travel – Page 9 – Snapping The Globe

El Diario de Guatemala NUEVE

DIA NUEVE

I blew a fuse today.

Not a personal one.

One in my apartment. I guess plugging in your hairdryer and your curling iron into the same set of plugs is a “no go” here.

I was already running late, and this happened. My hair was still wet, so I grabbed my hat and headed downstairs where I discovered, as I looked to see what time it was, that the microwave still had power, as did the refrigerator. I plugged in my little fan and discovered there was power in the downstairs outlets so I ran and grabbed my hairdryer and dried my hair in the kitchen (in the dark), looking at my reflection in the microwave, all the while thinking that I couldn’t cook my eggs.

Exactly…I wasn’t thinking. It wasn’t until I got to the bakery around the corner to get croissants that I realized that I could’ve cooked my microwave eggs! Maybe it was my subconscious wanting me to get croissants this morning!

I felt more confident in my class today and I got glowing reviews for my knowledge of the uses of “Hay” and “Hay que”…thanks to Fannie’s help! Class passed fairly quickly, and I was soon back in my apartment having a quick bite to eat and chatting with my mom on Facetime.

My middle son had an expressed an interest in me purchasing more soccer jerseys for him from the local market, so I decided that in addition to doing my homework early today (with no assistance), I would run over to look for something that he would like. I quickly found the place where he and I had bought some when we were here a couple of years ago. After a little haggling, I got the shirts I wanted for the price I wanted. It really is helpful when you know more of the language!

As I walked along the streets, I realized how comfortable I was and how much more I knew about the city than from my previous visit. As anxious as I to get home, I was also very sad to think of leaving the following week. If I had to pick another city to live in, this would be the one. So, if my husband ever divorces me, you guys will know where to find me!!!

Tonight, I decided that I was going to dress up a little and try the much-recommended crepe restaurant, Luna de Miel. Just around the corner from my apartment, it was a short walk, and I was ushered upstairs to the rooftop terrace. I had discussed this restaurant with my teacher earlier today and she was a little afraid that I might be disappointed, being that I have eaten crepes in Paris often. Every table was full and the ambience was perfect. Not quite sure what to choose, I asked the waiter for his preference. He suggested Luna Parisina,
which was filled with chicken, caramelized onions, mushrooms and cream. Was it as good as anything I’ve ever had in Paris? Dare I even say better? It was so delicious and I was quite full, but I decided that I simply had to have dessert. Taking a cue from my Parisian favorites, I ordered a sweet crepe with butter, cinnamon and sugar. Muy delicioso! The overall experience was one of the best I’ve had in Antigua and I think I waddled home…just a tiny bit!

What I learned today: Two things. You probably guessed it…don’t plug my hairdryer into the bathroom outlet anymore and the microwave makes a pretty decent mirror in a pinch!

Photo of the day: Chinchines at the market

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Luna de Miel

https://www.lunademielantigua.com/wp_ldma/
Address: 6ta Avenida Norte # 40, Antigua, GT 03001
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 1200-2000, Sunday, 1100-2000

El Diario de Guatemala OCHO

DIA OCHO

My second day at school was going to be the deciding factor of whether or not I was going to make it in the Spanish language educational system of Antigua!
Day two at my other school was when the frustration began to set in, so I was nervous for my class.

Although we began going over some of the irregular verbs, I felt like Patricia never got frustrated with my lack of understanding. It didn’t help that while we were going over my lessons that I received a text from my tour company informing me that my flights for my tour to Tikal could not be booked for Saturday. I was so distracted, trying to think of how to fix this problem, that I wasn’t really paying attention to my Spanish lesson and I think my teacher could see this. It was with great relief when class was finished. But don’t think this got me off the hook…Patricia gave me a great deal of homework!

After class, I ran over to the tour agency to speak with Claudia about the alternatives for my Tikal trip. I had already extended my stay at my Airbnb to accommodate this trip so there wasn’t an option to just not go. In the end, we settled on my tour to Tikal for Sunday. It is going to be a very long day with pick up around 3 AM and return to Antigua around 9 PM. Since I am leaving the next morning to go back to Guatemala City to catch my flight to the United States, I am sure that I’m going to be extremely exhausted, however, I feel as though I must absolutely visit this Mayan wonder!

That taken care of, I made note of the good weather and decided to finally go to my favorite ruins, Convento Santa Clara. I truly think this is one of the most beautiful in the city! Since it was a weekday, I found the place to be mostly empty and the best part was that there were no young lovers hiding in dark corners!

After my visit to the convent, I decided to go to the Artisans market. It was a bit tough finding what I really wanted and negotiating in Spanish, but I found a few gifts that worked. Once done, I was making my way back to my apartment, passing under Santa Catalina Arch, when I noticed a store on my right just past one of my favorite restaurants, Frida’s. This store, Nim Po’t, was like the Artisan’s Superstore. Almost everything that I had just seen at the Artisan’s Market was in this store…plus some! (And they take credit cards!). I made mental notes on everything I wanted to purchase and when I arrived at my apartment, I wrote out my shopping list so that when I returned, I wouldn’t forget anything.

