importantly, with its prominent location high above the city, it is the perfect place to start your exploration of the Portuguese capital.
After arriving at the Tung Chung station, we made our way out to the Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car station across the street. Taking our place in the line that had already begun to form, we eventually purchased a combo ticket offering round-trip transportation in the cable car, entrance to the Ngong Ping village and bus transportation from Ngong Ping to the Tai O fishing village.
Although we enjoyed the village and all that it had to offer, I must admit, after many years of taking my children to theme parks, I decided that Ngong Ping village exhibited a too much of a theme-park atmosphere. Glad that this was not all that we had come for, we were anxious to experience the Po Lin Monastery and the Tian Tan Buddha, both a short walk from the village.
The Big Buddha can be spied from the cable car while approaching Ngong Ping village as well as during your walk from the village. Nothing prepares you, however, for its magnitude, especially while gazing up at the effigy from the base of the hill.
Climbing the 268 steps up the hill to reach the Buddha is definitely a test of one’s physical fitness. Though I work out a couple of times a week, I found myself stopping occasionally to rest, reminding myself of the reward waiting at the top. As I languished in the shade of one of the many urns on the stairway, I found myself wondering what those who were unable to climb would do in order to appreciate the statue from a closer perspective. I later learned that the site also features a small winding road for vehicles to accommodate the handicapped.
Since we did not purchase an offering for the Buddha, we were not allowed to see the Buddha’s most esteemed element, the relic of Gautama Buddha, which consists of some of his alleged cremated remains. There are also three floors beneath the statue, the halls of the Universe, of Benevolent Merit and of Remembrance, which we were under the impression that we were not allowed to visit since we did not purchase admission at the base of the stairway. We did peek inside, however, pictures were strictly forbidden. The thought crossed my mind to make the long climb down and back up again, in order to have admission, but as time was limited, we decided against it.
Another amazing feature under the Buddha is a huge bell inscribed with images of Buddhas and is designed to ring every seven minutes, 108 times a day, symbolizing the release of 108 kinds of human vexations. I must admit, however, I did not know this fact during our visit and do not remember hearing the bell ring.
After admiring the view one more time (and taking a peek at my watch to make sure we were still on schedule), I prepared myself for the long climb down.