Category: Religious Institutions

The Cloister and the Deer

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

A couple of years ago, I visited the Fraumünster, one of Zurich’s four main churches. One of the city’s highlights, it boasts windows by Marc Chagall and a rose window by Augusto Giacometti. It is a historic site visited by thousands each year.

As much as I enjoyed my visit to the historic church, however, what is just next door to the Fraumünster is what is really the what visitors should come for!

Fraumünster

Recently, a friend and I were walking past the Fraumünster, admiring its blue clock tower spire and carvings on the outer walls. Just past the church, we came to a gate and what appeared to be a cloister. Venturing inside, we discovered, that this was indeed the cloister from the ancient abbey.

The cloister was built at the end of the 12th century and moved to the present location in the 19th century. The Fraumünster church, next door, was built over the remains of the monastery around 1250.

As compelling as is a visit to the Fraumünster, it is the peaceful cloister’s origins that I found fascinating. In 853, King Ludwig of Germany’s two daughters, Bertha and Hildegard, lived in Baldern castle, high above the city. The extremely pious sisters would make their way down through the dark forest to the Grossmünster to spend time in prayer each morning and worship before the relics of Saints Felix, Regula and Exuperantius. Legend has it, however, that one day, the sisters encountered a stag with burning antlers in the darkened forest that led them down to the River Limmat across from the Grossmünster. After the encounter repeated itself many times, the sisters finally understood that it was a sign from God urging them to oversee the construction of a religious sanctuary for women at the edge of the river. King Ludwig was persuaded by his daughters to begin the fabrication and eventually appointed his daughters as the first abbesses.

This is the Legend of the Deer With the Lighted Horns and the fresco depicting this story can be spotted in the cloister along with many other amazing scenes painted by Swiss artist Paul Bodmer between 1924 and 1934.

Only a few other tourists walked through the cloister with its small central garden, flanked by two corridors, covered by beautiful Gothic arches. Other murals depicted the figures of Felix and Regula the patron saints of Zurich who are buried in the crypt beneath the Fraumünster and distinctive facial carvings can be spotted throughout the space on walls and atop columns.

A simple memorial was installed in the cloister on March 14, 2004 to honor Katharina von Zimmern, the last abbess of the Fraumünster Abbey. Created by sculptor Anna-Maria Bauer, the memorial consists of thirty-seven copper blocks layered into a compact square referring to the shape of an altar. There is also an engraved banner on the floor which states Die Stadt vor Unruhe und Umgemach bewahren und tun, was Zürich lieb und dienlich ist (to save the city from restlessness and surroundings and to do what is lovely and useful) referring to Von Zimmern’s handing over the convent to the reformation, thus stopping further bloodshed.

It was the legend of the deer, however, that kept bringing me back to inspect the murals more closely. What was it about Zurich and deer? There is another legend, involving King Ludwig’s grandfather, Emperor Charlemagne that tells how a stag led him to the graves of Saints Felix and Regula, but it was thinking back to a visit to Uetliberg, some time ago and remembering the large sculptural deer with lighted antlers lining the pathways. I had loved these strange tiled beacons, which represent what is an important part of Zurich’s history.

Whatever brings you to the Fraumünster’s cloister…be it the murals, the history, the tranquility or even the Legend of the Deer…know that you’ve stumbled across something extremely extraordinary!

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Fraumünster Cloister

  • https://www.fraumuenster.ch/
  • Address: Münsterhof 2, 8001 Zürich, Switzerland
  • Hours: Monday-Friday, 0730-1830, Saturday, 0800-1800
  • Admission: free

Read more about the Fraumünster in my blog post, “The Münsters” on www.snappingtheglobe.com. https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=2404


The Largest Clock Tower

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

After visiting Zurich’s Predigerkirche, I was on a quest to make it to the last of the city’s four major churches that I had not visited before the end of the day.

The Church of St. Peter’s.

Problem was, there were so many photos to take in the beautiful Neumarkt area that I kept getting sidetracked!

Finally, crossing the river, it was easy to find the oldest parish church in Zurich. Standing on the former site of an ancient Roman temple to the god Jupiter, the church’s clock tower is said to be the largest in Europe and can be spied from most locations within the city. With a clock face measuring almost nine meters in diameter, it is an amazing site to behold!

Arriving at the church, we discovered, as did other tourists arriving at the same time, that the entrance was opposite of where we thought.

Making our way down the stairs, through the alley and back up another set of stairs, we finally found a courtyard with some interesting art pieces. Not even convinced that this was the entrance, we made our way inside to discover what makes this church interesting.

In 1345, the church was acquired by the city’s first mayor, Rudof Brun. His grave and monument can be seen by the outer tower wall. The first pastor, Leo Jud, served from 1523 until 1542 and contributed to the first translation of the Bible in Zurich. The church’s second pastor, J.C. Lavater, served from 1778 until 1801 and was so popular that people reserved seats for Sunday mass. His gravestone is in the courtyard, to the left of the entrance, on the church wall.

As I walked into the church, I noticed immediately the similarities between St. Peter’s and the Predigerkirche. The first church in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship, after the Reformation during the eighth century, St. Peter’s exhibits the same elegant, simplicity although its tower and choir date back from a Romanesque church built in 1230.

