Sometimes I feel like I don’t find churches, they find me!
I wasn’t looking to visit a church while in downtown Austin…I just happened to stumble upon one of the most historic ones in the state.
Built in the late 1800s, St. Mary’s Cathedral began as a small stone church named St. Patrick’s. As the parish continued to grow, the decision was made to build a new church. With both an Irish and German congregation, it was determined that a patron saint that reflected both heritages was needed, and St. Mary was chosen. In 1872, when Austin was made the state capital of Texas, the first cornerstone was laid, and the church completed two years later. St. Mary’s was deemed a cathedral in 1948.
The Gothic exterior seemed out of place amongst Austin’s towering skyscrapers, yet it was mesmerizing with its Gothic revival towers and spires which were added in 1907. Inside the tower, the cathedral’s bell is one of the largest in the state of Texas.
As I entered the cathedral, I was quite surprised to find a stunning interior, highlighted by spindled beams and a barrel-vaulted ceiling. Towering stained glassed windows lined each side of the church and tree-like columns were topped with foliage carved capitals. As I made my way toward the altar, I gazed upward at the bright blue dome painted with stars and flanked by two altars dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and St. Joseph and as I turned to face the rear of the church, I was mesmerized by the spectacular large rose window in the front façade.
In a city of known for its music, St. Mary’s is the site of a Christmas concert that highlights its Irish heritage. Traditional Irish and Scottish music is performed by acclaimed artists and the concert is a sellout each year.
So, when you visit Austin, not only can you experience music throughout the city, you can hear it at St. Mary’s and experience its history and architecture at the same time.
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Years ago, when I lived in Dallas, I always heard people say this, so when I visited Austin for the first time, I expected BIG things there as well.
Did I find that?
You bet!
Being downtown has its advantages. It’s a BIG city, but everything is close by. Or so I thought!
My initial plan was to take a walk along the river, enjoy the scenery and city views and then head over to one of Austin’s local attractions. It was a beautiful day and I thought it would be nice to be outdoors and get my daily dose of culture.
After a short time, I happened upon the statue of music legend Stevie Ray Vaughan. It was a normal sized statue, but the bronze effigy, erected in 1994, depicts the Blues guitarist in his customary poncho, straight brimmed hat and western boots, as he appeared to his adoring fans before his death…LARGER than life.
Seeking out more three-dimensional art, my next destination was to be the Umlauf Sculpture Garden and Museum. Thinking I could continue my trip along the river and be there in a short amount of time, I soon discovered that my short walk was actually a long one. BIG mistake! Silly me…I had plugged in the driving directions on my phone instead of the walking directions and it was a lot farther than I thought. Too invested to give up at this point, I plodded onward but I was glad I did.
The Umlauf Sculpture Garden and Museum, exhibits the works of Charles Umlauf and other visual and performing artists displayed in a peaceful setting filled with native Texas plants and trees. The site once contained small ponds which were used by soldiers to practice fly casting during the 1930s and 1940s. Becoming overgrown and neglected during later years, the property was then given to the City of Austin and transformed into a sculpture garden for the dozens of bronze and stone pieces gifted to the city in 1991, by 20th century American sculptor, Charles Umlauf.
As I made my way through the property, I encountered stunning sculptural works of art amid waterfalls, streams, pathways, flowers and natural beauty. With not just one theme on display, I encountered three-dimensional depictions of men, women, children, animals and religious subjects. In addition, there were a few pieces, including the winning project, from the design competition, Design Shine 2020…a BIG deal!
Deciding not to make the long walk back to the city, I called Uber in anticipation of arriving in time to see Austin’s BIGGEST spectacle during the spring and summer months. The nightly emergence of the bats at the Congress Avenue Bridge!
Never had I heard of the Austin bats! Only when I mentioned to a friend that I was going to be in the Music City did she tell me what an amazing experience it is and that I was going to be there during the prime viewing season.
But first, I wanted a quick look around the downtown area.
Approaching from Congress Avenue, I admired the grand State Capitol building with its BIG dome, viewable all the way from the Congress Street Bridge. It was getting late in the day and although I was aware that tours, both guided and self-guided were offered, I didn’t have the time, especially if I was going to see the bats. Glancing at my watch, I also realized that the last tours departing would be in a few minutes…definitely not enough time to make my way across the lawn and make the necessary arrangements. But as I entered the front gates, I discovered that sticking with the theme of the day…BIG statues…I could make the most of the rest of my afternoon.
The Texas Confederate Memorial Lawn has some amazing monuments designed and constructed by notable sculptors along its Great Walk and on the grassy lawns to the east and west. Here, you can find the African American History Memorial (West Lawn), Spanish American War Memorial, (West Lawn), Memorial to Volunteer Firefighters (Great Walk), the Monument to Confederate Soldiers (Great Walk), Memorial to the Texas Rangers (Great Walk), Heroes of the Alamo Monument (Great Walk), Artesian Fountain Exhibit (East Lawn) and the Tejano Monument (East Lawn). In fact, the collection is so BIG, that even though I glanced at one of the maps, I still missed so many more statues located at the rear of the Capitol building…Ten Commandments, Texas Schoolchildren, Pioneer Woman, Pearl Harbor, Statue of Liberty, World War I, World War II, Korean War Veterans, Vietnam Veterans, Disabled Texas Veterans and Texas Police Officers. I now definitely have motivation to return!
Texas African American History Memorial
Memorial to Volunteer Firefighters
Monument to Confederate Soldiers Memorial to the Texas Rangers Heroes of the Alamo Monument Artesian Fountain Exhibit Tejano Monument
Oh well, it was getting late, and I wanted to be sure not to miss the BIG event!
