church – Page 10 – Snapping The Globe

The Art Lover’s Church

Rainy days aren’t usually fun days for tourists…especially when you are trying to go out and do some sightseeing! So, when I woke up from my nap in Milan and discovered that it was sprinkling a bit, what was I to do?

Grab an umbrella and raincoat and hit the streets, of course!

Since the weather forecast was not calling for the deluge to end any time that day, I reached into my bag of knowledge of local destinations and pulled out San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore.

Having researched this monastery a few times, I had also heard that it was not to be missed…and it was indoors! Perfect!

Reaching the metro station of Cadorna and consulting my map a few times, I was soon standing in front of the church’s unassuming gray stone facade on Corso Magenta.

Admittedly, it didn’t look like much.

Stepping through the doors, however, I must confess…my breath caught in my chest. An art lover’s dream, this church truly is magnificent. Being a person who has traveled the world and seen many religious institutions, I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything quite as beautiful with masterpieces covering every inch of the walls, ceilings, side chapels and altar area. It was absolutely difficult to discern which way to cast your gaze.

The church, standing on the site of a former place of worship, was constructed in the beginning of the 1500’s and is adjoined to the convent of the Benedictine nuns, the oldest female monastery in Milan. The rectangular nave is divided by a partition into two sections. The front section, which you see when you enter, is intended for the congregation’s worship and filled with artwork by major sixteenth century Lombard artists such as Bernardino Luini, who worked with Leonardo da Vinci, and his sons, Paolo Lomazzo, Ottavio Semino, Callisto Piazza and Simone Peterzano. The carved wooden altar is graced by the renowned Adorazione dei Magi (Adoration of the Magi) by Antonio Campi above it, dating back to 1578, one of the most outstanding pieces of artwork in the building.

Checking with the attendant that it was okay to photograph the area, she then made sure that I saw a sign pointing to a doorway near the altar. The Hall of Nuns.

Already in awe of what I was seeing, I was not sure I wanted to continue on to another area of the structure. Entering the doorway into a great hall, again, I was dumbfounded.

The Hall of Nuns was unlike anything I had ever seen. The long nave, flanked on each side by the wooden nun’s choir loft was presided over by a massive and obviously quite valuable pipe organ, designed by Gian Giacomo Antegnati in 1554, in the monk’s choir. Beautifully sculpted, the gold detail of the facade is only outdone by the two shutters on each side painted in tempera by Franscesco Medici.

Walking through the gallery, I was overloaded by the expanse of compositions that filled every inch of the walls, niches and ceilings. Truly breathtaking! Looking upward at the starry sky, with God, the Evangelists and angels, I made my way throughout the space, through the hall and behind the nun’s choir, finding my way back to the partition separating the Hall of the Nuns from the main congregation. Here, images by Bernandino Luini, of St. Catherine, St. Agatha, the Marriage at Cana and the Carrying of the Cross of Christ are presented.

Reluctantly leaving the space, I found my way into the location that formerly housed the Benedictine convent. Now the domicile of the Milan Archaeological Museum, many Roman remains, statues and parts of the Roman Circus can be found here. Deciding to save this for another day, I made my way through the courtyard, quickly checking out the relics that lined the area and back into the rainy day.

Glancing back at the church, I couldn’t help but stop and feel glad that I had braved the elements and taken such an incredible and artistic walk through history.

Everyone wants to see the Duomo, but everyone should seek out Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore. Truly one of Milan’s gems!

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Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore

http://www.turismo.milano.it/wps/portal/tur/en/arteecultura/architetturaemonumenti/abbaziechieseebasiliche/chiesa_di_san_maurizio_al_monastero_maggiore
Address: Corso Magenta, 15, Milano
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 0930-1930
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro: MM1 (red line) Cairoli stop, MM2 (green line) Cadorna and Sant’Ambrogio stops. Tram: 16, 18, 19, bus number 50, 58, 94.

Ancient Ambrogio

Strolling through the quiet and picturesque neighborhoods of Milan is a peaceful experience.

There are countless churches throughout the city and many that I have earmarked to visit. As I wandered through the streets, I realized that I was near the Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio. Admiring the architecture and stopping every now and then for a picture or two, I took my time as I found my way to the church.

Suddenly, I turned a corner and realized that Sant’ Ambrogio was right before me.

