Dozing on the way to my hotel, I suddenly sat up, aware that the bus was making a series of turns. My inner navigation, sensing that we were almost to my hotel, had alerted me to the area, that no matter how many times I visit, I never tire of seeing on my arrival into Rome.
Passing by the Vatican’s towering walls and the line snaking around its perimeter, our bus made its way through the busy streets, finally taking a final turn. I eyed the vendors displaying their wares on the street corners, the summer sale signs in the clothing stores, the gelato shops…and then, I noticed something I had never noticed before.
A fountain.
Not so unusual, you say? If you’ve been to Rome before, you would be aware that fountains are a dime a dozen, existing in the city for over two-thousand years. They decorate street corners, piazzas and buildings. Originally fed by nine aqueducts to provide drinking water and enhancement, they are part of the overall Italian art and architectural experience.
But this one…just down the street from my hotel….looked a little lonely and a little bit dilapidated, with no running water. Yet, there was something about it that was extremely intriguing, but we drove by a little too quickly. Since it wasn’t far, I decided that I would walk that way later in the afternoon and take a closer look.
In the circular Piazza dei Quiriti, the fountain that I had spied…was still there…and waiting for me…but now I knew a little bit more about its history.
Before I had taken my nap, I had learned (thanks to Google!) that this small fountain was one of five erected in Rome during the 1920s to embellish the city. A competition was held by the municipality and the winner, Attilio Selva, gave them not only what they wanted but also a bit of controversy.
Severely criticized not only for its naked female figures and the positions in which they were situated, but also because it sat in the shadow of the church of San Gioacchino in Prati. Because of the controversy it aroused, the inauguration was postponed for over a year. During that time, however, the new Fascist government, preferring the exhibition of naked bodies, as evidenced by the adornment of au natural images on various buildings, caused the disputation to be soon forgotten.
Except to those enroute to San Gioacchino in Prati and of course, the curiosity seekers.
And me.
The curiosity seeker, enroute to San Gioacchino.
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Fontana Delle Cariatidi
Address: Piazza dei Quiriti, 00192 Roma, RM Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Bus, 180F, 30, 32, 70, 81. Train, FC3, FL3, FL5. Metro, Line A.
“Anyone want to go to finish of the Tour de France today?”
For twenty-three days, cyclists compete in the Tour de France, one of the greatest races in the world. Consisting of twenty-one stages that pass through villages and hamlets throughout the country, thousands of spectators line the streets and roadsides to cheer on the competitors and be part of the national celebration. The final stage speeds its way down the Avenue des Champs-Elysees on its final day, a day almost akin to a national holiday for the French.
My husband had always followed the Tour de France. Me? Not so much, but I knew that Lance Armstrong was a top contender that year and I just so happened to be in Paris for the finish of the great race. Of course, I was going to go!
Many of my coworkers were convinced that it “was going to rain”, that we “weren’t going to be ableto get there”, that we “wouldn’t be able to see anything even if we got there”. In the end, only three of us decided to take the chance and headed out toward the Arc de Triomphe.
It was my first Tour de France and…
…it did not rain.
…we were able to get there.
…we saw everything!
Lance Armstrong won that year and we were able to watch the racers streak by from our perch atop some hikers’ backpacks on the Avenue des Champs-Elysees. We also learned from two British gentlemen, who attended every year, that once the award ceremony was completed, we shouldn’t leave…the riders would come by slowly for victory laps and we would be able to capture some amazing photos! For never having had much interest in a cycling race, it was one of the most amazing experiences of my life!
Of course, the next day, those who told us not to go…were…well…a bit jealous, to say the least!
Over the years, I always thought I would go back to witness the finish of Tour de France again, but each June would go by and as I saw it playing out on television, I realized that my schedule that year, wouldn’t allow it.
Until this year.
I was going to be in Paris for the finish of the Tour de France! Funny thing was that I didn’t plan to be. A last minute swap with a coworker had put me being in the City of Lights on Sunday, June 18. My husband, while watching one of the stages of the race, mentioned that our youngest son had ruined his Tour de France shirt. This brought to mind my upcoming trip. As I checked the website and my calendar, I was amazed…the finish would be on the very day that I would be there! And although, things were going to be a bit different due to Covid restrictions, wild horses couldn’t keep me from going down to the Champs-Élysées to witness tis amazing spectacle!
After arriving in Paris that morning and a brief nap, we all headed down to the Arc de Triomphe to try and secure a primo viewing spot. The area was cordoned off by metal barricades and we had to walk for blocks to find an entrance. At the entrances, guards were checking vaccination cards and negative Covid test results to allow entry to the Avenue des Champs-Élysées.
Still early in the afternoon, we headed down the avenue noticing that there were no hordes of spectators lining the edges of the barricades yet. Checking the expected arrival of the racers on the Tour de France app, we realized that we still had a bit of time, so we decided to grab a bite to eat and a couple of beers.
As my cohorts enjoyed their food, I kept a close eye on the adjacent barriers, determined to have that front row seat that getting there early enough would merit.
Finally, we picked our spots…front row…and waited…anticipation mounting. Trips to the beer cart down the street may or may not have helped to pass the time.
