Seeking the Star

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A year is a long way to be away from the things you love.  

My job, my friends and yes, Africa!

Africa is absolutely one of my favorite places to travel to.  I had not been to Ghana in a year and a half, so when I learned that I had a trip during my first month back to work, I was extremely excited!

Having spent so much time there in the past, I feel as though I know the city like the back of my hand. While looking through a map of the city, however, I realized that there are some things I had never seen except from maybe a cab window.

Rising bright and early in the morning, I had breakfast and then set out with a friend to investigate one of Ghana’s major landmarks…Black Star Square.

The public square, also known as Independence Square, hosts the city’s annual celebrations and other national events, including civic and military parades. 

Completed in 1961, by prime minister and President Kwame Nkrumah, to celebrate Ghana’s independence from the British, the square boasts stands to accommodate 30,000 people, the Independence Arch, the Liberation Day Monument and the Black Star Monument, also known as the Black Star Gate.

We made our way down 28 February Road approaching the square, spotting closed gates.  These gates were low enough to step over, however, and noting other people in the square, we decided to join them. 

Immediately to our left, we noticed one of the highlights, the statue of a soldier, facing the Independence Arch, which symbolizes the Ghanaians who lost their lives fighting for their country’s independence.

We then walked around the parade grounds, passing by and then under the Independence Arch and the stands reserved for the notables where we were stopped by a security guard.  Though we were trying to take a look at the view of the ocean beyond the square, I guess we found out that this part was off limits. The square, however, is massive with lots of other ground to cover and it would be a sight to behold to attend one of the country’s celebratory gatherings, especially the Independence Day parade which is held March 6th every year.

Moving on, we made our way across 28 February Road to the Black Star Gate.  As we approached, I noticed two gentlemen under the gate stand and one begin to approach. I steeled myself for a scam, however, he was very friendly and asked us if we wanted to climb to the top.  The small admittance fee allowed our entry and he would accompany us to answer any questions we might have.  

Climbing the inner staircase to the top, he chatted amicably and gave us a history of the square. 

Standing on the pinnacle, we had an amazing view of the entire square, the nearby Accra Sports Stadium, the coast and parts of the city.  The best part, however, was when our guide, Abraham, positioned us under the huge black star and photographed us with the appearance of holding it in our hands!  

We chatted a bit, took some pictures together and then headed down for views of the arch from below.  

There was a great deal of visitors while we were there and I silently wondered why I had never made it here before with it being so close to my hotel and many other attractions I had visited before!  Now I can mark it off the list, with the intent of possibly returning on March 6…that’s something I want to see!

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Black Star Square

  • Address:  28th February Roundabout, Accra, Ghana
  • Hours: 0600-1800, daily
  • Admission: free. Climb to top of Black Star Gate, 5 Ghanaian Cedi (about .83 US)

El Diario de Guatemala CATORCE

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DIA CATORCE

Wow, two weeks have come and gone very quickly! On my last morning, I was up quite early so after getting dressed, I headed over to the bakery around the corner to get breakfast. As I turned to return to my apartment, I caught a glimpse of Volcan de Agua. With nary a cloud in the sky, it stood out against the blue and was one of the clearest views I had had since I arrived. After breakfast, I took one last walk down to the Plaza Mayor and snapped a few photographs along the way. It was simply stunning!

It was finally time to grab my bags and wait for my ride back to Guatemala City. Handing over the keys to Esperanza, I felt a twinge of sadness. My trip was finally over. Last night, on my ride back to Antigua, one of the guys from my tour, who had shared transportation back with me, asked what my favorite thing was about being here in Guatemala this time. I think most people would talk about the adventures that they had but my response was this, “I simply loved having adequate time to investigate every little nook and cranny of the city, taking leisurely walks, greeting the locals and feeling like an actual part of another culture. Because of the nature of my job, I see other parts of the world in short bursts. This time, time was on my side and it was an amazing gift”.

What I learned: My husband is a saint for helping me to realize one of my dreams.

Photo of the day: Volcan de Agua

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El Diario de Guatemala TRECE

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

DIA TRECE

You know what they say, “Up with the chickens?” Well, I was up earlier than that. My alarm was set for 2:00 am but I actually awakened before it went off. That’s the beauty of going to bed at eight!

My bags were all packed and downstairs just in case I didn’t make it back due to a delayed or cancelled flight (I have to be out of my apartment by 10:00 am tomorrow, so if there was a problem, my bags could be stored). The flight attendant in me always worries about weather!

Enjoying the beauty of the vacant nighttime street while waiting for pickup.

My itinerary for today is:

3:30 am Pickup. Antigua to Guatemala City

6:30 am Flight from Guatemala City to Flores

7:20 am Arrive Flores. Meet driver/guide.

8:00 am Depart Airport for Peten to gather other travelers.

