weimere@aol.com – Page 33 – Snapping The Globe

House of Horrors

Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop

May Baily’s Place

Hotel Provincial

The Monteleone Hotel

The LaLaurie Mansion

It is no big secret that many of the city of New Orleans’ most famous landmarks are shrouded in stories of murder, ghostly appearances and unexplained happenings.

In the 1700s, pirates, outcasts and renegades roamed the streets of the French Quarter and lawlessness prevailed. But, even among the city’s elite, morbid stories can be found in the history books.

Fans of the show, American Horror Story, will recognize the tale of Marie Delphine LaLaurie, the wealthy homeowner who was rumored to have tortured and killed her slaves.

Having seen the third season of the popular television series, I was interested in finding Madame LaLaurie’s former home. Deciding not to book one of the many ghost tours that frequent the location, I set out on my own to find the site which is considered to be one of the most haunted in the city.

Located a few blocks from the Voodoo Museum, the dark grey, stately home looks much like the rest of the architectural gems that grace the streets of the city. But, how many others garner the interest that this one does? Just walk past the two story home at any time of the day and you will understand. Many people congregate in front of the home at all hours, snapping pictures of the mansion on the corner of Royal and Governor Nicholls Streets.

But why?

They could be fans of American Horror Story (although most of the scenes were shot at the Hermann-Grima House on St. Louis Street). It could be that they are hoping to experience some sort of paranormal connection to the spirits that supposedly roam the premises. Or…it could be that as they snap away on the cell phones, they are hoping to capture one of the entities that haunt its halls peeking out its windows at the curiosity seekers.

The mansion’s owner, Marie Delphine LaLaurie, belonged to a wealthy Irish family that managed an extensive real estate portfolio in the Crescent City. To aid in their endeavors, they owned a great many slaves.

Marie Delphine’s first marriage was to Don Ramon de Lopez y Angullo, a high ranking Spanish officer until his death, under mysterious circumstances, in 1884. Marrying Jean Blanque, four years later, they purchased a home at 409 Royal Street and filled it with four daughters (in addition to Marie’s first born child with Angullo). Unfortunately Blanque passed away eight years later, leading to Marie Delphine’s third and final marriage, in 1825, to Leonard Louis Nicolas LaLaurie. It was this marriage that was the beginning of a chain of events that have led to the mansion’s prevailing reputation.

In 1831, Marie Delphine and LaLaurie purchased a new home just down the street where they would reside with two of her children. The marriage was not a happy one and in 1834, LaLaurie moved out of the home.

Marie Delphine was extremely distraught at the departure of her husband and rumors spread that she became a cruel mistress who harmed her slaves and gave no thought to their well-being.

After a young female slave named Leia, fell to her death in the courtyard, Marie Delphine’s remaining slaves were set free following an investigation of the incident. Marie Delphine set about purchasing her slaves back and nothing more was heard for quite some time, from 1140 Royal Street, as she settled into her life as a single woman.

A few years later, when fire destroyed part of the house, it was discovered that Marie Delphine had kept seven slaves chained in the attic…starved and tortured.

As news of the event reached the citizens of the city, they attacked the residence, enraged, calling Marie Delphine a “monster” and a “demon”. Stories began to surface about the condition that some of the slaves were found in…bones broken numerous times and set in unnatural positions, one slave said to have had a hole drilled in their head with a wooden spoon sticking out, another found with their skin peeled back so that muscle and tissue were exposed and yet another said to have had their intestines removed from their body and wrapped around their waist. Others were covered with honey and black ants and many others found dead.

When the home was sold years later, workmen claimed to have found numerous human skeletons beneath the house placed in abnormal positions, barely buried in the soil and many with holes in their skulls. The authorities conducted an investigation and concluded that these skeletons were indeed bodies of some of the former slaves that were thought to be killed in the LaLaurie Mansion.

Many people have debunked the stories that have followed Madame LaLaurie saying that they were the work of unscrupulous news agencies and former neighbors who may have had grievances with her. It is not to say that she may have not been the nicest mistress, as she was once visited by a lawyer, sent by the city, to warn her about the mistreatment of her slaves.

After her departure, however former residence has produced many reports of paranormal activity…moaning coming from a room where the slaves were kept, footsteps and negative energy felt by those in or near the house. There were also reports that a demon terrorized many who lived in the building in the following years, once resulting in the death of one of the residents. When the mansion operated as a girls’ school in the mid-to late nineteenth century, many of the young girls related to their teachers that they had been assaulted, their forearms scratched and bruised. They always described their attacker as “that woman”.

Could the cruel attacker, be the spirit of Madame LaLaurie, the demon or some other vicious entity? Or maybe the slaves that were tortured here returned to repay the malice they received.

Today, nearly two centuries after the horrific fire, the mansion is still viewed as a place of horror. Though many owners have bought and sold the home, no one has remained in the mansion for longer than five years, as it has been viewed as a place that has been cursed, bringing bad luck and devastation to those who reside here.

As I stood in front of this well-kept, historic mansion, I didn’t feel anything strange or see anything that appeared to be supernatural…much to my disappointment, as I believe there is another realm that reaches its creepy fingers out to us in locations that are more susceptible. If you believe in the paranormal, however, seek out this historic residence in the city’s French Quarter. A ghost tour may be more to your liking with their intimate knowledge of this location and many others, however if you venture here on your own, you may be a bit disappointed as there is not much more to see than a grand residence. If you are one of the (lucky?) ones, however, you may get to experience some of the strange occurrences that others have felt outside of the building…pulling on bags and arms, lights illuminating and extinguishing or visions in the windows.

Visit if you dare…

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

LaLaurie Mansion

Address: 1140 Royal Street
Hours: Can be viewed from the street, 24 hours, daily
Admission: Private residence, no admittance allowed.

Pearls of Wisdom

Planning to take a cruise and wanting to make a change?

If you are moving on from your current cruise line and trying to decide on a new one…here is some (hopefully) helpful information on the Norwegian Pearl.

