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Who Was Jennie Wade?

Jennie Wade.

I had no idea who this was and why she would have a house named after her in Gettysburg, so I pulled into the parking lot, went inside and discovered an incredible story.

Embarking on the self-guided tour, I was first given an introduction by one of the staff appropriately dressed in period attire. At the entrance door, I was shown the bullet holes that both made Jennie Wade a notable name and ended her life.

As the Confederate troops were descending upon Gettysburg from the north and the Union troops from the south, the dwelling of Georgia McClellan, Jennie’s sister, was caught between the two armies in what was called “No Man’s Land”.

Unable to leave the city, as her sister was due to deliver a child and her mother ill, she was determined to make the best of the dangerous situation. During that summer, Jennie did what she could to keep up with the demand for bread and water and medical care for the troops. While standing in the kitchen, baking biscuits, the armies began firing upon each other, striking the house multiple times. One of the bullets pierced two doors, striking Jennie and killing her instantly where she stood in the kitchen. Although almost 50,000 soldiers were killed during the three day battle, Jennie became Gettysburg’s only civilian fatality.

As the guide left me, I made my way into the house, entering the kitchen. In front of the small table, I stood in the same spot where Jennie took her last breath. Sadly, there are still traces of Jennie’s blood on the floorboards and the kitchen was left mostly as it was on the day of her death.

The house is authentically furnished and it was easy to transport myself back to that time and imagine how it must have felt to go about one’s daily life while a war was waging outside the door.

Before I followed the the directions in the pamphlet given to me by the guide, I noticed a sign on the ill-fated door. Apparently, legend has it that if an unmarried girl puts her ring finger through the bullet hole in the door, she will receive a proposal of marriage within a year. There was even a letter from a happy couple, one of many received by the staff.

Entering the front room, I discovered that although it was probably originally slated to serve as a parlor, it served as Jennie’s sister’s room, fitted with a colorfully outfitted bed, small writing desk, cradle and fireplace. After careful inspection, I discovered a bullet hole from ammunition that pieced one of the bedposts.

Making my way up the rear staircase, I discovered two large bedrooms which made up the length of the house. Interestingly, there was a hole in the center wall which allowed access to the adjacent home. Just before that ill-fated day, an artillery shell had entered the home through the roof, knocking out the wall and this was the way Jennie’s body was removed from the home.

Walking through the ravaged partition, I made my way into the home next door, which belonged to the McClain family. Decorated with much finer furnishings, it was laid out in much the same way as the McClellan house except for the parlor remaining as it was originally designated. The large display cabinet contains many artifacts which include, envelopes addressed to Jennie from her suitor, Jack, a photo of Jennie, the 10 pound parrot shell which struck the house on July 2, 1863, a letter describing the shell and the floorboard where Jennie fell.

Exiting the home, the directions led me to the cellar. It wasn’t until later while looking back at my photos that I realized that it displayed a re-creation of the viewing of Jennie’s body under the quilt at the end of the room. Thankfully, I did not realize it at the time…this was very creepy in a town known for ghosts! Finally, ending my tour in the gift shop, I found many souvenirs and collectibles that keep the memory of Jennie alive. The staff in the giftshop were extremely helpful with additional information and provided me with a map of Evergreen Cemetery, where Jennie Wade’s grave can be found.

Off I went, in search of Jennie.

The Evergreen Cemetery, built in 1854, is adjacent to the National Cemetery and is part of Gettysburg Battlefield Historic District. Experiencing three days as a battlefield, it was destroyed and desecrated. Graves were run down and monuments destroyed.

*Headstones destroyed during the Battle of Gettysburg*

Today, it is immaculately kept and many notable citizens are interred here. Two Confederate soldiers are buried in the cemetery and some tombstones still display battle damage. The most famous person, however, is Jennie Wade. Located near the front of the graveyard, hers is a tall monument, topped with a statue. Her tombstone states, “Killed July 3, 1863 while making bread for the Union soldiers”.

That’s who Jennie Wade was.

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Jennie Wade House Museum

https://www.gettysburgbattlefieldtours.com/jennie-wade-house/
Address: 548 Baltimore Street, Gettysburg, PA 17325
Hours: 900-1700, daily. Tours run every 30 minutes during peak season and every 45 minutes during the Spring and Fall.
Admission: Adults, $9.00, Children (ages 6-12 years), $6.75, Children (ages 5 and under), free.

Evergreen Cemetery

https://www.evergreencemetery.org/
Address: 799 Baltimore Street, Gettysburg, PA 17325
Hours: 0700-1900, Thursday-Monday, 0700-2359, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday
Admission: free

Hallowed Ground

Many soldiers gave their lives in the Battle of Gettysburg.

The battlefield’s landscape is dotted with numerous monuments which commemorate the Union and Confederate troops that fought there. More monuments can be found at the National Cemetery, which together with the battlefield form the Gettysburg National Military Park. Though many of dead soldiers’ souls may still roam the battlefield, it is there, in the cemetery, that you are reminded of who they were from their headstones.