So, as I was making this shopping list, I was realizing that I was doing everything possible, to avoid my homework…thinking about going to eat out…thinking about editing pictures…thinking about calling home…you name it…I thought about doing it. Finally, I pulled out my work and took a look. It was much tougher than I thought. So, what does one do when you don’t understand your Spanish homework? You send a copy of it to your Spanish-speaking friends and have them do it for you! Well not really do it for you…but tell you some of the answers so you could see if you got them correct.

You know, everyone needs a helping hand or two every now and then!

What I learned today: the Spanish verb, “mandar”, which means to send and “a tiempo” which means on time. Next time I send my passport information to the tour agency in a timelier manner.

Photo of the day: Convento Santa Clara

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Convento Santa Clara

Address: Sur at 6 Calle Oriente 2, Antigua, GT 03001
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Q40

Nim Po’t

https://www.nimpotexport.com/
Address: 5ta. Avenida Norte 29, Antigua Guatemala
Hours: Monday through Thursday, 1000-1900, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-2000.

El Diario de Guatemala SIETE

DIA SIETE

Today is D-Day.

This is the day that I see if I made the right decision in switching Spanish schools.
After I made my breakfast, I took the looooonnnngggg walk…across the street… Literally, my kitchen window looks directly at my new school’s door. Yes, as I ate my microwave omelet, I was thinking that this was a sign. An omen. Maybe I was supposed to be at Antiguena Spanish School from the very beginning.

Nervously, I rang the bell and I was greeted by four or five people (teachers, I suppose) and then ushered into the director’s office. After I signed some papers and paid my weekly tuition, I was introduced to my new teacher Patricia.

Patricia was a bit older than my former teacher and as we got started on our lessons, I felt that she was much more experienced. I was confident in my interactions with her and she was very complementary with all of my responses. As the day closed, I felt very good about my lessons, yet was it too early to feel like I had made the right decision? I had also felt very good about my other teacher on the first day…
After I crossed the street and made my lunch, I made a plan for the rest of the afternoon. First, I headed over to a tour agency to inquire about a day trip to Tikal, then I stopped by the local clinic to see what day I could complete my COVID test for my return trip home.

Boring stuff completed, it was on to the fun stuff! Heading north, I walked a few blocks to the ruins of San Sebastián church. Only because we had passed near here on our way to Lake Atitlan was I aware that this church existed. It appeared to be much like the many other churches in the city and I took a couple of quick photographs.

Next, I took a quick tour of the Convent of Iglesia de Merced. Although, this church and ruins was a half a block away from my apartment and I had spent my breaks from school standing in front of the church, I had yet to make it inside this time while I was in Antigua.

It was wonderful to be back, but yes, I wish that the fountain which is the centerpiece of the property (and the largest in Central America), had been operating.
I had also looked forward to seeing the spectacular views of the volcanoes in the distance, but as I made my way to the top level of the cloister, a light rain was starting to move in. The horizon was cloudy so the only view I had was of the surrounding homes and businesses. As I stood near the railing, spying on the Mercedarian’s beautiful courtyard, I spotted something familiar. Next door was the courtyard of my old school. Thank goodness no one was looking up because I’m not supposed to be in town! Don’t ask…

*Do Pedro de Alvarado Spanish School* *Courtyard*

Despite the rain, I headed over to one of my favorite landmarks, the Capuchin Convent. I was banking on the rain stopping and I won that bet. Not long after I arrived, the skies cleared and I was able to enjoy the cloister and grounds of this amazing property. It’s no wonder that people choose this location for wedding and quinceanera photos as well the actual weddings themselves.

Something I had been noticing at many of the ruins really bothered me…people carving their names into the ancient walls….Jacky y Berna, D y G…a lot of these names were surrounded by hearts suggesting that young lovers had visited together and wanted to record their dying affection. Well, I discovered something else today. Locals can visit the ruins for a modest sum…about 25 cents compared to my entrance fee, as a foreigner, of about $5.00. As most families have multiple generations living under the same roof, this doesn’t offer young people much privacy. Guess where the young lovers go to spend time together? Apparently, the Capuchin Convent is a popular place with its many dark former nun’s cells. Yes, I walked in on not just one couple, but a few!

On my way home tonight, I was thinking about all of the wonderful restaurants in the city. There was a bar and grill that I walked by every day as it was only three doors down from my apartment. Appearances are always very deceiving in Antigua with storefronts hiding what’s really deep inside…beautiful courtyards and interiors. As I walked by this particular restaurant, I was realizing that I had to figure out what I was going to do for dinner. On a whim and drawn in by the amazing Latin music, I decided to have a seat and dinner. I was craving a burger and when the waitress took my order she asked if I wanted two!

Am I so fat that I look like I can eat so much?

It was actually “two-for-one” night and she offered to package one of the burgers up for me to take home. I wasn’t really expecting much but when my plate arrived, I was greeted by the largest burger I have ever seen! And not only was it big, but it was muy delicioso!!! The best part was that for two gigantic burgers, fries and three beers, my bill came to a whopping $15.00.

I’d say that was a good way to end the day! New day, new teacher, new favorite restaurant!

What I learned: Be mindful when entering darkened rooms at the landmarks of Antigua!