After our disastrous experience with Carnival during Christmastime last year, my kids had sworn off Carnival Cruise Lines for good. The only cruise line they had ever had experience with, our previous trip had given them no cause for a desire to travel with them again this year. Late into port and not docking in St. Kitts had soured their expectations.

After checking out different cruise lines for our Christmas vacation, and their many amenities and itineraries, we finally decided on the Norwegian Pearl.

Our first adventure with Norwegian, we were excited to see the differences between this cruise line and Carnival and Royal Caribbean.

From the very beginning, there were some marked contrasts.

Check In Our first personal interaction with Norwegian was at the cruise terminal. We found the check-in lines to be quite lengthy (stretching out of the building and around the corner) and had to sit in the terminal for quite a bit of time before being allowed to board. This had never happened with our past experiences, but to be fair, we were first-time cruisers…so we had no status. Back of the line anyone?

Accommodations With our past cruises, we had always booked the more affordable rooms…interior cabins and occasionally, a room with a porthole or picture window. This time, we decided that a bit of splurging was in order. Though we still booked the interior room for our children, my husband and I opted to spoil ourselves with a Mini-Suite and balcony. Our room was spacious with a sitting area that afforded us the capacity to enjoy time together as a family away from the crowds. As we sailed away from Tampa, instead of enjoying the festivities on the main deck with people we did not know, we played our own music and enjoyed drinks in our stateroom, hanging on the balcony and watching the Tampa scenery go by in the waning daylight. Without the feeling of claustrophobia that I sometimes felt in the interior rooms, I have to admit, I don’t know if I can ever go back to not having a balcony!

Food There were a few restaurants that were available for dining by reservation and an additional charge; Le Bistro (French, $20 per person), Cagney’s Steakhouse (Seafood, Steakhouse, $30 per person), La Cucina (Italian, $15 per person), Teppanyaki (Japanese Hibachi, $25 per person), Sushi Bar (Asian, a la carte pricing), however, we opted to take our dinners at the main restaurants, Summer Palace, Indigo and Lotus Garden. All were very good and the service impeccable. Our breakfasts and lunches were usually taken at the Garden Cafe and the Great Outdoors in the rear of the ship. Occasional lunches, snacks and late nights were enjoyed at O’Sheehan’s Irish Pub…the fish and chips were amazing!

Drink When we booked our cruise, Norwegian was offering a few perks that we could take advantage of with our booking. The Ultimate Beverage Package was included for both my husband and oldest son which included wine, beer, liquor and cocktails. We also had a $100 on-board credit for one of our rooms which we were able to utilize for a Soda Package for my youngest son. There were many bars throughout the ship and we found that with the Ultimate Beverage Package, we were not cut off at fifteen drinks like on Carnival. Our wonderful ship steward also graciously gifted us with a few bottles of champagne in our stateroom.

Entertainment Award winning entertainment was offered nightly in the Stardust Theater and shows featuring passengers as contestants were offered in the Spinnaker Lounge. The Not So Newlywed Game and Dance Clash were two of the game shows where passengers both competed with each other giving the audience comical diversions. Bliss Ultra Lounge, a trendy nightclub-like hotspot offered live performances, karaoke and even bowling lanes while H2Glow and White Hot parties on the pool deck gave passengers the ability to dance the night away under the stars. One of our favorite places to hang out, however, was the Piano Bar on Deck 6. Requests were taken by the performer and it was quite the experience when the entire bar joined in on the sing-alongs.

Other forms of entertainment along the upper decks consisted of the rock climbing wall, basketball and soccer court, jogging track, shuffleboard, chess, golf, swimming pools and hot tubs.

First-run, barely released movies could be found in the cabins on one of the TV’s movie channels or on the giant LED screen in the atrium and a game room and library were available.

My favorite thing on this ship, however, was something I had never seen on another…and maybe it was just because I didn’t know to search for it. My son was wandering around and came upon a bridge viewing room. A large picture window allowed passengers to look onto the bridge and observe the crew performing the operations necessary to sail the giant vessel. The room also contained some memorabilia and a model of the Pearl.

Fitness Center/Spa Though I didn’t use the gym, I did take a peek inside. Offering the standard weight machines, treadmills, stationary bicycles and ellipticals, it was lot smaller than I anticipated and my son confirmed that it was often crowded. While exploring one day, we ventured into the Mandara Spa and was offered a tour of the facilities. Though not my kind of thing, the most intriguing aspect was the Thermal Suite based on the concept of Turkish Baths and included heated ceramic lounge chairs, a Thalasso Therapy Pool, hot tubs, steam room, sauna, and tropical rain showers.

Sun Decks Last year, our biggest complaint with Carnival was that passengers were allowed to reserve and hold lounge chairs. There were never enough chairs available for passengers although many were chained up and pushed to the side. Finding two seats together was hard, finding five for the entire family…impossible. We found Norwegian to be the complete opposite…there was plenty of deck space and plenty of chairs at all times. I have to admit though, my favorite place to take in the sunshine was on my balcony.

Communication Like Carnival, Norwegian provides an app which guests can download from App Store or Google Play. This app allows passengers to pre-book onboard activities, dining reservations, shore excursions, entertainment as well as view vacation itineraries. The communications feature allows passengers to chat and message each other while onboard, view their account and see what is happening on the ship at all times. A charge of $9.95 per person is charged for use of the communications feature, however, it is well worth the price in order to stay in touch with each other…quite handy since our two rooms were not near each other.

Ports of Call The itinerary for this cruise was Tampa (departure), At Sea, Harvest Caye, Belize, Costa Maya, Mexico, Roatan, Honduras, Grand Cayman, At Sea, Tampa (arrival). We enjoyed our Christmas Day in Harvest Caye relaxing in the sun on our beach chairs. The next day, the biggest surprise was in store for us. Having never checked the map for the location of Costa Maya, I was pleasantly enlightened that it was closer to Belize’s border than to Playa del Carmen, reminding me of my time in Ambergris Caye. So much like the old Mexico that I remembered, we enjoyed both relaxing at the beach in the town of Mahahual and checking out the beautiful, modern port, filled with many activities, shopping and restaurants. Our third port was the most anticipated since we had been wanting to go to Roatan for some time. Sadly, since we were unable to disembark as early as anticipated due to the tendering process, our time in Roatan was limited. West Bay Beach, however, was unbelievable and definitely awakened our curiosity for more of the small island. Our last port, Grand Cayman, was fabulous. A place that we are extremely familiar with, we were excited to not have to worry about trying to figure out what we would do. But, for anyone else, Cayman is full of amazing adventures!