After the Battle of Gettysburg, the toll on both sides consisted of the loss or mortal wounding of 10,000 lives, 30,000 injuries and 10,000 soldiers captured or missing. Because of the mass casualties, most of the deceased soldiers were hastily buried in shallow graves, marked by their names scrawled on wooden crosses. Exposure to the elements began to cause the erosion of the impromptu graves and it was determined that there was an immediate need for proper burials.

The decision was made to build a cemetery, using the site from which the Union center repulsed Pickett’s Charge, and ground was broken four months after the battle on October 27, 1863. Union soldiers were relocated to the cemetery and efforts were eventually made to move the Confederate soldiers’ remains to Virginia, Georgia and the Carolinas, although there are a few that remain in Gettysburg National Cemetery.

Having been to Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond, Virginia, I have seen the graves of these Confederate soldiers. I was anxious to walk around the historic cemetery in Gettysburg to observe any similarities, but I also knew that the Gettysburg National Cemetery was famous for more than gravesites, markers and monuments. There is something that makes this cemetery stand apart from landmarks in the city and other Civil War cemeteries.

On November 19, 1863, at the cemetery’s dedication, President Abraham Lincoln stood among these departed souls and delivered a two-minute address about the sacrifices of war and the necessity of holding the Union together.

The Gettysburg Address.

Four score and seven years ago our fathers brought forth on this continent, a new nation, conceived in Liberty, and dedicated to the proposition that all men are created equal.

Now we are engaged in a great civil war, testing whether that nation, or any nation so conceived and so dedicated, can long endure. We are met on a great battle-field of that war. We have come to dedicate a portion of that field, as a final resting place for those who here gave their lives that that nation might live. It is altogether fitting and proper that we should do this.

But, in a larger sense, we can not dedicate — we can not consecrate — we can not hallow — this ground. The brave men, living and dead, who struggled here, have consecrated it, far above our poor power to add or detract. The world will little note, nor long remember what we say here, but it can never forget what they did here. It is for us the living, rather, to be dedicated here to the unfinished work which they who fought here have thus far so nobly advanced. It is rather for us to be here dedicated to the great task remaining before us — that from these honored dead we take increased devotion to that cause for which they gave the last full measure of devotion — that we here highly resolve that these dead shall not have died in vain — that this nation, under God, shall have a new birth of freedom — and that government of the people, by the people, for the people, shall not perish from the earth. —Abraham Lincoln, November 19, 1863

As I entered the gates on Taneytown Road, I immediately came upon the podium which was erected for visiting presidents who attend memorial ceremonies. To the right, is Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address Memorial.

The memorial is a semicircular stone monument which includes a bronze bust of the president, sculpted by Henry K. Bush-Brown, and two tablets on either side, one of which highlights the short speech. Though many think that such a profound address would have been inked on many pages, one of the greatest highlights of American history was only ten sentences long.

Though the memorial commemorates the Lincoln and the Gettysburg Address, the location of the great oration actually took place about three hundred yards from this spot, so I headed in that direction determined to find where it took place.

The cemetery is designed as a wide semi-circle with the Soldier’s National Monument at its center. Radiating from the monument are sections divided by state; smaller states closest to the monument and larger states along the outside. The Soldier’s National Monument, designed by the Batterson-Canfield Company is a mighty granite shaft rising from a four cornered pedestal and bearing sculptures crafted by Randolph Rogers representing war, history, plenty and peace. Glancing to the top of the shaft is the statue, “Genius of Liberty”, crowning its peak. The monument is notable as being near the location of the dais of the dedication ceremony where Lincoln delivered the Gettysburg Address. Numerous smaller monuments also dot the cemetery’s landscape, including a memorial to the Union soldiers of New York and a monument to Major General John F. Reynolds.

*Memorial to the Union soldiers of New York and Monument to Major General John F. Reynolds*

As I made my way around the grand monument and then the remainder of the cemetery, I encountered impeccable funerary grounds, maintained by the National Park Service, with a landscape dotted with cannons, concrete pathways and marble headstones.

As I reverently made my way through the premises, I discovered that although the majority of the graves accommodate the remains of Union Soldiers, the government later added sections for veterans from the Spanish-American War, World Wars I and II, the Korean War and the Vietnam War, bringing the total of veterans that are laid to rest here to more than 6,000.

When I first entered the grounds, the rain which had started during my tour of the battlefield had slowed to a hazy mist. The gloaming of the late afternoon, in addition, added to the sobering realization of just what I was surrounded by.

Not only is it a place where a speech of great magnitude was articulated by one of the greatest men in our country’s history, but it is a place where immeasurable bravery and patriotism was laid to rest. It is a place where we were reminded by President Lincoln why our great country was worth fighting for. A hallowed ground…not only for the lives lost, but the lives that continued and still continue on.

In this election year, it is important to remember the vision of our founding fathers, the lives that were given to bring our country to where it is today and to enjoy the freedoms that we have been given.