Photo of the day: Convento Capuchinas

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Antiguena Spanish Academy

https://www.spanishacademyantiguena.com/
Address: 1a Calle Poniente #10 Antigua Guatemala, Sacatepequez 03001
Rates: $ 110 one-week classes, 4 hours, 5 days from 0800-1200. $ 135 one-week classes, 5 hours, 5 days from 0800-1300. $ 165 one-week classes, 6 hours, 5 days from 0800-1200 and 1400-1600 or 1600-1800. $ 175 one-week for both (not each), if you and a friend shared a teacher 4 hours, 5 days. $90 one-week classes, 4 hours, 5 days, 1300-1700.

Antigua Parroquia San Sebastian (ruins)

Address: H777+P9 Antigua, Guatelmala on Plazuela San Sebastian

Church and Convent of Our Lady of La Merced

Address: 1a Calle Poniente & 6a Avenida Norte, Antigua, Guatemala
Hours: Church, 0830-1745, Convent, 0830-1200 and 1400-1745
Admission: Adults, Q40 (about $5.00 USD)

Convento Capuchinas

Address: Av Norte at 2 Calle Oriente 2, Centro, Antigua, Guatemala
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Adults, national Q5 (about 60 cents USD), Adults, foreign, Q40 (about $5.00)

Puerta Once Antigua (Door Eleven)

https://puertaonce.com/
Address: Antigua1a Calle Poniente, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Hours: 1200-2300, daily

El Diario de Guatemala SEIS

DIA SEIS

Sunday mornings are for sleeping in.

One would think, right?

Then why were my eyes wide open at 5:30 a.m.?

So…I edited pictures, checked Facebook, studied Spanish (of course), cooked a big breakfast (that I ate in bed), watched television and listened to the neighbor’s (very loud) conversations…

Finally, I just got up and dressed for the day. The sun was shining and the sky a brilliant blue…so perfect, in fact, that it was the first day I was able to wear shorts.
As I walked out of my apartment, I ran into a young man that I had met while touring my new school’s facilities. He was from Brighton, England and he was very impressed that I actually knew where his hometown was located. I was disappointed to find that he had decided to go with another school, but as I had learned, everyone has to find the right fit! Jack and I parted ways and I headed to the restaurant that I had had lunch on my first day, El Troccoli…their caprese panini was calling my name!

From my vantage point at the table near the window, I marveled at how alive the streets were. People were everywhere! It was obvious, even more so, when I made it down to the Plaza Mayor and from the traffic, that visitors descend on the city during the weekends in droves!

There was a church that I did not have the opportunity to visit two years ago. The Capilla Nuestra Senora de Belen. It’s in the southwestern part of the city and gave me the opportunity for some exercise.

The church sits in a small park and although I found it to be closed, I was still impressed with its architectural elements on the church’s and chapel’s facades.
A couple of blocks away, I stumbled upon Iglesia Escuela de Cristo. Standing in the park across the street, I watched the patrons exit after mass. Noting that I was wearing shorts, I didn’t feel comfortable entering boldly. I hung near the doors and tried to slide in unnoticed, but one of the ushers took his place a few feet away, saying “Adios” to everyone. Finally, I gathered the courage to ask him to if it were okay to take one photo…thank goodness he said yes! I later learned that there is a beautiful convent is on the premises (not open to the public) and this is the church where the wake was held for the Hermano Pedro, Central America’s only saint. For those familiar with Antigua’s architecture, it should look familiar as it was designed by architect Diego de Porres, who designed the Fountain of the Sirens in the Plaza Mayor and other buildings throughout the city.

My next stop was the Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande. We had visited this beautiful church during our last trip and we loved that there are many food and craft vendors within the church grounds. Although the church was closed, I was able to visit the tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro and then made an interesting discovery. What we had missed during our first visit because of the massive crowds on the premises for Semana Santa, was the Museo de Santo Hermano Pedro and ruins. The museum was extremely interesting as were the grounds and ruins. I know that most people might think that the ruins within the city appear to be similar, but I love investigating the uniqueness of each.

*The Museum of Santo Hermano Pedro at Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande*

*The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande*

Continuing my explorations of the city, I headed in the direction of the Museum of Semana Santa. Wouldn’t you know it’s open one day a month and that day had just passed?

I decided then to make my way toward Casa Santo Domingo passing the ruins of Iglesia de la Concepcion. Near the city’s entrance, I came upon a granizadas cart. Most people would be afraid to eat or drink things from the street in another country, but it sounded so good at the moment as I was sweating profusely, I decided to get one of the icy treats. Almost like a snow cone, the granizada was topped with pineapple and la lechera, sweetened condensed milk. It was extremely refreshing and after sitting on a bench in the shade, I was ready to go to my next stop.

Casa Santa Domingo is a hotel in Antigua, but it also contains a couple of museums and ancient ruins. It was a good thing I was there during that time of day and in the museums because the skies opened up and gave the city a good washing!

Finally, with aching feet, I was hobbling back to my apartment when I came upon the Plaza Mayor, once again. The park was still bustling and I decided that I might have the strength in me for one more landmark. The 16th century Antigua Guatemala Cathedral. These ruins and church hold a special place in my heart as it was the first thing that my son and I encountered when we arrived two years ago. It was the end of the day and there weren’t many people inside of the cathedral ruins, so I was able to get some beautiful photographs and then say a prayer inside the church.

