Tag: travel

The Head of St. John the Baptist

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

So many churches, so little time.

That’s Rome for you.

With over 900 churches within the Eternal City’s limits, I am determined to try and see as many as possible.  I love churches…can’t help it.  You can take the girl out of Catholic school, but you can’t take the Catholic school out of the girl…besides, I really love the architecture!

While doing a little research, I stumbled upon a church, San Silvestro in Capite, not far from the Trevi Fountain, that claims to have the skull of St. John the Baptist.  Of course, churches in Syria, France and Germany have also claimed to have the same relic in their possession, but since I was going to be in the area, I decided it was worth investigating.

Located near the intersection of Via del Gambero and Via della Mercede, San Silvestro, is hardly noticeable with other, more grand churches in the area.  An unassuming building of a yellowish color with architectural details in limestone, its most notable features are the four baroque statues of San Silvestro by Lorenzo Ouone, Saint Stephen by Michelangelo Borgognone, Saint Clare by Guiseppe Mazzoni and Saint Francis by Vincenzo Felice at the apex.  It doesn’t stand out or appear to be a church, however, as you approach from Piazza di San Silvestro, you realize that this is not the facade of the actual church.  The street exterior lures you into an atrium which sequesters it from the busy Roman streets.  The walls here are embedded and decorated with fragments of early Christian and pagan monuments and sculpture, many with inscriptions, obtained from excavations and restorations and the church’s entrance is at far side.  Most interesting here is an ancient sarcophagus and several antiquated columns on the right side of the atrium.

 

The original church, built in the 8th century to house venerated relics of early Christian saints who were buried in the catacombs, was rebuilt in 1198 during the papacy of Innocent III.  Later, during the 13th century, the church was donated to the Poor Clares Nuns.  Rebuilt again during the six-year period between 1591-1601, the relics of Pope Sylvester I, Pope Stephen I and Pope Dionnysius were exhumed and re-enshrined beneath the high altar during the church’s consecration along with the relics of Saint Tarcisius, with the Poor Clares remaining in residence.

The Poor Clares, had two relics in their nunnery.  The most well known is the head of St. John the Baptist and the other is a version of the ancient icon of Christ called the Image of Edessa, also known as the Holy Face of San Silvestro, an imprint on a cloth that Christ made of his face and had sent to King Abgar of Edessa (Turkey).  The former was given a home in San Silvestro.

As I walked into the church, a wedding was in progress and I had to remain on the sidelines until its conclusion.  Finally, making my way around the church’s midst, I marveled at the rich interior of marble, gilding and artistic decoration.  Many beautiful works of art are in residence here including many frescoes;   Assumption with Saints by Giacinto Brandi in the nave, the cupola by Cristoforo Roncalli, A Martyrdom of San Stephan I and Messengers of Constantine Call on San Silvestro by Orazio Borgianni in the apse, Baptism of Constantine by Ludovico Gimignani in the baptistry apse and History of San Silvestro by Gimignani and Madonna with Child by Baccio Ciarpi.

The high altar, by Carlo Rainaldi, which predates the present church, is believed to have been influenced by the style of Michelangelo, a friend of the artist.  The main altar, also by Rainaldi, has a carved canopy, under which the relics from the catacombs are housed in the crypt.  A medieval tablet listing the feast-days of the saints enshrined here is located in the loggia.

The church has many chapels dedicated to St. Anthony of Padua, St. Francis, St. Tarcisius, the Holy Spirit, Colonna, SS Marcellus and Joseph and the Crucifixion, each filled with paintings, lunettes, altarpieces and frescoes.

Alternate entrance on side of church

The most significant chapel, however, contains what I came in search of…the head of St. John the Baptist.  The chapel is located at the front of the church with a separate entrance at the left of the church and also contains a stained glass depicting St. John’s head on a plate and a life-sized pieta.  The reliquary is displayed on an altar behind bars to offer protection from overzealous visitors.  Although the authenticity of the head is uncertain due to the claims of the churches in other countries, it is this particular head that has given the church its name in Capite (latin: head) and why it so many pilgrims make the journey to pay their respects.  This one included.

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 San Silvestro in Capite
  • http://sansilvestroincapite.info/
  • Address:  Piazza di San Silvestro, 17A, 00100 Rome, Italy (Colonna).  Located next to the Post Office building with the large clock on the facade.
  • Admission:  free
  • Hours:  Weekdays, 0700-1900, Sundays, 0900-1245, 1530, 1830
  • Mass Times: Monday thru Friday, 1200, 1830 (Italian), Saturday, 1200, 1730 (Italian), Sunday, 1000 (English), 1200 (Italian), 1730 (Italian)
  • Metro Stations:  Barberini and Spagna

 

 

 

 

 

 

When In Rome

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

If I’ve said it once, I’ll say it again, there’s never a shortage of things to see and experience in Rome.  One of my favorite places in Europe, it’s a fabulous walking city with something to see and do at every turn.

One of the most popular attractions in the Eternal City is the Spanish Steps.

In the 17th century, the 135-step staircase was designed by little-known architect and sculptor, Francesco de Sanctis.  The steps, built during a two year span, from 1723 to 1725, were intended to connect the newly built Trinita dei Monti church, owned by the French, and the Piazza di Spagna, home of the Spanish Embassy, signifying the newly-established peace between France and Spain.

The staircase, flanked by two of Rome’s most unusual monuments, the Fontana della Barcaccia and the Sallustian Obelisk, is also a neighbor to the home where Romantic writer, John Keats died of tuberculosis, now a popular museum.