During the Middle Ages, the short spire windows of the tower was the home of the town watchman, whose duty was to look out of the windows every fifteen minutes for signs of fire. Should a fire be spotted, he would sound an alarm and hang a flag out of the window facing the fire. Since Zurich, unlike so many other cities, never endured a major fire, the system worked well.

As I walked through the interior of the church, I took note of the three-aisled Baroque nave and the Romanesque choir that still contains some faded medieval murals. Above the pulpit, the name of God in Hebrew can be spotted, reflecting the Reformation emphasis on the original biblical languages. Another important feature of the church is the original 9th century foundation walls which can still be seen beneath the chancel.

In addition, St. Peter’s contains a baptismal font, dating back to 1598 and richly carved choir chairs from the 15th century. These chairs were transported to the church from the suppressed convents of the city. Make sure to take a look upward at the beautiful crystal chandeliers and the wood paneled gallery.

Even though, I initially thought that St. Peter’s was so very like the Predigerkirche, I learned from my visit that this church had a much richer history and much more to discover in its interior.

If you are taking a stroll through the streets of Zurich, take a look upward, find the largest clock tower and head that way! Its worth the visit!

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St. Peter’s Church

  • https://www.st-peter-zh.ch/home.html
  • Address: St. Peterhofstatt 2, 8001 Zürich, Switzerland
  • Hours: Monday-Friday, 800-1800, Saturday, 1000-1600, Sunday, 1100-1700
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Tram, stop Paradeplatz

The Preacher’s Church

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

If you are a church lover (like me!) and visiting Zurich, there are four churches that are must-sees!

The Grossmunster, the Fraumunster, the Church of St. Peter and the Predigerkirche.

Cloudy, drizzly day aren’t optimal for day trips outside of the city so I decided, instead, to head toward the train station and into the old town area of Zurich to seek out the two churches I had never visited on previous trips.

The Predigerkirche, the Preacher’s Church, was first built in 1231 AD as a Romanesque church, the largest in the city and converted in the first half of the 14th century when the choir was rebuilt and the high bell tower was added. Originally part of a monastery of the Dominican Order, the church appears to have been modeled after the Basilica of San Domenico in Bologna which was the most important church of the Dominicans and where their founder, Saint Dominic was buried in 1221. The church is now used as the “open town church” or a place of encounter with its side aisles containing a library, easy chairs and a dining area for free Sunday lunches. It also employs a Catholic priest and celebrates joint masses with Muslims and Buddhists and is often the site of evening concerts.

With my excitement growing as I turned off of Limmatquai street and made my way up the hill, I could see the beautiful bell tower of the church which is regarded as the highest Gothic edifice in Zurich. As I arrived at the church on Zahringerplatz, however, I was a bit disappointed with the church’s plain facade. Though the high window-lined walls of the side and rear of the church were a bit more interesting, I simply could not believe that this was was the entrance, especially with its magnificent bell tower!

Entering the church, I was also a bit underwhelmed. Appearing to be elegant and modern at first glance, I began to walk around the space, hoping for more detail. The high arched ceiling caught my attention and lent to the lofty atmosphere along with the wide, square columns which divided the space. Although the ceiling was decorated with light gold rosettes and molding, it was quite disappointing combined with the plain altar. Beautiful in its own right…I guess I am used to the extravagantly decorated churches of Italy!

As I turned to the rear of the church, the magnificent organ in the gallery caught my eye. Now, this piece definitely gives the church a bit of extravagance. I had noticed that there were other smaller organs scattered throughout the church but this pipe organ, built by Paul Hintermann and Jakob Schmidt, is the showstopper. It was installed in 1970, after the original (1503) was broken during the Reformation struggle and the replacement (1879), was deemed unworthy.

Another piece that caught my eye along the outer perimeter of the church was the grave plate of Heinricus de Ruchentstein, a ministerial member of the House of Rappersil and dates back to 1270. The grave plate is the oldest surviving piece of this kind and the oldest surviving grave plate in Switzerland. It is notable due to its arrangement of the inscription, the absence of the date and a cross.

Exiting the church, I made my way out into the streets of the Neumarkt quarter. Though I was a bit disappointed with my time at the Predigerkirche, it was still an interesting visit and I was glad that I had made my way into this part of the city. Certainly, I couldn’t skip out on seeing the final two of the main churches of the city.

Now, it was off to find St. Peter’s!

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Predigerkirche Zurich

I ❤️ Oil

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Olive oil.

Say it, moving your mouth, but not emitting a sound.

It looks like your are saying, “I Love Oil”.

Well, if it is oil, as in olive oil…I do love it!

I will admit, I never knew a lot about what makes one olive oil better than another. Last year, standing in the olive oil section of a grocery store in Athens, I was stumped. I needed some to bring home, but I had no ideas as to which one was better than the next. Finally, a kindly older gentleman took pity on me and helped me pick out a couple of bottles. Situation solved on that trip.

But, yes, I definitely needed an olive oil education!

So, when my friend texted me and asked if I would be interested in joining her on an olive oil tour while we were both in Rome, of course, I said YES!

Heading out into to cold, wet May afternoon, it didn’t quite seem as though we were nearing the Italian summer months. Still, we had a plan and the wet stuff was not going to hamper our good time!

