El Diario de Guatemala SIETE

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DIA SIETE

Today is D-Day.

This is the day that I see if I made the right decision in switching Spanish schools.
After I made my breakfast, I took the looooonnnngggg walk…across the street… Literally, my kitchen window looks directly at my new school’s door. Yes, as I ate my microwave omelet, I was thinking that this was a sign. An omen. Maybe I was supposed to be at Antiguena Spanish School from the very beginning.

Nervously, I rang the bell and I was greeted by four or five people (teachers, I suppose) and then ushered into the director’s office. After I signed some papers and paid my weekly tuition, I was introduced to my new teacher Patricia.

Patricia was a bit older than my former teacher and as we got started on our lessons, I felt that she was much more experienced. I was confident in my interactions with her and she was very complementary with all of my responses. As the day closed, I felt very good about my lessons, yet was it too early to feel like I had made the right decision? I had also felt very good about my other teacher on the first day…
After I crossed the street and made my lunch, I made a plan for the rest of the afternoon. First, I headed over to a tour agency to inquire about a day trip to Tikal, then I stopped by the local clinic to see what day I could complete my COVID test for my return trip home.

Boring stuff completed, it was on to the fun stuff! Heading north, I walked a few blocks to the ruins of San Sebastián church. Only because we had passed near here on our way to Lake Atitlan was I aware that this church existed. It appeared to be much like the many other churches in the city and I took a couple of quick photographs.

Ruins of Iglesia de San Sebastian
Ruins of Iglesia de San Sebastian

Next, I took a quick tour of the Convent of Iglesia de Merced. Although, this church and ruins was a half a block away from my apartment and I had spent my breaks from school standing in front of the church, I had yet to make it inside this time while I was in Antigua.

Iglesia de La Merced
Iglesia de La Merced

It was wonderful to be back, but yes, I wish that the fountain which is the centerpiece of the property (and the largest in Central America), had been operating.
I had also looked forward to seeing the spectacular views of the volcanoes in the distance, but as I made my way to the top level of the cloister, a light rain was starting to move in. The horizon was cloudy so the only view I had was of the surrounding homes and businesses. As I stood near the railing, spying on the Mercedarian’s beautiful courtyard, I spotted something familiar. Next door was the courtyard of my old school. Thank goodness no one was looking up because I’m not supposed to be in town! Don’t ask…

Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Mercedarian Courtyard
Do Pedro de Alvarado Spanish School Courtyard
Iglesia de La Merced
Iglesia de La Merced
Iglesia de La Merced
Iglesia de La Merced

Despite the rain, I headed over to one of my favorite landmarks, the Capuchin Convent. I was banking on the rain stopping and I won that bet. Not long after I arrived, the skies cleared and I was able to enjoy the cloister and grounds of this amazing property. It’s no wonder that people choose this location for wedding and quinceanera photos as well the actual weddings themselves.

Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas Crypt
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas

Something I had been noticing at many of the ruins really bothered me…people carving their names into the ancient walls….Jacky y Berna, D y G…a lot of these names were surrounded by hearts suggesting that young lovers had visited together and wanted to record their dying affection. Well, I discovered something else today. Locals can visit the ruins for a modest sum…about 25 cents compared to my entrance fee, as a foreigner, of about $5.00. As most families have multiple generations living under the same roof, this doesn’t offer young people much privacy. Guess where the young lovers go to spend time together? Apparently, the Capuchin Convent is a popular place with its many dark former nun’s cells. Yes, I walked in on not just one couple, but a few!

On my way home tonight, I was thinking about all of the wonderful restaurants in the city. There was a bar and grill that I walked by every day as it was only three doors down from my apartment. Appearances are always very deceiving in Antigua with storefronts hiding what’s really deep inside…beautiful courtyards and interiors. As I walked by this particular restaurant, I was realizing that I had to figure out what I was going to do for dinner. On a whim and drawn in by the amazing Latin music, I decided to have a seat and dinner. I was craving a burger and when the waitress took my order she asked if I wanted two!

Am I so fat that I look like I can eat so much?

It was actually “two-for-one” night and she offered to package one of the burgers up for me to take home. I wasn’t really expecting much but when my plate arrived, I was greeted by the largest burger I have ever seen! And not only was it big, but it was muy delicioso!!! The best part was that for two gigantic burgers, fries and three beers, my bill came to a whopping $15.00.

I’d say that was a good way to end the day! New day, new teacher, new favorite restaurant!

What I learned: Be mindful when entering darkened rooms at the landmarks of Antigua!

Photo of the day: Convento Capuchinas

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Antiguena Spanish Academy

  • https://www.spanishacademyantiguena.com/
  • Address: 1a Calle Poniente #10 Antigua Guatemala, Sacatepequez 03001
  • Rates: $ 110 one-week classes, 4 hours, 5 days from 0800-1200. $ 135 one-week classes, 5 hours, 5 days from 0800-1300. $ 165 one-week classes, 6 hours, 5 days from 0800-1200 and 1400-1600 or 1600-1800. $ 175 one-week for both (not each), if you and a friend shared a teacher 4 hours, 5 days. $90 one-week classes, 4 hours, 5 days, 1300-1700.

