For the past thirty years, I have worked for an airline. Anything flight-related captures my interest, but I do love reading or learning about travel in the past. Seeing photographs of how passengers treated traveling by plane with great reverence, it of utmost interest. Many years ago, my airline merged with the now defunct Pan American World Airways. Tragically, with the fall of this great company, was also the fall of the way people traveled in style. Instead of suits, dresses and Louis Vuitton luggage, you see travelers in hair rollers, pajamas and trash bags.
When I see anything that refers to Pan Am, I am instantly intrigued. My desire to revisit the golden age of flying transcends above all, so when my husband and I were in Key West and enroute to the Hemingway House and I spotted First Flight, I had to stop and check it out.
Located on Whitehead Street, First Flight, claims to be the birthplace of Pan American World Airways. In this building, the first airline tickets were sold in 1927 for what was to become the principal and largest international airline in the United States.
With its inception as an air mail and passenger service which operated between Key West and Havana, Cuba, it became known as the airline that shaped the international airline industry.
Now a restaurant and brewery which features a beautiful garden dining area under a tree-top canopy and an interior filled with Pan Am memorabilia and an indoor-outdoor bar made from an airplane wing. You can also visit the Mercantile for airline themed gifts and souvenirs.
Sound amazing?
I think so and I wish that I would have been able to see and experience it. But…after reading the placard outside the bar and photographing the building, it was time to move on as it was the middle of the day and much too early to drink or eat!
Hoping to come back later in our trip, we never did but it is on my list for my next visit to Key West.
First class caviar and service? You bet!
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For some, it’s hard to envision what life might have been like 100 years ago.
Thankfully, there are some architectural landmarks around the country that have been lovingly preserved, so that we might be able to do so.
Some very good ones are nearby, in my hometown, Glen Allen.
Built in the 1920s, the Courtney Road gas station stands proudly on Mountain Road in Glen Allen, Virginia, a small town on the west end of Richmond. A “canopy style” station, which originated in 1916 by Standard Oil of Ohio for the transportation industry, it was owned by the Barlow family during a time of growth in the United States car manufacturing and road improvements. Sinclair gasoline and oil products were sold in the full-service station and customers could rely on prompt service by gas station attendants who, in addition to filling the tanks, cleaned windshields, checked the tires and “looked” under the hood.
Though the Courtney Road Station is not open to visitors except during special occasions or by appointment, you can park in the adjacent lot, walk under the canopy and inspect the old pumps.
Across Mountain Road, you can find Meadow Farm Museum, Crump Park and RF&P Park.
RF&P Park (within Crump Park) is home to the Glen Allen Athletic Association and the site of countless baseball, softball and football games on pristine, well-manicured fields. Many a weekend is spent here watching our children run the bases and score touchdowns. The real all-stars of the park, however, are actually “parked” near the fields.
Four restored Richmond, Fredericksburg & Potomac Railroad train cars sit proudly near the fields. At the baseball fields, the cars consists of a caboose, a steel coach and a postal car. A box car can be spotted at the softball fields.
These cars ran from Richmond to Washington D.C. on 113 miles of track (the shortest in the nation) which linked the North and South. You can climb onto the cars, inspect them closely and peer into the windows, however, the interiors are locked. They are the perfect location for photo ops for train lovers and those interested in Virginia’s historic transportation.
Also within Crump Park lies Meadow Farm Museum. Meadow Farm dates back to 1713, when Richard Baker and William Sheppard were granted 400 acres of property in Henrico county. In 1800, Meadow Farm was the site of an unsuccessful slave uprising which became known as Gabriel’s Rebellion and ten years, later, the present farmhouse was constructed by Mosby Sheppard. His son, Dr. John Mosby Sheppard, expanded the farm and passed it down to his grandson Major General Sheppard Crump, a veteran of World War I and Adjutant General of Virginia from 1955 to 1960. His wife, Elizabeth Adam Crump, was one of the first women in Virginia to receive a driver’s license and vote in public elections. In 1975, Elizabeth Adam Crump donated Meadow Farm to Henrico Country in memory of her late husband which was opened to the public in 1981.
Today, Meadow Farm Museum’s grounds are open to the public and consist of the farm house, a blacksmith forge and an orientation center. Costumed tour guides and staff present programs and exhibits on life during the farm’s heyday and on select weekends, demonstrations of the “life on the farm” take place in the farmhouse, barn, doctor’s office, blacksmith forge, kitchen, fields and pastures. Some of these programs include the annual Sheep Shearing event, Sheep to Shawl. It is the perfect place to take children to see many farm animals including chickens, turkeys, hogs, cows, horses and goats.
