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As you walk onto the central market square in Haarlem, you are greeted with an impressive site and an important landmark…the Gothic-style St. Bavo’s Church.
Having visited this church once before, I was anxious to set foot inside and rephotograph the interior and gaze upon one of the things I most wanted to see again, the Muller organ.
One of the most historically important organs, it was decorated by artist Jan Van Logteren and built by Amsterdam organ builder, Christian Muller between 1735 and 1738. At its completion, it was the largest organ in the world, played by many famous musicians including Mendelssohn, Handel and Mozart, at the early age of 10, and described by Herman Melville in the book, Moby Dick:
“Seeing all these colonnades of bone so methodically ranged about, would you not think you were inside of the great Haarlem organ, and gazing upon its thousand pipes?”
Though I have yet to be present for one of the concerts held regularly in the church, it is something that I aspire to attend in the future as all through the year, special opening times are organized so that the public can walk in free of charge to listen to the famous organ in action.
Originally a Catholic cathedral consecrated in 1559, St-Bavokerk was converted to Protestantism in 1958. Walking through the interior of the church, it is hard to fathom that this expansive church was once a Catholic cathedral. Lacking the embellished ornamentation that you usually find in most cathedrals, the only commonality would be the stained glass windows, however, the lack thereof is a source of interest. Haarlem was once an important center for stained glass in the 16th century, however, many of the original windows, have been lost to neglect. Today, the lack of historic, colorful windows has been remedied by installing windows from other, demolished or defunct churches. In addition, modern artists have created new pieces…a beautiful, large blue window hangs on the northern side and can be seen when entering the double doors on the Groenmarkt and was created by local glass artist Michel van Overbeeke.
Throughout the church’s floor, a large number of carvings can be seen marking the graves of many illustrious Haarlemers. Until 1831, graves were allowed within the church and many plaques hanging on the walls represent the shields of illustrious families and mark the family’s graves below them. Many famous people are buried in individual graves within the church such as Pieter Teyler van der Hulst and Willen van Heythuisen. Other notorious burials include painters Frans Hals and Maarten van Heemskerck and two circus curiosities, the giant Danial Cajanus and his midget friend Jan Paap.
Lastly, moving from the interior to the market square, take in the Gothic exterior and the low buildings built up against it, most notably the former fish market, De Vishal, now used for modern art exhibitions. The most striking piece of architecture is the Grote Kerk Tower which houses a big bourdon bell that sounds on the hour. A short tune is also played every seven and half minutes. Other bells include a carillon which is played weekly on market days. On Tuesdays in the summer, a concert of the carillon is held just before the weekly organ concert.
After your visit, step out into the Grote Markt and take in the statue of Laurens Janszoon Coster, the inventor of a printing press from Haarlem, believed to have done so simultaneously with Johannes Gutenberg (see my post, Germany, Mainz, Museum Time in Mainz). Grab a bite to eat at the many resturants that line the square and check out the many things to see in the history rich city.
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St. Bavo’s Church (Grote Kerk)
- http://www.bavo.nl/
- Address: Grote Markt 22 (noordzijde), 2011 RD Haarlem
- Hours: Monday through Saturday, 1000-1700, August and September, also Sundays 1200-1700
- Admission: Adults, €2.50, Youth (12-16 years), €11.25, Children (0-12 years), free, Guided Tour, Adults, €5.00
One of the most notable items in the church is the memorial shield on the left nave wall, which is a symbolic mark of the grave of the famous Dutch painter, Rembrandt. Living nearby at Rozengracht 184 in extreme poverty, he was buried in an unmarked church grave with several other people in the church. The exact location of his grave remains unknown.
Other things that you can check out in the immediate area are the Anne Frank statue located on the Westermarkt and the entrance to the Prinsenhuis, which once served as the entrance to the Westerkerk. The Lord Mayor’s gate is still visible on the Westermarkt side of the church and was once used as a shortcut for the mayors of the city to reach their private stall inside the church (directly opposite the pulpit). The Homomonument is also a popular tourist attraction, commemorating all gay men and lesbians who have been subjected to persecution because of their homosexuality and is located behind the church, at the corner of the Westermarkt and Keizergracht.
Paying our entrance fees, we began the arduous climb (over 300 steps) to the top of the Dome. Though I had to stop a few times and my legs were quite shaky, we reached the top and Oh! What a view!
Deciding on a boat ride down the Seine, we were on our return when I noticed that we were approaching the Pont D’Alma bridge. Taking to the top deck, I watched for the Musée des Égouts’ kiosk…the window was open and there was a small line!
Taking a walk towards the Eiffel Tower, it was almost lunch time. Grabbing sandwiches, our plan was to take the next departure on the closest boat company, Bateaux Parisiennes, and have our lunch on the boat…only, our plan did not work. We just missed the boat and had to eat our lunch while waiting for the next one to depart. Lesson learned…make sure you know the departure times.
Boarding the Bateaux Parisiennes boat, I was quite impressed with the accommodations. Instead of rows of seats, all facing foward, there were small seating areas near the windows and a raised row of seats at the center to accommodate larger crowds, all covered in a nice, light-colored woodgrain. Many television monitors were strategically placed throughout the boat showing upcoming scenery and retractable handsets offered a detailed commentary of the passing attractions. A stairway at the center of the boat led to the top of the boat where benches lined the exterior for those (like us) willing the brave the misty afternoon. There was also a vending area at the rear of the bottom level with soft drinks and snacks available and the boat was extremely neat and clean.
Wandering along the avenues and pathways within the cemetery and its moss-covered tombs, I soon passed the main gate. Checking the posted map again, I began my search for Jim Morrison’s grave. Walking uphill and minding my steps on the cobblestones in the misty afternoon, I found the masses of gravesites and lack of signage quite confusing. Noticing the number of other people seemingly heading the same direction, I continued my quest. Finally, spotting a large group and their tour guide, one pathway over, I realized that I had found my destination.
Having heard tales of long lines, I was prepared for a bit of a wait, however, being four o’clock on a winter’s afternoon, it was not busy at all. Making our way through the maze of roped off areas and security to the ticket counter, we soon had tickets in hand and were on our way to the elevator and the long ride to the top.
inal documents, period photographs, architectural sketches, construction notes and photos walk visitors through the creation of the iconic skyscraper. It is here where you get your first glimpses of Manhattan from a bird’s eye view through the large windows that line this floor.
Taking the elevator, once again, we reached the 86th floor Observatory. When people imagine visiting the Empire State Building, this is what they think of…the wrap-around deck that gives 360 degree open-air views of the Big Apple.
Since we had been out walking most of the day, we decided that it would be nice to relax on one of the boat tours. Booking a five o’clock departure, we had hoped to be completed in order to have an early dinner. Starting out near the front of Central Station, we cruised along the front of the station and out into the IJ before circling back to our starting point. Finally, we headed into the canals and admired the beautiful pieces along the way.
The pulpit, an elaborately designed piece by Pierre Elysee van den Bossche highlights the left of the structure as well as the 19th century Sauer organ at the rear of the church. The German organ was built in 1889 and attracts large numbers of world renowned organists from around the world during the International Organ Concert Series every summer. These musicians treasure the opportunity to not only enjoy the music from this magnificent instrument, but to perform on it as well.
