Today I woke up eager to return to my classes and show off my stuff! I was feeling pretty good about yesterday!
I guess the day had other plans for me. First of all, my stove top wouldn’t heat up my pan and it took me about 20 minutes to cook my eggs, causing me to have to run to school, sans mask, getting a few dirty looks and making me arrive about a minute late. One minute late doesn’t sound so bad to most people but the flight attendant in me was freaking out…this “plane” was late and I hate making anyone wait.
My lessons began and I started out telling Heydi about my day yesterday. I was able to describe in Spanish, in pretty good detail about my trip to San Jeronimo, the supermarket, what I bought and what I had for dinner as well as what I watched on Netflix.
After this, she insisted on trying to teach me some verbs I didn’t know. The nerve! These verbs had very different endings and I was so confused. This led me to continually make simple mistakes…mistakes on things I actually knew which was completely frustrating!
She gave me homework and told me that I really need to study. Of course, I knew that I was going to have to study, but I just felt very degraded after class. I returned to my Airbnb, made some mini quesadillas and eyed my cerveza…in that moment I felt like I really could use a beer! Later. There were things to see in the city!
The sun was out and it was warmer than usual, so I decided that I needed a little field trip and some exercise. Walking toward the north of the city, I began the climb to the top of Cerro de la Cruz, the hill that overlooks the city and sports a large cross. A few hundred steps later, I was sitting on the wall, gazing over the city and praying that the clouds would part a little more so that I could see the top of the Volcan de Agua, the volcano that towers over the area.
Cerro de la Cruz
Cerro de la Cruz
Cerro de la Cruz
While gazing over the city, I had spotted the ruins of the convent, Santa Maria Teresa De Jesus and decided that this would be my next destination. As I headed down the hill, I first stopped at the remains of the Church of Candelaria, captured a few photos and then walked to the convent. It had been one of the first ruins that my son, Ian, and I had visited two years ago and we had enjoyed its beautiful cloister and fountain. I spent some time meandering through its many rooms and was just about to leave when the gentleman who sold me my ticket asked me a question (in Spanish).
The ruins of the Church of Candelaria
Santa Maria Teresa De Jesus
“Did you see the crypt and the basilica?”
Um, no.
He showed me on the map, adjacent to the door, the layout of the building and pointing to a set of stairs in a room, that I had not entered as I thought it to be a storage room.
I followed his directions and amazingly, there was a set of steps leading down into a room which also led to the ruins of the basilica. In the far corner, there was also a set of stairs leading to the old crypt.
There was nothing much in the crypt, but as I headed back up and into the basilica, I was simply amazed. Not just because you could still see much of the workmanship being restored, but because it is baffling that visitors are allowed in this area of construction…scaffolding, tools, bags of cement and goodness knows what else filled the space. In the United States, this would have been condemned and no one allowed near, much less in the building. Despite the mess, it was wonderful to see this space up close, as I had only spied it from the street, behind the gate.
Thanking the gentleman, we exchanged pleasantries (in Spanish, of course) and I explained that I was in Antigua for Spanish school. He asked how long I had been there and I said it was my second day. He told me I was very smart for learning that much in just two days! Lol! I got a good laugh out of that but I went on letting him believe I was muy inteligente!
Continuing my explorations, I admired the architecture of the area and the unique doors and doorknockers and then headed over to the El Carmen market, pausing to snap a few photos of the ruins of El Carmen church next door.
Ruins of El Carmen Catholic ChurchRuins of El Carmen Catholic Church
I had vowed not to buy anything early in my trip, but next thing you know I was walking out with a table runner. Okay, I am a bit of a sucker sometimes…it was Father’s Day in Guatemala, after all, and he hadn’t had a sale all day!
Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen
As I exited the market, I heard a large boom! Praying it wasn’t one of the nearby volcanoes, I realized that I was feeling a few raindrops!
Time to go home.
What do you do when it’s pouring outside?
Have happy hour!
That was a good ending to the day that didn’t start so well!
What I learned: There are many hidden treasures in Guatemala, you just have to talk to the right person, in the right language, to find them!
Photo of the day: The Cloister of Convento Santa Teresa de Jesus
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Cerro de La Cruz
Address: Al final de la 1ª Avenida Norte, Antigua, Guatemala 03001
Hours: 0700-1800, daily
Admission: free
Convento Santa Teresa De Jesus
Address: 1era calle Oriente y 4a Avenida sur. Antigua Guatemala
Eyes open early…it’s the first day of Spanish school in Antigua, Guatemala!
It has been many years since I have had a first day of school!
As I took to the streets, headed towards my first day of classes, it dawned on me that I had not had a proper breakfast. The little convenience store next to my hotel wasn’t open (or bored, see Day 1) until eight, so I figured I would just have to tough it out until lunchtime.
Walking along 5a Avenida Norte, I passed under the beautiful Santa Catalina Arch (I couldn’t help myself for taking this route) and cut through the park at Iglesia de La Merced. Glancing at my watch, I realized that I had more than a few minutes to spare and lo and behold, there was a little bakery just across the street from my school.
Two delicious mini ham and cheese croissants and a Diet Coke filled the void but I realized with all these tortillas and pan readily available, I might have to seriously exercise in the afternoons!
A few minutes prior to eight (I definitely did not want to be late on my first day), I quickly snapped a photo at the entrance…why did I feel like my children when I used to make them do their obligatory first day photo on our front porch? Should I have brought a sign for the occasion? First Day, Spanish School, Antigua, Guatemala, June 2021. The locals would surely have thought I was a bit loco!
It was time for my day to begin.
Greeted by the owner of the school, business was on the forefront, having to settle up for this week’s lessons and my transportation to Antigua. A short dark-haired woman in her thirties then appeared.
Heydi, my teacher.
Mi maestra.
The person who was going to help me gain fluency in Spanish and not make fun of me when I mispronounced words and phrases.
The Holy Grail!
Taking a seat at a table in the courtyard, I glanced around. This was definitely not what I had pictured for a classroom. It was very rustic…plastic tables and chairs, birds flying around and a motorcycle parked inside! Well, I wasn’t here for a spa day! All we needed was a place to learn and I could hear two other students and their instructors just around the corner.
Mucho gusto! De donde eres?
