Tag: island

Foggy Days

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Standing atop the highest point in Cuttyhunk, I looked down past the oyster ponds to the beaches of the West End at a stone tower perched alone on an arm of the island.

With a little investigation, I learned that this stone tower was the Cuttyhunk Monument, dedicated to the island’s founder, Bartholomew Gosnold.

In 1602, Gosnold sailed toward the Americas with the intent to set up a new colony and trading post. After brief stops in Maine and Provincetown, he then landed on Elizabeth’s Isle, known today as the island of Cuttyhunk.

Gosnold, a lawyer, traveled in high circles, practicing law with Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Walter Drake and enjoying regular performances by Shakespeare. It has also been speculated that he had ties to the Knights Templar and may have been trying to find their settlement on Narragansett Bay.

After a successfully harvesting a ton of sassafras, known for its healing properties, cedar timbers and furs, the settlement was disbanded and the group set off to return to England. Though Gosnold didn’t realize the colony that he set out to establish, he left his mark on the area. He is credited with naming Cape Cod because of the abundance of cod in its waters and Martha’s Vineyard for his deceased infant daughter and his wife’s grandmother, Martha Golding, as well as the wild grapes growing there. It is believed that he introduced the wheelbarrow to the New World and that Shakespeare’s play, The Tempest, may have been based on the documentation kept by Gosnold and his companions. Gosnold, continued his explorations and was part of the group responsible for the first English colony at Jamestown.

In 1902, construction of a 70 foot stone tower was initiated as a tribute to Bartholomew Gosnold on the spot where it was believed he set up the island’s first settlement. The monument was completed and dedicated on September 1, 1903.

When staying with my friend a couple of years ago, I read a small article about the the Cuttyhunk Monument. Remembering this article, I vowed that I was going to head out to the West End of the island to see this monument up close and personal.

One day, we set out for the long walk to the West End. Having spoken with a couple of other residents, we were warned to check the tide schedule as the water crosses the path between the two salt ponds, that leads to the beach. After we arrived, however, the fog rolled in quickly and we couldn’t see a thing.

A few more days passed and my time in Cuttyhunk was coming to a close. I was determined to make it out to get a better view of the monument. During the early morning, I woke up to a dense fog covering the island. Deciding that our adventure was just not going to happen, I closed my eyes and burrowed down deeper under the covers. Strangely enough, when I awoke later, the sun was shining and we decided to give it a try.

The day was hot and the dirt road a bit rocky and uneven. We continued our quest and as we came upon a hill, we were able to look through the clearing to a clear beach…and the monument! Wow! We were going to get a good view!

Trudging down the hill, we passed through the tall sea grass and tiptoed over the stones that separated the oyster ponds. We could see the monument to our left, but there was something else. The fog was rolling in!

Quickly, we made our way to the beach, walking in the direction of the monument and praying that this bout of fog was going to disperse. I have to say, I never gave up on that idea, but sadly, even though it thinned at times, it never really cleared. I guess the bright side was that I could still see the monument through the fog, yet, it wasn’t conducive to the beautiful photographs I had dreamed of. I must admit, however, this gloom, no matter how rarified, lent a creepy atmosphere, one that I could imagine the first settlers encountered when first stepping foot on this spot. I could almost imagine the native settlers standing on the point, waiting to greet the newcomers.

Sitting there on a large boulder, smelling the salty air, my imagination began to wander. What was it like landing here for the first time? Exciting, yet frightening, I am sure.

Wait, was that a ghost, standing on the point? The ghost of Bartholomew Gosnold?

All of this fog was really getting to me…it was just a fisherman hoping for some of the Atlantic Cod.

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Cuttyhunk Monument

  • Address: West End, Cuttyhunk, Massachusetts
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily and depending on the tides
  • Admission: free

All Washed Up

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Everyone loves a good treasure hunt.

Especially on a beach…

The best part is that everyone’s idea of treasure is in the eye of the beholder.

Recently, with COVID19 restricting travel, I found myself with a lot of free time on my hands. Normally, in June, I am home only about a third of the month, with conventions, training and other events that take me away. This year, being unable to commute to work due to the loss of so many flights, I found myself wandering aimlessly around my home, looking for things to do, browsing my travel photos and just generally missing my usual lifestyle.

Sometimes, however, when one door is closed, another opens.

One of my best friends owns a house on the island of Cuttyhunk, just off of the coast of New Bedford, Massachusetts. Every year, she opens her house at the end of May for the summer and every year, the invitation is extended for me to visit.

Because of the ferry schedule, Cuttyhunk isn’t the easiest place to travel to and only once in recent years was I able to work it out. Two summers ago, a few of our friends and I, were able to go out for a quick weekend getaway. Though we enjoyed our visit, it was too early during the season (and still too cool) to see what summers on the island entail.

As I struggled with being home for such a great length of time, Kathie reached out and asked if I would be interested in keeping her company for a while on the island.

Mindful of the cool weather I had experienced beforehand, it was an exercise in balancing my summer wardrobe with pieces that could still keep me warm for those crazy days when the ocean winds decided otherwise.

After finally making my way north and an uneventful ferry ride, I learned that being there in mid June gives you a new perspective. Things certainly were different than on my first visit!

There was lots more activity. More people. More boats in the harbor.