Antigua Parroquia San Sebastian (ruins)

  • Address: H777+P9 Antigua, Guatelmala on Plazuela San Sebastian

Church and Convent of Our Lady of La Merced

  • Address: 1a Calle Poniente & 6a Avenida Norte, Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: Church, 0830-1745, Convent, 0830-1200 and 1400-1745
  • Admission: Adults, Q40 (about $5.00 USD)

Convento Capuchinas

  • Address: Av Norte at 2 Calle Oriente 2, Centro, Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Adults, national Q5 (about 60 cents USD), Adults, foreign, Q40 (about $5.00)

Puerta Once Antigua (Door Eleven)

El Diario de Guatemala SEIS

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DIA SEIS

Sunday mornings are for sleeping in.

One would think, right?

Then why were my eyes wide open at 5:30 a.m.?

So…I edited pictures, checked Facebook, studied Spanish (of course), cooked a big breakfast (that I ate in bed), watched television and listened to the neighbor’s (very loud) conversations…

Finally, I just got up and dressed for the day. The sun was shining and the sky a brilliant blue…so perfect, in fact, that it was the first day I was able to wear shorts.
As I walked out of my apartment, I ran into a young man that I had met while touring my new school’s facilities. He was from Brighton, England and he was very impressed that I actually knew where his hometown was located. I was disappointed to find that he had decided to go with another school, but as I had learned, everyone has to find the right fit! Jack and I parted ways and I headed to the restaurant that I had had lunch on my first day, El Troccoli…their caprese panini was calling my name!

From my vantage point at the table near the window, I marveled at how alive the streets were. People were everywhere! It was obvious, even more so, when I made it down to the Plaza Mayor and from the traffic, that visitors descend on the city during the weekends in droves!

There was a church that I did not have the opportunity to visit two years ago. The Capilla Nuestra Senora de Belen. It’s in the southwestern part of the city and gave me the opportunity for some exercise.

Capilla Nuestra Senora de Belen
Capilla Nuestra Senora de Belen


The church sits in a small park and although I found it to be closed, I was still impressed with its architectural elements on the church’s and chapel’s facades.
A couple of blocks away, I stumbled upon Iglesia Escuela de Cristo. Standing in the park across the street, I watched the patrons exit after mass. Noting that I was wearing shorts, I didn’t feel comfortable entering boldly. I hung near the doors and tried to slide in unnoticed, but one of the ushers took his place a few feet away, saying “Adios” to everyone. Finally, I gathered the courage to ask him to if it were okay to take one photo…thank goodness he said yes! I later learned that there is a beautiful convent is on the premises (not open to the public) and this is the church where the wake was held for the Hermano Pedro, Central America’s only saint. For those familiar with Antigua’s architecture, it should look familiar as it was designed by architect Diego de Porres, who designed the Fountain of the Sirens in the Plaza Mayor and other buildings throughout the city.

Iglesia Escuela de Cristo
Iglesia Escuela de Cristo

My next stop was the Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande. We had visited this beautiful church during our last trip and we loved that there are many food and craft vendors within the church grounds. Although the church was closed, I was able to visit the tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro and then made an interesting discovery. What we had missed during our first visit because of the massive crowds on the premises for Semana Santa, was the Museo de Santo Hermano Pedro and ruins. The museum was extremely interesting as were the grounds and ruins. I know that most people might think that the ruins within the city appear to be similar, but I love investigating the uniqueness of each.

Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Museum of Santo Hermano Pedro at Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro

Continuing my explorations of the city, I headed in the direction of the Museum of Semana Santa. Wouldn’t you know it’s open one day a month and that day had just passed?

Museo Semana Santa

I decided then to make my way toward Casa Santo Domingo passing the ruins of Iglesia de la Concepcion. Near the city’s entrance, I came upon a granizadas cart. Most people would be afraid to eat or drink things from the street in another country, but it sounded so good at the moment as I was sweating profusely, I decided to get one of the icy treats. Almost like a snow cone, the granizada was topped with pineapple and la lechera, sweetened condensed milk. It was extremely refreshing and after sitting on a bench in the shade, I was ready to go to my next stop.

The Ruins of Iglesia de la Concepcion

Casa Santa Domingo is a hotel in Antigua, but it also contains a couple of museums and ancient ruins. It was a good thing I was there during that time of day and in the museums because the skies opened up and gave the city a good washing!

Casa Santo Domingo Hotel
Casa Santo Domingo Hotel
Casa Santo Domingo Hotel
Museum of Santo Domingo
The Ruins of Santo Domingo
The Ruins of Santo Domingo
The Church of Santo Domingo
The Crypt of Santo Domingo
The Crypt of Santo Domingo
Museum of Santo Domingo
Museum of Santo Domingo
Museum of Santo Domingo
Casa Santo Domingo Hotel

Finally, with aching feet, I was hobbling back to my apartment when I came upon the Plaza Mayor, once again. The park was still bustling and I decided that I might have the strength in me for one more landmark. The 16th century Antigua Guatemala Cathedral. These ruins and church hold a special place in my heart as it was the first thing that my son and I encountered when we arrived two years ago. It was the end of the day and there weren’t many people inside of the cathedral ruins, so I was able to get some beautiful photographs and then say a prayer inside the church.

Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral


I then decided that I had seen so much more that I had planned for the day and it was definitely time to take an Aleve, have dinner and put my feet up.

I was here for school, first and foremost, but how can you not want to see everything that this beautiful colonial city is known for?

What I learned: Wear good shoes when traversing the city!

