architecture – Page 28 – Snapping The Globe

Hanoi, Having a Look…

Three forty-five a.m. My eyes pop wide open.

Having been to Asia before, it was no surprise to wake up this early. It had happened quite frequently when I was in Thailand a couple of years ago. The trick was to make use of my time…update Facebook, edit pictures, write blog posts, call home.

The Ha Long Bay cruise, was still weighing heavily on my mind. Still not sure what to do, I called a friend who had done Ha Long Bay as a day trip and asked her for her opinion. She assured me that since there was so much that I wanted to do and see in Hanoi, I would definitely benefit from doing a day trip and that I would not miss out on anything. Yes, it would be a day trip (albeit a long, tiring one) and it would be a much cheaper option, helping to resolve that deficit I was now in thanks to my expensive visa!

Feeling good about my decision, I finally dressed for the day and headed downstairs for breakfast. After some fruit, sticky rice and an omelet, I enlisted the front desk’s help to finalize my booking for my Ha Long Bay trip the next day. Finally, it was all set.

Glad to have the Ha Long Bay dilemma resolved, I gathered my belongings, marched out of the hotel into the congested streets and made my way toward the western part of the city. My plan was to venture northwest of the Old Quarter and begin my exploration at the Ho Tay or West Lake.

Making my way westward along a street behind my hotel, I still marveled at the hoards of motorbikes passing by and admired the locals making deals on their daily produce. Soon, I came to a few stalls that contained piles of some sort of grilled animal. Behind two of these, I noticed women wielding cleavers and cutting the animals into pieces. After taking a closer look, I stopped in my tracks. Were these dogs? Already attracting negative attention as a foreigner with a camera swinging freely around her neck, I didn’t dare lift it to take a picture. I stopped in my tracks, pretended to search for something in my bag, while trying to get a better look. A few negative glances deterred my curiosity, so I walked across the street to another stall with a lady who did not appear so menacing. As sweetly as I could, I inquired as to what kind of animal it was. Not as welcoming as I thought, she proceeded to yell at me to go away, further making me think that these were indeed dogs.

I am sure that I am not the first westerner to walk down this street early in the morning and witness this ritual and I am sure that there have been many animal rights activists willing to give the Vietnamese people a piece of their mind. I decided to keep walking or possibly find myself in a situation that I was not willing to welcome, however, I did find out later that dog is still considered a delicacy in Vietnam. Typically, Vietnamese eat dog meat at the end of the lunar month to get rid of bad luck. Dog is also the go-to dish for drinking parties, family reunions and special occasions. It is said to increase a man’s virility and help provide medicinal cures. Although I vowed at that moment to avoid beef, lest I be served something I was not comfortable with, I was also told that because it is more costly than beef, chances of that happening were extremely rare. Still, I decided that I would be consuming chicken, pork and seafood during my stay.

After my early morning shock and struggling to put it out of my mind, I continued my walk along the streets covered with beautiful old trees and lush greenery. I marveled at the monuments, buildings and churches that I passed and soon, I arrived at my first destination, the Quán Thánh Temple.

The Quán Thánh Temple, formerly known as the Trấn Vũ Temple, is a Taoist temple dating back to the 11th century. One of the four Sacred Temples of the capital, it is a leading tourist attraction in the city. Known for its principle gate and giant banyan tree shading the large yard, it is one of the oldest temples in Hanoi. The shrine contains a famous bronze statue of Trấn Vũ, Deity of the North in Taoism, and in the courtyard, a brick oven which people use to burn fake money believing it will be sent to their ancestors. Finding it very peaceful, I enjoyed my walk around its gardens.

Leaving Quán Thánh, I headed north along Thanh Nién Road which crosses between Ho Tay (West Lake) and Truc Bach Lake. Many may know Truc Bach Lake as the location in which Senator and former presidential candidate, John McCain, landed during the Vietnam War after being shot down.

Trấn Quốc Pagoda lies just off of Thanh Nién Road on a small island near the southeastern shore of Ho Tay and is the oldest Buddhist temple in Hanoi, constructed in the sixth century. A favorite sightseeing location of kings and lords of Vietnam, it lured these nobles because of its tranquility, serenity and stunning scenery.