Punctuality Overall, Norwegian stayed on schedule. Our only glitch during the cruise was the tendering process in Roatan. Our arrival in Tampa was another story. Last year, we thought our arrival into Port Canaveral was extremely belated (four hours)…that was until this time around. A heavy fog descended upon the port of Tampa on Saturday, preventing ships from setting sail…a bummer for those departing that day. Our ship was instructed to speed up and attempt to sail into port on Saturday night instead of Sunday morning. Hoping to make it in during an anticipated clear window, we were halted when the fog did not lift as expected. The Norwegian Pearl and three other ships remained off of the coast until the heavy fog dissipated, allowing us all to sail the remaining distance back to Tampa…twelve hours late. Though phone lines were opened for guests to make changes to their travel arrangements and to contact family, it was nearly impossible to get an outside line. Since our travel arrangements could only be done through a secured computer terminal, standing in line for hours to use one of only seven computers available was not an option. After explaining our circumstances to Guest Services, we were told that wifi access would be complimentary using my personal device. Upon our departure, however, we found that we had been charged $80 for an hour’s usage. After our return, I contacted Norwegian and the charge was reversed.

Upon our return and a some time had passed, I looked back on our first experience with Norwegian.

Although there were some negative experiences, I do have to say that we enjoyed our foray with a different cruise line. It was nice to discover a new ship layout and a new overall product.

Was it worth the change? Absolutely.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Norwegian Cruise Lines

https://www.ncl.com
Ship Name: Norwegian Pearl
Itinerary: 7 days, departing Tampa. Ports of call, Harvest Caye, Belize, Costa Maya, Mexico, Roatan, Honduras, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands

Home Sweet Cayman

When you’ve been somewhere so many times, it starts to feel like home.

This is how we feel about Grand Cayman. So many visits over the years (sometimes 2-3 per year) had us feeling like we had set down roots on the island.

As our boys grew older, however, they wanted to see other parts of the world and sadly, we had not been to Grand Cayman in a few years.

We were truly missing it.

When we booked our cruise, we were excited to spot Cayman on our itinerary. There was nothing to plan. No excursions to book. We knew to rent a car and go to one of our favorite spots on the island.

Seven Mile Beach.

Not the public beach, mind you…where all the cruise ship passengers are taken, but the beach in front of two of the condominium units that we consistently rented over the years. A little further down the beach from the public area, there is not much foot traffic and the sand and water are beautiful.

There is beach access, from the road, every few hundred yards in this area and parking along West Bay Road is acceptable. Though we knew we would not be able to utilize any of the condos’ chairs or facilities, we planned to make camp under one of the mangrove trees and spend our time hanging in the water.

Walking out of the cruise port (where, unlike Roatan, they have amazing tender service provided by the island, I might add), past cruise hotspot Margaritaville and Fort George, we headed west and found Avis Car Rental. Grabbing a car for the day, our next order of business was to find a spot to buy patties. Jamaican patties are our favorite food and one we had to take with us on our beach excursion.

Driving down the newly built roadways linking Georgetown and the West End. It was interesting to see the development that had occurred over the years. Not the Cayman we remember from 25 years ago and certainly not the Cayman we remember from even 6 years ago. For goodness sake’s, an underpass now stretches across West Bay Road, part of a hotel development site.

Finally, parking our car along the roadway, we gathered up our towels, snorkeling gear and lunch and headed up the path to the beach.

Winter’s waters are a little rougher than what you find in the summer, so just standing in the water proved to be a bit challenging with the larger than normal waves rolling in. We managed, but I found hanging on the beach and reading a book to be a bit more relaxing.

Before long, it was just as it was in Harvest Caye, Costa Maya and Roatan…our time on the beach seemed to fly by making us nervous about getting back to our ship.

If you are a cruise ship passenger looking to enjoy your time on your own in Grand Cayman, do as we did and book a rental car. There are so many things to do on the island, including visiting the town of HELL (with it’s own post office that will postmark your postcards with the name), the Grand Cayman Turtle Farm, Rum Point and countless other beaches in between Seven Mile Beach, Georgetown, the East End and Rum Point.

If driving on the left is not your thing, there are countless tours that can be booked with cruise companies and on your own. A most popular one is Stingray City, an area in the North Sound of Grand Cayman, where southern stingrays are found in abundance. Paying passengers are taken here and urged to don masks and snorkels, though the water is rarely above shoulder level on one of the sandbars. Another sandbar is deeper and more suited for those wishing to dive the site. At both of these locations, visitors can pet and interact with the stingrays which come to feed in the chummed waters.

Whatever you go to Cayman for…wildlife interaction, adventure, or beach relaxation or even Jamaican Patties…you will not be disappointed. There is a reason it’s one of our favorite places in the world!

And yes, it was good to feel like we were home…even just for a few hours!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Grand Cayman

https://www.visitcaymanislands.com/en-us/about-cayman/our-islands/grand-cayman

Tender Mercy

You’ve probably heard the term, “Tender Mercies” in some sort of capacity or another.

According to the LDS church, tender mercies is defined as very personal and individualized blessings, strength, protection, assurances, guidance, loving-kindnesses, consolation, support and spiritual gift which is received from Jesus Christ.

I think Norwegian cruise line should define it as “passengers at the mercy of their cruise line’s abhorrent tender operation”…we were definitely not feeling guidance, assurances, consolation or support.

Roatan, Honduras has been a destination on my “go to” list for some time. When we discovered it was part of our Christmas cruise itinerary, we were elated and planned to see as much of it as we could.