And that’s how it began. Heidy spoke slowly and clearly and I actually realized how much I already knew from my past year’s studies. I understood almost everything she asked me and was able to respond, with the occasional stumble, of course. Before I realized, it was time for our half hour break.
The beauty of Antigua is that there are countless churches, convents, monasteries and ruins throughout the city. While I had planned to visit a different place each afternoon, it dawned on me that I was just next door to the magnificent La Merced. If I wanted, I could wander over during my break and talk to God (and perhaps pray for fluency). Today, I just made it as far as the steps. I talked to my friend, Kathie, on the phone instead.
The last hour and a half passed quickly and I was bidding Heydi, “Hasta Manana”. This phrase that English speakers casually use takes on a whole new meaning when you really have to see the person the next morning. I was now committed!
After returning to my hotel, gathering my belongings and checking out, I headed back in the direction of La Merced, this time to check into my Airbnb. While walking along the streets of Antigua, the sidewalks are lined with colorful walls, marked with the occasional window, heavy wooden door, shop and restaurant.
I am always intrigued by what lies behind these walls…usually quaint courtyards and immaculate homes. After being greeted by Esperanza, the caretaker, what I was expecting was exactly what I found. A stone corridor, decorated with seating and Guatemalan artwork led to a small, grassy, art-filled courtyard. My unit was the first one we came to and as I walked in, I realized it was exactly as I had seen it pictured. An airy kitchen was on the first floor and a spiral staircase on the right, led me upstairs to my bedroom and sitting area.
While I was intrigued with the spiral staircase, it dawned on me that getting my suitcases up to the bedroom was going be a bit of a challenge! Definitely one step at a time!
It didn’t take long to unpack and make a quick grocery list.
Heading out, I realized that I my route was going to take me next to the ruins of San Jeronimo church. While planning my trip, I had decided early on that my afternoons would be spent in the city seeing the many sights. Why not begin today? The groceries could wait while I indulged in Guatemalan culture.
The site of San Jeronimo is not a large one, but one I had remembered fondly from my first visit. I wandered through each room and the courtyard, reveling in the knowledge that I did not have to rush. I could take my time and see and photograph things here and each afternoon, making the most of my time. Heck, I could even come back…what a novel idea!
Finally, I walked up the tree lined street toward La Bodegona, the supermarket. Paper towels, toilet paper, water, beer, diet cola…these were easy. But what could I buy for lunch or the occasional dinner? Trying to make these decisions was a bit tough when you are not familiar with some of the products. Eventually, I settled on eggs, tortillas, cheese, tomatoes and chips. Basic. Breakfast and lunch I could handle, dinner would be at one of the countless restaurants in the city! Finally home and exhausted, I put my goods away and plopped down on the couch. Yes, it was going to be a Netflix and pizza kind of night!
What I learned: My waist is going to expand with all of these croissants and tortillas!
Photo of the day: Lilies of San Jeronimo
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San Jeronimo Church
Address: Corner of 1a Calle Poniente and Alameda de Santa Lucia, Antigua, Guatemala
As I left home this morning, I was thinking that I was crazy for thinking that going to school in another country to learn another language at my age was a good idea. To say the least, I was extremely nervous. Although I had been to Guatemala on vacation with my son a couple of years ago and I felt very comfortable there, there are so many things that go through your mind.
What if I did not like the school or my teacher? What if I did not like being there for more than a few days? What if I got sick while I was on my own?
Nevertheless, I have learned over the years that I need to put myself into uncomfortable situations. In the end, it all works out and I’ll tell anyone who will listen about my wonderful experiences!
So, I made my way through security and to my gate in Richmond trying not to think about anything other than getting there. After landing in Atlanta, I boarded my flight to Guatemala City, arriving 3 1/2 hours later. The airport was nowhere near as crowded as was the first time we visited. I would imagine that this is due to Covid restrictions and people not traveling as much as they have in the past. Clearing customs and immigration, it then took me only a couple of minutes to find my driver and we were soon on our way to Antigua.
Although I have studied a great deal over the past year, it’s quite difficult to sit in a car for an hour and try to make conversation with someone who is fluent in the language you aren’t completely familiar with. Realizing that I needed a bit of help, I turned on my phone and utilized my translation app and I think Senor Sergio really appreciated my efforts! Before long, I recognized the entrance to the beautiful city that was to be my home for the next two weeks and I was being dropped off at my hotel.
Hotel Casa del Parque
Hotel Casa del Parque
After settling in, I headed out to the cobblestone streets searching for a restaurant for my lunch. Devouring a Caprese panini and fries I realized that it actually was much later for me with the time difference and I probably wouldn’t be very hungry later. I then continued on Avenida 5a Norte and passed thru the Santa Catalina Arch. Spotting Iglesia de La Merced, one of Antigua’s famed churches up ahead, I began to look for my school which was located nearby. Discovering the doorway and entrance, I breathed a sigh of relief knowing that I wouldn’t have to spend precious time in the morning locating it. The second thing on my agenda was finding the place that was to be my home starting the next day. That didn’t take very long either as my Airbnb was located only a block away…talk about picking the right location!!!
Santa Catalina Arch
I was so excited to be back in the city and wanted to stop and see everything that I remembered, however I decided to head back to my hotel to use the pool since the sun was trying to sneak a peek out of the cloudy skies…rainy season, you know.
A little colder than I expected, I didn’t last very long and headed back into my room for a much-needed nap. I was exhausted but freshened up and headed to a restaurant that my son and I had enjoyed on a couple of occasions. A few beers and some fish tacos and I was finally ready to get some sleep so that I would be ready for my first day of school!
What I learned today: Know the correct verb…asking the convenience store owner what time the shop is bored in the morning is quite confusing, however quite comical! Abburido and abierto are two very different words!!! Truly a mistake I will never make again!
Picture of the day: Hello Antigua!
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While standing on the slopes of Pacaya Volcano, we couldn’t help but feel elated!
I can’t explain the pure joy we were feeling for having chosen to visit Guatemala and the beautiful city of Antigua…for all the things we had seen while we were there…for the friendly Guatemalans that we had encountered…for all of the beauty we had laid our eyes upon!
We were not ready for it to be over and thankfully, we were able to work out another night’s stay with our hotel (not an easy feat with the busy Holy Week)!
In order to make the most of our extra time, we were up early to hit the streets and see everything we had not yet had the time to. Believe me, there was quite a bit, plus more than we would have ever imagined.