Walking along the palm tree lined bridge connecting the pagoda’s island to the mainland, the view of the red pagoda against the green water of Ho Tay is spectacular. The front yellow gates are impressive with its massive wooden doors. Immediately to the left of the entrance, is one of the main parts of the Trấn Quốc Temple as it holds important monk’s ashes of whom have resided at the Trấn Quốc Pagoda for centuries. The monumental stupa, red in color, which symbolizes luck and prosperity and visible from afar, was erected in 1998 and is comprised of 11 floors each displaying a vaulted window holding a statue of Amitabha made from gemstone. The top of the stupa offers a nine-story lotus, also from gemstone.

The Trấn Quốc is also known for its priceless antiques, dating back hundreds of years. The worshiping statues in the front house are meticulously engraved and polished by skillful craftsmen. The most outstanding of the bunch is “Thích ca thập niết bàn”, which has been assessed as the most beautiful statue of Vietnam.

If you can visit this remarkable pagoda at the end of the day, it is renowned for its sunset views.

After my visit to the Trấn Quốc Pagoda was complete, I made my way back from the way I had come, passing the Quán Thánh Temple and headed toward the Presidential Palace.

The Presidential Palace, built between 1900-1906 for the French Governor-General of Indochina by August Henri Vildieu, incorporates Italian Renaissance design and lush landscaping throughout the premises. Although you cannot enter the actual palace, currently used for government meetings, you can see it from a relatively close distance. There are many other items of interest on the grounds including a traditional Vietnamese house on stilts, the house where President Ho Chi Minh lived and worked from 1954 to 1958, a garage of Ho Chi Minh’s cars and a grand carp pond.

Leaving the Presidential Palace, I set out to visit the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum located nearby in Ba Dinh Square. Although the attraction is closed from September through November each year for renovation and is the time when Ho Chi Minh’s body is sent to Russia for re-embalming, you can get a great view of the building from the area where Ho Chi Minh, Chairman of the Communist Party of Vietnam (1951-1969) read the Declaration of Independence on September 2, 1945, establishing the Democratic Republic of Vietnam.

Near Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum and Ho Chi Minh’s Museum lies the One Pillar Pagoda or Chùa Một Cột. This pagoda dates back to 1049 when Emperor Ly Thai Tong had it constructed as a way to express his gratitude to the young peasant girl he married, bearing him a son and heir. The pagoda was built to resemble a lotus blossom and is built of wood on a single stone pillar. The pagoda was destroyed by the French in 1954, but was rebuilt by the new government.

Although my guide book stated that an entrance fee was required, I wandered freely through the pagoda and the adjacent area. This location has many vendors for decently priced souvenirs, snacks and drinks and is a great place to take a break for a short time before continuing on.

My next stop in this fascinating city was the Temple of Literature. This temple is one of many in the city dedicated to Confucius but is also the site of Vietnam’s first university, established in 1706. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect here, but was not disappointed.

Entering through the imposing tiered gateway I was greeted with formal gardens before reaching the Khue Van pavilion and a beautiful fish pond known as the Well of Heavenly Clarity. The area encompassed by the temple is quite large and their are many displays of traditional Vietnamese architecture as well as a low-slung pagoda and numerous statues of Confucius and his disciples. The temple honors Vietnam’s finest scholars and those of literary accomplishment.

As I departed from the Temple of Literature, many school girls were arriving wearing Ao Dai (traditional Vietnamese dress) hoping to take pictures in front of and around the Temple of Literature and seemingly celebrating a success (possibly graduation). It was a sight to behold with the many colors and with their beautiful figures.

Taking a few minutes to grab some lunch at a nearby cafe, I discovered that France is not the only place to get great bread. Though France departed Vietnam in 1954, after one hundred years of colonial rule, they left behind the expertise of unbelievable baking! If you’ve ever had a good ham and cheese baguette in Paris, you’re sure to find one equally appetizing or better in Vietnam!

With aching feet and the clock fast approaching the five o’clock hour, I realized that my final stop in Hanoi, that day, was going to be the Thang Long Royal Citadel.

As I entered the area near the Citadel, I found that an exhibition was taking place in conjunction with the 62nd anniversary of Hanoi Liberation Day. Walking through the grounds, there were many exhibits and colorful displays. The tunnels on the Đoan Môn gate were blocked due the exhibition, but I was able to enter the complex through an adjacent gate. After paying my admission, I was able to climb to the top of the gate and walk throughout the structure. From the top, I had amazing views of the festivities below. This gate is the remaining relic of the ancient Forbidden City.

