The Sneaky Monkey Lodge

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Glancing out from our table in the restaurant, it wasn’t uncommon to see animals wandering by and stopping to quench their thirst at the watering hole located adjacent to our lodge….

The Serengeti Sopa Lodge.

Located 45 minutes from the Seronera Airstrip and 319 kilometers from Arusha, the Serengeti Sopa Lodge is located in the Nyarboro Hills, overlooking the plains of the southwestern Serengeti National Park.

It had been a full day, having risen early, flown to the Serengeti and already seen a myriad of animals.  It was nice to arrive at our lodge and be greeted with cool towels and fruity drinks to quench our thirst.

As we entered our spacious, tastefully furnished rooms, we admired the local fabrics and artwork and the small, entrance area sitting room, complete with mini refrigerator and mini bar.  Painted in earthy tones, our room contained two queen sized-beds surrounded by flowing mosquito nets and a colossal bathroom.  Stepping out onto the balcony, we admired the view of the plains below.  It was amazing!  We were smack dab in the middle of the famed Serengeti!

Below us, various antelope strolled through the trees and above us, monkeys swung from branch to branch, occasionally dropping onto nearby balconies and peeking into the lodge’s rooms.  So fearless they seemed, we wondered if they might jump into your lap while relaxing on the balcony!

During the three days that the lodge was our home, we came to appreciated its open and airy floor plan filled with large comfortable chairs made of driftwood, with huge cushions and colorful throw pillows.

Our assigned tables in the dining room were perched on the balcony allowing us to look out over the Serengeti while we enjoyed the prefix menus and bountiful buffets.  My husband, a picky eater, thought that he might lose some weight during our adventure, but after viewing the lavish spreads, he realized that all was lost!  The food was so delicious and offered something to satisfy everyone’s palate.

The service was beyond anything we could have ever imagined.  Each and every one of the employees of the Serengeti Sopa Lodge did everything to make our stay beyond magnificent.  After discovering a breakfast doughnut, resembling something my late grandmother made for me as a child, one of the workers recorded the recipe and brought it to me on my last day!  I can’t wait to try it!

And…after long days on the bumpy roads of the Serengeti, it was always nice to relax at the bar for a cold beer or tasty cocktail.  The bar, located in the corner of the lowest level, offered an open terrace with comfortable chairs and heaters for the chilly nights.

It was here that we learned a story about the sneaky monkeys!

Although we would have loved to have left our veranda doors open for ventilation and there was a screened door, we adhered to the warnings about the keeping the doors closed.  On many occasions, we spotted the local monkeys peering through the glass or taking naps on our balconies.  We joked that the monkeys were casing the joint!

I had also heard stories about monkeys grabbing purses and cameras from unsuspecting tourists and had had my hat stolen by a monkey in Thailand.  I knew what they were capable of…our doors were staying locked!

Well, one of the sneaky monkeys, had apparently been casing our neighbors room.  As she stepped out onto her balcony to admire the sunset, she neglected to shut the screen door behind her.  Realizing his opportunity, the monkey jumped onto the balcony and dashed past her into her room.  Grabbing all of the sugars from her mini bar, he ran past her and jumped onto her neighbors balcony, appearing to mock her as she screamed for help!

SO traumatized by her experience, she definitely had to retire to the bar for a drink to calm her nerves!

Lesson learned, watch out for monkeys!

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Serengeti Sopa Lodge

 

 

 

 

The Endless Plains

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The Seregeti.

Covering almost 30,000 square kilometers with its location in northern Tanzania and Kenya, the Serengeti’s wildlife and scenery is beyond anything imaginable. As far as the eye can see, the Serengeti spreads out…offering nature’s magnificence….the endless plains.

Disembarking from our aircraft, we stepped into the bright sunshine and were greeted by our safari guide, Fahad.  This was the person that we would come to rely on for the next week as our driver, our guide, our teacher and more importantly, our friend.  As he accompanied us to the front of the small terminal, our baggage was loaded and we were introduced to our safari vehicle, Mathilda.

Into Mathilda we climbed, the five of us taking one of the six seats in the back.  The roof was raised and we were on our way, scanning the horizon and observing the Thompson’s gazelles that grazed just across the road.  This was it!  Our first sighting on the Serengeti!  So, they weren’t one of the Big Five…but it was just the beginning!

Turning left onto one of the many roads that criss-crossed the park,  we bumped along, spotting other vehicles in the distance.  As we slowed, we noticed movement near a patch of acacia trees…a herd of elephants!  Slowly they ambled along, two youngsters with four older females.  We watched them slowly until continuing further down the road.  Here, we encountered another herd, and this one came extremely close to Mathilda!

What a start!

During the next few hours, we encountered warthogs, giraffes, lions, cape buffalo, monkeys, and hippos!  We even spotted a cheetah holding court on a termite hill and a leopard resting on a large branch as well as countless birds flitting about and resting in the brush.

By the time we had reached the Serengeti Sopa Lodge, we had already spotted FOUR of the Big Five!

After checking into our accommodations, we enjoyed a delicious lunch and a small amount of time to unpack and freshen up.   Four o’clock rolled around and it was time for our evening game drive.  Not having to venture extremely far from our lodge, we saw many more of the same animals as earlier, however, the highlight of the late afternoon was finally seeing a large dazzle of zebra!

The next two days were filled with game drives beginning early in the day.  We spotted hyena, dik dik, baboons, ostriches, hartebeests, secretary birds, guinea fowl, impala and many other elephants, giraffes, cape buffalo, cheetahs, zebras, and lions.  In fact, the Serengeti should be named the land of the lion…they are quite plentiful and we were excited to spot them on many occasions.