As I headed back down Congress Avenue, I marveled at the architecture as well as the graffiti artwork displayed on many of the buildings and in alleyways. My favorite, however, was the BIG guitar on Congress Avenue, designed by Craig Hein, giving homage to Austin’s musical roots.
Earlier, while walking along the river, I had observed signs for boat companies that offer trips out on the river so that riders get a prime view of the emergence at sunset. Other companies offered kayak trips for similar views but not being sure of my plans at the time, I had not made any reservations. Instead, I took my place along the rail on the pedestrian walkway, along the river on the north bank, with hundreds of other people and waited. To be honest, at that time, I wasn’t quite sure what I was waiting for.
Finally, I heard a gasp and saw my fellow observers pointing. There they were. Hundreds of Brazilian Free-Tailed bats were emerging from the 16-inch-deep crevices between concrete beams of the bridge, their nesting spot during the day, and taking flight in search of their evening meal.
Little did I know, at the time, how lucky I was to see this phenomenon as weather sometimes dictates their appearance with hot or warm, dry weather being the optimum conditions. 100,000 bats live under the bridge, rearing their young and then migrating to Mexico during the winter months.
Although I was able to see the long columns of bats in the darkening sky, it was obvious that there are many other prime viewing locations, in the river and on the opposite bank.
Weary, yet excited, I stumbled back in the direction of my hotel, hoping to find a BIG burrito and a BIG margarita…because you can’t go to Austin and expect anything less!
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Hours: Tuesday-Friday, 1000-1600, Saturday and Sunday, 1100-1600. Closed Monday. Closed Independence Day, Labor Day, Austin City Limits Music Festival, December 24 and 25, December 31 and January 1.
Admission: Members, free, Adults, $7.00, Seniors (60+), $5.00, Students, $3.00, Youth, 13-17 years, $1.00, Children under 12, Active Military and Veterans, free.
Hours: Texas Capitol and Extension: Monday-Friday, 0700-2000, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-2000. Easter Sunday, Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day. Grounds open daily, 0700-2000. Capitol Visitor’s Center, Monday-Friday, 0900-1700, Saturday and Sunday, 1200-1700. Easter Sunday, Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day. Monday-Friday, guided tours of the Capitol are available on a limited basis between 9:30 a.m. and 4 p.m. with the last tour departing at 3:30 p.m. On Saturday and Sunday, guided tours of the Capitol are available on a limited basis between 1230 and 1600 with the last tour departing at 1530. Self-guided tours of the Capitol and Grounds are allowed daily. Visitors are welcome to pick up free self-guided Capitol and Grounds tour brochures at the Capitol north entry or Capitol Information and Guide Service 1S.2.
Admission: Capitol Tours, both guided and self-guided, are free. All tours depart from inside the South Foyer outside the tour guides office in the Capitol, approximately every 30-45 minutes and last for 30 minutes.
Driving down Estero Parkway toward Naples, I came across a sign directing visitors to the Koreshan Historic Site. With no idea about what this place was, on a whim, I turned my car and decided to check it out.
What I found, blew my mind!
Anticipating a monument of some sorts, I instead found something within Koreshan State Park, very unexpected, very historical and just downright interesting.
In 1894, Dr. Cyrus R. Teed, founded the Koreshan Unity Settlement in Estero, a utopian community comprised of approximately two-hundred followers. Taking the name “Koresh”, Hebrew for Cyrus, meaning shepherd, he led his people to the area hoping to find a location which was accepting of their religious, scientific and cultural beliefs, the main one being that the entire universe existed within a giant, hollow sphere…the Earth.
At this location, the followers built a community consisting of a farm, nursery, botanical gardens, a printing facility, boat works, cement works, sawmill, bakery, store and a hostelry. Living a life based on communal living, they also lived celibate lives.
Only fourteen years after the establishment of the commune, Dr. Teed passed away at the age of 69, leaving some of the members to give up on the movement. After years of decline, there were only four remaining members in 1961, who then decided to deed the 305 acres of their land to the State of Florida as a park and memorial.
Something seemed familiar to me. The name Koresh. In 1993, a man by the name of David Koresh was the leader of a cult, the Branch Davidians, in Waco, Texas, which met a devastating ending when their compound was stormed by the FBI. As I made my way through the site, I wondered if this former settlement was related. While visiting one of the buildings, I discovered that others were wondering the same thing as the question was posed to a park ranger. What we learned was that although both were communes with unique beliefs, the only similarity was the name Koresh, one that was adopted by its leader for its meaning…shepherd.
The grounds of the Koreshan Historic Site were quite large and as I made my way along its pathways, I encountered eleven buildings, each depicting the life of the community members and other points of interest.
The Art Hall served as the cultural, religious and educational center of the community. The members produced plays and musicals and founded the Pioneer University here, which instructed students on construction, baking, beekeeping and music.
ThePlanetary Courtwas built in 1904 and served as the residence of the governing body of the Koreshan Unity, the Planetary Council. The group, composed of seven women, each handling different aspects of day-to-day living in the settlement, lived in their own room and in relative luxury.
TheFounders House, built in 1896, is the oldest structure on the site and was the home of Dr. Cyrus Teed. It was restored in 1992.
The New Store was built in 1920 to replace the Old Store located nearby. This store not only served the Koreshan community but other residents in the area and served as a general store, restaurant, post office and dormitory.
The Old Store was located on the banks of the Estero River and was in use until construction of the New Store and burned down in 1938.
Damkohler Cottage was built by Gustave Damkohler in 1882 with one room and was the first building to be constructed. This was the location where Dr. Teed stayed during his first visit to the site.
Bamboo Landing was constructed to receive visitors and freight that arrived fromthe river. The pier was also used as a stage for theatrical and orchestral performances.
The Victorian and Sunken Gardens were installed to showcase native and exotic plants that were imported by the Koreshans.