Sirens filled the air and police motorcyclists sped down the Champs de Elysees. But no riders yet! What I had not remembered was that the racers were preceded by the publicity parade. This caravan, made up of many of France’s major brands in dedicated vehicles, advertise their wares and usually throw out free gifts to eager and waiting hands. This year, due to Covid, you guessed it…no free gifts! But still, the publicity parade is great fun and many people come to the race primarily for this part of it, not just to see the racers.
Military Flyover
As a roar swept through the crowd, making its way down toward us, we realized that they were finally here. Flashes of metal and colored jerseys departed as quickly as they arrived as the sheer speed of the cyclists made it nearly impossible to distinguish one from the other until the main pack slowed each other’s speeds. It was almost unimaginable, the endurance needed for these riders to make it to this point in the race, riding 100km for three weeks in physically challenging terrain.
After ten laps, we didn’t see the riders any more. That was it. It was over! No fanfare, no rider slicing through a ribbon at the finish line. We weren’t that close to the end point. We did learn, however, that the winner was 22-year old, Slovenian Tadej Pogačar (UAE Team Emirates) with Denmark’s Jonas Vingegaard and Ecuador’s Richard Carapaz behind him in second and third place.
Although during the last time I had attended, we had ventured down to the podium to watch the award ceremony, prior to the victory laps, it was not meant to be for the Tour de France 2021. My companions were not as eager to wait an unspecified time for something that may or may not have been cancelled due to Covid…and they were hungry!
So off we went…but with a new Tour de France t-shirt for my husband!
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Exploration of Chicago’s Grant Park is something that every tourist in Chicago undertakes at some point during their visit.
Me included!
Filled with important sculptural works and wide-open spaces, it is where Chicagoans head to enjoy the great outdoors.
My first full day in the Windy City was a beautiful one! The sun was shining, the sky was blue, and it was definitely not windy! My husband and I decided to head to Grant Park to see the many landmarks that dot the landscape and evoke fervor from its visitors.
Knowing there were many things to see and so many access points to the park, we decided to simply work our way from north to south. Entering from Maggie Daley Park, we walked through the Cancer Survivor’s Garden, with its open metal pavilion flanked by two forty-foot-tall granite columns, set up to greet visitors and invite them to stroll through its beautifully landscaped paths. This garden has spectacular views of Lake Michigan and was designed to be a celebration of life and hope for the survivors and those afflicted with cancer. It is a popular location for weddings and other special events and attracts those interested in ice skating during the winter, to its rink, and children seeking out a place to let off steam, year round, in its well-equipped playground.
To the west, we spied one of the city’s most iconic landmarks…the Cloud Gate in Millennium Park. A piece of fascinating sculpture, affectionately known as “The Bean”, it allows views of the city from its many mirrored sides. The stainless steel piece of artwork was designed by British artist Sir Anish Kapoor and installed in 2004. It is one of the most famous symbols of the city and definitely one of the most photographed.
The Cloud Gate
Not far away, we spied the Crown Fountain through the tree line. Another of the city’s interesting sculptural pieces, it was designed by Spanish artist Jaume Plensa and consists of two 50-foot glass block towers at the end of a shallow reflecting pool. The towers project video images of Chicago citizens with water flowing through an outlet in the proximity of their mouths. It is a great place for cooling off in the hottest months of the year!
The Crown Fountain
Continuing our walk south, we encountered the Clarence F. Buckingham Fountain, one of the park’s art pieces that I was most excited to see. One of the world’s largest fountains, dedicated in 1927, it was inspired by the Latona Fountain at the Palace of Versailles, which I had seen on one of my visits to France. Sadly, it was not operating. Not sure if it was the time of the year or if it was shut off due to Covid, it was a huge disappointment. We were, however, able to see some of the smaller fountains that surround the Buckingham Fountain…Fisher Boy, Crane Girl, Turtle Boy and Dove Girl…one pair north and one pair south. These fountains were designed by Leonard Crunelle and were originally part of an exhibit at Humboldt Park. In 1964, they were installed in their current location.
Buckingham FountainClockwise from top left, Fisher Boy, Crane Girl, Turtle Boy, Dove Girl
Heading west to Congress Plaza, we encountered the Equestrian Indians, two bronze equestrian sculptures which act as gatekeepers to the park. Known as The Bowman and The Spearman, they were created in Zagreb by Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović and installed in 1928.
The Bowman and The Spearman
Walking through the Formal Gardens to the southernmost end of the park, we finally ended up at the sculptural group that I most wanted to see, The Agora. Consisting of 106 headless figures, these bronze, steel and iron effigies, designed by Magdalena Abakanowicz, was installed in 2006. The figures are posed as if walking in multiple directions or standing still and seemingly invite visitors to pose with them (which I did, of course). In ancient Greece, the Agora was the central meeting place in its villages and cities…this final piece is the perfect addition to Grant Park. As the ancient Agora attracted people to meet, visit and learn, so does this newest addition to the park.
The AgoraThe Agora
Grabbing rental bikes for our exit, we finally had the opportunity to experience the wind in our hair! As we rode past these amazing works of art again, seeing them in a much different light, we realized that although there are so many things to see in Chicago, these ones that people walk past every day, are not ones to be taken for granted!