Over the years, the steps have attracted many types of visitors.  Artists, painters and poets frequented the steps, inspired by its beauty.  The artists presence attracted many beautiful women, hoping to be chosen to serve as models.  The models presence, in turn, attracted rich Romans and travelers and eventually a great number of famous hotels, restaurants and stores were opened in the area, including the likes of Gucci and Chanel.  Today, the steps attract people of many different backgrounds and has become a celebrated meeting place.

On this occasion, I arrived to an extremely crowded Piazza di Spagna.  Years ago, it seemed that you could visit the area during the off-season months and find the place less crowded than during the summer tourist season.  Nowadays, I don’t think that the Italian capital has an off-season.  Throngs of tour groups filled the square and most spaces on the steps were filled with people enjoying the warmth of the sunlit afternoon.

At the base of the steps, I set my eyes upon the Fontana della Barcaccia (Fountain of the Old Boat), an early Baroque fountain, designed by Pietro Bernini and commissioned by Pope Urban VIII.  Legend states that a fishing boat was carried to this spot during a massive flood of the Tiber River in the 16th century.  The fountain was designed to look like the stranded vessel, a half-sunk galleon spilling water over its sides.  Although it may be tempting during the hottest summer months, do not attempt to wade in the basin and only drink from the spouts in the side of the boat, not the basin or you may find yourself having a visit with a member of the Polizia di Quartiere or the polizziotti (police).

Making my way past the gathered visitors, I climbed steadily up the right side of the steps, passing the Keats-Shelley Memorial House which houses the most extensive collection of memorabilia of mostly English artists, including Keats, Shelley, Wordsworth, Oscar Wilde.

Dodging dozens of seated visitors, I made my way upward among the mix of curves, straight flights, vistas and terraces, occasionally stopping to gaze upward at the twin towers of the Church of Trinità dei Monti and then down at the Roman Baroque yellow and ochre colored buildings of the Piazza di Spagna.

At the top of the Spanish Steps is the Sallustian Obelisk, sculpted to look like one of the many obelisks that Roman emperors borrowed from Egypt and put into place in 1789.  Take some time to inspect the obelisk, complete with copied hieroglyphics from the authentic and famous Roman Flaminio Obelisk.

While standing at the base of the obelisk, I marveled at the beauty of the staircase cascading below me and the hundreds of people milling about.

Some interesting facts about the steps:

  • Picnicking is strictly forbidden as the steps would be overridden, making any movement to the top impossible.
  • Although refurbished recently, look to see if you can spot the areas where several of the 200 year-old steps were chipped and scuffed.  In 2007, a drunkard attempted to drive a car down the Spanish Steps.  Thankfully, only a few steps were harmed.  Incidents such as this and the fact that the steps is a large gathering place have given many pause about lingering too long in the area.
  • It’s almost impossible to have the landmark to yourself, unless you wake up pretty early or stay up pretty late.  Busiest around sunset, friends, lovers and tourists congregate to celebrate the end of the day.
  • During certain times of the year, seasonal decorations are placed on the stairway.  In the spring, it is decorated with pink azaleas for a month, celebrating Rome’s founding and during Christmas, a 19th century crib is displayed on the first level of the steps.

With one last glance at the piazza and steps below, I ascended to the stairway’s crowning glory, the Church of the Santissima Trinitá dei Monti.

The most famous of French churches is not on French soil…it sits at the top of the Spanish Steps!  By one of the many quirks of Roman history, this church is maintained by France, is a century and a half older than the steps and is mostly famous for its location rather than what it houses.

Built between 1502-and 1519, the church was designed by Giacomo della Porta and given Gothic elements to laud the great French Gothic cathedrals.  Officially titled Santissima Trinita di Monte Pincio (Most Holy Trinity of Mount Pinicio), the church was named for the hill on which it sits.  Since its restoration in 1823, every cardinal has been a French national and mass continues to be said in French.

While walking through the cathedral, it is interesting to note each of the six bays with side aisles which have been divided to form self-contained chapels, including the Borghese Chapel, built when in 1574 when it was decided that the church should be lengthened.  The chapel bears the family crests, a Baroque sculpture of the Pieta and is the burial site of many illustrious members of the family.

Other extraordinary works of art include the Deposition fresco by Daniele da Volterra and the fresco cycles by the Zuccari brothers of Old and New Testament scenes which were created over a twenty-five year span.  Connecting the church to the monastery is a perspective gallery by Andrea Pozzo and a pipe organ designed by a majestic French master.

After leaving the church, I was determined to head toward the recently refurbished Fontana di Trevi (Trevi Fountain), but there was a brief detour that I was determined to make.

The Monster House, located a short distance from Trinitá dei Monti at Via Gregoriana 28, is actually the 16th century Zuccari Palace, which boasts the faces and gaping mouths of monsters swallowing the doors and windows on its facade.  Originally the house of Baroque painter Federico Zuccari, built in 1590, it served as a studio for himself and his children and drew inspiration from the Gardens of Bomarzo.  Over the years, it also served as a residence for the Queen of Poland, was a center of high society in Rome and an inn for foreign artists.  Today, the building houses the Max Planck Institute for Art History, however, it is not open to the public.  You can, however, grab a couple of photos from across the street.

Making my way down Via Gregoriana, I finally headed to the Trevi Fountain to see it once again devoid of the scaffolding that had marred its beautiful veneer the last time I had walked past.

With origins dating back to Roman times, the fountain was originally the terminating point of the Aqua Virgo aqueduct commissioned by Augustus, which provided water for the thermal baths.  Taking three centuries to complete, under the orders of Pope Clement XII, the fountain’s design is often associated with Bernini, although most of the work was complete by Nicola Salvi.