Hedwig Michel Gravesite is the final resting place of the last Koreshan to live at the settlement. Mrs. Michel arrived shortly after the death of Cyrus Teed and was responsible for a brief revival of the commune in the 1940s.
The Dining Hall. Although all that is left of the three-story building that served as a dining hall and girls’ dormitory, is the dining bell and three of the four foundation corner stones.
The Koreshan Bakery was built in 1903 and produced 500-600 loaves of bread per day. The bread was used by the commune and sold to the public in the general store.
Lillian “Vesta” Newcomb Cottage was the residence of long-time member, Lillian Newcomb and built in 1920. Originally serving as home and office of Koreshan barber, Lou Stratton, the building was moved to its current location in the1930s.
Conrad Schlender Cottage was built in 1903 and moved to the settlement in the 1930s serving as a dormitory for the male members. It eventually became the home of Conrad Schlender one of the last remaining members of the settlement.
The Small Machine Shop was built in 1905 and used to produce small detailed products.
The Koreshan Laundry handled the washing, drying and ironing of all laundry for the settlement. Built in 1903, the laundry was eventually demolished.
The Large Machine Shop was a production shop for a variety of products and materials needed by the settlement. Built in 1904, it was powered by a steam engine which also powered the adjacent laundry.
The Generator Building housed the electrical alternator, generator and power source for the community. It also provided power for the nearby communities until 1916 when Florida Power and Light assumed the task.
Of course, because of Covid restrictions, the buildings were not open, and tours were temporarily suspended. We were, however, able to peer into the windows of each and get a glimpse of what life was like for the commune members.
While most visitors to Fort Myers lean toward more popular attractions such as the Edison Ford Winter Estates and the miles of white sand beaches, this is one that shouldn’t be missed. An important part of southwest Florida’s history, it is an attraction that was truly enlightening and worth the spontaneous side trip!
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Admission: $5.00 per vehicle (two to eight people), $4.00, single-occupant vehicle, $2.00 pedestrians, bicyclists, extra passengers, passengers in vehicle with holder of Annual Individual Entrance Pass.
While visiting a friend who had recently relocated to Southwest Florida, she mentioned that she had not seen one alligator since she had been there.
Now, to some people, that might not be such a bad thing, but everyone knows that alligators outnumber people in many parts of the state, so it was quite surprising that she had not seen even one.
Maybe she wasn’t looking in the right places?
During a spring trip to Fort Myers, I was looking for something to occupy my morning. Something that would give me a bit of exercise and yet, give me something to write about. After a few internet searches and scouring my trusty Google Maps, I found that “something” just off of Six Mile Cypress Parkway.
The Six Mile Cypress Slough Preserve (pronounced sloo) is a wetland ecosystem comprised of over 3,500 acres with a boardwalk trail, Interpretive Center and amphitheater. This slough catches and slowly filters rainwater which then makes its way to Estero Bay and provides a habitat for fish, alligators and birds. This slice of nature, conveniently located only `15 minutes from downtown Fort Myers, offers visitors the opportunity to view wildlife from an elevated boardwalk snaking through the preserve.
Heading out early that morning, I secured a place to park in the already crowded lot, tightened the laces on my walking shoes and prepared for a long walk…
Parking lot sculpture
What I soon discovered was that the name is a little misleading. Named for the highway that it is located off of, Six Mile Cypress Parkway, I thought that it meant that I was going to find six miles of boardwalk. Silly me. After studying the map at the entrance, I learned that the boardwalk was only 1.2 miles long. Nevertheless, I was interested in what I might find, and the regulations sign informed me (see number 4) that jogging, and power walking are not permitted on the boardwalk. So much for my exercise regimen that day…
Since I am originally from the great state of Louisiana, I am accustomed to seeing moss-covered cypress trees, muddy water, wading birds and even the occasional alligator, so this was nothing new for me. However, one never knows what Mother Nature might throw out at them and there is something unique in every swamp setting. Definitely a lot of beauty would be here in the preserve, you just need to know where to look and what to look for.
The boardwalk was well maintained and actually quite busy for a weekday morning. As I made my way around, I discovered shelters offering information on the slough and its residents, photo blinds and seating areas throughout, making it easy to relax and enjoy (and capture) the scenery. Immediately, I noticed a group of white birds wading in the murky waters, hunting for their breakfast among the hundreds of cypress knees. Admiring the flora and fauna, I slowly made my way from pond to pond…Pop Ash, Otter, Wood Duck…hoping to catch a glimpse of some of their inhabitants, but it wasn’t until I reach the Gator Lakes that I actually saw some movement.
Eyes and ridged back barely visible amongst the lily pads, a small gator slowly made his way around the lake, possibly hoping for his own meal. A little further away, I noticed another as well as a few turtles sunning themselves on a log. Amusing as it was for me to listen to some of the other visitors gasping at this tiny four-foot gator, I had to remind myself that while I had grown up seeing monster-sized alligators while we fished in the backwaters of Louisiana, this may have been some visitor’s first time seeing one in the wild.
My time in the preserve was rather short, as 1.2 miles doesn’t require a lot of time to cover, even with photo stops and time for nature spotting, but it provided a nice and inexpensive outing. Lee County residents should be commended for petitioning to raise their own taxes back in 1976 to raise the funds to protect the slough as a preserve and provide it free of charge for visitors. Another similar sanctuary in nearby Naples, a little larger in size, is owned by the Audubon Society, but charges a heft entry fee.
Take my advice, enjoy what the residents worked hard to preserve and spend some time in Lee County. As I told my friend, “Go to the Slough Preserveand find your gator!Do the Slough (Sloo)!”
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In 1885, Thomas Edison headed to south Florida, seeking a respite from the harsh winters. His friend, Henry Ford followed 31 years later and moved in next door!