Looking through our destination handout the night before docking, I discovered that tender tickets were required for disembarkation. Never having had this experience, I inquired with Guest Services as to the appropriate location and then informed my husband that he would be in line before the ticket handout start time to ensure our early departure.

We were scheduled to dock around 7:30 am and we watched the coastline of Roatan come into view. With my husband having secured Group 2 tickets, we were excited that our day would begin early.

Roatan’s cruise port in Coxen Hole can normally handle two ships at their dock, with Carnival utilizing their own port, Mahogany Bay further up the coast. Apparently, part of the Coxen Hole dock was damaged a couple of months ago and one of Royal Caribbean’s larger ships needed the still-usable portion. So, where did that leave us? With no Honduran-run tender operation available, the Pearl’s lifeboats would have to suffice.

Each able to hold approximately 50-75 passengers and with a total of 2,394 passengers on board the Pearl…well, you do the math.

Three lifeboats were being utilized and those passenger with status and shore excursions were allowed to leave first. So, our Group 2 ticket wasn’t as great as I thought. That, in combination with rougher than normal ocean conditions, slowed down (and even stopped temporarily) the tendering tremendously. By 9:20, Group 1 was finally being called. It wasn’t until 10:10 that we were allowed to leave the ship, a very slow process.

Walking up the pier to the Town Center, we fought the crowds and the urge to take it all in. Having to be back for the last tender at 3:00 pm meant having to rush to do anything.

Making our way to the taxi staging area, we quickly made a deal with a driver to bring us out to West Bay, an area I knew had a nice beach.

Driving along the windy, narrow roads, our driver, Tino, gave us a brief history of the area. Noting the heavy traffic due to three ships being in port, we decided that we had to give ourselves ample time to get back to the boat at the appropriate time.

After about a 15 minute drive, we were pulling onto a small, narrow road. Passing a few rental cottages, we were not sure exactly where Tino was taking us. West Bay? Parking his van, he helped us out and guided us into a restaurant where we paid the owner $10 per person for chairs, umbrellas and the use of the facilities (showers and toilets).

Following the sound of waves and music, we stepped out of the restaurant onto the sand and looked around in wonder. A pristine arc of sand lined the water’s edge. Clear, turquoise water reflected the bright sunshine and I recognized some of the condominiums that I had researched previously when we had thought we might travel there.

With only three hours to enjoy these beautiful surroundings, my husband and I first headed up the beach. Stopping into one of the dive centers, we inquired about the accommodations and dive packages offered. Inspecting each of the resorts we passed, we made mental notes of where we might like to stay upon our return on a future vacation. We then headed down the beach, finding it more crowded than where we had made camp for the day. It was evident that this was a place where cruise ship passengers head for a day in the sun.

Heading back, we ordered a few drinks and stood in the water, enjoying the soft sand beneath our feet and the sun beating down on our heads, knowing it was a crisp 49 degrees back home.

Three hours goes by pretty fast when you are having fun.

Packing up our belongings, we headed inside to find Tino and begin the congested drive back to our ship.

Glad that we had given ourselves ample time, we sat in traffic just outside the port and then found the line for the tenders to be extremely lengthy. It was quite frustrating to watch the Royal Caribbean passengers sashay on board, whenever they felt like it. At least we had entertainment!

Finally on board and happily ensconced the pub eating fish and chips, we looked out of the picture windows at the shores of Roatan.

Sad that our day had started out slowly, we were happy to find that because of my diligence in getting in line for tender tickets early, we were the lucky ones to have had more time onshore. A great deal of passengers had not been aware that tender tickets were required (read your daily handouts!) and many more missed privately booked excursions (non-refundable). Some passengers in higher numbered groups were unable to get off of the boat until 2:00 pm, giving them only an hour to wander around the port!

So, what did we learn from our time in Roatan?

Read everything that the ship gives you…thankfully, I knew about the tender tickets.

Research your ports thoroughly…with a quick decision to make, I knew where to ask the driver to take us.

Book outside excursions cautiously…cruise ships take no responsibility for being unable to dock and will not refund you for missing a pre-paid excursion. They will, however, refund you for the cancellation of excursions booked through the ship.

Roatan, has a ton of things to offer besides beautiful beaches…we will be back to discover them all!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Norwegian Cruise Lines

https://www.ncl.com
Ship Name: Norwegian Pearl
Itinerary: 7 days, departing Tampa. Ports of call, Harvest Caye, Belize, Costa Maya, Mexico, Roatan, Honduras, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands

The Mexico of Old

The Mexico of old. Do you remember?

Over twenty years ago, I remember driving around Cozumel in a rented (and rusted and dented) convertible Volkswagon Beetle, stopping at little bars and restaurants and snorkeling on stretches of unspoiled beaches. I remember riding the bus in Cancun for 35 cents and having dinner for about $5 per person. There were very few all-inclusive resorts and though many of the hotels were tall structures, they could not be compared with the mega-resorts spanning the coastline today.

My, oh my! Amazing what twenty years can bring.

The last time I went to Cancun and Cozumel, I was shocked at how much both had changed. Boutique hotels, heavy traffic, shopping malls and dinners averaging about $25 per person. I was not charmed by it anymore.

When we found out that we would be docking in Costa Maya, Mexico, I assumed that it was near Playa del Carmen and was less than thrilled. My recent visions of Cancun and Cozumel, still haunted me. I could only envision modern Mexico with beaches filled with tourists and high-end establishments.

And…I admit, I never really bothered to look at a map.

One of my good friends, who knows my adventurous spirit well, told me that the port, built by Carnival, was really nice but that I needed to take a taxi into town so that we could enjoy the beaches and local establishments. She said, “It’s like Mexico used to be.”

That’s all it took. I was intrigued and we would be heading into town.

As we looked down the coastline from our balcony, we could see a lighthouse and some low-rise buildings. Closer to the walkway from the pier, we could make out some thatched buildings, a large pool and what appeared to be a pyramid, but not much else.

After walking down the pier towards shore, what we found was quite surprising. This port was amazing! Pools, plenty of lounge chairs, shops, souvenirs, restaurants, bars, Dolphin Discovery, signs pointing to a beach area with snorkeling…

Did we really want to leave?