The Serengeti is not all about wildlife viewing, though, that is what most people come for.  There are some other places of interest in the park which help to break up the day and give everyone some time to stretch their legs and enjoy a respite from the bumpy roads.

The Serengeti Visitor’s Center, located in the heart of the Serengeti, is set in alluring natural rock formations (Kopjes).  A guided or self-guided walk offers a wide range of up-to-date information on the Serengeti ecosystem.  The beautiful trail is lined with exhibits on the Serengeti’s history, ecology, people and conservation and hundreds of rock hyrax resting on the walls.

The Michael Grzimek Memorial Rhino Post is a ranger post in the Moru Kopjes.  It’s conservation project has a goal to protect and monitor the remaining Serengeti black rhinos, provide sound biological management to its population and to secure the Moru area for the introduction of additional rhinos.  While the Serengeti was once home to approximately 1000 black rhinos, poaching reduced the population dramatically.  The Rhino Post, named after Michael Grzimek, who fought to protect the rhino, offers a small hut detailing information on its conservation efforts.

Another interesting stop is at the sound rocks of the Moru Kopjes.  Here you can hike to the top of a rock mass where several ancient boulders produce mellow notes when tapped with smaller stones.  Whether once used as instruments or a method of communication, it is now a interesting stop for visitors…and the views aren’t so bad either!

Some of the most memorable moments of our time in the Serengeti were watching a coalition of cheetah relaxing under a tree, a large male lion lounging near the roadway and who later joined his black maned brother in a search for their next meal, being charged by an enormous, tusked elephant, lunch in the middle of the Serengeti under a sausage tree and beautiful African sunsets.

Trying to explain to our family what we were seeing every day was extremely difficult.  So surreal were our experiences, we were giddy with excitement even when exhausted from the long days.  Absorbing all of the information that Fahad gave us was sometimes overwhelming, but always impressive…that man knew something about everything!  Driving along, he never failed to miss things even far out in the distance!

The most memorable times, however, were when Fahad received a call on his radio and began to drive extremely fast.  We knew that something good was in store!

Nicknaming him “Fishtail Freddy”, we joked that Fahad was on a mission…sometimes a “mission impossible”.  After downloading the Mission Impossible theme song, we would play it for him to inspire him and assist his driving skills!  On our last day, shortly after the charging elephant, Fahad picked up the radio, listened and began to drive quickly.  Turning on our theme song, it was just finishing as we pulled up to five other safari vehicles lining the side of the road.  Here, we found out what the fast driving and fishtailing had brought us to.

In the distance, there was not one…but two black rhino!  The last of our Big Five!

We often joked that our wonderful Fahad, many times over, gave us Serengeti ice cream, Serengeti sauce, Serengeti nuts and, often, Serengeti whipped cream…now he had given us the Serengeti cherry!

What a way to end our time in the Endless Plains!

 

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Serengeti

Safari Express

Ranger Safaris

  • http://www.rangersafaris.com/

 

 

Time For Me To Fly

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

A safari.

Traveling all the way to Tanzania was not for museums, markets or the beautiful Arusha hotel, however much we enjoyed them. Though we appreciated our short stay in Arusha and many things that it had to offer, it was time to go.  Time for the real deal.

Since I was a child,  watching Mutual of Omaha’s Wild Kingdom, I had been fascinated by the places and animals that its host, Marlon Perkins encountered each week.  I was particularly enthralled by Africa, a land so colorful and filled with people and creatures that were such a contrast to what my young eyes beheld every day.  Though I was from a small town, and travel was not part of our every day lives, I knew that one day, I would manage to make the long journey and set my feet upon this vast continent’s ground.

Life as a flight attendant offers many opportunities to see the world.  Any occasion that I was able to secure, to see every city that my airline offered, I took.  I particularly enjoyed my travels to Africa.  Ghana was my first foray and I loved the people, the culture, the food and the landscape.  It was succeeded by trips to Senegal, Liberia, Nigeria and South Africa.  Though I was able to go to the famed Lion Park in Johannesburg, play with the baby cubs and drive through their sanctuary and even do a game drive in Senegal at the private Bandia reserve, eastern Africa eluded me.  A safari where I stayed in the parks, able to watch the wildlife from the lodges was what I wanted to do.

For my landmark 50th birthday, I promised myself that a safari trip was what I wanted most. Booking the adventure took place seven months ahead and the wait was almost unbearable, but eventually I found myself in Kenya and then Tanzania.

Leaving early from our hotel, we made our way to the Arusha Airport.  An extremely small airport with mostly small aircraft, it was surprising to hear that a couple of our travel companions had arrived here from Amsterdam on a Boeing 777.  Wow!

After our arrival and making our way through security, we stood alongside the runway awaiting our aircraft assignments.

Soon, we were boarding one of Shine Aviation’s Cessnas and rocketing down the runway.  Arusha’s dense landscape spread out before us giving way to mountains and gorges.  Although we were told that on some days, Kilimanjaro is visible, unfortunately, we did not have the pleasure.  We settled in for the hour flight and before long, the landscape became more barren.  I was mesmerized by the Maasai villages that were discernible here and there along our flight path.

As we descended, small animals dotted the landscape and the landing field appeared before us.  Lower and lower, our aircraft dropped until we were bumping along the Seronera airstrip.  Finally, I had made it.

 

The Seregeti!