There went the peace and quiet.

On this day, a flower market and a flea market was taking place in the church’s courtyard as well as on the grounds. Masses of people were milling about, buying plants, flowers and clothing and some just enjoying the beautiful, sunny day.

Making my way through the throngs of patrons, I tried to take in the basilica’s enormous atrium and hut shaped facade, flanked by two red brick bell towers, the 9th century Tower of the Monks (Torre dei Monaci, used by the monks to call of the faithful to the monk’s mass) and the canon’s 12th century bell tower, one taller than the other. Two loggias decorate the facade with the upper reserved for the bishops to bless the citizens. Archaeological remains line the walls and deserve a look…when not surrounded by annuals and perennials!

As I entered the basilica, I can say that it is both breathtaking in its beauty but also in its age. Construction of this masterpiece was begun at the end of the 4th century and is known as the oldest church in Milan. Built by St. Ambrose in 379-386, it was established in an area where numerous martyrs of the Roman persecutions had been buried and was originally named Basilica Martyrum.

The first thing you notice when entering the church is that there is no transept. The Romanesque-style church has a semi-circular apse and smaller, semi-circular chapels at the end of the aisles.

Walking along the outer edges of the church, I loved inspecting the many side chapels, including the Chapel of Saint Savina and the Chapel of Saint George which house relics of the saints. The Basilica’s crypt, located under the high altar, contains the remains of three saints, Saint Ambrose, Saint Gervasus and Protasus, all of which may be accessed and viewed. The church also houses the tomb of Emperor Louis II, who died in Lombardy in 875.

The Basilica’s interior also houses the Stilicho’s Sepulchre, a magnificent fourth century sarcophagus with decorated high reliefs and the Oratory of San Vittorio, a chapel built before the first basilica and incorporated during construction.

For an small fee (2€), you may enter the Oratory and view the archaeological remains and beautiful golden domed ceiling.

Though the basilica sustained damage during Allied bombing in 1943, the integrity of the church remains and is one that should be seen while in Milan. Take your time when visiting this magnificent and ancient structure. Hopefully, when you visit, it just might be a little quieter!

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Basilica di Sant’ Ambrogio

http://www.basilicasantambrogio.it/
Address: Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15, 20123 Milano, Italy
Hours: 0700-12:00 and 1430-1900
Admission: free
Admission: Oratory, €2.00
Getting There: Metro line 2 (green line), stop Sant’ Ambrogio. The church is situated just right in front of the exit of the metro. From the Duomo, about a 15 minute walk. Bus lines, 50, 58, 94.

The Crown of Puerto Vallarta

In many Mexican cities, you will find in the heart of that city…a square dominated by a church.

Puerto Vallarta is no different, though the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe sits on a smaller square, nestled away between many buildings. Called “one of the most endearing” of the city’s landmarks, it’s wrought-iron crown can be spied almost anywhere throughout the city and one that I absolutely wanted to visit during my visit to this coastal Mexican city.

In 1903, there was a small chapel located in the current location, dedicated to the Virgin Guadalupe, however, foundations were beginning to be laid for the current church. With the arrival of Father Francisco Ayala in 1915, it was suggested that the foundations be expanded for a larger temple than had been planned.

Walls and pillars were finished by 1917, however construction began in earnest in the early 1920’s. Though construction was halted temporarily in 1926, due to the Cristero War, it was resumed in 1930 with the addition of the dome. The entire building was completed in 1940 with the exception of the two towers. The chancel and organ were installed in 1951 and the main tower, topped with the wrought-iron crown, finally in 1952.

Although it has been speculated that the crown was designed to resemble one worn by Empress Carlota of Mexico, this has been found to be untrue. To “crown” the Parish, the current crown was placed on the main tower in 1965 and was designed by José Esteban Ramírez Guareño.

When walking through the city, you can see how beloved this landmark is as it is depicted in photos, shirts, logos and postcards. Many congregate near and in front of the church and you can hear the church bells rung by the sextants 30 and 15 minutes prior to each service. If you are lucky enough to be in Puerto Vallarta during Our Lady of Guadalupe Festival (Feast of Guadalupe, December 1 through December 12), you will notice that the bell ringing and and festivities reach a frenzied level. Processions advance through the streets, including dancing warriors, banners, music, singing and colorful floats depicting scenes of the Virgin and Juan Diego, the Indian peasant that she appeared to in 1531. Thousands of visitors descend upon the city and the streets are lined with vendors selling food, sweets, souvenirs, toys and more.