Other Chicago locations: Navy PierOther art and architecture in Chicago
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One of my favorite television programs is The Amazing Race.
Obviously!
Anyone who knows me knows that my passion is seeing and photographing the world and this show epitomizes travel and highlights some of the most iconic landmarks in the world. Some of my best travel ideas have come from watching the show and of course, I would love to one day compete!
On seasons 6 (2004) and 29 (2107), the Chicago Water Tower was featured in the finales of the Amazing Race. It seemed quite familiar to me as I walked by its location in Jane M. Byrne Plaza (named after the former Chicago mayor), on the way to my hotel, but it took a little research to realize why it had sparked my curiosity.
The Chicago Water Tower, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, was built in 1869 by architect William W. Boyington. It doesn’t appear to be the usual type of tower seen in most cities; designed to blend in with the nearby architecture and enclose the tall machinery of a powerful water pump which was intended to draw water from Lake Michigan.
When much of the city burned during the Great Chicago Fire of 1871, the water tower miraculously survived along with a few other structures in the area. In the years since the fire, the tower has become a symbol of old Chicago and the city’s recovery.
The second oldest water tower in the United States now operates as a Chicago Office of Tourism and as a small art gallery known as the City Gallery in the Historic Water Tower. While not acting as the finish line for television races or the inspiration for fast food restaurants (think White Castle), the gallery features the work of local photographers, artists and filmmakers and draws tourists to the Windy City for a look at a piece of the city’s historical architecture.
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My first visit to a Chinatown was in San Francisco as a new flight attendant. Although I had never been to China, in my mind this was pretty close to what I expected it to look like. Hours of my layovers were spent wandering the streets and shops, hoping one day to see the real thing when I would be senior enough to hold those trips.
Over the years, I have traveled the world and there have been multiple visits to Chinatowns throughout…New York, Washington, D.C., Milan, London, Havana, Manchester, Amsterdam…each unique in their own right, but all brimming with restaurants offering mouthwatering delicacies, shops selling everything from antiquities to dime-store trinkets and streets filled with Chinese architecture, signs and lanterns. I still love spending time in these neighborhoods and continue to seek them out whenever possible.
A friend’s retirement party brought me to Chicago one weekend this past spring. Though I had been through O’Hare airport many years ago, I had never been to the downtown area. Eager to see its highlights, I set out early. I had discovered that Chicago had a unique Chinatown and I headed in that direction with a stop at the Shedd Aquarium along the way. It was a cold and drizzly day and I huddled against the brisk wind blowing in from the lake, making my way through Grant Park, only to find an extensive line at the aquarium and a sign stating that reservations were required and no longer available.
John G. Shedd Aquarium
John G. Shedd Aquarium
Despite this disappointment, I pushed on and continued my walk along the harbor, passing Soldier Field and inspecting the bronze statues of Hall of Famers Walter Payton and team founder/former coach George Halas at the south entrance. It would have been interesting to take a tour of the Chicago Bears’ home field or take in a game, if it had been football season, but I really wanted to experience Chi-Town’s Chinatown.
Soldier Field
Statues of Chicago Bear’s Hall of Famers Walter Payton and George Halas
First encountering the crimson-hued entrance to Ping Tom Memorial Park with its beautiful Chinese-style pavilion, I then spied the Chinatown gateway at the intersection of S. Wentworth Avenue and Cermak Road. The colorful gate, a prominent display at most Chinatowns entrances, was constructed in 1975 and meant to act as a symbol of unity for the Chinese. As I walked beneath this massive structure, designed by Peter Fung, I was struck by the simplicity of its design and rich-toned hues that reflected its origins.
Ping Tom Memorial
Chinese-Style Pavilion in Ping Tom Park
Chicago’s Chinatown
Chicago’s Chinatown was first established in 1869 when immigrants began to arrive from San Francisco with the completion of the First Transcontinental Railroad. With no work to be found after the railroad’s opportunities were exhausted, the Chinese fled to other areas within the United States which were more accessible than the discriminative west coast. By the late 1800s, a large portion of the city’s Chinese residents had settled in the area which is now Chinatown and after the 1906 San Francisco earthquake, more arrived in droves.
Butcher shops, restaurants, gambling houses, Christian mission houses, Chinese laundries and grocery stores were prevalent in the area and Chicagoans, welcomed the new arrivals and patronized their businesses. In fact, frequenting the chop suey restaurants became extremely popular and more restaurants continued to open.
As expected, I found Wentworth Avenue to be replete with authentic Chinese restaurants, shops, buildings topped with pagodas, lion statues, mosaics and intriguing architecture. Although it is one of Chicago’s smallest neighborhoods, it was filled with huge sights and sounds!
Because I was obligated to meet my party for a meal later, taking the opportunity to enjoy a fare of dim-sum or noodles wasn’t in the cards for me, however, I stopped in to The Seven Treasures Cantonese Restaurant for a fresh coconut drink. Even though it was cold out, it was refreshing and reminded me of the drinks I once purchased from street vendors in Cambodia!