After visiting Meadow Farm Museum, you can enjoy Crump Park’s walking paths, ponds and playgrounds.
A little further down Mountain Road, there is another historic structure; the remains of Forest Lodge, which was built in the early 1880s by John Cussons. Cussons, an Englishman who served as a scout and lieutenant in the Confederate army and was captured in Gettysburg, returned to Glen Allen after the war and married Susan Sheppard Allen, the sister of Dr. John Sheppard of Meadow Farm and the widow of Benjamin Allen, for whom Glen Allen was named. He built the lodge as a resort along the RF&P Railroad where it intersected with Mountain Road. With 125 rooms and six stories, the luxurious resort was surrounded by a one thousand acre park which included trails, lakes and wild game.
Upon John Cussons death in 1912, the property exchanged hands multiple times until half of it was torn down. Used as office space and apartments, it was demolished in 1992. Today, you can park just off of Mountain Road and visit what is left of the historic lodge. The tower and surrounding columns are original elements from the Forest Lodge that were salvaged during its razing.
I have driven by some of these places often, visited on field trips and even taken my children’s prom and senior pictures at these locations. It is strange how I would probably go out of my way in another locale to seek out these historic structures and remains, yet, I really never took much time to stop and appreciate them.
Today, I finally did…in good ole’ Glen Allen.
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Courtney Road Station
Address: 3401 Mountain Road, Henrico, Virginia 23060
Hours: 24 hours, daily for outside viewing. By appointment only for interior visits.
Admission: free
RF&P Park
Address: 3400 Mountain Road, Glen Allen, Virginia 23060
Hours: Grounds open daily.
Admission: free
Crump Park
Address: 3400 Mountain Road, Glen Allen, Virginia 23060
Hours: dawn to dusk
Admission: free
Meadow Farm Museum
Address: 3400 Mountain Road, Glen Allen, Virginia 23060
Hours: Grounds are open daily from dawn to dusk. Tours of the farmhouse begin at 1300 and the last tour is held at 1530.
Admission: free
Forest Lodge
Address: Mountain Road & Old Washington Highway, Glen Allen, VA 23060
Hours: Interior not open to the public. Grounds open 24 hours, daily.
Studying the Civil War, we learned about both the Confederate and Union generals, however, one in particular, was was always referred to as “Stonewall”.
His full name was Thomas Jonathon Jackson.
While driving back from Gettysburg, my mind was filled with the landmarks I had seen and my thoughts on what had happened during that three day battle in 1863. Many soldiers and commanding officers gave their lives but no focus was ever put upon what happened to those who survived or those who lost their lives in the days leading up to this historic battle.
As I passed near Fredericksburg, a sign pointing to the “Stonewall” Jackson Death Site caught my eye. There was still a few hours of daylight remaining.
Thomas Jonathon “Stonewall” Jackson was born in Clarksburg in West Virginia. He was received training at the U.S. Military Academy at West Point and was recognized as a hero in the Mexican War. Continuing his military experience at Virginia Military Institute as an instructor, he was made a brigadier general at the first major battle of the Civil War near Manassas, Virginia. It was during that battle that General Bernard E. Bee proclaimed, “There is Jackson standing like a stone wall”.
Well known for his military feats by both the North and the South, he was mistakenly shot by his own men during the Battle of Chancellorsville on May 2, 1863. Though the bullet only caused his wounding, he was unable to continue his military duties until after recuperating sufficiently. Confederate General Robert E. Lee secured a safe place behind enemy lines in Guinea Station on Thomas C. Chandler’s seven hundred and forty acre plantation, Fairfield.
Though he was welcomed into the family’s home, Jackson’s doctor and staff officers decided to place him in one of the quiet outbuildings which acted as an office of sorts. After sufficient time had passed, Jackson would board a train and travel to Richmond, Virginia for additional medical care.
The general was accompanied during his stay by his doctor’s and staff officers and attempted to overcome his injuries which were amplified by the amputation of his twice wounded left arm. Though his spirits were lifted by the arrival of his wife, Mary Anna, and baby daughter, Julia, he soon succumbed to a bout of pneumonia, crying out in his delirium, “Order A.P. Hill to prepare for action! Pass the infantry to the front rapidly! Tell Major Hanks…”. The last part of this sentence went unfinished but as a smile spread across his face, he said quietly, “Let us cross over the river, and rest under the shade of the trees.” He then passed away.
Driving through the countryside, I soon found the landmark’s location down a long drive, bordered by railroad tracks. The office is the only remaining structure from the Chandler’s plantation as sometime after the Civil War, the main house was burned during a major fire.
The office was established as a historic shrine in the 1920s, it was renovated then and again in the 1960s. The National Park service added some other pieces from the era to the ones used during Jackson’s stay to recreate the scene of his last days.