Take the time to admire the church from the square and other vantage points, however, be sure to take a moment to attend mass or just take a look around between services. The architecture is a mix of various styles…neoclassical, renaissance, baroque. The interior design is a tribute to the original Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City. Particular attention should be paid the to the idolized image of Our Lady of Guadalupe and a 1945 oil replica by Guadalajaran artist Ignacio Ramirez. Beautiful religious images are painted on wood throughout the structure, carved wooden confessionals stand proud and waiting and the elaborate marble altar are the main focus of the church.

There is much love and devotion in the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe. When visiting Puerto Vallarta, be sure to make it a priority!

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Our Lady of Guadalupe

http://parroquiadeguadalupevallarta.com/
Address: Calle Hidalgo 370, Centro, 48300 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico
Mass Schedule: Monday-Friday, 0730, 1200, 1900. Saturday, 0730, 1200, 1700, 1800, 1930, 2030. Sunday, 0630, 0800, 1000, 1200, 1830, 1930, 2030

Gothic Grandeur

As you walk onto the central market square in Haarlem, you are greeted with an impressive site and an important landmark…the Gothic-style St. Bavo’s Church.

Having visited this church once before, I was anxious to set foot inside and rephotograph the interior and gaze upon one of the things I most wanted to see again, the Muller organ.

One of the most historically important organs, it was decorated by artist Jan Van Logteren and built by Amsterdam organ builder, Christian Muller between 1735 and 1738. At its completion, it was the largest organ in the world, played by many famous musicians including Mendelssohn, Handel and Mozart, at the early age of 10, and described by Herman Melville in the book, Moby Dick:

“Seeing all these colonnades of bone so methodically ranged about, would you not think you were inside of the great Haarlem organ, and gazing upon its thousand pipes?”

Though I have yet to be present for one of the concerts held regularly in the church, it is something that I aspire to attend in the future as all through the year, special opening times are organized so that the public can walk in free of charge to listen to the famous organ in action.

Originally a Catholic cathedral consecrated in 1559, St-Bavokerk was converted to Protestantism in 1958. Walking through the interior of the church, it is hard to fathom that this expansive church was once a Catholic cathedral. Lacking the embellished ornamentation that you usually find in most cathedrals, the only commonality would be the stained glass windows, however, the lack thereof is a source of interest. Haarlem was once an important center for stained glass in the 16th century, however, many of the original windows, have been lost to neglect. Today, the lack of historic, colorful windows has been remedied by installing windows from other, demolished or defunct churches. In addition, modern artists have created new pieces…a beautiful, large blue window hangs on the northern side and can be seen when entering the double doors on the Groenmarkt and was created by local glass artist Michel van Overbeeke.

Throughout the church’s floor, a large number of carvings can be seen marking the graves of many illustrious Haarlemers. Until 1831, graves were allowed within the church and many plaques hanging on the walls represent the shields of illustrious families and mark the family’s graves below them. Many famous people are buried in individual graves within the church such as Pieter Teyler van der Hulst and Willen van Heythuisen. Other notorious burials include painters Frans Hals and Maarten van Heemskerck and two circus curiosities, the giant Danial Cajanus and his midget friend Jan Paap.

Lastly, moving from the interior to the market square, take in the Gothic exterior and the low buildings built up against it, most notably the former fish market, De Vishal, now used for modern art exhibitions. The most striking piece of architecture is the Grote Kerk Tower which houses a big bourdon bell that sounds on the hour. A short tune is also played every seven and half minutes. Other bells include a carillon which is played weekly on market days. On Tuesdays in the summer, a concert of the carillon is held just before the weekly organ concert.

After your visit, step out into the Grote Markt and take in the statue of Laurens Janszoon Coster, the inventor of a printing press from Haarlem, believed to have done so simultaneously with Johannes Gutenberg (see my post, Germany, Mainz, Museum Time in Mainz). Grab a bite to eat at the many resturants that line the square and check out the many things to see in the history rich city.