Photo of the day: Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins

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Casa Troccoli

Iglesia de Belen

Iglesia Escuela de Cristo

Santuario San Francisco el Grande and Museo del Hermano Pedro

Casa Santo Domingo

  • https://www.casasantodomingo.com.gt/
  • Address: 3a Calle Oriente 28, Centro Histórico, Antigua, Guatemala 03001
  • Hours: Museum hours, Monday to Saturday, 0900-1800, Sunday, 1100-1800
  • Admission: Adults, foreign, Q40 (about $5.00 USD)

Catedral San Jose

Catedral de San Jose

El Diario de Guatemala CUATRO

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DIA CUATRO

Figuring out how to cook scrambled eggs in the microwave saved me about twenty minutes this morning. Why have I never figured this out before?

Because of my discovery, I was actually able to leisurely walk to school this morning.
I must admit, I wasn’t eager to begin my day in the classroom. I felt a bit frustrated even with the studying I had done the night before. But I was here to learn and I was going to try my hardest!

The school day began very well and I had some “Aha!” moments when I understood some forms of the verbs I was studying. I felt like I was finally getting somewhere! After my break, I returned to the table with my teacher. Like yesterday, I felt like we lost a bit of steam. On this day, I think she misinterpreted some things I told her and I began to feel like she was getting frustrated with me which, in turn, was making me frustrated. Next thing you know, she had me playing Scrabble in Spanish. Now, I suck at Scrabble in English and I pulled some bad tiles. I couldn’t even make words in English, much less in Spanish and she made me play for an hour until class was finished. Enough said.

Maybe this wasn’t the best fit after all. She was a lovely person and I enjoyed our interactions, but I was distracted by the other student and I noticed that she was spending a lot of time listening to his lesson.

During lunchtime in my apartment, I glanced out of my window at the door across the street.

Academia de Antiguena. This had been my second choice of schools.
Putting aside my quesadillas, I walked over and rang the bell. Speaking with the director, I explained my situation, was given a tour of both facilities and offered one of only two spots available for the following week.

Maybe I made the right decision…maybe not, but school is even closer, it’s a lot cheaper and has better facilities. I think that all of those are positives.

Once that was done, it was time to get my culture of the day. One of my favorite places I visited a couple of years ago was the Convento de Recoleccion. This convent and basilica were destroyed during the earthquake of 1773. The ceiling of the Basilica collapsed into the church, leaving the walls standing. Visitors are allowed to enter the remains of the basilica and make their way around the giant, boulder-like remains. It makes for some amazing photos! Connected to the basilica is the remains of the convent. It contains a few open courtyards flanked by many rooms. With not so many visitors in the city, I had the place to myself…what a peaceful afternoon!

What I learned today: Volcano Fuego is erupting nearby and there was an earthquake last Sunday. Sometimes the universe wants you to “shake it up”.

Photo of the day: Convento de Recoleccion

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Convento de Recoleccion

  • Address: 1a Calle Poniente and Avenida de la Recoleccion
  • Hours: 0900-1700
  • Admission: Adults, foreign, 40Q (about 5.50 USD)

El Diario de Guatemala TRES

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DIA TRES

Today I woke up eager to return to my classes and show off my stuff! I was feeling pretty good about yesterday!

I guess the day had other plans for me. First of all, my stove top wouldn’t heat up my pan and it took me about 20 minutes to cook my eggs, causing me to have to run to school, sans mask, getting a few dirty looks and making me arrive about a minute late. One minute late doesn’t sound so bad to most people but the flight attendant in me was freaking out…this “plane” was late and I hate making anyone wait.

My lessons began and I started out telling Heydi about my day yesterday. I was able to describe in Spanish, in pretty good detail about my trip to San Jeronimo, the supermarket, what I bought and what I had for dinner as well as what I watched on Netflix.

After this, she insisted on trying to teach me some verbs I didn’t know. The nerve! These verbs had very different endings and I was so confused. This led me to continually make simple mistakes…mistakes on things I actually knew which was completely frustrating!

She gave me homework and told me that I really need to study. Of course, I knew that I was going to have to study, but I just felt very degraded after class.
I returned to my Airbnb, made some mini quesadillas and eyed my cerveza…in that moment I felt like I really could use a beer! Later. There were things to see in the city!

The sun was out and it was warmer than usual, so I decided that I needed a little field trip and some exercise. Walking toward the north of the city, I began the climb to the top of Cerro de la Cruz, the hill that overlooks the city and sports a large cross. A few hundred steps later, I was sitting on the wall, gazing over the city and praying that the clouds would part a little more so that I could see the top of the Volcan de Agua, the volcano that towers over the area.

Cerro de la Cruz
Cerro de la Cruz
Cerro de la Cruz

While gazing over the city, I had spotted the ruins of the convent, Santa Maria Teresa De Jesus and decided that this would be my next destination. As I headed down the hill, I first stopped at the remains of the Church of Candelaria, captured a few photos and then walked to the convent. It had been one of the first ruins that my son, Ian, and I had visited two years ago and we had enjoyed its beautiful cloister and fountain. I spent some time meandering through its many rooms and was just about to leave when the gentleman who sold me my ticket asked me a question (in Spanish).

The ruins of the Church of Candelaria

Santa Maria Teresa De Jesus

“Did you see the crypt and the basilica?”

Um, no.

He showed me on the map, adjacent to the door, the layout of the building and pointing to a set of stairs in a room, that I had not entered as I thought it to be a storage room.

I followed his directions and amazingly, there was a set of steps leading down into a room which also led to the ruins of the basilica. In the far corner, there was also a set of stairs leading to the old crypt.

