When I visit a cool city, I am always looking to find a souvenir that’s equally as cool as the city it comes from, that will bring to mind the great time that I had or add to one of my existing collections.
In Charleston, the place to go and find those mementos is the City Market, a historic market complex in the downtown area. Covering four city blocks, the market, established in the early 1800’s, is one of the oldest public markets in the nation and listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Since this awesome shopping arcade was located across the street from my hotel, I spent quite a bit of time wandering through the sheds and the Great Hall. There was no shortage of things to buy or eat and sometimes the whole experience was one of entertainment, watching the painters paint and jewelry makers craft their pieces. The basket weavers were of special interest to me as their pieces reminded me of the ones I have seen in Africa. This particular style, however, was originally made to winnow rice in the plantations. The sweetgrass basket tradition was passed down over time and now highly sought after as a piece of art from Charleston.
And if entertainment is what you seek, between the months of March and December, you can visit the Night Market on Friday and Saturday evenings where more than a hundred talented artists and craftsmen exhibit their wares amidst live entertainment.
City Market is home to more than 300 industrialists and is open every day of the year except December 25th. Keep in mind, however, that weekends are busier than weekdays and summer livelier than winter, where you might find a larger number of empty tables.
So if you find yourself in Charleston, enjoy being outdoors, love shopping for locally made items and appreciate meeting locals, this is your place! And when you are done with your shopping, take a climb to the top floor of the front of the market for a visit to the Confederate museum!
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Many years have passed since I last visited Charleston, South Carolina.
My memories of the southern city were vague, recollecting only that it had reminded me of New Orleans and my home state of Louisiana and that we had stayed in a hotel that was reported to be haunted!
When I had the opportunity to visit with my husband, who was in town for business, I decided that I would use every waking moment to re-discover everything that makes Charleston…Charleston!
Having already marked off the tourist-worthy points of interest on my map, I had planned to start my explorations bright and early the next morning. Being that it was already the later part of the afternoon, I headed out into the unseasonably warm temperatures intending to only take a walk before dinner.
Walking through the City Market, browsing a bit of the artistic fare displayed for sale, I made my way to the waterfront. Stopping to take in the tranquil view of the Charleston Harbor, I continued my stroll through Waterfront Park admiring the fountains and the old oaks towering above. Heading up to East Bay Street, I found myself at the Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon.
The Charleston landmark was completed in 1771 and is the site of some of the most important events in South Carolina’s history. Used as a Commercial Exchange, a Customs House, a Post Office, City Hall, Military Headquarters, it now operates as a museum. Once the property of both the British and United States governments, the Confederacy and the Charleston City government, it is now owned by the state of South Carolina and the Society of the Daughters of the American Revolution and is operated by the City of Charleston.
As it was the later part of the afternoon, with less than an hour available until closing, I made the quick decision to squeeze in one landmark. After paying my admission, I was instructed to head down to the bottom floor to catch the final tour of the day before squeezing in a visit to the remainder of the museum.
Our tour guide, dressed in Confederate period attire, escorted us through the bottom floor of the Exchange which was converted into a military prison known as the Provost or “dungeon”. Here, American prisoners of war, British soldiers, private citizens and enslaved people were kept here to endure the harsh conditions.
Though the dungeon no longer seems like such a scary place, with its full scale dioramas depicting life in the bowels of the building, I can only imagine the vast number of prisoners (and rats) crammed in this small space with its darkened interior and inhumane conditions. It was no wonder that the survival rate was scant.
With the tour completed, I headed upstairs to investigate the remainder of the institution admiring the Georgian-Palladian design of the building which was constructed from the finest materials and was once a symbol of the city’s worth.
The Old Exchange entertained President George Washington in 1791, events that were attended by hundreds of members of the Charleston aristocracy. It was also a meeting place for local Patriots and hosted South Carolina leaders as they debated and approved the U.S. Constitution. It is one of only four structures remaining where the nation’s founding document was originally ratified. The room of the Daughters of the American Revolution, located on the lower level, also displays a copy of the Declaration of Independence given to the Chapter in 1912 by Brig. General George Gordon Greenough, great nephew of Ann Harrod Adams, sister-in-law of John Quincy Adams. Despite these remarkable events in the nation’s history, there was also many darker notes, including the fact that it was a location often used for slave trading.