This past spring, I found myself in Fort Myers, doing the exact same thing…seeking a respite from the remnants of winter’s wrath. Between trips to the beach and time lounging in the warm sunshine, I found myself wanting to see what it was that lured Edison and his family, and later, Henry Ford, to the area. I headed downtown to the National Register Historic Site, Edison and Ford Winter Estates.
What I found at the most visited historic home site in America (besides long lines and a hefty admission fee) was twenty acres of historical buildings and gardens including the 1928 Edison Botanical Research Laboratory.
After purchasing my admission, I followed the masses across McGregor Boulevard and began my explorations.
Starting my self-guided tour on the northeast side of the property, I visited the Caretakers’ Cottage. The cottage, which now offers various exhibits throughout the year, was one of the oldest buildings in Fort Myers when Thomas Edison arrived. Designed in the “cracker” style, it was originally used by cattlemen as they drove their herds south. The house was renovated and expanded to include a kitchen, garage and chauffeur’s quarters, making it comfortable for the caretakers who lived on-site year-round. On this day, I found the structure to be devoid of its original furnishings, but filled with an interesting display of furniture and artwork created from the wood of trees destroyed by Hurricane Irma in 2017.
Thomas Edison’s Caretakers’ Cottage
Exhibit in the Caretakers’ Cottage
Continuing my walk through the beautifully landscaped property and the Moonlight Garden, I found Edison’s study which was built in 1928 and was the site of many experiments, including underwater telegraphy. The laboratory originally contained equipment for mechanical and chemical experiments and many elements from his various companies. Eventually, his laboratory was sold to Henry Ford and moved to his collection of historic buildings at Greenfield Village in Dearborn, Michigan.
Thomas Edison’s StudyThomas Edison’s Study and the Moonlight GardenMoonlight Garden
Just across the pathway from Edison’s study, I discovered the place where the family, no doubt, spent much of their time…the swimming pool. One of the first residential pools constructed in the area, the 50’ x 20’ pool was built in 1910. A few years later, a changing room, shower and Tea House were added. As I stood in the heat of the day, I must admit, it still looked pretty inviting!
Swimming Pool Complex
Following the path along the Caloosahatchee River, I reveled in the cool breeze and stopped to inspect the remnants of the pier which had been constructed to bring in building materials needed for the estate’s creation. The river walk path, lined with tall, regal palms and lush greenery led to the property belonging to Henry Ford. In 1914, the Ford family (Henry, Clara and their son Edsel) was invited by the Edison’s for a visit. Finding the climate and area (as well as the company) to be enjoyable, they purchased the home adjacent to the Edison estate. The Mangoes, as it was named by the Fords, was built in the Craftsman architectural style and featured two stories.
PierRiverwalk
On the southwestern side of the property, I first investigated the Ford Caretaker’s Cottage, originally a garage and residence. Today, it caters to visitors of the estate and offers locally made ice cream, books and gifts as well as a place to sit and cool off. Another garage, to the rear of the main house, provided a look at five of Ford’s beautifully crafted automobiles.
Henry Ford’s Caretakers’ Cottage
Ford’s Automobile Garage
Ford’s Citrus Grove
Finally, with a quick peek at Ford’s citrus grove, I made my way to Henry Ford’s main house. Built in 1911, the American bungalow was constructed with a wide covered porch from which I and other visitors could peer into the opened, plexi-glass covered doorways of the home. The cypress ceiling with decorative beams held court over the interior accoutrements, although I was to understand that most of the furnishings on display were not original, except for the grandmother clock in the living room.
Henry Ford’s Winter Estate Main House
Henry Ford’s Winter Estate Main House
Henry Ford’s Winter Estate Main HouseHenry Ford’s Winter Estate Main House
Strolling by Clara Ford’s Michigan Rose Garden, I then had an outstanding view of the front of the Edison home, fronted by a row of majestic palms. Before heading to the porch, however, I strolled down Orchid Lane and the Friendship Walk. The lane was developed as a natural path from the mango trees that formed a line down both properties. Many orchid plants were grown here and the stones that gave sustenance to the path were quite interesting with each being a gift to the Edisons from friends, family and local community members and leaders. Started in 1928, with a stone from Hamilton Holt, the president of Rollins College in Winter Park, Florida, the pathway continued to evolve with stones, fifty in all, in memory of family members, ideologies and causes.
Clara Ford’s Michigan Rose Garden
Friendship WalkClara Ford’s Michigan Rose Garden
Making my way back to the Edison main house, I was able to examine the family’s pride and joy…the Seminole Lodge.
Edison’s Guest House and Main House, Seminole Lodge
Divided into two sections, it was interesting to contemplate the thought process involved in its design. Originally, the main house included a kitchen and dining room, however in 1906, the Edison family purchased the guesthouse, originally owned by a business associate, to house their frequent guests, including Henry Ford, Harvey Firestone, President-elect Herbert Hoover, and many others. The guest house offered a sitting room, dining room, kitchen, guest bedrooms and quarters for serving staff. The original design of the main house included a kitchen and dining room, however, with the addition of the guest cottage to the main structure, the family remodeled the main house to offer a library, a study, Edison’s den and serve as family bedroom suites, using the kitchen and dining in the guest house.
Edison’s Guest House and Main House, Seminole LodgeEdison Guest HouseWalkway between Edison Guest House and Main House
Again, we were allowed to walk on the ample covered porches and peer through the plexi-glass blocked doorways, but it was wonderful to learn that nearly all of the furnishings in the Edison main house and guest house are original to the Edison family. There were many cozy seating areas on the porch and it was assured that many a fishing tale was told here when the men returned from their days at sea. On the wall above one of the seating areas, I spied a mounted tarpon. It was amusing to read about Charles Edison’s story as to how he gaffed a 110-pound tarpon (his first), while his dad, out in a larger boat upriver, excitedly brought back his first tarpon, only to discover he had been out-fished by his son!