I then decided that I had seen so much more that I had planned for the day and it was definitely time to take an Aleve, have dinner and put my feet up.

I was here for school, first and foremost, but how can you not want to see everything that this beautiful colonial city is known for?

What I learned: Wear good shoes when traversing the city!

Photo of the day: Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins

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Casa Troccoli

https://quepasa.gt/casa-troccoli-antigua-guatemala-2/
Address: 5a Avenida Norte, Antigua, Guatemala
Hours: 0900-2100, daily

Iglesia de Belen

https://cvc.cervantes.es/artes/ciudades_patrimonio/antigua/paseo/convento_belen.htm
Address: Parque de Belen, Antigua, Guatemala
Hours: Unknown
Admission: free

Iglesia Escuela de Cristo

https://www.okantigua.com/escuela-de-cristo-antigua-guatemala/
Address: 9a Calle Oriente, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Hours: unknown
Admission: free

Santuario San Francisco el Grande and Museo del Hermano Pedro

https://www.guatevalley.com/que-visitar/museo-del-santo-hermano-pedro-la-antigua-guatemala-sacatepequez
Address: 7a Calle Oriente, Antigua, Guatemala
Hours: Museum and ruins, 0900-1200 and 1300-1700, daily. (Church hours may vary)
Admission: Adults, Q7, Children, Q2 (not verified)

Casa Santo Domingo

https://www.casasantodomingo.com.gt/
Address: 3a Calle Oriente 28, Centro Histórico, Antigua, Guatemala 03001
Hours: Museum hours, Monday to Saturday, 0900-1800, Sunday, 1100-1800
Admission: Adults, foreign, Q40 (about $5.00 USD)

Catedral San Jose

https://www.guatevalley.com/que-visitar/ruinas-y-catedral-de-san-jose-la-antigua-guatemala-sacatepequez
Address: 5a alle Oriente 5, Antigua, Guatemala
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Church, free. Ruins, Adults, national, Q5 (about 65 cents USD), Adults, foreign, Q20 (about $2.50 USD)

El Diario de Guatemala CINCO

DIA CINCO

When making plans for this trip, my original thought was to take Spanish lessons at one of the towns of Lake Atitlan.

But which one?

I didn’t know anything about the area except that I thought it would be wonderful to study Spanish in the mornings, looking out over the beautiful waters and the volcanoes that surround them, and spending the afternoons lounging in the sun and swimming.

Ultimately, I decided that because I knew the city of Antigua so well and that the schools here were plentiful, it would be a better place for me.

I did want to see Lake Atitlan though, so while I was here, I made plans for a visit. Two years ago, my son and I had inquired about a tour, however, we were informed that it was a very long day, leaving early in the morning and returning in the evening. There were so many things on that trip that we wanted to see and do in the city of Antigua that we decided to forgo that idea.

Conveniently, this time, a tour agency was right next-door to my Airbnb. After lunch a few days ago, I wandered in and booked my tour. Although there was an option to spend the night, I decided that since my accommodations were already booked and paid for in Antigua, I would suffer through the long day. It was all set.

So at 5:30 in the morning, I was standing in front of my apartment, in the dark, waiting for my pick up not knowing if it was a van, a bus or lord knows, a motorcycle (anyone remember Vietnam?). There were eight of us in the van and we headed outside of the city. I assumed that we were all going on the same tour yet after a while, it became apparent that some of this group was heading to Mexico. Wondering how this was all going to pan out, we suddenly had to pull over on the side of the highway when one of the girls started to feel carsick and had a full-blown panic attack. My flight attendant training kicked in and I helped her to calm down and breathe. It took some doing but we finally got her back into the van and this was when I found out who was heading to Mexico…yes, she was one of those making a run for the border! If she couldn’t make a 2-hour van ride, how the heck was she going to make it to Mexico?

Well, it wasn’t my problem anymore after we made the drop off. There were three of us going on the tour and I was quite relieved for the small number, including two brothers from Fort Collins, Colorado.

We were dropped off in the middle of the town of Panajachel and told that our guide would meet us in half an hour. I took this time to walk around and explore a bit. The vendors were all beginning to set up and as I got to the lakefront, I had the most magnificent vista all to myself!

*View of Lake Atitlan from* *Panajachel*

*Views of Lake Atitlan from* *Panajachel*

At nine o’clock on the dot, we met our guide, Nicolas, and boarded a boat bound for the opposite end of the lake. The water was so calm, it shown like glass reflecting the four volcanoes that surround the lake.

After a twenty-minute ride, we arrived at the town of San Juan de Laguna. It was an uphill climb into the town and along the way, we stopped at chocolate and weaving demonstrations and a beekeeping farm. It was fascinating to see the tiny Mayan bees and sample some of their tasty honey. It was also interesting to see how the locals were spending their Saturday and the preparations for a local carnival.