There are many artifacts displayed throughout the museum including a setup depicting the Old Post Office once located in the Old Exchange in the 1880’s.
As I walked through the upper floor, I wandered through the Colonel Isaac Haynes Room, dedicated to the patriot who fought in the Seige of Charleston in March 1780. He was hanged in 1781 in Charleston by British troops for espionage and treason.
One of the displays that stood out was of two paintings crafted to commemorate Washington’s visit to Charleston by John Trumbull. The original painting depicted Washington in 1777 prior to the Second Battle of Trenton. When the leaders rejected the painting, citing that Washington should have been painted as he was during his Charleston visit, Trumbull agreed to a second painting which showed Washington standing in nearby Mount Pleasant with the Charleston skyline visible in the background. Originally, the painting was displayed there in the Great Hall of the Old Exchange until City Hall was moved to is present location.
Quite an interesting start to my Charleston discovery…
Guess what I would be going in search of the next day?
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Address: 122 East Bay Street, Charleston, SC 29401
Hours: 0900-1700, daily. Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. Tour times, 0900-1700 every day on the half hour.
Admission: Adults, $10.00, Children (7-12 years), $5.00, Children (under 7 years), free. Discounts are available for Senior/AARP, Military, Teachers, Students, Children, and groups of six people or more. The Old Exchange also offers discounted combination tickets with the Old Slave Mart Museum that provide access to both sites. Adults, $15.00, Senior/AARP, $11.00, Children (7-12), $8.00, Children (0-6), free
When in Milan, everyone ensures a visit to the Duomo, the city’s wondrous cathedral.
There are, however, a great many other churches throughout the confines of the city limits, each with their own special notoriety.
Having made many trips to the Duomo, I have made it my mission to mark off each of the others on my map during my visits to Milan. One by one, I researched and chose carefully for the particularities of each. As I set out from my hotel, I made my way toward the the one that I had my eye on and it was actually just around the corner from the Duomo…Santa Maria presso San Satiro.
This Italian Renaissance structure was built from 1476 to 1482 and houses the early medieval shrine to Satyrus, brother of Saint Ambrose. Constructed on the site of a primitive place of worship, dating back to 879, the church was commissioned by the Duke Galeazzo Maria Sforza and designed by Donato Bramante. It was once an important pilgrimage site during the 13th and 14th centuries when word reached the masses that it contained an image of the Madonna that shed real blood when stabbed.
Though there are many interesting features, the one that everyone comes to see is the false apse, one of the early examples of trompe l’oeil. Working with a small plot of land within the city, there was not enough space to build the choir, the space behind the altar. The church’s dimensions had to be abridged, making the space awkwardly short. Bramante’s solution was to formulate an area by creating an optical illusion. As I walked into the space, indeed, there appears to be a real apse behind the altar, but as I made my way throughout the church and to the side of the altar, it was evident that it is only a relief applied to the back of the wall.
I must admit, I was so intrigued, I made three or four trips back and fourth from the entrance of the church to the side of the altar to compare what I was seeing.
After resolving my visions, I spent a great deal of time discovering the other treasures within the multi-naved church, including an image of Virgin with Child and Two Donors, the 15th century baptistry, several terracotta busts in the sacristy, an altarpiece of the Extasis of St. Phillip Neri by Guiseppe Peroni and outside, the Romanesque bell tower that dates back before the 1480s construction. Besides the main attraction, however, is one other major piece of artistic importance, the Cappella della Pietà, the chapel built in the 9th century to honor Saint Satiro, brother of Saint Ambrose. This chapel houses the 15th century terra-cotta Pietà and lovely Byzantine frescoes and Romanesque columns. As is throughout the rest of the church, the lighting is dim, but you can drop in 1 euro into the box so that the space will be illuminated.
The rich decorations throughout the church intrigued me as I wondered throughout investigating every niche. The ceiling of the main nave was golden and lent to the warm glow throughout and the beautiful tri-chrome floor under the magnificent dome was spectacular.
Exiting the church, I turned to re-examine the facade which remained largely unfinished, until the 19th century, due to disagreements between the architect and the executor Giovanni Antonio Amadeo. Tucked away behind the gates, on Via Torino, its quite easy to realize how many people would walk on by, mesmerized by lure of the great Duomo which lies a short distance away.