There was nothing much in the crypt, but as I headed back up and into the basilica, I was simply amazed. Not just because you could still see much of the workmanship being restored, but because it is baffling that visitors are allowed in this area of construction…scaffolding, tools, bags of cement and goodness knows what else filled the space. In the United States, this would have been condemned and no one allowed near, much less in the building. Despite the mess, it was wonderful to see this space up close, as I had only spied it from the street, behind the gate.

Thanking the gentleman, we exchanged pleasantries (in Spanish, of course) and I explained that I was in Antigua for Spanish school. He asked how long I had been there and I said it was my second day. He told me I was very smart for learning that much in just two days! Lol! I got a good laugh out of that but I went on letting him believe I was muy inteligente!

Continuing my explorations, I admired the architecture of the area and the unique doors and doorknockers and then headed over to the El Carmen market, pausing to snap a few photos of the ruins of El Carmen church next door.

Ruins of El Carmen Catholic Church
Ruins of El Carmen Catholic Church

I had vowed not to buy anything early in my trip, but next thing you know I was walking out with a table runner. Okay, I am a bit of a sucker sometimes…it was Father’s Day in Guatemala, after all, and he hadn’t had a sale all day!

Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen

As I exited the market, I heard a large boom! Praying it wasn’t one of the nearby volcanoes, I realized that I was feeling a few raindrops!

Time to go home.

What do you do when it’s pouring outside?

Have happy hour!

That was a good ending to the day that didn’t start so well!

What I learned: There are many hidden treasures in Guatemala, you just have to talk to the right person, in the right language, to find them!

Photo of the day: The Cloister of Convento Santa Teresa de Jesus

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Cerro de La Cruz

  • Address: Al final de la 1ª Avenida Norte, Antigua, Guatemala 03001
  • Hours: 0700-1800, daily
  • Admission: free

Convento Santa Teresa De Jesus

  • Address: 1era calle Oriente y 4a Avenida sur. Antigua Guatemala
  • Hours: 0800-1700, daily
  • Admission: Q40 (about $5.50 US)

Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen

  • Address: Avenida 3ra, 3ra Calle Oriente, Antigua 03001
  • Hours: 0800-2000, daily

El Diario de Guatemala DOS

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DIA DOS

Eyes open early…it’s the first day of Spanish school in Antigua, Guatemala!

It has been many years since I have had a first day of school!

As I took to the streets, headed towards my first day of classes, it dawned on me that I had not had a proper breakfast. The little convenience store next to my hotel wasn’t open (or bored, see Day 1) until eight, so I figured I would just have to tough it out until lunchtime.

Walking along 5a Avenida Norte, I passed under the beautiful Santa Catalina Arch (I couldn’t help myself for taking this route) and cut through the park at Iglesia de La Merced. Glancing at my watch, I realized that I had more than a few minutes to spare and lo and behold, there was a little bakery just across the street from my school.

Two delicious mini ham and cheese croissants and a Diet Coke filled the void but I realized with all these tortillas and pan readily available, I might have to seriously exercise in the afternoons!

A few minutes prior to eight (I definitely did not want to be late on my first day), I quickly snapped a photo at the entrance…why did I feel like my children when I used to make them do their obligatory first day photo on our front porch? Should I have brought a sign for the occasion? First Day, Spanish School, Antigua, Guatemala, June 2021. The locals would surely have thought I was a bit loco!

It was time for my day to begin.

Greeted by the owner of the school, business was on the forefront, having to settle up for this week’s lessons and my transportation to Antigua. A short dark-haired woman in her thirties then appeared.

Heydi, my teacher.

Mi maestra.

The person who was going to help me gain fluency in Spanish and not make fun of me when I mispronounced words and phrases.

The Holy Grail!

Taking a seat at a table in the courtyard, I glanced around. This was definitely not what I had pictured for a classroom. It was very rustic…plastic tables and chairs, birds flying around and a motorcycle parked inside! Well, I wasn’t here for a spa day! All we needed was a place to learn and I could hear two other students and their instructors just around the corner.


Mucho gusto! De donde eres?

And that’s how it began. Heidy spoke slowly and clearly and I actually realized how much I already knew from my past year’s studies. I understood almost everything she asked me and was able to respond, with the occasional stumble, of course. Before I realized, it was time for our half hour break.

The beauty of Antigua is that there are countless churches, convents, monasteries and ruins throughout the city. While I had planned to visit a different place each afternoon, it dawned on me that I was just next door to the magnificent La Merced. If I wanted, I could wander over during my break and talk to God (and perhaps pray for fluency). Today, I just made it as far as the steps. I talked to my friend, Kathie, on the phone instead.

The last hour and a half passed quickly and I was bidding Heydi, “Hasta Manana”. This phrase that English speakers casually use takes on a whole new meaning when you really have to see the person the next morning. I was now committed!

After returning to my hotel, gathering my belongings and checking out, I headed back in the direction of La Merced, this time to check into my Airbnb.
While walking along the streets of Antigua, the sidewalks are lined with colorful walls, marked with the occasional window, heavy wooden door, shop and restaurant.

I am always intrigued by what lies behind these walls…usually quaint courtyards and immaculate homes. After being greeted by Esperanza, the caretaker, what I was expecting was exactly what I found. A stone corridor, decorated with seating and Guatemalan artwork led to a small, grassy, art-filled courtyard. My unit was the first one we came to and as I walked in, I realized it was exactly as I had seen it pictured. An airy kitchen was on the first floor and a spiral staircase on the right, led me upstairs to my bedroom and sitting area.