Before heading back to the metro, I wanted to see two of Chicago’s Chinatown’s important works of art. In Chinatown Square, I examined the two-story shopping center decorated with twelve sculptures of the Chinese zodiac and the mural “Chinese in America” which describes the history of Chinese immigrants in the U.S. and the Chinese cultural beliefs. 100,000 individually cut pieces of hand-painted glass from China were used to create this spectacular mural. Across the road and on my way to the metro station, I encountered the prominent Nine Dragon Wall. Modeled after the wall in Beihai Park in Beijing, it is made up of glazed tile from China and replicates the large dragons and over 500 smaller dragons painted in red, gold and blue signifying the Chinese focus on good fortune. It is only one of three such replicas outside of China.
Chinatown SquareNine Dragon Wall
Finally, time to head back to my hotel, I reluctantly boarded the train at the Cermak-Chinatown metro station. My time in Chi-Town’s Chinatown, was brief, yet an enlightening and entertaining experience. Much like my experiences in San Francisco many times over the years, I reveled in the art, architecture and cuisine. But as much as I enjoyed Chi-Town’s Chinatown and many others, I still found myself wishing that it could have been the real thing.
One day.
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Sometimes I feel like I don’t find churches, they find me!
I wasn’t looking to visit a church while in downtown Austin…I just happened to stumble upon one of the most historic ones in the state.
Built in the late 1800s, St. Mary’s Cathedral began as a small stone church named St. Patrick’s. As the parish continued to grow, the decision was made to build a new church. With both an Irish and German congregation, it was determined that a patron saint that reflected both heritages was needed, and St. Mary was chosen. In 1872, when Austin was made the state capital of Texas, the first cornerstone was laid, and the church completed two years later. St. Mary’s was deemed a cathedral in 1948.
The Gothic exterior seemed out of place amongst Austin’s towering skyscrapers, yet it was mesmerizing with its Gothic revival towers and spires which were added in 1907. Inside the tower, the cathedral’s bell is one of the largest in the state of Texas.
As I entered the cathedral, I was quite surprised to find a stunning interior, highlighted by spindled beams and a barrel-vaulted ceiling. Towering stained glassed windows lined each side of the church and tree-like columns were topped with foliage carved capitals. As I made my way toward the altar, I gazed upward at the bright blue dome painted with stars and flanked by two altars dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and St. Joseph and as I turned to face the rear of the church, I was mesmerized by the spectacular large rose window in the front façade.
In a city of known for its music, St. Mary’s is the site of a Christmas concert that highlights its Irish heritage. Traditional Irish and Scottish music is performed by acclaimed artists and the concert is a sellout each year.
So, when you visit Austin, not only can you experience music throughout the city, you can hear it at St. Mary’s and experience its history and architecture at the same time.
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Years ago, when I lived in Dallas, I always heard people say this, so when I visited Austin for the first time, I expected BIG things there as well.
Did I find that?
You bet!
Being downtown has its advantages. It’s a BIG city, but everything is close by. Or so I thought!
My initial plan was to take a walk along the river, enjoy the scenery and city views and then head over to one of Austin’s local attractions. It was a beautiful day and I thought it would be nice to be outdoors and get my daily dose of culture.
After a short time, I happened upon the statue of music legend Stevie Ray Vaughan. It was a normal sized statue, but the bronze effigy, erected in 1994, depicts the Blues guitarist in his customary poncho, straight brimmed hat and western boots, as he appeared to his adoring fans before his death…LARGER than life.
Seeking out more three-dimensional art, my next destination was to be the Umlauf Sculpture Garden and Museum. Thinking I could continue my trip along the river and be there in a short amount of time, I soon discovered that my short walk was actually a long one. BIG mistake! Silly me…I had plugged in the driving directions on my phone instead of the walking directions and it was a lot farther than I thought. Too invested to give up at this point, I plodded onward but I was glad I did.
The Umlauf Sculpture Garden and Museum, exhibits the works of Charles Umlauf and other visual and performing artists displayed in a peaceful setting filled with native Texas plants and trees. The site once contained small ponds which were used by soldiers to practice fly casting during the 1930s and 1940s. Becoming overgrown and neglected during later years, the property was then given to the City of Austin and transformed into a sculpture garden for the dozens of bronze and stone pieces gifted to the city in 1991, by 20th century American sculptor, Charles Umlauf.
As I made my way through the property, I encountered stunning sculptural works of art amid waterfalls, streams, pathways, flowers and natural beauty. With not just one theme on display, I encountered three-dimensional depictions of men, women, children, animals and religious subjects. In addition, there were a few pieces, including the winning project, from the design competition, Design Shine 2020…a BIG deal!
Deciding not to make the long walk back to the city, I called Uber in anticipation of arriving in time to see Austin’s BIGGEST spectacle during the spring and summer months. The nightly emergence of the bats at the Congress Avenue Bridge!
Never had I heard of the Austin bats! Only when I mentioned to a friend that I was going to be in the Music City did she tell me what an amazing experience it is and that I was going to be there during the prime viewing season.
But first, I wanted a quick look around the downtown area.