Walking throughout the UNESCO Heritage site (since 2010), it is easy to see why this complex is a source of great pride to the people of Hanoi and the Vietnamese people. The grounds are lush, green and extensive, although many of the original buildings were destroyed by the French.

15th century stone dragons can be found decorating the steps to what was once Kinh Thien Palace. You can also visit Hau Lau (Black Tower) and Cua Bac (Northern Gate) at the back of the complex as well as the Princess Tower and the Military Operation Bunker.

From the front of the grounds, you see the Flag Tower of Hanoi which is frequently used as a symbol of the city. Built in 1812, during the Nguyen Dynasty, the tower, was spared from destruction during the French colonial rule as it was used as a military post. I inquired as to visiting the tower but was told that it was not open to the public. After my visit, however, I discovered that although most people consider it a part of the Citadel, it is actually part of the Military History Museum. Perhaps I was told that it was not open that day or perhaps I was mistakenly told that it was not open to the public…the language barrier may have contributed to not being able to visit this landmark.

Realizing that the day was drawing to a close, I decided that it was time to head back to my little hotel room in the Old Quarter for a shower and dinner. Exhausted, I was dreading the long walk. After being approached by a motorcyclist and offered a ride to my hotel, I decided to take him up on his bid. Shortly after taking my seat behind him, however, I wondered what I had gotten myself into! Turning his motorbike around and heading into traffic until he was able to get to the street that he wanted, I wondered if he actually knew how to navigate the streets. We continued on…many motorbikes immediately to our left and right and the occasional bus, inches from my shoulder. He made quick work of driving back to the Old Quarter and was soon depositing me at the door of the hotel.

After my harrowing journey, it was time to relax, have a calming drink, eat a delicious dinner and ready myself for my long day to Ha Long Bay the next morning! Reflecting on my day’s adventures, I was amazed that I had braved the streets of Hanoi, even on the back of a motorbike, and seen so many beautiful and inspiring things, however, I realized that I had seen only half of what the city had to offer. There was so much more still to explore. Glad that I had decided on the one day cruise to Ha Long Bay, I was now free to explore the rest of Hanoi’s treasures on my return.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Quán Thánh Temple

Address: Ngã 3 giao cắt và, Thanh Niên, Quán Thánh, Ba Đình, Hanoi, Vietnam
Admission, 10,000 Dong (about 50 cents U.S.)
Opening Hours: 0500-1900

Trấn Quốc Pagoda

Thanh Niên, Trúc Bạch, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Admission, free
Opening Hours: dawn til dusk

Presidential Palace

http://vpctn.gov.vn/Pages/trangchu.aspx
Address: No 1 Hoang Hoa Tham street (Red Gate), Ba Dinh District, Hanoi 10000, Vietnam
Admission: 40,000 Dong (about U.S. $1.80)
Opening Hours: 0700-1700

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

https://www.vietnamonline.com/attraction/ho-chi-minh-mausoleum.html
Address: Ba Dinh Square, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Admission: free
Opening Hours: Summer Hours, 0730-1030, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 0730-1100, Saturday and Sunday. Winter Hours, 0800-1100, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 0800-1130, Saturday and Sunday. Closed September 4 through November 4.
Modest Dress required

One Pillar Pagoda (Chùa Một Cột)

http://www.vietnamtourism.com/index.php/tourism/items/241
Address: Chùa Một Cột, Đội Cấn, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Admission: 25,000 Vietnamese Dong (about $1.12)
Opening Hours: 0600-1800, daily

Temple of Literature

http://vanmieu.gov.vn/
Address: Quoc Tu Giam Street, Hanoi, Vietnam, VN
Admission: 10,000 Vietnamese Dong (about U.S. 45 cents)
Opening Hours: 0830-1130 and 1330-1630

Thang Long Royal Citadel

http://www.hoangthanhthanglong.vn/
Address: Quán Thánh, Ba Đình, Hanoi, Vietnam
Admission: 30,000 Vietnamese Dong (about U.S. $1.34)
Opening Hours: 0830-1130 and 1400-1700

Flag Tower of Hanoi

https://www.vietnamonline.com/attraction/hanoi-flag-tower.html
Address: Lê Hồng Phong, Điện Biên, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Admission: 10,000 Vietnamese Dong (about U.S. 45 cents) Admission to Military Museum, 30,000 (about U.S. $1.34)
Opening Hours: 0800-1130 and 1400-1600 Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, Saturday and Sunday.