From the Tiburtina station, we caught a train to Fara Sabina where we would meet our tour guide, Johnny Madge, a Brit who has lived in the area since the early 80’s. A former marble sculptor, he has evolved into a world class olive oil judge after buying a farmhouse in the middle of an olive grove and learning everything he could about the small oval fruit.

Johnny, a good natured gentleman, first took us for a coffee (to help perk us up a bit) and then we headed out onto the small, dirt roads of the Italian countryside. Since the skies were growing darker by the minute, we decided to first head to the tree that bears the title of the Oldest Olive Tree in Europe…there are signs along the way to prove it, though the Olive Tree of Vouves in Crete would probably disagree!

This tree sits in the yard of one of the locals…not in an olive grove as you might expect. It was conveyed that owner will sometimes come out and say hello (anticipating a few coins for his trouble), but on this day, I am guessing that the weather kept him inside.

We ventured through his yard, passing his pet peacocks and his prized pizza oven (doesn’t every Italian have one in their yard?) and to through the small stone wall which protects the area around the gigantic tree, which is said to be about 2,000 years old and still productive. This tree’s girth is so large that it takes about five people to hug it and is hollow in the inside. The massive branches are so heavy and tall that the owner has taken some steps to give it some stability.

Continuing on our journey, we stopped at a nearby olive grove and inspected a mere baby…only 500 years old. Also, hollow, it provided for some fun souvenir photos!

Johnny was a wealth of information and continually pulled over to the side of the road to show us different herbs and flowers that are native to the region. It was amazing to realize how much someone can glean from the land…something us city folks don’t often think about!

Because it was a Sunday, we were unable to visit the places where the olives are sorted and made into olive oil, a little disappointing, but expected. As we pulled into the parking lot of one particular place of business, Johnny explained the pruning and picking process to us and how the olives are pressed into olive oil. He further went on to explain how the determination is made as to whether an olive oil is categorized as extra virgin or not…something I never knew!

Driving onward on the winding roads, we looked up on the ridge of the mountainside at the beautiful town of Toffia, with is church standing proudly at the highest point and a grotto devoted to the Blessed Virgin down below in the valley.

Driving to the entrance gate, we were able to snap a few photos as the rain came down upon us.

Next stop was the small town of Farfa. Bordered by olive groves on either side, this picturesque village with unique boutiques, quaint restaurants and pretty houses is also home to one of the most famous abbeys in Europe, belonging to the Benedictine Order. Entering the abbey, I wasn’t aware of its status at the time, but I knew it was something special…unlike anything I had seen anywhere before. The cathedral was divided into three naves and every surface covered in beautiful friezes, with a stunning lunette representing the Virgin and the Child in the middle. Several chapels line the exterior walls and the interior wall of the facade showcases a large canvas of Last Judgment (1571) by Flemish painter Henrik van der Broek.

Such an important, historic place, several kings (including Charlemagne), emperors and Popes (including most recently Pope John Paul II, 19th May 1993) have visited the Abbey throughout the centuries.

Guided tours are offered on in Italian every day except on Mondays and would be a great way to see all parts of the church, including the crypt entrance and the archaeological museum if you have the time as well as the surrounding grounds.

Wandering around the village we stepped into many of the artisan’s shops inspecting their beautifully hand-made wares…of course, Mother’s Day was coming up and some tea towels to wrap around olive oil bottles was a must!

Finally, with the sun getting lower in the afternoon sky, we headed to the town of Montopoli. It was here at a local pizza restaurant, where we finally sat with Johnny to have an olive oil tasting. Explaining to us how to slurp the oil to the back of our throats, it was there that we were looking for a burn, thus giving us the knowledge that it was indeed, extra virgin. Sampling three different olive oils with our delicious meal was the something new to me…I never thought that I could drink olive oil straight, something very good for us Johnny explained and I never realized how differently olive oil could taste.

With full bellies, we packed up our belongings into Johnny’s van and headed back to the Fara Sabina train station for our ride into the still wet Rome but with a greater knowledge of Italy’s olive oil!

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Johnny Madge

Benedictine Abbey of Farfa

  • http://www.abbaziadifarfa.com/
  • Address: Via del Monastero, 1, 02032 Castelnuovo di Farfa RI, Italy
  • Hours: 1000-1900. Guided tours are performed hourly every day except on Monday from 1000 to 1300 and from 1530 to 1830 (Sat. and Sun. 1500-1900 during Summer)
  • Admission: free

St. Peter’s In the Golden Sky

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Churches in Pavia?

There are so many.

While planning my trip to the city, south of Milan, the Duomo was at the top of my list, but being in Italy, certainly there would be other churches to visit.

As I googled “churches in Pavia” the resulting map was a sea of red icons. I marked them all on my map and hoped to visit at least two or three.

After viewing the Duomo’s splendor, I decided to walk north towards the Visconti Castle which houses the City Museums of Pavia. As the sun was edging lower in the evening sky, casting a golden glow over the city, I realized that the castle would have to wait until a future visit, but I also wanted to squeeze in one more thing before I headed back to Milan.

A church perhaps?