And the best part, for a warm-weather loving person like myself, it was bathing suit and beach weather! Well…on most days!

There are quite a few beaches that surround the island and we made sure to take our daily walks on them all.

My favorite part was how much the beaches changed shape every day due to the tides, currents and waves. It was interesting to find that while some beaches were rocky one day, they were sandy the next and you never would know what might have washed in overnight.

Kathie was always on the lookout for beach glass. Always amazed at how she could spot the tiniest pieces, I instead focused my attention on driftwood and shells, with my ultimate goal of putting it together to form some sort of artpiece.

As we traversed the mile and half long by three quarters wide island, we poked the soft sand and seaweed, strolled along the waters edge and analyzed the tide pools along Channel, Church, West End and Barges Beaches. Crab traps lay half buried in the sand, and crabs and other crustaceans, both live and dead, small and large, could be spotted everywhere we walked. Barnacles and and long seaweed fingers clung to the side of the boulders and lengths of rope, of all circumferences and colors lay knotted around pieces of driftwood.

Rubber gloves, which may have fallen from fishing boats, could be spotted and they were usually displayed with great fanfare and sometimes obscene gestures. The fishermen, who mark their traps and fishing spots with buoys, were probably disappointed to find that many of their markers had washed ashore.

There were some interesting seashells and colorful granite rocks ground smooth from years of being subject to the pounding waves.

Looking out to sea, it was always interesting to see the many boats making their way to the island, some from the mainland and some from neighboring Martha’s Vineyard. As we walked along Barges Beach, I mistakenly took the remains of the fourteen barges that litter the shoreline as shipwrecks. In fact, these barges were buried here in 1949 to stabilize the land damaged by a 1944 Nor’easter. Though they are slowing eroding away themselves, they provide a natural habitat for some of the island’s creatures and a place to capture some unique beach shots.

As we walked near the sand dunes, we watched the sandpipers and seagulls soar around us, and the occasional rabbit hop our way.

Every day was a new day.

You never know what you were going to find!

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Cuttyhunk Island

The Fisherman’s Monument

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The port city of New Bedford, Massachusetts, has been the home of countless fisherman for thousands of years.

While I love sailing in and out of this port when traveling to Cuttyhunk Island, I haven’t had much of an opportunity to see what makes up the city itself.

Known as the “The Whaling City” due to its importance in the whaling industry during the nineteenth century, there is a wonderful museum which focuses on the history of the trade. Though I would have loved to have visited this institution, the Covid restrictions had closed it down until further notice.

I wasn’t in town for long…only as long as it took to get groceries and board our boat which was to take us to Cuttyhunk. As I stood guard over our belongings at the New Bedord State Pier, my friends brought over load after load destined for our stay on the island. My attention wandered from the multitude of fishing boats lining the harbor to the occasional passerby. As I finally took a turn carrying one of the many bags from the car, I noticed a statue on the edge of the pier. Taking a quick walk over, I noted the plaque set into the concrete.

The statue, which honors the fishermen of the Port of New Bedford, was installed in this spot on June 30, 2016 and designed by sculptor Erik Durant. The installation depicts the scene of a fishing family consisting of a mother standing near her fisherman husband, who is down on one knee. He holds his daughter in his lap, accepting her hugs, and has his hand on the shoulder of his son, who holds a crew cap.

The monument is quite moving and it is evident that it is one that most families of the area can relate to. With a little research, I learned that the passing of the cap to the son signifies the continuation of the fishing tradition and the clinging daughter represents the regret of the separation that the family has when the father is away. The woman stands behind the father and the children, representing those who stay behind while the fisherman are at sea.

So, I didn’t get to take a quick tour of the whaling museum, however, I stumbled upon something more significant.

One that represents the fishermen of both the past and present.

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The Fisherman’s Monument

  • Address: 49 State Pier, New Bedford, Massachusetts, 02740
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: Free

The First Shots

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There was one thing that I wanted to do while in Charleston but it can sometimes be tricky during the winter.

Fort Sumter.

Less frequent boat schedules and colder weather are sometimes off-putting, so, when I noticed that temperatures were going to be unseasonably warm while I would be in Charleston, I decided that my plan would be a “go”.

Armed with a few layers and an umbrella (just in case), I headed over to the Liberty Square with an intent to catch the afternoon boat. Though it is recommended to purchase tickets in advance during the busier months, I found no problem in purchasing one at the last minute at the National Park Visitor Center.

The Visitor Center offers information about the Fort and its history to browse before boarding the boat and I read through the information while awaiting our boarding time.

The boat, a pseudo paddle wheeler, soon pulled adjacent to the pier. Taking a spot in the front of the boat, I enjoyed the breezy thirty minute ride to the island.

Once we arrived, we were given sixty minutes to tour the fort and the island. National Parks rangers greeted us at the pier and instructed those wanting to take part in the close-of-the-day flag ceremony to follow them to the upper part of the fort. Interesting as that sounded, I was more interested in taking unobstructed photographs, so I used this time, while others were occupied, to walk around the fort.