Edison Main HouseEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and Gardens
I continued to enjoy the estate grounds until I decided to make my way back to the visitor center. Although I had assumed that my tour was over, in the attached building, I discovered the museum displaying a wide assortment of machinery, Edison inventions, fishing gear along with a depiction of the pier that originally stood behind the houses, statues of both Thomas Edison and his wife, Mary, furniture and many of Henry Ford’s automobiles. I studied as many as I could of the exhibits and artifacts before making my way through Thomas Edison’s Machine Shop.
Edison Ford Winter Estate MuseumEdison Ford Winter Estate MuseumEdison Ford Winter Estate MuseumEdison Ford Winter Estate Museum
I stood looking at the tables filled with beakers and lab equipment and it was truly awe-inspiring to think of the ideas conceived and executed here. If it not for Thomas Edison, we might possibly be using candles during the nighttime hours and if it were not for Henry Ford, everyday travel as we know it, would not exist.
Edison’s Machine Shop and Laboratory
As I got back into my car to head back to my hotel room, where I turned on my lights, I realized that today, I had stood where these great men stood, saw where they worked and enjoyed what they got to enjoy, even if just during the winter.
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Many years ago, while some work was being completed on our house, the electrician, noting my three very active boys, offered up a recommendation.
No, it’s not what you’re thinking…not chandeliers or track lighting…
He suggested that I take my boys fossil hunting!
Yes, fossil hunting!
Having a boy of his own, he was fully aware of the challenges of finding things to keep children occupied. Describing a place that he often took his son, he detailed all of the shark teeth and fossilized items they found on their visits. About an hour and a half away, located on the Potomac River in the northern neck of Virginia, he chronicled the property as the former home of Confederate Robert E. Lee, an historic estate open to visitors, although it was the area at the rear of the property, along the waterway that he wanted us to experience.
A few days later, I loaded the boys in the car and made that trip. We found dozens of ancient shark teeth, buried in the sandy banks, in that particular location and also in nearby Westmoreland State Park. Merely gazing at Lee’s former home as we drove by, I never gave the thought of visiting the stately manor much credence.
Years passed and the bags of shark teeth sat in a container on my kitchen countertop. As the restrictions from Covid lingered, I found myself away from work and desperately searching for things to occupy myself and fulfill my wanderlust desires. While cleaning the kitchen one day, I came upon one of those bags and thought about that sunny, fall day when we dug in the sand and carefully sifted it in hopes of discovering some ancient treasures. I remembered passing the Lee estate and decided to do an internet search to see if it was open to visitors. Certainly, I could stand to feel like a tourist again and maybe even do a little sand sifting!
On a mid-January day, my husband and I headed out to Montross, Virginia. Unseasonably warm and sunny, it was the perfect day to go sight-seeing. Upon our arrival, we ventured into the Visitor’s Center, paid our admission, collected our audio guide and wandered through the adjacent exhibit which gave an overview of the historical significance of the site as well its timeline.
Leaving the center, we then made our way down a long walkway toward the “Great House”.
Built by Thomas Lee in 1738, this plantation remained in the Lee family for four generations that helped to define our nation. While most people are aware that Thomas Jefferson penned the Declaration of Independence, many don’t know the names of the signers, aside from Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, John Adams and John Hancock. In fact, Richard Henry Lee and Francis Lightfoot Lee, both born at Stratford Hall, were two of fifty-six endorsers during 1776.
Years later, the birth of Robert Edward Lee, in 1807, was documented in the plantation journals. This young man called Stratford Hall his home until leaving to serve as General-in-Chief of the Confederate States Army during the American Civil War from 1861 until 1865.
Designated as a National Historic Landmark in 1960, the property is under the care of the National Park Service and the United States Department of the Interior. The grounds are impeccably kept and the home is proportionately constructed and in exemplary condition.
We first made our way through both levels of the Great House, examining the period furniture, original colonial pine floors, brick masonry and oil paintings. The home is elegantly furnished and exhibits the wealth of the Lee family during the time.
Heading outside, we analyzed the home’s meritorious brick exterior, acknowledging the skillful craftsmanship, before taking to task the other structures located on the 2,000 acre property…the Overseer’s work place, the Payne cabin (home of the enslaved Payne family and the grave marker of “Uncle Wes” William Westley Payne), the spring house, the gardens, the northeast out-building, the gardener’s cottage, the burial vault, the smokehouse, the kitchen, the slave quarters, the southwest out-building and the coach house and stables. The property is vast, including marked nature trails, so allow a few hours see everything.
Great House Exterior
The Overseer’s Cabin
Overseer’s Cabin
Payne Cabin
Payne Cabin
The Grave of “Uncle Wes” William Westley Payne
The Spring House
The Spring House
Stratford Hall Gardens
Northwest Outbuilding
The Gardener’s Cottage
The Gardener’s Cottage
Burial Vault
Burial Vault
Kitchen and Smokehouse
Craftsmen’s Work and Living Quarters
Slave Quarters
Slave Quarters
Coach House and Stables
Coach House and Stables
Nature Trails
Since we still had a bit of time remaining before the winter sun slide beyond the horizon, we headed down to the beach area. Before we ditched our shoes for our coastal explorations, we investigated the grist mill with its paddle wheel and the lake.
Grist Mill
Grist Mill
Finally, it was time to see if I would have any luck with our specimen search. We had the beach to ourselves and we thoroughly combed the area and dug through the sand as much as my cold fingers could stand.
Potomac River Beach
Nothing.
Oh well, maybe I just don’t have the patience that I used to.
Leaving empty-handed, we made a quick stop at the slave cemetery. Sadly, we did not even have some shells to leave on the marker in remembrance of those who served the Lee family faithfully.