Like the Spanish Steps, the well-known Trevi Fountain has become a place where tourists and locals meet and hang out, grabbing a nearby gelato while admiring the roaring water cascading from the monument.

Constructed of travertine and carrara marble, the fountain is 85.28 feet high by 160.72 feet wide.  2,824,800 cubic feet of water spill from the fountain daily and its presence can be detected many streets away from its roaring sound.

In the center of the fountain is a chariot in the shape of a shell, led by seahorses with Triton as their guide.  In the forefront stands Oceanus and on the sides are the statues of Abundance and Salubrity.  Natural and artificial forms are represented throughout as rocks and petrified vegetation that run along the foundation of the palace and around the borders of the pool, representing the sea.

Always busy, polizziotti have a constant presence and its quite disconcerting to be among the hundreds of selfie takers.  However, whipping out your own phone and snapping away is a must!

And, while you are at it, make sure to throw a coin from your right hand over your left shoulder and make a wish!  It will ensure that you will return to Rome one day!

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The Spanish Steps (Scalina Spagna)

Trinitá dei Monti

  • http://trinitadeimonti.net/en/homepage/
  • Address:  Piazza della Trinità dei Monti, 3, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
  • Admission:  free
  • Hours:  Tuesday to Thursday, 0730–1900, Friday, 1200-1900, Saturday and Sunday, 1000-1700.  Closed on Mondays.  No visits are allowed during church celebrations.
  • French Masses:  Tuesday, Thursday and Friday, 1830, Saturday, 1200, Sunday, 0930.
  • Italian Masses:  Wednesday, 0630, Sunday, 1100
  • Eucharistic Adoration:  Tuesday-Thursday, 0730-0830
  • Metro stop:  Spagna

The Monster House

Trevi Fountain (Fontana di Trevi)

 

 

 

 

 

Sawa Sawa

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

As we drove out of Tarangire National Park, one thing repeated itself over and over in my head.

“Sawa Sawa”.

A year ago, I didn’t know what the Swahili phrase meant.  Now, if I am completing something, I hear Fahad’s throaty voice asking, “Sawa Sawa?”

Whenever we were out in one of the parks and we were ready to move on, Fahad would always ask in Swahili, “Sawa Sawa?”  Though technically translated to English, it means “equal”, it also is means, “fine”, “all good” and “no worries” and what Fahad was asking was if we were ready to go.

Though we were not ready to move on, it was time for our adventure to end and time to return to Arusha, Nairobi and then home.

Driving through the park, heading to the exit, in order to make our way back to Arusha, we looked out at the elephants and giraffes, the baobab trees and the amazing landscapes that we had admired over the past week.

I definitely was not going miss the bumpy roads or the tsetse flies, but I would miss the beauty of each day, the animals, the scrumptious cuisine, our quaint lodges, local beer, our new friends, Mathilda (our 4×4),  and, of course, Fahad.

I was going to miss Tanzania.

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Land of the Elephants and Baobabs

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Mating lions.  Lounging cheetahs.  Charging elephants.  Jumping warriors.

These were some of the amazing things we had seen so far on our Tanzanian adventure.  What could Tarangire National Park possibly offer up that would be so different?

Turning off of Tarangire Road, we soon found ourselves at the Tarangire National Park Visitor’s Center.  The sixth largest national park in Tanzania is located in the Manyara Region and is famous for it high density of elephants and baobab trees.  Though I had seen my fair share of baobab trees in Senegal, it was something new for many in our group.

The Visitor’s Center was a nice place to stretch our legs for a short time while Fahad and our other guides checked us in.  The area was lined with walking paths which we utilized as we made our way to an impressive wooden staircase and viewing platform.  Adjacent to a baobob tree, a species which we had begun to notice growing in the region while on our journey to Tarangire, the platform allowed an up-close and personal look at the “tree of life” as they are also known.  These massive trees reach heights of sixteen to ninety-eight feet and have trunk diameters of twenty-three to thirty-six feet.  The trees are the largest and most important in Africa as their trunk can hold up to 120,000 liters of water and they provide shelter and wood.  For most of the year, the tree is leafless and it appears that it has it roots sticking up in the air, earning it another nickname, “the upside-down tree”, however, when the leaves can be harvested, they are used for making soup and medicine.

Termite mounds were very common in the Serengeti, however, we were never able to exit our vehicles to see them up close.  Here at the Visitor’s Center, we were able to follow one of the paths to see one at arm’s length and we learned that they were plenty throughout the park, many housing armies of dwarf mongooses.

Soon, it was time to move along and begin our game drive while enroute to the Tarangire Sopa Lodge…there would be many baobabs, termite mounds and a wealth of wildlife throughout the two days we would spend here.

Our first impression of Tarangire was a hot and sweaty one.  Much more arid and dry than the other two parks, it was also sweltering and teeming with tsetse flies.  The blue and black flags were present throughout the park and although they didn’t cause me much anguish, my travel mates suffered their piercing bites.

Because of the scorching temperatures, the watering holes were where we were headed.  Giraffes and zebras gathered around an oasis of green-tinted water and herds of elephants lined the banks of the Tarangire River, the primary source of fresh water in the Tarangire Ecosystem.

As we sat high on a ridge, overlooking the river valley, we watched as zebras, giraffes and wildebeests joined the elephants, all inhabiting the area harmoniously.

A short drive later, we soon found ourselves at the Tarangire Sopa Lodge our final resting place on our safari.

The next day, with an early start, we found ourselves watching the sun rise above the baobab trees and termite mounds which seemed to greet us at every turn.