Construction began on the fort in 1829 and was named for Revolutionary War general and South Carolina native, Thomas Sumter. The fort was one of fifty built as part of a coastal defense program implemented by Congress in 1817 and was erected on a man-made island entirely formed from thousands of tons of granite. It was the site of the Battle of Fort Sumter in 1861, where a thirty-four hour exchange of artillery fire…the first shots of the Civil War…let to a surrender and the occupation by Confederate troops. After the Civil War, the fort was restored by the U.S. military and occupied during the Spanish-American War (1898), World War I (1914-1918) and World War II (1939-1945). In 1948, the fort was decommissioned as a military post and turned over to the National Park Service as a National Historic Site.

Although the fort is built on an 2.4 acre island, there is much to discover including the Powder magazine (where Fort Sumter’s powder was stored) the Gorge Wall (the lightly-armed rear wall facing inland) the Battery Huger (named for War hero, Isaac Huger) and a small museum highlighting the fort’s history and items from its occupation. There are a large number and variety of cannons throughout the property and on the top level, a beautiful view of the bay and Fort Johnson, the site where the first shots of the Civil War were fired from.

An hour goes by pretty quickly and after I had captured my last photograph, the rangers were ushering us out to the waiting boat prepared to take us back to Liberty Square. As the sun was going down, so was the temperature and it was nice to take a seat inside, especially since they were now serving adult beverages!

Nothing like a good adult beverage on a sunset cruise!

That’s what is so great about a visit to Fort Sumter…it’s a two-for-one tour! You not only get a lesson on Civil War history, you get a cruise of the harbor, complete with after-hour beverages. You can even step it up and add to the theme! Have a “shot”!!!

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Fort Sumter

  • https://www.nps.gov/fosu/index.htm
  • Address: 340 Concord Street, Charleston, SC 29401
  • Hours: Ferry Schedule, See Below. National Park Visitor Center, 0830-1700
  • Admission: Adults (ages 12-61), $24, Seniors and Active Military (62+/Military ID), $22, Children (ages 4-11), $16, Infant (ages under 3), free

Fort Sumter Boat Schedule

DateLiberty Square – Downtown CharlestonPatriots Point – Mount Pleasant
Jan 2 – Feb 2811:00 am, 2:30 pm1:00 pm
Mar 1 – Mar 149:30 am, 12:00 pm & 2:30 pm10:30 am, 1:00 pm
Mar 15-Aug 20 & Labor Day Weekend9:30 am, 12:00 pm, 2:30 pm & 4:00 pm10:30 am, 1:00 pm & 3:30 pm**
Aug 21 – Nov 309:30 am, 12:00 pm & 2:30 pm10:30 am, 1:00 pm
Dec 1 – Dec 2411:00am, 2:30 pm1:00 pm
Dec 26 – Dec 319:30 am, 12:00 pm & 2:30 pm10:30 am, 1:00 pm
Thanksgiving, Dec 25 & Jan 1Fort ClosedFort Closed

Capri Is the Place to Be!

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

During the height of the summer, Capri is the place to be…and we were there!

We were on one of the coolest islands in Italy and there was so much to explore and discover.

Despite being able to visit one of the main attractions on the island upon our arrival, it had eaten up a great portion of our precious time. Heading to the Funicular, we purchased tickets and waiting to board the railway up the mountainside to the Piazza Umberto I, in the center of the island.

Crowded and hot, we were still able to secure a spot near the window to watch the passing scenery. Exiting the tight cars, we stood along the gallery and gazed out at the island and the Marina Grande below.

Walking through the Piazza Umberto I, with its classic clock tower, we imagined that this was where we might spot Oprah or Brad Pitt that evening, as we had heard they were both moored off of the island. Entering the small alleyways, we passed Chiesa San Stefano, the prominent baroque Catholic church that houses Capri’s town hall in its old bishop quarters. The church was not open, so we continued on to the southern part of the island.

Passing the many high-end boutiques, shops, restaurants and homes, we eventually found ourselves at the Certosa di San Giacomo (St. James Charterhouse), the 14th century Carthusian monastery.

Built in 1371 by Giacomo Arcucci (who later became a monk of the order), on land donated by Queen Giovanna I of Angio, the Charterhouse of San Giacomo is the oldest historic building on the island of Capri.

Gaining our entrance at the office near the fortified tower, we made our way through the complex which is comprised of three blocks of buildings. The first building offered us a look at a unique art collection of the Diefenbach Museum (est. 1975) which included the works of German painter Karl Wilhelm Diefenbach.

Continuing through the complex, we discovered the Chiostro Piccolo (small cloister), which was added during the sixteenth century and the Chiostro Grande with its limestone pillars. It was here around the grand cloister that the monks cells were located as well as the Quarto del Priore used for temporary exhibitions.

Making our way through the gardens, we found them to be a bit overgrown, but the reward was at the cliffside where we had the most magnificent views of the coastline and the sea.

Here was Brad Pitt and Oprah’s yachts…or so we thought! Some of the biggest boats I had ever lain eyes on were docked in the azur waters that surrounded the island. So beautiful were the sights below us, we sat here in the sunshine, just enjoying the moment of the day!

Eventually, we made our way back toward the monastery and the large, open church where ancient frescoes can be seen on the walls and ceiling.

As our visit came to a close, we decided that we wanted to enjoy the waters up close that we had seen from above. Taking the funicular back to the Marina Grande, we walked to the small, rocky beach, Cala Grande.