Slave Cemetery
Although it was the perfect day for sightseeing, obviously it wasn’t the perfect day for fossil hunting.
Address: 483 Great House Rd, Stratford, Virginia 22558-0001
Hours: 1000-1700, Wednesday through Sunday. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Admission: Adults (ages 14+), $12.00, Children (ages 6-13), $5.00, Children (under 5), free. Grounds Pass (access to the hiking trails, public beach area, gardens, public grounds, Visitor Center, and Gift Shop only), Adults, $8.00, Children, $5.00.
Many worldwide cities have their own style of architecture that sets them apart. You know what I mean…when you look at a photo, you can say “I recognize that place”.
While St. Augustine doesn’t entirely have one distinct look per se, although many of Henry Flagler’s creations appear similar, it definitely has a some of the oldest buildings and most historic buildings in the continental United States. It has a classic and picturesque look with many styles from different eras…Spanish Colonial, Spanish Renaissance Revival, Moorish, Neoclassical, Queen Anne, Second Renaissance Revival, Vernacular. It’s residences, churches and businesses are not overshadowed by skyscrapers and the city has enforced building codes to preserve the periods of architecture throughout the area.
Many people opt to take a trolley tour through the city, jumping off at many of the attractions and landmarks. This covers many historical edifices, however, when traveling by foot, you will encounter so much more some hidden away on mossy tree-lined streets. As I hoofed it through the city, I was amazed at the number of historical markers describing past and present buildings as well as other important events. I love history and this further reinforced what an amazing and rich place St. Augustine is!
Here’s a few to look out for:
The Governor’s House. Located on the Plaza de la Constitution, this building dates back to 1598 and has been home to several government offices. Today it operates as a museum and houses exhibits in the main lobby which highlights the city’s history.
Spanish Dragoon Barracks. The two-story coquina shingled roof structure was erected on the site of another current building. The building housed the barracks for the Spanish Dragoon’s but was razed in 1822. Today a memorial plaque stands on the site.
Pena-Peck House. The Pena-Peck House now operates as a Historic Museum. Built in 1750, the house is a fabulous example of the meshing of three distinct styles, First Spanish, Territorial and British, thereby making it larger than many of its neighbors. The structure also operates as The Woman’s Exchange carrying unique works of art, fashion and home decor and is a much sought-after wedding venue.
Dr. Peck House. Dating back to 1750, this house served as the home of the Royal Treasurer and later, the Governor.
Tovar House and Gonzalez-Alvarez House. Together, these two houses comprise the Oldest House Museum Complex with the Tovar House taking the prize for the city’s Oldest House. Located on St. Francis Street, these structures are on the Old Town Trolley tour (Stop #16) and open to the public. Dating back to the 1700s, these two homes have a rich history and have been occupied by many over the years…the living and some say the “dead”. Reports of a shadowy male figure, strange lights and moving objects attract those not only interested in the buildings’ historical status!
St. Francis Barracks. Once part of a Franciscan Chapel, this building housed the British Military from 1763-1783, the Spanish from 1783-1821 and then the United States. Today, the barracks and military reservation house the Headquarters of the Military Department of the State of Florida and the Headquarters of the National Guard.
St. Augustine Visitor Information Center. While the building itself is a new construction, I beg you to stop by and check out the Old Spanish Trail Zero Milestone on the center’s grounds as well as Fuente de Los Canos de San Francisco. The Old Spanish Trail was opened in 1929 and was constructed to provide a continuous highway route from Florida to California and its name pays homage Spanish heritage and missions of the southwest and the south. Nearby, the set of masks that decorate the fountain was gifted to St. Augustine by the City of Aviles, the birthplace of Pedro Melendez, St. Augustine’s founder. They are reproductions of the six faces that serve as waterspouts for the municipal fountain in the San Francisco neighborhood of Aviles. Also, out the lovely clock near the Visitor’s Center parking garage.
Water Wheel at Mill Top Tavern. The working water wheel is a 19th century grist mill driven by a well at the bottom of the wheel pumped to drive the wheel. Quite the unexpected piece of equipment as you venture into this little plaza…worth a look-see or an outdoor meal nearby to watch it work its magic.
The Salcedo House. On this site stands the former home of Jorge Biassou, the nation’s first black general in 1796. Biassou was one of the original leaders of the slave uprising in Haiti and for his service to the Spanish against the French, he became a Spanish General and Florida’s second highest paid official.
Ximenez- Fatio House. Built in 1798 for use as a general store, tavern and family home. Later in operated as a boarding house to provide lodging for fortis earliest tourists. Today the house operates as a lifestyle museum highlighting the history and heritage of Florida.
There are so many more buildings to discover in St. Augustine, some of which I’ve previously covered in my blog. Put on your sneakers and get ready to do a lot of walking and a lot of exploring!
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Governor’s House
Address: 48 King Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
Hours: Monday thru Saturday, 1000-1700, Sunday, 1300-1700. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
Admission: General Admission, free. Donations accepted.
Spanish Dragoon Barracks
Address: Cordova Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
Hours: none, marker can be read from sidewalk.
Admission: Not open to the public
Pena-Peck House
Address: 143 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
Hours: Friday and Saturday, 1100-1600
Admission: free, donations accepted
Dr. Peck House
Address: St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
Hours: none, marker can be read from sidewalk.
Admission: Not open to the public
Tovar House
Address: 14 and 22 St. Francis Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
Hours: 1000-1700, daily. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
Admission: Adults, $8.00, Seniors (55+), $7.00, Students (valid id), $4.00, Children (ages 0-6), free, Military (valid id), $7.00
Old Spanish Trail Zero Milestone, Fuente de Los Canos de San Francisco, St. Augustine Visitor Center
Address: 10 S. Castillo Drive, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
Hours: Visitor Center, 0830-1730, daily. Grounds, 24 hours, daily.