San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro, located a few blocks away, was the perfect choice as its Italian name translates to St. Peter’s In the Golden Sky…very fitting as I watched the sinking sun light the remains of the azure sky.

Trying to follow the map on my phone, I must have walked past the church a couple of times. It was a local woman, out for a walk, who finally pointed me in the right direction…the unassuming church, with its brick facade, is tucked away in a corner of a small, shady piazza.

Walking into the dimly lit interior, I noticed there was not another soul in sight except for an elderly priest attending his duties near the the front of the church. The ancient atmosphere of the basilica was mesmerizing and as I made my way through the interior and its three naves, I discovered the remains of a twelfth century mosaic in the apse as well as traces of frescoes from the fifteenth and sixteenth century.

Though the basilica dates back to the year 604 AD, the current building, only dates to the twelfth century and was consecrated by Pope Innocent II in 1132. Its grand dome in the central nave was rebuilt in 1487 and I learned from the priest that the original color of the wooden ceiling was decorated with golden colored paint, thus giving it its name.

The priest directed me into the crypt under the presbytery, which houses the remains of Severino Boezio, consul, senator and philosopher and I enjoyed making my way through the low, vaulted space. The presbytery itself, however, is the highlight of the church and what made me glad that I sought out this architectural gem. It is here that the fourteenth century marble Ark of St. Augustine is on display…the centerpiece for which this church is most notable. The Ark is decorated with scenes from the saint’s life (including his conversion, baptism, miracles after his death and the transfer of his relics to Pavia) and it is the silver urn at the foot of the Ark that houses his relics.

Another highlight of the basilica is the sacristy with its ribbed vault, sixteenth century adornments and a seventeenth century canvas of St. Augustine and St. Jerome. There are also two beautiful altars, one sculpted in 1940 and dedicated to St. Rita and the other dedicated to the Sacred Heart, dating to 1963.


Noticing the priest standing near the door, I knew that it was time to call it a day. Thanking him, I headed out into the now darkening evening and my waiting train.

Elated that I was able to visit two of the city’s holy sites and especially one with such significance. I opened up my map and marked off the two, only to realize that I’ll have to make many more trips to Pavia!

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Basilica di San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro

Pavia’s Pride

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In the center of Pavia lies…the Duomo!

Yes, Pavia has its own.

Not a Duomo that can match the size and beauty of Milan’s, but one that fits the small scale of Pavia.

Built on the site of two pre-existing cathedrals, Saint Stephen and Santa Maria Maria del Popolo, Pavia’s cathedral was established in 1488 with the idea of offering a new place of worship to the city. Named after Saint Stephen, construction was initiated by Cristoforo Rocchi and later, Giovanni Antonio Amadeo, but most notably, Leonardi Da Vinci’s advice was also solicited on the project.

Knowing that there were many churches in Pavia, it was the one located in Cathedral Square that I most wanted to see. As I approached the square and spied the dome of the duomo, I must admit, it was a bit disappointing. When one hears the word duomo, one expects great things, like you would see in Milan. The facade, however, has largely remained incomplete with the terracotta surface still untouched by the marble in which it was supposed to be covered. Realizing that it was built over several centuries (resulting in a number of different influences) made me even more anxious to see what was inside.

Before entering, I spotted the remains next to the cathedral, the remains of the Civic Tower (Torre Civica), built in 1330 and enlarged in 1583. After standing proudly beside the cathedral for so many hundreds of years, the tower collapsed on March 17, 1989. To the left of the duomo, the remains of the two original churches can be seen in a fenced area.

Entering the structure, we found a much larger-than-expected cathedral consisting of a design of a Greek cross, topped with a dome designed by Carlo Maciachini. It is most interesting to note that this dome, held up by uniquely styled pillars, is the third largest in size in Italy.

At first glance, the far-reaching church’s marble interior appears to be quite plain, especially in the dim natural light. It is when you begin moving around the structure’s interior that you begin to notice the immense detail and treasures that lie tucked into each unique chapel that line the church’s perimeter and discover how light and airy the cathedral actually feels. Though it is tempting to head to the center of the church and examine the immense dome, and then the illuminated presbytery, take a deep breath and give yourself the time this grand structure deserves.

The main marble altar, with its eighteenth century top, was brought from the church of San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro. It draws you in with its intricately carved statues. The beautiful pulpit must be inspected thoroughly with its lifelike figures supporting the structure. It is truly amazing!

Making your way around to each of the chapels, there is much to discover in each. In St. Agnes’s chapel, there is a nineteenth century altarpiece representing a young version of the saint, lifting over her head, her symbol, the lamb. Another altarpiece, this one with the Virgin Mary, can be found in the aptly named, Virgin’s Chapel. Painted in Rome by Federico Faruffini, it depicts the Virgin with the city of Pavia at her feet. Beside the altar, there are statues of her parents Gioacchina and Anna as well as the remains of the bishop of Pavia, Damian.

In St. Peter’s Chapel, take note of the two symmetrical stones which show the saint’s coat of arms and his portrait and the cock on the left of the altarpiece which refers to St. Peter’s treason.