Although there was so much more to see…Anacapri, Mount Solaro and its chairlift, Grotto Verde, Arco Naturale, Villas and countless overlooks…it was impossible to experience it all. It was nice to just give in to the island’s natural beauty and enjoy the remainder of the afternoon, soaking up the late afternoon sun.

Sometimes that’s what you have to do. Enjoy what you’ve been given and just “be”.

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Funicolare di Capri

St. James Charterhouse

The Isle of Capri

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When reading the tabloids, it is always fun to read about the awesome places that celebrities dock their yachts while on vacation!

While I would just love to have a small sailboat to dock in these locations, even for a day, I thought it would be fun to head out to one of those islands and see where those multi-million dollar yachts are anchored. Capri, located in the Tyrrhenian Sea has been a resort since the time of the Roman Republic and is a place where celebrity spotting becomes sport, especially in the square in the evenings as they leave their expensive floating homes for some ground time.

The ferry to Capri was located just down the block from our hotel and easy to get to, so we decided to make that one of our day’s destinations. Purchasing our tickets quickly, we were on the next departing ferry and forty-five minutes later pulling into Capri’s Marina Grande.

Our first views of Capri’s harbor were stunning! It would have been tempting to just take a seat along the waterfront to take in the scenery but we were on a mission and there was a lot to see before catching our departing ferry that evening.

One of the main attractions that we wanted to mark off of our list was the Blue Grotto (Grotto Azzurra), a cave-like cavity within the islands rocky parapets. Once inside the grotto, the sunlight entering the opening beneath the inlet passage give an intense azur color to the water. Spotting the ticket booth for the Blue Grotto boat tours, I knew that there were two ways to visit this primary attraction; bus and boat. Since the boats were departing here, it seemed like the logical choice to take the boat and after the boarding was complete, we headed out of the harbor and along the island’s northern coast.

The fifteen minute ride offered up beautiful views of the villas that top the high rocky cliffs that make up much of the island’s coastline. Finally spotting a cluster of boats, we realized that we had arrived at the Blue Grotto. Jockeying for position, we began to analyze the situation…there were a lot of boats, with a lot of people…waiting to board a small number of rowboats to gain entry into the cave.

Every time our captain moved our boat, we somehow thought we might be closer to our time to board one of the rowboats. Spying the buses dropping visitors at the top of the cliff and those visitors making their way down the wooden stairway, we began to notice that because of their proximity to the cave’s entrance and dedicated rowboats, their wait was quite short. Watching their quick movement and continually counting the boats around us, we realized that our stay here would be lengthy.

It was an extremely hot and sunny day and we had limited shade on our boat. We suddenly realized that although our boat ride to the Blue Grotto was cool and picturesque, maybe we should have taken the bus. After an hour and a half of tortuous waiting, the rowboats finally began to approach our boat. Deftly stepping into the tender, our boatman guided us over to the craft where the cave entrance admission was collected. After gathering our tickets, we headed toward the opening, our gondolier instructing us to lay down into the bottom of the boat. Pulling us through the tight opening with a guide rope, it took a few minutes for our eyes to adjust to the darkness all around us.

There were no fewer than ten other boats making their way around the small cave’s perimeter (25 meters wide and 60 meters long). As our boatman turned our craft towards the entrance, we gazed in awe at the fluorescent color of the water. An awesome sight! Our time was inside was short and before we knew it, we were laying down at the bottom of the boat to make our way outside, back to our waiting shuttle and to Marina Grande.

Checking our watches, we realized that much of our time on Capri had been devoted to that one activity. Grabbing a quick lunch, we then headed back to the ferry ticket booths. Thankfully, with the help of a kind ticket agent, we were able to switch our return tickets to Naples to ones leaving a couple of hours later…giving us some more precious time on the island.

Glad for our reprieve we decided not to waste any more time. Capri had so much more to see!

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Blue Grotto

  • https://www.excursionboatsorrento.com/en/everything-about-the-blue-grotto/?gclid=CjwKCAjwxt_tBRAXEiwAENY8hXwlP3bstmpEHSuPz0YOMQIlS9MBHN3l9GEYmGrT1ruIfxHPY2IeBBoC2ykQAvD_BwE
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily. The grotto is closed to visitors during rough seas or high winds, and it’s always closed on December 25th and January 1st.
  • Admission: Shared boat service, 10€ plus cave entrance (cash only) paid prior to entering, 4€. Tip is expected from the boatmen. Children under the age of 6, cave entrance, free. Citizens of European Union under the age of 18, cave entrance, free. Citizens of European Union between the ages of 18 and 25, 50% reduction on cave entrance.
  • Getting There: Private boat (boat rentals located near Marina Grande. Shared boat service. Bus, from Anacapri, stop located 50 meters from Piazza Vittoria. On foot from Anacapri, follow Viale T. de Tommaso, Via Pagliaro and Via Grotta Azzurra (3.5 km).


The Grand Finale

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Naxos was such an unexpected pleasure.

When we had made the decision to visit a couple of the Greek islands, Naxos was definitely not on my radar. If it had not been for the suggestion of a friend, I am not even sure that we would have chosen it over the many others that dot the Aegean Sea.