10:00 am Arrive Tikal

10:00 am – 3:00 pm ENJOY THE BEAUTY!

3:00 pm – 4:30 pm Tikal to Flores

6:20 pm – 7:20 pm Flight from Flores to Guatemala City

7:30 pm – 8:30 Meet driver. Guatemala City to Antigua

9:00 pm – 9:00 am REST AND RECOVER to head back to Guatemala City in the morning for my flight back to Atlanta.

It was rather interesting arriving at the airport for a domestic flight. I was nervous to be a regular paying passenger and at first, couldn’t figure out where the domestic departures were located. With the help of one of the shopkeepers, I finally found the entrance, only to realize how early I actually was. When the doors were finally opened, I discovered that the person checking the tickets, was also operating the X-ray machine and keeping an eye on people as they walked thru the scanner. Talk about multi-tasking! We are used to so much scrutiny that it was almost unsettling and I felt like I should ask, “Don’t you want to pat me down?”

As I sat in the gatehouse, I noticed the flight crew arriving. Omg, yes, I know I am getting to be a “senior mama” (flight attendant speak for “old flight attendant”) but the co-pilot looked like he was in grade school!

Finally, the boarding process began and as I gasped in horror (not really), at Tag Airlines small prop plane, I waved to my company’s plane parked at the next gate. We were soon on our way and the lake, adjacent to the airport and Isla de Flores made for a spectacular view as we touched down forty-five minutes later.

Tag Airlines at La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City.
View of Flores during landing.

Quickly, I spotted the person waiting for me and after a short wait, we were on our way to gather the other guests on Isla de Flores. After everyone was loaded, we were finally on our way to Tikal!

Picking up guests in Flores, Guatemala, department of Peten.

Split into two groups, Spanish and English, we headed into the jungles of the UNESCO World Heritage site. Dating back to as far as the 4th century BC, this ancient city was the epicenter of Mayan culture. Between 11,000 and 98,000 people lived here at various times and the city was laid out in with plazas surrounded by temples and palaces. Today only a fraction of the hundreds of structures have been unearthed and restored, but those that are visible are spectacular and the views from the top of many are worth the strenuous climb. The park strictly controls the number of visitors and it is advisable to have a tour guide lead the way. They are extremely knowledgeable and will make the most of your time in the park. That being said, however, in the four hours allotted to us, our group enjoyed our tour guide’s intellect, however, he seemed a bit put off by our wanting to capture the monuments photographically. I understood him to say that we were wasting time, however, when you are paying for a tour, you should be in control of the outcome. I do wish that in addition to our time with our guide, we would have had more time to spend on our own afterward.

Newly hatched cicada.
Cicada skeletons and newly hatched cicada.

All in all, my visit was amazing…but extremely hot and humid…a far cry from the past two weeks in the cooler climate of Antigua. Back at the airport and waiting for our flight to Guatemala City, we noticed the sky growing darker and the wind picking up. Exactly what I said was going to happen, did.

A thunderstorm!

And it was a doozy!

Being that it was such a small airplane, we were convinced that there was no way we were going to takeoff as we watched the lightning strikes getting closer. In the United States, the airport would have been shut down, however, we were led out of the terminal, onto the aircraft and we took off! I can’t say that I wasn’t a bit nervous, however, I’m guessing these pilots knew exactly which route to fly, around that storm and we were touching down in Guatemala City a short time later.

My last night in my cute little Antigua Airbnb was a short one but I even found time to relax and enjoy a pizza from the bar next-door…gosh, I’m going to miss that pizza!

What I learned today: A LOT about Tikal!

Photograph of the day: Tikal Temple

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Tikal National Park

  • http://tikalnationalpark.org/
  • Hours: National Park, 0600-1700, daily. Museums, 0800-1800, daily.
  • Admission: Adults (foreigners), 150 GTQ (about $20 USD). Children under 12, free. Sign up for sunrise tour to enter park before 0600, ticket fee is 250 GTQ. Tickets purchased after 1500 are valid for next day. Guatemalan citizens enter park for free on Sundays. From Flores, you can take tour companies. A return ticket with a guide will usually cost 100 GTQ or around 70 GTQ without a guided tour.
  • Getting There: Various bus companies run between Guatemala City and Flores, taking approximately 8-10 hours. Tag Airlines has flights from Guatemala City to Flores about three times daily. Additionally, you can arrive from Belize City by bus, taking approximately three hours. From Belize City to the border is approximately 1 hour and at the border, you can take a collectivo which takes about two hours (100 GTQ) to Tikal. Alternatively, there are buses from the border to Flores and from Flores you have plenty of options to arrive at Tikal.

El Diario de Guatemala DOCE

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DIA DOCE

This morning was an important one and I guess that why I was up at 3:30 am.

It was COVID test day!

