architecture – Page 29 – Snapping The Globe

In Case of Attack…

During the Cold War, the threat of a nuclear attack was very real for all living in Czechoslovakia.

Czech citizens were constantly brainwashed to hate everything from the west. Children were taught in schools and adults at work to be constantly prepared to evacuate in the event of a nuclear attack and how to handle the effects of an attack. Suitcases were packed with the essentials needed to survive in the bunkers…radios, batteries, food.

The bunkers were not designed for comfort, but merely a means to keep people alive for a couple of weeks until plans could be made to evacuate the people to the countryside.

During one of my “offbeat things to do” searches for Prague, I came across the Nuclear Bunker tour. Tour times are offered twice a day…once in the morning, which did not quite work with our arrival time, while on layovers. The other tour, at 2:30, meant that I could maybe get a half hour of sleep before heading down to the tour office to sign up, but after flying all night, somehow I never made it. So, finding myself with extra time in Prague while visiting with my son, I decided that it was now or never.

The tour office, located in the Art Passage, just past the U Prince hotel, is a small cubicle next to the Money Exchange office on the left hand side of the passage, a few feet after stepping inside. Finding it closed for lunch from 1:00 until 2:00, we walked out to the Old Town square to watch the Astronomical Clock perform its two o’clock show before returning to purchase our tickets. Seemingly, an extremely popular tour, we were amazed with the amount of people who purchased their tickets after us and began their wait for the tour to begin.

Beginning as a walking tour, we departed Old Town and encountered many places that played a role in the Cold War era, including the Secret Police headquarters and Wenceslas square. It was in Wenceslas Square that Jan Palach, a student of history and political economy at Charles University in Prague, set himself on fire on January 16, 1969 to protest the invasion of the Soviet Union. A very inconspicuous monument in front of the National Museum marks the place of his death.

Other places of interest, such as the Reduta Jazz Club, which attempted to promote Jazz at the time when this genre was condemned by the Communist regime, and artwork by Czech artist David Cerny were pointed out, including “Hanging Out” a Colonel Sanders-sequel figure that dangles suicidally from a rooftop near Old Town, the giant babies that climb the Zizkov TV Tower and the Franz Kafka Rotating 42-Layer Head.

While most of these places and points of interest can be visited on your own, the most riveting parts of the walking tour were the stories that our tour guide Katarina told us of her family’s experiences with communism. The Melantrich Balcony, near Wenceslas Square, served as a tribune for speakers to the masses of protesters in 1989 during the Velvet Revolution. Although just a young child, she accompanied her parents to this site to hear Vaclav Havel address protesters at the beginning of the fall of communism.

After our visit to Wenceslas Square, we boarded tram number 9 (included in the tour price) for the final part of our tour. A few stops later we were making our way down to the Nuclear Bunker.

Climbing down the four story spiral staircase, one can only imagine the panic and chaos you would encounter in the event of an actual nuclear attack. Stale, musty air greets your nostrils and not much else. Designed to give each person one meter of space, it is a stark and cramped area, although interesting to note, this particular bunker has been used as a club venue in recent years.

Walking down the corridor, past a storage area, we then made our way through the bathroom facilities and into the medical area. This location offers museum-like displays depicting the area’s usage. The next corridor offered a wide array of gas masks, many pictures from protests and other interesting protective suits designed for children.

Passing thru the next doorway into the small vestibule, an exhibit for a communications office is presented in an adjacent room and a depiction of the decontamination area. A weird mannequin wearing a Santa hat and called “Santa” guards the door. Walking further, you are confronted with strange displays of children wearing gas masks and carrying guns and dolls. Crates of ammunition (hopefully disabled) line the walls.

Finally, the fun part. A large assortment of coats, hats, gas masks and guns are available for visitors to try on and take pictures with alongside gas-mask wearing mannequins and a large Russian flag. Just don’t push the BIG RED button!

After making your way back through the many corridors, you climb the spiral stairway once again. Upon exiting the heavy steel doorway, you can take a deep breath of fresh air and gaze upon a still intact civilization.

A small local bar occupies the area outside of the bunker. In the event of being a little unnerved during your time so far down inside the earth, a cold beer can help to take the edge off!

A short walk takes everyone back to the tram and to Wenceslas Square where your tour guide leaves you to make your way back to your hotel or to your next destination!

In such a beautiful city, with photo opportunities everywhere you look, it’s hard to imagine the city’s dark past. Unless you are privy to the specific locations, one would never know that there are countless bunkers (in addition to the deep metro stations) that still lie in wait in the event of a nuclear attack. Definitely one of the most unique tours I have ever taken, visiting the Nuclear Bunker was most definitely a highlight of all my visits to this amazing city.