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Gettysburg National Cemetery

https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/national_cemeteries/pennsylvania/gettysburg_national_cemetery.html
Address: 1195 Baltimore Pike in Gettysburg, PA
Hours: 0600-2200, April 1 through October 31. 0600-1900, November 1 through March 31. Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
Admission: free

The Suicide Bridge

Covered bridges are a source of fascination for many and there are a few located in the southern Pennsylvania and northern Maryland areas. One, in particular, is located in Gettysburg near the battlefields and was used by both Union and Confederate soldiers.

In addition to my explorations of the Gettysburg battlefields, I had anticipated side trips into the countryside to each of these.

After leaving the Eisenhower home, however, I passed by an old trestle bridge. There were a few people standing on the bridge, which was closed to traffic, and I thought that it might be a good photo opportunity.

Parking and exiting my car, I made my way through the overgrowth on the road’s shoulder onto the bridge. A plaque on the left, identified it as the John Eisenhower bridge and one on the right, displayed details of its builders, Gilbert & Smith, and the date of its completion, 1886.

The bridge was in a state of decomposition and it’s position being infringed upon by creeping vines and weeds. Nevertheless, it was nice to observe the rushing, clear water beneath and listen to the birds chirping in the trees.

Only staying a few minutes, I hopped back on the road to complete my battlefield tour.

It was a bit later that evening, that I learned from my waiter, that the John Eisenhower bridge has been dubbed the “Suicide Bridge”. Now, there are many haunted sites throughout Gettysburg, some I knew about, however, I was curious about this one.

A little digging left me without any further knowledge about the bridge’s history but the idea that this is a paranormal hot spot, thought to be frequented by ghosts from those that have ended their lives here by hanging. Many ghost tours take you to this location, their guests hoping to see a ghostly apparition or experience energy from the other side.

I can tell you that had I known this earlier, I might have been a little apprehensive about spending time in this location. To be fair, however, it was broad daylight and didn’t seem so creepy.

Now, nighttime is another thing and I hear that many people head there during the dead of night, hoping to capture some sort of eerie phenomenon!

Not me!

If you are interested in one paranormal investigation team’s visit, check out their video on You Tube, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_PgA7RN–Q&t=836s

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John Eisenhower Bridge

Address: 185 Waterworks Rd, Gettysburg, PA 17325
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

The President’s Peaceful Place

Where does a President of the United States go for some downtime?

For President Truman, it was Key West, Florida. For President George W. Bush, it was Kennebunkport, Maine.

For President Dwight D. Eisenhower, it was his home in Gettysburg.

Tucked away near the historic Gettysburg Battlefield, is the former home of President Eisenhower, which served the president and the first lady as a weekend retreat to escape the stresses of city and presidential life. Though both preferred to leave their responsibilities in Washington D.C., sometimes they brought some of it with them by having some of the world’s leaders as guests at their retreat.

Having purchased the home in 1950 for their retirement, General Eisenhower had to vacate the premises soon after to assume command of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization in Europe. During their absence, friends took over the maintenance and daily operations of the farm.

Two years later, Eisenhower, back in the United States, was elected President. Though his primary residence became the White House, he and his wife, Mamie visited their farm as often as possible with the President taking a hands-on approach when on site. So enthralled with the success of his farm, he received one of the most personally meaningful awards of his lifetime. The first, “Honorary Master Farmer” was bestowed upon the President in July 1963.

Set amidst the fields and mountains of Gettysburg, the home was perfect for Mamie and Ike with its large kitchen, eight bedrooms, nine bathrooms, stately living room, formal dining room, glassed-in porch and 495 acres. Today, the home still retains most of its original furnishings and during regular times, tours offer an intimate look into the life and times of the President and the First Lady.

Because of Covid 19 restrictions, the Eisenhower Home and Reception Center are closed, however, the grounds of Eisenhower National Historic Site are open and visitors may drive themselves instead of taking the bus service from the Gettysburg Visitor’s Center.

Though I would have loved to have taken a peek inside the presidential home, to get a glimpse of the First Lady’s very pink bathroom, the bedroom where Indian Prime Minister Nehru stayed during his visits, the President’s office and the many gifts of State, I had to be content to wander the grounds and only imagine what lay behind the drawn curtains.

Nevertheless, the grounds were well maintained and it was easy to follow the path around the 4100 square foot, Georgian-style house, which also boasts a barn with an attached office designated for the Secret Service, a reception center, a greenhouse and a tea house. There was a putting green behind the house where the President spent many hours perfecting his game and a helipad so that the he could come and go on his own schedule.

*Secret Service Office Attached to the Milking Barn*

As you drive onto the grounds, you will spot the barns and sheds where the President’s prized herds were cared for. Though I noticed a path leading to these areas, it was not clear whether visitors were allowed during these uncertain times.

Standing behind the house, I reveled in the quiet and beautiful scenery all around me. I had only encountered one other set of visitors at the beginning of my self-guided tour and realized why the President made it a point to take a leave from the city and his responsibilities so often.

With so much peace and beauty all around, if I were the leader of the free world, I would have too! But Key West might be a better choice for me!

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Eisenhower National Historic Site

https://www.nps.gov/eise/index.htm
Address: 1195 Baltimore Pike, Gettysburg, PA 17325
Hours: 0900-1700, daily. Grounds are open for self-tour. Visitors may drive directly to the farm.
Admission: free
Video Tour: https://www.nps.gov/eise/learn/photosmultimedia/videos.htm

The Ghosts of Gettysburg

As a believer in the paranormal, some of my favorite television shows are about ghosts!