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St. Bavo’s Church (Grote Kerk)

http://www.bavo.nl/
Address: Grote Markt 22 (noordzijde), 2011 RD Haarlem
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 1000-1700, August and September, also Sundays 1200-1700
Admission: Adults, €2.50, Youth (12-16 years), €11.25, Children (0-12 years), free, Guided Tour, Adults, €5.00

Passing the Time

Going for a visit to the Anne Frank museum while in Amsterdam? Be prepared for a looooonnnnnggggg wait.

Since the admission line will head down the street and onto the square, Westermarkt, here’s a way to pass the time. If there are a few people in your party, have one person hold your place in the line and the rest of you can duck into the church next door.

Westerkerk, a Reformed church within the Dutch Protestant church was built between 1620 and 1630 according to designs by Hendrick de Keyser and was one of the first purposely built and largest Protestant churches in the Netherlands.

Though very unlike the ornate and beautiful catholic churches we see throughout the world, Westerkerk has a grand, yet simplistic beauty. Walking through the entire structure, take in the large wooden pulpit, carved woodwork, massive chandeliers and the piece that always seems to steal the show in Protestant churches, the organ.

As music was considered profane during the early years of the church, the organ was not part of the interior when the church was consecrated. Located in the rear of the church, the organ’s construction was begun in 1681 by organ builder Roelof Barentszn Duyschot and finished by his son, Johannes. In 1727, the organ was enlarged with a third keyboard and many alterations were done over the years. If you are visiting during the months from April to October, a free weekly lunchtime concert is held on Fridays at one o’clock and a free concert is held almost every day in August where a collection is taken for the costs of the maintenance of the concerts and the organ.

Another smaller, choir organ is also located in the front of the church. This organ, introduced for cantata services was introduced in 1963 by D.A. Flentrop.

One of the most notable items in the church is the memorial shield on the left nave wall, which is a symbolic mark of the grave of the famous Dutch painter, Rembrandt. Living nearby at Rozengracht 184 in extreme poverty, he was buried in an unmarked church grave with several other people in the church. The exact location of his grave remains unknown.

Moving to the outside, the Westerkerk Tower, built in 1638, can be seen from most of the Old City center. Standing 85 meters tall, it is the highest church tower in Amsterdam and can be climbed during the summer months. Lucky enough to have a beautiful, sunny day, I crossed the Prinsengracht Canal, where the steeple and bright blue colored crown can be best viewed. Since the tower has remained municipal property, you may notice a large national flag hanging from the top of the tower on all important days for the city.

Other things that you can check out in the immediate area are the Anne Frank statue located on the Westermarkt and the entrance to the Prinsenhuis, which once served as the entrance to the Westerkerk. The Lord Mayor’s gate is still visible on the Westermarkt side of the church and was once used as a shortcut for the mayors of the city to reach their private stall inside the church (directly opposite the pulpit). The Homomonument is also a popular tourist attraction, commemorating all gay men and lesbians who have been subjected to persecution because of their homosexuality and is located behind the church, at the corner of the Westermarkt and Keizergracht.

Your wait for Anne Frank may be long, but there are a multitude of things you can see to pass the time. Take advantage of all of them!

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Westerkerk Church

http://www.westerkerk.nl/
Address: Prinsengracht 281, 1016 GW Amsterdam, Netherlands
Hours: 1100-1500 every day except Sunday. In October, hours are extended until 1530 and on Saturday, 1000-1730.
Admission: free
Guided climbs of the tower are held from June through September,1000 until 1930, every 30 minutes. Reservations advised. Tower admission, €7 and children under 6 are not admitted.
Every Tuesday from 1200-1300, a carillon concert on 42 bells is played from the Westerkerk Tower.

High On A Hill

Sitting high on a hill in Paris is a beautiful, white church. The Sacre Coeur.

The Roman Catholic church and minor basilica, designed by Paul Abadie, took thirty-nine years to complete and is one of the most visited landmarks in the city behind the Eiffel Tower. Not only dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, the basilica represents a penance for the defeat of France in the 1871 Franco-Prussian War and the socialist Paris Commune of 1871. From its vantage point on the Butte Montmartre, it is the recognized center of one of Paris’s most famous neighborhoods.