*San Juan de Laguna* *Chocolate Factory*

*San Juan de Laguna* *Weaving and Fabric Demonstration*

Our next stop was San Pedro de Laguna. Described to us by our guide as a “hippie town”, we made the trek to the colorful church and the local market, witnessing the beautiful murals that graced the walls of businesses and homes. The largest of the three towns, it was full of activity.

Our third stop was Nicolas’ hometown, Santiago. After a typical lunch, we met a lady who posed for us and demonstrated how she dons the cultural headdress that she is known for. Walking through the large market, each of us made different purchases…clothes, paintings, coffee. If you want to shop, this is the place!

Jumping back into the boat, we found the weather to be quite different than during the morning. Dark clouds were moving in obscuring the volcanoes and we encountered rough waters as we made our way across the lake. When we finally arrived in Panajachel, it was nearing the time to meet our van for the long trip back to Antigua.

Needless to say, that night when I arrived back at my apartment, I had no energy for anything other than a quick dinner and bed.

As tired as I was though, it was worth every moment. It was a day filled with adventure, education, culture, new friends, a lake and a volcano or two. What more could anyone ask for?

What I learned: 10-hour bus rides are no fun if you are prone to carsickness and panic attacks.

Photo of the day: Beautiful Lake Atitlan

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Lake Atitlan

https://www.atitlan.com

El Diario de Guatemala CUATRO

DIA CUATRO

Figuring out how to cook scrambled eggs in the microwave saved me about twenty minutes this morning. Why have I never figured this out before?

Because of my discovery, I was actually able to leisurely walk to school this morning.
I must admit, I wasn’t eager to begin my day in the classroom. I felt a bit frustrated even with the studying I had done the night before. But I was here to learn and I was going to try my hardest!

The school day began very well and I had some “Aha!” moments when I understood some forms of the verbs I was studying. I felt like I was finally getting somewhere! After my break, I returned to the table with my teacher. Like yesterday, I felt like we lost a bit of steam. On this day, I think she misinterpreted some things I told her and I began to feel like she was getting frustrated with me which, in turn, was making me frustrated. Next thing you know, she had me playing Scrabble in Spanish. Now, I suck at Scrabble in English and I pulled some bad tiles. I couldn’t even make words in English, much less in Spanish and she made me play for an hour until class was finished. Enough said.

Maybe this wasn’t the best fit after all. She was a lovely person and I enjoyed our interactions, but I was distracted by the other student and I noticed that she was spending a lot of time listening to his lesson.

During lunchtime in my apartment, I glanced out of my window at the door across the street.

Academia de Antiguena. This had been my second choice of schools.
Putting aside my quesadillas, I walked over and rang the bell. Speaking with the director, I explained my situation, was given a tour of both facilities and offered one of only two spots available for the following week.

Maybe I made the right decision…maybe not, but school is even closer, it’s a lot cheaper and has better facilities. I think that all of those are positives.

Once that was done, it was time to get my culture of the day. One of my favorite places I visited a couple of years ago was the Convento de Recoleccion. This convent and basilica were destroyed during the earthquake of 1773. The ceiling of the Basilica collapsed into the church, leaving the walls standing. Visitors are allowed to enter the remains of the basilica and make their way around the giant, boulder-like remains. It makes for some amazing photos! Connected to the basilica is the remains of the convent. It contains a few open courtyards flanked by many rooms. With not so many visitors in the city, I had the place to myself…what a peaceful afternoon!

What I learned today: Volcano Fuego is erupting nearby and there was an earthquake last Sunday. Sometimes the universe wants you to “shake it up”.

Photo of the day: Convento de Recoleccion

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Convento de Recoleccion

Address: 1a Calle Poniente and Avenida de la Recoleccion
Hours: 0900-1700
Admission: Adults, foreign, 40Q (about 5.50 USD)

El Diario de Guatemala TRES

DIA TRES

Today I woke up eager to return to my classes and show off my stuff! I was feeling pretty good about yesterday!

I guess the day had other plans for me. First of all, my stove top wouldn’t heat up my pan and it took me about 20 minutes to cook my eggs, causing me to have to run to school, sans mask, getting a few dirty looks and making me arrive about a minute late. One minute late doesn’t sound so bad to most people but the flight attendant in me was freaking out…this “plane” was late and I hate making anyone wait.

My lessons began and I started out telling Heydi about my day yesterday. I was able to describe in Spanish, in pretty good detail about my trip to San Jeronimo, the supermarket, what I bought and what I had for dinner as well as what I watched on Netflix.

After this, she insisted on trying to teach me some verbs I didn’t know. The nerve! These verbs had very different endings and I was so confused. This led me to continually make simple mistakes…mistakes on things I actually knew which was completely frustrating!

She gave me homework and told me that I really need to study. Of course, I knew that I was going to have to study, but I just felt very degraded after class.
I returned to my Airbnb, made some mini quesadillas and eyed my cerveza…in that moment I felt like I really could use a beer! Later. There were things to see in the city!

The sun was out and it was warmer than usual, so I decided that I needed a little field trip and some exercise. Walking toward the north of the city, I began the climb to the top of Cerro de la Cruz, the hill that overlooks the city and sports a large cross. A few hundred steps later, I was sitting on the wall, gazing over the city and praying that the clouds would part a little more so that I could see the top of the Volcan de Agua, the volcano that towers over the area.