The ones pertaining to ghost hunting captivate my interest because these paranormal researchers visit some of the most haunted places in the world and the United States. One Saturday night, I remember watching an episode which highlighted Gettysburg Battlefield and the apparitions that inhabit the once bloody battlefields. I was intrigued! Knowing that Gettysburg was only a few hours away, I vowed to take a road trip one day.

Many years passed and there never seemed to be enough time to squeeze that trip in between my work and personal travels. I had been all over the world…Greece, Vietnam, Paris…you name it…but I had yet to fulfill this one seemingly small visit to the nearby state.

This year, amidst the Covid 19 restrictions, I found myself with more spare time than I could have ever imagined. Because I could not get to my job easily, I was forced to take a leave for a few months. At first, it was quite difficult to be home so much more than I was accustomed. Nothing was open, so I found myself quite bored. Eventually, however, things began to reopen and I decided that even if I couldn’t travel with my job to the international places that I was used to, I could still try and visit the many attractions in my state and the ones nearby.

One day, I packed my suitcase and decided that it was the day…the day to finally visit Gettysburg and maybe some of its ghosts!

After a quick visit to the national park website, I gathered the information needed for a successful trip, arrived in record time and checked into my hotel. Deciding to purchases tickets to explore the visitor’s center, which I felt was a necessity, I then elected to skip the tour bus (and crowds), download the Gettysburg Battle Auto Tour and do it myself!

Arriving at the opening time, I said hello to a “socially distancing” Abe Lincoln and made my way through the Visitor’s Center, taking my place in line for my time slot for the film, A New Birth of Freedom. Along with the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War, the film and the museum’s exhibits gave me the background of the events that led to the brutal three-day Battle of Gettysburg, fought between the Union and Confederate soldiers in June 1863. A major turning point in the Civil War, this battle saw more than 51,000 Americans killed, wounded or missing, most under General Robert E. Lee’s command. The museum contained a great deal of information of events that led up to the war, the war itself and the conditions that dictated the soldier’s lives. There were old photographs, soldiers’ uniforms, musical instruments ammunitions, letters, flags and a tribute to the ones that gave their lives for the cause that they believed in. Protected under glass, I spotted letters from Abraham Lincoln and headlines from his death in 1865. One of the most interesting exhibits, however, were the wooden ceiling joists taken from Gettysburg resident, John Forney’s farm. Hanging above our heads, you could see where a single artillery projectile pierced what once supported his house.

Though I was not sure what the Cyclorama would entail, after the film, I followed the crowds up the escalators to the upper level. The 360 degree painting, by artist Paul Philippoteaux, that surrounded us, depicted Pickett’s Charge, the Confederate attack on the Union forces on July 3, 1863. Once the equivalent of an IMAX theater, the life sized painting, which took over a year and a half to complete, was originally displayed with numerous artifacts and sculptures, including stone walls, trees and fences. It was quite the spectacle as I made my way around the circular room and inspected the magnificent painting as the light changed and each section seemed to take on a life of its own.

Once I had made my way back to the lower level, I quickly stopped at the Information Counter, received a map and some helpful advice on how best to tackle the vast expanses of the battlefield.

Finally in my car, I took a quick glance at the directions, turned on my Auto Tour and headed out to the first part of the battlefield in the northern part of the city, that of McPherson Ridge, where the Battle of Gettysburg began. Though I have visited many battlefields in Virginia, I wasn’t sure what differentiated Gettysburg from these combat zones. For starters, as I turned onto Reynolds Avenue, I discovered what it was…monuments, memorials, markers and plaques that commemorate and memorialize the men who fought and died during this important battle. Including the state monuments, this constitutes one of the largest collections of outdoor sculpture in the world.

Wanting to experience it all, I initially stopped at every monument, memorial, marker and plaque. An hour into my journey, however, I learned that if I wanted to finish the entire drive, I would have to step it up.

There were many locations that I stopped along the way to get a closer look including the Eternal Light Peace Memorial, the North Carolina, Virginia and Pennsylvania Memorials, General James Longstreet’s Monument, Brigadier General Strong Vincent Memorial, Little Round Top (the site of an unsuccessful assault by Confederate troop against the Union) and the monuments located on this hilltop. I learned that Devil’s Den, located below Little Round Top, with its huge boulders, is a popular place for visitors to stretch their legs and sometimes after dark, scour the areas around for ghosts!

There were many historical farms, with their buildings still proudly gracing various areas of the battlefield, including the farms of George Weikert, Abraham Trostle, John and Mary Wentz, the Sherfy Family, the Spanglers and the Klingles. I even discovered the home of our 34th president, Dwight D. Eisenhower.

*The Home of President Dwight D. Eisenhower*

Countless cannons dotted the landscape as well as other items used by the troops, including wagons. There was so much still to see as I neared the National Cemetery and the rain began to fall, dampening my efforts.