Don’t walk on by. Don’t go to the Duomo.
Step through the gates and discover this work of artistic and archaeological importance!
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No discriminating religious institution visitor here!
Churches, temples, synagogues, mosques, chapels, basilicas, monasteries, convents…you name it! They are all on my visitation list when exploring a new city.
When we set out for our day in Mumbai, I had a loose plan. I knew that if we encountered any temples or churches, I would want to visit, however, I didn’t have any particular one in mind.
“Abdul…can we visit a temple?” (as our day came to a close…)
Abdul navigated his way through the streets of Mumbai and before long, we pulled over to the side of the street. He showed us the entrance to the Jain Temple Mumbai (also known as the Babu Amichand Panalal Adishwarji Jain Temple) and told us that he would park further down the street and wait for us.
Not sure what was in store for us, we cautiously entered the front gates and were immediately confronted with the rules of the temple. Some were incredibly interesting!
When I began to glance at the temple and its surroundings, I was extremely excited to explore it further. The temple is very interesting in that the entire premises is covered by a high roof that allows light to enter and which I also assume protects the decorated temple from the elements. The Jain Temple Mumbai is a place of religious significance and was built more than a century ago in 1904. The shrine is dedicated to Adishwara, the founder of Jainism and is the largest of the Jain temples in the city.
Ditching my sandals, I approached the temple and was stunned by its unique architecture and beauty. I was awed at the two stone elephants that greeted me at the stairway and the ornate archways and pillars that lured me further inside. Admittedly, I was a bit apprehensive about stepping inside and taking photos, but no one seemed to pay me any attention as they went about their business.
As I made my way throughout the temple, I discovered colorful sculptures and columns decorated with multi-hued and intricately carved flowers, marble floors and detailed paintings. As I glanced upward, I marveled at an amazing domed ceiling bedecked with symbols of the zodiac.
There were many worshipers, each paying their respects to the twenty-four tirthankaras and idols that could be found in the small alcoves. What I found most interesting, however, was a statue that a group of women were painstakingly changing. There were metal pieces, sort of like a coat of armor, that they were switching out to give the statue a different look. Was this Adishwara? Sadly, I never discovered the answer.
At the time, I didn’t know much about this religion, however, I later learned from Abdul, that the Jains are peace loving people who maintain their principles and avoid violence, most not even willing to kill an insect. They take great pride in and contribute greatly to the maintenance of their temples.
Having been to many different temples in throughout the world, I knew that I would see something different here in Mumbai. How ornate and elaborate it was, however, was a surprise to me and I loved the unique elegance of this place. It was no surprise to learn that this particular temple is renowned among the Jains for its unsurpassed beauty. Also, my visit left me wondering how I never knew this religion to exist. I am a well traveled person and am familiar with many religions and cultures yet, this one escaped me. Nonetheless, I was extremely grateful to be allowed to visit and learn something new and valuable.
Thank you Abdul!
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Chandabala Jain Temple
Address: 41 Walkeshwar Ridge Road, Malabar Hill, Mumbai
Located on a pretty, tree-lined street in downtown Mumbai is the former home of one of the most famous people of India.
Mahatma Gandhi.
This was our second stop (if you don’t count shopping and a quick breakfast at Leopold’s) on our fast tour of Mumbai and I was very excited to see the house that Gandhi lived in and used as his headquarters from 1917 to 1934.
Mahatma Gandhi, who was born in 1869, in western India, was an Indian lawyer, anti-colonial nationalist and political ethicist who led the country to obtain their independence from British Rule. He led a very eventful life and is widely known around the globe even in death.
His home on Laburnum Road now acts as a museum and is free to visit. Upon entry, I discovered the small lobby of the museum, however, the majority of the first floor is used as a library, filled with books and manuscripts. There is a large bust of Gandhi, his many quotes emblazoned above the doorways and countless pictures line the walls.
Moving on to the second floor, up a staircase lined with photographs, I found the space which acted as Gandhi’s personal bedroom. Kept preserved in its original condition, his bed and charkha (spinning wheel) were kept as he left them and the space is protected by glass partitions. Also on the second floor is a photo gallery with snapshots of Gandhi’s life. There are also photos, letters and press releases on display for visitor’s to peruse.