While gazing over the city, I had spotted the ruins of the convent, Santa Maria Teresa De Jesus and decided that this would be my next destination. As I headed down the hill, I first stopped at the remains of the Church of Candelaria, captured a few photos and then walked to the convent. It had been one of the first ruins that my son, Ian, and I had visited two years ago and we had enjoyed its beautiful cloister and fountain. I spent some time meandering through its many rooms and was just about to leave when the gentleman who sold me my ticket asked me a question (in Spanish).

“Did you see the crypt and the basilica?”

Um, no.

He showed me on the map, adjacent to the door, the layout of the building and pointing to a set of stairs in a room, that I had not entered as I thought it to be a storage room.

I followed his directions and amazingly, there was a set of steps leading down into a room which also led to the ruins of the basilica. In the far corner, there was also a set of stairs leading to the old crypt.

There was nothing much in the crypt, but as I headed back up and into the basilica, I was simply amazed. Not just because you could still see much of the workmanship being restored, but because it is baffling that visitors are allowed in this area of construction…scaffolding, tools, bags of cement and goodness knows what else filled the space. In the United States, this would have been condemned and no one allowed near, much less in the building. Despite the mess, it was wonderful to see this space up close, as I had only spied it from the street, behind the gate.

Thanking the gentleman, we exchanged pleasantries (in Spanish, of course) and I explained that I was in Antigua for Spanish school. He asked how long I had been there and I said it was my second day. He told me I was very smart for learning that much in just two days! Lol! I got a good laugh out of that but I went on letting him believe I was muy inteligente!

Continuing my explorations, I admired the architecture of the area and the unique doors and doorknockers and then headed over to the El Carmen market, pausing to snap a few photos of the ruins of El Carmen church next door.

I had vowed not to buy anything early in my trip, but next thing you know I was walking out with a table runner. Okay, I am a bit of a sucker sometimes…it was Father’s Day in Guatemala, after all, and he hadn’t had a sale all day!

As I exited the market, I heard a large boom! Praying it wasn’t one of the nearby volcanoes, I realized that I was feeling a few raindrops!

Time to go home.

What do you do when it’s pouring outside?

Have happy hour!

That was a good ending to the day that didn’t start so well!

What I learned: There are many hidden treasures in Guatemala, you just have to talk to the right person, in the right language, to find them!

Photo of the day: The Cloister of Convento Santa Teresa de Jesus

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Cerro de La Cruz

Address: Al final de la 1ª Avenida Norte, Antigua, Guatemala 03001
Hours: 0700-1800, daily
Admission: free

Convento Santa Teresa De Jesus

Address: 1era calle Oriente y 4a Avenida sur. Antigua Guatemala
Hours: 0800-1700, daily
Admission: Q40 (about $5.50 US)

Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen

Address: Avenida 3ra, 3ra Calle Oriente, Antigua 03001
Hours: 0800-2000, daily

El Diario de Guatemala DOS

DIA DOS

Eyes open early…it’s the first day of Spanish school in Antigua, Guatemala!

It has been many years since I have had a first day of school!

As I took to the streets, headed towards my first day of classes, it dawned on me that I had not had a proper breakfast. The little convenience store next to my hotel wasn’t open (or bored, see Day 1) until eight, so I figured I would just have to tough it out until lunchtime.

Walking along 5a Avenida Norte, I passed under the beautiful Santa Catalina Arch (I couldn’t help myself for taking this route) and cut through the park at Iglesia de La Merced. Glancing at my watch, I realized that I had more than a few minutes to spare and lo and behold, there was a little bakery just across the street from my school.

Two delicious mini ham and cheese croissants and a Diet Coke filled the void but I realized with all these tortillas and pan readily available, I might have to seriously exercise in the afternoons!

A few minutes prior to eight (I definitely did not want to be late on my first day), I quickly snapped a photo at the entrance…why did I feel like my children when I used to make them do their obligatory first day photo on our front porch? Should I have brought a sign for the occasion? First Day, Spanish School, Antigua, Guatemala, June 2021. The locals would surely have thought I was a bit loco!

It was time for my day to begin.

Greeted by the owner of the school, business was on the forefront, having to settle up for this week’s lessons and my transportation to Antigua. A short dark-haired woman in her thirties then appeared.

Heydi, my teacher.

Mi maestra.

The person who was going to help me gain fluency in Spanish and not make fun of me when I mispronounced words and phrases.

The Holy Grail!

Taking a seat at a table in the courtyard, I glanced around. This was definitely not what I had pictured for a classroom. It was very rustic…plastic tables and chairs, birds flying around and a motorcycle parked inside! Well, I wasn’t here for a spa day! All we needed was a place to learn and I could hear two other students and their instructors just around the corner.

Mucho gusto! De donde eres?

And that’s how it began. Heidy spoke slowly and clearly and I actually realized how much I already knew from my past year’s studies. I understood almost everything she asked me and was able to respond, with the occasional stumble, of course. Before I realized, it was time for our half hour break.