That being said, we had done and seen most of what we had set out to and enjoyed every bit of it, however, I still felt as though there was more to be discovered.

After our trip to the islet of Palatia to see Apollo’s Temple, my husband and son decided to head to the hotel for a nap before our ferry’s departure that afternoon. Camera in hand, I headed back into the alleys and pathways to see what more I could find in Naxos’ Old Town.

Now when I think back to our time in Naxos, I fondly remember the beautiful mountains and beaches, but what stands out in my mind is the intricacies of the Old Town. I absolutely adored just wandering the narrow passageways and picturesque harbor, discovering a photo around every corner.

As I headed past the port to make my way back up the hill, I noticed a modest, white-washed church standing alone on a small island. Panagia Myrtidiotissa is a small chapel built by the fishermen of Tsirigo and Kythira who survived a storm outside of Naxos and is only accessible by boat. As I sat on a bench, wishing I could make my way there, I watched a fisherman work on his vessel, all the while under the protecting eye of this historic church. If you happen to be in Naxos on September 24, make sure to not miss the celebratory feast honoring the church and the mariners of the island.

Knowing that we had missed the Catholic Church’s opening times the day before, I headed up the hill, in that direction, and discovered that I was still a bit early.

Around the corner, however, I noticed a sign directing me to the Casazza Chapel or the Chapel of the Duke of Naxos (also known as the Chapel of Sanoudos). Only having to wait a few minutes for its opening, I entered a beautifully decorated structure. Since I wasn’t sure of the history of the chapel, it was fortunate that the woman who unlocked the doors for us was an American and we could speak freely. She explained that the chapel was built in the 13th or 14th century by Duke Markos Sanoudos and continued to operate as the chapel of all Dukes of Naxos. Completed in 1680, the chapel was dedicated to the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin and later operated as the church of the Jesuits upon their arrival.

Leaving the Chapel of the Duke of Naxos, I passed near a doorway where an older gentleman was sitting. He beckoned to me and invited me in. Not sure what I was being invited to see (and a little nervous), I entered and found a small Orthodox chapel. It was colorful and well appointed even though occupying such a tiny space. Though I never learned what this chapel was, as he did not speak English, I could tell that he was proud of it and as I watched, he continued to invited all passersby to step in and admire the chapel.

Finally, making my way back to the cathedral in the central square, I found it open and entered eagerly. Though the church is relatively small, it is the most important temple of the castle in Naxos.

Exhibiting Byzantine and Western influences, the cathedral was built in the 13th century. There are some small chapels within the five-aisled, three domed structure and the floor is constructed of marble embossed with the coat of arms of the Duke of Naxos. The central aisle boasts an wood altar crafted by Tagiadoroi from Chios from 1774 and a painting of the Panagia Eleousa (Our Lady the Merciful) dating from the 11th or 12th century.

As you examine the outside of the cathedral, make sure to take note of the four coats of arms, including those of Markos Sanoudos, and the striking bell tower constructed in 1963 by John Filippoti.

Other notable religious buildings in the area include the building of the Catholic Archdiocese (13th century) which houses a collection of architectural parts, relics, folklore material, engravings, icons and ecclesiastical utensils, the old Jesuit Commercial School and the old Ursaline Academy for Girls.

Continuing my adventure through the maze of walkways and paths of the Old Town, I meandered slowly examining stairways, door knockers, signs, souvenirs, artwork, cafes, archways and even found an art gallery showcasing the work of my old friend, Yanni Souvatzoglou, an Athens sculpture artist.

As time dissolved quickly, I knew that I would have to return to the hotel so that we could catch our ferry back to Athens, however, there was just enough time to see one last thing…the Orthodox Cathedral.

The Orthodox Cathedral of Naxos was constructed in 1787 on the site of a smaller church and is dedicated to Zoodochos Pigi, the life-giving Virgin Mary. The cathedral was constructed using materials from other buildings including some ancient temples and it is said that the solid granite pillars were brought from the ruins of Delos.

As I entered the cathedral, I breathed in deeply, taking in the extravagance before me. The excitement of capturing it all was short-lived as I was told that photography was not allowed.

A few, well-placed shots were definitely going to be taken and I made my way around the church admiring the intricate wall paintings and the beautiful icons dating back to Turkish times as well as the Gospel Book, which according to custom, was a present from Catherine the Great of Russia.

Finally, it was time for our time in Naxos to come to an end. As we walked through the town toward the ferry terminal, I took one last look around at the city, the boats in the harbor and the fresh catch of the day drying in the sun.

We would definitely miss this Greek Island that we had grown to love during our short stay. Coming here was definitely unexpected but after seeking out many of the things that make it so special, we were extremely happy that we had taken the chance.

Unexpected and now not unexplored, by us anyway!

The grand finale just whetted our appetite for more…we will be back!

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Panagia Myrtidiotissa

  • Address: Naxos Port, Naxos Town 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: unknown
  • Admission: free

Chapel of the Duke of Naxos (also known as the Chapel of Sanoudos or Casazza Chapel )

Catholic Cathedral of Naxos

Orthodox Cathedral of Naxos

Yanni Souvatzoglou

The Big Fat Greek Island

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

As Greek sunshine flooded our Naxos hotel room, we opened our balcony doors and looked out into the quiet streets, breathing in the salty sea air. It’s amazing to be in the Greek Isles!