There were many other animals, as to be expected, however, throughout the day, we encountered a large number of leopards and cheetahs, some lounging on the trees’ large limbs and some stalking their prey in the high, yellow grass.

At a different part of the river, we watched zebras and wildebeests parading in long lines to bathe and drink, vultures maintaining a sharp eye on the surrounding area and hyenas mud-bathing on the banks.

Throughout the park, male ostriches danced along, bobbing their bright pink necks with females remaining aloof.  At one point, while driving along, we noticed what appeared to be a male ostrich resting in the grass.  Waiting for it to rise, we soon noticed that it was not alone.  Not only had we been fortunate to spy the mating ritual of lions while at Ngorongoro, but now, we were able to witness that of the ostrich!

Other birds were quite plentiful throughout the park, with it being the home to more than 550 species.  Bird enthusiasts converge upon the park with the hopes of spotting the numerous flocks within the trees and within and around the watering holes and we were quite charmed to spot many.

Giraffes were a common sight and our favorite was an old guy who stood right beside the road and our vehicle.  He seemed as mesmerized by us as we were of him and although the lighting was behind him, I was able to capture some funny photos.  Yes, funny…he appears to be smiling at us!

The elephants…Tarangire’s claim to fame…were everywhere.  The largest elephant population in Tanzania has herds of up to 300 even out of the dry season, ensuring sightings throughout the year.  Many baby elephants followed their mothers and we even watched a youngster running and trumpeting to alert his herd that he was left behind.  Teenagers…they are all the same!

As the day drew on and the sun approached the horizon, three of my favorite memories presented themselves.

First, after a call on our radio, Fahad sped along the dusty roads, finally coming to a stop at the base of a large hill.   Here, many 4x4s had gathered around a large, low-limbed tree.  On the branches rested three female lions.  Though it was hard to capture them photographically in the failing afternoon light, it was fascinating to spot them in the tree.  Though we had seen many cheetahs resting in the trees throughout our trip, this was a first for us…and honestly, I don’t think I ever realized that lions climb trees!

Our second encounter was with an imposing herd of wildebeests.  Stretching out as far as we could see, a few approached the road, attempting to cross.  We stopped to watch, hoping to see them make their way in front of us.  After a few timid tries, one (we nicknamed her Helen), was a bit more brazen than the rest.  Stopping to think about the passage, she looked around for a while, finally breaking into a slight run and eventually a full gallop.  The others, watching her carefully, mimicked her actions and began to run across the road.  Soon the massive herd crossed immediately before us, stirring up a huge dust cloud, in a thunderous roar!

Giddy with the excitement of seeing the wildebeests, we made our way towards to the lodge at full speed.  Knowing Fahad only drives quickly when there is something special to see, we wondered what it could be as he had not received any calls on the radio and the sun was heavy on the horizon.  Pulling over to the side of the road, we looked out on the landscape to a massive baobab, filled with vultures and the bright orange sun setting behind it.  I couldn’t have pictured a more fitting end to our day in the land of the elephants and baobabs!

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Tarangire National Park

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tarangire National Park

The Trek To Tarangire

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Parting is such sweet sorrow…

I have seen some of the most beautiful places in this world.  Ngorongoro Crater tops that list!  Truly one of the most remarkable environments I have had the privilege to lay my eyes upon, I was definitely despising our departure.

Of course, there was going to be lots of new and exciting things to see in our next destination, Tarangire National Park.  However, one must not overlook the journey to get there.  Watching the scenery as we navigated the roads and highways would prove to be new and exciting too!

Many vibrant communities lined our route, with countless villagers going about their day to day living.  Markets were in full swing and people were waiting alongside the roadways in order to get there.

A couple of hours into our trek, we made a stop at the African Galleria.  Once we had utilized their facilities, we took a bit of time to walk around and inspect the amazing artwork.  Yes, there were the normal masks, souvenirs and fabrics that you would find in any market, but there was also the most awe-inspiring carvings that I have ever seen.  After spotting the most intricate piece of shaped wood, depicting migrating wildebeests, my curiosity got the best of me and I had to inquire about some of the prices.

They were willing to make a deal for me their first customer (okay, I’ve heard that one before).

They would give me a  much better deal because it was Sunday (yeah, heard that one too).

They would pack it carefully and ship it via FedEx and it would be waiting for me when I got home.

Any guesses as to the price?  Well, let’s just say that I could have booked another safari with what they wanted to charge me.

Not that it wasn’t worth it!  It truly was!  Both my husband and I agreed that the craftsmanship required to master a piece like that was worth the price.  When you have two children in college, however, you have to admire from afar and move along!

Strolling around, we made it to the more affordable part of the galleria and negotiated a fair price for a couple of other pieces.  Heading outside to relax with a couple of sodas, we then spotted the King of the Jungle!  Naturally, we had to pose for a few pics!

Turning back onto the highway, we traveled for a while until Fahad pulled over from the roadway to a fruit seller’s stand.  He said he had a surprise.  Well, it was definitely a surprise!  Have you ever seen or tasted a red banana?  Absolutely delicious!

Enjoying our red bananas, we traveled for a while longer before turning onto Tarangire Road.  This intersection was teeming with activity!  The Minjingu Market was going strong with villagers from miles around selling their wares and making deals.  So colorful and busy, we weren’t sure where to look!

Although Tarangire was only a short drive down the road, we didn’t have time to stop and enjoy the activity.

The elephants were calling!

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Minjingu Market

 

African Galleria

  • http://africangalleriatz.net/

On the Edge

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Located at the highest point on Ngorongoro Crater’s entire rim and offering unsurpassed views of the crater, lies the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge.