First stop was the Cementerio General San Lázaro, just down the street from our hotel. We had not intended to stop here, but it was on the way to the our first destination. Always having been intrigued by old cemeteries, I figured it was worth a quick look.
Walking through the white arched entrance, decorated for Holy Week, we made our way through the municipal cemetery that was created in 1834 by the state major, Mariano Galvez on land that once hosted a leper’s hospital. The maze of white-washed tombs, some displaying the purple decorations for Holy week, was very peaceful and we observed the immaculate grounds. Though there were many mausoleums and smaller tombs, there were just as many that were quite grand. The small colonial church, San Lazaro, at the end of the large initial walkway, contained some interesting statues, both inside and out, and a large gold altar.
Leaving the cemetery, we made our way down the street to our original destination, Convento la Recolección, which I had spotted on my map the night before. We didn’t have any idea of what to expect here, but after paying our admission at the gate, we were blown away by what we found.
In the United States, there are so many building codes that dictate the structural integrity of a building. If a building does not meet these codes, people are most definitely not allowed to enter the premises or in some cases, even approach. On our first day, we were shocked to see how we could wander freely through the ruins of the monasteries that had no barrier walls or guard rails.
Convento la Recolección, took this to a whole different level.
We could see that this structure was missing its roof and that the front walls were crumbling, as approached on the lengthy sidewalk. There were two huge chunks of stone on either side of the sidewalk and we discovered that these were pieces of the same front walls that had collapsed during the great earthquake of 1773.
Approaching the front steps, we looked through the stone archway (surprisingly still intact), to the interior. The floor was littered with boulder-sized remains of the church’s ceiling and columns. There were no barriers or restrictions on where you could walk and we slowly and carefully made our way around the decaying floor, littered with its broken extremities, while staring upwards at the remaining walls, some still displaying its original detailing. Truly one of the most thought provoking places I have ever visited!
This architectural complex was a former church and monastery of the Order of the Recollects, initiated when in 1685, two missionaries of the friars of the Recollects arrived and sought permission for construction of the monastery. Though it was originally determined by the City Council that not enough friars were present to support the venture and that enough monasteries had been established, a royal decree was finally issued for its construction in 1700. Construction commenced in 1701 and continued until 1717 when the church was inaugurated. A short time later that year, earthquakes damaged the church and cloisters. Repairs were carried out, however, the devastating Santa Marta Earthquake of 1773, left the complex in ruins.
Today, the ruins are protected as both a national monument and as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and as we made our way out of the church, we walked into the adjacent monastery grounds. Here, the walls are still standing, but as with the church, the complex is open to the Antiguan heavens. The interior rooms and the former cloister is free of rubble, giving it a different feel than the church. Many of the walls and interior spaces were aged and decrepit, however, there were many traces of the architectural details that once graced its walls.
Heading a few blocks up the road, we found ourselves at our next stop, Convento de San Jeronimo. This complex was once planned as the College of St. Jerome by the Order of Mercy in 1757, however, in 1765, after initial construction was almost demolished, it was decided that the building would be used as the building of the Real Income Alcabalas and Royal Customs, one of the city’s top financial institutions of the time. As with most other buildings within the city, its construction was affected by earthquakes and some of its remains used as building materials for other projects within the city.
Today, the well-manicured grounds contain a multitude of flowers, shrubs and trees and provide a peaceful setting for families who desire to have a nice setting for a picnic lunch. Though the complex is not immense, it is nice to explore some of the small rooms and ascend the staircases to the top. At the north end, we looked out over the courtyard and its central fountain toward the towering Volcan de Agua in the distance.
Our final destination took us across the city, now teeming with visitors, here to see the Holy Week processions. It seemed that the city’s population had tripled overnight and we had a difficult time making our way through the parades that journeyed through the streets, now even during the daytime hours.
The festivities reminded me so much of Mardi Gras, with its vendors and convivial atmosphere, yet, without the debauchery. Many people were donning purple robes and the Holy Week processions that we had witnessed during the previous evenings, had grown in size, both in the amount of participants and the proportions of the floats. In the Tanque La Unión, the historic gathering place used by the citizens to wash their clothes during colonial times, there were countless peddlers lining its perimeter and cooking traditional Guatemalan delicacies and dishes which could be purchased. The mournful sounds of the bands could be heard throughout the city, especially in the nearby Convento Santa Clara.
Santa Clara was established in 1734 by the sisters from Puebla, Mexico and four years later, destroyed by the Santa Marta Earthquake and subsequently abandoned.
As we entered, we noticed how much larger this complex was compared to the others we had visited. It was filled with floral blooms and shrubs and like most others, missing most of its ceiling.
Most interesting, however, was the intact church’s stonework facade with is Serbian balustrade pilasters and the arched niches along the nave which served as confessionals in addition to the captivating cloister with its ancient fountain.
Walking along one of the halls, you can stand atop the extended pulpit chair and climb the one remaining stairway adjacent to the cloister. Magnificent views over the convent can be obtained here as well as of the nearby mountains.
As our day was coming to a close, we ducked into the nearby Iglesia San Pedro Apóstol, its front portico packed with those looking to purchase items from the multitude of vendors in the streets and in front of the church or just hoping to get a better view of the processions.
Iglesia San Pedro Apóstol is a smaller baroque church adjacent to San Pedro Hospital. It was designed by Nicolás de Cárcamo and named in honor of Hermano Pedro de San José Betancur, whose tomb we had seen on our second day at the Santuario San Francisco el Grande.
As we stood, once again, on the portico, we looked out into the street and noticed a brightly colored display comprised of pine needles, sawdust and flowers. When the owner of our hotel had mentioned to us that “carpets” were beginning to be laid throughout the city, we innocently envisioned something you would see at a movie screening. Suddenly, the colorful sawdust between the cobblestones and the bags of sawdust and the stencils at the market began to make sense. The night before, we had watched a lady lay pine needles in a cordoned-off section on one of the streets as we walked home. We really had no idea what was transpiring and then it all made sense as we looked down on the street below us.
These were the carpets!
But, did the processions avoid these streets that the carpets were laid down on?
As a procession made its way down our street, we watched as they paraded right through these carpets, destroying the beautiful display. After the procession was complete, there were multiple people following who swept up the remnants, leaving a scattering of sawdust wedged between the paving stones.