The site is part of the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park so I expected it to be well maintained like the battlefields there. I found, however, long grasses surrounding the building and felt as if it is a site not well visited. I was able to make my way down a brick path to get closer to the structure and a sign in the window gave an overview of his final days.
Just beyond the office was a marker showing the former location of the Chandler house and near the parking lot is a gravestone. Though Stonewall Jackson’s arm was buried in the Lacy Cemetery in Chancellorsville, Virginia, where is was amputated, his body was buried in his hometown of Lexington, Virginia. This gravestone merely marks the spot where he died.
Though not a widely known landmark, if you are a Civil War buff, make sure to seek this out during your visits to the local battlefields and historical landmarks. Not a lot to see, but definitely part of the overall timeline of the war and the overall experience.
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Address: 12019 Stonewall Jackson Road, Woodford, VA 22580
Hours: Grounds open from sunrise to sunset. Currently most public buildings in the National Park System are closed due to Covid restrictions.
Admission: free
Getting There: Take Rte. 2 south from Fredericksburg for approximately ten miles, then turn right onto Va. Rte. 606, Stonewall Jackson Road for about 3 miles. The “Stonewall” Jackson Death Site will be on the right. Additionally, you can take Rte. 1 south from Fredericksburg for approximately six miles, then turn left onto Guinea Station Road for about six miles. Take a left onto Stonewall Jackson Road, and the “Stonewall” Jackson Death Site will be on the left.
As a Catholic school girl, it was de rigueur to learn about the many saints of my religion.
There are over 10,000 named saints and blessed people. Christians began honoring other Christians around 100 A.D. with many of the first saints being martyrs who had given up their lives during the persecution for their faith, a custom that was appropriated from the Jewish faith in which prophets and holy people were revered and honored with shrines.
While a schoolgirl, the most beloved saints, and the ones I remembered most, hailed from other countries; Saint Francis of Assisi (Italy), Saint Patrick (Ireland), Saint Anthony of Padua (Italy), Saint Christopher (Canaan), Saint Patrick (Ireland), Saint Theresa of Avila (Spain), Saint Bernadette (France). In 1975, just after I began third grade, I remember my teacher, Sister Mary Cecilia, giving us some important information. The first American-born saint had been canonized…Saint Elizabeth Seton.
I don’t remember learning much more about her at the time…learning to duplicate Sister Cecilia’s neat cursive handwriting seemed much more crucial.
Years later, during a visit to Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, a familiar name popped up on the map in the nearby town of Emmitsburg, Maryland…that of Elizabeth Seton.
The fact that a shrine to this American saint was located in a very small town in Maryland was quite puzzling as I knew that she was a New York native. Gettysburg had been my main destination on this trip, but once I learned of this shrine, it was a place that I simply had to visit and the mystery as to how St. Elizabeth Seton ended up here would be solved.
An arresting film in the museum presented St. Elizabeth Seton’s life in a brief twelve minutes.
Elizabeth Ann Bayley was born in New York City on August 28, 1774 in the Episcopal faith. Married at the age of nineteen to William Magee Seton, she had five children. During a trip to Italy with her husband, she was moved by the deep faith of those who practiced Catholicism. Before their return home, however, William passed away from tuberculosis, leaving her a widow. Seeking consolation and the desire to experience the deep faith that she had witnessed in Italy, Elizabeth decided to convert to Catholicism two years later, despite criticism from friends and family,
Portraits of the Seton Family, Mother Seton, top right
Working as a teacher for a short time, in order to support herself and her children, she was approached by a visiting priest, the Abbe Louis William Valentine Dubourg, a member of the French émigré community of Sulpician Fathers and then president of St. Mary’s College of Baltimore Maryland. Abbe Dubourg extended an invitation for Elizabeth to move to Emmitsburg and establish the Saint Joseph’s Academy and Free School, dedicated to the education of Catholic girls on land bestowed by Samuel Sutherland Cooper, a wealthy convert and seminarian at the newly established Mount Saint Mary’s University.
On July 31, 1809, Elizabeth Seton established the first congregation of religious sisters to be founded in the United States, which was dedicated to the care of the children of the poor. With the initiation of Sisters of Charity of St. Joseph’s, Elizabeth adopted the title of “Mother Seton”. Mother Seton, along with the sisters, worked tirelessly until her death on January 4, 1821, at the age of 46.
Touring the museum, I learned a great deal about Elizabeth Seton’s remarkable life from illustrations, anecdotes, 19th century artifacts and letters written by the saint. The 40 Years A Saint exhibit detailed how she became a saint and highlighted the event on September 14, 1975, when Pope Paul VI proclaimed her a saint.