The best part of the second floor, however, are the dioramas. These beautifully constructed scenes highlight important events and meetings in Gandhi’s life.
I later found that there is a rooftop terrace that is accessible, however, I do not remember finding an entrance. It was a beautiful day and I wish we had been able to ascend to a spot where I am sure that Gandhi spent his afternoons enjoying the sunshine.
Though my visit was rather short, this historic home had an amazing story to tell. It was most enjoyable walking through and discovering the space that such an important figure called home.
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You’ve never heard of it? It is the basilica that plays second fiddle to Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece which resides in the adjacent refectory!
Most people do not trek across Milan in search of this church. They duck inside before or after the visits to the Last Supper or visit as a consolation when they cannot get tickets to lay their eyes on the famous painting.
I am here to tell you, however, even if you can’t secure tickets to the Last Supper, a visit to Santa Maria delle Grazie, next door, is a must. Years ago, when I was practically laughed out of the ticket office when I inquired about last minute tickets, I consoled myself with a visit to the basilica. Now considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was constructed under the orders of the Duke of Milan Francesco I Sforza and completed in 1469. While the basilica contains some amazing treasures, it is the notorious painting, housed in the refectory of the adjacent convent that attracts thousands of visitors each year. Though the Last Supper is the main attraction, it is not to say that the church itself should be overlooked.
Taking decades to complete, the church was originally designed to serve as the burial site of the Sforza family, however Ludovico Sforza’s wife, Beatrice was the only member buried in the church in 1497.
Since I arrived extremely early for my visit to the Last Supper, I decided to take another look around the basilica I had visited so many years ago. As I entered the structure, I vividly remembered its beauty and all that it has to explore, however, the chapels on each side of the church are the definitely the highlights. Upon completion of the church, the most powerful families who were granted patronage of the chapels to bury their loved ones, then decorated each chapel with the artistry of the period’s masters and each is magnificent and unique.
The Chapel Atellani’s prominence is an altar-piece of the Virgin Mary with Child, St. Vincent Marty and St. Vincent Ferrer by Cariolano Malagavazzo dating back to 1595. The frescoes from the 17th century were painted by the Fiamminghini brothers and detail the the miracles by St. Vincent Ferrer and his martyrdom.
The Chapel of St. John the Baptist displays an ornate candelabra, an ancient organ and an altar-piece of St. John the Baptist admonishing a devotee painted by Marco d’Oggiono. The frescoes on the walls and ceiling were painted by Ottavio Semini in the 16th century.
The Chapel of St. Joseph’s altarpiece was completed by Tiziano’s disciple, Paris Bordon and highlights the Holy Family with St. Catherine of Alexandria.
The Chapel of St. Peter Martyr contains frescoes by Giambattista Lucini of St. Ludovico Beltran and St. Paul. The altarpiece is entitled The Martyrdom of St. Peter of Verona.
The Chapel of Conti (forrmerly Simonetta) offers an entrance gate of bronze, dating back to 1669, which was formerly the railing of the high altar until 1935. The altarpiece is a marble monument of the Virgin Mary received into Heaven and Eve at her feet, sculpted by Arrigo Minerbi in 1941. On the sides of the chapel are centographs of Senator Ettore Conti and his wife, Gianna Casati, by Francesco Wildt. Conti was the illustrious benefactor who ensured that Santa Maria delle Grazie was restored and rebuilt after World War II’s bombings damaged the church.
The Chapel of St. Dominic’s magnificent altarpiece is of St. Dominic, holding the rosary, receiving the book and the stick of the evangelic preaching from the Apostles Peter and Paul, by Carlo Pontion. Its walls contain fragments of the glory of the Dominican Saints by Francesco Malcotto that were originally in the apse of the choir.
The Chapel of St. Pius V contains tombstones of Branda Castiglioni (1495), Luigi Arcimboldi (1496) and Cecilia Magenta (1585). There are fragments of frescoes by Montorfano and the altarpiece of Pope Pius V is by an unknown artist.
The Chapel of St. Catherine contains a bronze Crucifix on the altar designed by Ecce Homo, earthenware on the altar table, six bronze tablets with episodes of the life of St. Catherine of Siena, and a (now walled-up) reliquary where the mantle of the Sienese saint is preserved. There are paintings in the lunettes of St. Catherine of Alexandria and St. Catherine of Siena and an altarpiece of the Virgin Mary of Child and St. John the Baptist and St. Peter Martyr, by Nicolo of Cremona.