Montmartre is one of my favorite places in Paris. I love watching the artists paint in the Place du Tertre, the hoards of tourists and sampling the fabulous array of food choices. I love strolling the park-like setting of the Montmartre cemetery, strolling by Van Gogh’s former apartment, the Moulin de laGalette and then posing with the Passer Through Walls statue. My favorite thing, however, is paying a visit to the remarkable Sacre Coeur.

A most beautiful basilica, I am always quieted by its interior with dazzling mosaics, colorful stained glass windows and handsome organ, built by Aristide Cavaillé-Coll.

Though we did pass through the interior, our main reason for coming to the Sacre Coeur was to visit the Dome.

Paying our entrance fees, we began the arduous climb (over 300 steps) to the top of the Dome. Though I had to stop a few times and my legs were quite shaky, we reached the top and Oh! What a view!

The entire city of Paris was spread before us from the forecourt of the Basilica. Earlier, we had seen the city from the level of the River Seine, now we were seeing it over 200 meters higher and from a different vantage point than the Eiffel Tower, the highest point in Paris. The entire city and countryside can be observed from the narrow balcony that circles the dome for a 360 degree view.

The upper architecture of the basilica can also be inspected from this perspective…the compelling rooflines, the rain diverting gargoyles and the adjacent lofty towers. And the best part…I could look down on the entirety of my favorite area, Montmartre.

Finally, we made our way down the three hundred (or so) stairs, a much easier journey down than up.

In Paris, there are many ways to spy upon the city…the Dome of the Pantheon, Montparnasse Tower, the Eiffel Tower, but go to the Sacre Couer for visions of one of the most interesting parts of the city! It’s a double deal…see the interior and the surrounding area.

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Sacre Coeur Basilica

http://www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com/english/
Address: 35, Rue du Chevalier De La Barre, 75018 Paris
Hours: Main Entrance, Esplanade of the Basilica, 0600-2230
Admission: Basilica, free. Dome, Adults €6, Children, €4 (4-16yrs)
Getting There: Metro: Jules Joffrin (M° 12) + Montmartrobus (Place du Tertre stop), Pigalle (M° 12, M° 2) + Montmartrobus (Norvins stop), Anvers (M° 2) + Cable car (métro ticket) or steps, Abbesses (M° 12) + Cable car (métro ticket) or steps. Bus: 30 – 31 – 80 – 85 (Anvers Sacré-Coeur bus stop at foot of Montmartre)

The High Kirk of Edinburgh

Walking on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, a distinctive crown steeple is easily discernible in the skyline…St. Giles’ Cathedral.

The cathedral, dedicated to Saint Giles, the patron saint of Edinburgh, cripples and lepers, is the principal place of worship of the Church of Scotland and is easy to find a little more than halfway down the Royal Mile. Known as the High Kirk of Edinburgh, the church dates back to the 14th century, though extensively restored during the 19th century.

Anxious to visit St. Giles, I had planned to stop in during the middle of the day, however, realizing that I had forgotten my SD card for my camera caused me to lose precious time during the daylight hours while running back to my hotel. With it being wintertime and the sun setting so early in the afternoon, it was dark when I finally entered the imposing structure.

Always having been awed by the architecture on the outside, I was equally impressed as I walked through the doors. With soaring ceilings, arches and pulpits, the interior was quite breathtaking.

Paying the £2 photography fee so that I could take pictures during my visit, I was a bit disappointed that it was so dark outside, which lent to the dark feeling throughout. Another disappointment with the lack of exterior light was that the amazing stained glass windows that the church is known for and designed by the likes of Edward Burne-Jones, could not be seen displaying their beautiful colors and depictions.

What could be seen, however, are the four massive central pillars, said to date back to 1124 and the Thistle Chapel, an impressive chapel designed by Robert Lorimar and built to honor the Order of the Thistle, the great order of chivalry. The chapel contains stalls for sixteen knights, the Sovereign’s stall and two Royal stalls. With much to absorb, you will be enthralled for hours inspecting the religious and heraldic details, especially the carvings of the angels with bagpipes.

There are many monuments and memorials located in St. Giles, including those dedicated to Scottish regiments and individuals who perished during wars and campaigns, Scottish Military Nurses during WWI, lawyers, doctors, writers and poets including a bronze memorial to Robert Louis Stevenson. Other memorials include those to James Graham, Marquis of Montrose and his arch enemy, Archibald Campbell, Marquis of Argyll.