Surmising that my friend must have told me to go to town for a reason, we continued the long walk to the front of the property, winding our way through the stalls and artwork. Only spotting one cab parked alongside the curb, we assumed that taxi service was probably more expensive and decided to take the shuttle for $4 per person.

The open-air shuttle, pulled by a pickup truck, pulled out of the port’s gates and as we turned onto the main road, we discovered where the cabs were parked. The shuttle gave us a full view of the passing landscape. Not much was new construction and nothing appeared to be over four stories. After about a eight minute ride, we were pulling up to the curb in the town of Mahahual. Hedging the few locals who attempted to get us to use the chairs on their property, we decided to take a walk down the beach to first see what was available before making ourselves comfortable.

Mahahual…took…my…breath…away!

My first thought was that it looked so much like Ambergris Caye, Belize but with nicer beaches. Maybe if I had looked at a map, I would have realized how far south we were in Mexico…so very near the Belize border and Ambergris Caye. Located in the State of Quintana Roo, Costa Maya is the only state bounded by the Caribbean Sea to its east and offers a beach that extends north and south for a total of 62 miles.

We walked south, down the well-paved path, admiring the blue water, gentle surf and white, powdery sand, lined with beach chairs. There were countless restaurants and bars and no shortage of local women offering to give me a massage. The quaint fishing village, still had not caught up to the modernity of Cancun and Cozumel and I loved that there was not a name-brand hotel or McDonald’s in sight.

After being away from email, Facebook, Instagram and whatever it is that my children subscribe to, we were all anxious to log on, see what we missed for the past couple of days and check in with our friends and family. The first order of business was to find comfortable beach chairs, with some shade for my husband and good wifi. There were plenty of establishments offering chairs, all for free if you order drinks and/or food from them during the day.

That being done, we ventured out to the water’s edge, checked the temperature (a little cool) and signaled to our waiter for some drinks and lunch. The restaurant we had chosen to do business with, Maramao, was efficient and delicious…probably some of the best cerviche I have ever eaten!

After a while, I decided to take a walk. Heading north, this time, I reveled in the stone architecture, topped with thatched roofs, quirky bars, and countless vendors selling everything from t-shirts, to sandals, to Mayan masks…and much more!

After I while, I spotted our ship in the distance, reminding me that our stay in beautiful Mahahual was not permanent. Turning back, I meandered slowly, knowing that we would soon have to catch a cab.

And then, that was it. Our time in a paradise that I didn’t know existed was over.

As we sailed away from the port, I vowed that I would be back.

Mahahual, has so much more to discover…diving, fishing, ruins, ATV riding, ziplines, jungle exploration, water parks and authentic Mexican cuisine. Xcalak, a smaller village is located only 37 hours to the south and boasts amazing water sports and fishing. Mahahual, I learned, is only a six hour drive from Cancun. A bit lengthy but there are also flights to Chetamal, a two hour drive.

Yes, to rediscover the Mexico of old, I am willing to do that.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Costa Maya

https://costamaya.com/

Norwegian Cruise Lines

https://www.ncl.com
Ship Name: Norwegian Pearl
Itinerary: 7 days, departing Tampa. Ports of call, Harvest Caye, Belize, Costa Maya, Mexico, Roatan, Honduras, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands

I Belize in Santa Claus!

Christmas mornings are spent around the Christmas tree, sipping hot cocoa and watching the snow fall outside.

Right?

Not always.

How about Christmas morning lounging under a beach umbrella, drinking cold beer and watching zipliners flying overhead?

This is more my style!

For the second year in a row, we decided that we would spend our Christmas holidays on a cruise ship. While our itinerary had us cruising through the waters of the Gulf of Mexico on Christmas Eve, we would be awakened on Christmas morning by sunshine and views of the Belizean coastline from our balcony.

Norwegian Cruise Lines opened the port of Harvest Caye in November of 2016 which took four years and $50 million dollars to create. With such a huge investment, Norwegian has to be thrilled that it was voted the Best New Cruise Port in the Caribbean in 2017.

Not having done much research on what was available on the island, we decided that relaxation was in order for Christmas Day.

As our ship, the Norwegian Pearl, backed into position against the dock, we got our first glimpses from the back deck of the beautiful island dotted with beach umbrellas on the far side of the island and a lighthouse.

Disembarking from our ship, we made the long walk on the covered walkway to the island. Greeted by many locals at the Harvest Caye sign, wishing us a Feliz Navidad, we marveled at the beautiful, brightly colored buildings, home to many restaurants and shops. What is quite interesting is that all of these restaurants, amenities and shops are locally owned and all of the 400 staff members working on the island are locals.

Passing the excursions pavilion, which joins the marina, we took note of all of the guests lining up to travel to the mainland for the start of the many excursions offered…parasailing, exploring Mayan ruins, cave tubing.

Making our way to the beach, hundreds of bright blue beach chairs spread out before us beckoning for us to enjoy our Christmas Day…the perfect present! Finding seats, we spread out, eager to enjoy the Caribbean sunshine. Positioned in front of the lighthouse or Flight House, we watched countless zipliners fly over us and the bay 13,000 feet to the termination point at the other end of the beach.

The waters were a calm, emerald green and the 7-acre white, sandy beach made of man-made sand (made from crushed seashell), stretched out in an arc. We relaxed, enjoying the sunshine and a few buckets. So, after a few cold ones, it was time to venture out and find the restrooms.

Once I was out of the restroom, a path on the right caught my eye with its beautiful flowers growing on an arched trellis and I noticed what appeared to be a cage just beyond. Passing through the arch, I discovered a wildlife exhibit which houses many birds and animals indigenous to Belize. This area also includes a Blue Morpho butterfly house and the entire exhibit is free for all guests.

My curiosity peaked, I decided to continue my walk, admiring the many wooden carvings nestled in the foliage and along the pathways, while following the signs guiding me to the pool area. First, I encountered the kid’s splash pad, but the 15,000 square foot swimming pool was the happening place! The Caribbean music was pumping and the pool bar was packed with hundreds of guests enjoying themselves.