“Elizabeth Ann Seton is a saint. St. Elizabeth Ann Seton is an American. All of us say this with special joy, and with the intention of honoring the land and the nation from which she sprang forth as the first flower in the calendar of the saints. Elizabeth Ann Seton was wholly American! Rejoice for your glorious daughter. Be proud of her. And know how to preserve her fruitful heritage.” –Pope Paul VI
This exhibit’s focal point is the actual banner which hung in St. Peter’s Square on the day of her canonization.
Moving on to the basilica located upstairs from the museum, I was extremely moved by the the artistic beauty of the building. Originally designed as a chapel for the sisters of the Daughters of Charity, upon her beatification it was decided that it would serve as her National Shrine. Completed in 1965, the main feature is the altar for Saint Elizabeth. Here, in the Altar of Relics, is where Saint Elizabeth Seton’s remains are entombed in a copper casket enclosed in marble and topped with a statue of the saint, sculpted in Italy and depicting Mother Seton dressed in the habit that she and the Sisters of Charity wore beginning in 1809.
Altar of Relics
Stepping out of the basilica into the beautiful sunny afternoon, a day fit for visiting a saint, I ventured through the well manicured lawn to the Stone House, one of the first homes that Elizabeth Seton lived in when she first arrived in Emmitsburg. The home, which had been expanded over the years to accommodate the growing number of sisters, is usually available for self-guided tours. Due to the Covid restrictions, however, this and none of the other buildings throughout the premises were open. There was an audio recording that I was able to play and listen to while I peered into the windows at the period furnishings that still decorate the structure.
Moving through the gardens, I made my way over to the White House, the first house of the Sisters of Charity. Originally called “St. Joseph’s House” for Elizabeth Seton’s high regard of the saint, it is fully furnished with items that include those in existence for nearly 200 years and includes a schoolroom, much like the one Saint Elizabeth taught in, and a small chapel. Again, the interior was not open to visitors, but a recording was available at the back door.
The cemetery was a short walk away. As Mother Seton, her sister-in-law, Harriet, and other sisters walked through the woods searching for a cemetery site, the story has been passed on that Harriet threw an apple core against an old oak and declared it to be her final resting spot. Sadly, it was where they laid Harriet to rest only four months later.
Surrounded by a high wall set with bronze stations of the cross, the cemetery is the final resting place of many graves of Sisters and Daughters of Charity. As I walked toward the center, I discovered the Mortuary Chapel. Built by Elizabeth’s son, William to honor his mother, her remains laid in rest here for only a short while. In 1846, they were transferred to the chapel’s vault and later exhumed for her beatification. As I saw earlier, they rest in the basilica.
Mortuary ChapelFormer Resting Spot of Mother SetonStations of the Cross
My visit to the National Shrine of Saint Elizabeth Seton had come to an end. So much information was imparted on me that I felt like once again, I was at St. Joseph’s School in Sister Cecelia’s religion class. Thinking that I was going to only learn about Gettysburg and the ghosts of Civil War past, I discovered so much more about the first American saint.
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Address: 339 South Seton Avenue, Emmitsburg, Maryland 21727-9297
Hours: Visitor’s Center, Museum, Gift Shop, Monday-Saturday, 1000-1700 and Sunday, 1200-1700. Basilica, Monday-Sunday, 1000-1700.
Mass Schedule: Sunday-Friday, 1330. Confession and Adoration, Monday-Friday, prior to Mass from 1215-1315.
Admission: free
Getting There: The shrine is located along US 15, about 10 miles south of Gettysburg and within a one to two-hour drive of major metropolitan areas, like Frederick and Baltimore, MD, Washington, DC, and Harrisburg, PA.
Just south of the Mason Dixon line lies the town of Emmitsburg, Maryland.
You’ve probably never heard of it?
I never had.
While on a trip to Gettysburg, I drove by this small town and learned that there were some important places of interest located here. I decided that when I departed Gettysburg, I would make a detour through Emmitsburg and see for myself what it was all about.
Once known as Poplar Fields or Silver Fancy in the 1780s, it was renamed for a local landowner, William Emmit. Widely known for two pilgrimage sites, the National Shrine Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes and the Basilica and National Shrine of St. Elizabeth Ann Seton, which I planned to visit, I also learned that there are a few other historical buildings within the town.
Just eleven miles south of Gettysburg, I drove through a quaint town with neatly kept colonial buildings and a rich history. Emmitsburg’s town square was the site of the town water pump and distinguished with a beautiful Victorian fountain which operated for more than forty years. During the summer of 1863, a great fire swept through the town and destroyed approximately forty homes. Almost one quarter of the town was destroyed and fifty-five families were left homeless. The town’s progress was greatly diminished by the fire and many had to seek employment elsewhere. Only a month later, both Union and Confederate soldiers traveled through the town on their way to what would be the Battle of Gettysburg. Confederate General J.E.B. Stuart and the 34th Virginia Calvary engaged here in a small battle with Federal troops which resulted in the capture of 70 Union soldiers and their captain.