Approaching from Congress Avenue, I admired the grand State Capitol building with its BIG dome, viewable all the way from the Congress Street Bridge. It was getting late in the day and although I was aware that tours, both guided and self-guided were offered, I didn’t have the time, especially if I was going to see the bats. Glancing at my watch, I also realized that the last tours departing would be in a few minutes…definitely not enough time to make my way across the lawn and make the necessary arrangements. But as I entered the front gates, I discovered that sticking with the theme of the day…BIG statues…I could make the most of the rest of my afternoon.
The Texas Confederate Memorial Lawn has some amazing monuments designed and constructed by notable sculptors along its Great Walk and on the grassy lawns to the east and west. Here, you can find the African American History Memorial (West Lawn), Spanish American War Memorial, (West Lawn), Memorial to Volunteer Firefighters (Great Walk), the Monument to Confederate Soldiers (Great Walk), Memorial to the Texas Rangers (Great Walk), Heroes of the Alamo Monument (Great Walk), Artesian Fountain Exhibit (East Lawn) and the Tejano Monument (East Lawn). In fact, the collection is so BIG, that even though I glanced at one of the maps, I still missed so many more statues located at the rear of the Capitol building…Ten Commandments, Texas Schoolchildren, Pioneer Woman, Pearl Harbor, Statue of Liberty, World War I, World War II, Korean War Veterans, Vietnam Veterans, Disabled Texas Veterans and Texas Police Officers. I now definitely have motivation to return!
Texas African American History Memorial
Memorial to Volunteer Firefighters
Monument to Confederate Soldiers Memorial to the Texas Rangers Heroes of the Alamo Monument Artesian Fountain Exhibit Tejano Monument
Oh well, it was getting late, and I wanted to be sure not to miss the BIG event!
As I headed back down Congress Avenue, I marveled at the architecture as well as the graffiti artwork displayed on many of the buildings and in alleyways. My favorite, however, was the BIG guitar on Congress Avenue, designed by Craig Hein, giving homage to Austin’s musical roots.
Earlier, while walking along the river, I had observed signs for boat companies that offer trips out on the river so that riders get a prime view of the emergence at sunset. Other companies offered kayak trips for similar views but not being sure of my plans at the time, I had not made any reservations. Instead, I took my place along the rail on the pedestrian walkway, along the river on the north bank, with hundreds of other people and waited. To be honest, at that time, I wasn’t quite sure what I was waiting for.
Finally, I heard a gasp and saw my fellow observers pointing. There they were. Hundreds of Brazilian Free-Tailed bats were emerging from the 16-inch-deep crevices between concrete beams of the bridge, their nesting spot during the day, and taking flight in search of their evening meal.
Little did I know, at the time, how lucky I was to see this phenomenon as weather sometimes dictates their appearance with hot or warm, dry weather being the optimum conditions. 100,000 bats live under the bridge, rearing their young and then migrating to Mexico during the winter months.
Although I was able to see the long columns of bats in the darkening sky, it was obvious that there are many other prime viewing locations, in the river and on the opposite bank.
Weary, yet excited, I stumbled back in the direction of my hotel, hoping to find a BIG burrito and a BIG margarita…because you can’t go to Austin and expect anything less!
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Hours: Tuesday-Friday, 1000-1600, Saturday and Sunday, 1100-1600. Closed Monday. Closed Independence Day, Labor Day, Austin City Limits Music Festival, December 24 and 25, December 31 and January 1.
Admission: Members, free, Adults, $7.00, Seniors (60+), $5.00, Students, $3.00, Youth, 13-17 years, $1.00, Children under 12, Active Military and Veterans, free.
Hours: Texas Capitol and Extension: Monday-Friday, 0700-2000, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-2000. Easter Sunday, Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day. Grounds open daily, 0700-2000. Capitol Visitor’s Center, Monday-Friday, 0900-1700, Saturday and Sunday, 1200-1700. Easter Sunday, Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day. Monday-Friday, guided tours of the Capitol are available on a limited basis between 9:30 a.m. and 4 p.m. with the last tour departing at 3:30 p.m. On Saturday and Sunday, guided tours of the Capitol are available on a limited basis between 1230 and 1600 with the last tour departing at 1530. Self-guided tours of the Capitol and Grounds are allowed daily. Visitors are welcome to pick up free self-guided Capitol and Grounds tour brochures at the Capitol north entry or Capitol Information and Guide Service 1S.2.
Admission: Capitol Tours, both guided and self-guided, are free. All tours depart from inside the South Foyer outside the tour guides office in the Capitol, approximately every 30-45 minutes and last for 30 minutes.
Driving down Estero Parkway toward Naples, I came across a sign directing visitors to the Koreshan Historic Site. With no idea about what this place was, on a whim, I turned my car and decided to check it out.
What I found, blew my mind!
Anticipating a monument of some sorts, I instead found something within Koreshan State Park, very unexpected, very historical and just downright interesting.
In 1894, Dr. Cyrus R. Teed, founded the Koreshan Unity Settlement in Estero, a utopian community comprised of approximately two-hundred followers. Taking the name “Koresh”, Hebrew for Cyrus, meaning shepherd, he led his people to the area hoping to find a location which was accepting of their religious, scientific and cultural beliefs, the main one being that the entire universe existed within a giant, hollow sphere…the Earth.
At this location, the followers built a community consisting of a farm, nursery, botanical gardens, a printing facility, boat works, cement works, sawmill, bakery, store and a hostelry. Living a life based on communal living, they also lived celibate lives.
Only fourteen years after the establishment of the commune, Dr. Teed passed away at the age of 69, leaving some of the members to give up on the movement. After years of decline, there were only four remaining members in 1961, who then decided to deed the 305 acres of their land to the State of Florida as a park and memorial.
Something seemed familiar to me. The name Koresh. In 1993, a man by the name of David Koresh was the leader of a cult, the Branch Davidians, in Waco, Texas, which met a devastating ending when their compound was stormed by the FBI. As I made my way through the site, I wondered if this former settlement was related. While visiting one of the buildings, I discovered that others were wondering the same thing as the question was posed to a park ranger. What we learned was that although both were communes with unique beliefs, the only similarity was the name Koresh, one that was adopted by its leader for its meaning…shepherd.
The grounds of the Koreshan Historic Site were quite large and as I made my way along its pathways, I encountered eleven buildings, each depicting the life of the community members and other points of interest.
The Art Hall served as the cultural, religious and educational center of the community. The members produced plays and musicals and founded the Pioneer University here, which instructed students on construction, baking, beekeeping and music.
ThePlanetary Courtwas built in 1904 and served as the residence of the governing body of the Koreshan Unity, the Planetary Council. The group, composed of seven women, each handling different aspects of day-to-day living in the settlement, lived in their own room and in relative luxury.
TheFounders House, built in 1896, is the oldest structure on the site and was the home of Dr. Cyrus Teed. It was restored in 1992.
The New Store was built in 1920 to replace the Old Store located nearby. This store not only served the Koreshan community but other residents in the area and served as a general store, restaurant, post office and dormitory.
The Old Store was located on the banks of the Estero River and was in use until construction of the New Store and burned down in 1938.
Damkohler Cottage was built by Gustave Damkohler in 1882 with one room and was the first building to be constructed. This was the location where Dr. Teed stayed during his first visit to the site.
Bamboo Landing was constructed to receive visitors and freight that arrived fromthe river. The pier was also used as a stage for theatrical and orchestral performances.
The Victorian and Sunken Gardens were installed to showcase native and exotic plants that were imported by the Koreshans.
Hedwig Michel Gravesite is the final resting place of the last Koreshan to live at the settlement. Mrs. Michel arrived shortly after the death of Cyrus Teed and was responsible for a brief revival of the commune in the 1940s.
The Dining Hall. Although all that is left of the three-story building that served as a dining hall and girls’ dormitory, is the dining bell and three of the four foundation corner stones.
The Koreshan Bakery was built in 1903 and produced 500-600 loaves of bread per day. The bread was used by the commune and sold to the public in the general store.
Lillian “Vesta” Newcomb Cottage was the residence of long-time member, Lillian Newcomb and built in 1920. Originally serving as home and office of Koreshan barber, Lou Stratton, the building was moved to its current location in the1930s.
Conrad Schlender Cottage was built in 1903 and moved to the settlement in the 1930s serving as a dormitory for the male members. It eventually became the home of Conrad Schlender one of the last remaining members of the settlement.
The Small Machine Shop was built in 1905 and used to produce small detailed products.
The Koreshan Laundry handled the washing, drying and ironing of all laundry for the settlement. Built in 1903, the laundry was eventually demolished.
The Large Machine Shop was a production shop for a variety of products and materials needed by the settlement. Built in 1904, it was powered by a steam engine which also powered the adjacent laundry.
The Generator Building housed the electrical alternator, generator and power source for the community. It also provided power for the nearby communities until 1916 when Florida Power and Light assumed the task.
Of course, because of Covid restrictions, the buildings were not open, and tours were temporarily suspended. We were, however, able to peer into the windows of each and get a glimpse of what life was like for the commune members.
While most visitors to Fort Myers lean toward more popular attractions such as the Edison Ford Winter Estates and the miles of white sand beaches, this is one that shouldn’t be missed. An important part of southwest Florida’s history, it is an attraction that was truly enlightening and worth the spontaneous side trip!
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Admission: $5.00 per vehicle (two to eight people), $4.00, single-occupant vehicle, $2.00 pedestrians, bicyclists, extra passengers, passengers in vehicle with holder of Annual Individual Entrance Pass.
While visiting a friend who had recently relocated to Southwest Florida, she mentioned that she had not seen one alligator since she had been there.
Now, to some people, that might not be such a bad thing, but everyone knows that alligators outnumber people in many parts of the state, so it was quite surprising that she had not seen even one.
Maybe she wasn’t looking in the right places?
During a spring trip to Fort Myers, I was looking for something to occupy my morning. Something that would give me a bit of exercise and yet, give me something to write about. After a few internet searches and scouring my trusty Google Maps, I found that “something” just off of Six Mile Cypress Parkway.