The pool area contained plenty of seating, some shady areas and tall palm trees. Bridges criss-crossed the water and on the far end, there was a zero entry area. There were several pool-facing cabanas available containing lounge chairs, couches, mini fridges, a personal concierge and private showers. There are also beachfront villas furnished much the same with the addition of air-conditioning, beach loungers, hammocks, and a golf cart for the day.

Continuing my exploration, I ventured into the commercial area which features shops selling chocolates, rum, jewelry, t-shirts, perfumes, handwoven items and paintings. Stopping at one of the small wagon kiosks, I made a deal with one of the vendors and walked away with a beautiful basket for my collection at home.

Returning to the beach area, I took a small detour near the lagoon which is the starting point for those wishing to kayak and paddleboard.

Finally, returning to my family, I found them wondering where I had disappeared to. Describing what I had found, they decided that it was time to check out the amazing pool, grab a bite to eat at one of the island’s eating establishments and check out one of the island’s four bars before heading back to the ship.

Having visited Belize a few years back, this was a much different experience from our time spent on Ambergris Caye. Though there were many similarities, both being islands along the Belizean coasts, this was a much different encounter. Of course, we were on a privately owned island on a cruise, however, we were also treated with a beautiful, sandy beach, something Ambergris Caye did not offer.

Honestly, I would return to either place, on a cruise to Harvest Caye or just on my own to Ambergris Caye. My true desire is to explore more of Belize’s islands and its mainland. As I always say…so much travel to do, so little time!

With a tropical climate all through the year, excellent facilities and excellent service. Harvest Caye is indeed one of Norwegian’s premier destinations! If cruising with Norwegian, check your itinerary to see if you will be putting into port at this beautiful location.

So, do we still believe in Santa Claus? You better Belize we do! I actually saw him walking around in board shorts on the beach!

Yes, I actually did…

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Norwegian Cruise Lines

https://www.ncl.com
https://www.ncl.com/harvest-caye
Ship Name: Norwegian Pearl
Itinerary: 7 days, departing Tampa. Ports of call, Harvest Caye, Belize, Costa Maya, Mexico, Roatan, Honduras, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands

The Prime Meridian

As a child, I remember our elementary school lessons about the Greenwich meridian, the imaginary line used to indicate 0° longitude and used as the reference for all other meridians of longitude, which are numbered east or west of it.

Also known as the Prime Meridian, it is similar to the equator, but an imaginary line that divides the earth into two hemispheres…eastern and western instead of northern and southern.

With my love of geography, it is surprising that I had never given it much thought in my adult years, especially with all of my worldly travels.

Scouring a map of London for things to do, I came across the Royal Observatory in Greenwich. Located in a different part of the city that I had never been to and on the beautiful afternoon, it seemed like a great destination.

After the short journey, I departed the metro station and made my way toward the Royal Observatory, passing the statue of William IV, the Maritime Museum, the Queen’s House Museum and finally making the climb uphill through Greenwich Park.

*View of Queen’s House and London from Greenwich Park*

Paying my admission, I entered the Royal Observatory grounds and strode into the courtyard.

The first thing I noticed was all of the tourists trying to get their best shot straddling the brass line which is marked with the latitudinal coordinates of major countries of the world. So, of course I took my turn, amazed that I was actually standing on spot, chosen in 1884, to define the time zones for all countries and cities of the world.

Why Greenwich? The United States originally had chosen Greenwich as the basis for its own time zone system, but in the late 19th century, the majority of the world’s commerce depended on sea-charts. These sea-charts used Greenwich as the Prime Meridian.

If you can recall my blog post, “Calling All Dan Brown Fans” from a couple of years ago, you will already know that this was not my first time encountering the Prime Meridian. Visiting Saint-Sulpice in Paris, made famous by the Dan Brown novel, The Da Vinci Code, I then stood astride the brass line (called the Rose Line in the book) which is marked by a brass strip on the floor of the church. For those wondering, Paris’ longitude and latitude coordinates are 48.8566° N, 2.3522° E and I fondly remembered this visit as I noticed Paris marked on the Prime Meridian here in Greenwich.

There was much more to explore at the Royal Observatory, I soon discovered.

The Flamsteed House was designed and built by Sir Christopher Wren, the builder of St. Paul’s Cathedral, under orders of King Charles II. Wren, also an astronomer, began the construction in 1675 and it was completed by the following year.

As I walked through the Flamsteed House, I learned of the ten royal astronomers who lived in the house with their families for nearly three centuries. There are many of the families possessions on display throughout the home,

Eventually, making my way to the Octagon Room, I learned that it is one of the few surviving interiors by Sir Christopher Wren, also responsible for St. Paul’s Cathedral. This grand room was designed mainly for important guests hoping to try their hand at astronomy in elegant surroundings with thirteen foot windows designed for the long telescopes used at the time. While visitors at the time mainly observed eclipses, comets and other celestial events, today’s visitors can observe the beautiful portraits, the unique ceiling, some astronomical instruments and two clocks, concealed behind paneling which only need winding once a year. Using 13 foot pendulums behind the paneling, these clocks still keep amazingly accurate time.

Moving on, I investigated the Time and Longitude and Time and Greenwich galleries which tell the story of the quest to find longitude at sea before satellite navigation was the norm and the need to develop accurate timekeepers. The Harrison sea clocks and the actual GPS receiver used by Sir Robin Knox-Johnston on his round-the-world voyage in 1994 are the centerpieces of these galleries.

Exiting the Flamsteed house, I took a look skyward, not hoping to see anything celestial, but the time ball which sits atop the house. One of the world’s earliest public time signals, in operation since 1833, the bright red ball drops at 1pm each day.

To the left, I headed to the overlook and admired the view of the Queen’s House and the National Maritime Museum in the waning afternoon light. Ducking into a curtained doorway, I discovered the summerhouse which houses a camera obscura. This camera uses a lens and rotating mirror to project a close-up real-time moving panorama of Greenwich and the Thames, the National Maritime Museum and the Royal Naval College.