Greeted upon our arrival, once again, with refreshing cool towels and mouthwatering drinks, we received our keys and followed our porters to check out our new accommodations.

The entire resort is themed around traditional circular African houses with conical roofs and our rooms, grouped in sets of four, were no exception.

Walking into our temporary residence, we checked out the entry hall complete with armoire and minibar.  The circular room, was very interesting with its brick side tables, headboards, foot boards and vanity.   African print bedding graced the berth but no artwork adorned the elliptical walls.  Instead, the curtains were drawn, exposing a wall of windows looking out onto the crater and the rain-forests at the rim.  Indeed, who needs artwork when you can admire this!

Difficult as it was to tear myself away, we set out to enjoy the beautiful sunset from the luxurious westward facing lounge and pool area before heading to the dramatic dining room with its soaring ceilings.

The service, once again, was incredible and the food a remarkable exhibition of the chef’s amazing talent.

On our second evening, we enjoyed an interesting talk given by a local ranger of the history and diversity of the crater, complete with an interesting slideshow.  Our absolute favorite thing about the lodge, however, was the hot water bottles that were placed in our beds each night to help combat the chill!  We didn’t have the mosquito netting here at the crater as the temperatures were too chilly, but the hot water bottles were a nice touch!

We loved leaving our windows open to the chilled mountain air, even though we were subject to the sounds of Africa.  In fact, being able to hear the outside environment, led to some amazing sightings.

On our first evening, in the waning light, we noticed Cape Buffalo foraging in the brush.  A little later, a mountain reedbuck was grazing near our windows. So enthralled by this close-up encounter, I could have passed on dinner and watched this active display.  No wonder there was no television and wifi available in our rooms!  Also, in the middle of our first night, we were awakened by grunting and discovered zebras scratching their hind quarters on the lodge.  The following evening, we were roused by the sound of a heavy movement through the brush.  Two large elephant were walking near the top of the rim.  It is a wonder that we actually got any sleep!

The encounters weren’t restricted to our rooms, however.  One evening, one of the members of our group took us outside to see a large owl resting on the rear patio.  Monkeys continued to wander the premises and many guests had to hang on to their belongings to keep the sneaky primates from helping themselves.  The most exhilarating (and alarming) encounter, however, was when we were exiting the rear of the lodge and headed back to our rooms.  A guard greeted us and informed us that he would be escorting us.  The flashing of light and excited voices near the pool caught our attention.  A Cape Buffalo was standing near the pool, mere yards from our location!

Though we had visited and departed the crater a few hours before, we hadn’t really left it behind.

Definitely one of the most interesting places we have ever stayed!

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Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge

The Descent

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

If seeing the Maasai up close and personal was the main thing that I wanted to do on my safari, Ngorongoro Crater was a close second.

So many people look a bit confused when you mention Ngorongoro Crater…it’s something they have probably seen before in pictures, but not something that they have ever given much thought to.  Me?  I knew exactly what it was and I couldn’t wait to see it!

After leaving Olduvai Gorge, we began the long and winding road up to the rim of the crater.  Passing many villages on the way, we also continued to see the occasional giraffe and dust devil in the distance.   We relished the giraffe sightings as we know that we would not be seeing any in the crater as their long legs prohibit them from descending and ascending the steep crater walls.

Passing the luxurious (and wildly expensive) Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, we knew we were almost there.  Only six lodges sit on the crater rim, offering a bed capacity of only 560 along with sixteen campsites.  Realizing how very few people are allowed here every night, it dawned on us what a privilege the journey was that we were about to undertake.

As our 4×4 climbed the steep road, we breathed a sigh of relief when we finally pulled into a parking area on the side of the road.  This was it…our first view of Ngorongoro Crater!

Standing on the viewing platform, we gazed out on the crater’s unadulterated beauty.  Far below us, we could distinguish the magnificent savannah plains, highlands and forest canopies, detect herds of large animals on the crater floor and see some safari vehicles traveling along the crisscrossing roads.  Tomorrow, that would be us.

Completing the final part of our journey, we were soon pulling into our home for the next two nights, the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge.

Settling in, we were soon enjoying cocktails while admiring the stunning sunset from the lodge’s lounge and it’s westward facing location.  Small monkeys paraded around the grounds and a couple of Cape Buffalo were spotted near the rear of the lodge foraging for their dinner.

The next morning, up bright and early and outfitted appropriately for the colder temperatures of the crater’s rim, we set out under the darkness of the new morning.  After a brief stop to check in at the Ranger’s station, we began making our way down the canopy covered road.

Centuries ago, a towering volcanic mountain, as high as Kilimanjaro, stood in this spot.  After a tremendous eruption, the volcano’s interior, empty of magma, could no longer support the weight above and collapsed on itself.  It became the world’s sixth-largest unbroken caldera with more than a hundred square miles in its flat bottom, which did not flood.  Its diverse environment of savannas, marshes, lakes, salt pans, forests and escarpments then became the home for many species of African wildlife, which we hoped to see.

As luck would have it, the first sighting of the day was of some “honeymooners”.  Not the human kind…these honeymooners were two separate sets of male and female lions almost lost in the tall grass. The lion mating ritual was one of complete interest, once the affair was explained to us by our guide.

The female, already in estrus, attracts the male who mounts her, inserting his penis, which has barbs that begin to dig into the female.  As he retracts, the pain caused to the female causes her to lash out at him, swatting her large paws at him.  As the mating ritual continues approximately every fifteen minutes for as many as five days, the female produces eggs and the chances of fertilization is increased.