Finally, I made my way to the area that included Spangler’s Spring, which still exhibits its original source of drinking water and Cemetery Hill, the keystone of the Union position at Gettysburg. These were important landmarks where major assaults took place towards the end of the battle.

Such a distinctive and monumental place, the Battlefields of Gettysburg was one of the most informative, yet moving locations that I have ever set foot on. It is quite hard to imagine what partaking in those three days was like; the anticipation, the combat, the aftermath. So much effort was expended. You can still definitely feel the spirit of the souls that fought and perished here.

So, did I see any ghosts?

After a long day driving the entire battlefield, my efforts ended with the arrival of a huge thunderstorm. The lightening strikes eerily sounded like cannon fire and as I glanced out of my hotel window at the darkened skies lighting up intermittently, I decided that if I wanted to see ghosts, it wasn’t going to be on the battlefield that night.

Maybe if I had had a partner to egg me on, I might have considered driving the battlefield under the cover of night.. Or maybe, I would have had the forethought to book a room at the Comfort Suites. These rooms overlooked the Evergreen Cemetery and was adjacent to the Soldier’s National Cemetery. Certainly, they must see their share of paranormal activity just outside the hotel! This leaves me to wonder if they book extra for the rooms with a “view”!

Next time, I definitely know where I am staying!

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Gettysburg National Military Park

https://www.nps.gov/gett/planyourvisit/visitorcenters.htm
Address: 1195 Baltimore Pike, Gettysburg, PA 17325
Hours: Visitor’s Center, April 1-November 30, 0900-1600. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday. December 1-March 31, pending pandemic conditions. Park Grounds and Roads, April 1-October 31, 0600-1000 daily, November 1-March 31, 0600-1900, daily.
Admission: There is no fee to enter the Visitor’s Center. Ticket with timed admission for the film A New Birth of Freedom, Cyclorama Painting and the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War, Adults (ages 13+), $15.00, Seniors (65+), $14.00, Active Duty U.S. Military Personnel, free, AAA Discount, $14.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $10.00, Children (ages 5 and under), free. For access to the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War only, Adults, (ages 13+), $9.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $7.00
Battlefield Tours: By car with licensed tour guide, 1-6 people per vehicle, $75.00, 7-15 people per vehicle, $100.00, 16+ people per vehicle, $150.00. By bus with licensed tour guide, Adults (age 13+), $35.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $21.00, Children (5 and under), free

The Beach and Bygone Times

The sun…

Oh, how I LOVE the sun!

Summer is my season and I love all the fun things that come with it, like going to the beach. Growing up in Louisiana, we were not far from the sunny, Emerald Coast of Florida with its clear, blue waters. Many vacations were spent traveling the short six hours and getting that Panama Jack tan all in a week’s time!

As I have grown older, however, lying on a beach for a solid week doesn’t cut it for me anymore, especially when I am visiting a new location. The travel bug, that resides in me, itches to go out and explore what makes that particular location…well, particular.

This year, since COVID 19 limited our travel options, we decided to make the drive to Florida and let our children experience what we once did in our teens and early twenties.

Having decided to stay in Fort Walton Beach, we were excited to see that the weather forecast was predicting fair skies for most of the week. After the extremely long drive from our home in Virginia, it was fun to wake early the next morning, make our way down to the white sandy beach and plant ourselves under the umbrella for the day!

As much as I loved being back to what felt almost like home, I was getting a bit antsy after only two days, especially when I awakened to darkened skies that morning. Taking the opportunity to run an errand or two, I also decided to head into downtown Fort Walton to explore the Heritage Park and Cultural Center. I had spotted this place on the way to our condominium and was quite curious. I didn’t remember ever seeing it when I was younger, but then, at that time of my life, museums were probably just not that interesting to me.

Taking a spot in the parking lot off of Miracle Strip Parkway, I made my way to the museum which has been in operation since 1962. The current building was opened in 1972 and houses information and exhibits which depict 12,000 years of Native American occupation. Making my way through the modest structure, I inspected the display cases which highlight over 1,000 artifacts of stone, bone, clay and shell, prehistoric ceramics, artifacts from European explorers, local pirates and early settlers and weaving and baskets examples.

My visit to the museum lasted less than an hour and I made my way out of the doors to climb the stairs to the the prehistoric temple mound, one of the highest points on the local landscape. The Indian Temple Mound was built as a ceremonial and political center between 800 and 1400AD by the native inhabitants of the area. Standing twelve feet tall and measuring two-hundred and twenty three feet across its base, it is thought to be one of the largest prehistoric earthworks on the Gulf Coast.

In 1964, the Indian Temple Mound was designated a National Historic Landmark and is listed on the National Historic Register. The original temple sat atop the mound and was used as the residence of the leader, a temple for religious ceremonies and a place to direct the activities of the village. I learned that it was, and still is, a sacred burial ground, leaving me to think that it may not be a place to walk near after dark if you are a believer in ghosts!

After the mound was abandoned, its history was affected by the arrival of Confederate Soldiers during the Civil War and by the excavations executed by the Smithsonian Institute seeking information about the original inhabitants.