On the altar of St. Alessandro Sauli’s chapel, you can spy a stone urn, that holds the saint’s relics inside as well as plaster flying angels on clouds. The Chapel of the Rosary has a most interesting painting on canvas by Bernardino Gatti called Soiaro, created in 1531. Representing the Virgin of Rosary, there are stories about the Mysteries; fourteen of which must be read counterclockwise and the fifteen with the Coronation of the Virgin on the crowning tablet.

In the chapel of St. John the Baptist, a painting of the saint in the desert is flanked by statues of his parents, Elisabetta and Zaccaria. Under the altar is the body of St. Invenzio.

There are many other chapels to inspect including the Chapel of the Virgin of Caravaggio, the Chapel of Intercession, Sfondrati’s Chapel, the Crucifix’s Chapel, St. Crispino’s Chapel, St. Riccardo Pampuri’s Chapel, Trinity Chapel, St. Barnaba’s Chapel, St. Siro’s Chapel, the Chapel of the Sacred Heart and the Chapel of the Holy Family.

As you make your way around the cathedral, you will notice there are many notable figures and many past bishops, buried within and marked with engraved marble slabs. The most important person to be buried within the cathedral is St. Siro (in St. Siro’s Chapel). St. Siro is known to have been the first bishop of Pavia during the first century. According to legend, it was St. Siro who was the boy with the five loaves who appears in the Gospels. It is said that he followed St. Peter to Rome and was sent out to preach in the major cities of northern Italy.

The other most important item that should not be missed is the seventeenth century reliquary which holds the Holy Thorns which came from Christ’s crown. On Whit Sunday, an ancient mechanism allows the descent of the precious relics over a golden cloud to descend and go back up the following day.

Now that’s something I would like to see!

Exiting the cathedral and looking out onto the square, I thought of my first impression of Pavia’s duomo when I arrived. Turning back and taking another look, I realized something…

First impressions can be so deceiving.

Pavia’s duomo measures up in its own way!

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Pavia Duomo

Note: Check out the Regisole (“Sun King”) monument in Cathedral Square outside the Duomo. Originally erected in Ravenna, it was moved to Pavia in the Middle Ages and stands for Pavia’s deep connection with imperial Rome.

The Cathedral On the Square

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

As I stood before the regal, St. Louis Cathedral in the French Quarter, I watched a line of small schoolchildren, hand in hand, make their way to the entrance.

This brought me back to the day, when as a schoolchild on a field trip, I stood on this exact spot, mesmerized the city’s most notable landmark…one, known worldwide by its central position towering over iconic Jackson Square and its neighbors, the Cabildo and the Presbytere.

Though this beautiful cathedral is one for which the city is known, and is the oldest Catholic cathedral in continual use in the United States, few realize that The Cathedral-Basilica of St. Louis is actually the third Roman Catholic church to have stood on the site. When the city was founded, the first church erected here, in 1718, was a basic wooden structure for the early colonists’ worship. In 1725, the construction of a larger brick and timber church was begun and completed in 1727. When the Great New Orleans Fire ravaged the city in 1788, the church was destroyed. Rebuilding ensued and the new church was completed in 1794 with the church being elevated to cathedral rank. After a massive renovation to enlarge the structure was begun in 1849, resulting in the collapse of the central tower, it was finally decided to demolish most of the church resulting in very little of the Spanish Colonial structure remaining.

Today, what we can observe in Jackson Square dates back to 1850, however, the bell from the 1819 tower was reused and still there today.

The cathedral was designated a minor basilica by Pope Paul VI in 1965, but in front of the cathedral, you can spy a beautiful statue of Pope John Paul II, a gift of the Archdiocese of New Orleans and the American Italian Cultural Center. It was blessed by Pope Francis in Saint Peter’s Square and commemorates Pope John Paul II’s visit to the cathedral in 1987.

Entering the cathedral, I found the interior to be a well lit space though not as ornate one would expect. My eyes were immediately drawn upward to the beautifully detailed ceiling centered with a painting of St. Peter receiving his shepherd’s staff from the Savior and surrounded by apostles. Walking through the center aisle, I made my way to the great high Rococo style gilded altar flanked and topped by intricate statues. The three statues on the top represent faith, hope and charity and St. Paul, on the left of the tabernacle holds a book and St. Peter on the right, holds a book. Other statues with the cathedral depict St. Joan of Arc, Our Lady of Prompt Succor, St. Joseph, St. Anthony of Padua and the Sacred Heart of Jesus. In the foyer are statues of Mary, Queen of Poor Souls and St. Therese of Lisieux.

The cathedral is divided into nave and side aisles by two rows of wooden columns with an upper gallery lined with the flags of six countries and several local Catholic Dioceses. Passing through these columns, I made my way to the outer walls of the cathedral to inspect the beautifully rendered depictions of St. Louis IX, which tell stories of the saint’s life.

Glancing up at the organ, I admired its simplistic beauty. I later learned, however, that when Hurricane Katrina roared through the city in 2005, not much was spared including the cathedral. The powerful winds ripped a hole in the roof, which allowed water to enter, damaging the Holtkamppipe organ. The organ was sent back to Holtkamp to be rebuilt and finally reinstalled three years later.