Unfinished Business

The late Antoni Gaudi has some unfinished business in Barcelona. An unfinished church…Sagrada Familia. Ever hear of it?

About three or four years ago, in order to accommodate my family’s busy schedule, I decided to work a trip that flew over the Mother’s Day weekend. Only the second time that I had ever been away from my children on the holiday, I decided that I was going to make the most of my day and find something extra-special to occupy my time in Barcelona.

Deciding to visit the Sagrada Familia, the preeminent masterpiece of architect Antoni Gaudi, in the Catalan city, I planned to spend my afternoon gazing upon the unfinished beauty of this magnificent church. Having studied architecture, I was touched by its complexity, references to nature and combination of Gothic and Art Nouveau styles. The fact that it had recently passed the midpoint of its completion enamored me further. Knowing that I would have to come again and again before its expected completion date of 2026 was okay…I could follow its progression.

Spending another day in Barcelona recently, I decided that it was time to re-visit Sagrada Familia to see how much it had evolved over the last few years. During that last visit, I had walked up to the church, waited in line, purchased my ticket and walked right in. Things were a bit different this time. Once I arrived at the hotel, I logged into the Sagrada Familia website and purchased a ticket. Since all tickets are for timed access, I was lucky to be able to purchase a ticket for a 5:30 pm entry. This was perfect. I could sleep a bit late, make my way in that direction and still be done by dinner.

It was a beautiful, sunny day as I walked in the direction of the one of the most famous Roman Catholic churches in the world, one, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. Although construction began in 1882 and is still continuing, the church was consecrated and proclaimed a minor basilica by Pope Benedict XVI in 2010.

Finding large numbers of tourists milling around the perimeter of the church, I made my way to the entrance and presented my ticket at the northeast side of the institution. Walking up the stairway, I had to take care to carefully make each step as I could not keep from gazing upward at the intricate carvings making up the Nativity facade which is flanked by four spire-like bell towers.

Once in the interior of the church, my gaze was immediately drawn upward. The vaulting of the ceiling in the apse is spectacular and something I have never seen in any other church as well as the forest of exclusive columns grown from the imagination of its architect. These columns were under construction during my last visit, but now stand tall, proud and almost treelike.

The choir loft is especially colorful late in the afternoon when the sun is low and the colors from the legions of stained glass windows are cast upon the walls. I suspect that during each part of the day, the church maintains a unique look relative to the illumination of the sun and its position.

Work is currently being done in the chancel and the area is cordoned off restricting a continual view of the space. The Crucifixion of Christ, the Expressionist bronze sculpture by Carlos Mani, which hangs above the high altar, however, is still visible above the construction walls.

Walking around the the rear of the altar, you will find the entry to the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and Penitence, a space reserved for worship and contemplation and the location of Gaudi’s tomb. During my visit, I was unable to navigate this space as a private baptismal ceremony was being conducted. Here, you will also find the pipes of the grand organ than fills the space with its melody.

Should you wish to attend a service in the basilica, do not expect regularly scheduled masses as you would in other basilicas. Throughout the year, occasional masses are held which are open to the general public, though an invitation must be held to attend. Information when available can be obtained from the website.

The towers’ entry points are from lifts in the interior of the church. Since a separate ticket is required, I was unable to visit as no tickets were available when I purchased my entry earlier in the day. Six new towers will be added before the anticipated completion in 2026, with the tallest being 564 feet, making it the tallest religious structure in Europe. When finished, there will be a total of 18 towers, 12 being on three facades, the Nativity facade, the Passion facade and the Glory facade. An additional four towers will represent the four evangelists and will surround the largest middle tower, dedicated to Jesus Christ. The final tower dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary will be over the apse.
After exiting the church on the opposite side, turn around and set your eyes on the Facade of the Suffering Way. Not as detailed as the Nativity facade, this facade is expressionistic and modern. Gaudi once said that if he had started construction with this facade, people would have distanced themselves from his work.

After walking to the right, you can visit Gaudi’s workshop and the museum.