After a quick breakfast, we headed into town to explore the multitude of passageways that headed uphill and the Venetian castle that keeps watch over the town. Because of the early hour, many of the shops we passed were not open and as we neared the castle, I was surprised to find it was not the typical castle that I had visited in other cities. What I mean is that I expected a ticket booth and an actual entrance into the fortification. This castle can be accessed wholly without a ticket and if you aren’t really paying attention, you might miss the fact that you are actually on the castle’s grounds as there are so many buildings that make up the complex.

That being said, the castle of Chora is a medieval monument, built by Venetian Duke Markos Sanoudos in 1207. It has two entrances, the Great Gate (Trani Porta) and the Wicket (Paraporti). Inside the castle, there are many medieval buildings such as the boarding school of the Ursulines, the School of Commerce founded by the Jesuit monks, the Kapela Kazatza, a chapel of the Duke, the Catholic Cathedral and the Tower of Krispi or Glezos (housing the Byzantine Museum).

It was an amazing adventure to travel amidst the winding passageways, that snake between the homes, shop and restaurants that make up this area. And believe me…it was not easy making progress as there was a picture to be taken at every turn!

Knowing that there was so much more to see on the island, we headed to a car rental shop and secured a car for the day. Getting out of the city was a bit of a challenge, but once we had traveled a few miles, it was fairly easy navigation.

Traveling through the western part of the island, we passed near the salt lakes where hundreds of windsurfers and kitesurfers meet each day to test their skill. In this area, we also were aware that there were many beautiful beaches, however, our mission was to explore the interior of the island before laying down our towels in the sun.

As we drove through the countryside, passing old windmills high on arid peaks, we soon came to the town of Vivlos, where we noticed one of the historical monument signs. Advertising the location of the Old Wash House that the villagers once used before the advent of Maytag, the site was still in relatively good shape and we could only image the villagers meeting here each day to do their laundry.

Continuing on, we soon found ourselves in Kato Sagri. A ruined building next to a church my eye. Pulling over, we walked around the property which is located at the settlement of Kanakari. The complex consisted of a tower house and bakery, both in ruins, with washers and a water well, formerly used for the needs of the buildings. This area was once used as a gathering point for the inhabitants of the village and the small church of the Annunciation, which is still in excellent condition, has served as a church for both Christian Catholics and Orthodox Christians. There is also a small complex of rooms, Kanakari1656, to rent behind the church offering a private getaway for visitors to the area.

Our next destination was the Temple of Demeter (Dimitras), however, it was nearing lunchtime and we decided to grab a bite to eat at the Cafe Bar Mylos, which sported a couple of old windmills on the premises. Spotting a sign across the road directing visitors to the historic site of Church of Agios Nikolaos, we decided to take a walk down the narrow, dusty road to check it out. A longer walk than we anticipated, we tried to enjoy the warm, clear day and the beauty of the countryside.

After turning onto a small path along a stone fence, we arrived at the small church which is located all alone in a field surrounded by the mountainous beauty. Though we were unable to view the interior, I later learned that it is a single-aisle church with an interior covered by successive layers of frescoes. These frescoes depict the birth and baptism of Jesus with the most recent layer dates back to 1270.

After the long walk back to our car, we resumed our trek to the Temple of Demeter, located not far near the village of Sangri.

The marble temple dedicated to Demeter, the ancient goddess of grain, dates back to the 6th century BC in the classical architectural style. Built near fertile areas, it was used for a religious purpose since the late Mycenaean Era.

Around the 3rd century BC, the temple was turn into a Christian religious center and a small chapel, dedicated to Agios Ioannis, was built on the premises, using marble from the ancient temple. Ruined in the 6th century, it was rebuilt in 1977.

After the remains of the temple were discovered in 1949, excavations lasted almost twenty years, beginning in 1976. Restored to its original glory by German archaeologists in the 1990s, the temple is now open to visitors.

Although a bit of a drive from Naxos Town, the temple is quite beautiful in its natural setting and accessible from its entire perimeter. After we had walked around the temple and checked out the chapel, I then took a walk to the rear of the property, past the ticket booth, to the museum which displays many remnants of the ruins that were not used in the reconstruction.

We continued our drive through the towering mountains in the middle of the island admiring the white-washed towns the cascade down the slopes and the countless churches that dot the countryside. After a quick hike down the side of a steep cliff, I even visited a simple little chapel that offered phenomenal views of the rich island.

Finally, after much driving, we decided that it was time to head to the coast for some much needed relaxation. Beginning at Plaka beach, we took a walk to the water to see what was available. Though the water was relatively calm, clear and blue, it did not appear as though there were any chairs for rent in this area. Driving further up the road, we soon found ourselves at Agia Anna. Here, there was plenty of parking and the water appeared similar to what we had just seen at Plaka Beach. A quick chat with a gentleman on the beach, secured us three beach chairs and an umbrella!

Though the water was pretty chilly, it was wonderful to see how clear it was and the beach was not overly crowded. Many restaurants and a small grocery store across the street provided some nourishment and we proceeded to enjoy the remainder of the afternoon enjoying the views and warmth of the Greek sun.

As the day drew to a close, the realization that our time in Naxos was coming to an end and yet, I felt as though there was so much more see on this “great big fat greek island”!