Finally, I entered the last part of the observatory which houses astronomical instruments used to make meridian observations and the impressive Great Equatorial Telescope. I must say, seeing the size and complexity of this massive instrument is mind boggling. The largest telescope of its kind in the United Kingdom and the seventh largest in in the world, it was built over 100 years ago. You can channel your inner Sir Christopher Wren and take a peek during the observatory’s Evenings With the Stars. I may have to come back on another trip!

Not sure what to expect when I decided to venture out to Greenwich, I was quite pleased with what I found at the Royal Observatory and in Greenwich itself. A very educational experience, I loved that I have now stood at the Prime Meridian in two different cities. I also learned a great deal about the history of astronomy and time. Passing so many other available attractions in the picturesque borough…The Queen’s House Art Gallery, the Maritime Museum, and the fabulous Cutty Sark…I know that I have to make the return journey in the future.

Greenwich is a happening place!

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Royal Observatory

https://www.rmg.co.uk/
Address: Blackheath Ave, London SE10 8XJ, UK
Hours: 1000-1700, daily (including bank holidays), closed December 24-26.
Admission: Adult, £13.50, Child £5.85
Getting There: Located 8 minutes from Central London by rail, 20 minutes by DLR and also by boat access. Stations nearby are Cutty Sark DLR, Greenwich rail station and Maze Hill rail station and Greenwich Pier.

Nine Towers

What do you do when you are in Switzerland and have eaten too many Swiss chocolates?

Get some exercise.

You can climb a mountain; Mount Rigis and Mount Pilatus are nearby. If it’s winter, you can ski; downhill or cross country are popular. If you are not keen on going too far, however, you can take a walk uphill from the city center, to the imposing medieval ramparts, the Museggmauer.

The Museggmauer has guarded Lucerne since the 14th century, has withstood the elements and the test of time and now attracts thousands of visitors each year. Well preserved, the wall measures over 2,854 feet in length and almost five feet wide. The height varies depending on the terrain, but averages approximately 27 feet. The wall has nine gates that are still intact, with four open to the public and a large part of the wall is navigable.

I must confess, I had made a note, while doing research on Lucerne, that this was something important to see, however, I wasn’t quite sure what it is that we were going to see…besides a wall which has been described as the defining line between city and country. We headed uphill until we reached the Museggmauer, admiring its impressive length and stature.

Spying a stairway up into one of the towers, the Schirmerturm, we decided to make the climb to see what it contained. The first towers, Dachliturm, Allenwindenturm, Pulverturm, to the east of Schirmerturm, are still standing, although at the time, I had understood that no access to the wall or towers is allowed past Schirmerturm. There wasn’t much to see inside the tower, but we peered out from the windows and admired views of the city. Realizing that we could walk outside the tower, we discovered a walkway on top of the wall leading to the other towers to the west. What I later learned was that although we weren’t able to walk along the top of the tower wall to the eastern towers, the towers are accessible, each offering information on the Wey-Guild, the Vereinigung Luzerner Maskenfreunde (VLM), Club of Luzern Mask, the Tambouren Club and the Luzern Carpenters Union.

The Zytturm was next along the wall and contains the oldest clock in Lucerne. Constructed by Hans Luter in 1535, the clock chimes one minute before any other clock in the city. Despite the main clock’s maturity, the stone weights and pendulum still keep time precisely. We were able to move throughout the tower and see the inner workings of the timepiece as well as examine the exhibition of historic clocks dating from between the late Middle Ages and the 20th century.

The third tower open to the public is the Wachturm or the Watch Tower. The tower that stood here originally, the Heuturm, was destroyed in 1701 when lightening struck the tower, igniting the gunpowder stored within. The explosion damaged the adjacent wall, houses in town and five people were killed. The Watchtower was built immediately after the disaster, but only given its name in 1768, when the guard room was moved from the Luegislandegg to this one. Today, you can glean information from the ornithologic society about the live birds around the Museggmauer and the protection of bats in the district of Lucerne.

Passing the Lugislandturm, we continued on our way to the final tower open to the public, the Mannliturm. Of the four accessible towers, this was my favorite. Making our way up the 138 steps to the top, we discovered the statue of a little soldier (Mannli) which sits atop one of the two spires and is quite famous throughout Switzerland. It was here, from this ancient tower built in 1327, that we had the best views of the city, the surrounding mountains and the sparkling lake.

Exiting the Mannliturm, we were able to observe the last tower on the wall, the Nolliturm from the outside while on our way back into town.

The Museggmauer is truly one of the gems of Lucerne. With its free admission and rich history, it is something not to be missed, especially for its birds’ eye views of the beautiful Swiss city.

Make the climb.

Take the walk.

Enjoy the nine towers.

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Museggmauer

https://www.museggmauer.ch/
Address: Christine Zemp Gsponer, Schwanenplatz 4, 6004 Luzern
Hours: 0800-1900, April 2 until November 1
Admission: free

A Cross Across The River

Walking along the River Reuss, between the ancient bridges that traverse the waterway, I looked over…

and spied a cross across the river…topping a church.

The Jesuit church, with its recognizable onion domed bell-towers, governs the left bank of the river. The first Baroque church built in Switzerland, it is also considered to be one of the most beautiful. Designed by Italian and Austrian architects, under the guidance of Jesuit Father Christoph Vogler, construction began in 1666 and the church was consecrated a short eleven years later. Though the interior was still lacking, the shell and main facade were completed. Upon the time of consecration, several side altars were still missing as well as the high altar and the towers were finally completed in 1893.

A major tourist attraction, I anticipated seeing throngs of people entering and exiting the building, however, all was quiet in front of the church, leading me to expect to find the doors locked. Surprisingly, I found them open and made my way into the beautiful interior.

When in Lucerne, it is best to cross the river and view the church from the other side of the river to admire the simplistic nature of its facade. As you enter, however, make sure to reexamine the facade from a closer perspective. It is over the entrance door where you can find the beautifully carved statue of the Jesuit missionary Saint Francis Xavier, the patron saint of the church.