I decided to park my car and take a walk through the downtown area. There were many churches, but it was the Catholic Church of St. Joseph that drew me in. Established in 1852, the steeple was added to the church in 1863 and multiple renovations completed during the next forty years. The church was relatively uncomplicated with a single aisle and a main altar. A beautiful painting of its patron saint, St. Joseph, was hanging behind the altar, a round portrait of the Holy Family located on the ceiling and there were some stunning arched stained glass windows lining its walls. After my visit was complete, I took a walk around the cemetery, inspecting the headstones, most dating back to the early and mid 1800s.
Getting back to my car, I next headed to the National Emergency Training Center campus which is located on the former grounds of Saint Joseph College. Located here is the Emergency Management Institute, the National Fire Academy and the National Fallen Firefighters Memorial. The latter was what I intended to see, however, the entrances to the campus were all closed.
It was the Shrine to St. Elizabeth Seton and the National Shrine Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes that I wanted to visit next, however, I discovered two other picturesque buildings near the road to the Grotto. St. Anthony’s Shrine, a gorgeous stone church, has roots dating back to the 1700s, however the edifice dates back to its dedication in 1897. The church was not open, however, even in the light rain that was falling, it was a fascinating and striking fabrication with its red contrasts. A short walk led me to another building marked St. Anthony Little School House, established in 1890. Again, the building was not open, however, I gather that it was a public schoolhouse created for use by the local children.
Side trips aside, it was time to make make my way to the Shrine of St. Elizabeth Seton and the National Shrine of Our Lady of Lourdes. Though Emmitsburg was an interesting detour, these were the sites that I couldn’t wait to see (and they were open for business!)
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You don’t see many in your everyday life except in certain areas of the country.
While visiting Gettysburg, I learned of the Sachs Covered Bridge. Located not far from the battlefields and President Eisenhower’s home, it was built in 1852 by David Stoner. Spanning one hundred feet over the nearby Marsh Creek, it is considered Pennsylvania’s most historic bridge and was listed in 1980 on the National Register of Historic Places.
So, what makes the bridge so special…besides its beautiful deep crimson hue and tranquil setting? It was used by both Union and Confederate Troops during the Battle of Gettysburg in 1863. Pedestrian traffic is only allowed across the lattice bridge and it is frequented by ghost hunters on a nightly basis. Many ghostly encounters have been witnessed here, so visit at your own risk!
Heading southwest, I encountered the G. Donald McLaughlin Bridge. Also called the Jacks Mountain Bridge, it is the only covered bridge in Adams County that you can still drive through. Located near Fairfield, it was constructed in 1890 using the traditional Burr truss and spans seventy five feet over Tom’s Creek.
It was quite interesting waiting for the traffic light to turn green to control traffic through the bridge. Though I wanted to drive slowly to absorb the experience, it was quite a busy road and I did not want to inconvenience other drivers who probably tire of onlookers. After crossing the bridge to the southern side, I was able to pull off and capture a few photos.
Continuing my journey southward, I crossed into the state of Maryland. Just off of Route 15, I began my search for the three covered bridges that span various tributaries in Frederick County.
Roddy Road Covered Bridge was built in 1856 and lies just north of Thurmont, Maryland. It is the smallest bridge and located adjacent to a children’s park. The bridge is open to car traffic but you can pull over to the left side of the road to take pictures or walk across between the intermittent traffic.
Not far away, I found Loys Station Covered Bridge in Rocky Ridge. If you are looking to make an experience out of visiting this bridge, this is the perfect place! Built in 1880, you can still spot pieces of its original timber as you carefully walk across the bridge, still open to car traffic. On the south side of Owen’s Creek, Loys Station Park is a great place to park, picnic or fish along the banks of the creek. It is a great area to take children to play on the playground equipment while checking out this magnificent piece of architecture.
Finally, with a little bit of driving through the countryside, I located the Utica Road Covered Bridge. Built in 1834, it originally crossed the Monocacy River until 1889 when it was washed away by a storm. Reconstructed, it was moved to its current location across Fishing Creek. Located near Lewistown, it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
As the evening came to a close, I scanned my map for of these exceptional landmarks. There were a few more…just much further than daylight would allow!