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Communism and Nuclear Bunker Tour

http://www.prague-communism-tour.com/#_=_
Address: Malé Námêstí, 459/11, Praha 1, 110 00
Tour Times: 1030 and 1400, daily, except December 24 and 25
Tour Price: Adults, 600 CZK (about $25), Students, 500 CZK (about $21)

The Seeker of Independence

Walking down Barnes Road, toward the coast, on many occasions, to purchase local crafts at the Arts Market in Accra, I’ve noticed a large structure in a park-like setting. Checking a local map, I discovered it to be the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial, dedicated to the memory of the prominent Ghanaian leader Kwame Nkrumah.

Dr. Nkrumah, the former prime minister and Ghana’s first president, led Ghana to seek its independence fifty-nine years ago. Born on the country’s gold coast, he was educated in the United States, earning a Bachelor of Arts degree in economics and sociology in 1939, a Bachelor of Theology from Lincoln seminary, a Master of Arts degree in philosophy and a Master of Science in education from the University of Pennsylvania in Philadelphia. Upon his return to Ghana, he made brief stops in Sierra Leone, Liberia, and the Ivory Coast. He then started his political career by working for the colony’s first true political party, the United Gold Coast Convention in December of 1947. His first office, Leader of Government Business, eventually led to his appointment as prime minister. After Ghana’s independence in 1957, he was elected president, with his reign ending in 1966 when he was deposed. Going in to exile in Guinea, he was never to return to Ghana during his lifetime. Falling ill, he died in Bucharest, Romania in 1972, while seeking medical treatment. Buried in Guinea, where he was served as co-president, he was finally returned to Nkroful, Ghana, the village of his birth. The empty tomb, can still be found in Nkroful, however, Nkrumah’s remains were transferred to the large national memorial tomb in Accra.

Having an extra day on my most recent trip to Ghana, I decided to dedicate it to seeing more of what Accra has to offer. Since the Nkrumah monument was not far from the hotel, I decided to make it the focus of my day.

Arriving at the front of the property, there are no signs which direct you to the entrance. A security guard pointed me to an open gate and said that I was welcome to walk throughout the complex. After entering the grounds and being asked for my ticket at the museum, however, I was finally directed to an entrance gate on the far right side of the property, where I paid my admission fee.

The impressive structure that dominates the property is a mausoleum, designed by Don Aurthur and houses the bodies of Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, former prime minister and Ghana’s first president, and his wife Fathia Nkrumah.

When approaching the mausoleum from High Street, it is preceded by statues of bare-chested Ghanaian flute blowers and other musicians sitting in long fountains of water. The fountains were not operating, taking away from what I would imagine would be a beautiful sight. Directly in front of the mausoleum, is an impressive bronze statue of Kwame Nkrumah standing in the precise spot that he declared Ghana’s independence on March 6, 1957. The mausoleum is reached by concrete bridges on all four sides. The five acres of gardens surrounding the fountains and the mausoleum are alive with old and newly planted trees from dignitaries of other countries.

The mausoleum, built with Italian marble, represents an upside down sword, a symbol of peace in the Akan culture. The black star at the apex symbolizes unity and a skylight at the top of the Mausoleum illuminates the grave which is in the center of the mausoleum.

Another Nkrumah statue, behind the mausoleum, stands headless. Originally residing in front of the Old Parliament House, this statue was vandalized and de-headed during the February 24, 1966 military and police coup d’etat. The recovered head, which was presented by a patriotic citizen to the information service department, sits next to the statue.

A small museum is at the rear of the property. This museum, houses many of the personal items of Dr. Nkrumah as well as correspondence and photographs of his meetings with many important world dignitaries.

There is also a small gift shop at the rear right side and a refreshment stand on the left side of the property with some picnic tables.

The Memorial is interesting to visit and very educational for those unaware of Ghana’s history. Though needing a bit of upkeep, it is also a fitting tribute to a great man.

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Kwame Nkrumah Memorial and Mausoleum

Address: High Street, Accra, Ghana
Hours: unknown
Admission: 10 cedi

The Light and the Village

There isn’t a large list of tourist attractions and museums in the city limits of Accra. Venturing out to many places outside the city, I had only visited a couple of markets and one of the beaches within its boundaries.

Having read about the Jamestown lighthouse, I knew that it wasn’t very far from my hotel and maybe a cool place to get some pictures.

Hailing a cab outside the hotel was easy…getting the driver to understand where we were going was another story! A short drive later, we were in Osu, Accra’s downtown area. Realizing that he had not understood me, I finally had to show him a picture of the lighthouse on my phone. Another short drive and we were headed past my hotel again toward the coast and Jamestown.