The beauty of Antigua is that there are countless churches, convents, monasteries and ruins throughout the city. While I had planned to visit a different place each afternoon, it dawned on me that I was just next door to the magnificent La Merced. If I wanted, I could wander over during my break and talk to God (and perhaps pray for fluency). Today, I just made it as far as the steps. I talked to my friend, Kathie, on the phone instead.

The last hour and a half passed quickly and I was bidding Heydi, “Hasta Manana”. This phrase that English speakers casually use takes on a whole new meaning when you really have to see the person the next morning. I was now committed!

After returning to my hotel, gathering my belongings and checking out, I headed back in the direction of La Merced, this time to check into my Airbnb.
While walking along the streets of Antigua, the sidewalks are lined with colorful walls, marked with the occasional window, heavy wooden door, shop and restaurant.

I am always intrigued by what lies behind these walls…usually quaint courtyards and immaculate homes. After being greeted by Esperanza, the caretaker, what I was expecting was exactly what I found. A stone corridor, decorated with seating and Guatemalan artwork led to a small, grassy, art-filled courtyard. My unit was the first one we came to and as I walked in, I realized it was exactly as I had seen it pictured. An airy kitchen was on the first floor and a spiral staircase on the right, led me upstairs to my bedroom and sitting area.

While I was intrigued with the spiral staircase, it dawned on me that getting my suitcases up to the bedroom was going be a bit of a challenge! Definitely one step at a time!

It didn’t take long to unpack and make a quick grocery list.

Heading out, I realized that I my route was going to take me next to the ruins of San Jeronimo church. While planning my trip, I had decided early on that my afternoons would be spent in the city seeing the many sights. Why not begin today? The groceries could wait while I indulged in Guatemalan culture.

The site of San Jeronimo is not a large one, but one I had remembered fondly from my first visit. I wandered through each room and the courtyard, reveling in the knowledge that I did not have to rush. I could take my time and see and photograph things here and each afternoon, making the most of my time. Heck, I could even come back…what a novel idea!

Finally, I walked up the tree lined street toward La Bodegona, the supermarket. Paper towels, toilet paper, water, beer, diet cola…these were easy. But what could I buy for lunch or the occasional dinner? Trying to make these decisions was a bit tough when you are not familiar with some of the products. Eventually, I settled on eggs, tortillas, cheese, tomatoes and chips. Basic. Breakfast and lunch I could handle, dinner would be at one of the countless restaurants in the city!
Finally home and exhausted, I put my goods away and plopped down on the couch. Yes, it was going to be a Netflix and pizza kind of night!

What I learned: My waist is going to expand with all of these croissants and tortillas!

Photo of the day: Lilies of San Jeronimo

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San Jeronimo Church

Address: Corner of 1a Calle Poniente and Alameda de Santa Lucia, Antigua, Guatemala
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: 40Q (about $5.50 US)

El Diario de Guatemala UNO

EL DIA UNO

As I left home this morning, I was thinking that I was crazy for thinking that going to school in another country to learn another language at my age was a good idea. To say the least, I was extremely nervous. Although I had been to Guatemala on vacation with my son a couple of years ago and I felt very comfortable there, there are so many things that go through your mind.

What if I did not like the school or my teacher? What if I did not like being there for more than a few days? What if I got sick while I was on my own?

Nevertheless, I have learned over the years that I need to put myself into uncomfortable situations. In the end, it all works out and I’ll tell anyone who will listen about my wonderful experiences!

So, I made my way through security and to my gate in Richmond trying not to think about anything other than getting there. After landing in Atlanta, I boarded my flight to Guatemala City, arriving 3 1/2 hours later. The airport was nowhere near as crowded as was the first time we visited. I would imagine that this is due to Covid restrictions and people not traveling as much as they have in the past. Clearing customs and immigration, it then took me only a couple of minutes to find my driver and we were soon on our way to Antigua.

Although I have studied a great deal over the past year, it’s quite difficult to sit in a car for an hour and try to make conversation with someone who is fluent in the language you aren’t completely familiar with. Realizing that I needed a bit of help, I turned on my phone and utilized my translation app and I think Senor Sergio really appreciated my efforts! Before long, I recognized the entrance to the beautiful city that was to be my home for the next two weeks and I was being dropped off at my hotel.

After settling in, I headed out to the cobblestone streets searching for a restaurant for my lunch. Devouring a Caprese panini and fries I realized that it actually was much later for me with the time difference and I probably wouldn’t be very hungry later. I then continued on Avenida 5a Norte and passed thru the Santa Catalina Arch. Spotting Iglesia de La Merced, one of Antigua’s famed churches up ahead, I began to look for my school which was located nearby. Discovering the doorway and entrance, I breathed a sigh of relief knowing that I wouldn’t have to spend precious time in the morning locating it. The second thing on my agenda was finding the place that was to be my home starting the next day. That didn’t take very long either as my Airbnb was located only a block away…talk about picking the right location!!!

I was so excited to be back in the city and wanted to stop and see everything that I remembered, however I decided to head back to my hotel to use the pool since the sun was trying to sneak a peek out of the cloudy skies…rainy season, you know.

A little colder than I expected, I didn’t last very long and headed back into my room for a much-needed nap. I was exhausted but freshened up and headed to a restaurant that my son and I had enjoyed on a couple of occasions. A few beers and some fish tacos and I was finally ready to get some sleep so that I would be ready for my first day of school!