If you are in the great states of Pennsylvania or Maryland, set out on a unique adventure to see these historic spans that have stood the test of time. Afteral, it is uncertain how much time they have left…
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Sachs Covered Bridge
Address: Waterworks Road, Gettysburg, PA 17325
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Sachs Covered Bridge sits in the southwestern corner of Gettysburg National Military Park. The bridge is located at the end of a short dirt road off of Pumping Station Road.
G. Donald McLaughlin Bridge
Address: 299-231 Jacks Mountain Road, Fairfield, PA 17320
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Jacks Mountain Covered Bridge is located just off of Route 116 on Jacks Mountain Road near Fairfield.
Roddy Road Covered Bridge
Address: 14760 Roddy Road Thurmont, MD 21788
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Loys Station Covered Bridge
Address: 13506 Old Frederick Road, Rocky Ridge, MD 21778
Though Gettysburg is known for its battlefields, there are many historic buildings and beautiful architecture throughout the city that should be investigated.
After a long day spent driving through the battlefields, I decided to check out some of the historic sites in the city. Though most were closed due to Covid 19 restrictions, I was able to photograph the exteriors and imagine the famous people that once walked here and the stories that emanated from the battles in the area.
One of the stateliest sites in the city is the Gettysburg train station. It was here that President Abraham Lincoln arrived when invited to say a few appropriate remarks at the dedication of the Soldiers’ National Cemetery. These remarks resulted in one of the most historic speeches in our nation’s history, the Gettysburg Address. The station was restored in 2006 and offers a self-guided tour featuring exhibits and artifacts relating to Lincoln and the railroad’s role in the history of Gettysburg.
Nearby is the Majestic Theater. Opened on November 14, 1925, the theater welcomed audiences to vaudeville and silent movies. Seating 1,200 patrons, it was built by Henry Scharf as an annex to the historic Gettysburg Hotel. Visited often by former President Dwight D. Eisenhower and First Lady Mamie Eisenhower, the theater also achieved acclaim for its premier of major movies including Federico Fellini’s Satyricon in 1970 and Ted Turner’s Gettysburg in 1993. Since its restoration in 2005, the theater has once again welcomed audiences to be seated in its original grandeur.
Around the corner and connected to the Majestic Theater is the Gettysburg Hotel. Though this would have been my choice of accommodations for my stay, I discovered that this historic hotel was closed until next summer as they are assisting with the housing of students from the University of Gettysburg. Centrally located in Lincoln Square, it is in close proximity to many wonderful eating establishments, shopping and historic buildings and is only a three-minute drive to Gettysburg National Military Park. Dating back to 1797, when it opened as a tavern, it has a rich history and is reported to be haunted by a few spirits including a Civil War nurse named Rachel, a wounded soldier and a dancing woman in the hotel’s ballroom.
Across the street is the David Wills House. Abraham Lincoln was a guest of David Wills here on November 18 and 19, 1863. David Wills was an attorney and superintendent of Adam’s County Schools, President of the Gettysburg Borough Council in 1872 and an Adams County Judge, as well as serving on the board of directors of the Bank of Gettysburg and the Gettysburg Railroad Company among others. Though his host was a very prominent citizen, I was uncertain why the President would not have stayed in one of the finer rooms at the Gettysburg Hotel, however, it was here that he met with Governor Curtin and completed his Gettysburg Address. The museum was closed during this time, however, I made sure to take a picture with the statue of our great President (with a statue of a tourist) outside on the sidewalk.
A short walk from the David Wills House on Baltimore Street is the Adams County Courthouse, built in 1859 to replace the original courthouse originally located in the town square. Used as a hospital following the Battle of Gettysburg, it is now included on the National Register of Historic Places. The original courtroom was in use from 1859 to 1979 and contains tromp d’oiel frescoes painted by George Seiling in 1859. Today, that courtroom is only used for ceremonial purposes.
Across the street, you can spot the Adams County Library with its own statue of Abraham Lincoln. Installed in 2014, the bronze statue sits atop a base containing the inscription of the Gettysburg Address and commemorates our President and the historic speech.
As always, I had hoped to check out some of the nearby churches, however, I found them all to be locked. St. Francis Xavier Church was first on my list. Standing on the portico, I found a summation of its history. Built in 1853, the church served as a field hospital during and after the Battle of Gettysburg.
Crossed the street, I found the Memorial Episcopal Church of the Prince of Peace. The first Episcopal Church was established in 1747, with the actual church being consecrated in 1836. It is known for a stained-glass window which depicts Christ with the Children.
Hopping back in my car, I headed north on Baltimore Street towards the beautiful campus of Gettysburg College. Established in 1832, by anti-slavery theologian Samuel Simon Schmucker, as Pennsylvania College, it stood in the way of the immense battle between the north and the south. The college’s Pennsylvania Hall became a hospital for hundreds of soldiers from both the Confederate and Union armies. In honor of its alumni David Wills, who hosted President Lincoln in his home, tradition has it that each fall, first year students recreate the procession through town to hear an honored guest read the Gettysburg Address. The school is also known for its Civil War programs. The campus is quite lovely and contains its own statue of Lincoln, seated in front of Stevens Hall, signing the Emancipation Proclamation.
There are many beautiful homes and businesses throughout the city, and I would have loved to have seen them all. Though getting around Gettysburg is quite easy, there was still so much to see in the nearby areas, and I was determined to make the most of my time. If you make your way to Gettysburg, make the most of your time and check out its architectural gems.
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I had no idea who this was and why she would have a house named after her in Gettysburg, so I pulled into the parking lot, went inside and discovered an incredible story.
Embarking on the self-guided tour, I was first given an introduction by one of the staff appropriately dressed in period attire. At the entrance door, I was shown the bullet holes that both made Jennie Wade a notable name and ended her life.
As the Confederate troops were descending upon Gettysburg from the north and the Union troops from the south, the dwelling of Georgia McClellan, Jennie’s sister, was caught between the two armies in what was called “No Man’s Land”.
Unable to leave the city, as her sister was due to deliver a child and her mother ill, she was determined to make the best of the dangerous situation. During that summer, Jennie did what she could to keep up with the demand for bread and water and medical care for the troops. While standing in the kitchen, baking biscuits, the armies began firing upon each other, striking the house multiple times. One of the bullets pierced two doors, striking Jennie and killing her instantly where she stood in the kitchen. Although almost 50,000 soldiers were killed during the three day battle, Jennie became Gettysburg’s only civilian fatality.
As the guide left me, I made my way into the house, entering the kitchen. In front of the small table, I stood in the same spot where Jennie took her last breath. Sadly, there are still traces of Jennie’s blood on the floorboards and the kitchen was left mostly as it was on the day of her death.
The house is authentically furnished and it was easy to transport myself back to that time and imagine how it must have felt to go about one’s daily life while a war was waging outside the door.
Before I followed the the directions in the pamphlet given to me by the guide, I noticed a sign on the ill-fated door. Apparently, legend has it that if an unmarried girl puts her ring finger through the bullet hole in the door, she will receive a proposal of marriage within a year. There was even a letter from a happy couple, one of many received by the staff.
Entering the front room, I discovered that although it was probably originally slated to serve as a parlor, it served as Jennie’s sister’s room, fitted with a colorfully outfitted bed, small writing desk, cradle and fireplace. After careful inspection, I discovered a bullet hole from ammunition that pieced one of the bedposts.
Making my way up the rear staircase, I discovered two large bedrooms which made up the length of the house. Interestingly, there was a hole in the center wall which allowed access to the adjacent home. Just before that ill-fated day, an artillery shell had entered the home through the roof, knocking out the wall and this was the way Jennie’s body was removed from the home.
McClellan Upstairs
Walking through the ravaged partition, I made my way into the home next door, which belonged to the McClain family. Decorated with much finer furnishings, it was laid out in much the same way as the McClellan house except for the parlor remaining as it was originally designated. The large display cabinet contains many artifacts which include, envelopes addressed to Jennie from her suitor, Jack, a photo of Jennie, the 10 pound parrot shell which struck the house on July 2, 1863, a letter describing the shell and the floorboard where Jennie fell.
McClain BedroomMcClain KitchenMcClain Parlor
Exiting the home, the directions led me to the cellar. It wasn’t until later while looking back at my photos that I realized that it displayed a re-creation of the viewing of Jennie’s body under the quilt at the end of the room. Thankfully, I did not realize it at the time…this was very creepy in a town known for ghosts! Finally, ending my tour in the gift shop, I found many souvenirs and collectibles that keep the memory of Jennie alive. The staff in the giftshop were extremely helpful with additional information and provided me with a map of Evergreen Cemetery, where Jennie Wade’s grave can be found.
Off I went, in search of Jennie.
The Evergreen Cemetery, built in 1854, is adjacent to the National Cemetery and is part of Gettysburg Battlefield Historic District. Experiencing three days as a battlefield, it was destroyed and desecrated. Graves were run down and monuments destroyed.
Evergreen Cemetery Entrance
Headstones destroyed during the Battle of Gettysburg
Today, it is immaculately kept and many notable citizens are interred here. Two Confederate soldiers are buried in the cemetery and some tombstones still display battle damage. The most famous person, however, is Jennie Wade. Located near the front of the graveyard, hers is a tall monument, topped with a statue. Her tombstone states, “Killed July 3, 1863 while making bread for the Union soldiers”.