It really bothers me that another country will allow me to enter with my vaccine card, yet the country where I received my vaccine requires me to have a COVID test to enter and my vaccine card carries no weight. So, on my trip, I have to spend time and money to get this test in order to return home within 72 hours of departure. With clinics not open on Sundays and only half days on Saturdays, you really have to plan accordingly.

My Airbnb host had told me of a clinic nearby that was charging $50, but thankfully, I asked around and found another about three blocks away that charged $35. They were extremely helpful with my questions during the week and greeted me warmly when they arrived.

Yes, I was the first person in line, thanks to my early awakening!

Watching the early deliveries while waiting for the clinic to open.

Heading back to my apartment after my test, I had breakfast and killed some time before heading back to get my negative result!

It was early and the day was looking to be a beautiful one, so I decided to walk to the Colegio Campania de Jesus (which was closed again) and ended up at the Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales in the Plaza Mayor. It’s a small museum that introduces the colonial life during the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries through paintings, furniture and historical artifacts. There is also an important collection of weapons which gives the museum its title.

Colegio Compania de Jesus
Colegio Compania de Jesus
View of Volcan Agua from Plaza Mayor
Plaza Mayor
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Weapons Exhibit at Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
View from Upper Level of Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Walkway in front of Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales

Across the plaza, I headed to the Museo Los Libros, but found it to be closed. I was very disappointed as I had heard that it has a beautiful interior and an interesting collection of books.

Museo Los Libros

Returning to my apartment (after a few shopping stops), I began the arduous process of packing. How do you fit your numerous purchases into your bags that had already come full? Well, that was a work in progress all day!

After lunch, I headed back out, bound for the southernmost part of town. It was a long walk, but I wanted to see El Calvario church. I had learned of this church and their procession during Semana Santa during my last visit. I don’t think we witnessed their procession, but I remember seeing the church’s location on the map and thinking what a long way they had to travel. Along the street leading to El Calvario, I noticed many small chapels that were numbered with Roman numerals. They were locked, but noticing that they led to the church, I assumed (correctly) that they were Stations of the Cross, with the final one on the church grounds.

Stations of the Cross on the way to El Calvario

El Calvario’s exterior was a bright yellow, very different from others in the city and its grounds were well maintained. Entering the church, I found it to be rather minimalistic with a barrel vault and dual-colored stained-glass windows. I didn’t stay long as I was reprimanded for taking photos. What I did learn later was that the church’s walls were once graced with paintings by 18th century colonial artist Tomás de Merlo, which were taken a few years ago by thieves. These paintings which depicted the Passion of the Christ were valued at approximately $300,000 each and were prized possessions of the church. Sadly, they have not been recovered.

El Calvario Church
El Calvario Church
El Calvario Church

One of the highlights of a visit to the church is the Esquisúchil tree in the garden which was planted in 1657 by Holy Saint Hermano Pedro de San Jose de Betancourt, Central America’s only saint. This tree, with its aromatic flowers is believed to have curative powers.

Statue of Holy Saint Hermano Pedro de San Jose de Betancourt and the Esquisúchil tree
The Gardens of El Calvario Church

Soon on my way, I passed the ruins of the old El Calvario church and then the church of San Jose de Viejo, which is still in operation and has the appearance of many of the ruined churches.

Ruins of Old El Calvario Church
The Church of San Jose de Viejo
The Church of San Jose de Viejo

Finally, I took a less direct route home, enjoyed the different scenery, eventually stopping at a Venezuelan restaurant for a quick dinner of pastelitos and tequenos! Yum! That was perfect for an early night!

Sights Around the Antigua
Sights Around the Antigua
Sights Around the Antigua
Sights Around the Antigua
Ermita de Santa Lucia
Ermita de Santa Lucia

Tikal in the morning!!!

What I learned: Bring an extra suitcase to Guatemala for your purchases.

Photo of the day: No parking

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Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales

  • https://muniantigua.gob.gt/museos-antigua-guatemala/
  • Address: 5th. Calle, Real Palacio de los Capitanes Generales de Guatemala, Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0630-2230, daily
  • Admission: Adults, national, Q5 (about 64 cents USD), Adults, foreign, Q30 (about $3.90 USD)

Museo Los Libros

  • http://mcd.gob.gt/683/
  • Address: 5a Calle Poniente, Antigua Guatemala
  • Hours: Tuesday to Friday, 0900-1600, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-1200 and 1400-1600
  • Admission: Adults, national, Q2 (about 25 cents USD), Adults, foreign, Q10 (about $1.30 USD).

El Calvario Church

El Diario de Guatemala CUATRO

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DIA CUATRO

Figuring out how to cook scrambled eggs in the microwave saved me about twenty minutes this morning. Why have I never figured this out before?

Because of my discovery, I was actually able to leisurely walk to school this morning.
I must admit, I wasn’t eager to begin my day in the classroom. I felt a bit frustrated even with the studying I had done the night before. But I was here to learn and I was going to try my hardest!