Walking home, we began to notice so many of these carpets or “alfombras” lining the streets. It was obvious how much work and time was devoted to these endeavors and we were mesmerized as we walked by and examined these intricate designs which sometimes take months to plan involving multiple members of families and businesses.
Around the corner from our hotel, we noticed two different alfombras being laid. We decided that we could check their progress early in the morning when we were heading to the airport.
During the early morning hours, packing up our suitcases, we were informed by the hotel staff that our driver had called and could not make it to the hotel. Since we would have to the walk the six blocks to meet him, we headed into the darkened streets, only to find them lighted by strong lamps and enlivened with loud music.
As we traversed the distance to our awaiting transportation, we discovered why he could not make it to our hotel. The streets were blocked and people had worked through the night, creating alfrombras everywhere. It was the most amazing sight…beautiful carpets stretching as far as we could see.
Though I snapped as many pictures as I could while walking, the outcome does not show you the impact of what were seeing, plus with the motion and darkened streets, my pictures were not the clearest.
If I had realized what was to come, we might have planned on leaving on the afternoon flight and spending the early morning hours walking around the city, admiring the carpets and watching the processions originate from La Merced (around 4:00 am) when the processioners swap their purple robes to black ones. Still, what we saw was one of the most intriguing spectacles, leading me to think that I need to plan a trip in the future, just to spend time inspecting the alfombras!
As our plane departed Guatemala City a few hours later, I sat back in my seat, thinking of all that we had experienced during the last few days. It was mind boggling how much we accomplished not knowing one thing about Guatemala, Antigua, it history and traditions and yet, discovered, almost by accident.
With so much more to explore in this rich country…Lake Atitlan, the ruins of Tikal, Iximche and Yaxha and miles of beach-lined coast…Guatemala deserves more than just one more day!
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Cemeterio General San Lázaro
Address: Calle San Bartolome Becerra, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
I was finally going to get my chance in Guatemala.
After our arrival, we had set up a tour to climb Pacaya. Though the tour we booked was to be conducted in Spanish, we decided that we could make it work.
Picked up from our hotel, we endured a longer than normal drive due to the heavy traffic. Arriving at the Visitors’ Center in the village of San Francisco de Sales, late in the afternoon, there were so many tour buses and hikers, we were afraid that we would lose our group. Maybe the tour being in Spanish wasn’t such a good idea after all!
After paying our park entrance fee and saying “No, gracias” fifty times when asked if I wanted to buy a hiking stick by the hordes of children hoping to make a few quetzals, our group of approximately fifteen hikers and a tour guide, finally set out on the uphill trail.
No sooner than we began the uphill climb, I began to have a bit of trouble. Now, I’m no Olympic athlete, but I do go to the gym fairly regularly. And yes, I am over the hill, but the altitude and steepness of the climb, however, was no joke. Thankfully, three young men following our group with horses, came to the rescue. You can bet I climbed up on that horse’s back quicker than you can say, “Lava”.
At every lookout point and rest area, I watched everyone sweating profusely and breathing heavy. Me? I just hopped off my horse and attempted to capture the views of the Laguna De Calderas and Mirador Majahue, neither of which we could get a good glimpse of due to the low clouds.
My ride was enjoyable and I suspected we were close to the top when the clouds descended upon us. Separated from the rest of the group, me and another horse rider, were guided up another trail to where the horses are kept and traded out.
Everything was white (and windy) and I was quite ecstatic that I had not exerted myself for no view. As I blindly ambled across the lava field, I saw the Lava Store and thought, “Well, at least I have something to take a picture of…”
Finally, hearing voices in the distance, the rest of the group made their way toward us. As if on cue, the clouds seemed to dissipate a bit and just over the ridge, we could see lava streaming down the side of the volcano!
Thinking about the earthquake a couple of nights prior, it was a bit disconcerting, yet thrilling at the same time! Were we tempting fate? What if there was another earthquake at that moment and it shifted the flow?
Possible? Maybe? But I am no seismologist! And I am definitely not a volcanologist!
Instead of worrying, I happily accepted my stick and marshmallows from my guide and made my way to the heat vents to roast my snack. Amazingly, the heat (probably enough to melt the soles of our shoes if you stood in one location long enough), was sufficient to brown and make them a gooey, bunch of goodness!
Feeling as though we had worn out our welcome, it was time to appease the volcano gods and vacate their unstable residence.
Hopping on my horse, my Guatemalan hostler led me back down the steep path to where our hike originated. Though we were far from the lava flow at this point, I have to admit, I felt as though we weren’t far enough.
Though it was thrilling to see, maybe I wasn’t quite loving the lava!
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Admission: 50Q (about $6.50 US) for park admission, not covered by tour price. Tours run approximately $7-8 US per person and often conducted in Spanish.
Getting There: Many tours are available through hotels and tour companies.
So, why are the colorfully decorated transport buses that you see in Guatemala called chicken buses?
Have you ever seen a truckload of chickens being taken to the processing plant? Crammed together in an enclosed space, this is how Central Americans look (and probably feel) when they travel throughout their countries. And, yes, sometimes crammed into these buses, they transport live animals…probably a chicken or two every now and then.
When American school buses are retired, they are sold at auction and often end up in Central America, modified and painted with bright colors and designs. Easy to spot due to their vibrant paint jobs, religious imagery and verbiage, the bus’s name and permanent route are often inscribed over the front windshield. Their insides (well, that is the most interesting part) are sometimes jazzed up with Christmas lights, tassels and posters and a very loud sound system.
Sounds like fun!
Operated by two people, a driver and the ayudante or helper, they run a tight schedule. Although the driver’s job is extremely important, as he is responsible for the safe passage of his customers, the helper keeps everything running smoothly. From collecting money, to stowing everything from luggage, to livestock and produce…sometimes on the roof of the bus…sometimes while in motion…the ayudante also is responsible for announcing (loudly) the destinations that the bus is reaching.
The self-employed driver and his assistant prefer to keep the buses at capacity to reduce operating costs and sometimes travel at top speed in a hair-raising, nerve-wracking experience. After all, time is money!
Although during our stay in Guatemala, we never had the opportunity to ride one of the chicken buses, we were quite fascinating watching the operation.
Next time, I may give it a go…and bring a chicken or two.
Does fried chicken count?