Though I could only maintain a fair distance from the temple at the top of the mound, the area surrounding the base was open for inspection.

There are three other museums in the complex; Camp Walton Schoolhouse Museum, Garnier Post Office Museum, and the Civil War Exhibit Building. As I walked to the far end of the property, I learned that due to Covid 19 restrictions in the state, these other buildings were closed to visitors. I was, however, able to inspect the exteriors and take a peek into some of the windows.

The Camp Walton Schoolhouse Museum, of which the exterior was being restored when we visited, was one of the museums on the premises that I would have loved to visit and will certainly return to in the future. It is a historic two-room structure that covers the history of education in the county from 1911 to the 1930’s. Once located on Main Street, this is the third location that the schoolhouse has been set upon. Built of native timber, the school was opened in 1912 with one teacher and fifteen students and all levels of education were taught in the one room institution for fifteen years. In 1927, another room was added for high school students and their teacher. Nine years, later, the students were moved to the New Fort Walton School. The old schoolhouse was purchased and moved to eventually serve as apartments for families during World War II and for years after. The building was left to deteriorate during the 1970’s and scheduled for demolition when the Junior Service League stepped in. Persuading the owners to donate the building, it was preserved and continued to serve in an educational capacity. It was moved to its present location in 2006.

Another museum on the premises is the Garnier Post Office Museum. This museum exhibits items from the early days of the postal service of Walton county from 1918 to 1956.

Originally located on the beach of Garnier’s Bayou, the service was relocated at the junction of Mooney and Garnier Post Roads in 1918. Under the direction of the postmaster, Euphrates A. Mooney until his death in 1935, the operations of the office was then assumed by his wife Julia, who served for twenty-eight years. Just before Mrs. Mooney’s death in 1956, the small post office was closed and thirty years later, the building was moved onto First Street behind the Camp Walton Schoolhouse Museum. After its restoration, the Garnier Post Office Museum was moved with the schoolhouse in 2006.

The final museum is the one that houses Exhibits of the Civil War and was constructed in this location in 2010. There are various items in the gallery that depict life of the Civil War soldiers stationed here during the era, information about the state’s secession, slavery in Florida, prisoners of war and other information about important events that happened during wartime.

Walking back to my car, I realized that the steady drizzle that had plagued my visit had now stopped. As I put my car into drive and headed out to the Miracle Strip Parkway, a ray of sunshine illuminated the bridge to Okaloosa Island. A rainbow hovered over the island and I realized that the end was situated just near our condominium, where I was was returning to!

Even with my love for the sun, which you hope for on a beach vacation, there has to be days of clouds and rain. Years ago, when I was hoping for my deep, dark tan, I would have been frustrated to have a rainy day. Today, it was a blessing…a day to experience the culture of the area. The true pot of gold at the end of that rainbow!

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Indian Temple Mound Museum

https://www.fwb.org/parksrec/page/indian-temple-mound-museum
Address: 139 Miracle Strip Parkway SE, Fort Walton Beach, Florida 32548
Hours: 1000-1500, Tuesday-Saturday *Current hours due to Covid 19 reduction
Admission: $3.00 plus tax, ages 4 and older. *Current admission price due to Covid 19 reduced hours and admittance. Only the Indian Temple Mound and the Indian Temple Mound Museum are open at this time…7/28/2020 thru the publication of this article, 10/6/2020.

Foggy Days

Standing atop the highest point in Cuttyhunk, I looked down past the oyster ponds to the beaches of the West End at a stone tower perched alone on an arm of the island.

With a little investigation, I learned that this stone tower was the Cuttyhunk Monument, dedicated to the island’s founder, Bartholomew Gosnold.

In 1602, Gosnold sailed toward the Americas with the intent to set up a new colony and trading post. After brief stops in Maine and Provincetown, he then landed on Elizabeth’s Isle, known today as the island of Cuttyhunk.

Gosnold, a lawyer, traveled in high circles, practicing law with Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Walter Drake and enjoying regular performances by Shakespeare. It has also been speculated that he had ties to the Knights Templar and may have been trying to find their settlement on Narragansett Bay.

After a successfully harvesting a ton of sassafras, known for its healing properties, cedar timbers and furs, the settlement was disbanded and the group set off to return to England. Though Gosnold didn’t realize the colony that he set out to establish, he left his mark on the area. He is credited with naming Cape Cod because of the abundance of cod in its waters and Martha’s Vineyard for his deceased infant daughter and his wife’s grandmother, Martha Golding, as well as the wild grapes growing there. It is believed that he introduced the wheelbarrow to the New World and that Shakespeare’s play, The Tempest, may have been based on the documentation kept by Gosnold and his companions. Gosnold, continued his explorations and was part of the group responsible for the first English colony at Jamestown.

In 1902, construction of a 70 foot stone tower was initiated as a tribute to Bartholomew Gosnold on the spot where it was believed he set up the island’s first settlement. The monument was completed and dedicated on September 1, 1903.

When staying with my friend a couple of years ago, I read a small article about the the Cuttyhunk Monument. Remembering this article, I vowed that I was going to head out to the West End of the island to see this monument up close and personal.