The school day began very well and I had some “Aha!” moments when I understood some forms of the verbs I was studying. I felt like I was finally getting somewhere! After my break, I returned to the table with my teacher. Like yesterday, I felt like we lost a bit of steam. On this day, I think she misinterpreted some things I told her and I began to feel like she was getting frustrated with me which, in turn, was making me frustrated. Next thing you know, she had me playing Scrabble in Spanish. Now, I suck at Scrabble in English and I pulled some bad tiles. I couldn’t even make words in English, much less in Spanish and she made me play for an hour until class was finished. Enough said.

Maybe this wasn’t the best fit after all. She was a lovely person and I enjoyed our interactions, but I was distracted by the other student and I noticed that she was spending a lot of time listening to his lesson.

During lunchtime in my apartment, I glanced out of my window at the door across the street.

Academia de Antiguena. This had been my second choice of schools.
Putting aside my quesadillas, I walked over and rang the bell. Speaking with the director, I explained my situation, was given a tour of both facilities and offered one of only two spots available for the following week.

Maybe I made the right decision…maybe not, but school is even closer, it’s a lot cheaper and has better facilities. I think that all of those are positives.

Once that was done, it was time to get my culture of the day. One of my favorite places I visited a couple of years ago was the Convento de Recoleccion. This convent and basilica were destroyed during the earthquake of 1773. The ceiling of the Basilica collapsed into the church, leaving the walls standing. Visitors are allowed to enter the remains of the basilica and make their way around the giant, boulder-like remains. It makes for some amazing photos! Connected to the basilica is the remains of the convent. It contains a few open courtyards flanked by many rooms. With not so many visitors in the city, I had the place to myself…what a peaceful afternoon!

What I learned today: Volcano Fuego is erupting nearby and there was an earthquake last Sunday. Sometimes the universe wants you to “shake it up”.

Photo of the day: Convento de Recoleccion

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Convento de Recoleccion

  • Address: 1a Calle Poniente and Avenida de la Recoleccion
  • Hours: 0900-1700
  • Admission: Adults, foreign, 40Q (about 5.50 USD)

El Diario de Guatemala TRES

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DIA TRES

Today I woke up eager to return to my classes and show off my stuff! I was feeling pretty good about yesterday!

I guess the day had other plans for me. First of all, my stove top wouldn’t heat up my pan and it took me about 20 minutes to cook my eggs, causing me to have to run to school, sans mask, getting a few dirty looks and making me arrive about a minute late. One minute late doesn’t sound so bad to most people but the flight attendant in me was freaking out…this “plane” was late and I hate making anyone wait.

My lessons began and I started out telling Heydi about my day yesterday. I was able to describe in Spanish, in pretty good detail about my trip to San Jeronimo, the supermarket, what I bought and what I had for dinner as well as what I watched on Netflix.

After this, she insisted on trying to teach me some verbs I didn’t know. The nerve! These verbs had very different endings and I was so confused. This led me to continually make simple mistakes…mistakes on things I actually knew which was completely frustrating!

She gave me homework and told me that I really need to study. Of course, I knew that I was going to have to study, but I just felt very degraded after class.
I returned to my Airbnb, made some mini quesadillas and eyed my cerveza…in that moment I felt like I really could use a beer! Later. There were things to see in the city!

The sun was out and it was warmer than usual, so I decided that I needed a little field trip and some exercise. Walking toward the north of the city, I began the climb to the top of Cerro de la Cruz, the hill that overlooks the city and sports a large cross. A few hundred steps later, I was sitting on the wall, gazing over the city and praying that the clouds would part a little more so that I could see the top of the Volcan de Agua, the volcano that towers over the area.

Cerro de la Cruz
Cerro de la Cruz
Cerro de la Cruz

While gazing over the city, I had spotted the ruins of the convent, Santa Maria Teresa De Jesus and decided that this would be my next destination. As I headed down the hill, I first stopped at the remains of the Church of Candelaria, captured a few photos and then walked to the convent. It had been one of the first ruins that my son, Ian, and I had visited two years ago and we had enjoyed its beautiful cloister and fountain. I spent some time meandering through its many rooms and was just about to leave when the gentleman who sold me my ticket asked me a question (in Spanish).

The ruins of the Church of Candelaria

Santa Maria Teresa De Jesus

“Did you see the crypt and the basilica?”

Um, no.

He showed me on the map, adjacent to the door, the layout of the building and pointing to a set of stairs in a room, that I had not entered as I thought it to be a storage room.

I followed his directions and amazingly, there was a set of steps leading down into a room which also led to the ruins of the basilica. In the far corner, there was also a set of stairs leading to the old crypt.