What I learned today: Know the correct verb…asking the convenience store owner what time the shop is bored in the morning is quite confusing, however quite comical! Abburido and abierto are two very different words!!! Truly a mistake I will never make again!

Picture of the day: Hello Antigua!

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Casa del Parque Hotel

https://www.hotelcasadelparque.com/
Address: 4th Ave North #5, Antigua, Guatemala, 03001

Santa Catalina Arch

Address: 5a Avenida Norte 28, Antigua, Guatemala

The Hall and the Fossils

Many years ago, while some work was being completed on our house, the electrician, noting my three very active boys, offered up a recommendation.

No, it’s not what you’re thinking…not chandeliers or track lighting…

He suggested that I take my boys fossil hunting!

Yes, fossil hunting!

Having a boy of his own, he was fully aware of the challenges of finding things to keep children occupied. Describing a place that he often took his son, he detailed all of the shark teeth and fossilized items they found on their visits. About an hour and a half away, located on the Potomac River in the northern neck of Virginia, he chronicled the property as the former home of Confederate Robert E. Lee, an historic estate open to visitors, although it was the area at the rear of the property, along the waterway that he wanted us to experience.

A few days later, I loaded the boys in the car and made that trip. We found dozens of ancient shark teeth, buried in the sandy banks, in that particular location and also in nearby Westmoreland State Park. Merely gazing at Lee’s former home as we drove by, I never gave the thought of visiting the stately manor much credence.

Years passed and the bags of shark teeth sat in a container on my kitchen countertop. As the restrictions from Covid lingered, I found myself away from work and desperately searching for things to occupy myself and fulfill my wanderlust desires. While cleaning the kitchen one day, I came upon one of those bags and thought about that sunny, fall day when we dug in the sand and carefully sifted it in hopes of discovering some ancient treasures. I remembered passing the Lee estate and decided to do an internet search to see if it was open to visitors. Certainly, I could stand to feel like a tourist again and maybe even do a little sand sifting!

On a mid-January day, my husband and I headed out to Montross, Virginia. Unseasonably warm and sunny, it was the perfect day to go sight-seeing. Upon our arrival, we ventured into the Visitor’s Center, paid our admission, collected our audio guide and wandered through the adjacent exhibit which gave an overview of the historical significance of the site as well its timeline.

Leaving the center, we then made our way down a long walkway toward the “Great House”.

Built by Thomas Lee in 1738, this plantation remained in the Lee family for four generations that helped to define our nation. While most people are aware that Thomas Jefferson penned the Declaration of Independence, many don’t know the names of the signers, aside from Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, John Adams and John Hancock. In fact, Richard Henry Lee and Francis Lightfoot Lee, both born at Stratford Hall, were two of fifty-six endorsers during 1776.

Years later, the birth of Robert Edward Lee, in 1807, was documented in the plantation journals. This young man called Stratford Hall his home until leaving to serve as General-in-Chief of the Confederate States Army during the American Civil War from 1861 until 1865.

Designated as a National Historic Landmark in 1960, the property is under the care of the National Park Service and the United States Department of the Interior. The grounds are impeccably kept and the home is proportionately constructed and in exemplary condition.

We first made our way through both levels of the Great House, examining the period furniture, original colonial pine floors, brick masonry and oil paintings. The home is elegantly furnished and exhibits the wealth of the Lee family during the time.

Heading outside, we analyzed the home’s meritorious brick exterior, acknowledging the skillful craftsmanship, before taking to task the other structures located on the 2,000 acre property…the Overseer’s work place, the Payne cabin (home of the enslaved Payne family and the grave marker of “Uncle Wes” William Westley Payne), the spring house, the gardens, the northeast out-building, the gardener’s cottage, the burial vault, the smokehouse, the kitchen, the slave quarters, the southwest out-building and the coach house and stables. The property is vast, including marked nature trails, so allow a few hours see everything.

*The Grave of “Uncle Wes” William Westley Payne*

Since we still had a bit of time remaining before the winter sun slide beyond the horizon, we headed down to the beach area. Before we ditched our shoes for our coastal explorations, we investigated the grist mill with its paddle wheel and the lake.

Finally, it was time to see if I would have any luck with our specimen search. We had the beach to ourselves and we thoroughly combed the area and dug through the sand as much as my cold fingers could stand.

Nothing.

Oh well, maybe I just don’t have the patience that I used to.

Leaving empty-handed, we made a quick stop at the slave cemetery. Sadly, we did not even have some shells to leave on the marker in remembrance of those who served the Lee family faithfully.

Although it was the perfect day for sightseeing, obviously it wasn’t the perfect day for fossil hunting.

The boys will simply have to join me next time!

Stratford Hall

https://www.stratfordhall.org/
Address: 483 Great House Rd, Stratford, Virginia 22558-0001
Hours: 1000-1700, Wednesday through Sunday. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Admission: Adults (ages 14+), $12.00, Children (ages 6-13), $5.00, Children (under 5), free. Grounds Pass (access to the hiking trails, public beach area, gardens, public grounds, Visitor Center, and Gift Shop only), Adults, $8.00, Children, $5.00.