Admission: free
Water Wheel at Mill Top Tavern
Address: 19 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Salcedo House
Address: 42 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
Hours: none, marker can be read from sidewalk.
Admission: Not open to the public
Ximenez- Fatio House
Address: 20 Aviles Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
Hours: Monday thru Saturday, 1000-1700
Admission: By tour, Adults, $10.00, Students/Seniors/Active Military/First Responders/Educators, $8.00, Saint John’s County Residents, $5.00
For a few days, while visiting St. Augustine, I had spied the St. Augustine Lighthouse across the waters of the Matanzas Bay.
Its red, black and white eye-catching color-scheme was hard to miss and I continually vowed that I would make my way over the Bridge of Lions to Anastasia Island for a closer look.
Finally, I patiently waited for a boat to pass through the raised bridge, glancing at the clock to make sure I had enough time to see the lighthouse, its grounds and the museum. Arriving later in the afternoon, I paid my admission in the gift shop and headed out back to the densely grown landscape and followed the path toward the towering beacon.
Built between 1871 and 1874, the lighthouse not only has a colorful body, but a colorful past. Steering numerous vessels to safety along Florida’s coastal waters, the current structure was preceded by another, which eventually fell into ruin. The new tower was put into service with a new first order Fresnel lens and lit for the first time in October 1874 by its first keeper, William Russell. Its lens, handblown in Paris, stood nine feet tall.
For twenty years, the lighthouse was kept by William A. Harn, a Union war hero, who had fought during the Battle of Gettysburg. He and his wife lived in a Victorian style keeper’s house, along with their six daughters. During 1885, the lamp was converted to kerosene and felt the Charleston earthquake in 1886, with its tower swaying violently. It served as a lookout post during World War II and was eventually modernized when plumbing was installed in 1907 and electricity in 1925. Only ten years later, it was the last lighthouse in Florida to be electrified and was fully automated in 1955. Today, the light continues to burn as a private aid for navigation.
Entering the structure and admiring the initial exhibits, I then made my way up the 219 steps to the top of the lighthouse, examining the information on each level and appreciating the effort someone had made to remind me of how many more steps my weary feet had to climb.
Finally, I made it!
At one hundred and sixty-five feet above sea level, I gazed out at the spectacular views of the city of St. Augustine, Anastasia Island and the ocean. It was breezy but a beautiful, clear day and I was amazed with how far down the coast I could see.
Eventually, I made my way down the winding staircase and headed out to see what other exhibits were offered by the Lighthouse and Maritime Museum.
My next stop was at the Keepers’ House. In this building, I learned about life at the Light Station and studied the furnishing and remnants of the families that once resided there. Out front, I admired the memorial to the Crew of the United States Coast Guard E-2C Radar Surveillance Aircraft Number 3501. Other buildings on the premises included a 1941 U.S. Coast Guard barracks and a 1936 garage that was home to a jeep repair facility during World War II. The site is also a National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration weather station. Another stop demonstrated the art of boat making and you can see the First Order Fresnel lens. The best part of the grounds, however, was that you could incorporate sightseeing with a bit of exercise with numerous trails leading through the dense overgrowth that also offered different views of the lighthouse.
Behind the Scenes tours are offered every day, from 1100 to 1500, on the hour, and offer visitors insight into the role that the Light Station has played in St. Augustine’s history and provides a glimpse into the preservation and research work that goes on at the Museum. Thousands of volunteer hours provide what is needed to keep this historic structure up and running and available to visitors and locals alike.
What I thought most fascinating, however, is that the location of the lighthouse has been subject of many ghost stories and supernatural legends. Visitors and volunteers have experienced a great deal of paranormal activity throughout the site and it has attracted the attention of televisions’ Ghost Hunters, My Ghost Story and Most Terrifying Places in America which have featured the lighthouse on their series. For those interested in this type of phenomena, the St. Augustine Lighthouse & Maritime Museum offers tickets for a number of “Dark of the Moon” ghost tours and ghost-themed private events to the public.
As much as I loved my visit in the light of day, I think that the lighthouse during the hours of night might be an extremely interesting and possibly terrifying thing to do!
Who knows who you might meet? The ghosts of past keepers, WWII soldiers or even Floridian explorers? No telling, but in this case, I think you would you have to refer to this Lighthouse as a Nighthouse!
While visitor’s may be aware of the connection of two of King Streets most famous landmarks, Flagler College and The Lightner Museum, many may not know that these came to fruition because of the Villa Zorayda.
Villa Zorayda, an architectural masterpiece, was built by Franklin Smith in 1883, in the Moorish style of the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Spain. When Henry Flagler, millionaire American industrialist, founder of Standard Oil and the Florida East Coast Railway, arrived in St. Augustine in 1883 with his new wife, they found the hotel facilities and transportation systems to be inadequate. Flagler, intrigued by the stunning Villa Zorayda, offered to buy it for his honeymoon but was turned down by the owner, Franklin W. Smith. Flagler then went on to build his own architectural masterpieces on King Street.
Villa Zorayda, also known as Zorayda Castle, was Smith’s winter home and housed his extensive art and antique collection. Over the years, it was utilized as a restaurant, a nightclub, a gambling casino and a hotel. After renovations in 2003, it was reopened to the public in 2008 as a museum.
My first encounter with the architectural marvel was while riding the Old Town Trolley. As we drove through the parking lot to drop off some riders, I was intrigued with the beautiful style, but it wasn’t until the next day when I had a bit of time on my hands to hot foot it over for a quick look-see.
Of course, as I entered, I was met with my least favorite phrase, “Photography Not Permitted”. Argh! Still, I paid my admission, put on my audio guide headphones and started my tour in the small study.
Whoa! This place was amazing! Had I stepped into a middle eastern palace? It sure looked like it!