As with the interior of the basilica, light affects how you view the structure. Before you enter the Sagrada Familia, take time to walk around the entire structure and examine all four sides (though two are still under construction). After your exit, walk around again, I promise, things will look different as the sun changes direction and the type of light is casts. Truly a thing of beauty!

With about sixty-five percent of the Sagrada Familia finished, the completion date is planned to coincide with the hundred year anniversary of Gaudi’s death. The present chief architect is Jordi Fauli, who leads a team of forty construction workers. He is the ninth generation of architects to lead the construction of the basilica and is expected to be the final architect bringing alive the dreams and imagination of Antoini Gaudi.

Glad that I had taken the time to revisit this architectural phenomenon, my plans are to come back every three of four years until its completion. Next time, hopefully the towers will be on my agenda and I will experience all of the new renovations and additions that are in store. If you happen to find yourself in Barcelona, make sure to plan accordingly and see this amazing work of art!

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Sagrada Familia

http://www.sagradafamilia.org/en/
Carrer de Mallorca, 401, 08013 Barcelona, Spain
Hours: November to February, 0900-1800, March, 0900-1900, April to September, 0900-2000, October, 0900-1900, December 25, 26, January 1 and 6, 0900-1400.
Admission: Tickets may be purchased online (recommended) or at the ticket counter if available. Sale of tickets finished 15 minutes before closing time.
Option 1: Entry ticket, audioguide and towers, 29€
Option 2: Entry ticket, audioguide and Gaudi House Museum (Park Guell) 24€
Option 3: Entry ticket and guided tour, 24€
Option 4: Entry ticket and audioguide, 22€
Option 5: Entry ticket, 15€
Getting There: Metro: Lines 2 and 5. Sagrada Familia Station

Picturesque Phillipsburg

St. Maarten is an island divided between two nations…the French and the Dutch.

The two neighboring countries live in harmony and travel across the border between the two sides is not regulated. In fact, while driving, if you did not encounter the “welcome” signs as you cross the border, you would not realize the change except for the few features that set them apart.

The island was split into two parts after the Treaty of Concordia in 1648. The larger, northern part was granted to France (Saint Martin) and the southern part (St. Maarten) was given to the Netherlands.

Many visitors to St. Maarten arrive by cruise ship which docks at the port in Philipsburg, the island’s capital, founded in 1763, by John Philips, a Scottish naval captain. Visitors enjoy the Dutch side for its casinos and duty-free bargains, art galleries and historic forts, while many visitors flock to the French side for its shops filled with French fashions and imported Gallic goodies as well as its beautiful beaches.

If you are not arriving by cruise ship, a short drive to visit to Philipsburg during your stay is a must as there are many things to see and do.

If you are an architecture lover, you will appreciate the many buildings that line Front Street. As opposed to the French side and its French Colonial and Creole buildings, the colorful half-timbered Dutch houses are the pride of their inhabitants. As you wander along, these buildings give off an air of friendliness and hospitality with their elaborate carvings and wrought iron balconies.

The Courthouse, built is 1793, as the home of Commander John Philips, has served as a court for successive governors, a fire station, a jail and a post office during its long existence in the town. One of the island’s most prominent landmarks, it is easy to spot on the main street. It is owned by the government of St. Maarten and maintains a spot on the list of major historic monuments.

Another building worth noting is St. Martin of Tours Catholic church. While the interior is quite plain, the exterior is bright and Caribbean-like maintains a location facing the beach. Another more impressive church belongs to the Methodists on Front Street. Sometimes referred to as the Old English or Wesleyan Church, it is a beautiful wooden clapboard structure with light blue accents. Built in 1978, it replaced the original church which was built in 1851. The inside is quite interesting with its blue and red accented galleries and wooden walls and ceilings, giving it a ship-like feel.

If you are in the mood to get out of the heat and learn a few things, a couple of museums exist in Philipsburg. The Yoda Guy Movie Exhibit (see my post, “The Yoda Guy”) run by artist and movie effects specialist, Nick Maley, is a fun place for the family and Star Wars fans. The Sint Maarten Museum is a great place to learn about the island’s rich heritage.

Shopper alert!!! There are many duty free options where you can buy a treasure trove of items. St. Maarten, a free port, has no local sales taxes, VAT or other indirect prices. Diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, settings, bands, watches, electronics, perfumes…they are all here. Make sure you do your homework and be prepared to bargain.