Interesting to check out is the statue of John Knox, the preacher of the Scottish Reformation in 1560. Knox was the minister of St. Giles’ until his death in 1572 when he was buried in the churchyard. His grave was paved over and the area became known as Parliament Square. A six foot tall, bronze statue was erected and once stood over the site of his burial in Parliament Square, but was eventually moved back into the church when it was determined that the statue was being damaged by the weather. An engraved stone set in the pavement is now the only marker for his gravesite in the square.

St. Giles is an impressive and historic church located in the heart of Edinburgh. Though I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to St. Giles, I do think that a return visit is in the cards for a future trip to Edinburgh…during the daylight hours!

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St. Giles Cathedral

http://www.stgilescathedral.org.uk/
Address: Royal Mile, Edinburgh EH1 1RE
Sunday Mass Schedule: 0800 (Holy Communion in the Holy Cross Aisle), 1000 (Choir, Sermon, Holy Communion), 1100 (Choir, Sermon), 1800 (Program of Music), 2000 (Holy Communion on last Sunday of the month).
Weekday Mass Schedule: 0800 (Holy Communion on Wednesday and Friday mornings), 1200 (Daily service, Monday-Saturday)

Unfinished Business

The late Antoni Gaudi has some unfinished business in Barcelona. An unfinished church…Sagrada Familia. Ever hear of it?

About three or four years ago, in order to accommodate my family’s busy schedule, I decided to work a trip that flew over the Mother’s Day weekend. Only the second time that I had ever been away from my children on the holiday, I decided that I was going to make the most of my day and find something extra-special to occupy my time in Barcelona.

Deciding to visit the Sagrada Familia, the preeminent masterpiece of architect Antoni Gaudi, in the Catalan city, I planned to spend my afternoon gazing upon the unfinished beauty of this magnificent church. Having studied architecture, I was touched by its complexity, references to nature and combination of Gothic and Art Nouveau styles. The fact that it had recently passed the midpoint of its completion enamored me further. Knowing that I would have to come again and again before its expected completion date of 2026 was okay…I could follow its progression.

Spending another day in Barcelona recently, I decided that it was time to re-visit Sagrada Familia to see how much it had evolved over the last few years. During that last visit, I had walked up to the church, waited in line, purchased my ticket and walked right in. Things were a bit different this time. Once I arrived at the hotel, I logged into the Sagrada Familia website and purchased a ticket. Since all tickets are for timed access, I was lucky to be able to purchase a ticket for a 5:30 pm entry. This was perfect. I could sleep a bit late, make my way in that direction and still be done by dinner.

It was a beautiful, sunny day as I walked in the direction of the one of the most famous Roman Catholic churches in the world, one, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. Although construction began in 1882 and is still continuing, the church was consecrated and proclaimed a minor basilica by Pope Benedict XVI in 2010.

Finding large numbers of tourists milling around the perimeter of the church, I made my way to the entrance and presented my ticket at the northeast side of the institution. Walking up the stairway, I had to take care to carefully make each step as I could not keep from gazing upward at the intricate carvings making up the Nativity facade which is flanked by four spire-like bell towers.

Once in the interior of the church, my gaze was immediately drawn upward. The vaulting of the ceiling in the apse is spectacular and something I have never seen in any other church as well as the forest of exclusive columns grown from the imagination of its architect. These columns were under construction during my last visit, but now stand tall, proud and almost treelike.

The choir loft is especially colorful late in the afternoon when the sun is low and the colors from the legions of stained glass windows are cast upon the walls. I suspect that during each part of the day, the church maintains a unique look relative to the illumination of the sun and its position.

Work is currently being done in the chancel and the area is cordoned off restricting a continual view of the space. The Crucifixion of Christ, the Expressionist bronze sculpture by Carlos Mani, which hangs above the high altar, however, is still visible above the construction walls.

Walking around the the rear of the altar, you will find the entry to the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and Penitence, a space reserved for worship and contemplation and the location of Gaudi’s tomb. During my visit, I was unable to navigate this space as a private baptismal ceremony was being conducted. Here, you will also find the pipes of the grand organ than fills the space with its melody.