The trim, the gold detailing, the gorgeous hand-painted tiles! And this was just in the first room, the Prayer Room. Each of the rooms were similarly styled and filled with Franklin Smith’s art and antique collection, now owned by Abraham Mussallem, an authority on oriental rugs and Egyptian artifacts who also purchased the villa in 1913.
The highlight of the villa is the central two-story center court which can be gazed upon from both levels. Rooms surrounding this courtyard are similarly decorated and are bedecked with alabaster and plaster reliefs, replicas of the walls of the Alhambra Palace. “There is no conqueror but God” is reproduced in the tracery of the Alhambra and is inscribed in Arabic script above the front entrance. Filling the space are hand painted wood panels, intricately designed doorways and geometrically shaped windows and colorful stained glass. There are Middle Eastern brass lamps, Oriental rugs, sculptures, carved furniture and Egyptian artifacts throughout. The most curious piece of the collection, however, is the Sacred Cat Rug made from the hairs of ancient cats that roamed the Nile River and is over 2400 years old.
The highlight of the villa is the central two-story center court which can be gazed upon from both levels. Rooms surrounding this courtyard are similarly decorated and are bedecked with alabaster and plaster reliefs, replicas of the walls of the Alhambra Palace. “There is no conqueror but God” is reproduced in the tracery of the Alhambra and is inscribed in Arabic script above the front entrance. Filling the space are hand painted wood panels, intricately designed doorways and geometrically shaped windows and colorful stained glass. There are Middle Eastern brass lamps, Oriental rugs, sculptures, carved furniture and Egyptian artifacts throughout. The most curious piece of the collection, however, is the Sacred Cat Rug made from the hairs of ancient cats that roamed the Nile River and is over 2400 years old.
Sacred Cat Rug
It was awe-inspiring to wander from room to room studying each piece of the collection, including items from its gaming and club days. My favorite room, however, was on the second floor…the Harem Room. More of a small porch, it had a small star-shaped window to peek into the room and decorated with blue and white tiles and ornamentation. An exquisite wooden swing hung in the entry area to this room and I was tempted to take a quick ride…
Harem Room
I did not, of course, but you know what I did do?
I snuck a few pictures…okay more than a few…since the woman manning the front desk wasn’t too worried about interacting with the customers…even when paying…much less watching to see if we were disobeying instructions!
In all, my visit lasted about forty-five minutes, but was worth the exploration of this unique property and its furnishings. If you are visiting St. Augustine and making your way down King Street to witness the unique stunning structures that are Flagler College and the Lightner Museum, take a bit of time to stop in and check out the Castle of King Street, Villa Zorayda.
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Of all the things to love about St. Augustine, there is one that stands out.
Castillo de San Marcos.
I love visiting forts and have been to many throughout the world. What stands out to me about this particular one, however, is that even though it is poised on American soil, as you gaze upon its coquina walls, you can’t help but feel like you’ve been transported to the Caribbean.
Sitting on the shores of Matanzas Bay, the Castillo San Marcos National Monument was built over 340 years ago by the Spanish to protect the sea routes and the city. Builders were brought from Havana and workers retrieved the soft coquina stone from Anastasia island to construct the 26 foot high star-shaped walls over the course of twenty-three years.
Over time, the Castillo de San Marcos underwent many changes including the raising of its walls an additional six feet and the transference of ownership multiple times. While the Spanish instituted its construction, occupation was later transferred by treaty to the British and renamed St. Marks. The Spanish regained the fort in 1784 and changed the name back to its original moniker. In 1821, Spain sold the property to the United States, which renamed it Fort Marion (after Francis Marion) and appropriated it for use by the United States Army until 1899. In 1861, Florida, which had joined the Confederate States of America, gave the fort to the Confederates however, during the following year, the fort was taken by the Union. During this time, storerooms were converted to prison cells and Native Americans (among them Chief Osceola) were held captive in the fort as well as prisoners during the Spanish-American War in 1898. A year later, the fort was discontinued as a military base and named a national monument in 1900 with its original name being restored in 1942.
Over its illustrious history, Castillo de San Marcos has flown six different flags and today remains the oldest and largest masonry fortress within the continental United States. Definitely something to see outside of the Caribbean!
As I made my way to the ticket booth, I anxiously eyed the extensive line snaking out from the entrance. Only one hundred people were being allowed to visit the fort at one time, however, the line moved much quicker than I anticipated and I was walking past the drawbridge and into the fort’s courtyard before I knew it.
Much like other forts I have visited prior, there were two levels to explore…the lower level which housed many exhibits, prison cells and living and working quarters and the upper level which provided expansive views of the historic city, the bay and nearby Anastasia Island, whose natural elements helped to birth the structure. While I enjoyed wandering from from room to room on the lower level, it is always the upper levels that are most fascinating with it guard towers and ornately engraved cannons.
A popular tourist attraction in St. Augustine, the fort is run by the National Park Service and is well preserved and maintained. After your tour of this historical structure, spend some time walking along the waterfront area and enjoy the expanse of ground that fronts the fort. Take a deep breath, close your eyes and imagine…with its water views and palms trees, it certainly does feel as though you are in the presence of a great Caribbean citadel.
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Address: 1 S Castillo Dr, Saint Augustine Beach, FL 32084-3252
Hours: 0900-1730 (last admission 1700), daily. Park grounds closed from midnight until 0530. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas Day.
Admission: Adults (16 years and over), $15.00 (good for 7 consecutive days). Children (15 years and younger), free if accompanied by adult. Maximum capacity of 100 visitors in the fort at any time.
Parking: The city of St. Augustine maintains a parking lot in front of the Castillo. Parking is $2.50 per hour and paid at automated stations which accept currency, credit and debit. The city’s parking garage is located a block away and provides additional shaded parking.