One day, we set out for the long walk to the West End. Having spoken with a couple of other residents, we were warned to check the tide schedule as the water crosses the path between the two salt ponds, that leads to the beach. After we arrived, however, the fog rolled in quickly and we couldn’t see a thing.

A few more days passed and my time in Cuttyhunk was coming to a close. I was determined to make it out to get a better view of the monument. During the early morning, I woke up to a dense fog covering the island. Deciding that our adventure was just not going to happen, I closed my eyes and burrowed down deeper under the covers. Strangely enough, when I awoke later, the sun was shining and we decided to give it a try.

The day was hot and the dirt road a bit rocky and uneven. We continued our quest and as we came upon a hill, we were able to look through the clearing to a clear beach…and the monument! Wow! We were going to get a good view!

Trudging down the hill, we passed through the tall sea grass and tiptoed over the stones that separated the oyster ponds. We could see the monument to our left, but there was something else. The fog was rolling in!

Quickly, we made our way to the beach, walking in the direction of the monument and praying that this bout of fog was going to disperse. I have to say, I never gave up on that idea, but sadly, even though it thinned at times, it never really cleared. I guess the bright side was that I could still see the monument through the fog, yet, it wasn’t conducive to the beautiful photographs I had dreamed of. I must admit, however, this gloom, no matter how rarified, lent a creepy atmosphere, one that I could imagine the first settlers encountered when first stepping foot on this spot. I could almost imagine the native settlers standing on the point, waiting to greet the newcomers.

Sitting there on a large boulder, smelling the salty air, my imagination began to wander. What was it like landing here for the first time? Exciting, yet frightening, I am sure.

Wait, was that a ghost, standing on the point? The ghost of Bartholomew Gosnold?

All of this fog was really getting to me…it was just a fisherman hoping for some of the Atlantic Cod.

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Cuttyhunk Monument

Address: West End, Cuttyhunk, Massachusetts
Hours: 24 hours, daily and depending on the tides
Admission: free

The Little Church On the Hill

When you gotta pray, you gotta pray.

Most people of faith pray every day and most seek out the comfort of participating in a church service at least once a week, even when on vacation!

Just two doors down from my friend’s island home, is the Cuttyhunk Church. A small, simple structure, it always captured my attention when I walked by in the direction of the dock, the post office, the beach or where ever I was headed.

Never had I seen the door open and I wasn’t sure if visitors were welcomed outside of worship hours.

One day, after a trek to the west end of the island, my friend and I were returning home. Kathie, knowing my love of churches, glanced over at the now open door and suggested we take a look inside.

Built in 1881, the church is known as the United Methodist Church of Cuttyhunk. The church, however, is an interfaith church with Episcopal, Roman Catholic and inter-faith services led by worship leaders from different religious traditions. Only open during the busiest months of the year, July and August, when visits to the island are at its peak, the church bell calls the parishioners fifteen minutes before each Sunday service and can be heard throughout the island.

The church is also used by a variety of religious and community groups for various events, including weddings, baptisms, memorial services, AA and Al-Anon, the Cuttyhunk Historical Society, the Cruisers Community Chorus and other island events.

The interior was intimate and comforting with a pressed tin ceiling and walls and simple wooden benches spanning the width of the building. There are two beautiful shell mosaics designed by artist Manuel Sarmento, depicting the Madonna and St. Francis of Assisi in the front of the sanctuary. The simple crucifix hanging above the altar is made of brass and driftwood and was crafted by Wally Ketchum. What I loved the most, however, was the brightly colored stained glass panel situated above the doorway which embodies the fishing culture of the island.

As we wandered around the rear of the church, I noticed a small basket of clam shells with bright blue writing inside the curved portion of some of the shells. As I studied the framed printout, next to the basket, I learned that these shells are for recording prayer requests. At the end of the season, church volunteers set these shells afloat, encircled by island flowers with the belief that casting flowers into the nearby waters on departure assures one’s return and the answer to their petition. The next day, it was no surprise when Kathie plucked a bloom from one of her hibiscus bushes for me to toss into the waters from the ferry as I left the island.

Hopefully, this action will allow me to return to Cuttyhunk during the summer season and attend one of these church services!

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Cuttyhunk Methodist Church

http://www.cuttyhunkchurch.org/history.html
Address: 1 Broadway Cuttyhunk MA 02713
Services and Events: Thursdays (Summer Season), 1100, an hour of discussion and medition, 1930, Bible Study, 1830 Kids Movie Night. Sunday Services begin on the Sunday before the Fourth of July until Labor Day weekend. 0830, Episcopal Eucharist, 0930, Sunday School, 1030, Roman Catholic Mass, 1945, Hymn Sing, 2000, Evening Worship.
Contact information: For weddings and special gatherings, contact a church volunteer at 781-834-9552 or email puddingstone@live.com
Admission: free

All Washed Up

Everyone loves a good treasure hunt.

Especially on a beach…

The best part is that everyone’s idea of treasure is in the eye of the beholder.