Should you wish to attend a service in the basilica, do not expect regularly scheduled masses as you would in other basilicas. Throughout the year, occasional masses are held which are open to the general public, though an invitation must be held to attend. Information when available can be obtained from the website.

The towers’ entry points are from lifts in the interior of the church. Since a separate ticket is required, I was unable to visit as no tickets were available when I purchased my entry earlier in the day. Six new towers will be added before the anticipated completion in 2026, with the tallest being 564 feet, making it the tallest religious structure in Europe. When finished, there will be a total of 18 towers, 12 being on three facades, the Nativity facade, the Passion facade and the Glory facade. An additional four towers will represent the four evangelists and will surround the largest middle tower, dedicated to Jesus Christ. The final tower dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary will be over the apse.
After exiting the church on the opposite side, turn around and set your eyes on the Facade of the Suffering Way. Not as detailed as the Nativity facade, this facade is expressionistic and modern. Gaudi once said that if he had started construction with this facade, people would have distanced themselves from his work.

After walking to the right, you can visit Gaudi’s workshop and the museum.

As with the interior of the basilica, light affects how you view the structure. Before you enter the Sagrada Familia, take time to walk around the entire structure and examine all four sides (though two are still under construction). After your exit, walk around again, I promise, things will look different as the sun changes direction and the type of light is casts. Truly a thing of beauty!

With about sixty-five percent of the Sagrada Familia finished, the completion date is planned to coincide with the hundred year anniversary of Gaudi’s death. The present chief architect is Jordi Fauli, who leads a team of forty construction workers. He is the ninth generation of architects to lead the construction of the basilica and is expected to be the final architect bringing alive the dreams and imagination of Antoini Gaudi.

Glad that I had taken the time to revisit this architectural phenomenon, my plans are to come back every three of four years until its completion. Next time, hopefully the towers will be on my agenda and I will experience all of the new renovations and additions that are in store. If you happen to find yourself in Barcelona, make sure to plan accordingly and see this amazing work of art!

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Sagrada Familia

http://www.sagradafamilia.org/en/
Carrer de Mallorca, 401, 08013 Barcelona, Spain
Hours: November to February, 0900-1800, March, 0900-1900, April to September, 0900-2000, October, 0900-1900, December 25, 26, January 1 and 6, 0900-1400.
Admission: Tickets may be purchased online (recommended) or at the ticket counter if available. Sale of tickets finished 15 minutes before closing time.
Option 1: Entry ticket, audioguide and towers, 29€
Option 2: Entry ticket, audioguide and Gaudi House Museum (Park Guell) 24€
Option 3: Entry ticket and guided tour, 24€
Option 4: Entry ticket and audioguide, 22€
Option 5: Entry ticket, 15€
Getting There: Metro: Lines 2 and 5. Sagrada Familia Station

The Marble Church

Above most rooftops of Copenhagen, in the elegant area of Frederiksstaden, you can see the copper green dome of the Marble Church. Impressively beautiful and near the Amalienborg Castle and The Opera, the Marble Church (or the Frederik’s Church, its official name) is one most tourists aspire to visit on a trip to the Danish city.

Having walked past this Lutheran church a few times before, I had never set foot inside its doorways. Currently, lots of construction behind and adjacent to the church takes away from its impressive facade, however, when stepping inside, you are struck by the awe-inspiring massive dome…the largest dome in Scandinavia…with a span of almost 102 feet and decorated with a painting of the twelve apostles. Though not as large, this dome was supposedly inspired by the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

In 1749, King Frederik V decided to build a church to honor God, the absolute monarchy and the royal house of Oldenborg celebrating the tercentenary of ruling the Country. The church and town were named after him and together with his leading court architect, Nicolai Eigtved, they embarked on the monumental project.

The foundation stone was laid October 30, 1749 and a mighty domed church was planned. Finances were limited but the King refused to cut back on materials, thus slowing progress. Large solid blocks of marble from eastern Norway were used to build the walls of the church, furthermore, increasing costs.

After the deaths of Eigtved in 1754 and King Frederik V in 1766, Frederik’s son, King Christian VII decided to suspend the project. No progress was made for 100 years with the walls, at barely a height of 60 feet. Although the site was deemed a ruin, it was a popular motif for many artists. Eventually, banker and financier C.F. Tietgen took over the project in 1874. The rebuilding started later that year under architect Ferdinand Meldahl and was finally completed, after 20 additional years of construction, on August 19, 1894.

One of the highlights of most Copenhagen tours, be sure to expect busloads of tourists to be on site. If you can dodge the hoards, however, be sure to take in the 14 bronze statues of prominent Danish Church Fathers that surround the church (with present construction, hard to see all). On the balustrade around the dome are sculptures in zinc of 18 historical figures from the bible…prophets and apostles, in addition to Martin Luther, the founder of Reformation. On the interior, note the motifs from the 42nd Psalm that flank the altar and observe the the church’s two organs. The oldest, referred to as the Swan Organ, is no longer in use, however, the newer Marcussen organ is currently being used during services (and was being tested while I was visiting). In the front chapel, take in the woodcarvings depicting the Deposition.

A most beautiful and historic church, that is well worth a visit while in Copenhagen, will take, at most, about a half hour to visit (unless taking the Dome Tour). It can be combined with a visit to Amalienborg Palace and countless other attractions in the area.

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The Marble Church

http://www.marmorkirken.dk/
Address: Frederiksgade 4, 1265 København K
Admission: free
Hours: Monday-Thursday and Saturday 1000-1700. Friday and Saturday, 1200-1700.
Dome Tours, Saturday and Sunday 1300 and 1500 and weekdays at 1300 from June 15-August 31. Admission for dome tours, Adults, 35 DKK, Children (under 18), 20 DKK.
Getting There: Bus, 1A, 15, 20E. Distance from Town Hall Square, 5 km, about 20-30 min walk.

Fool Your Eye

It has been said that the Italians love a good optical illusion.

If you do too, when in Rome, here is the place for you. The church of St. Ignatius of Loyola, located near the Pantheon, not only boasts breathtaking frescoes and amazing architecture, but a fake dome!

Founded in 1551 by St. Ignatius, as a church of the Roman College and inspired by the Jesuit mother church, the Church of the Gesù in Rome. Completed in 1650, it was designed with a Latin cross plan and numerous side chapels, the focus being on the high altar at the end of the eastern apse. Decorated with colored marble, animated stucco figural relief, richly ornamented altars, extensive gilding and Corinthian pilasters ringing the entire interior, it contrasts with its unassuming facade overlooking the Piazza di S. Ignazio.

What stands this church, designed by Jesuit mathematician Orazio Grassi, apart from so many others in Rome, is it that when money was not available for a dome, a painter was hired to create the effect of one.

When entering the church, the overall effect is one of vastness and richly appointed ornamentation. My advice to you is to save the best part for last. Take your time to walk along each side of the church and inspect each of the chapels and the main altar. Each of the chapels are different and worthy of individual inspection containing amazing altarpieces and artwork.

The chapel in the right transept, dedicated to St. Alloysius Gonzaga, houses the remains of Cardinal St. Robert Bellarmine and a ceiling painted by Andrea Pozzo who also created the fresco ceiling in the chapel in the left transept. Pay close attention to his work here as you will see it again. The chapel in the left transept also houses the relics of Saint John Berchmans. The chapel just to the right of the church’s presbytery (at the south-east corner) houses the funerary monuments of Pope Gregory XV and his nephew, Cardinal Ludovisi, the church’s founder.

Move into the center of the church. The main highlights of the church are the magnificent frescoes created by Andrea Pozzo. The ceiling painting, which covered the whole length of the nave, depicts the entry of Ignatius into paradise.

Next, stand on the marble disc at the center of the church, and gaze upward, you will see a dome. But is it?

Figures that are in reality painted horizontally seem to rise up towards the heavens. The dome also seems to have a real vaulting, however, with closer inspection, you will see that it is really flat…a trompe-l’oeil. A true masterpiece by Andrea Pozzo.

Leaving the church, take a few minutes to admire the Piazza Sant’Ignazio spread out before the church. The square with its richly hued baroque/rococo styled buildings, designed by Raguzzini, house an office of the Carabinieri, the Italian paramilitary police.

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St. Ignazio Church

http://santignazio.gesuiti.it/en/
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0730-1900, Sundays and holidays, 0900-1900. Free guided tours, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, 1500-1800.
Admission: free
Getting There: Located near the Pantheon