Speaking with a volunteer docent, I also learned a couple of interesting tidbits about the cathedral. The cathedral contains the remains of eight New Orleans bishops. Another body buried in the church is Fr. Antonio de Sedella, commonly known as Père Antoine, who was a priest in the church. What is most intriguing about Père Antoine is that he loved his position at this particular location so deeply that he is alleged to haunt the premises. Accounts of parishioners and tourists claim that he walks the alley (named after him) next to the cathedral in the early mornings and appears during Christmas Midnight Mass near the left side of the altar, holding a a candle.

Another apparition often seen at the cathedral is that of Père Dagobert, a monk who resided in the church. If you visit on a rainy day, you might hear his voice chanting the Kyrie.

Although a Catholic house of worship, the cathedral has a rich history and appeals to visitors of all faiths and nationalities as evidenced by the large number of visitors meandering through the building while I was there. While wandering the French Quarter, have a look inside, attend Mass or better yet, try to get a glimpse of Père Antoine or Père Dagobert. All experiences you will never forget!

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St. Louis Cathedral

  • http://www.stlouiscathedral.org/
  • Address: 615 Pere Antoine Alley, New Orleans, LA 70116
  • Hours: Daily, 0830-1600. Daily Mass, 12:05
  • Tours: Self-guided brochures are available in the entrance for a $1.00 donation. Visitors can get an impromptu tour from our volunteer docents when available. Guided tours for groups are only available with prior reservations.
  • Admission: free
  • Tours: Self-guided brochures are available in the entrance for $1.00 donation and impromptu tours are available from volunteer docents when present.
  • Getting There: By bus, lines #5 and #55. By streetcar, line #49, found at St. Anne Street, 5 blocks northwest of the cathedral.

The Nun’s Nest

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

As a young, Catholic girl in Louisiana, I attended Catholic school.

In my white shirt and pleated, dark navy skirt, I happily attended school every day, eager to learn not only the rudimentary lessons but the religious ones as well.

Though many of my teachers were non-clerical, I did have the privilege to be taught by a handful of nuns over the years. Sisters Martial, Cecilia, Fatima, Roland and David.

These nuns resided in the nearby convent and we always loved going there to help with projects and pray in the chapel. It was such a feeling of peace and a peek into a completely different way of life.

While traipsing around the French Quarter, I happened upon the Ursaline Convent and Museum. Disappointed to find that it had just closed for the day, I turned away eager to return as soon as possible. The next day, I was back, bright and early, to tour the oldest building in the Mississippi Valley that acted as home, orphanage and school for the Ursaline Nuns.

After LaSalle’s discovery of the mouth of the Mississippi, Father Nicolas Ignace de Beaubois (with the help of Governor Bienville) sought out the assistance of the Ursaline nuns to travel to France’s first settlement in the lower Mississippi Valley.

There was a great need for ministering at the poorly run hospital and also for the education of the young girls of the colony.

The nuns arrived in 1727 and the convent built for them was completed in 1734. After the city’s first Eucharistic procession, the nuns accompanied by notables and citizens, they moved into their new home which faced the river. The convent served as home and the center of operations for the hospital and school until the new convent on Chartres Street was completed in 1752.

This new convent, built slightly before the city’s grand Cathedral, was constructed in the French Colonial style. It has been described as “the finest surviving example of French Colonial public architecture in the country” by the National Parks Service.

It was this two-story white plastered brick building that I gazed upon as I entered through the old stone walls. But what set off this beautifully simple building was the green maze of a garden that lay before it. Stopping for a moment, I admired the old bell and the cast iron cross in the courtyard which was a gift of the city of Rouen, France to commemorate the arrival of the nuns.

Making my way between the hedges, I headed inside to see what I might find. Admiring the beautiful stained glass above the double doorway, I stepped into the foyer, taking in the wooden stairway, golden statue of Madonna and Child and a tall, wooden clock. This clock, I learned, was constructed from elements brought by the Ursalines in 1727. When the nuns were asked to establish a convent in Galveston, Texas in the 19th century, the community gifted it to them upon their departure. As a devastating hurricane swept through southern Texas in 1900, it took the lives of nine nuns, ninety students and thousands of residents. The clock survived, however, and was returned to New Orleans in the first decade of the 20th century.

The Ursaline Room was adjacent to the foyer and was originally the orphan’s dining room. Facing the river, these young residents could look out at the dark, fast moving Mississippi and realize that another life awaited them once they aged out of the orphanage. This room is now empty, save for a large statue and a handmade chasuble dating back to the 18th century. The original cypress ceiling beams are visible overhead.

It was here that I also learned of the Sweetheart statue. The small plastered statue was found in a convent attic in France by Sister Felicite. Despaired to see it so carelessly cast aside, she prayed for an immediate departure to the new French colony and was granted her leave almost immediately with the statue in tow. In 1788, this statue was placed by one of the nuns in the window of the convent as fire raged through New Orleans. The approaching fire was suddenly blown back by the wind and died out, keeping the convent safe. This statue has since then been credited with many astonishing miracles.

Making my way through what appeared to be a small sanctuary, I found myself inside St. Mary’s Church. This church was built in 1845 and served as the bishop’s chapel, the place of worship for the bishops and archbishops of New Orleans when they were in residence at the convent. It was the third chapel built on the site and it was interesting to learn that a bell tower that once stood at the location was destroyed by the 1914 hurricane.