Watching both of these interesting spectacles for their many attempts, we noticed one of the male’s brothers lying in wait…hoping for a chance at the female if she tired of his sibling.

Moving on, we spied many other animals that we had yet to see during our trek…a lone jackal, a pair of nocturnal bat-eared foxes returning to their den for a days rest and finally…wildebeests.  Thousands of blue wildebeests roamed the crater floor, grazing in the early morning light.

Personally, I love the wildebeests for their unique appearance.  Nicknamed “Spare Parts”, it’s easy to see why as they look like they were made from so many other animals!  Their forequarters look like they come from an ox, their hindquarters from an antelope and their mane and tail from a horse.

Driving along the countless trails that span the crater floor, a female lion was spotted alongside the road.  A few 4x4s stopped to admire her reserved beauty as she lounged in the heat of the new day.  Soon, tiring of her grassy spot, she stood and ambled over to the road, making her way between two of the safari vehicles.  Laziness prevailed and she quickly decided that the middle of the road was much better than her previous spot.  Too bad for those trying to make their way!

Continuing on, we passed another pride of lions while continuing over a hill admiring the many zebras making their way in a line along the ridge.  As we crested the hill, before us stood a most beautiful oasis!

Truly, my breath was taken away as we looked out at the clouds wrapping their misty fingers over the crater’s rim and the reflections within a pond lying before us, only broken by the occasional movement of the many hippo lounging within.

As we pulled up to the pond, preparing to have our breakfast here, I stepped out of our safari vehicle to stretch my legs and to make my way to the restroom facilities.  A huge splash and a loud grunt, however, caught my attention.  Mesmerized, I watched an extremely large hippo lunge through the pond toward another, bellowing loudly.  The next few minutes were filled with two hippos berating each other, whipping their tales and splashing wildly while engaging the other in a sinister altercation.

Knowing that many deaths are attributed to hippos each year did not deter me from venturing closer and closer to the lake in an attempt to catch this exhibition on camera, so fascinating as it was!  It was the most exciting thing we had seen thus far!

Soon, the hippos tired of each other and moved on to meld with the other hippos wading in the shallows of the basin.

Enjoying our breakfast, we marveled at our surroundings, basking in its endless beauty.  I couldn’t stop watching the clouds rolling over the top of the crater, the succession of zebras that continued to make their way over the hill behind us and to the rear of the lake and the hippos that continued to laze in the murky waters.  Honestly, I don’t know if I have ever been in a more beautiful place!

Our morning meal completed, we reluctantly moved on, migrating with the other vehicles along the dusty crater roads.  Flightless male ostriches flaunted their pink necks and plumage and my favorite feathered creature in the crater, the Secretary Bird, made itself known throughout our journey.

Our next stop was at another hippo pool.  This one and its surroundings, however, were filled with so much activity, we were unsure where to focus our attention.  In the pool, hippos lounged lazily, occasionally flipping over to flash their undersides and countless birds waded in the shallows and lingered along the banks.  Ranks of zebras, head to tail, made their way along the rear of the pool and in the distance we spotted something amazing…a pride of lions guarding their kill!

Lazing in the mid-morning sun after their filling meal, they allowed the occasional hyena and jackal to enjoy the remnants of the slaughtered Cape Buffalo.  Meanwhile, a herd of Cape Buffalo, possibly the relations of the deceased, moved closer and closer to the pride, finally coming to a standoff.  The herd, wanting to pass, stared the pride down until finally backing away and taking another path to the watering hole avoiding the many hyena and jackal roaming the area.

Reluctantly departing this array of activity, we found ourselves at a rest stop.  Taking a small break, we walked around the area, enjoying the foliage and eyeing an elephant roaming among the trees.

As usual, our safari vehicle was the last to leave the area, but as we pulled away from the rest stop, my husband noticed movement in another cluster of trees.  An enormous elephant moved out from the brush, exposing the largest set of tusks that we had ever seen.  Estimated by our guide to be about sixty years old, he stayed near the tree line.  As another vehicle pulled up to speak to our driver, we watched the old guy move away from the trees and slowly amble toward us.  His gait was slow and tired but we soon noticed him picking up speed, realizing he was heading right for us!  And…Fahad was not paying attention!  “Fahad!  Fahad!”  We weren’t sure what was going to happen and we all ducked into the vehicle just as the senior mammoth reached us and bumped the back of our 4×4!  As quickly as he came, he ambled away…”his fifth leg” swinging and obviously please with himself.  Pulses beating rapidly, we drove away and allowed him to enjoy the rest of his day while we explored the Lerai Forest, home to the tall, slim yellow barked acacia trees.

The remainder of the day was filled with monkeys, zebras, wildebeests, ostriches, gazelles and a fun pair of warthogs, covered in mud and hellbent on using a rock to give themselves a good scratching!

The day was drawing to a close and as we traveled toward home, one more thing presented itself to us.  A lion relaxed on one of the small culvert walls adjacent to the road.  So close was he to our vehicle that I could have reached out and given him a pat.  Now, I would have had a great story to tell, I’m sure, but probably would have left an appendage or two behind.

As we drove out of Ngorongoro Crater, it was hard to believe the spectacles we had witnessed.  I had  thought it would be hard to beat the Serengeti, but the crater had offered up its own predators, beasts and fowl.  Cruising the crater floor was truly one of the most amazing parts of our safari thus far.  Though we were saying goodbye at this point, we headed back to our lodge, knowing we would say our final goodbyes looking out over the crater.  The famous Ngorongoro sunset would be our ultimate adieu.