While I was intrigued with the spiral staircase, it dawned on me that getting my suitcases up to the bedroom was going be a bit of a challenge! Definitely one step at a time!

It didn’t take long to unpack and make a quick grocery list.

Heading out, I realized that I my route was going to take me next to the ruins of San Jeronimo church. While planning my trip, I had decided early on that my afternoons would be spent in the city seeing the many sights. Why not begin today? The groceries could wait while I indulged in Guatemalan culture.

The site of San Jeronimo is not a large one, but one I had remembered fondly from my first visit. I wandered through each room and the courtyard, reveling in the knowledge that I did not have to rush. I could take my time and see and photograph things here and each afternoon, making the most of my time. Heck, I could even come back…what a novel idea!


Finally, I walked up the tree lined street toward La Bodegona, the supermarket. Paper towels, toilet paper, water, beer, diet cola…these were easy. But what could I buy for lunch or the occasional dinner? Trying to make these decisions was a bit tough when you are not familiar with some of the products. Eventually, I settled on eggs, tortillas, cheese, tomatoes and chips. Basic. Breakfast and lunch I could handle, dinner would be at one of the countless restaurants in the city!
Finally home and exhausted, I put my goods away and plopped down on the couch. Yes, it was going to be a Netflix and pizza kind of night!

What I learned: My waist is going to expand with all of these croissants and tortillas!

Photo of the day: Lilies of San Jeronimo

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San Jeronimo Church

  • Address: Corner of 1a Calle Poniente and Alameda de Santa Lucia, Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: 40Q (about $5.50 US)

The Churches of St. Augustine

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As I hopped on the St. Augustine’s Old Town Trolley to begin my tour of the city, I was excited for the frequent stops and to see many of the historic churches scattered throughout the city. Many of these churches were not open, however, being able to gaze upon the architecture of these sanctuaries was worth the ride.

Grace United Methodist Church, located on Carrera Street, looked a little familiar…not because I had been there before, but because it had the same appearance as the Ponce de Leon Hotel. Indeed, Henry Flagler built the church in 1887 in the Spanish Renaissance Revival style, using the same builders and architects of the historic hotel. The church was built to replace the wood-constructed Olivet Methodist Church, which stood on the site Flagler wanted for the up-coming Alcazar Hotel and it was donated to the people of the city. It is currently listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.

A little further down the street, I found the Ancient City Baptist Church. Though not as ornate as Grace United, it offered a rather stately appearance on the corner of Carrera and Sevilla Streets. Dating back to 1887, the church was finally built in 1894, when Henry Flagler offered the charter members a parcel of land at no charge but with a few stipulations…the property could not be mortgaged, a bell could not be placed in the tower and the building had to be completed within two years. The Romanesque Revival church was completed after a year’s time and has served the community ever since.

Heading down a block south, I found a magnificent piece of architecture, the Memorial Presbyterian Church. Now, if I found Grace United to be familiar, I most certainly felt some deja vu when I stood in the front of this church. Florida’s first and oldest Presbyterian congregation, Memorial was established in June 1824, completed in 1890 and also designed in the Spanish Renaissance Revival style. What made it so familiar to me, however, was that I have a visited a famous church much like it…in Venice, Italy. Memorial Presbyterian Church was based on the Basilica of St. Mark and also built by the architects of the Ponce de Leon hotel by Henry Flagler. I would have loved to have seen its interior, but due to restrictions, it was not open at the time. I contented myself with a walk around the grounds, admiring each and every angle of this prestigious sanctuary.

As I finally made my way to Plaza de la Constitution, I came upon the petite Trinity Parish Episcopal Church. This church was also not open, but it made for a beautiful photo subject situated on the square on the corner of King and Saint George Streets. The church building was completed in 1831, is the oldest Protestant church in Florida and is known for having some of the oldest and most beautiful stained glass windows in the Episcopal Diocese of Florida.

At long last, I made my way across the plaza to the church that I most wanted to see, the Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine. Thankfully arriving during its limited opening hours, I was able to inspect both the exterior the interior of Cathedral. Built in the Spanish Mission style (appropriating from St. Augustine’s inception) it is the oldest Catholic Church in the city and the seat of the Bishop of the Diocese of St. Augustine. First established in 1565, the church was built during the years of 1793 to 1797 and designated a U.S. National Historic Landmark. It is the oldest Christian congregation in the contiguous United States.

As I walked throughout the structure, I admired the burnt orange ceiling with its darkened wood trusses. Exquisite murals lined the walls depicting scenes from the history of the Catholic Church in the development of the New World and scenes from the life of Saint Augustine of Hippo. The stained glass windows were exquisite and allowed a filtering of light which highlighted the gold leafed statuary on the main altar and the orange and blue tile floor was extraordinary. One of the most unique cathedrals I have ever set foot in, I felt as though I should be in another country.

Hopping back on the Old Town Trolley, I finally set my sights on some of the other historical structures of the city.

Prayer time was over…

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Grace United Methodist Church

  • https://gracestaugustine.org
  • Address: 8 Carrera St, St. Augustine, Florida 32084-3622
  • Hours: Tours of sanctuary from 1300-1500, most weekday afternoons
  • Admission: Free

Ancient City Baptist Church

Memorial Presbyterian Church

  • https://memorialpcusa.org/
  • Address: 32 Sevilla Street, Saint Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: Visitors are welcome to take a self-guided tour of the church from 1100-1545, Monday through Saturday.
  • Admission: Free

Trinity Episcopal Church

  • https://trinitysta.org
  • Address: 215 St George St, Saint Augustine, Florida 32084, United States
  • Hours: Unknown
  • Admission: Free

Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine

Shrine Surprise

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Having visited Our Lady of La Leche Shrine and on my way to making a stop at each of St. Augustine’s illustrious churches on the trolley tour, it should be no surprise to anyone that I would seek out a small Greek Orthodox Shrine in the heart of the historic district.