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Approximate Fares: Outlying communities to Antigua, about 2Q-4.5Q ($0.37-$0.43). From Antigua to Guatemala City and return, about 10Q ($1.25) one way. Children ride for free in the passenger’s lap.
Five churches, a market, an overlook, an arch, dinner and a procession?
That’s a lot for one day!
On our third day in Antigua, we had a trip to Pacaya volcano planned during the afternoon, so we decided that after our busy previous day, we were going to take it easy and hang out near our hotel at the market during the morning.
Well, that was the plan anyway!
Entering the property from Alameda de Santa Lucia, we headed in to what we thought was the artisan’s market. Instead, we found the local market, filled with clothing, shoes, dvd’s and any other thing you could think of besides souvenirs. A little confused, we continued to walk around, thinking that maybe we had confused the El Carmen market with what we thought was here. Finally, we stumbled upon the entrance to a modern building, a little to the back and on the south side of the local market.
Built around large, centralized courtyards, the Mercado de Artesanías contains many vendors selling from their small spaces, each hoping to gain your attention and business. There is a wide variety of beautiful and colorful Guatemalan handicrafts here.
Since I had already purchased some creatively embroidered blouses and table runners the day before at the small market at Santuario San Francisco El Grande, I was only looking a nativity set and a mask for my collections and crucifixes for my parents. Of course, I was open to whatever else I could find and I had quite a bit of cash ready!
There were food and drink vendors, an ATM and clean bathrooms on site and the entire atmosphere appeared as if it had been built sometime in the last few years.
It was quite difficult to narrow down my decisions, but I learned that vendors were more willing to bargain if you were purchasing more than one item. So, Marta made me the best deals and we walked away very happy with everything I had been searching for.
At the back of the market, we found some interesting booths selling colorful bags of sawdust and paper cutouts with intricate patterns. We had seen colorful sawdust in the streets between the cobblestones. Could this all be related? It would take some time, but the significance of this would be revealed to us later!
Passing the bus station with the colorfully painted and hyped up, re-purposed school buses, called the Chicken Buses, we exited the market. My son had not found the shirts that he had hoped for so we headed back to the front of the local market for soccer shirts and then all the way back to El Carmen for t-shirts.
Taking a look at my watch, we had quite a bit of time before our pick-up for our tour, so we decided to head over to Hotel Casa Santo Domingo. The young lady at our front desk had told us that the hotel had a museum and ruins within and it was worth making our way there.
At this point, we were a couple of blocks away, so, why not?
Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, a five star hotel, is built within and around the ruins of a cathedral and this forms the basis of a number of museums and art galleries all accessed via the hotel with the one admission price. Though it took some doing to figure out the entrance point, eventually we made our way through hallways until we reached the main lobby and then the grounds… here, we were blown away!
Once the church and convent of Santo Domingo and Santo Tomás de Aquino (Saint Thomas Aquinas) College, there are six museums on the premises in addition to restaurants and the hotel; the Colonial Museum, the Archaeology Museum, the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art and Modern Glass, the Silver Museum, the Pharmacy Museum and the Marco Augusto Quiroa and the Artists Halls.
There were beautiful gardens to walk through and ruins which included the Chapel of the Niches, the Main Cloister and Fountain, the Convent Crypt which contained human remains, the Capitulary Chamber and the Cathedral, which was set up for Easter Sunday Mass.
As we walked around the premises, it was quite surreal to see balconies of hotel rooms and to hear families playing in the adjacent swimming pool.
Around the central courtyard, we watched workers decorate the area around the fountain…using stencils, much like we had just seen at the market, they sprinkled colorful sawdust through the openings, creating unique patterns. This pattern was highlighted with fruits and vegetables, similar to what we had seen at Santuario San Francisco El Grande. Now, it was starting to make sense. Could this be related to the carpets that everyone was talking about?
Leaving Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, we realized that we had just enough time to stop by an awesome little restaurant that we had seen the day before…Antojitos Salvadorenos. Years ago, in Belize, we had papusas for the first time. Over the years, I have made a point of ordering them when available and today was not going to be the exception.
For those who are not familiar with papusas, they are doughy, delicious corn tortillas stuffed with a mixture of meat and cheese and then served with pickled slaw (Curtido) and tangy sauce. This artsy little restaurant, definitely did not disappoint, both price-wise and taste-wise!
Walking quickly, we made it back to our hotel, with just enough time to freshen up and gather what we needed for our volcano hike.
Everything else in Guatemala had so far exceeded our expectations…would the Pacaya volcano do so as well?
To be continued…
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Well, that was me, who basically slept through the earthquake the night before.
I was well rested and ready for our first big day in Antigua…my son, not so much! The earthquake rattled him in more ways than one!
Enjoying a delicious breakfast at our hotel, we then grabbed the necessities and headed out into Antigua’s streets ready to discover everything else there was about this beautiful city.
Our first destination was Cerro de la Cruz (Cross on the Hill). The proprietor of our hotel had shown us pictures and insisted we visit in the morning when the crowds are not as plentiful and the skies are usually clear.
Heading to the other side of town and the road that leads to the overlook, I decided that it would be fun (and less tiresome) to hire a tuk-tuk to take us up the steep drive. Though the tuk-tuk sometimes strained under the precipitous road conditions, we soon pulled into the parking area. Although the driver wanted to wait for us, we sent him on his way as we had already decided to make the hike down after our visit.
The hill provides sweeping views of the city and the magnificent volcano towering over it. In 1930, the famous cross, devoted to the city’s patron saint, was installed on the hill, first created from wood, then later, converted to stone. It is a place where most tourists come to enjoy the views and see the city’s famous landmarks, from above, that they have seen from eye-level. With the city’s grid pattern, it is easy to spot the central Plaza Mayor and make your way around, spotting the Iglesia Merced, the Santa Catalina Arch and many other of Antigua’s monuments amongst the red tiled roofs.
There were a great many vendors selling drinks, snacks and handcrafted items. It was a given that I had to try the shaved ice, something I have loved since I was a child. This one, however, was a bit different from any I have had in the past. After adding the ice to the cup, instead of the usual syrup-y juice usually used, a thick fruit juice was poured in with actual fruit. She then added condensed milk (my fave!) to top it all off! So delicious! It was such a treat to enjoy this local favorite while enjoying the amazing view!