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Ngorongoro Crater

  • http://www.ngorongorocrater.org/
  • Gates and barriers open at 0600  and close at 1800, except for the Seneto Descent Gate, which close at 1600 hours.
  • ALL VISITORS TO NGORONGORO CRATER MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A LICENSED GUIDE.
  • Keep to authorized roads and tracks. No off-road driving.
  • Speed limits 25km/hour
  • Only vehicles equipped with standard safaris equipment allowed in the Crater (heavy-duty jack; chain/rope; shovel/hoe; axe/panga)
  • No more than 5 vehicles around an animal or kill

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ngorongoro Crater

The Cradle of Mankind

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

In the middle of the eastern Serengeti Plains, lies the Great Rift Valley, which stretches across East Africa.  In it, exists one of the most important paleoanthropological sites in the world.

Olduvai Gorge.

Or…is it Oldupai?

Well, both.  People now know it as Olduvai, however, the name Olduvai is a misspelling of Oldupai, the Maasai word for the wild sisal plant Sansevieria Ehrenbergii, which can be found growing in the gorge.

Whichever way anyone decides to refer to it, the ravine is the location in Tanzania that hold the earliest evidence of the existence of human ancestors.  Hundreds of fossilized bones and stone tools, dating back millions of years, have been unearthed in the area, leading paleoanthropologists to conclude that humans evolved in Africa.

In 1911, German Wilhelm Kattwinkey observed many fossil bones of an extinct three-toed horse in Olduvai Gorge and later German geologist Hans Reck found hominin remains.  Reck’s research, however, was halted by World War I.  After a visit to Reck’s site in 1929, Louis Leakey became convinced that the gorge held critical information on human origins.  Deciding to mount an expedition, he was joined by his wife, Mary.  In 1959, the paleoanthropologist-archeologist team, discovered a skull fragment belonging to an early hominin.  The skull dated to about 1.75 million years ago and indicated that hominins evolved in Africa.  Later, specimens of Homo Habilis, a more human like species, were also found in the gorge.

In addition to the human remains, the Leakeys unearthed more than 2,000 stone tools and lithic flakes.  Their research provides the most continuous known record of human evolution during the past 2 million years, as well as the longest known archaeological record of the development of stone-tool manufacturing.

In 1986, however, Olduvai Gorge, since designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, was the scene of one of the biggest and most significant findings in the scientific world, not credited to the Leakeys.  A team of Tanzanian and American archeologists excavated 302 bones and teeth belonging to a female, determined to be about 1.8 million years old.

Oldevai Gorge, often called the “Cradle of Mankind” (not to be confused with the “Cradle of Humankind” in South Africa) is now a site frequented by tourists, mostly enroute to safari destinations.

The site offers a small, yet interesting museum containing a large amount of  information about the pre-history of Homo Sapiens and the amazing discoveries made by Mary and Louis Leakey and others.  Though the information and displays are a bit dated, a new museum is currently under construction, and is probably a reason for the higher entrance fee.  Our entrance fee was taken care of by our tour, but it was noted on another travel site that it was recently raised from $10 to $35 USD.

There is a modest gift shop, adjacent to the museum, which offers more reasonable prices than the nearby Maasai village and many of the same kinds of carvings and jewelry.  There is also a monument to Dr. Sekino Yoshiharo, a Japanese scientist who traveled across the world from 1993 until 2002, spending a night at Olduvai Gorge on February 8, near the end of his journey.

At the rear of the property, you can stand on the edge of the ravine and look out over the area which has offered so much to understanding the history of mankind.  A covered area overlooking the ravine provides a shady area for guests to rest or enjoy lunch while listening to one of the curator’s explain the historic nature of the gorge.  An engaging 8 minutes…you will learn that Lucy was not found here (as many people think), but Ethiopia and you will learn about the Leakeys.  But, the main thing you will walk away with is…being asked to spread the word that it is indeed Oldupai Gorge!

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Olduvai (Oldupai) Gorge

  • http://www.olduvai-gorge.org/
  • Entrance fee (to be verified):  $35 USD per person or vehicle
  • Museum displays in both English and Swahili
  • Restrooms available on site.

The Jumping Nomads

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The Maasai.

This tribe has fascinated me for years, from the first time I saw their jumping tribesmen on a documentary highlighting the nomadic people.  I loved the action, the singing and their colorful clothing.

As I scoured the itinerary for our safari, the first thing that stood out was the visit to a Maasai village.  Yes, I was excited to see the beautiful scenery and the animals, but I was most excited to see the Maasai!

Having driven to Arusha from Nairobi, I had already spotted many Maasai along the way, walking along the roads and tending their cattle.  I had also spotted many Maasai villages dotting the landscape while flying to the Serengeti.  I was giddy with excitement, however, as we pulled off of the roadway and parked under an acacia tree in front of a village on the way from the Serengeti to Olduvai Gorge.

Many villagers, dressed in their colorful Shúkà, emerged from the entryway of their compound and lined up while one of the village elders, Lalashe, came over to greet and welcome us to the village.

While we waited for the others in our party to arrive, we mingled with the women as they decorated us with their beautiful, beaded collars.  They sang songs and smiled at us while the men, practiced their dance moves.  Soon, the others safari vehicles pulled under the acacia tree and our friends joined us for the show.

The Maasai women began to sing harmonies while one of them, the song leader, or olaranyani, sang the melody.  As she began by singing a line or title (namba) of the song, the group responded with a call of acknowlegement.  The olaranyani then sang a verse over the group’s rhythmic throat singing.  The women moved their necks…tilting their head back for an inward breath and then breathing out when their head was leaned forward.