Although I knew that this shrine was dedicated to Saint Photios the Great (Feast Day February 6), the Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople (middle of the ninth century) and to the first colony of Greek people who came to America in 1768, I was not sure what I was going to find on St. George Street. I wandered inside, finding no entrance fee and a small courtyard. Following the walkway to a pair of plain grey doors, I heaved one open and stepped inside.

At first glance, I was a bit underwhelmed. A large sterile room with glass cases housing ornaments filled the room and photographs graced the walls. But as I turned right, color caught my eye.

An archway led to a little chapel decorated in the most magnificent manner. Each of its interior arches was trimmed intricately in gold leaf and the ceilings and alcoves contained Byzantine style frescoes of Greek apostles and saints. Unlike anything I have ever seen, even during my travels abroad, it was no surprise that it has been described as the “Jewel of St. George Street.”

Thankfully, I was alone for quite some time and I was able to absorb every little detail including an altar and a lectern and inspect each of the stunning frescoes before making way for other visitors.

Exhibits within the museum depict the life of early Greeks in America and the development of the Greek Orthodox Church in America. The displays tell the story of the First Greek colony in the New World through various artifacts, photographs and historical documents. Of particular interest was a black and white photographic exhibit on the inhabitants of Mount Athos by Nikos Vatopoulos. There was also another smaller photographic collection by Peter C. Yalanis detailing Greek ruins just before heading the gift shop filled with religious treasures.

Although I had been excited to seek out the numerous churches in the city, this shrine took me by surprise. Much to my delight, I found a stunning piece of architecture hidden away in the center of the historic district. Now that my religious interest had been sparked by Our Lady of La Leche shrine and this amazing chapel, I was excited to set out and see the city’s other holy sites!

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St. Photios Greek Orthodox National Shrine

  • https://stphotios.org/
  • Address: 41 St. George Street, St. Augustine, FL, 32084
  • Hours: Daily, 1100-1700
  • Admission: Free, donations accepted

The Glimmer on the Mountain

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When I was a child, I remember my mother watching “The Song of Bernadette”.

The “Song of Bernadette” was about a young peasant girl, Bernadette Soubirous, who had visions of a beautiful woman in the city of Lourdes, France. Determined to be the Virgin Mary by the citizens of the town, she was later canonized as a saint by the Catholic church.

Though I have been to France many times, I always thought that it would be nice to visit Lourdes, one of the most important sites of pilgrimage in the world. Instead of the Grotto of Lourdes in France, however, I was able to visit a shrine which honors Our Lady of Lourdes, a little closer to home.

The National Shrine Grotto, located in Emmitsburg, Maryland, is a treasure that I had no idea existed until I was headed to Gettysburg. Passing Mount Saint Mary’s University on Highway 15, I noticed a glimmer on the mountain behind the school.

While scoping out the map for information on The Shrine of Saint Elizabeth Seton, I noticed the National Shrine Grotto on the map adjacent to the university. Deciding to check it out, I drove up the mountain road to the parking lot next to the St. Anthony’s Shrine Cemetery.

My anticipation was immediately appeased when I spotted what had caught my attention from the highway…the Pangborn Memorial Campanile, a 95 foot tower topped with a gold-leafed bronze statue of the Blessed Mother. Reflecting the dim light of the cloudy afternoon, it was breathtaking and I could only imagine what it would look like on a sunny day.

Making my way down the hill to the Dubois-Seton Garden, for a better view of the campanile, I made the circle from the Archbishop John Hughes cabin to the different statues and landmarks lining the walkway; the Celtic Cross, the Blessed Virgin Mary, the Sacred Heart, St. Joseph and the Child Jesus, Our Lady of Medjugorje, St. Vincent de Paul, Our Lady of La Vang and Monsignor Hugh Phillips.

Opposite the campanile, I reached the Chapel of St. Mary’s on the Hill or “The Glass Chapel” where mass is held daily at noon. Opening up my umbrella to shield me from the newly falling mist, I passed the St. Teresa of Calcutta Memorial Garden on the Seton Walkway enroute to Corpus Christi Lane. Assuming I was headed in the right direction to the grotto, I was not surprised to first find the Stations of the Cross set within the heavily forested pathway.

Stations of the Cross

Finding myself at a small fountain with a statue of Our Lady of the Esplanade in its center, I noticed the Chapel of Corpus Christi, built in 1905 on the site of the original grotto created by Father DuBois, just beyond. It is here that the Grotto mountain water springs forth and you are able to fill your own container. If you are lucky, you may find a grotto chaplain nearby to bless the water.

Passing the chapel, I finally came upon what I was in search of, the Grotto Cave. A replica of the Grotto of Lourdes in France, it was built by seminarians in 1875. There were enscribed pews lined in front of the grotto for prayer and reflection but because of the light rain, we found ourselves huddling under the nearby overhang while waiting for our turn to venture into the cave. Across from the cave is a statue of St. Bernadette Soubirous.