Finding the brightly painted, red and white lighthouse locked, a woman finally appeared and informed us that she was the keeper of the structure. We each paid a 10 cedi entry fee and were allowed access to the interior. No longer functioning and in various states of disrepair, the lighthouse interior is not very impressive. After climbing the winding rickety stairs, however, we were rewarded with sweeping views of the coast, Fort St. James and the Jamestown fishing village directly below.

Quite windy at the top, it was a refreshing respite from the intense African heat. The walkway around the top felt sound although we tended to steer clear of the railing, unaware as to how often the lighthouse is inspected and maintained. We were able to see the light within the structure as it was still intact, although we were told it is inoperable.

Soon after our arrival at the the top of the structure, we were joined by a young Ghanaian man who introduced himself as Nice One. I was extremely skeptical of his offers to be our guide (for a donation) as we were already there and were really only interested in taking photos. Knowing full well how things sometimes work in Ghana, I continually rebuffed his offers, although he insisted on giving us the history of the lighthouse.

Built by the British in 1871 at James Fort, the lighthouse was replaced by the current structure in the 1930’s. Standing at 112 feet above sea level, it has a visibility of 16 nautical miles. It has stood tall and proud and been a part of the Jamestown community for many years.

Curious about the village below, I began to ask Nice One about the community and the seawall that extended adjacent to it. An extremely personable man, he answered my questions and eventually won over my trust. Speaking with my colleagues, we agreed to have him lead us on a tour of the adjacent fishing village.

Leading us down the road toward the village, he briefed us on village life and instructed us that if we wanted to take pictures, to ask him first. Without thinking, one of my coworkers lifted her camera to take a picture of a boat and was met with yells and cursing by some of the village men who thought that she was taking a picture of them. After a few minutes of fast-talking, Nice One thankfully seemed to calm them down and we were allowed to continue with our tour.

The villagers stayed mostly to themselves, but occasionally we were met with curious glances and more often than not, very suspicious glances. Everyone was busy with the tasks of the day. Racks of fish were drying and being smoked. Mountains of coconuts husks sat near bottles of coconut oils. Fish were being cooked on numerous grills. Some men were carving boats. Others, we could see out on the water, making their catch.

The children were very welcoming and we were able to snap some photos of them playing. We were then brought to the school where we were introduced to some of the children. A simple structure, the school had no walls, only a roof and a dirt floor, however, the teacher was quite proud to show us around.

As our tour came to an end, we decided upon a tip to Nice One of 20 cedi for his time showing us a side of Ghana that many are not fortunate to see. He walked us to the main road and insisted upon hailing a cab for us and gave me his phone number so that I could call if we needed anything.

Feeling quite fortunate to have things work out for our visit to the lighthouse, I do realize that many people may find themselves in an uncomfortable situation when visiting this area. Reading reviews by other travelers, I learned of those hassled by young men insisting that the entrance fee be paid to them or that they were the official tour guides for the light house. Others told tales of having knives pulled on them. Definitely not a place to be wandering alone, one should arrange for a tour prior to their arrival with official city tour guides or hope to find someone as reliable as Nice One, as we did. Never would I ever recommend to anyone to enter the Jamestown village on their own. The people are quite suspicious of outsiders and seem to resent tourists treating their town as a tourist attraction.

Fort Christiansburg — Fort Christiansborg

Additionally, the Fort Christiansborg, across the street from Jamestown fishing village, is often listed as an attraction on some travel sites, as it was the place that Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana’s first prime minister and president was held for three years beginning in 1950. The place has not been maintained and the fort is not open for visits.

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Jamestown Lighthouse

Cleland Road, Accra, Ghana
Hours: not published
Admission: varied

The Amazing Acropolis

High above Athens, the Acropolis keeps watch over the city.

The flat topped, steep and rocky hill is the home to the Parthenon, the Erechtheion, the Propylaia and the temple of Athena Nike. The Acropolis’ monuments have survived for almost twenty-five centuries through wars, explosions, bombardments, fires, earthquakes, sackings, interventions and altercations and still they stand after the multitude of changes that Greece has seen over time. The heart of the city, it still represents what it originally stood for, Democracy, Philosophy, Freedom of Expression and Speech and a place where people from all continents converge.

Having visited the Acropolis on many occasions, my original intent was to visit the Acropolis museum. After finding that photography is not allowed within the building, I decided to head to the Acropolis first, saving the museum for later when I would need a place to cool off from the heat of the day.

The line for entry was quite long, encompassing tourists from many countries, however the major shock was the difference in price from my last visit. Two years ago, the admission price was only 12€…today, the entry fee has jumped to 20€. Additionally, the price from two years ago, included all of the ancient sites, Dionussus Theater and the Southern slope, Temple of Zeus, Agora and Agora Museum, Hadrian’s Library, Kerameikos and Roman Agora and was valid for four days. Today, you must purchase a Multi-site ticket which covers the above attractions and costs 30€.

Making my way thru the gates, I headed up the winding path among the ruins that line the pathway, with a stop to rest and admire the theater of Herod Atticus, built by the Romans in 161 AD. The theater is still used today for classical concerts, ballet and performances of high cultural value. Further on is the Theater of Dionysious, the first stone theater and home to Sophocles, Aeschylus, Euripides and Aristophanes. Rebuilt around 342 BC it was then enlarged by the Romans for gladiator flights.

After the remaining climb, I found myself at the entrance, the Propylaea, dating back to 432 BC. A magnificent first view of your destination, it is also the point where the most excited tourists, stop to take group pictures and selfies. Navigating your way around these individuals proves to be challenging, especially on the smooth marble steps.

On your left is the Pinacotheca and a Hellenistic pedestal and on the right, the tiny temple to Nike Athena. The temple commemorates the Athenians victory over the Persians and sits on a platform overlooking the islands of the Saronic Gulf.

Walking out onto the plateau, that is the Acropolis, your first views are of the Parthenon on your right and the Erecthion on your left. The buildings of the Acropolis were built by Pericles in the fifth century BC and were considered the most sacred buildings and the safest part of the city. As little as 150 years ago, there were still dwellings on the Acropolis.

The Erecthion, my favorite part of the Acropolis, contains the porch of the maidens or Caryatids. These statues are copies as four of the original statues reside in the Acropolis museum and the fifth, in the British museum. The building sits on the most sacred site of the Acropolis where Poseidon and Athena had their contest over who would be the Patron of the city. Athena, declared the victor, had the great city named for her. The building itself is the real religious temple of the Acropolis, sitting on what was the northeast corner of what was the original temple. This temple was burned and destroyed by the Persians in 480 BC.

Take the time to walk around the Erecthion and inspect all side of this structure before continuing to the Parthenon. You can get some really nice photos when the sun is behind the building in the afternoon.

The Parthenon, still being taken apart and being put together from the wear and tear of centuries of exposure to the elements is encased in scaffolding, taking away from the full beauty of the building. Restoration has been going on for the past thirty years and will probably continue onward for an equal amount of time. That being said, impressive in scale and that which we associate the Acropolis with, it is an architectural marvel. Designed by Kallikrates and Iktinos as a tribute to the past and the achievements of the Ancient Athenians it was also erected to house a giant statue of Athena. It was also not a temple or place or worship as most people assume and used as a treasury to store the tribute paid by the other Greek city-states and a storage facility for Turkish gunpowder.

After making your way around the Parthenon, move over to the northeast corner of the Acropolis to where the mighty Greek flag flies high. Standing in this location you can see many landmarks including Mount Lycabettos, the National Gardens, the Plaka, Hadrian’s Arch, the Temple of Zeus and the Olympic stadium. On a clear day, you can also see the port of Pireaus and some of the islands beyond.

After making your way back to the Propylaea, consider an exit to the right to visit the rock of Areopagos. The location where St. Paul spoke to the people of Athens in AD 51, there is a tablet embedded in the stone that contains his words. Despite a very slippery climb, it offers a superb view of the Agora, the Plaka, Monastiraki, Omonia and much of Athens as well as a great place to watch the sunset. Continue onward down the hill toward the Agora and other parts of this fabulous, historic city.

Because I have visited the rock of Areopagos on a few other occasions, I decided to make my way back the way I had come and toward the Acropolis museum, my original destination. Passing the many artists that line Dioysiou Aeropagitou street, one caught my eye. Purchasing two paintings, it suddenly dawned on me that I would have to carry my prizes with me for the rest of the night. So…the museum or my hotel?

Big decision…the Acropolis museum would have to wait until another day…again.

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Acropolis

http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/gh351.jsp?obj_id=2384
Hours: 0800-2000, closed for some holidays
Admission: 20€
Getting There: Metro, Acropolis, then walk via Dionysiou Areopagitou Street. Metro, Monastiraki, then walk through the archaeological site of Ancient Agora, or Plaka district.

Crossing the Colorado

Continuing on my way from the Valley of Fire, I turned out of the park and headed toward Lake Mead, the largest reservoir in the United States. Measuring 112 miles long, when the lake is full, it offers 759 miles of shoreline and brilliant clear blue water. Stopping on numerous occasions along the way to admire the view, I paid no attention to the time, but instead to the breathtaking vistas before me.

An hour’s drive later, I soon came to the checkpoint for Hoover Dam. After passing through the secured area, I proceeded to the dam parking lot, located nearest the visitor’s center.

Being that it was the end of the day, the Visitor Center was closed, however, having done the tour on a few occasions, I was more interested in seeing the exterior of the dam and the interesting views it provides.

Walking along the top of the dam, I crossed over to the Arizona side (neglecting to change my watch!) and back again, stopping to photograph both the Colorado River side as well as Lake Mead. Looking up to the arched Mike O’Callaghan–Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge, which crosses the Colorado River, I could see people standing and walking along the bridge. Realizing that the parking lot I had passed on the way to the dam, contained a trail up the the bridge, I decided to head that way.

Spanning the gap of Black Canyon, the bridge connects Arizona and Nevada, creating a faster route across the river. Open to traffic, it has a sidewalk for visitors who wish to gain a better view of Hoover Dam as well as an interpretive plaza. While under construction, the bridge was referred to as the Hoover Dam Bypass, however, the name was changed to honor the former governor of Nevada, Mike O’Callaghan and Pat Tillman the former professional football player killed in Afghanistan in 2004.

Parking in the lot, near the winding concrete walkway, I joined the hoards of tourists heading to the top of pathway. Heading to the middle of the bridge for the best view, I captured some photos amidst the windy conditions and then made my way back to solid ground. Not normally afraid of heights, I must admit, the dizzying height of the structure, made me a little nervous.

With nightfall nearing, I decided that my adventurous day was coming to a close. Reflecting on my day, which started with uncertainty, I had quickly shifted gears and made the most of my day. Life gave me lemons that morning, but my decision to rent the car was most definitely my lemonade!

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Lake Mead

https://www.nps.gov/lake/index.htm

Hoover Dam

http://www.usbr.gov/lc/hooverdam/
Parking Garage: Open 8:00 a.m. — Close 5:15 p.m. Parking fee: $10.00. Oversized vehicles, recreational vehicles, and vehicles with trailers must use the parking lots on the Arizona side of the dam.
Visitor Center: Open 9:00 a.m. — Close 5:00 p.m. (Tickets must be purchased by 4:15 p.m. for access)
Tours/Tickets: Hours of Operations: First Powerplant Tour departs at 9:25 a.m.
Last Powerplant Tour departs at 3:55 p.m. First Dam Tour departs at 9:30 a.m.
Last Dam Tour departs at 3:30 p.m. Dam Tours (limited to 20 people per tour) may sell-out a couple hours in advance of the last tour. Last Visitor Center ticket is sold at 4:15 p.m. (Tickets sold from 3:45-4:15 p.m. are for Visitor Center admission only.
Getting There: The dam is located 30 miles southeast of Las Vegas. Take US Highway 93 to Nevada State Route 172. The dam is on the Nevada-Arizona border.
Mike O’Callaghan–Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge
http://www.desertusa.com/desert-activity/hoover-dam-bridge.html

Colorful Copenhagen

Flipping through a travel magazine and encountering photos of Copenhagen, chances are you will see a picture or two of Nyhavn.

Upon my first trip to the capital city of Denmark, this is what I wanted most to see. The problem with my first trip, however, was that it was about 28 degrees and snowing. Yes, I still made it to Nyhavn, but seeing it at dusk through a white sheet of snow didn’t quite match up to to my expectations.

Fast forward to my next trip…summertime in Copenhagen…blue skies, warm temperatures! As I made my way up to the canal and purchased a ticket for a boat tour, I stood mesmerized, in awe of the colorful buildings and the multitude of boats parked there. This was the Nyhavn that I wanted to see and about a hundred pictures were probably snapped on my camera before my tour boat even left the area.

Now, each time that I return to Copenhagen, I always make time to visit the area, first stopping by a small corner store and picking up a couple of beers. I sit along the dock and enjoy my drinks while watching the tour boats come and go and the tourists milling about. It’s still quite magical to me.

Nyhavn, meaning New Harbor, was created in 1671 when King Christian V began the excavation of the new harbor, within the city, with the work being completed by Swedish prisoners of war from the Dano-Swedish War. A gateway to the sea, it became a home for sailors, prostitutes and beer as well as the home for many artists. Nyhavn’s most notable resident was the fairly-tale writer, Hans Christian Anderson, who lived in number 67 for eighteen years.

The brightly colored, 17th and 18th century townhouses, bars, cafes and restaurants (the oldest dates, number 6, dates back to 1687) line the canal and are a hub of activity throughout most of each day. In 1980, the area became a pedestrianized zone.