While the women provided the music, one of the men used the Greater Kudu, or horn and the other men formed lines, moving together and chanting rhythmically, “Oooooh-yah” with a growl and staccato cough.  They thrust and withdrew their bodies, some jumping.

As their performance came to a close, we were invited into their compound and gathered under a large tree in the center.  The men continued to chant while jumping extremely high in what seemed to be a competition among them.

Eventually, we were gathered around two of the male villagers who proceeded to demonstrate how the Maasai make fire.  With a bit of a breeze, conditions weren’t right and they were unsuccessful after two lengthy attempts.  Clapping for their efforts, we then moved on to other parts of their village.

The schoolhouse was nearby and as we glanced into the small hut, the young children sang a song for us, recited their ABC’s and we inspected their lessons written on their chalkboard.  Handing over the small gifts we had brought (pens, pencils and paper) to the schoolmaster, we were thanked profusely by everyone.

The king’s son, then divided us into groups and assigned us to one of the male villagers whose job was to escort us around the village and show us how they lived.  As my group entered the small mud huts, we were greeted by darkness.  Our eyes adjusted and we noticed a small cooking area in the center and two raised sleeping pallets at the rear of the hut.  We were informed that the building of the huts are the women’s responsibility and they assist each other with the task, each hut taking about four days to build.  When the king’s son, who had led us around, was asked if he lived with all of his wives and families in one hut, we were greeted with a laugh and a funny response, “Oh, no, each of my wives have their own hut.  Women fight too much!”

Exiting the huts, we saw many women and children who had not performed during our arrival, peeking out curiously at us.  Shyly, they remained in the doorways of their huts where they could dart back in if a camera was raised.

One thing we noticed about those who were present in the village was that there were no young boys or teens.  Boys who have reached puberty participate in a rite of passage, an emorata…a circumcision ceremony performed without anesthetic, believing the pain with lead them into manhood.  The newly circumcised young men then live in another village built by their mothers (a manyatta) which has no barricade for protection, since they are now warriors and can protect themselves.  These newly minted warriors spend much of their time on walkabouts throughout the Maasai lands and can be recognized by their elaborate white face paint.  Before arriving at the village, we had spotted what we thought was a newly circumcised boy, but in actuality, it was some younger boys playing a joke on unsuspecting tourists.  They had plastered some white tape on their foreheads!  Later, however, we did see some “authentic” newly circumcised boys walking along the roadway.

Our leaders escorted us around the center of the village where tables had been set up showcasing a wide variety of crafts available for purchase.  As we walked around and selected objects of interest, we tried to keep in mind the instructions given to us by our guides about negotiations.  “Start by offering half of the price they give”.  Usually a great negotiator in African markets, I was again a bit off of my game and let my emotions get in the way of my common sense, ending up paying a bit more than I probably should have.

Walking away with a mask and a statue, I know that we had made an impact on the villager’s day to day life.  Learning to survive in the modern world, the villagers use the money they earn from their craft sales and the admission charged per safari vehicle to pay for things we take for granted like water.  Instead of walking miles to the nearest watering hole, the modern day Maasai can have water delivered!

It was then time to say goodbye.  We reluctantly handed back our colorful collars that the women had lent to us at the beginning of our visit and made our way back to our safari vehicles.  Many of the villagers came out and as we drove away, they all stood proudly, a colorful mark on a barren land, waving goodbye!

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Maasai Village

  • http://maasaiwilderness.org/maasai/
  • There are many Maasai villages in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area.  If you are with a tour company, the villages are visited on a rotating basis.  A recent change necessitates a $50 per vehicle

 

 

A Bird’s Eye View

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Not many places will compare with the Serengeti’s beauty.

Though Naabi Hill is in the Serengeti and not really a destination in itself, all visitors to the Serengeti may at some point pass through Naabi as it is one of the main gates into the Serengeti.  All guides must stop here and check in and out, a time consuming process.

Located south of the busy Seronera area, Naabi Hill is a landmark by which one can estimate distances and locations in the area since it is an extremely high point on the plain and is central to the annual great migration.

Though we were not present for the great migration when the landscape may be dotted black from the large numbers of wildebeest, the views of the Serengeti from the top were awe inspiring!  After the climb to the top, on the moderate trail, we were able to gaze out over the short, grassy plains while standing under the acacia trees which cover the summit.  Since we had not booked the balloon safari, it was great to see from a different perspective what we had seen from the ground during the past few days.

The two square mile area is home to giraffes, elephants, antelope, lion, cheetah, vervet monkeys, wildebeest and zebras. There were also many small Agama lizards along the trail and a it is a great place for bird watching with many colorful starling and maribou storks soaring overhead.

After your descent, it may be wise to utilize the facilities available…coffee shop, toilets and even a small grocery store, where you can purchase souvenirs, sodas, snacks and even a “little nip” for the ride!  There are plenty of tables and benches to rest and enjoy lunch.

For those wanting to stay in the area, there are a few lodges and camps;  Sametu Camp for only 14 guests with a front row to superb, up-front, big cat viewing and roaring, nighttime bonfires.  Serengeti Serena Lodge’s thatched, rondavel huts and manicured grounds.  Four Seasons Lodge’s oasis of luxury with its infinity swimming hole overlooking a frequented watering hole and Private Mobile Camps with wildlife a few feet from its spacious tents.

Although our stop in Naabi was a short one, while we were checked out of the Serengeti,  it was a nice place to stretch our legs and enjoy the sunny morning. It was also the perfect place to enjoy one last look out over the Serengeti on our way to Ngorongoro Crater.

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