There was nothing much in the crypt, but as I headed back up and into the basilica, I was simply amazed. Not just because you could still see much of the workmanship being restored, but because it is baffling that visitors are allowed in this area of construction…scaffolding, tools, bags of cement and goodness knows what else filled the space. In the United States, this would have been condemned and no one allowed near, much less in the building. Despite the mess, it was wonderful to see this space up close, as I had only spied it from the street, behind the gate.

Thanking the gentleman, we exchanged pleasantries (in Spanish, of course) and I explained that I was in Antigua for Spanish school. He asked how long I had been there and I said it was my second day. He told me I was very smart for learning that much in just two days! Lol! I got a good laugh out of that but I went on letting him believe I was muy inteligente!

Continuing my explorations, I admired the architecture of the area and the unique doors and doorknockers and then headed over to the El Carmen market, pausing to snap a few photos of the ruins of El Carmen church next door.

Ruins of El Carmen Catholic Church
Ruins of El Carmen Catholic Church

I had vowed not to buy anything early in my trip, but next thing you know I was walking out with a table runner. Okay, I am a bit of a sucker sometimes…it was Father’s Day in Guatemala, after all, and he hadn’t had a sale all day!

Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen

As I exited the market, I heard a large boom! Praying it wasn’t one of the nearby volcanoes, I realized that I was feeling a few raindrops!

Time to go home.

What do you do when it’s pouring outside?

Have happy hour!

That was a good ending to the day that didn’t start so well!

What I learned: There are many hidden treasures in Guatemala, you just have to talk to the right person, in the right language, to find them!

Photo of the day: The Cloister of Convento Santa Teresa de Jesus

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Cerro de La Cruz

  • Address: Al final de la 1ª Avenida Norte, Antigua, Guatemala 03001
  • Hours: 0700-1800, daily
  • Admission: free

Convento Santa Teresa De Jesus

  • Address: 1era calle Oriente y 4a Avenida sur. Antigua Guatemala
  • Hours: 0800-1700, daily
  • Admission: Q40 (about $5.50 US)

Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen

  • Address: Avenida 3ra, 3ra Calle Oriente, Antigua 03001
  • Hours: 0800-2000, daily

The Architecture of St. Augustine

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Many worldwide cities have their own style of architecture that sets them apart.  You know what I mean…when you look at a photo, you can say “I recognize that place”.  

While St.  Augustine doesn’t entirely have one distinct look per se, although many of Henry Flagler’s creations appear similar, it definitely has a some of the oldest buildings and most historic buildings in the continental United States.  It has a classic and picturesque look with many styles from different eras…Spanish Colonial, Spanish Renaissance Revival, Moorish, Neoclassical, Queen Anne, Second Renaissance Revival, Vernacular.  It’s residences, churches and businesses are not overshadowed by skyscrapers and the city has enforced building codes to preserve the periods of architecture throughout the area. 

Many people opt to take a trolley tour through the city, jumping off at many of the attractions and landmarks.  This covers many historical edifices, however, when traveling by foot, you will encounter so much more some hidden away on mossy tree-lined streets.  As I hoofed it through the city, I was amazed at the number of historical markers describing past and present buildings as well as other important events.  I love history and this further reinforced what an amazing and rich place St. Augustine is!

Here’s a few to look out for:

The Governor’s House.  Located on the Plaza de la Constitution, this building dates back to 1598 and has been home to several government offices.  Today it operates as a museum and houses exhibits in the main lobby which highlights the city’s history. 

Spanish Dragoon Barracks.  The two-story coquina shingled roof structure was erected on the site of another current building.  The building housed the barracks for the Spanish Dragoon’s but was razed in 1822.  Today a memorial plaque stands on the site. 

Pena-Peck House.  The Pena-Peck House now operates as a Historic Museum.  Built in 1750, the house is a fabulous example of the meshing of three distinct styles, First Spanish, Territorial and British, thereby making it larger than many of its neighbors. The structure also operates as The Woman’s Exchange carrying unique works of art, fashion and home decor and is a much sought-after wedding venue.

Dr. Peck House.  Dating back to 1750, this house served as the home of the Royal Treasurer and later, the Governor.

Tovar House and Gonzalez-Alvarez House.  Together, these two houses comprise the Oldest House Museum Complex with the Tovar House taking the prize for the city’s Oldest House.  Located on St. Francis Street, these structures are on the Old Town Trolley tour (Stop #16) and open to the public.  Dating back to the 1700s, these two homes have a rich history and have been occupied by many over the years…the living and some say the “dead”.  Reports of a shadowy male figure, strange lights and moving objects attract those not only interested in the buildings’ historical status!

St. Francis Barracks.  Once part of a Franciscan Chapel, this building housed the British Military from 1763-1783, the Spanish from 1783-1821 and then the United States.  Today, the barracks and military reservation house the Headquarters of the Military Department of the State of Florida and the Headquarters of the National Guard.