The church was quiet and I made my way through admiring the beautiful altar, framed by angel and cherub statues. There were many other statues in church and the stations of the cross were distributed between the tall stained glass windows. It wasn’t until later during my tour, after talking with one of the staff that I learned that only one side of the church’s windows were authentic stained glass…the other side painted. I immediately went back to the church to seek out the window where it was discovered that it was not stained when cleaning and part of the bottom of the scene was rubbed off.

St. Mary’s Church Exterior

Exiting the chapel, I headed into the far side of the convent, where you can see some of the small cells where the nuns resided. One of these small rooms is currently being used as an administrative office and the others have been enlarged to house exhibitions. The most current being The Church In The Crescent: Three Hundred Years of Catholicism in New Orleans.  This exhibit highlights the history of the city and the elegant St. Louis Cathedral. Emerging from a small wooden church to the present day construction, its story is displayed for visitors to examine in the form of photographs, portraits, letters and artifacts. Although I had already visited the Cathedral, after the watching the documentary available for visitors, there was so much explained about the interior of the building that I almost wanted to go back and take another look!

Finally, I headed outside to the space that is now being used for wedding receptions. Once a wedding has been finalized in the chapel, the bride, groom and guests can head out to the tented area at the rear of the convent for the reception.

Beyond the tented area, however, is what caught my attention…a grotto containing the Madonna and child and the life-sized statues of priests and nuns praying. Each statue’s expression was unique, but one of utter reverence. Absolutely breathtaking!

As a Catholic, I truly enjoyed my visit as it stirred up fond memories of my childhood, however, anyone interested in the rich history of the city and its architecture would truly be enthralled with this amazing museum. Pray your way there!

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Old Ursaline Convent Museum

  • https://www.oldursulineconventmuseum.com/
  • Address: 2505, 1100 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70116
  • Hours: Monday-Friday, 1000-1600, (last admission at 1515) Saturday, 0900-1500 (last admission at 1415). Sunday, Closed.
  • Admission: General Admission, $8.00, Seniors, $7.00, Students/Military, $6.00

The Catholic Superstar

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

St. Vincent de Paul was born on April 24, in 1581 in the region of Landes, France. Growing up with deeply religious beliefs, he felt the calling to the priesthood early on and was ordained at the age of 19.

Working as a chaplain for Queen Margaret de Valois, he also served as a tutor to the Gondi family. It was during this time that he realized the inequities between the rich and poor and took on the rectification of this situation as his life’s mission.

After sixty years in the priesthood, where he served the poor and suffering, St. Vincent de Paul died on September 27, 1660. Canonized only 77 years later (considered record time) by Pope Clement XII, he was considered a saint among saints and such a Catholic superstar that in 1969, Pope Paul VI added his Feast Day to the official calendar as the 27th of September.

On a brisk fall day, it was this illustrious saint that I had come in search of in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. Located only a couple of blocks from the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal, where the saint’s heart is enshrined, the Shrine of St. Vincent de Paul (not to be confused with the Church of St. Vincent de Paul in the 10th arrondissement) is located inside the Church of the Lazarists Mission and houses a wax effigy of the saint.

Entering the church, I was surprised to find something extremely different from the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal, which I had just visited. An impressive festooned interior with intricate details decorating the walls, columns and doorways was framed by a high arched ceiling enhanced with blue and gold painting and framed, gilded medallions. While my impression of the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal had been of one that was light and airy, this church was more grand and elaborate and my eyes were immediately drawn to the grand altar filled with statues. Above the tabernacle, I could see the glass reliquary and St. Vincent de Paul’s likeness displayed within.

Since I had conducted some research before my visit, I was aware of the story of his exhumation. When first unearthed, the saint’s body first appeared to be incorrupt, however, when flooding damaged the area where his body had been placed, it began to show signs of decay. His heart was removed and sent to the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal and his skeletal remains covered with wax giving him a very realistic appearance.

Following the modest story of St. Vincent de Paul, conveyed through the pictures displayed in the stained glass and a canvas by Brother Francois, I walked along the side aisles which also displayed many statues and the casket containing the remains of St. Jean-Gabriel Perboyre. The polished marble floor reflected the lighting and the beautiful blue tiled ceilings.

From my viewpoint in front of the altar, I looked upward, admiring the glass and silver reliquary, designed by Odiot, the best goldsmith of his era. I bowed my head, said a prayer and continued on throughout the remainder of the church. As I neared the exit, I turned for one last look and a movement at the reliquary caught my eye.

A person.

Thinking it must be a member of the staff, I once again prepared to depart when I noticed the person hold up their cellphone for a selfie.

There had to be a way up there.

Making my way back toward the front of the church, I began to search for the way up. Deep behind the altar, I found it…a dual stairway, on either side, leading up to the holy treasure!

An easy climb led me to the top, allowing for the veneration of the relics at an amazingly close distance, and also being able to appreciate the outstanding craftsmanship of the reliquary, the intricate statues that guard the icon and a bird’s eye view of the church.

Thankful that I had turned for that one last look…I may have missed the most important part of this unique shrine.