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Arusha Regional Airport

Shine Aviation

Seronera Airstrip

 

One Stop Shop

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

For those who do not appreciate haggling in the local African markets…

The Cultural Heritage Center is the place for you!

Located in the outskirts of Arusha, the Cultural Heritage Center is equal parts gallery, market and food venue and the perfect location to spend a day in Arusha!

The Cultural Heritage Center offers genuine African antiques and handicrafts, a spice store, a Maasai hut, leather shop, bead shop, clothing stores and Tanzanite jewelry.  Products are offered without the hassle of bartering for set prices and many items are available for any budget.

Numerous demonstrations are also performed throughout the day, illustrating the different skills required to manufacture the various pieces created and sold throughout Africa.

One of the largest art galleries on the continent and a modern, architectural marvel, the gallery has many levels that will amaze you with it’s beautiful pieces available to both ponder and help you part with your shillings.  Masks, furniture, artwork and artifacts from all parts of Africa decorate each level and are guaranteed to amaze!  Be sure to give yourself ample time to explore it in its entirety.

 

We especially enjoyed the astonishing sculptures that decorate the grounds.  If you are searching for unique cast pieces, this is your place…a real outdoor museum.  Admire them or have one shipped home!

Another area we especially enjoyed was the mask shop.  Masks from all parts of Africa decorate the walls, each with a description of the country it hailed from and the tribe that created it.  As an avid collector of masks, this was especially enlightening and although they were much beyond my price range, they were quite fascinating.

The perfect place to spend the greater part of the day, all of your shopping needs can be met at the Cultural Heritage Center.  Once your retail therapy has been satisfied, reward yourself with a selection of mouth-watering delicacies and snacks from the on-site restaurant or have a coffee on the terrace.

After the intense bartering we experienced in the local Maasai market, it was refreshing to walk around and enjoy the well-maintained grounds and browse the plenitude of well-made items available for sale at our leisure.  Make sure to allow time during your visit to Arusha to stop in and check out this modern foundation.

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Cultural Heritage Center

 

 

 

 

The Swahili Word For Bead

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

In 2007, a local resident of Arusha, seeking to produce a unique product for a Christmas fair, paired local fabric with beads and her son’s marbles.  The result was a product so popular that she sold out immediately and calls began coming in from all over the country and world asking her to make more.

Realizing an opportunity to employ a deaf woman that she knew, they soon were selling the celebrated necklaces from her backyard.  From this enterprise, the first Shanga workshop was established.

Yes, “Shanga” is the Swahili word for bead!

Over the years, other products were added to the line which utilized recycled and sustainable materials when possible.  Many other persons with disabilities were hired and visitors were encouraged to come and not only purchase the products, but meet the inspiring staff.

The Elewana Arusha Coffee Lodge, located near the Arusha Airport, is the current home for Shanga and has become a popular tourist destination.  Here, you can watch the artisans in their open workshops as they weave, sew, paint, make beads, work with metal and blow glass.  Truly an inspiring visit!

Looking for a large market in the area, we had taken a cab to Shanga.  Upon our arrival, we were greeted by a guide who inquired as to whether we had any questions.  Not quite sure what was expected of us, we opted to walk around and check out the premises on our own.

It was extremely heartening to watch each of the artisans creating something uniquely their own.  Many were a bit shy before my camera, but others very eager to show off as they constructed their wares.  Most impressive were the glass blowers, standing in the heat of their furnace and manipulating the molten glass in to beautiful vases and ornaments.

Many activities are available while visiting Shanga.  In addition to visiting the Shanga Shop to purchase the many unique items produced on the premises, you can “try” your hand at glass blowing, make your own necklace, attend a Maasai beading workshop, take a sign language lesson or attend a Q & A discussion on disabilities and recycling in Tanzania.  Make sure to speak with the guide upon arrival for arrangements.

After your visit, have a bite to eat at one of the Arusha Coffee Lodge dining venues!  A great way to top off the day!

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Shanga

  • http://www.shanga.org/
  • Address:  Arusha Coffee Lodge, Dodoma Road, (near Arusha Airport), Arusha, Tanzania
  • Hours:  0900-1630, daily
  • Admission:  free

 

 

 

 

Down Boma Road

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Tanzania has a fascinating history.

In 1899, the Germans began constructing a boma or strong fortification in Arusha.  The Maasai people were conscripted to complete this task while the new colonists surveyed the work site on horseback. Those not working as as swiftly as deemed necessary welcomed whippings and severe punishment.  Resentment ensued and after a Maasai tossed his master into the river, many Maasai went into hiding, fearing the consequences.  A local Maasai chief was sent to find them and act as mediator.  He explained that they could return to work with no ramifications.  As the approximately 400 Maasai marched back into town, down Boma Road, they were all gunned down.  A bloody beginning for the German edifice.

The boma was completed in 1900 and became a barracks for 150 Nubian soldiers.  Later, the fortification was made the regional government offices until 1934, when it was turned into the Arusha Museum of Natural History.

Today, the boma still stands strong on Boma Road as the Museum of Natural History.  Those wishing to enlighten themselves on Tanzania’s natural wonders can also educate themselves on Tanzania’s turbulent history.

Though the museum is not teeming with high tech displays, it is extremely informative and can be navigated with the help of a guide (if so desired). Take the time to read the displays and investigate the numerous artifacts available…you won’t be disappointed.

The museum divided into three different areas.  The wing dedicated to the evolution of humans is quite fascinating as much of what the world knows about the topic comes from fossils unearthed in Tanzania, including the findings from the Olduvai Gorge and the Laetoli footprints. On display are many incredible early hominid fossils, including Australopithecines, Homo erectus, and Homo habilis skulls, and stone hand axes from Olduvai Gorge.  Illustrations, facts and Neanderthal displays highlight the building.  In addition, there are many displays of insects and amazing photos of plants and animals by photographer Dick Persson.

The second building is dedicated to the history of the German colonial regime in Northern Tanzania.  There are many photos and displays pertaining to this period and to Tanzania’s struggle for independence.

The third building offers more animal pictures and facts about the origin of man.  Here, you can see taxidermists at work as well as a vast array of their endeavors on the walls.  We loved seeing these up close as a precursor to our expedition.

On the side and rear of the property you can find a couple of indigenous snakes  and many native plants and trees in the botanical garden.

Be sure to check out the artists and shops at the far end of the grounds.  There are many items for sale and you can watch the artisans at work.  Paintings, clothing items, carvings, jewelry are all available in a no hassle atmosphere.  Take your time walking around and watch them create their wares.  If you so desire, you can even take a painting lesson!  Now that would be an impressive souvenir!

The museum is situated at the end of the Boma road neighboring the Arusha International Conference Center, the Arusha Municipal Council, and the Arusha Regional Offices and is easy to find navigating from the clock tower.  Definitely an enlightening visit!

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Arusha Natural History Museum

  • http://eol.habari.co.tz/museum.htm
  • Address: Located at the end of the Boma road neighboring the Arusha International Conference Center, the Arusha Municipal Council, and the Arusha Regional Offices.
  • Hours:  0900-1800
  • Admission:  $5.00

 

The Tanzanite Experience

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

An ancient story from Tanzania, tells a story of how the local Maasai saw a bolt of lightening come down from the sky and strike all of the rocks on the ground turning them to a shimmering blue.

Tanzanite.

As a jewelry enthusiast, diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and rubies were the extent of my gemstone knowledge.  I had heard of Tanzanite, but I’ve never owned any.  Come to think of it, where it originated had never even crossed my mind.

Where does it come from, you ask?  Well, if you’ve ever heard of Mount Kilimanjaro, then you know where it comes from!

Museums were not on my agenda for our visit to Arusha.  We knew that we wanted to see the town and visit the market, but when someone mentioned going to the Tanzanite museum, we decided, “Why not?”.

Located near the iconic clock tower in the center of town, the museum lies a couple of blocks away on India street.

Ascending three floors in the Blue Plaza, we patiently waited while the security guard stood at attention until we were buzzed into two sets of secure doorways.  Greeted enthusiastically by our guide Akiyo, we were offered light refreshments before beginning our tour.

Beginning with a brief introduction on where Tanzanite is found in one small area in the Mererani Hills in Northern Tanzania, at the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro, Akiyo then went on to explain how Tanzanite could once be collected on the surface.  Eventually, this scavenger mining gave way to pits and tunnels extending far beneath the earth’s surface.

Leading us into the Tanzanite Experience’s own “mine” in the museum, we were versed on the strict mining practices which are followed at their own mine located in Block D.

Exiting the “mine”, we were then instructed on the extensive education required to learn the procedures for proper cutting of Tanzanite.  Years of training prepares the gem cutter to cut the Tanzanite to the point that it can be certified as an “excellent cut” where the stone reflects light to create maximum brilliance.  This process of cutting plays a crucial role in displaying the true colors of the Tanzanite and its ability to show either blue or violet from different angles.  Though much of the raw Tanzanite mined is exported to Kenya, India and China for processing, the government is working to change this and keep processing in Tanzania.

Finally, we were shown different types of stones and the grading process was explained.  The Tanzanite Experience Museum is also home to the Tanzanite Laboratory where all the gemstones are expertly assessed before being made available for purchase.

After the tour, we were invited to browse the beautiful stones and stunning jewelry available for purchase.  Though no pressure was placed on us to purchase any pieces, we were encouraged to take our time and inspect any piece we thought worthy.

Thanking the staff for the amazing and informative tour, we made our way through the security doors and down the stairs to the street.  The Tanzanite Experience Museum was a surprising find!  It was exciting to learn something new, see this beautiful gemstone and understand its place in the world and its impact on the Tanzanian economy.

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Tanzanite Experience Museum

 

 

Adding to the Collections

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Santa Clauses, ornaments, nativity sets, tribal masks….

I collect a lot of things.

And yes, I love my souvenirs.  They don’t necessarily have to be expensive.  I just love looking around my home at the things I have collected from my travels and remembering the good times and also, sometimes the bad.

So, when I am traveling and someone tells me that there is a nice market nearby…I am there!

The Masai Market in Arusha was a short walk away from our hotel and seemed like a great way to spend the afternoon.  Since we were returning to the hotel at the end of our safari, we could purchase our mementos and gifts and leave them checked at the hotel in one of the spare bags that we had brought.

The market was found to be full of the kinds of items you would expect to find in Africa…masks, wood carvings, paintings, fabrics.  Though I have spent considerable time in other markets in Senegal, Ghana and South Africa, my husband had not.  A quick warning about letting me do the negotiations was in order.  I didn’t have to worry about him too much, however, I had all the money!

Needless to say, shopping in an African market can be a daunting task as there are so many people continually asking you to come into their shop.  “To look is free” they tell you, but once you’ve stepped inside, it’s quite hard to leave and get back on task.

Everything I needed was found in the Maasai Market…a mask for my collection, an elephant carving for my husband, t-shirts and a chess set for my sons, baskets for my mother and mother-in-law…but, I have to say, it was exhausting.  The shops in the front of the property were easy to peruse and the salespeople were not pushy, however, entering each alleyway, named after safari destinations in Tanzania, was like entering the land of no return.  The shops were many and the amount of merchandise immeasurable.  You could spend hours lost among the commodities!

When visiting an African market, here are some things to keep in mind.

Before heading to the market…divide your money and place it in different compartments in your wallet, purse or even your pants or jacket pockets.   Do not keep all of your money in one place.  When bargaining later, it helps to say, “this is all I have left, while pulling out a five-dollar bill from a compartment where it is apparent that there is nothing else there.  Believe me, they will watch.

Spend some time walking around the market getting a feel for what is available.  Many of the same types of items are available from many different artisans and some have perfected the item’s quality more than others.

When you see something you like, casually ask for the price, but never ask for the cost of something unless you have made up your mind that you really want to bargain for it.

Tanzanians readily accept U.S. dollars for purchases, however, ask for the price in shillings first, being prepared with the exchange rate.  Only then, ask for the cost in U.S. dollars if you plan to use dollars.  If you have a local friend or guide, take them with you and have them negotiate on your behalf.

Be very matter of fact when you state, “oh, I only have…”  Start with half of their price.

Act shocked at the price.  You might say that it “is much too high for your budget”, but don’t insult the artisan saying that the product “is not worth that much”.

Be prepared to walk away.  Chances are that once you are walking away, they will offer you a better price or the price you asked for.  Remember, there are other vendors with similar or same products.

Speak with the artisan about the item you are purchasing.  Find out what it is made from and how it was made.  Many artisans love to talk about their work and find out what you plan to do with it.  Once, in a woodworking village in Ghana, I was invited into many masks shops, offered tea and encouraged to watch the mask carvers progress with their works.  These masks that I purchased mean more to me, knowing that in some cases, these men had learned their trade from family members, sometimes at the early age of six.

If you are approached by someone other than a vendor in the market, engaging you in small talk and then asking you what you are looking for, don’t fall for it. They may seem friendly and “willing to show you around”, however, be wary. They may be seeking a commission from the artisan or expecting a tip from you or worse, trying to con you.  Be firm and insist that you are fine on your own.

Finally, enjoy yourself, try to enjoy the process and don’t beat yourself up too hard if you don’t get your price.  Sometimes you have to pay a bit more if there is something your really love!

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Maasai Market

  • Address:  School Road, Arusha, Tanzania.  Located about a quarter mile from The Arusha Hotel.
  • Hours:  No posted hours, but operates approximately from 0900 until 1800, daily.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Arusha, Here We Come!

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The prospect of getting to Africa is a daunting one!

Having booked our flights many months before, the time had finally come to pack our bags and make our way to the start of our safari.

Our flight from New York to Istanbul was uneventful, if not a long one.  Movies and a nap helped pass the time and I was quite comfortable in economy class with the help of my new neck pillow and foot sling.  Before long, we were landing in Turkey, gazing longingly at the skyline, wishing I had time to visit the Bazaar (how I miss Istanbul’s shopping!)  After a three hour sit, we boarded our plane and were landing in Kenya six hours later, making our way through customs and immigration quickly.

Since our arrival was at 2:30 in the morning and we were departing on the Riverside shuttle a short six hours later, we had a decision to make…find our way to a nearby airport hotel for a short nap and a shower or search for a quiet  corner to make ourselves comfortable for our brief stay.  Well, six hours isn’t that long, so we opted for the latter!

Making our way out of Terminal 1D, we began looking for a cafe that we could have a bite to eat and hang out.  Paul Caffe was near the main part of the airport, and after entering, we discovered that many other people were spending time and even taking naps (which the workers did not seem to mind).  Ordering a couple of sodas, we found a table with outlets nearby to charge our devices.  After having breakfast a little later, we found very clean bathrooms just around the corner and were able spread out our things, change clothes and take a quick sponge bath.

Nairobi Airport

Before we knew it, it was almost time to board our bus to Arusha.  Once we made a quick call to their airport contact to confirm our departure, we found that we were actually in the correct spot for Riverside’s pickup.  Peter met us inside of Paul Caffe around 8:30 a.m. and walked us out across the street to meet the waiting bus.

There are a few companies that offer shuttle transportation between Nairobi and Arusha.  We chose Riverside from a recommendation from a friend and because the price was higher than two of the others that I had investigated.  Believing the higher price made the product more desirable, we were a little disappointed to find the bus’ interior to be only adequate.  A few seats were available near the back of the bus and we found the ride to be a bit uncomfortable due to the lumpy seats and the many speed bumps along the highway.  Despite the cramped quarters, however, we were able to take a quick nap before arriving at a rest stop about three hours later.  Given ten minutes to use the facilities and get a drink, we even had time to peruse the many crafts available at the site.

Departing the rest stop, we soon found ourselves at the Namanga border crossing, about 120km from Arusha.  Ushered into the building and lined up against a wall, the process was a bit confusing.  A uniformed officer checked to ensure that each person had a yellow fever immunization card before allowing us to proceed to the window.  Since we had arrived into Kenya, the night before, we were quickly re-fingerprinted and stamped out.  Heading to the exit, we found our bus waiting for us and hastily dodged the numerous Masai women selling bracelets, necklaces and other items.  Driving around to the Tanzanian side of the border, we were required to claim our baggage from the bus and proceed into the building to clear immigration and customs.  Once again, our yellow fever immunizations cards were checked and we were ushered into one of the lines snaking through the new building.  At the window, our immigration forms (given to us by our driver) were handed to the agent and $100 (per person) was paid while our visa was pasted into our passports.  Though we were required to bring our baggage into the building, we were not required to pass it through the x-ray machines nor was it inspected.

Exiting the building, we were once again on our way to Arusha.  The whole process was completed in about an hour and not overly complicated, however, if traveling on your own, expect the border to be the busiest during the hours between 9:30-11:00 and 15:30-16:30 when the shuttle buses are passing through.  Chatting with other passengers and admiring the colorful Maasai villages helped to pass the time quickly and before long we were pulling into the Riverside bus stop.  Directed to board another bus with our luggage, we were then taken the final few blocks to the Arusha Hotel, our home for the next couple of days.

One of the oldest hotels in East Africa, the Arusha Hotel was established in 1894 in the then new and undeveloped town.  Over the years, the hotel was a haven for those traveling from Cairo to the Cape and beyond.  Enduring many changes and improvements over the years, the hotel has retained its status as one of Arusha’s grandest hotels, offering its foremost hospitality to many guests over the years, including the Prince of Wales, Baron Von Blixen and John Wayne, while filming Hatari.

We were extremely pleased to find the hotel beautiful and clean and its staff, most welcoming.  Our room was extremely comfortable and modern, though we had to have our lack of hot water addressed shortly after our arrival.  While waiting for our plumbing issue to be resolved, a short walk around the traffic circle to the small grocery store, directly across from the hotel, ensured that we could stock our refrigerator with soda, beer and have some snacks to munch on, before our nap.

An Airtel office, a block away, was also a convenient find.  Knowing that we would be restricted to WiFi in the lobbies of our lodges during our safari, adding a local sim card to my extra phone ensured that I could be reached in the event of an emergency.   It also allowed me to have access to the internet while we were out and about or in our room.

After a much needed shower and nap, we awakened feeling hungry, but not quite ready to tackle an unfamiliar city in the dark.  Deciding to visit the hotel’s dining room, we discovered that breakfast and dinner was included with our stay.  Usually, in these circumstances, one finds meals to be lackluster, however, we were quite pleased to discover dinner to be quite tasty with a large variety of options on the preset menu.

Finally, retiring to our rooms and closing our mosquito net around us (so Africa-like!), we were in lala land in no time at all!

The next morning, we discovered that most of our group had arrived late the night before.  After introducing ourselves and attending a short briefing about our trip, it was time to hit the market and see what Arusha had to offer.

Though Arusha is a bustling town, it is mainly the starting point for safaris and Kilimanjaro treks.  Taking the time to check out local shops, meet the local people and see a few of it’s attractions will help you to acclimate to this beautiful country.  A few local attractions are listed below and I will cover each in detail in its own post.

The Maasai Market offers the chance to purchase locally, handmade, one-of-a-kind souvenirs as well as sample local cuisine at its onsite cafe.

The Tanzanite Experience museum, though small, is an inviting space which through a guided tour, explains how tanzanite is mined at the foothill of Mount Kilimanjaro.  Many pieces of tanzanite and jewelry set with tanzanite are available for purchase.

The Shanga Market at the Arusha Coffee Lodge, is a unique enterprise employing people with disabilities.  It is most certainly worth a taxi ride and can be combined with the nearby Cultural Heritage Center which contains shops, restaurants, a precious stone counter and one the largest art galleries in Africa.

The Arusha Natural History Museum offers a look at the evolution of humans, fossils and the history of Arusha during the German colonial era.  A colorful market is located in the rear of the premises.

Arusha National Park, the closest National Park to town, doesn’t offer the Big Five, but rather the opportunity to explore a wide array of habitats within a few hours.  Giraffe, leopard, buffalo, and acrobatic colobus monkeys can be spotted here…add that to hiking, kayaking and climbing along with the promise of a view of Kilimanjaro and it it a great way to spend a day.  Though we did not visit this particular park, I wish we had, as many in our group gave it rave reviews!

Overall, we loved our time in Arusha!  The people were friendly and most welcoming, the cuisine delectable and our stay extremely comfortable!  If you are considering a safari in Tanzania, you won’t be disappointed with the your starting and ending point!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

The Arusha Hotel

  • http://www.thearushahotel.com/
  • Address:  P.O. Box 88, Arusha, Tanzania
  • Nightly rates:  Superior, Executive Deluxe and Suites available, $190-$350 per night single or double occupancy

Maasai Market

  • Address:  School Road, Arusha, Tanzania.  Located about a quarter mile from The Arusha Hotel.
  • Hours:  No posted hours, but operates approximately from 0900 until 1800, daily.

Tanzanite Experience Museum

Shanga

  • http://www.shanga.org/
  • Address:  Arusha Coffee Lodge, Dodoma Road, (near Arusha Airport), Arusha, Tanzania
  • Hours:  0900-1630, daily
  • Admission:  free

Cultural Heritage Center

Arusha Natural History Museum

  • http://eol.habari.co.tz/museum.htm
  • Address: Located at the end of the Boma road neighboring the Arusha International Conference Center, the Arusha Municipal Council, and the Arusha Regional Offices.
  • Hours:  0900-1800
  • Admission:  $5.00

Arusha National Park

Safari Prep 101

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

So you want to go on a safari?  How long does it take to prepare?

Weeks?  Months?  A Year?

For someone accustomed to planning vacations a few days prior, paying a deposit and booking flights seven months ahead of time is so out of the ordinary for me!

For as long as I can remember, a safari has been on the top of my bucket list.  Since my husband always professed that Africa was not a priority for him, I assumed that I  would be doing the trip for my 50th birthday on my own.  Surprisingly, however, when the subject was broached, he was on board!

Deciding which country we were going to embark from was the first order of business.  South Africa, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Kenya, Tanzania?  Each country offers unique opportunities and natural treasures.

Though our first inclination was to visit South Africa and combine a visit to Kruger National Park with Cape Town, we soon decided on a Tanzanian Road Safari offered by a friend and co-worker’s safari company,  Safari Express.

Paying our deposit, we eagerly anticipated what was to come.  Time flies slowly, however, and I was like a child waiting for Christmas morning.  Would it never arrive?  Well, I would utilize my time wisely and spend the next few months preparing for our journey.

Airfare plane,airplane

For our Tanzanian safari, we opted to purchase airfare rather than attempting to fly on a standby basis on my airline and its affiliates.  Using credit card points, we were able to obtain airfare from JFK via Istanbul to Nairobi, Kenya.  From Nairobi, we purchased travel on one of the many shuttles that travel between Nairobi and Arusha, Tanzania…about a six hour journey.  I later learned that it might have been possible to travel more efficiently from JFK to Kilimanjaro airport, via Istanbul or Amsterdam and from Kilimanjaro, transportation would have been arranged to Arusha (1 hour) from our safari company.  Since we arrived into Kenya, we were required to purchase Kenyan visas as well as Tanzanian visas at the Namanga border crossing adding to the cost of the overall journey.

Land Travel bus,automobile,transportation,vehicle,car,transport

  • There are a few shuttles that travel between Kenya and Tanzania, stopping for the Namanga border crossing and a restroom stop on Kenya side of border.  Travel time is approximately six hours, depending on traffic and wait time at the border.   Some of these shuttles can be booked for private transportation at $250 each way.  We used Riverside, as it was recommended by friends.  The buses were basic and took 5 1/2 hours from Nairobi Airport to Arusha and 6 1/2 hours for the return trip from Arusha to Nairobi City Center.
  • Riverside Shuttle- $35 per person each way.  http://riverside-shuttle.com/
  • Impala Shuttle-$30 per person each way.  http://www.impalashuttles.com/
  • Marangu Shuttle-$25 per person each way.  https://www.marangushuttles.com/

Visa Requirements password,passport

  • Entry into Tanzania for U.S. citizens requires a passport valid for six months, two recent passport-sized photos and $100.  It can be obtained at the airport upon entry, at the Namanga border crossing if traveling from Nairobi or at the Tanzanian embassies in New York City or Washington, D.C.  http://tanzaniaembassy-us.org/?page_id=76#visaDescrition
  • A Kenyan visa may be obtained online or at the embassies located in New York City or Washington, D.C., online, at the airport upon arrival or at the Namanga border crossing if traveling from Tanzania.  Cost of the visa is $50 for U.S. citizens and requires a passport valid for six months, two passport-sized photos and $50.  If entry into Kenya, and return for departing flights (even after travel to Tanzania) within a certain period of time, a single entry visa will suffice.  http://kenyaembassy.com/

Immunizations  Syringe by Remigho

  • When traveling from Kenya into Tanzania, proof of the yellow fever vaccination is required.  The shot may be obtained from your local travel clinic or Walgreen’s clinics.  Approximate cost is $169.  Though I had been vaccinated in the past for yellow fever, my card had expired in February, however, my company was not requiring a new immunization.  Not willing to risk entering a country without a valid immunization card, I was reimmunized.
  • Other immunizations that I received or had received in the past, during my travels were Typhoid, Hepatitis A and B and can only viewed as good to have though not required.  My Tetnus vaccination was also updated.

In addition to booking airfare and arranging for passport photos and any necessary visas, I took a box and labeled it “Safari” and began adding things I thought I might need.

Over the next few months, many things were placed in the box…

Binoculars Binoculars 2 by Firkin

  • A good set of binoculars were important in seeing the animals up close.  My husband and I each invested in our own pair.

Travel underwear  #

  • During my last few long trips to Asia, I learned the art of cleaning out my underwear drawer and bringing old and worn out pairs, which could be washed as I traveled and then left behind.  After some research, I found inexpensive disposable underwear, each individually packaged, that are to be thrown out after wearing.  Though not the most comfortable that I have ever worn, they did the trick.  I found that a combination of the two worked quite well with the disposable underwear being the best solution during long travel periods (i.e. changing during the flights).

Scott E Vest

  • If you read about my trip to Cambodia and Thailand a couple of years ago, you’ll find that I sung the praises of the Scott E Vest, a fabulous invention that offers various models with numerous pockets for storage of iphones, ipads, ereaders, sunglasses, cameras, water bottles, passports, money…you name it!  Taking these items out of your tote bag lightens your load and allows to keep items secure and also helps you to meet the luggage weight requirements that some airlines impose.  Since we were not checking luggage and given a 8 kg limit on our carry-on items, ny new Scott E Vest allowed me to load it up and keep my heavier camera equipment in my carry-ons.  An additional perk is that while out and about in a foreign city, you can keep your wallets and phones right on you and don’t have to carry a purse and attract unwanted attention.  https://www.scottevest.com/

Sterling Jacket for Men

Compression Socks and a Portable Travel Footrest/Sling  Feet by NicholasJudy567

  • During my trip to Cambodia and Thailand a couple of years ago, I learned that despite being accustomed to long flights as a flight attendant, when you are seated in economy class, there’s not much room to spread out and put your feet up.  Finding that my feet were prone to swelling, I looked to find some relief.  Everyone is aware that compression socks help to alleviate swelling, but I found another product that I was anxious to try;  a portable travel footrest.  Hanging this contraption from the tray table, it gives short people like me (whose feet do not sit solidly on the floor) a place to rest your feet.  I found that this really helped and I experienced no swelling at all after a 10 hour flight from New York to Istanbul and then another 6 hours from Kenya to Nairobi.

3D Sleep Mask  eye mask by gracotw

  • Having owned one of these for years, it was a given that it was traveling with me.  As a contact lens wearer, I am bothered by anything pressing against my eyes, so traditional sleep masks do not offer any relief when attempting to get some in-flight shut-eye.  The bubble-eye covers give my eyes room to move without restriction and rest.

Turtl Pillow-Neck Support Travel Pillow

  • Over the years, I have used a traditional blow up neck pillow.  Mine always seemed to loose air halfway during my journey and didn’t quite offer the support that I needed to get adequate rest.  Recently, I came across this travel pillow and noticed that it had been given many favorable reviews.  Opting to give it a try, I packed it for my long journey.  Though it takes up more room than my old blow-up pillow, I found that it offered more support for my neck and I actually slept like a baby.  https://trtltravel.com/

Trtl Pillow - Scientifically Proven Super Soft Neck Support Travel Pillow – Machine Washable Grey

SD Cards  sd-card by webmichl

  • Packing a sufficient number of SD cards for my camera was extremely important.  Though I knew that a 32G card would provide enough storage for the entire trip, I had another 32G and two 16G cards on standby in case of SD failure or if I decided that more than 10,000 pictures needed to be taken.

Camera Bean Bag  DSLR Camera + Lens REMIX - HQ by DG-RA

  • Since I would be taking a large 600 mm camera lens and a tripod would not be practical in a safari vehicle, I need something to rest my heavy lens on.  Taking this empty bean bag with me, I filled it with rice, purchased from the local market, when I arrived at my destination.  This beanbag, gave me something to rest my lens on and not scratch it or the vehicle.

GoPro Camera  netalloy camera by netalloy

  • My job on our vacations is photographer.  Being a lover of photography, I am always eager to capture our journeys, but as good as I am with my trusty Canon, I am the exact opposite with video.  Deciding that we needed to capture some of our safari moments on film, my husband was designated to be the official videographer.  A new GoPro was in order, complete with a stabilizing harness for the bumpy roads.

Safari Hat  #

  • Though many opt for traditional safari-style hats, my husband and I prefer baseball style hats.  Finding a great khaki-colored, moisture-wicking style, we discovered that it’s unique design allows it’s bill to fold for better packing flexibility.  You can even put it in your pocket!  Just google “folding brim hats”.

Lightweight Neck Gaiter or Bandana  #

  • For those cool mornings and to protect our faces from the dusty areas of the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater.

Moisture-Wicking and Quick Dry Pants and Shorts  Black Pants by Andrew_R_Thomas

  • There are many manufacturers of moisture-wicking/quick dry pants and shorts and those that have zip-off legs.    Because of my height and pear-shaped body, the zip-off leg style does nothing to flatter my body type.  Finding a couple of pairs that were on the expensive side, I was pleased to find that Costco offered a travel pant that worked just as well for the whopping price of $13.99.  And…they fit well too!  Doing our own laundry in some of the lodges, these pants ensured drying overnight.

Lush Products

  • A couple of years ago, I learned about Lush Cosmetics shampoo and conditioner bars.  They lather up just like regular shampoo and conditioner, smell fantastic, clean your hair and more importantly free up room in your TSA liquids bag.  After I sent my husband to pick up his own shampoo, he returned with a sample of their charcoal toothpaste tabs.  Since I had seen a similar product elsewhere, but was afraid to try it, I immediately went upstairs, brushed my teeth and went back to the Lush Store to purchase my own.  Again, they take up no room in your TSA liquids bag and I found them useful to place inside my travel toothbrush case when I needed a pick-me-up throughout my travels!  https://www.lushusa.com/

Miles of Smiles image

Sturdy, Flexible Suitcases, Bags and Locks

  • When traveling on safari, there is usually a weight and size limit for baggage.  Ours was 17 kg and this was due to the fact that we would be taking a plane from Arusha to the Serengeti.  We were also strongly discouraged against bringing roll-aboard-type bags, instead opting for flexible, duffel bags for both the airplane and safari vehicles.  This past spring, I found an amazing backpack-type from Ebags which worked wonders for me…The Mother Lode Weekender Convertible Junior.  It holds a ton of clothing items, is expandable and lightweight.  My husband and I each purchased and packed small, lightweight, foldable bags which we could check, packed with our souvenirs for our return trip home.  We also packed small, combination locks to keep our checked luggage free from sticky fingers.  https://www.ebags.com/

Clothes to Leave Behind   Flipflops Black and Red by SOlvera

  • Everyone has that pile of clothes or shoes that need to go to Goodwill or other charities.  In many cases, these items are still in good shape, you just might be a bit tired of them or they are just not the most current style.  I have learned to bring a few of these items with me, wear them during the trip and leave them with someone who may need them.  Ask at the front desk or in our case, one of our guides was happy to take them to his church for distribution to those in need.  I also donated an old pair of tennis shoes that were still in good condition, just not the best fit for my foot and left behind an inexpensive pair of flip flops from the dollar store that I used for pool time.

Other Ideas  #

  • Make sure to have lots of reading material, videos and music loaded on Ipods, Ipads and e-readers for  passing the time during layovers and in the event that entertainment is not working on the flight.