The Six Mile Cypress Slough Preserve (pronounced sloo) is a wetland ecosystem comprised of over 3,500 acres with a boardwalk trail, Interpretive Center and amphitheater. This slough catches and slowly filters rainwater which then makes its way to Estero Bay and provides a habitat for fish, alligators and birds. This slice of nature, conveniently located only `15 minutes from downtown Fort Myers, offers visitors the opportunity to view wildlife from an elevated boardwalk snaking through the preserve.
Heading out early that morning, I secured a place to park in the already crowded lot, tightened the laces on my walking shoes and prepared for a long walk…
Parking lot sculpture
What I soon discovered was that the name is a little misleading. Named for the highway that it is located off of, Six Mile Cypress Parkway, I thought that it meant that I was going to find six miles of boardwalk. Silly me. After studying the map at the entrance, I learned that the boardwalk was only 1.2 miles long. Nevertheless, I was interested in what I might find, and the regulations sign informed me (see number 4) that jogging, and power walking are not permitted on the boardwalk. So much for my exercise regimen that day…
Since I am originally from the great state of Louisiana, I am accustomed to seeing moss-covered cypress trees, muddy water, wading birds and even the occasional alligator, so this was nothing new for me. However, one never knows what Mother Nature might throw out at them and there is something unique in every swamp setting. Definitely a lot of beauty would be here in the preserve, you just need to know where to look and what to look for.
The boardwalk was well maintained and actually quite busy for a weekday morning. As I made my way around, I discovered shelters offering information on the slough and its residents, photo blinds and seating areas throughout, making it easy to relax and enjoy (and capture) the scenery. Immediately, I noticed a group of white birds wading in the murky waters, hunting for their breakfast among the hundreds of cypress knees. Admiring the flora and fauna, I slowly made my way from pond to pond…Pop Ash, Otter, Wood Duck…hoping to catch a glimpse of some of their inhabitants, but it wasn’t until I reach the Gator Lakes that I actually saw some movement.
Eyes and ridged back barely visible amongst the lily pads, a small gator slowly made his way around the lake, possibly hoping for his own meal. A little further away, I noticed another as well as a few turtles sunning themselves on a log. Amusing as it was for me to listen to some of the other visitors gasping at this tiny four-foot gator, I had to remind myself that while I had grown up seeing monster-sized alligators while we fished in the backwaters of Louisiana, this may have been some visitor’s first time seeing one in the wild.
My time in the preserve was rather short, as 1.2 miles doesn’t require a lot of time to cover, even with photo stops and time for nature spotting, but it provided a nice and inexpensive outing. Lee County residents should be commended for petitioning to raise their own taxes back in 1976 to raise the funds to protect the slough as a preserve and provide it free of charge for visitors. Another similar sanctuary in nearby Naples, a little larger in size, is owned by the Audubon Society, but charges a heft entry fee.
Take my advice, enjoy what the residents worked hard to preserve and spend some time in Lee County. As I told my friend, “Go to the Slough Preserveand find your gator!Do the Slough (Sloo)!”
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In 1885, Thomas Edison headed to south Florida, seeking a respite from the harsh winters. His friend, Henry Ford followed 31 years later and moved in next door!
This past spring, I found myself in Fort Myers, doing the exact same thing…seeking a respite from the remnants of winter’s wrath. Between trips to the beach and time lounging in the warm sunshine, I found myself wanting to see what it was that lured Edison and his family, and later, Henry Ford, to the area. I headed downtown to the National Register Historic Site, Edison and Ford Winter Estates.
What I found at the most visited historic home site in America (besides long lines and a hefty admission fee) was twenty acres of historical buildings and gardens including the 1928 Edison Botanical Research Laboratory.
After purchasing my admission, I followed the masses across McGregor Boulevard and began my explorations.
Starting my self-guided tour on the northeast side of the property, I visited the Caretakers’ Cottage. The cottage, which now offers various exhibits throughout the year, was one of the oldest buildings in Fort Myers when Thomas Edison arrived. Designed in the “cracker” style, it was originally used by cattlemen as they drove their herds south. The house was renovated and expanded to include a kitchen, garage and chauffeur’s quarters, making it comfortable for the caretakers who lived on-site year-round. On this day, I found the structure to be devoid of its original furnishings, but filled with an interesting display of furniture and artwork created from the wood of trees destroyed by Hurricane Irma in 2017.
Thomas Edison’s Caretakers’ Cottage
Exhibit in the Caretakers’ Cottage
Continuing my walk through the beautifully landscaped property and the Moonlight Garden, I found Edison’s study which was built in 1928 and was the site of many experiments, including underwater telegraphy. The laboratory originally contained equipment for mechanical and chemical experiments and many elements from his various companies. Eventually, his laboratory was sold to Henry Ford and moved to his collection of historic buildings at Greenfield Village in Dearborn, Michigan.
Thomas Edison’s StudyThomas Edison’s Study and the Moonlight GardenMoonlight Garden
Just across the pathway from Edison’s study, I discovered the place where the family, no doubt, spent much of their time…the swimming pool. One of the first residential pools constructed in the area, the 50’ x 20’ pool was built in 1910. A few years later, a changing room, shower and Tea House were added. As I stood in the heat of the day, I must admit, it still looked pretty inviting!