Soon, we decided to hit the trail. Winding downward through the forest, we made our way back down to 1A Avenida. It was startling to see random ruins shadowing everyday life…even a basketball court where teenagers practiced their techniques.
Continuing on our way, we passed colorful buildings, fruit merchants, building decorated for Holy Week, places of business, different modes of transportation and interesting doorways leading to beautiful courtyards. Yes, I was a bit of a voyeur, always peeking in!
Arriving at the gate of the Santuario San Francisco el Grande, we found a hub of activity. Locals selling fruits and nuts lined the wall outside the compound and many vendors filled tents along the inner wall selling candles, handicrafts, clothing and other woven items. Food vendors filled the courtyard and the delicious aroma of typical Guatemalan food filled the air.
Making our way toward the front of the church, it was difficult not to be impressed with its impressive facade. Twisted columns made their way up to the top of the church and carved niches were filled with statues of saints and friars, including the Virgin Mary, San Diego de Alcalá, San Antonio de Padua, San Juan Capistrano, Santa Clara, Santiago, and Santa Isabel from Hungary. The bell and clock towers from the 17th and 19th centuries still remain on the left side of the building, but the right side still exhibits extensive damage from past earthquakes, lending to its mystique.
Since it was Holy Week, many locals entered with us to pray and pay their respects to Santo Hermano Pedro, whose shrine is located within the church. Inside the main part of the church, we found an amazing sight…a long, brightly colored carpet lined with fruits and vegetables, headed by a display depicting a cross-carrying Christ. Unlike anything we had ever seen, we jostled with the crowds to gain a better view of this spectacle.
We learned later that this church is held in very high regard within the city and is used as the starting point of the Calle los Pasos (Steps Street) which holds the Station of the Cross. At three o’clock on Fridays during Lent, with men participating, the statue of Jesus Nazareno is carried on their shoulders from Santuario San Francisco el Grande, stopping at each of the stations and traveling one thousand three hundred and twenty-two steps…exactly the amount Jesus traveled from the praetorian palace to the mount of El Calvario. Women make the same trek on Thursdays during Lent at five o’clock and penance and mass is celebrated after both rituals.
Making our way to the side of the church, we found the tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro (Brother Peter) or Peter of Saint Joseph Betancur, a missionary of Spanish origin who resided in Guatemala. He was beatified in 1980, canonized in 2002 and enshrined at the church. Known as the St. Francis of Assisi of the Americas, he was the founder of the Order of Our Lady of Bethlehem and devoted his life to visiting hospitals, jails and assisting the unemployed and the young. In 1658, he established a hospital for the poor and later a shelter for the poor, a school of the poor, an oratory and an inn for priests. Many miracles have been attributed to Santo Hermano Pedro and a large number of devoted were spied praying to his tomb asking for intercessions.
Walking out of the church, we made our way through the gardens, admiring the shrines, statues, fountains and murals that adorn the area.
Before departing this fascinating religious site, we just stood on the steps for a while and took a look over the entire area. Evident that Holy Week plays such an important part in the lives, the Guatemalans were in a festive spirit and it was a great moment to enjoy their traditional clothing and positive energy.
Heading toward the center of town, we finally went to inspect the Santa Catalina Arch during the daytime hours. Just down the street from La Fonda, where we had dined the night before, we had seen it from afar, lighted as it is during the darkened hours. Today, we wanted to see it lit by the sun. Truly spectacular both ways, it is evident by the throngs of tourists that come here during their visits to take their picture in front of or under the bright yellow span.
One of the most photographed landmarks in the city, it was built in the 17th century and connected the Santa Catalina convent to a school, allowing the cloistered nuns to pass from one building to the other out of public view. During the 1830’s, its beautiful, colonial-era, clock was added to the top, giving it the look that we see today.
Once our photographs were completed, we headed down Avenida Norte, through the arch to our next point of interest, Iglesia de La Merced.
As we approached the beautiful, yellow and white church, we made our way through the festive booths set up for Holy Week, with offerings much like we had seen at Santuario San Francisco el Grande.
Unlike Santuario San Francisco el Grande, however, Iglesia de La Merced appears to be unaffected by earthquakes and has a fascinating architectural history.
When the Mercedarians set out to establish the first convent for men in Ciudad Vieja, their plans were short lived. The convent was wiped out before the construction was complete when a mudslide from the nearby Agua Volcano wiped out the city. The city was relocated to what is now known as Antigua and permission was granted in 1541 for a second church to be built. Forty two years later, the church was finally completed, only to be destroyed by earthquakes. In 1749, architect Juan de Dios Estrada, studied the design failures of the previous architects and set out to adapt traditional baroque designs to survive the instability of the region. Lowering the ceilings, adding thick walls and thicker buttresses made this third church more earthquake resistant and despite the massive earthquake of 1773 (and subsequent earthquakes), the church has remained standing, mostly unaffected.
The facade, flanked by two bell towers, was captivating with its unique stucco work with its Moorish influenced arabesque patterns. Images of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Mercy and other prominent Mercedarians such as St. Pedro Armengol, St. Maria de Cervello and St. Raymundo Nonnatus reside in niches between the elaborately decorated columns and at the top of the church, Pedro Nolasco, the founder of the Order of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Mercy keeps watch on the square below.
At the time of our arrival, the church was not open to visitors and there was much hubbub on the premises as both children and adults entered the convent area, readying themselves for the evening’s Holy Week processions. The convent was open for visitation, however, and we decided that we should not miss out.
Paying our admission, we entered the remains of the convent, making our way to the center where the a large fountain can be admired from both the lower and upper levels. The fountain was designed in the shape of a water lily, a traditional symbol of power for the Mayan people and is said to be the largest in Hispanic America. It is believed that the Mercedarian monks used this fountain to raise fish to supplement their diet.
As we made our way around the courtyard, we took note of the children dressed in the Sunday finest, taking pictures, obviously excited for the upcoming festivities. All around the courtyard, the components of the procession could be spied, ready and waiting for the events to begin.
Making our way up to the top part of the convent, we were amazed at the incredible 360 degree views. All of the nearby volcanoes could be spied, as well as closer views of the bell towers and the city surrounding the church.
Heading eastward from La Merced, our next destination was Santa Teresa de Jesus, a church and convent built between 1677 and 1678 by architect José de Porres for the Discalced Carmelite nuns. As with many of the other religious sites in Antigua, the earthquake of 1717, caused considerable damage to the structure and the earthquake of 1773 resulted in the domes of the convent to collapse.
The Renaissance-styled facade of the church faces Calle Oriente, however, the entrance to the convent, is located around the corner on Alameda Santa Rosa.
A small-scale fountain filled the main courtyard and there were small rooms exhibiting models of the church and convent as it once was and stone carvings rescued from the ruined structures. What we found interesting, when we headed upstairs, however, was that in the United States, if a building was in this condition and had no guard railings and open walls and windows, the building would be considered condemned. Here, you are welcomed in and allowed to walk around at your leisure, inspecting every corner and space. Thankful for this, we took complete advantage and enjoyed our explorations of the convent, discovering that after the destruction from the earthquake, it was abandoned and then occupied by poor families, used as a wine distillery, a place to dry coffee beans and then used as a jail from the 1940’s until 2007.
As the day was coming to a close, we walked by the Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen. The market is adjacent to the old church ruins of El Carmen. Though the ravaged church is not open to visitors, we were able to duck into the market and purchase a few souvenirs.
The last landmark on our itinerary for the day was the Iglesia y Convento de Capuchinas (Church and Convent of the Capuchins), one of the most visited sites in Antigua.
Las Capuchinas, as it is simply known by the locals, is also the nickname of the founding religious order. After the arrival of the Clarissine nuns in Guatemala, they were given approval for construction of the complex from King Phillip V in 1725 with the commencement in 1731. A short five years later, the structure, built in the Renaissance style by architect Diego de Porres, was completed and was the last women’s convent founded in the city.
Today, the convent operates as a tourist attraction and often, a popular wedding venue. As we walked through the main courtyard, we noticed a young girl, bedecked in a flowing gown, awaiting the beginning of her quinceanera, being held on the premises. Those fans of actors Dulé Hill and Jazmyn Symon, might also recognize the convent as the setting of their wedding in May of 2018.
We especially enjoyed the grounds of Las Capuchinas. Though the convent was considered small by comparison to others in the city, with only twenty-five nuns in residence, because of the lavish grounds, I felt as though it was quite larger than the other places we had visited.
The church was accessible to visitors and amazingly still had its roof in place. Though there was not much decoration remaining, it was an amazing space and easy to imagine what it must have looked like during its prime.
Heading to the rear of the complex, we ventured into a circular underground room which historians have speculated was used by the nuns to either store food, practice their singing or pray while walking in circles. A tour guide was present with her clients and we watched as they were instructed to stand on either side of the room and whisper to the wall. Incredibly, the other, so far away, could hear their words! Of course, we had to try!
A circular building at the rear of the property, set among the lavish greenery also caught our attention. Though its purpose was not clear, some have argued that it was designed for spiritual retreats or possibly acted as a chamber for carrying out penance. Other theories advise that it may have been an asylum for older nuns suffering from dementia or even a water storage facility. Within the small archways of this building, there are a couple of displays (complete with mannequin nuns) showing what the nun’s cells might have looked like.
Finally, we made our way back to the main courtyard and climbed to the upper level, looking down on the small fountain which was brought from the former Santa Ines church. The upper level was filled with colorful flowers and had the most serene feeling. No wonder so many choose to exchange their vows here!
As the sun dipped lower in the sky, down past the peaks of the nearby volcanoes, it was time to call it a day. We had seen so many astounding architectural monuments and there was still even more to explore.
More religious processions.
More landmarks.
More Guatemalan delicacies.
Much more Antigua!
Holy Week Procession on Night 2
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Cerro De La Cruz
Address: Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Hours: 0800-1800, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Take 1A Avenida and follow it North. At the base of the inclining hill, you will find the beginning of the hiking trail, marked by a sign welcoming you to Cerro de la Cruz. To your left will be a set of concrete stairs leading into the forest. This is the path that will lead you to the overlook. You can also hire a tuk-tuk for a couple of dollars.
Picking a place to stay while on vacation can be a complicated affair.
While most people book their accommodations far in advance, those of us who travel at the last minute, make decisions based mostly on availability with some input from friends and colleagues, who may have traveled there before, or from hotel and travel websites listing amenities, location and price. Often, I have booked my hotels while standing in the airplane’s jetbridge, boarding my flight or once I am sitting on my flight enroute (praying that WIFI is working) to my destination.
Regardless of when you have booked your room, however, you never know exactly what you are going to get until you actually get there.
After making the decision to travel to Antigua, Guatemala and learning that we would indeed have a seat on the flight, I booked my hotel from the gate before the embarkation process. Using a widely known hotel-booking site, I based my decision on some of the included pictures and price. A few blocks away from the city-center, this particular hotel didn’t appear to be a far walk and it was adjacent to the artisan market and a grocery store. It was Holy Week in the city and many of the hotel prices were inflated due to the influx of visitors to the city. This hotel, however, was still affordable, even though a little more than I had expected to pay, knowing that Antigua’s lodging prices are usually relatively inexpensive.
After our interesting journey from Guatemala City to Antigua, I wasn’t sure that luck was on our side on the day of our arrival, and I was worried about what we would find waiting for us. When we arrived at a wall with the name of our hotel near a doorway, I wasn’t sure what to think. Pressing the button to alert the staff of our arrival, a small window in the wooden door opened up and a face appeared in the opening.
“Can I help you?”
“Yes, we made a reservation earlier in the day?”
“Of course, we were wondering about your arrival time.”
The large, wooden door was unbolted and opened, allowing our access in to a peaceful courtyard.
There was a soothing fountain to our right as we approached the outdoor, front desk and many tables with umbrellas in the courtyard, where I assumed the included breakfast was served.
After our check-in process was completed, we were then escorted through the another courtyard, again with many tables, into a colorful sitting area. Our room was a few feet away and there was a small sitting area just outside our doorway, as well.
Having upgraded to a room with two beds, our space was decently sized, very modern and extremely clean. The simple white linens were highlighted with a dashes of deep colors and dark-stained, reclaimed wood.
The bathroom was immaculate with tile and colored concrete throughout. The most interesting thing, however, was that near the ceiling on the outside wall, the room was open instead of being vented. Hearing the birds chirp while taking a shower or getting dressed was so refreshing…you just had to remember to keep the door closed so as not to let the coolness from the air conditioner escape.
To the right of the bathroom was a sliding door with a small courtyard. Although we could not look out at the city, it was nice to take a seat here and enjoy a drink in the evening or just peek out at the sky in the morning to see what kind of weather was in store for us.
The staff was extremely kind and quick to assist us with booking a trip to the nearby Pataya volcano and with any questions we had regarding the city’s attractions, eating establishments and our return trip to Guatemala City on our final day.
Though our room was not equipped with a small fridge (something I usually look for), the staff eagerly stored some things that we had purchased at the grocery store that needed refrigeration.
We loved talking to the members of the staff who spoke English and I think that they too enjoyed practicing their linguistics each day.
The best part of this awesome little hotel was the breakfast! Each morning, my son and I would step out into the courtyard and order from the small menu that offered about ten different items, from pancakes to omelets…even papusas! These amazing meals were topped off with freshly squeezed orange juice, coffee and sometimes a cup of a local-type of oatmeal…part drink and part meal…I never quite understood what it was, only that it was delicious, as was everything we consumed here.
Because of the travel with my job, I have become so used to the apathetic approach from the staff of the large hotels that I stay in, that it was so touching to see all of the effort that this hotel put forth to make their guests’ stays enjoyable.
When we decided to stay an extra night, knowing the hotel was full, we began to look around the city to find an alternative. The young lady who worked the front desk during the day, began making calls to confirm the soon-to-be-arriving guests and found that a room had actually become available. Our bags were stored as we left that morning and when we arrived that afternoon, we were shown to our new room, where our bags were waiting for us. This room was appointed much like our first, however, only with one bed but with a small balcony facing the front courtyard on the upper floor.
On our first night, we experienced a small earthquake shortly after retiring for the evening. The owner of the hotel was spotted making his way around, making sure that everything and everyone was okay. Probably suspecting that it was our first earthquake, he made a point of making sure that we were fine the next day. In fact, we came to enjoy our conversations with the owner. A friendly man, he was often spotted speaking with many of the guests while attending to his duties.
On our second day, after seeing one of the first of the Holy Week processions that draw thousands of visitors every year, the evening before, we were inquiring about a schedule for these events. He told me that the evening’s processions would not be arriving near the park until around 9:00 pm. Taking our time to get dressed for dinner, we heard a frantic knock on our door. Opening it, we discovered it to be the owner telling us to “Come quick!” The procession was already heading down our street, much earlier than he had stated that afternoon. Slipping on our shoes and heading out to the corner, with still-wet hair, the owner accompanied us, obviously enjoying our delight in the festivities.
Can I say that this has ever happened to me at another hotel that I have stayed in?
Absolutely not.
My husband, an extremely frequent traveler and a high-status member at a world-wide hotel chain, was amazed to hear my stories of this amazing little hotel. I am quite sure that there are many hotels throughout the world that duplicate this kind of service and I have experienced some that have come close. I must admit, however, that if…no…when I return to Antigua, I will be staying at the Hotel Posada de la Luna again.
I assure you…it will not feel like returning to just another hotel.
It will definitely feel like returning home.
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What do you do when your spring break plans fall through?
Call your mom and ask her to go exploring, of course!
Traveling with my children is one of the best things ever! I love taking them to new places and discovering new cultures, foods and traditions.
My middle son’s sense of adventure mirrors mine, so when he called me and informed me that his spring break plans had cancelled, I jumped into action, knowing that it would be a lot of fun for us to discover someplace new.
Asking my colleagues about Guatemala, a country that has piqued my interest for quite some time, I found that most recommended that we fly into Guatemala City, but continue our journey to the nearby city of Antigua.
After our three hour flight and customs and immigration clearance, we headed to the front of the airport to secure transportation to Antigua. My initial intent had been to hire a colectivo, a shared ride service, which transports 1-6 passengers, dropping each at their individual hotels. As I waited for my son to come back from the restroom, a local resident advertising tours, struck up a conversation with me. When I told him that my son and I were getting ready to head to Antigua via colectivo, he suggested that I hire a private car for the same price.
Of course, he had one in mind.
A quick call by this gentleman brought the car, a modern sedan, to the curb. We agreed on the price with the driver and we set off for the hour-long journey.
Our driver, dressed in uniform, handed me a business card for the car service and attempted to communicate with us in his limited English.
Traffic was very heavy and as we sat in air conditioned comfort, our journey was slow. Tracking our progress on my phone, I noticed that we hadn’t made it very far when our driver pulled into a gas station. I had noticed that his car had been making a “ringing” sound and he had made a phone call, speaking in his native Spanish. Thinking we were only at the station to fill for the journey, he suddenly explained that his car was giving him a warning light and he had called another driver to meet us here who would take us to Antigua.
He must have seen the concern in my face, when the new driver pulled up. Was this some kind of a scam? I should have taken the colectivo!
The new driver’s vehicle was fairly new and he greeted us warmly, putting our bags into the trunk of his car. We pulled back onto the roadway and attempted to make some headway amidst the thick traffic.
As luck would have it, we hadn’t traveled very far when his car began to overheat!
Yes, believe it!
Now I was sure that it was a scam and both my son and I were going to be sold into Guatemalan slavery!
DEFINITELY should have taken the colectivo!
We pulled over once again into the parking lot of a gas station and he opened the hood of his car. He made a phone call and I could see that his was frustrated and embarrassed, which actually made me feel a bit better. He told me fifteen minutes…someone would be there to help us continue our journey, but fifteen turned into thirty. At this point, I turned on my phone service and checked to see if Uber was available. It was either that or hail one of the cabs that we were regularly seeing passing us by.
Finally, after asking him, again, how much longer, the replacement driver pulled in next to us. On our way, once again, exhaustion overcame us and we dozed in the air conditioned comfort of the driver’s car. Thankfully, as we headed out to the highway, traffic thinned and we were arriving in Antigua around 3:00 in the afternoon, only an hour later than we had anticipated.
The next step was finding our hotel on the walled, cobblestone streets. Although I had given the driver the address, he seemed to drive for a while, dodging the many pedestrians crossing the narrow streets. Finally, he jumped out and checked a couple of doors returning to tell that we had arrived at the correct spot.
Paying him the arranged fare, we breathed a sigh of relief and saying a quick prayer. We had made it safely.
Next time, I’m hiring a colectivo!
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Booking A Shared ShuttleFrom Guatemala City Airport to Antigua