The Chapel Della Torre highlights a painting of the Virgin Mary adoring the infant Jesus with St. Ambrose, St. Lucy and the offerer’s family. If you glance upward, you will notice an example of the original decoration of the XV century.
The Chapel of Marliani (or The Angels Chapel) depicts an altar piece of St. Michael defeating Satan which dates back to 1560 and there are nine angelic choirs on the vault by an unknown painter.
The Chapel of St. Martin de Porres has four cenotaphs from the XVI century on the walls and an altar piece of St. Martin in Ecstasy by Silvio Consadori.
Chapel Sauli’s main focus is the Crucifixion by Giovanni demio of Schio. On the walls there are elegant angels created by earthenware covered in stucco, that carry the instruments of the Passion. If you look closely, there is evidence remaining of the bombardment from World War II.
Finally, St. Crown’s Chapel offers the Deposition from the Cross by Caravaggio dating back to 1616. Its original masterpiece, The Crowning of Thorns Coronation by Tiziano was stolen in 1797 but was recovered and now housed in the Louvre. The vaults and walls display frescoes with scenes from the Passion.
After making my rounds of the illustrious chapels, I made my way through the remainder of the church, admiring the decorated vaults and domes of the nave and the apse.
The two-level choir of the friars for the holy liturgy has thirty-three Carthusian-styled seats on the lower level and forty-two on the upper level decorated with figures of angels and saints in the Lombard style. The modern organ is lowered in the middle of the floor. The choirs of Italy’s churches are always a favorite of mine with their elaborate carvings and I am always able to imagine the beautiful sounds that must emanate from this area.
The outside of Santa Maria delle Grazie is also not to be missed! Make sure to not miss the family crests that decorate the outside of the church.
Though Santa Maria delle Grazie is consistently outshined by the Last Supper which is housed in its refectory, every visitor to Milan should make their way to its location and give it the respect it deserves!
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Most churches can be construed as museums. Filled with religious works of art and exhibiting stunning architectural features, you can enter, in most cases, without paying an exorbitant fee and spend as much time as you wish, not only viewing the treasures, but spending a bit of time in solitude and contemplation.
The Church of St. Fedele is not only much like I described, but it is the only church in Milan that really does have a real art museum within its walls.
After visiting La Scala Theater, I noticed that St. Fedele Church was just around the corner. It was starting to sprinkle and if I was lucky, it would take up a bit of the time I needed to kill before dinner. Pointing myself in that direction, I covered the short distance quickly and stepped into the large square, admiring the statue of Alessandro Manzoni, the Italian poet and novelist.
The Jesuit church, which dates back to 1579 and is dedicated to St. Fidelis of Como, took the title of Santa Maria alla Scala in San Fedele when Santa Maria alla Scala was demolished in 1776 to make way for the Teatro alla Scala. Much of the destroyed church’s ornamentation from that church was brought to San Fedele.
The elegant facade which stands out in the St. Fedele Square today, was completed in 1835, however, many years later, during World War II, the church was severely damaged during a bombing raid. Though since repaired, the exterior should be examined thoroughly as it features a group of statues representing the Assumption, designed by Italian sculptor, Gaetano Matteo Monti.
The interior is a single nave church with tall columns, but adorned less ornately than others I have seen throughout Italy. There are, however, some notable pieces, including a Pietà by Simone Peterzano, a St. Ignatius by Giovanni Battista Crespi (il Cerano) a Transfiguration by Bernardino Campi, and a “Sacred Heart” by Lucio Fontana.
As I made my way around the church, I decided that it might be a short visit after all. Admiring the altar and the sanctuary, I was approached by a gentleman who asked if I would like to see the other parts of the church. He explained that St. Fedele is unlike any other in the city as it incorporates an art museum within its walls. Intrigued, I paid him the three euro entrance fee and was admitted to the sacristy.
As I made my way through the rooms of contemplation…the sacristy, the crypt, the sacellum, and the chapel of the dancers…I noticed the ancient reliquaries, liturgical objects and paintings that are usually found in religious spaces. There were also, however, works of art by Christo, Warhol, Arman, Rotella, Schifano and Radice, all collected by artist, designer and architect Nanda Vigo throughout his life. Overall, an experience that showed how important art and culture were to the Jesuits.