Swimming Pool Complex
Following the path along the Caloosahatchee River, I reveled in the cool breeze and stopped to inspect the remnants of the pier which had been constructed to bring in building materials needed for the estate’s creation. The river walk path, lined with tall, regal palms and lush greenery led to the property belonging to Henry Ford. In 1914, the Ford family (Henry, Clara and their son Edsel) was invited by the Edison’s for a visit. Finding the climate and area (as well as the company) to be enjoyable, they purchased the home adjacent to the Edison estate. The Mangoes, as it was named by the Fords, was built in the Craftsman architectural style and featured two stories.
PierRiverwalk
On the southwestern side of the property, I first investigated the Ford Caretaker’s Cottage, originally a garage and residence. Today, it caters to visitors of the estate and offers locally made ice cream, books and gifts as well as a place to sit and cool off. Another garage, to the rear of the main house, provided a look at five of Ford’s beautifully crafted automobiles.
Henry Ford’s Caretakers’ Cottage
Ford’s Automobile Garage
Ford’s Citrus Grove
Finally, with a quick peek at Ford’s citrus grove, I made my way to Henry Ford’s main house. Built in 1911, the American bungalow was constructed with a wide covered porch from which I and other visitors could peer into the opened, plexi-glass covered doorways of the home. The cypress ceiling with decorative beams held court over the interior accoutrements, although I was to understand that most of the furnishings on display were not original, except for the grandmother clock in the living room.
Henry Ford’s Winter Estate Main House
Henry Ford’s Winter Estate Main House
Henry Ford’s Winter Estate Main HouseHenry Ford’s Winter Estate Main House
Strolling by Clara Ford’s Michigan Rose Garden, I then had an outstanding view of the front of the Edison home, fronted by a row of majestic palms. Before heading to the porch, however, I strolled down Orchid Lane and the Friendship Walk. The lane was developed as a natural path from the mango trees that formed a line down both properties. Many orchid plants were grown here and the stones that gave sustenance to the path were quite interesting with each being a gift to the Edisons from friends, family and local community members and leaders. Started in 1928, with a stone from Hamilton Holt, the president of Rollins College in Winter Park, Florida, the pathway continued to evolve with stones, fifty in all, in memory of family members, ideologies and causes.
Clara Ford’s Michigan Rose Garden
Friendship WalkClara Ford’s Michigan Rose Garden
Making my way back to the Edison main house, I was able to examine the family’s pride and joy…the Seminole Lodge.
Edison’s Guest House and Main House, Seminole Lodge
Divided into two sections, it was interesting to contemplate the thought process involved in its design. Originally, the main house included a kitchen and dining room, however in 1906, the Edison family purchased the guesthouse, originally owned by a business associate, to house their frequent guests, including Henry Ford, Harvey Firestone, President-elect Herbert Hoover, and many others. The guest house offered a sitting room, dining room, kitchen, guest bedrooms and quarters for serving staff. The original design of the main house included a kitchen and dining room, however, with the addition of the guest cottage to the main structure, the family remodeled the main house to offer a library, a study, Edison’s den and serve as family bedroom suites, using the kitchen and dining in the guest house.
Edison’s Guest House and Main House, Seminole LodgeEdison Guest HouseWalkway between Edison Guest House and Main House
Again, we were allowed to walk on the ample covered porches and peer through the plexi-glass blocked doorways, but it was wonderful to learn that nearly all of the furnishings in the Edison main house and guest house are original to the Edison family. There were many cozy seating areas on the porch and it was assured that many a fishing tale was told here when the men returned from their days at sea. On the wall above one of the seating areas, I spied a mounted tarpon. It was amusing to read about Charles Edison’s story as to how he gaffed a 110-pound tarpon (his first), while his dad, out in a larger boat upriver, excitedly brought back his first tarpon, only to discover he had been out-fished by his son!
Edison Main HouseEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and GardensEdison Ford Winter Estate Grounds and Gardens
I continued to enjoy the estate grounds until I decided to make my way back to the visitor center. Although I had assumed that my tour was over, in the attached building, I discovered the museum displaying a wide assortment of machinery, Edison inventions, fishing gear along with a depiction of the pier that originally stood behind the houses, statues of both Thomas Edison and his wife, Mary, furniture and many of Henry Ford’s automobiles. I studied as many as I could of the exhibits and artifacts before making my way through Thomas Edison’s Machine Shop.
Edison Ford Winter Estate MuseumEdison Ford Winter Estate MuseumEdison Ford Winter Estate MuseumEdison Ford Winter Estate Museum
I stood looking at the tables filled with beakers and lab equipment and it was truly awe-inspiring to think of the ideas conceived and executed here. If it not for Thomas Edison, we might possibly be using candles during the nighttime hours and if it were not for Henry Ford, everyday travel as we know it, would not exist.
Edison’s Machine Shop and Laboratory
As I got back into my car to head back to my hotel room, where I turned on my lights, I realized that today, I had stood where these great men stood, saw where they worked and enjoyed what they got to enjoy, even if just during the winter.
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