Taking a right, at the end of the lane I discovered the Calvary, Crucifixion Scene. The present crucifix replaced the old wooden cross erected by Father DuBois in 1815.

Making my way back down the mountain, I veered to the left at the fountain on to Rosary Lane. Instead of the stations of the cross, I discovered shrines to the fifteen mysteries of the rosary, Padre Pio, Our Lady of LaVang, St. John Paul II, St. Faustina, the Holy Family and others.

While it would have been nice to sit on one of the many benches and spend some time in silent contemplation, the rain was coming down harder and there was no cover along the pathway. Hoping to make it into the Richard and Mary Lee Miller Family Visitor’s Center, I discovered that, like many other things during this Covid crisis, it was closed.

The best discovery of the day, however, was that I didn’t have to travel all the way to France to pay homage to the Grotto of Lourdes. It had been nearby all along!

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National Shrine Grotto

  • https://www.nsgrotto.org/
  • Address: 16330 Grotto Road, Emmitsburg, MD 21727
  • Hours: Grotto Grounds, 0830-1700, daily. St. Bernadette’s Shoppe, 0900-1630.
  • Mass schedule: Mass Chapel, 1200, daily. Saturday and Sunday, 1200 at the Grotto. Spanish mass, 1400, Sunday.
  • Admission: free

The First American Saint

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As a Catholic school girl, it was de rigueur to learn about the many saints of my religion.

There are over 10,000 named saints and blessed people. Christians began honoring other Christians around 100 A.D. with many of the first saints being martyrs who had given up their lives during the persecution for their faith, a custom that was appropriated from the Jewish faith in which prophets and holy people were revered and honored with shrines.

While a schoolgirl, the most beloved saints, and the ones I remembered most, hailed from other countries; Saint Francis of Assisi (Italy), Saint Patrick (Ireland), Saint Anthony of Padua (Italy), Saint Christopher (Canaan), Saint Patrick (Ireland), Saint Theresa of Avila (Spain), Saint Bernadette (France). In 1975, just after I began third grade, I remember my teacher, Sister Mary Cecilia, giving us some important information. The first American-born saint had been canonized…Saint Elizabeth Seton.

I don’t remember learning much more about her at the time…learning to duplicate Sister Cecilia’s neat cursive handwriting seemed much more crucial.

Years later, during a visit to Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, a familiar name popped up on the map in the nearby town of Emmitsburg, Maryland…that of Elizabeth Seton.

The fact that a shrine to this American saint was located in a very small town in Maryland was quite puzzling as I knew that she was a New York native. Gettysburg had been my main destination on this trip, but once I learned of this shrine, it was a place that I simply had to visit and the mystery as to how St. Elizabeth Seton ended up here would be solved.

An arresting film in the museum presented St. Elizabeth Seton’s life in a brief twelve minutes.

Elizabeth Ann Bayley was born in New York City on August 28, 1774 in the Episcopal faith. Married at the age of nineteen to William Magee Seton, she had five children. During a trip to Italy with her husband, she was moved by the deep faith of those who practiced Catholicism. Before their return home, however, William passed away from tuberculosis, leaving her a widow. Seeking consolation and the desire to experience the deep faith that she had witnessed in Italy, Elizabeth decided to convert to Catholicism two years later, despite criticism from friends and family,

Portraits of the Seton Family, Mother Seton, top right

Working as a teacher for a short time, in order to support herself and her children, she was approached by a visiting priest, the Abbe Louis William Valentine Dubourg, a member of the French émigré community of Sulpician Fathers and then president of St. Mary’s College of Baltimore Maryland. Abbe Dubourg extended an invitation for Elizabeth to move to Emmitsburg and establish the Saint Joseph’s Academy and Free School, dedicated to the education of Catholic girls on land bestowed by Samuel Sutherland Cooper, a wealthy convert and seminarian at the newly established Mount Saint Mary’s University.

On July 31, 1809, Elizabeth Seton established the first congregation of religious sisters to be founded in the United States, which was dedicated to the care of the children of the poor. With the initiation of Sisters of Charity of St. Joseph’s, Elizabeth adopted the title of “Mother Seton”. Mother Seton, along with the sisters, worked tirelessly until her death on January 4, 1821, at the age of 46.

Touring the museum, I learned a great deal about Elizabeth Seton’s remarkable life from illustrations, anecdotes, 19th century artifacts and letters written by the saint. The 40 Years A Saint exhibit detailed how she became a saint and highlighted the event on September 14, 1975, when Pope Paul VI proclaimed her a saint.

“Elizabeth Ann Seton is a saint. St. Elizabeth Ann Seton is an American. All of us say this with special joy, and with the intention of honoring the land and the nation from which she sprang forth as the first flower in the calendar of the saints. Elizabeth Ann Seton was wholly American! Rejoice for your glorious daughter. Be proud of her. And know how to preserve her fruitful heritage.” –Pope Paul VI

This exhibit’s focal point is the actual banner which hung in St. Peter’s Square on the day of her canonization.

Moving on to the basilica located upstairs from the museum, I was extremely moved by the the artistic beauty of the building. Originally designed as a chapel for the sisters of the Daughters of Charity, upon her beatification it was decided that it would serve as her National Shrine. Completed in 1965, the main feature is the altar for Saint Elizabeth. Here, in the Altar of Relics, is where Saint Elizabeth Seton’s remains are entombed in a copper casket enclosed in marble and topped with a statue of the saint, sculpted in Italy and depicting Mother Seton dressed in the habit that she and the Sisters of Charity wore beginning in 1809.