SacristyArt pieces mixed with religious icons at entrance to sacristy
Chapel of the Dancers
Art installation
What I enjoyed most, however, was what lies beneath the church. In the crypt, there are the remains of St. Fidelis, however, in a small airtight room on the right, there are the Relics of the 365-day Calendar. The little shrines are organized in daily order from Jauary 1 until December 31 and contain the relics of all the saints of the Catholic calendar that have been canonized until the beginning of the 19th century.
Making my way up to the church’s main level, glancing at my watch, I realized how much time had passed since I had made my way here. There was a great deal to see and experience, unlike my first impression.
Ancient artists have demonstrated over the centuries that there is a direct link between art and faith…just look at the treasures that adorn most churches. St. Fedele brings it to a new level and a new century with modern art.
Just remember, when Michaelangelo’s Pieta was placed in St. Peter’s Basilica, and he was alive, it was modern art!
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The Church of San Fedele
Address: San Fedele Street, 4, 20121, Milan
Hours: Monday and Tuesday, 0730-1630. Wednesay through Friday, 0730-1800. Saturday, 1000-1930. Sunday, 1000-2000.
Admission: Free to visit the church. San Fidele art exhibition in the sacristy and rooms of contemplation, €3
Getting There: Metro, Lines M1 and M3, Duomo stop or Tram, Line 1, The closest station: Duomo (Metro Lines M1 and M3), Teatro alla Scala stop.
He thought I was talking about the hotel in Vegas…sigh.
Many of the younger generation do not have much of an interest in opera. In fact, looking for activities in Nashville, I overheard a teen, who thought the Grand Ole Opry was an opera theater, expressly state to her parents that she would not be involved in that outing. A few years ago, it was with a determined effort that I dragged my thirteen year old to the Opera Theater in Madrid. When he ventured inside, however, he realized that he didn’t have to listen to songs in a language that he was not familiar with and yet, he became fascinated with the elaborate decor and the workings of the stage. Truly, there is something for everyone, not just the performances themselves.
For years, I have visited opera houses in cities throughout the world, yet with all of my visits to Milan, I have never taken the time to seek out a performance at the most famous opera house in the world…Teatro alla Scala.
As a former architecture and interior design student, there is nothing more fulfilling than seeing these gilded, golden-tasseled, velvet covered theaters that have hosted some of the world’s outstanding vocal talents.
After finally considering the idea of booking a performance for the evening at La Scala and discovering that I probably had not brought the proper attire, I discovered that jeans and a sweater would get me into their museum and if I timed it perfectly, I might even get a peek at the stage from one of the boxes.
Making my way to the theater, I was surprised to find a line snaking its way into the small square to the left of the famed building. Keeping an eye on the time, I knew there was a small window when rehearsals ended and the theater would be open for viewing. Finally, with tickets in hand, I was ushered inside and up the stairs to the large, columned, church-like foyer, where crowds gather before and during intermissions. It is not surprising that this space has the feel of a church…La Scala, dating back to the 1700’s, was built on the location of the church of Santa Maria alla Scala, after which it was named. Much like the treasures that can be found in a holy temple, there were beautiful chandeliers, busts of famous composers (Pucini and Toscanini) and a model of La Scala.
The doors to the theater were finally opened and I was given a number to a box that was available. Though I wish I would have had the box to myself, it was awe-inspiring to stand in this small space, looking out over the elaborate theater with its tiers of balconies and Murano chandelier and imagine witnessing one of the timeless operas being performed on the stage, in front of crowds of over two thousand.
After many minutes of drinking in this spectacle and realizing that others were trying to make their way in, I reluctantly vacated my spot along the balcony and headed back thru the foyer.
The museum, though only eight rooms, is brimming with paintings, busts, statuettes and many objects used during past performances and contain great historical value.
Though I am sure a guide would have pointed out the most relevant of the contents, there were interactive screens which described the rooms’ pieces and each of the rooms, I discovered, is dedicated to a different era in the theater’s history.
Beautiful portraits bedecked the walls in the room dedicated to the legendary sopranos of La Scala who drew crowds of admirers and another room was dedicated to Giuseppe Verdi, the composer who was very influential to the art and who passed away next door at the Grand Hotel et de Milan. Of course, no opera museum would be complete without paying reverence to the greatest soprano of the mid-20th century, Maria Callas. The gallery boasts a beautiful portrait of her, sitting on a chair next to a portrait of her arch-rival, Renata Tebaldi!
I’m sure my sons have no inkling of who Maria Callas is, but I have to admit that I learned a lot more about opera during my visit to La Scala, sparking a yearning to finally see a performance during my lifetime!
I also learned that next time I need to pack something nicer than a sweater and jeans!
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Address: Largo Ghiringhelli 1, Piazza Scala, 20121, Milano
Hours: 0900-1730, daily (last admission, 1700). Closed on December 7, 24, 25, January 1, Easter, May 1, August 15.
Admission: Adults, €9, Students over 12 years, €6, Ages over 65, €6, Children under 12, free. Open ticket €12, good for admission on the day of your choice (until Dec 31, 2020), with fast track.
Sometimes, I just love to walk around the city photographing the buildings, never having a plan and enjoying stumbling upon anything and everything.
Just recently, I was in search of a particular landmark and was a bit stumped. As I stood on the corner of Via degli Omenoni and Via Adalberto Catena, pondering which way to go, I glanced down the street and a remarkable building caught my eye. There were giant men holding up the facade! Well, not real men…stone men!
A nearby sign gave me the information that I needed…this was Casa degli Omenoni.
Casa degli Omenoni was designed by sculptor Leone Leoni as his place of residence during the 16th century. The sculptor, known for his bronze statues of Felipe II and Carlos V (which now can be found in the Prado Museum) conceived the idea for his home and place of work, however, the “omenoni” or “big men” were sculpted by Antonio Abondio, a renowned artist of the time.
Though the interior once contained a large inventory of paintings and other works of art, including the Codex Atlanticus, a book of drawings by Leonardo da Vinci, these treasures are now preserved in museums throughout the world.
Eventually sold by Leoni’s son, the home was owned by several notable Milanese families, used as the seat of a music-publishing company, the seat of a Fascist party and as a theater. Although the interior was renovated in both the 19th and 20th centuries, the facade remains largely unchanged except for the addition of the wrought iron balconies.
The exterior of the building was quite fascinating with the eight giants gracing the spaces between the windows and flanking the door frames. The men look quite ominous with scowls upon their faces and arms crossed. Honestly, I don’t think an intruder would dare to approach this residence with these wardens protecting the entrance!
You should, however, approach! Much like the “Monster House” in Rome, Casa degli Omenoni is an exquisite piece of architecture and a quick stop on your tour of Milan!
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Casa degli Omenoni
Address: Via degli Omenoni, 3, 20121,
Hours: 24 hours
Admission: Exterior free. Interior not open to public.
Getting There: A quick walk from La Scala, located behind the church of St. Fidele. Closest metro stops, Duomo, Cordusio and Montenapoleone.
The city of Prague has some of the most unique and beautiful architecture in the world.
Standing atop Petrin Hill and looking over the city, it is sometimes hard to explain how everywhere you cast your glance, there is a picture. I’ve been to many cities in Europe and yet, this is the one that always takes my breath away.
Behind Petrin Hill you can observe the elegant spires of a basilica, of the Basilica of Our Lady. Though I love churches (and this one was not open while I was visiting), it was not what I was here to see.
Basilica of Our LadyBasilica of Our Lady
Prague’s Strahov Monastery, is one of the oldest Premonstratensian monasteries, (founded in 1140), still in existence in the world and it was just around the corner from my hotel. Heading there for its re-opening after lunch, I paid my admission for both the Library and the Gallery as well as for permission to take photos. Many of Prague’s historical buildings charge to take photos, without flash (of course), and in order to not get a stern warning and risk being asked to leave, I’ve learned that it is best to pay for permission if you want to capture the beauty of these building’s interiors.
The Library is beyond description. The two halls, the Theological Hall and the Philosophical Hall are filled with over 200,000 volumes and is one of the most valuable and best preserved historical collections in the world. Though you cannot actually enter each of the rooms, you are allowed to observe from the doorways, a bit difficult when its crowded or when someone does not understand that they’ve taken enough photos and they need to make way for others. The Theological Hall, designed by Abbot Jeroným Hirnhaim, is the older of the two and was established between 1671 and 1674, while the Philosophical Hall dates from 1794. Both halls are two-stories high with ceiling frescoes painted by Siard Nosecký and Anton Maulbertsch.
Theological Hall
Theological Hall
Philosophical Hall
The Philosophical Hall was built under the direction of Abbot Václav Mayer and contains more than 42,000 volumes covering topics such as philosophy, astronomy, mathematics, history and philology, while the Theological Hall’s 18,000+ volumes contain numerous editions of the Bible, many in different languages. In the foyer area, you can inspect some of these bibles, displayed in protective cases.
The foyer also contains a large collection of curiosities from the estate of Karel Jan Erban, dating back to 1798. In large display cabinets, you can observe sea fauna, collections of insects, minerals, wax replicas of fruit, archaeological collections, ceramics, handcuff and Hussite peasant weapons. The most interesting artifact, however, is the remains of the now extinct Dodo bird.
Though there are many notable buildings within the complex including the Basilica, the Abbey Building, the Convent, the Great Monastery Restaurant and the Strahov Monastery Brewery, the only other part that was open to the public (and did not involve beer) was the Strahov Gallery.
Heading over to the Strahov Gallery, I was pleased to find that it was more than just a picture gallery. While the gallery contains a large collection (more than 1500 pieces) of Gothic, Baroque, Rococo painting and Rudolfian art, there were other halls and exhibits throughout the structure.
One of the first exhibits, located in the Romanesque Hall (the monastery’s former food storerooms) detail the origins of the Strahov monastery, including a to-scale model of the monastery, photographs and a cycle of paintings of the scenes of St. Norbert, the founder of the Premonstratensian Order. There are also artifacts used during the celebrations on the occasion of the transfer of his relics to Prague.
The Summer Refectory (dining hall) dates back to 1691 and was designed by the Burgundian architect Jean Batista Mathey. Here, my attention was drawn upward to the ceiling which is covered with an amazing fresco entitled “Heavenly Banquet of the Just with Christ as the Host” by Siard Nosecký. As my attention was then cast down, I was able to admire the series of portraits with ten important figures from the monastery.
Summer RefectorySummer RefectoryWinter Refectory
The nearby Chapter Hall also displayed a beautifully, frescoed ceiling, precious paintings and works of art including an ornate gilded altar. This important room was restored in 1990 to its original appearance and is where new members join the order.
Chapter Hall
Finally, as the gallery neared its closing hour, I headed to the exposition displaying liturgical works of arts, many of Czech descent, but others from different areas of Europe and the actual picture gallery.
Walking to the exit along the hallways, there were many exquisite statues and wide windows offering a peek at the buildings serene courtyard.
A visit to the monastery is on the shortlist of things to do while in Prague, but if I could make a recommendation, it would be to visit during the afternoon hours. Once finished, you can enjoy some of the monastery’s tasty brews and have a bite to eat while looking out on one of Europe’s most picturesque cities!
An afternoon of history, culture, views, food and, of course, DRINK, this is what I call my Happy Hours!
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Admission: Strahov Library, Adults, CZK 150 (about $6.60 US), Reduced, 80 CZK (about $3.52 US), Family (2 adults + max 3 children under 15 years), 300 CZK (about $13,20 US) , Photo Permission, 50 CZK (about $2.20 US) . Strahov Gallery (open only until 1600), Adults, 280 CZK (about $12.30 US) , Reduced, 140 CZK (about $6.16 US) , Family (2 adults + max 3 children under 15 years), 500 CZK (about $22.00 US) . Photo Permission, 80 CZK (about $3.52 US) . Children under 6 years, Holders of cards for handicapped persons, members of religious orders and congregations, teachers accompanying students, free. Children over 6 years and students up to 27 years, reduced admission.
Getting There: By Metro Malostranska (line A). Then tram 22 or 23 to Pohorelec. Scenic route, take the funicular, go to tram stop Ujezd (trams 9,12,15,20,22,23). Take the funicular railway to the top of Petrin Hill and walk 10 minutes along Strahovska street. By car, parking is free of charge at the Brusnice stop on Kepler Street.