What an unexpected surprise!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Old Wash House

  • Address: Βίβλος 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Site of Kanakari

  • Address: Κανακάρι, Sangrí 843 00, Greece

Cafe Bar Mylos

  • Address: Άνω Σαγκρί 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: unknown

Aghios Nikolaos

  • Address: Naxos 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: interior not open to public

Temple of Demeter

  • Address: Drimalia 843 02, Greece
  • Hours: 0900-1600, closed Tuesday
  • Admission: 4€
  • Getting There: By car, from Hora, follow the road to Filoti. After about 6 miles turn onto the road signposted for Ano Sangri and the Temple of Demeter. Follow the signs for about 2 more miles to the temple.

Next? Naxos!

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

With so many Greek islands to choose from, how do you decide which to visit?

Although my family and I knew that we wanted to visit Santorini, we had no clue where to go after that.

A friend, who had recently visited three islands, suggested her itinerary of two nights in each Santorini, Mykonos and Paros. We contemplated these but hearing her stories about the expense of Mykonos, we decided that we wanted something a little more laid back and less costly.

Having spotted another friend’s posts on Facebook, I sent her a message inquiring about her recent vacation on the island of Naxos. Her response was overwhelmingly positive and after sending me a list of restaurants, hotels and things to do, we decided that this would be our destination.

Naxos, the largest of the islands of the Cyclades, lies north of Santorini and was once the seat of the Ducat of the Aegean and has been continuously inhabited since the 4th milennium BC. The most fertile of the Greek Islands, Naxos is a major producer of olive oil, potatoes, spoon sweets, the island’s famous liqueur, Kitron, wine and cheeses. It is famous for its wide variety of cultural events, traditional fairs. The island also offers colorful mountain villages, traditional windmills, breathtaking hiking and biking trails and some of the most beautiful beaches in the Greece.

The ferry from Santorini to Naxos, was a quick hour and ten minutes and before we knew it, we were pulling up to a quaint ferry port backed by a town built into the hillside, topped with an imposing Venetian castle.

It was a quick walk to our hotel and after checking in, we decided to spend the afternoon at Saint George’s Beach, just around the corner.

A popular beach which lays southwest of Naxos Town, Saint George’s Beach is named after the small chapel of Saint George which lies at its northern end. We found the waters to be extremely calm and relatively clear, though darker in nature, and the sands were soft, yet more of a dingy gray than any beach we had ever visited.

Making our way down the beach past the many restaurants that line the area, we finally decided on a place with a large number of vacant umbrellas and sun-beds for rent. Here, we relaxed for the remainder of the day, enjoying cold beers, snacks and great music.

As sunset approached, we headed into town to one of the bars facing the harbor to watch the amazing evening spectacle, so different and yet, so similar to those we had eyed each evening while in Santorini.

Finally, as the day came to a close, with the sun dipping beyond the horizon, we headed to one of the many restaurants rimming the harbor. The aroma of fresh, grilled seafood filled the air as we discussed our plans for the next day, which would start with us venturing through the narrow alleys and stairways up to the castle. We were then going to rent a car and see what lies beyond the main town.

Caves, beaches, churches, mountains, windmills, villages…

Naxos…a new place to explore!!! I couldn’t wait!

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Saint George’s Beach

So Much Santorini…So Little Time

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

It was our last day in Santorini.

How do you squeeze in a gazillion things into only so many daylight hours?

We had some ideas of places we wanted to visit…the Ancient Site of Thera for sure…maybe the beaches in Perissa or Kamari.

As we drove toward the town of Perissa, we stared in wonder at the large groups of tourists who stood, patiently waiting for the local bus. Where were they all going? Probably other beaches, judging from their tropical attire.

We were heading to where they were heading away from…the village of Perissa.

Perissa, located on the southeastern edge of Santorini, is a coastal village where the ancient city of Elefsina was believed to have been located. At the base of Mesa Vouno mountain, the small village is known for its beautiful blue waters, black lava sand and wide array of restaurants and accommodations.

As we drove into the village, the first thing I noticed was the Tlimios Stavros with its blue dome and impressive bell tower. Once we had found a place to park, we walked over to the church to take a look. Most of the churches we had visited had been open, however, we found this one locked and we were forced to admire is architectural beautify from outside. The village was quite charming, filled with lots of souvenirs and we made a mental note to return in the evening to enjoy one of the many restaurants that lined the beach area.

As I gazed up at Mesa Vouno, movement caught my eye. People were walking up a steep path towards the summit! I knew the site of Ancient Thera was located on the mountain, but I had not realized that you could climb from Perissa. High on the mountainous slopes, I also spotted the white-washed chapel of Panagia Katefiani. Could I make it all the way?

After talking with a local in one of the shops, I learned that we could drive back to Pyrgos and then head toward Kamari. There, we would find the road that leads to Ancient Thera, complete with parking and we would not have to climb the entire way up the mountain. Pressed for time, this would be our option.

A short while later, we were making the harrowing drive from Kamari to Ancient Thera…2.3 kilometers with 22 hairpin switchbacks. Taking our cue from other drivers, we proceeded carefully and stopped at each switchback to blow the horn at descending traffic. A little worse for the wear, we finally arrived at our destination.

After purchasing our tickets, we began our climb to the summit of Ancient Thera, the 11th century BC Dorian settlement that exhibits remains from Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine periods as well as amazing views of Kamari on one side and Perissa, Perivolos, Fira and Oia from the other. And on clear days, you can also see some of the neighboring islands!

The existence of Ancient Thera is one of the most important pieces of Santorini’s history. After excavations began in 1986, it was revealed that a settlement stretching from northwest to southwest, was split by a central street with many side streets branching off of each side.

As we walked through the immense site, we encountered many excavated ruins including the Agora (the main square of the city) the Basilike Stoa (the center of public life), the theater (which contained seating for 1,500 people), the sacred area (with an enclosed grotto dedicated to Hermes and Heracles) and a gymnasium with Roman baths.

A cul-de-sac, at the highest point of the city, had an impressive building which was the headquarters of the fleet commander and a courtyard next door which was thought to be the gymnasium of the garrison. There were also the remains of dwelling which belonged to officers of the fleet.

Higher up on the mountain plateau was where the city’s inhabitants lived in houses centralized around a small courtyard where a cistern was located. Some houses had two levels and others also had basements.

There are many remains of artwork exhibited throughout the site including mosaics and carvings that can still be spied throughout and although the entire city is captivating, what transfixed our attention was the views. Staring out at the neighboring islands and the city’s of Kamari and Perissa below reminded us that we needed to continue our exploration of the island.

Making our way back the way we had come, I looked longingly at the footpath heading down to Perissa. A gentleman leading horses down the trail reminded me that because we had not made the climb from Perissa, caused me to miss the small chapel I had spied from the village. There was so much more that we had missed on the island, it would have to wait until a future visit!

The drive down the mountain was just as unnerving as on the way up, but finally we arrived in Kamari. Though we had planned to spend the afternoon on Kamari or Perissa’s beaches, we decided that although we had driven through Fira on a couple of occasions, we had never had the opportunity to explore the capital of Santorini.

After securing a parking spot, we headed into the narrow, crowded streets and alleys, passing through Theotokopoulos Square, which overflows with cafes and thousands of visitors, Gold Street and its countless jewelry stores and the commercial center of Fabrika.

We finally arrived at the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral, one of the most photographed churches on the island, due to its primary location in the city. Built in 1827, the large church offers amazing views of the caldera and nearby islands. Destroyed in the great earthquake of 1956, it was rebuilt with elaborate arches, a stunning bell tower, beautiful frescoes, a mosaic flooring, amazing central chandelier and offers religious paintings created by Santorinian painter Christoforos Asimis.

Finally, we headed to the teleferico. I had once seen a video on arriving visitors to the island taking the donkeys up the steep, winding path. I must admit, when we arrived two days before, this is what I had anticipated and was quite disappointed that there were no donkeys…only the rental car representative.

My husband, son and I paid for our cable car transport to the bottom of the steep cliffs to the old port below. A very picturesque setting, we walked along the harbor, watching passengers arrive and depart from waiting cruise ships and tours. There were quaint boats moored in the slip and many shops and restaurants as well as the old market.

As we prepared to take the cable car back to the top, I decided that even though my husband and son had no interest in riding the donkey to the top, I needed to do it!

Taking my place in the queue, I paid the attendant, climbed on and off I went up the steep pathway. It was fun to travel the traditional way that goods and people once did to Fira, although sometimes my donkey had a mind of its own. Or…maybe it was just giving me time to enjoy the views! Still, it was much more fun than climbing up 587 steps to the top!

Our final stop of the day was to one of the many bars that look out over the caldera. Here, we enjoyed one of the most spectacular views that I have ever seen!

Although we only saw about a quarter of what this amazing island had to offer, I was suddenly caught up in the moment.

What was right there before my eyes was what Santorini is all about!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Ancient Thera

  • http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh355.jsp?obj_id=2454
  • Address: Ancient Thera Road, Kamari 17892, Greece
  • Hours: November 1 until March 31, 0800-1500, Closed Mondays. April 1 until October 31, 0830-1600, Closed Tuesday.
  • Admission: Full, €4, Reduced, €2. Special ticket package, Full: €14, Reduced: €7. The special package 4 day ticket is for Archaelogical Sites and Museum in Thera including Ancient Thera, Akrotiri, Archaeological Museum, Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Collection of Icons and Ecclesiastical Artifacts at Pyrgos. Free admission on March 6, April 18, May 18, last weekend of September, National Holidays, October 28, every first Sunday from November 1 to March 31.

Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral

  • Address:  Ipapantis, Thira 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: unknown
  • Admission: free
  • Modest dress required

Santorini Cable Car

  • http://www.scc.gr/
  • Address: Thera 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: April 1-April 30, 0700-2100, every 20 minutes. May 1-May 30 and September 1-October 31, 0700-2200, every 20 minutes. June 1-August 31, 0700-2300, every 20 minutes. November 1-November 30 and March 1-March 31, 0730-1030 and 1430-1800, every 30 minutes. December 1-February 28, 0700-0900 and 1500-1600, every 30 minutes.
  • Admission: Adults, one-way, 6€, Children, 3€, Luggage, 3€.

Santorini Donkeys

Old Santorini Port