Altar of Relics

Stepping out of the basilica into the beautiful sunny afternoon, a day fit for visiting a saint, I ventured through the well manicured lawn to the Stone House, one of the first homes that Elizabeth Seton lived in when she first arrived in Emmitsburg. The home, which had been expanded over the years to accommodate the growing number of sisters, is usually available for self-guided tours. Due to the Covid restrictions, however, this and none of the other buildings throughout the premises were open. There was an audio recording that I was able to play and listen to while I peered into the windows at the period furnishings that still decorate the structure.

Moving through the gardens, I made my way over to the White House, the first house of the Sisters of Charity. Originally called “St. Joseph’s House” for Elizabeth Seton’s high regard of the saint, it is fully furnished with items that include those in existence for nearly 200 years and includes a schoolroom, much like the one Saint Elizabeth taught in, and a small chapel. Again, the interior was not open to visitors, but a recording was available at the back door.

The cemetery was a short walk away. As Mother Seton, her sister-in-law, Harriet, and other sisters walked through the woods searching for a cemetery site, the story has been passed on that Harriet threw an apple core against an old oak and declared it to be her final resting spot. Sadly, it was where they laid Harriet to rest only four months later.

Surrounded by a high wall set with bronze stations of the cross, the cemetery is the final resting place of many graves of Sisters and Daughters of Charity. As I walked toward the center, I discovered the Mortuary Chapel. Built by Elizabeth’s son, William to honor his mother, her remains laid in rest here for only a short while. In 1846, they were transferred to the chapel’s vault and later exhumed for her beatification. As I saw earlier, they rest in the basilica.

Mortuary Chapel
Former Resting Spot of Mother Seton
Stations of the Cross

My visit to the National Shrine of Saint Elizabeth Seton had come to an end. So much information was imparted on me that I felt like once again, I was at St. Joseph’s School in Sister Cecelia’s religion class. Thinking that I was going to only learn about Gettysburg and the ghosts of Civil War past, I discovered so much more about the first American saint.

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The National Shrine of Saint Elizabeth Seton

Small Town, Rich History

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Just south of the Mason Dixon line lies the town of Emmitsburg, Maryland.

You’ve probably never heard of it?

I never had.

While on a trip to Gettysburg, I drove by this small town and learned that there were some important places of interest located here. I decided that when I departed Gettysburg, I would make a detour through Emmitsburg and see for myself what it was all about.

Once known as Poplar Fields or Silver Fancy in the 1780s, it was renamed for a local landowner, William Emmit. Widely known for two pilgrimage sites, the National Shrine Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes and the Basilica and National Shrine of St. Elizabeth Ann Seton, which I planned to visit, I also learned that there are a few other historical buildings within the town.

Just eleven miles south of Gettysburg, I drove through a quaint town with neatly kept colonial buildings and a rich history. Emmitsburg’s town square was the site of the town water pump and distinguished with a beautiful Victorian fountain which operated for more than forty years. During the summer of 1863, a great fire swept through the town and destroyed approximately forty homes. Almost one quarter of the town was destroyed and fifty-five families were left homeless. The town’s progress was greatly diminished by the fire and many had to seek employment elsewhere. Only a month later, both Union and Confederate soldiers traveled through the town on their way to what would be the Battle of Gettysburg. Confederate General J.E.B. Stuart and the 34th Virginia Calvary engaged here in a small battle with Federal troops which resulted in the capture of 70 Union soldiers and their captain.

I decided to park my car and take a walk through the downtown area. There were many churches, but it was the Catholic Church of St. Joseph that drew me in. Established in 1852, the steeple was added to the church in 1863 and multiple renovations completed during the next forty years. The church was relatively uncomplicated with a single aisle and a main altar. A beautiful painting of its patron saint, St. Joseph, was hanging behind the altar, a round portrait of the Holy Family located on the ceiling and there were some stunning arched stained glass windows lining its walls. After my visit was complete, I took a walk around the cemetery, inspecting the headstones, most dating back to the early and mid 1800s.

Getting back to my car, I next headed to the National Emergency Training Center campus which is located on the former grounds of Saint Joseph College. Located here is the Emergency Management Institute, the National Fire Academy and the National Fallen Firefighters Memorial. The latter was what I intended to see, however, the entrances to the campus were all closed.

It was the Shrine to St. Elizabeth Seton and the National Shrine Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes that I wanted to visit next, however, I discovered two other picturesque buildings near the road to the Grotto. St. Anthony’s Shrine, a gorgeous stone church, has roots dating back to the 1700s, however the edifice dates back to its dedication in 1897. The church was not open, however, even in the light rain that was falling, it was a fascinating and striking fabrication with its red contrasts. A short walk led me to another building marked St. Anthony Little School House, established in 1890. Again, the building was not open, however, I gather that it was a public schoolhouse created for use by the local children.

Side trips aside, it was time to make make my way to the Shrine of St. Elizabeth Seton and the National Shrine of Our Lady of Lourdes. Though Emmitsburg was an interesting detour, these were the sites that I couldn’t wait to see (and they were open for business!)

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St. Joseph Catholic Church

  • https://www.stjosephemmitsburg.org/
  • Address: 47 Depaul Street, Emmitsburg, MD 21727
  • Mass Schedule: Saturday, 1630, Sunday, 0800 and 1030, Monday through Friday, 0830. Open during daylight hours for prayer.
  • Admission: free

National Emergency Training Center

St. Anthony Shrine