St. Augustine Visitor Information Center.  While the building itself is a new construction, I beg you to stop by and check out the Old Spanish Trail Zero Milestone on the center’s grounds as well as Fuente de Los Canos de San Francisco.  The Old Spanish Trail was opened in 1929 and was constructed to provide a continuous highway route from Florida to California and its name pays homage Spanish heritage and missions of the southwest and the south.  Nearby, the set of masks that decorate the fountain was gifted to St. Augustine by the City of Aviles, the birthplace of  Pedro Melendez, St. Augustine’s founder.  They are reproductions of the six faces that serve as waterspouts for the municipal fountain in the San Francisco neighborhood of Aviles.  Also, out the lovely clock near the Visitor’s Center parking garage.

Water Wheel at Mill Top Tavern.  The working water wheel is a 19th century grist mill driven by a well at the bottom of the wheel pumped to drive the wheel.  Quite the unexpected piece of equipment as you venture into this little plaza…worth a look-see or an outdoor meal nearby to watch it work its magic.

The Salcedo House.  On this site stands the former home of Jorge Biassou, the nation’s first black general in 1796.  Biassou was one of the original leaders of the slave uprising in Haiti and for his service to the Spanish against the French, he became a Spanish General and Florida’s second highest paid official.

Ximenez- Fatio House. Built in 1798 for use as a general store, tavern and family home.  Later in operated as a boarding house to provide lodging for fortis earliest tourists.  Today the house operates as a lifestyle museum highlighting the history and heritage of Florida.

There are so many more buildings to discover in St. Augustine, some of which I’ve previously covered in my blog. Put on your sneakers and get ready to do a lot of walking and a lot of exploring!

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Governor’s House

  • Address:  48 King Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  Monday thru Saturday, 1000-1700, Sunday, 1300-1700. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
  • Admission:  General Admission, free.  Donations accepted.

Spanish Dragoon Barracks

  • Address:  Cordova Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  none, marker can be read from sidewalk.
  • Admission:  Not open to the public

Pena-Peck House

  • Address:  143 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  Friday and Saturday,  1100-1600
  • Admission: free, donations accepted 

Dr. Peck House

  • Address:  St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours:  none, marker can be read from sidewalk.
  • Admission: Not open to the public

Tovar House

  • Address:  14 and 22 St. Francis Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  1000-1700, daily.  Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
  • Admission: Adults, $8.00, Seniors (55+), $7.00, Students (valid id), $4.00, Children (ages 0-6), free, Military (valid id), $7.00 

Old Spanish Trail Zero Milestone, Fuente de Los Canos de San Francisco, St. Augustine Visitor Center

  • Address:  10 S. Castillo Drive, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  Visitor Center, 0830-1730, daily.  Grounds, 24 hours, daily.
  • Admission:  free

Water Wheel at Mill Top Tavern

  • Address:  19 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Salcedo House

  • Address:  42 St. George Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  none, marker can be read from sidewalk.
  • Admission:  Not open to the public

Ximenez- Fatio House

  • Address:  20 Aviles Street, St. Augustine, Florida. 32084
  • Hours:  Monday thru Saturday, 1000-1700
  • Admission:  By tour, Adults, $10.00, Students/Seniors/Active Military/First Responders/Educators, $8.00, Saint John’s County Residents, $5.00

King’s Castle

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While visitor’s may be aware of the connection of two of King Streets most famous landmarks, Flagler College and The Lightner Museum, many may not know that these came to fruition because of the Villa Zorayda.

Villa Zorayda, an architectural masterpiece, was built by Franklin Smith in 1883, in the Moorish style of the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Spain. When Henry Flagler, millionaire American industrialist, founder of Standard Oil and the Florida East Coast Railway, arrived in St. Augustine in 1883 with his new wife, they found the hotel facilities and transportation systems to be inadequate. Flagler, intrigued by the stunning Villa Zorayda, offered to buy it for his honeymoon but was turned down by the owner, Franklin W. Smith. Flagler then went on to build his own architectural masterpieces on King Street.

Villa Zorayda, also known as Zorayda Castle, was Smith’s winter home and housed his extensive art and antique collection. Over the years, it was utilized as a restaurant, a nightclub, a gambling casino and a hotel. After renovations in 2003, it was reopened to the public in 2008 as a museum.

My first encounter with the architectural marvel was while riding the Old Town Trolley. As we drove through the parking lot to drop off some riders, I was intrigued with the beautiful style, but it wasn’t until the next day when I had a bit of time on my hands to hot foot it over for a quick look-see.

Of course, as I entered, I was met with my least favorite phrase, “Photography Not Permitted”. Argh! Still, I paid my admission, put on my audio guide headphones and started my tour in the small study.

Whoa! This place was amazing! Had I stepped into a middle eastern palace? It sure looked like it!