Missing the ability to be so near the reliquary of such an important Catholic saint is only part of the issue with the church. A simple structure that one may just stroll by while in the area due to its plain facade, it must be sought out with a purpose. It is not a structure that a person simply stumbles upon…unless you like entering random doorways…however, it is one that any person with an affinity for Catholic history should seek out. Not only a beautiful church, it is one that honors an amazing Catholic saint.

Seek out this superstar…he’s still shining bright.

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The Shrine of Saint Vincent de Paul

  • Address:  95 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, France
  • Hours: 0800-1200 and 1400-1900 (unverified)
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There: By Metro, Vaneau or Sèvres-Babylone stations. By Bus, number 39, 70 and 87.      

The Miraculous Medal

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Paris has always been a spiritual place for me.  

Having associated the city with its beautiful churches, cathedrals and miracles that have occurred within the country,  I truly love the peace it gives me when I visit.  

Years ago, I found myself with an extra day to fill while in the city.  Wandering through a part of town that I had never been to, I found the Chapel of Our Lady Miraculous Medal, tucked away on Rue de Bac, the location where the Blessed Virgin Mary appeared to Catherine Labouré in 1830.

The chapel’s location, is quite inconspicuous and I doubt that you would find it if you were not actively trying to do so.  Even so, thousands of visitors make their way to the chapel each year to attend mass and purchase the medals that Our Lady requested to be created.  

Dating back to 1813, the chapel was dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus and located in the Hôtel de Châtillon.  It was expanded in 1849 and many times in the years after its inception.  The chapel we see today, was completed in 1930, however, the tabernacle, dating back to the seventeenth or eighteenth century is still as it was in 1815, coming from the building given to the Daughters of Charity in 1800.  

When Catherine Labouré was a seminary sister at the mother house of the Daughters of Charity of Saint Vincent de Paul, she began having visions.  In the first, Saint Vincent de Paul showed her his heart, each time in a different color;  white (peace), red (fire) and black (misfortunes that would come upon Paris and the entire country).  Her second vision displayed Christ presented in the Sacred Host, and then on The Feast of the Holy Trinity, He appeared as a crucified King, stripped of his adornments.

Her final vision came at the age of 24, when she received three visits from the Blessed Virgin Mary.  On July 18, the Blessed Virgin requested that Confraternity of the Children of Mary be established.  Mary’s second request was that a medal be created with the following invocation, “O Mary, conceived without sin, pray for us who have recourse to thee.”  Following her orders, the medal was forged and since its creation, countless miracles have been attributed to the medal as well as conversions and protection for those seeking it.

Everyone knows about the miracles that occur at Lourdes, however, it has been said that more miracles have occurred through devotion to the Blessed Mother while praying with this medal.  It became known as the Miraculous Medal when during the cholera epidemic in Paris, in 1832, the Sisters handed out medals and many people were unexpectedly cured and then turned their faith to God.

The first thing you notice upon entering the chapel, besides the large number of the devoted bowing their heads in prayer, is how light and airy the space is.  High ceilings frame the chapel and tall columns line either side, making way for the side aisles containing the shrine of Saint Louise de Marillac, co-foundress with Saint Vincent de Paul of the Daughters of Charity and the reliquary containing the heart of Saint Vincent de Paul.

As I approached the altar, I admired the tabernacle decorated with an angel carrying a cross and its carved door depicting the nativity, crowned with a shining star.  The tabernacle is flanked by two light-carrying angels and topped by a beautiful ivory crucifix.  Towering above the tabernacle is the large marble statue of the Virgin with the Rays.

Another statue of Mary, the Virgin of the Globe, caught my eye, holding the world in her hands.  

I walked over to inspect the aisle dedicated to Saint Vincent de Paul which contains the Altar of the Apparitions, a mosaic by Maison Maurmejean and the most important piece, the relic of the heart of Saint Vincent de Paul, which was brought to Paris from Turin during the Revolution.

Crossing over to the other aisle, I gazed upon the body of Saint Louise de Marillac, which has rested inside the chapel since 1920.

The main attraction of the chapel, however, is Catherine Labouré.  Buried in the chapel in Enghien-Reuilly, the location of her death, the vault was opened at the time of her beautification and her body was found to be perfectly intact.  It was transferred to the chapel and presently lies under the altar of Our Lady of the Globe in a glass coffin.  Many of the faithful kneel before her, laying down their burdens and tribulations.

After a few minutes spent in prayer, I headed out into the courtyard and into the gift shop.  There are many styles and sizes of the Miraculous Medal available for purchase as well as rosaries, prayer books and prayer cards.

A site of spirituality and miracles, a visit to the Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal is a must for true believers.  See the spot where these holy apparitions took place and see the person responsible for the medal.  Purchase one, wear it and share it with other faithfuls.  

The Miraculous Medal Prayer

O Virgin Mother of God, Mary Immaculate, We dedicate and consecrate ourselves to you under the title of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal. May this Medal be for each one of us a sure sign of your affection for us and a constant reminder of our duties toward you. Ever while wearing it, may we be blessed by your loving protection and preserved in the grace of your Son. O Most Powerful Virgin, Mother of Our Savior, keep us close to you every moment of our lives. Obtain for us, your children, the grace of a happy death; so that in union with you, we may enjoy the bliss of Heaven forever. 
Amen.

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Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal