kenya – Snapping The Globe

Arusha, Here We Come!

The prospect of getting to Africa is a daunting one!

Having booked our flights many months before, the time had finally come to pack our bags and make our way to the start of our safari.

Our flight from New York to Istanbul was uneventful, if not a long one. Movies and a nap helped pass the time and I was quite comfortable in economy class with the help of my new neck pillow and foot sling. Before long, we were landing in Turkey, gazing longingly at the skyline, wishing I had time to visit the Bazaar (how I miss Istanbul’s shopping!) After a three hour sit, we boarded our plane and were landing in Kenya six hours later, making our way through customs and immigration quickly.

Since our arrival was at 2:30 in the morning and we were departing on the Riverside shuttle a short six hours later, we had a decision to make…find our way to a nearby airport hotel for a short nap and a shower or search for a quiet corner to make ourselves comfortable for our brief stay. Well, six hours isn’t that long, so we opted for the latter!

Making our way out of Terminal 1D, we began looking for a cafe that we could have a bite to eat and hang out. Paul Caffe was near the main part of the airport, and after entering, we discovered that many other people were spending time and even taking naps (which the workers did not seem to mind). Ordering a couple of sodas, we found a table with outlets nearby to charge our devices. After having breakfast a little later, we found very clean bathrooms just around the corner and were able spread out our things, change clothes and take a quick sponge bath.

Before we knew it, it was almost time to board our bus to Arusha. Once we made a quick call to their airport contact to confirm our departure, we found that we were actually in the correct spot for Riverside’s pickup. Peter met us inside of Paul Caffe around 8:30 a.m. and walked us out across the street to meet the waiting bus.

There are a few companies that offer shuttle transportation between Nairobi and Arusha. We chose Riverside from a recommendation from a friend and because the price was higher than two of the others that I had investigated. Believing the higher price made the product more desirable, we were a little disappointed to find the bus’ interior to be only adequate. A few seats were available near the back of the bus and we found the ride to be a bit uncomfortable due to the lumpy seats and the many speed bumps along the highway. Despite the cramped quarters, however, we were able to take a quick nap before arriving at a rest stop about three hours later. Given ten minutes to use the facilities and get a drink, we even had time to peruse the many crafts available at the site.

Departing the rest stop, we soon found ourselves at the Namanga border crossing, about 120km from Arusha. Ushered into the building and lined up against a wall, the process was a bit confusing. A uniformed officer checked to ensure that each person had a yellow fever immunization card before allowing us to proceed to the window. Since we had arrived into Kenya, the night before, we were quickly re-fingerprinted and stamped out. Heading to the exit, we found our bus waiting for us and hastily dodged the numerous Masai women selling bracelets, necklaces and other items. Driving around to the Tanzanian side of the border, we were required to claim our baggage from the bus and proceed into the building to clear immigration and customs. Once again, our yellow fever immunizations cards were checked and we were ushered into one of the lines snaking through the new building. At the window, our immigration forms (given to us by our driver) were handed to the agent and $100 (per person) was paid while our visa was pasted into our passports. Though we were required to bring our baggage into the building, we were not required to pass it through the x-ray machines nor was it inspected.

Exiting the building, we were once again on our way to Arusha. The whole process was completed in about an hour and not overly complicated, however, if traveling on your own, expect the border to be the busiest during the hours between 9:30-11:00 and 15:30-16:30 when the shuttle buses are passing through. Chatting with other passengers and admiring the colorful Maasai villages helped to pass the time quickly and before long we were pulling into the Riverside bus stop. Directed to board another bus with our luggage, we were then taken the final few blocks to the Arusha Hotel, our home for the next couple of days.

One of the oldest hotels in East Africa, the Arusha Hotel was established in 1894 in the then new and undeveloped town. Over the years, the hotel was a haven for those traveling from Cairo to the Cape and beyond. Enduring many changes and improvements over the years, the hotel has retained its status as one of Arusha’s grandest hotels, offering its foremost hospitality to many guests over the years, including the Prince of Wales, Baron Von Blixen and John Wayne, while filming Hatari.

We were extremely pleased to find the hotel beautiful and clean and its staff, most welcoming. Our room was extremely comfortable and modern, though we had to have our lack of hot water addressed shortly after our arrival. While waiting for our plumbing issue to be resolved, a short walk around the traffic circle to the small grocery store, directly across from the hotel, ensured that we could stock our refrigerator with soda, beer and have some snacks to munch on, before our nap.

An Airtel office, a block away, was also a convenient find. Knowing that we would be restricted to WiFi in the lobbies of our lodges during our safari, adding a local sim card to my extra phone ensured that I could be reached in the event of an emergency. It also allowed me to have access to the internet while we were out and about or in our room.

After a much needed shower and nap, we awakened feeling hungry, but not quite ready to tackle an unfamiliar city in the dark. Deciding to visit the hotel’s dining room, we discovered that breakfast and dinner was included with our stay. Usually, in these circumstances, one finds meals to be lackluster, however, we were quite pleased to discover dinner to be quite tasty with a large variety of options on the preset menu.

Finally, retiring to our rooms and closing our mosquito net around us (so Africa-like!), we were in lala land in no time at all!

The next morning, we discovered that most of our group had arrived late the night before. After introducing ourselves and attending a short briefing about our trip, it was time to hit the market and see what Arusha had to offer.

Though Arusha is a bustling town, it is mainly the starting point for safaris and Kilimanjaro treks. Taking the time to check out local shops, meet the local people and see a few of it’s attractions will help you to acclimate to this beautiful country. A few local attractions are listed below and I will cover each in detail in its own post.

The Maasai Market offers the chance to purchase locally, handmade, one-of-a-kind souvenirs as well as sample local cuisine at its onsite cafe.

The Tanzanite Experience museum, though small, is an inviting space which through a guided tour, explains how tanzanite is mined at the foothill of Mount Kilimanjaro. Many pieces of tanzanite and jewelry set with tanzanite are available for purchase.

The Shanga Market at the Arusha Coffee Lodge, is a unique enterprise employing people with disabilities. It is most certainly worth a taxi ride and can be combined with the nearby Cultural Heritage Center which contains shops, restaurants, a precious stone counter and one the largest art galleries in Africa.

The Arusha Natural History Museum offers a look at the evolution of humans, fossils and the history of Arusha during the German colonial era. A colorful market is located in the rear of the premises.

Arusha National Park, the closest National Park to town, doesn’t offer the Big Five, but rather the opportunity to explore a wide array of habitats within a few hours. Giraffe, leopard, buffalo, and acrobatic colobus monkeys can be spotted here…add that to hiking, kayaking and climbing along with the promise of a view of Kilimanjaro and it it a great way to spend a day. Though we did not visit this particular park, I wish we had, as many in our group gave it rave reviews!

Overall, we loved our time in Arusha! The people were friendly and most welcoming, the cuisine delectable and our stay extremely comfortable! If you are considering a safari in Tanzania, you won’t be disappointed with the your starting and ending point!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The Arusha Hotel

http://www.thearushahotel.com/
Address: P.O. Box 88, Arusha, Tanzania
Nightly rates: Superior, Executive Deluxe and Suites available, $190-$350 per night single or double occupancy

Maasai Market

Address: School Road, Arusha, Tanzania. Located about a quarter mile from The Arusha Hotel.
Hours: No posted hours, but operates approximately from 0900 until 1800, daily.

Tanzanite Experience Museum

http://www.tanzaniteexperience.co/
Address: 3rd Floor, Blue Plaza, India Street, India St, Arusha, Tanzania
Hours: 0830-1730, daily
Admission: free

Shanga

http://www.shanga.org/
Address: Arusha Coffee Lodge, Dodoma Road, (near Arusha Airport), Arusha, Tanzania
Hours: 0900-1630, daily
Admission: free

Cultural Heritage Center

http://www.culturalheritage.co.tz/
Address: Cultural Heritage, Dodoma Road, Arusha, Tanzania
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: free

Arusha Natural History Museum

http://eol.habari.co.tz/museum.htm
Address: Located at the end of the Boma road neighboring the Arusha International Conference Center, the Arusha Municipal Council, and the Arusha Regional Offices.
Hours: 0900-1800
Admission: $5.00

Arusha National Park

http://www.tanzaniaparks.go.tz/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1&Itemid=104
Address: 40-minute drive from Arusha, approximately 60 km (35 miles) from Kilimanjaro International Airport.
Hours: 0600-1800, daily
Conservation fees: Adults, $45, Children (ages 5-15), $10, Children under 5, free

Safari Prep 101

So you want to go on a safari? How long does it take to prepare?

Weeks? Months? A Year?

For someone accustomed to planning vacations a few days prior, paying a deposit and booking flights seven months ahead of time is so out of the ordinary for me!

For as long as I can remember, a safari has been on the top of my bucket list. Since my husband always professed that Africa was not a priority for him, I assumed that I would be doing the trip for my 50th birthday on my own. Surprisingly, however, when the subject was broached, he was on board!

Deciding which country we were going to embark from was the first order of business. South Africa, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Kenya, Tanzania? Each country offers unique opportunities and natural treasures.

Though our first inclination was to visit South Africa and combine a visit to Kruger National Park with Cape Town, we soon decided on a Tanzanian Road Safari offered by a friend and co-worker’s safari company, Safari Express.

Paying our deposit, we eagerly anticipated what was to come. Time flies slowly, however, and I was like a child waiting for Christmas morning. Would it never arrive? Well, I would utilize my time wisely and spend the next few months preparing for our journey.

Airfare

For our Tanzanian safari, we opted to purchase airfare rather than attempting to fly on a standby basis on my airline and its affiliates. Using credit card points, we were able to obtain airfare from JFK via Istanbul to Nairobi, Kenya. From Nairobi, we purchased travel on one of the many shuttles that travel between Nairobi and Arusha, Tanzania…about a six hour journey. I later learned that it might have been possible to travel more efficiently from JFK to Kilimanjaro airport, via Istanbul or Amsterdam and from Kilimanjaro, transportation would have been arranged to Arusha (1 hour) from our safari company. Since we arrived into Kenya, we were required to purchase Kenyan visas as well as Tanzanian visas at the Namanga border crossing adding to the cost of the overall journey.

Land Travel

There are a few shuttles that travel between Kenya and Tanzania, stopping for the Namanga border crossing and a restroom stop on Kenya side of border. Travel time is approximately six hours, depending on traffic and wait time at the border. Some of these shuttles can be booked for private transportation at $250 each way. We used Riverside, as it was recommended by friends. The buses were basic and took 5 1/2 hours from Nairobi Airport to Arusha and 6 1/2 hours for the return trip from Arusha to Nairobi City Center.
Riverside Shuttle- $35 per person each way. http://riverside-shuttle.com/
Impala Shuttle-$30 per person each way. http://www.impalashuttles.com/
Marangu Shuttle-$25 per person each way. https://www.marangushuttles.com/

Visa Requirements

Entry into Tanzania for U.S. citizens requires a passport valid for six months, two recent passport-sized photos and $100. It can be obtained at the airport upon entry, at the Namanga border crossing if traveling from Nairobi or at the Tanzanian embassies in New York City or Washington, D.C. http://tanzaniaembassy-us.org/?page_id=76#visaDescrition
A Kenyan visa may be obtained online or at the embassies located in New York City or Washington, D.C., online, at the airport upon arrival or at the Namanga border crossing if traveling from Tanzania. Cost of the visa is $50 for U.S. citizens and requires a passport valid for six months, two passport-sized photos and $50. If entry into Kenya, and return for departing flights (even after travel to Tanzania) within a certain period of time, a single entry visa will suffice. http://kenyaembassy.com/

Immunizations

When traveling from Kenya into Tanzania, proof of the yellow fever vaccination is required. The shot may be obtained from your local travel clinic or Walgreen’s clinics. Approximate cost is $169. Though I had been vaccinated in the past for yellow fever, my card had expired in February, however, my company was not requiring a new immunization. Not willing to risk entering a country without a valid immunization card, I was reimmunized.
Other immunizations that I received or had received in the past, during my travels were Typhoid, Hepatitis A and B and can only viewed as good to have though not required. My Tetnus vaccination was also updated.

In addition to booking airfare and arranging for passport photos and any necessary visas, I took a box and labeled it “Safari” and began adding things I thought I might need.

Over the next few months, many things were placed in the box…

Binoculars

A good set of binoculars were important in seeing the animals up close. My husband and I each invested in our own pair.

Travel underwear

During my last few long trips to Asia, I learned the art of cleaning out my underwear drawer and bringing old and worn out pairs, which could be washed as I traveled and then left behind. After some research, I found inexpensive disposable underwear, each individually packaged, that are to be thrown out after wearing. Though not the most comfortable that I have ever worn, they did the trick. I found that a combination of the two worked quite well with the disposable underwear being the best solution during long travel periods (i.e. changing during the flights).

Scott E Vest

If you read about my trip to Cambodia and Thailand a couple of years ago, you’ll find that I sung the praises of the Scott E Vest, a fabulous invention that offers various models with numerous pockets for storage of iphones, ipads, ereaders, sunglasses, cameras, water bottles, passports, money…you name it! Taking these items out of your tote bag lightens your load and allows to keep items secure and also helps you to meet the luggage weight requirements that some airlines impose. Since we were not checking luggage and given a 8 kg limit on our carry-on items, ny new Scott E Vest allowed me to load it up and keep my heavier camera equipment in my carry-ons. An additional perk is that while out and about in a foreign city, you can keep your wallets and phones right on you and don’t have to carry a purse and attract unwanted attention. https://www.scottevest.com/

Compression Socks and a Portable Travel Footrest/Sling

During my trip to Cambodia and Thailand a couple of years ago, I learned that despite being accustomed to long flights as a flight attendant, when you are seated in economy class, there’s not much room to spread out and put your feet up. Finding that my feet were prone to swelling, I looked to find some relief. Everyone is aware that compression socks help to alleviate swelling, but I found another product that I was anxious to try; a portable travel footrest. Hanging this contraption from the tray table, it gives short people like me (whose feet do not sit solidly on the floor) a place to rest your feet. I found that this really helped and I experienced no swelling at all after a 10 hour flight from New York to Istanbul and then another 6 hours from Kenya to Nairobi.

3D Sleep Mask

Having owned one of these for years, it was a given that it was traveling with me. As a contact lens wearer, I am bothered by anything pressing against my eyes, so traditional sleep masks do not offer any relief when attempting to get some in-flight shut-eye. The bubble-eye covers give my eyes room to move without restriction and rest.

Turtl Pillow-Neck Support Travel Pillow

Over the years, I have used a traditional blow up neck pillow. Mine always seemed to loose air halfway during my journey and didn’t quite offer the support that I needed to get adequate rest. Recently, I came across this travel pillow and noticed that it had been given many favorable reviews. Opting to give it a try, I packed it for my long journey. Though it takes up more room than my old blow-up pillow, I found that it offered more support for my neck and I actually slept like a baby. https://trtltravel.com/

SD Cards

Packing a sufficient number of SD cards for my camera was extremely important. Though I knew that a 32G card would provide enough storage for the entire trip, I had another 32G and two 16G cards on standby in case of SD failure or if I decided that more than 10,000 pictures needed to be taken.

Camera Bean Bag

Since I would be taking a large 600 mm camera lens and a tripod would not be practical in a safari vehicle, I need something to rest my heavy lens on. Taking this empty bean bag with me, I filled it with rice, purchased from the local market, when I arrived at my destination. This beanbag, gave me something to rest my lens on and not scratch it or the vehicle.

GoPro Camera

My job on our vacations is photographer. Being a lover of photography, I am always eager to capture our journeys, but as good as I am with my trusty Canon, I am the exact opposite with video. Deciding that we needed to capture some of our safari moments on film, my husband was designated to be the official videographer. A new GoPro was in order, complete with a stabilizing harness for the bumpy roads.

Safari Hat

Though many opt for traditional safari-style hats, my husband and I prefer baseball style hats. Finding a great khaki-colored, moisture-wicking style, we discovered that it’s unique design allows it’s bill to fold for better packing flexibility. You can even put it in your pocket! Just google “folding brim hats”.

Lightweight Neck Gaiter or Bandana

For those cool mornings and to protect our faces from the dusty areas of the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater.

Moisture-Wicking and Quick Dry Pants and Shorts

There are many manufacturers of moisture-wicking/quick dry pants and shorts and those that have zip-off legs. Because of my height and pear-shaped body, the zip-off leg style does nothing to flatter my body type. Finding a couple of pairs that were on the expensive side, I was pleased to find that Costco offered a travel pant that worked just as well for the whopping price of $13.99. And…they fit well too! Doing our own laundry in some of the lodges, these pants ensured drying overnight.

Lush Products

A couple of years ago, I learned about Lush Cosmetics shampoo and conditioner bars. They lather up just like regular shampoo and conditioner, smell fantastic, clean your hair and more importantly free up room in your TSA liquids bag. After I sent my husband to pick up his own shampoo, he returned with a sample of their charcoal toothpaste tabs. Since I had seen a similar product elsewhere, but was afraid to try it, I immediately went upstairs, brushed my teeth and went back to the Lush Store to purchase my own. Again, they take up no room in your TSA liquids bag and I found them useful to place inside my travel toothbrush case when I needed a pick-me-up throughout my travels! https://www.lushusa.com/

Sturdy, Flexible Suitcases, Bags and Locks

When traveling on safari, there is usually a weight and size limit for baggage. Ours was 17 kg and this was due to the fact that we would be taking a plane from Arusha to the Serengeti. We were also strongly discouraged against bringing roll-aboard-type bags, instead opting for flexible, duffel bags for both the airplane and safari vehicles. This past spring, I found an amazing backpack-type from Ebags which worked wonders for me…The Mother Lode Weekender Convertible Junior. It holds a ton of clothing items, is expandable and lightweight. My husband and I each purchased and packed small, lightweight, foldable bags which we could check, packed with our souvenirs for our return trip home. We also packed small, combination locks to keep our checked luggage free from sticky fingers. https://www.ebags.com/

Clothes to Leave Behind

Everyone has that pile of clothes or shoes that need to go to Goodwill or other charities. In many cases, these items are still in good shape, you just might be a bit tired of them or they are just not the most current style. I have learned to bring a few of these items with me, wear them during the trip and leave them with someone who may need them. Ask at the front desk or in our case, one of our guides was happy to take them to his church for distribution to those in need. I also donated an old pair of tennis shoes that were still in good condition, just not the best fit for my foot and left behind an inexpensive pair of flip flops from the dollar store that I used for pool time.

Other Ideas

Make sure to have lots of reading material, videos and music loaded on Ipods, Ipads and e-readers for passing the time during layovers and in the event that entertainment is not working on the flight.