Liquor prices on the island are some of the lowest I have ever seen. Many cruise ships will tell you that you can bring back five bottles of liquor per person, however, US customs allows one liter per person.

There is also a stall-type craft market that runs to Front Street. The vendors are extremely friendly, not pushy and willing to bargain. If you say no…they back off, unlike many other islands that I have visited. We did find that venturing into Philipsburg ensured better bargains and of course, less congestion, on days when cruise ships were not in port.

Another thing that I absolutely loved about Philipsburg was Great Bay and the beautiful beach that acts as a border between the many cafes and bars and the pristine, blue water. Tired of walking along Front Street? Take the boardwalk that runs the entire length of the beach. Some in your party don’t want to shop? Get them a chair and an umbrella. They can refine their tans while you shop til you drop! Great Bay and its beautiful beach is very unique and sets it apart from many other Caribbean islands that I have visited.

Whatever you decide to do in Philipsburg…eat, drink, stroll, shop, photograph or tan…you won’t be disappointed. It may be a cruise port, but one with a distinct character that has much to offer.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Philipsburg

Philipsburg Courthouse, Front Street, Philipsburg, St. Maarten
Philipsburg Craft Market, behind the Courthouse, between Front Street and Back Street
St. Martin of Tours, 51 Front Street, St. Maarten, Voorstraat, Philipsburg, St. Maarten, http://www.catholicchurchsxm.org/
Methodist Church, Front Street, St. Maarten, Philipsburg, Sint Maarten
Yoda Guy Movie Exhibit, 19a Front Street, St. Maarten, http://netdwellers.com/mz/planetp/home.html
Sint Maarten Museum, 7 Front Street, St. Maarten, http://www.museumsintmaarten.org/
Map of Philipsburg, St. Maarten, http://www.caribbean-on-line.com/islands/sm/pbmap.shtml

Cruising Czech-Style

Visiting many sights throughout Prague, you can’t help but cross or walk near the Vltava River. The Vltava is the longest river within the country which runs southeast along the Bohemian Forest and then north across Bohemia, through Český Krumlov, České Budějovice and Prague. It eventually merges with the Elbe river at Melnik and is commonly referred to as the Czech national river.

After spending the day at Karlstejn Castle and our quick trip to the Jerusalem Synagogue, we still had many hours of sunlight left in the day. Quickly stopping at our hotel to freshen up, we then headed north and made our way along the river near the Štefánikův Bridge where the boat companies depart for many different lunch, dinner and sightseeing cruises.

Deciding on Czech Boats, we opted for their one-hour cruise, purchased our tickets and waited for our boat, the Maria.

Soon we were on our way, beers in hand (purchased at the boat’s bar), basking in the sun on the upper deck.

The boat makes its way along the river towards the magnificent Charles Bridge, which it passes under and then turns around for its return voyage. There are many beautiful buildings that line the river and you will be able to get a great view of the Prague Castle.

If you desire more time on the river, there are a multitude of options including lunch, dinner, dessert and jazz cruises. Although the one we selected was not a very long cruise, the one-hour option gives you an great overview of many of the city’s landmarks.

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Czech Boats

http://www.czechboats.cz/
Address: Dvorakovo embankment, pier no. 17 (next to Stefanikuv bridge)
Hours: One hour tours, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 16:00, 17:00
Price: Adults, 220 CZK, Children (3-12 years) 110 CZK

A Synagogue Second To None

Rushing to make the train to Karlstejn, I walked quickly, head bowed, with a quick glance to my watch ever couple of minutes. Passing down Jerusalem Street, nothing in the immediate area caught my preoccupied glances.

Taking the same route, in reverse, later that evening, at a much slower pace, I took in the astounding architecture that lies at every corner. Turning onto Jerusalem Street, with an upward glance…

“Whoa! How did I not see that this morning?”

Hard to miss for its Moorish Revival form and Art Nouveau decoration, the colorful Jubilee Synagogue of Prague looks like something out of Disney and beckons tourists to enter. Really, how could you not, especially if you are a fan of Aladdin!

The Jubilee Synagogue was built in 1906 and designed by Wilhelm Stiastny. It was named in honor of the silver Jubilee of Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria, however, since Czechoslovakia became independent in 1918, it has been called the Jerusalem Synagogue for the street it is located on.