The trim, the gold detailing, the gorgeous hand-painted tiles! And this was just in the first room, the Prayer Room. Each of the rooms were similarly styled and filled with Franklin Smith’s art and antique collection, now owned by Abraham Mussallem, an authority on oriental rugs and Egyptian artifacts who also purchased the villa in 1913.

The highlight of the villa is the central two-story center court which can be gazed upon from both levels. Rooms surrounding this courtyard are similarly decorated and are bedecked with alabaster and plaster reliefs, replicas of the walls of the Alhambra Palace. “There is no conqueror but God” is reproduced in the tracery of the Alhambra and is inscribed in Arabic script above the front entrance. Filling the space are hand painted wood panels, intricately designed doorways and geometrically shaped windows and colorful stained glass. There are Middle Eastern brass lamps, Oriental rugs, sculptures, carved furniture and Egyptian artifacts throughout. The most curious piece of the collection, however, is the Sacred Cat Rug made from the hairs of ancient cats that roamed the Nile River and is over 2400 years old.

The highlight of the villa is the central two-story center court which can be gazed upon from both levels. Rooms surrounding this courtyard are similarly decorated and are bedecked with alabaster and plaster reliefs, replicas of the walls of the Alhambra Palace. “There is no conqueror but God” is reproduced in the tracery of the Alhambra and is inscribed in Arabic script above the front entrance. Filling the space are hand painted wood panels, intricately designed doorways and geometrically shaped windows and colorful stained glass. There are Middle Eastern brass lamps, Oriental rugs, sculptures, carved furniture and Egyptian artifacts throughout. The most curious piece of the collection, however, is the Sacred Cat Rug made from the hairs of ancient cats that roamed the Nile River and is over 2400 years old.

Sacred Cat Rug

It was awe-inspiring to wander from room to room studying each piece of the collection, including items from its gaming and club days. My favorite room, however, was on the second floor…the Harem Room. More of a small porch, it had a small star-shaped window to peek into the room and decorated with blue and white tiles and ornamentation. An exquisite wooden swing hung in the entry area to this room and I was tempted to take a quick ride…

Harem Room

I did not, of course, but you know what I did do?

I snuck a few pictures…okay more than a few…since the woman manning the front desk wasn’t too worried about interacting with the customers…even when paying…much less watching to see if we were disobeying instructions!

 In all, my visit lasted about forty-five minutes, but was worth the exploration of this unique property and its furnishings. If you are visiting St. Augustine and making your way down King Street to witness the unique stunning structures that are Flagler College and the Lightner Museum, take a bit of time to stop in and check out the Castle of King Street, Villa Zorayda.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Villa Zorayda

  • https://villazorayda.com/
  • Address: 83 King Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: Monday to Saturday, 1000-1700, Sunday 1100-1600. Closed Easter, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
  • Admission: Adults (ages 13-59), $12.00, Children (ages 7-12), $5.00, Seniors (ages 60 and over), $11.00.
  • Parking: Free parking for one vehicle while visiting the museum.

Just Like the Caribbean

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Of all the things to love about St. Augustine, there is one that stands out.

Castillo de San Marcos.

I love visiting forts and have been to many throughout the world. What stands out to me about this particular one, however, is that even though it is poised on American soil, as you gaze upon its coquina walls, you can’t help but feel like you’ve been transported to the Caribbean.

Sitting on the shores of Matanzas Bay, the Castillo San Marcos National Monument was built over 340 years ago by the Spanish to protect the sea routes and the city. Builders were brought from Havana and workers retrieved the soft coquina stone from Anastasia island to construct the 26 foot high star-shaped walls over the course of twenty-three years.

Over time, the Castillo de San Marcos underwent many changes including the raising of its walls an additional six feet and the transference of ownership multiple times. While the Spanish instituted its construction, occupation was later transferred by treaty to the British and renamed St. Marks. The Spanish regained the fort in 1784 and changed the name back to its original moniker. In 1821, Spain sold the property to the United States, which renamed it Fort Marion (after Francis Marion) and appropriated it for use by the United States Army until 1899. In 1861, Florida, which had joined the Confederate States of America, gave the fort to the Confederates however, during the following year, the fort was taken by the Union. During this time, storerooms were converted to prison cells and Native Americans (among them Chief Osceola) were held captive in the fort as well as prisoners during the Spanish-American War in 1898. A year later, the fort was discontinued as a military base and named a national monument in 1900 with its original name being restored in 1942.

Over its illustrious history, Castillo de San Marcos has flown six different flags and today remains the oldest and largest masonry fortress within the continental United States. Definitely something to see outside of the Caribbean!

As I made my way to the ticket booth, I anxiously eyed the extensive line snaking out from the entrance. Only one hundred people were being allowed to visit the fort at one time, however, the line moved much quicker than I anticipated and I was walking past the drawbridge and into the fort’s courtyard before I knew it.