Jennie Wade’s Resting Place
That’s who Jennie Wade was.
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Covered bridges are a source of fascination for many and there are a few located in the southern Pennsylvania and northern Maryland areas. One, in particular, is located in Gettysburg near the battlefields and was used by both Union and Confederate soldiers.
In addition to my explorations of the Gettysburg battlefields, I had anticipated side trips into the countryside to each of these.
After leaving the Eisenhower home, however, I passed by an old trestle bridge. There were a few people standing on the bridge, which was closed to traffic, and I thought that it might be a good photo opportunity.
Parking and exiting my car, I made my way through the overgrowth on the road’s shoulder onto the bridge. A plaque on the left, identified it as the John Eisenhower bridge and one on the right, displayed details of its builders, Gilbert & Smith, and the date of its completion, 1886.
The bridge was in a state of decomposition and it’s position being infringed upon by creeping vines and weeds. Nevertheless, it was nice to observe the rushing, clear water beneath and listen to the birds chirping in the trees.
Only staying a few minutes, I hopped back on the road to complete my battlefield tour.
It was a bit later that evening, that I learned from my waiter, that the John Eisenhower bridge has been dubbed the “Suicide Bridge”. Now, there are many haunted sites throughout Gettysburg, some I knew about, however, I was curious about this one.
A little digging left me without any further knowledge about the bridge’s history but the idea that this is a paranormal hot spot, thought to be frequented by ghosts from those that have ended their lives here by hanging. Many ghost tours take you to this location, their guests hoping to see a ghostly apparition or experience energy from the other side.
I can tell you that had I known this earlier, I might have been a little apprehensive about spending time in this location. To be fair, however, it was broad daylight and didn’t seem so creepy.
Now, nighttime is another thing and I hear that many people head there during the dead of night, hoping to capture some sort of eerie phenomenon!
Where does a President of the United States go for some downtime?
For President Truman, it was Key West, Florida. For President George W. Bush, it was Kennebunkport, Maine.
For President Dwight D. Eisenhower, it was his home in Gettysburg.
Tucked away near the historic Gettysburg Battlefield, is the former home of President Eisenhower, which served the president and the first lady as a weekend retreat to escape the stresses of city and presidential life. Though both preferred to leave their responsibilities in Washington D.C., sometimes they brought some of it with them by having some of the world’s leaders as guests at their retreat.
Having purchased the home in 1950 for their retirement, General Eisenhower had to vacate the premises soon after to assume command of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization in Europe. During their absence, friends took over the maintenance and daily operations of the farm.
Two years later, Eisenhower, back in the United States, was elected President. Though his primary residence became the White House, he and his wife, Mamie visited their farm as often as possible with the President taking a hands-on approach when on site. So enthralled with the success of his farm, he received one of the most personally meaningful awards of his lifetime. The first, “Honorary Master Farmer” was bestowed upon the President in July 1963.
Set amidst the fields and mountains of Gettysburg, the home was perfect for Mamie and Ike with its large kitchen, eight bedrooms, nine bathrooms, stately living room, formal dining room, glassed-in porch and 495 acres. Today, the home still retains most of its original furnishings and during regular times, tours offer an intimate look into the life and times of the President and the First Lady.
Because of Covid 19 restrictions, the Eisenhower Home and Reception Center are closed, however, the grounds of Eisenhower National Historic Site are open and visitors may drive themselves instead of taking the bus service from the Gettysburg Visitor’s Center.
Reception Center
Though I would have loved to have taken a peek inside the presidential home, to get a glimpse of the First Lady’s very pink bathroom, the bedroom where Indian Prime Minister Nehru stayed during his visits, the President’s office and the many gifts of State, I had to be content to wander the grounds and only imagine what lay behind the drawn curtains.
Nevertheless, the grounds were well maintained and it was easy to follow the path around the 4100 square foot, Georgian-style house, which also boasts a barn with an attached office designated for the Secret Service, a reception center, a greenhouse and a tea house. There was a putting green behind the house where the President spent many hours perfecting his game and a helipad so that the he could come and go on his own schedule.
Secret Service Office Attached to the Milking BarnGreenhouseTea HouseThe President’s Putting Green
As you drive onto the grounds, you will spot the barns and sheds where the President’s prized herds were cared for. Though I noticed a path leading to these areas, it was not clear whether visitors were allowed during these uncertain times.
Standing behind the house, I reveled in the quiet and beautiful scenery all around me. I had only encountered one other set of visitors at the beginning of my self-guided tour and realized why the President made it a point to take a leave from the city and his responsibilities so often.
With so much peace and beauty all around, if I were the leader of the free world, I would have too! But Key West might be a better choice for me!
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