The canal is also home to many historical wooden ships. In 1977, Nyhavn was introduced as a veteran ship and museum harbor by Copenhagen’s Lord Mayor Egon Weidekamp. Between the Nyhavn Bridge and Kongens Nytorv, there are dozens of old ships which make up the Nyhavn Veteran Ship and Museum Harbour. The Danish National Museum owns many museum ships which reside in the south side of the canal. The northern side of the canal, run by the Nyhavn Society, houses privately owned and still usable wooden ships.

As you wander this amazing area, take the time to examine the awe-inspiring architecture of the area and maybe a tour of one of the museum boats, such as the Light-vessel Gedser Rev. (The light-vessels are my favorites…a boat and a lighthouse in one!)

Climb up on and take pictures with the great Memorial Anchor, (once used on the Frigate Fyn) which commemorates more than 1700 Danish officers and sailors in the service for the Navy, merchant fleet or Allied Forces, who sacrificed their lives during World War II. If you happen to be there on May 5, Denmark’s Liberation Day, an official ceremony is held to honor and commemorate the fallen at the Memorial Anchor.

And…if you want to see the great city of Copenhagen, jump on one of the tour boats that depart from Nyhavn. They start at this magnificent place, take you throughout the many canals and waterways, giving you an overview of the city, and return you to the same spot….then…you can grab a drink or dinner and enjoy the view!

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Nyhavn

http://www.nyhavn.com/#!home/cd30
Nyhavn 45 DK-1051 Copenhagen, Denmark
Admission: free
Getting There: Copenhagen Harbour Bus, Routes 901, 902, 903 and 904 stop at the bus stop next to the Royal Playhouse. Kongens Nytorv metro station is located at the end of Nyhavn and is served by lines M1 and M2.

The Star of Copenhagen

Many times I have walked near the bastioned ramparts of Kastellet while returning from the waterfront, never realizing quite what it was or even that the public was allowed on the grounds.

One of the best preserved star fortresses in Northern Europe, Kastellet’s construction began in 1626 as a part of the defense of the City of Copenhagen. After the Swedish siege on Copenhagen from 1658 to 1660, the fort was rebuilt, extended and named Citadellet Frederikshavn (The Citadel Frederik’s Harbor). Today, it is widely known as Kastellet (the Citadel) and it was part of the defense of Copenhagen against England in the Battle of Copenhagen in 1807. In 1940, the Citadel was captured by German troops.

Entry is by two gates…the King’s Gate on the south side, facing the city, and the Norway Gate, on the north side of the monument. They are both built in the Dutch Baroque style and are edged by guardhouses. There are many buildings located throughout the grounds, including a church, the Commander’s house, a prison, a storehouse, a powder house, barracks and a windmill. Many military activities are conducted here by the Danish Defense Ministry, however, the area serves mainly as a park and historic site.

The bastions, at each of the corners, are named The King’s Bastion, the Queen’s Bastion, The Count’s Bastion, The Princess’s Bastion and the Prince’s Bastion. An inner and outer moat surrounds the citadel.

Besides strolling the premises and admiring the views, there are a few things to see and do at Kastellet. There are two small museums on the premises; The Garrison’s Historical Collections is in one of the guard’s buildings inside the North Gate and the Livjæger Museum. Also, a changing of the guard ceremony is conducted every day at noon at the Central Guard House. Military concerts are conducted on the drill grounds on summer afternoons at 1400. On October 28, the Citadel’s birthday, an annual concert is held and on Store Bededag, a Danish holiday, it is tradition to promenade on the ramparts.

While taking in the sites near the waterfront, be sure to incorporate Kastellet into your day. Starting with a visit to St. Albans church in Churchill Park, you can then enter the Kastellet at the King’s Gate and explore the entire area. Exit at the Norway Gate, proceeding to the waterfront area and the Little Mermaid. Walk along the Langelinie (pier) and make your way back to St. Albans, encountering the Gefion fountain along the way. There is a lot to see and do, so make sure to bring your camera and your walking shoes!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Kastellet

http://www.kastellet.info/
Hours: 0600-2200
Admission: free
Livjæger Museum, admission, free, open every day from May 1 to October 1, 1100-1500.
The Garrison’s Historical Collections, admission, free.

The Marble Church

Above most rooftops of Copenhagen, in the elegant area of Frederiksstaden, you can see the copper green dome of the Marble Church. Impressively beautiful and near the Amalienborg Castle and The Opera, the Marble Church (or the Frederik’s Church, its official name) is one most tourists aspire to visit on a trip to the Danish city.

Having walked past this Lutheran church a few times before, I had never set foot inside its doorways. Currently, lots of construction behind and adjacent to the church takes away from its impressive facade, however, when stepping inside, you are struck by the awe-inspiring massive dome…the largest dome in Scandinavia…with a span of almost 102 feet and decorated with a painting of the twelve apostles. Though not as large, this dome was supposedly inspired by the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

In 1749, King Frederik V decided to build a church to honor God, the absolute monarchy and the royal house of Oldenborg celebrating the tercentenary of ruling the Country. The church and town were named after him and together with his leading court architect, Nicolai Eigtved, they embarked on the monumental project.

The foundation stone was laid October 30, 1749 and a mighty domed church was planned. Finances were limited but the King refused to cut back on materials, thus slowing progress. Large solid blocks of marble from eastern Norway were used to build the walls of the church, furthermore, increasing costs.

After the deaths of Eigtved in 1754 and King Frederik V in 1766, Frederik’s son, King Christian VII decided to suspend the project. No progress was made for 100 years with the walls, at barely a height of 60 feet. Although the site was deemed a ruin, it was a popular motif for many artists. Eventually, banker and financier C.F. Tietgen took over the project in 1874. The rebuilding started later that year under architect Ferdinand Meldahl and was finally completed, after 20 additional years of construction, on August 19, 1894.

One of the highlights of most Copenhagen tours, be sure to expect busloads of tourists to be on site. If you can dodge the hoards, however, be sure to take in the 14 bronze statues of prominent Danish Church Fathers that surround the church (with present construction, hard to see all). On the balustrade around the dome are sculptures in zinc of 18 historical figures from the bible…prophets and apostles, in addition to Martin Luther, the founder of Reformation. On the interior, note the motifs from the 42nd Psalm that flank the altar and observe the the church’s two organs. The oldest, referred to as the Swan Organ, is no longer in use, however, the newer Marcussen organ is currently being used during services (and was being tested while I was visiting). In the front chapel, take in the woodcarvings depicting the Deposition.

A most beautiful and historic church, that is well worth a visit while in Copenhagen, will take, at most, about a half hour to visit (unless taking the Dome Tour). It can be combined with a visit to Amalienborg Palace and countless other attractions in the area.

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The Marble Church

http://www.marmorkirken.dk/
Address: Frederiksgade 4, 1265 København K
Admission: free
Hours: Monday-Thursday and Saturday 1000-1700. Friday and Saturday, 1200-1700.
Dome Tours, Saturday and Sunday 1300 and 1500 and weekdays at 1300 from June 15-August 31. Admission for dome tours, Adults, 35 DKK, Children (under 18), 20 DKK.
Getting There: Bus, 1A, 15, 20E. Distance from Town Hall Square, 5 km, about 20-30 min walk.

Rundetaarn

There are quite a few ways to check out the city of Copenhagen from a higher altitude.

Airplane?

Let’s go lower.

Hot air balloon?

Probably, but it might prove to be quite expensive.

Towers?

Yes! There are some beautiful towers right within the city that make viewing easy and inexpensive…the Marble Church Tower, Christiansborg Tower, the Spiral Tower of the Church of Our Saviour, to name a few.

Another tower, Rundetaarn, one of the many architectural projects of Christian IV was built as an astronomical observatory during the 17th century. Today, the Round Tower serves as an observation tower for expansive views over the city, a public astronomical observatory and a historical monument.

The cylindrical tower, built from alternating yellow and red slender bricks, is most known for its equestrian staircase, a winding corridor which wraps itself seven and a half times around the hollow core, leading to the top. The lack of stairs helped in the transport of fragile and heavy astronomical equipment to the top of the tower. When the size of instruments proved to be much too large, as they improved over time, and the Ostervold Observatory was built, the Round Tower became outdated in the early 19th century. The unusual internal structure, however, inspired something extremely unique…racing.

The first bicycle race held in the tower took place around 1888. In 1911, a bicycle race down the tower was arranged by the local newspaper. Other races followed, culminating in a world record in 1988 set by Thomas Olsen during a unicycle race. Currently, every spring, a unicycle race is still held in the Rundetaarn.

Other forms of transportation have also ascended this cylindrical tower. Peter the Great, Czar of Russia, rode to the top of the tower on horseback in 1726 with his wife following in a carriage and in 1902, the first motorized car, a Beaufort, navigated the winding corridor to the summit.

Although the tower is attached to the Trinitatis Church, it has never served as a church tower, and the bells of Trinity Church hang in the Bell Loft which can be seen about halfway through your climb to the the top of the tower. After your visit to the tower, you can walk through the Trinity Church, which was built in 1656, as a church for professors and students of the University.

When you reach the observation deck, located about 114 feet above ground level, the old city of Copenhagen with its many spires and rooftops spreads out 360 degrees before you. On a clear day, Sweden and the Oresund Bridge, which links the two countries, can be seen in the distance.

While traversing the observation deck, take note of the wrought-iron lattice made in 1643 by Kasper Fincke who was a court artist in metalwork. Christian IV’s monogram and the letters RFP are integrated into the latticework, representing the King’s motto, Regna Firmat Pietas (Piety strengthens the Realms).

The observatory is a small domed building, built on the roof of the tower, reaching a height of 21 feet and a diameter of 18 feet. Built in 1929, it is still in use by amateur astronomers and the general public and is accessed by a narrow winding stone staircase from the observation deck.

Due to varied opening times throughout the year, I was unable to visit the observatory, although a few tour groups were witnessed being led through the space.

As I made my way down to the street level…around and around…I pondered the history of this seasoned tower. Certainly, not one of the most impressive views in Copenhagen, it is worth visiting for its uniqueness and if you are able to visit the observatory. In a city where most things are quite expensive, in a bid to occupy an hour or so, it is worth the small admission fee.

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Rundetaarn (The Round Tower)

http://www.rundetaarn.dk/en/
Address: Kobmagergade 52A, 1150 KBH K, Denmark
May 21-September 20, daily, 1000-2000, September 21-Mid October, daily 1000-1800, Mid October-Mid March, Mon, Thurs, Fri, Sat and Sun, 1000-1800, Tues and Wed, 1000-2100, Mid March-May 20, daily 1000-1800. Closed December 24 and 25 and January 1
Observatory: Currently, the observatory is studying the sun. Open dates, Sundays from June 26 through August 14, 1300-1600.
Admission: Adults, 25 DKK ( approx. $3.75), Children (ages 3-15), 5 DKK (approx. $.75), Annual season ticket 150 DKK (approx. $22.50).

Fool Your Eye

It has been said that the Italians love a good optical illusion.

If you do too, when in Rome, here is the place for you. The church of St. Ignatius of Loyola, located near the Pantheon, not only boasts breathtaking frescoes and amazing architecture, but a fake dome!

Founded in 1551 by St. Ignatius, as a church of the Roman College and inspired by the Jesuit mother church, the Church of the Gesù in Rome. Completed in 1650, it was designed with a Latin cross plan and numerous side chapels, the focus being on the high altar at the end of the eastern apse. Decorated with colored marble, animated stucco figural relief, richly ornamented altars, extensive gilding and Corinthian pilasters ringing the entire interior, it contrasts with its unassuming facade overlooking the Piazza di S. Ignazio.

What stands this church, designed by Jesuit mathematician Orazio Grassi, apart from so many others in Rome, is it that when money was not available for a dome, a painter was hired to create the effect of one.

When entering the church, the overall effect is one of vastness and richly appointed ornamentation. My advice to you is to save the best part for last. Take your time to walk along each side of the church and inspect each of the chapels and the main altar. Each of the chapels are different and worthy of individual inspection containing amazing altarpieces and artwork.

The chapel in the right transept, dedicated to St. Alloysius Gonzaga, houses the remains of Cardinal St. Robert Bellarmine and a ceiling painted by Andrea Pozzo who also created the fresco ceiling in the chapel in the left transept. Pay close attention to his work here as you will see it again. The chapel in the left transept also houses the relics of Saint John Berchmans. The chapel just to the right of the church’s presbytery (at the south-east corner) houses the funerary monuments of Pope Gregory XV and his nephew, Cardinal Ludovisi, the church’s founder.

Move into the center of the church. The main highlights of the church are the magnificent frescoes created by Andrea Pozzo. The ceiling painting, which covered the whole length of the nave, depicts the entry of Ignatius into paradise.

Next, stand on the marble disc at the center of the church, and gaze upward, you will see a dome. But is it?

Figures that are in reality painted horizontally seem to rise up towards the heavens. The dome also seems to have a real vaulting, however, with closer inspection, you will see that it is really flat…a trompe-l’oeil. A true masterpiece by Andrea Pozzo.

Leaving the church, take a few minutes to admire the Piazza Sant’Ignazio spread out before the church. The square with its richly hued baroque/rococo styled buildings, designed by Raguzzini, house an office of the Carabinieri, the Italian paramilitary police.

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St. Ignazio Church

http://santignazio.gesuiti.it/en/
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0730-1900, Sundays and holidays, 0900-1900. Free guided tours, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, 1500-1800.
Admission: free
Getting There: Located near the Pantheon