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There are many ancient basilicas throughout Italy.
There are many ancient basilicas in Milan.
Take your pick!
One of the oldest basilicas, San Lorenzo, is located in the southern part of the city of Milan near the canal district.
Originally built between the late fourth and early fifth century, the basilica boasts the highest dome in the city and lies opposite sixteen Corinthian marble columns, Colonne di San Lorenzo, the few remains of the Roman “Mediolanum” which date from the 3rd century AD.
Walking alongside these columns, I admired their everlasting strength and symmetry and turned to pass through the piazza in front of San Lorenzo. Here, I was greeted by a copy of the Emperor Constantine, the first emperor to convert to Christianity, standing tall and proud and ready to greet the hoards of young people who congregate here each afternoon and evening.
Entering the church, my first impression of the octagonal nave was one of a modest interior. A majestic gold altar, stands in the center, however the dark, grey stone innards is a far reach from many other churches’ beautifully painted interiors, more specifically San Maurizio, which I had visited earlier in the day.
As I walked around the exterior walls of the church, I discovered many interesting statues and small chapels, however, I also discovered what this church is known for. The Cappella di Sant’Aquilino (Chapel of St. Aquilinus).
After paying my entry fee of 2€, I discovered in this beautiful sanctuary, fourth century Byzantine mosaics on the walls and niches. One interesting mosaic in particular depicts a beardless Christ and another has crumbled away to reveal the artist’s drawings beneath.
A lovely, glass encased sarcophagus sits below a magnificently painted domed ceiling and is said to hold the remains of Galla Placidia, the wife of Ataulf, the king of the Visigoths and sister of Honorius, the last emperor of Rome.
After seeing two other tourists duck behind the sarcophagus I went to investigate, discovering a stairway leading down below the church. There, in the dusty crypt-like room, is a most fascinating find…the original foundations of the church. These ancient foundations were transported here from a Roman amphitheater and were the beginnings of San Lorenzo.
Ascending back up the stairs and through the chapel, I took time to reinspect central part of the church once again, realizing that I had missed the pipe organ, built by Pietro Bernasconi. This fascinating organ with two keyboards, was built with materials re-used from the previous organ built in 1840 by Felice Bossi, which in turn had borrowed parts from an earlier organ by Antonio Brunelli II. This original organ is believed to be from the church of San Giovanni in Conca.
As I exited the doors into the rainy afternoon and stared out at the Roman columns towering before the church, I realized that though not one of the most ornate basilicas in Milan, San Lorenzo is definitely one of the most interesting. When visiting this ancient basilica, be sure to spend the extra money and visit the Chapel of St. Aquilinus…truly the jewel in this masterpiece.
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Basilica di San Lorenzo
- http://www.sanlorenzomaggiore.com/
- Address: Corso di Porta Ticinese, 35, 20123 Milano, Italy
- Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0800-1830, Sunday, 0900-1900
- Admission: Church, free, Capella di Sant’Aquilino, 2€
- How To Get There: Tram, Ticinese Molino delle Armi, Line 3
Riding the metro late in the afternoon, I eyed the many young people, dressed up for the Saturday night. Disembarking at the Porto Genova stop, we all made our way down to the main canal. Being a beautiful sunny day, there were masses of people spilling out from the scores of bars, restaurants and cafes that line the canal. Happy hour was underway and specials were advertised throughout the area, most offering drinks and accompanying appetizer buffets.
Tourists crowded on the the many bridges that span the canals, all clamoring to get that perfect selfie and other artwork was abound with countless galleries and signs pointing to courtyards showcasing local artists work. Design showrooms and temporary outdoor photography and art exhibits can be found throughout the area.
Palazzo Borromeo and Santa Maria Padone. Palazzo Borromeo was built in the late 14th century when the Florentine Borromeo family moved to Milan. Remodeled over the centuries and badly damaged during the air raids of 1943, it’s appearance today is not of its original construction. The square was created in 1440 following the demolition of a number of houses purchased by the Borromeo family to create a space linking the family palace with the 9th century parish church of Santa Maria Padone. The Romanesque church was transformed into a small basilica and a small family chapel was added in the 15th century.
Imperial Palace. Close to the circus, you can find the remains of the Roman Imperial Palace complex. Many different buildings were used privately and publicly by the Emperor as well as his court officials and the imperial bureaucracy. As in other Italian cities, the Emperor had direct access from his palace to the circus.
Entering through the main Famedio, a Neo Medieval style memorial chapel made of marble and stone, I first stopped to gaze upon the beautiful blue ceiling and the tomb of novelist, Alessandro Manzoni before making my way through each of the hallways. I particularly loved walking along the outer edges of the open-aired corridors so that I could admire the building’s architecture, the courtyard and the ornate tombs that line the area.
Before making my way into the cemetery’s immaculately groomed grounds, I then walked the full length of the building’s lower level, exiting at the center, where I could examine the map and the locations of the cemetery’s famous occupants. In this area is also a structure comprised of metal tubes and black and white stones centered with a small clay bowl placed inside the main formation. Surrounded by memorial plaques, I was informed by a fellow bystander that it is a monument to the 800 Italians who perished in Nazi concentration camps and the bowl was filled with soil from the Mauthausen concentration camp.
Wandering the grounds, through the avenues of trees, should be reserved for an unhurried pace as to absorb entire beauty of the surroundings and that’s just what I did. It was impossible not to want to stop and inspect each monument, so detailed and individualized were they. Many of the tombs and funerary monuments are of such an extravagant size, it is almost as through you are walking through a neighborhood of homes.