Much like other forts I have visited prior, there were two levels to explore…the lower level which housed many exhibits, prison cells and living and working quarters and the upper level which provided expansive views of the historic city, the bay and nearby Anastasia Island, whose natural elements helped to birth the structure. While I enjoyed wandering from from room to room on the lower level, it is always the upper levels that are most fascinating with it guard towers and ornately engraved cannons.

A popular tourist attraction in St. Augustine, the fort is run by the National Park Service and is well preserved and maintained. After your tour of this historical structure, spend some time walking along the waterfront area and enjoy the expanse of ground that fronts the fort. Take a deep breath, close your eyes and imagine…with its water views and palms trees, it certainly does feel as though you are in the presence of a great Caribbean citadel.

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Castillo de San Marcos National Monument

  • https://www.nps.gov/casa/index.htm
  • Address: 1 S Castillo Dr, Saint Augustine Beach, FL 32084-3252
  • Hours: 0900-1730 (last admission 1700), daily. Park grounds closed from midnight until 0530. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas Day.
  • Admission: Adults (16 years and over), $15.00 (good for 7 consecutive days). Children (15 years and younger), free if accompanied by adult. Maximum capacity of 100 visitors in the fort at any time.
  • Parking: The city of St. Augustine maintains a parking lot in front of the Castillo. Parking is $2.50 per hour and paid at automated stations which accept currency, credit and debit. The city’s parking garage is located a block away and provides additional shaded parking.

The Whole Ball of Wax

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Fog is often a problem in coastal areas and it seems that St. Augustine gets its fair share of foggy mornings and evenings.

Setting out early on my last day, the plan was to visit Castillo de San Marcos National Monument, however, as I made my way towards the historic district, I noticed that the fort was barely visible in the pea-soup-like gloom. Thinking about the photographs that I had hoped to capture, I decided that this point of interest might have to wait until later when the haze had dissipated and the sun was high above, illuminating the old structure.

But what could occupy me in the meantime?

Walking away from the waterfront area, I happened upon Potter’s Wax Museum. I had already visited the statue of Henry Flagler which has a seat of honor on the sidewalk in front of the museum. To be honest, the museum wasn’t at the top of my list of things that I really wanted to see, but as I checked the hourly weather forecast and realized that the fog was going to be here for a little while, I decided that it was good as anything else to occupy my time.

Having visited Madame Tussaud’s in London, Amsterdam and Las Vegas, I knew the caliber of these attractions. Did I expect to see the same quality of art in this building that is the oldest pharmacy in the United States? Probably not, but the oldest wax museum in the United States inside of the oldest pharmacy in the United States was probably worth a look!

The small lobby is the ticket office for the wax museum but it should be given a few minutes inspection before continuing. A collection of ancient medications and medical objects are housed in two large glass cases…elixirs to cure headaches, malaria, and fevers to pharmaceutical scales, mortars and pestles, an old cracked leather doctor’s bag and a faded eye chart. There is also a rustic memorial to Seminole Indian Chief Tolomato as well as a wide variety of souvenirs filling the space.

A photo of George L. Potter, the museum’s founder, greets visitors as they enter the museum portion of the building. Fascinated by wax figures he encountered on a visit to London as a child, it was his dream to create this attraction in 1949. Instead of the celebrities that are commonly seen in the grand wax museums today, he set out to preserve the likenesses of great American leaders, statesmen and significant historical figures. Combining waxes from France, hair from Italy and the most skilled artisans, he sought to give the American public what Europeans had at their fingertips. The first figures were produced in Belgium and shipped to the old dispensary on Orange Street where they still reside today.

The historical figures still make up a large part of the museum, however, in addition to American presidents, past and present composers and musicians, artists, innovators, soldiers, kings and queens, there was a smidgen of current celebrities. It was fun to see their likenesses up close, pose for pictures and pretend I was actually standing in their presence.

The Chamber of Horrors in the rear of the museum, not for the faint of heart, housed a collection of those that graced the screens of the most horrifying movies to date…Frankenstein, Freddy Krueger, the Creature From the Black Lagoon, to name a few and in the adjacent room, our favorite Star Wars characters lined up for photo opportunities.

While my visit only lasted about an hour, it was enlightening and the enjoyment I experienced most unexpected. Hoping only to find something to help me pass the time, I actually found a gem. The intimacy of Potter’s museum was a contradiction to what I had experienced in London, Amsterdam and Las Vegas and I can see why it attracts thousands of visitors each year.

George Potter gave us the whole ball of wax and then some!

Finally bidding a farewell to some of Florida’s royalty and founders, I headed out into the late morning to find the fog lifting and the Castillo visible against a backdrop of the waters of Matanzas Bay. No wax figures along the waterfront, but definitely lots of history!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Potter’s Wax Museum

  • https://www.potterswaxmuseum.com/
  • Address: 31 Orange Street, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $12.13, Children (ages 4-12), $7.07, Children (under 3 years), free