Inside the church it is light and airy with gray and rose colored relief decorations embellishing the white interior. The nave, leading to the altar, displays a decorated vaulted ceiling depicting the glory of Saint Francis Xavier. At the front of the church is a grand altar-piece made of pink marble…or so you think. Upon closer inspection, you realize that it is actually made of plaster and stucco, a process perfected in the southern Alps where marble is difficult to transport.

As I turned to gaze back at the way that I came, I was able to see the main Metzler organ, built from 1980-1982, with parts from an organ dating back to the 18th century. This organ is frequently used for recitals held in the church.

Enjoying the side chapels, the most interesting I discovered is dedicated to Brother Klaus, a famous Swiss patron, whose life-sized statue stands clothed in a brown monk’s habit.

While the church no longer provides an important religious life, with the adjacent monastery college being abandoned, it does provide tourists with a destination within the Alstadt and both locals and visitors with a magnificent concert venue which comes alive with the sensational acoustics.

If you are in the mood to pray, reflect or admire…check out the Jesuit Church in Lucerne, one of its architectural gems.

Jesuitenkirche St. Franz-Xavier

http://www.jesuitenkirche-luzern.ch/
Address: Bahnhofstrasse 11a, 6003 Luzern
Hours: 0630-1830, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Bus stop, Franziskanerplatz

Cross That Bridge When You Come To It!

Train travel in Switzerland is easy.

Efficient and far-reaching, it’s easy to go out and explore all that the country has to offer.

Having recently gotten a taste of venturing out to another city in Switzerland, I was ready for more! So…it was off to the train station to see what else I could discover.

The winner on this particular day?

Lucerne. Located only an hour from Zurich, it is an easy trip, albeit expensive, for the short time I had to spend there. The small city is known for its preserved medieval architecture, imposing mountains and beautiful Lake Lucerne.

History, architecture and nature! I couldn’t wait!

As we arrived at the modern train station, we anxiously peeked out in hopes that the blues skies that had been promised in the forecast were visible above.

No such luck.

A cool afternoon, it was quite overcast, the dim gray skies exaggerated by the dwindling light of the approaching winter season, yet, we anxiously ventured out, eager to see what the city would present.

When I had researched the Swiss city, the picture that I came across most often was of the beautiful bridges that span the River Reuss in the colorful Alstadt (Old Town).

This is what I most wanted to see and as luck would have it, they were extremely close to the station.

A quick two minute walk, past the archway (welcoming us to Lucerne) and a festive carousel brought us to the river. Just like in the pictures, here it was…the Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge)! I was aware that the bridge was beautiful from its exterior, yet when we set foot inside, I found out that so much more was to be discovered.

The 17th century, covered, diagonal footbridge links the Aldstadt to the Reuss River’s right bank. Destroyed by fire in 1993, it has been restored to it original beauty and is the oldest wooden, covered, truss bridge in Europe.

Named after St. Peter’s Chapel, located nearby, the bridge gives off the feeling of an ancient church, with its dark wood structure and ancient wood paneled paintings. These paintings, dating back to the 17th century, were created by local Catholic painter, Hans Heinrich Wägmann, during the Counter-Reformation. Though most of the originals, depicting events from Lucerne’s history, were destroyed in the devastating fire, about 30 were fully restored and command your full attention, sometimes requiring you to step to the side to allow those traversing the walkway to pass, while you spend a few moments studying each panel. These panels display the life and death of Lucerne’s patron saints, St. Leger and St. Maurice.

Also part of the bridge complex is the Wasserturm, or water tower, which stands proudly in the waters of the Reuss. Built about 30 years before the bridge’s construction, the tower has served as a prison, torture chamber and a municipal archive. Today, the tower houses a local artillery association and a tourist gift shop, however, it does not host visitors, except those seeking Swiss mementos.

Truly the symbol of Lucerne, I was awe-struck by the Kapellbrücke’s grand beauty, enhanced by the bright pink flowers that line its periphery. Once we crossed the bridge, assisted some beautiful young Japanese travelers with memorable photos and grabbed a quick beer in the nearby pub, it was time to head up the river to the other venerable structure which crossses Lake Lucerne’s tributary.

Linking the left and right banks of the River Reuss is the Spreuerbrücke. The Spreuerbrücke, or Spreuer Bridge, earning its name from the chaffs of wheat which were thrown in the river here, dates back to 1408 and was part of the city’s fortification. The bridge was constructed to connect the Mühlenplatz (Mill Place) on the right bank with the mills in the middle of the river.

From 1626 and for the next nine years, Kaspar Meglinger decorated the triangular panels in the bridge with 67 paintings that represent the Danse Macabre, leading everyone to understand that death is everywhere. Forty-five of the originals are still in existence today and contain the coat of arms of the donor in the lower left corner and coat of arms of the donor’s wife in the right. These paintings also contain portraits of the donors and explanations and the names of the donors.

Not the original bridge, the Spreüerbrucke was destroyed in 1566 by floodwaters but rebuilt with an added grain storehouse as the bridge head called the Herrenkeller. A small chapel can also be found in the middle of the bridge, a spot also marked with a crucifix mounted on the outside of the structure.

After crossing the Spreüerbrucke, though we wandered alongside the river, the third bridge was not to be found…the Hofbrücke, which once existed, was demolished in the 19th century.

Life in Lucerne revolves around its proximity to water as is evident by the Old Town’s location on the river’s banks. It’s easy to spend time perusing the historic homes, embellished with frescoes, that line the waterfront, browsing the watch and souvenir shops or dining at one of the many restaurants while watching joggers run by and swans glide gracefully in the clear, glacial water.

Though there was much more to explore in lovely Lucerne, I was glad that we had started with the bridges, the symbols of the city. Yet, our day wasn’t over. We had so much more to discover!

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Kapellbrücke

Address: Kapellbrücke, 6002 Luzern, Switzerland
Hours: 24 hours a day, 7 days a week
Admission: free

Spreuer Bridge

Address: 6004 Lucerne, Switzerland
Hours: 24 hours a day, 7 days a week
Admission: free