Recently, with COVID19 restricting travel, I found myself with a lot of free time on my hands. Normally, in June, I am home only about a third of the month, with conventions, training and other events that take me away. This year, being unable to commute to work due to the loss of so many flights, I found myself wandering aimlessly around my home, looking for things to do, browsing my travel photos and just generally missing my usual lifestyle.

Sometimes, however, when one door is closed, another opens.

One of my best friends owns a house on the island of Cuttyhunk, just off of the coast of New Bedford, Massachusetts. Every year, she opens her house at the end of May for the summer and every year, the invitation is extended for me to visit.

Because of the ferry schedule, Cuttyhunk isn’t the easiest place to travel to and only once in recent years was I able to work it out. Two summers ago, a few of our friends and I, were able to go out for a quick weekend getaway. Though we enjoyed our visit, it was too early during the season (and still too cool) to see what summers on the island entail.

As I struggled with being home for such a great length of time, Kathie reached out and asked if I would be interested in keeping her company for a while on the island.

Mindful of the cool weather I had experienced beforehand, it was an exercise in balancing my summer wardrobe with pieces that could still keep me warm for those crazy days when the ocean winds decided otherwise.

After finally making my way north and an uneventful ferry ride, I learned that being there in mid June gives you a new perspective. Things certainly were different than on my first visit!

There was lots more activity. More people. More boats in the harbor.

And the best part, for a warm-weather loving person like myself, it was bathing suit and beach weather! Well…on most days!

There are quite a few beaches that surround the island and we made sure to take our daily walks on them all.

My favorite part was how much the beaches changed shape every day due to the tides, currents and waves. It was interesting to find that while some beaches were rocky one day, they were sandy the next and you never would know what might have washed in overnight.

Kathie was always on the lookout for beach glass. Always amazed at how she could spot the tiniest pieces, I instead focused my attention on driftwood and shells, with my ultimate goal of putting it together to form some sort of artpiece.

As we traversed the mile and half long by three quarters wide island, we poked the soft sand and seaweed, strolled along the waters edge and analyzed the tide pools along Channel, Church, West End and Barges Beaches. Crab traps lay half buried in the sand, and crabs and other crustaceans, both live and dead, small and large, could be spotted everywhere we walked. Barnacles and and long seaweed fingers clung to the side of the boulders and lengths of rope, of all circumferences and colors lay knotted around pieces of driftwood.

Rubber gloves, which may have fallen from fishing boats, could be spotted and they were usually displayed with great fanfare and sometimes obscene gestures. The fishermen, who mark their traps and fishing spots with buoys, were probably disappointed to find that many of their markers had washed ashore.

There were some interesting seashells and colorful granite rocks ground smooth from years of being subject to the pounding waves.

Looking out to sea, it was always interesting to see the many boats making their way to the island, some from the mainland and some from neighboring Martha’s Vineyard. As we walked along Barges Beach, I mistakenly took the remains of the fourteen barges that litter the shoreline as shipwrecks. In fact, these barges were buried here in 1949 to stabilize the land damaged by a 1944 Nor’easter. Though they are slowing eroding away themselves, they provide a natural habitat for some of the island’s creatures and a place to capture some unique beach shots.

As we walked near the sand dunes, we watched the sandpipers and seagulls soar around us, and the occasional rabbit hop our way.

Every day was a new day.

You never know what you were going to find!

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Cuttyhunk Island

The Fisherman’s Monument

The port city of New Bedford, Massachusetts, has been the home of countless fisherman for thousands of years.

While I love sailing in and out of this port when traveling to Cuttyhunk Island, I haven’t had much of an opportunity to see what makes up the city itself.

Known as the “The Whaling City” due to its importance in the whaling industry during the nineteenth century, there is a wonderful museum which focuses on the history of the trade. Though I would have loved to have visited this institution, the Covid restrictions had closed it down until further notice.

I wasn’t in town for long…only as long as it took to get groceries and board our boat which was to take us to Cuttyhunk. As I stood guard over our belongings at the New Bedord State Pier, my friends brought over load after load destined for our stay on the island. My attention wandered from the multitude of fishing boats lining the harbor to the occasional passerby. As I finally took a turn carrying one of the many bags from the car, I noticed a statue on the edge of the pier. Taking a quick walk over, I noted the plaque set into the concrete.

The statue, which honors the fishermen of the Port of New Bedford, was installed in this spot on June 30, 2016 and designed by sculptor Erik Durant. The installation depicts the scene of a fishing family consisting of a mother standing near her fisherman husband, who is down on one knee. He holds his daughter in his lap, accepting her hugs, and has his hand on the shoulder of his son, who holds a crew cap.

The monument is quite moving and it is evident that it is one that most families of the area can relate to. With a little research, I learned that the passing of the cap to the son signifies the continuation of the fishing tradition and the clinging daughter represents the regret of the separation that the family has when the father is away. The woman stands behind the father and the children, representing those who stay behind while the fisherman are at sea.

So, I didn’t get to take a quick tour of the whaling museum, however, I stumbled upon something more significant.

One that represents the fishermen of both the past and present.

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The Fisherman’s Monument

Address: 49 State Pier, New Bedford, Massachusetts, 02740
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: Free