Open as a house of worship for over a century, except for the period of Nazi German occupation when it was used to store confiscated Jewish property, the Synagogue is now open, during part of the year, to tourists and those interested in its incredible architecture.

Not the oldest synagogue in the city, nor located in the Jewish quarter of the city, Josefov, it is noted for being the largest place of worship in the city and certainly the most colorful. Because it is sandwiched between two tenement building, it stands out all the more. After entering through the horseshoe arches on the facade and paying your admittance fee, surprisingly, you are met with a basilica type triple-nave style with two transverse wings in which churches are usually built.

My suggestion is to take a seat and take a look…up, down, forward, backward…everywhere.

The nave and the gallery are illuminated by large stained-glass windows both in the walls and the ceiling. The large central arch frames a rosette window with the Star of David. In addition, wrought chandeliers hang throughout the building. Many diverse paintings adorn the walls and a large organ is located on the western tribune. The high Ark is adorned with a vine leaf motif and the tablets of the Ten Commandments.

After your tour of the bottom level is complete, make your way upstairs to the women’s gallery, where you will find an exhibition on the synagogue, describing its history and construction, how it withstood World War II and the changes to the Jewish community in Prague throughout history.

While not on the regular Prague Jewish Quarter and Synagogue tours, find your way to the Jerusalem Synagogue. Not like anything you have ever seen, I promise you will be amazed that something like this exists in Prague…even Europe. If you are visiting during the busy summer months (when it is open) you will also appreciate that with it not being on the usual touristy paths, it is somewhat quiet. More of a reason to visit and appreciate its beauty, architecture and history!

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Jerusalem Synagogue

http://www.synagogue.cz/cs/jerusalem-synagogue-page/
Address: Jeruzalemska 7, Prague 1
Hours: April 23-October 31, daily, 1300-1700
Admission: 50 CZK (about $2.00)
Getting There: Take a tram no. 3, 9, 14 or 24 to stop Jindrisska. Turn to Jeruzalemska Street just opposite the stop. You can also get there on foot from the Wencelas Square via Jindrisska street.
Regular Prayer Service: Fridays at 2000 (April-September), Saturdays at 0900 (year round)

Karlstejn Castle

Last fall, I made the trip to Karlstejn Castle (see Straight From a Fairy Tale, October 2015), the most visited castle in the Czech Republic. Built by Czech king and Roman Emperor Charles IV, it was established as a place to store the royal treasures, collections of holy relics and the crown jewel.

Located in the town of Karlstejn, it makes for a wonderful day trip and is an impressive piece of architecture.

My son loves history and I knew that he would love taking the train, walking through the quaint village and visiting the castle. Not much has changed since my last visit, except that it was much warmer and there were many more tourists.

The Basic Tour of the Private and Representative Halls of the Holy Roman Emperor is still the only one available for walk up guests. The Sacred/Holy Area including the Chapel of the Holy Cross tour must be booked in advance.

Since I had done the Basic Tour, I was a bit disappointed that I could not take the other, however, this time was a bit different. First, our tour guide spoke much better English than the tour guide on our previous trip, so, I was able to absorb more details of the castle’s history. The other thing that changed from before were the rules concerning photography…pictures are now allowed within the castle, on the tour. A welcome change, I was excited not to have to sneak photos when the tour guide was not looking!

Definitely, a must-do on a trip to the Czech Republic, I recommend leaving early from Prague in order to beat the crowds, especially during the busy summer months. Make sure you walk the grounds within the castle’s walls and visit the Clock and Bell Tower and the Well, all included with your tour admission.

Check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe for more pictures.

Karlstejn Castle

https://www.hradkarlstejn.cz/en
Address: Karlštejn 172, 267 18 Karlštejn
Hours: Jan 9-Feb 29, closed, March, 0930-1600, April- June, 0930-1700, (Tue-Sun), July 1-August 31, 0900-1830 (Mon-Sun), September, 0930-1730 (Tue-Sun), October, 0930-1630 (Tue-Sun), Nov 1- Nov 13, 1000-1500 (Tue-Sun), Nov 14-Dec 23, 1000-1500 (Sat-Sun), Dec 24-25, closed, Dec 26-Jan 8, 1000-1500 (Mon, Tue-Sun)
Admission: Adults 270 CZK, Students (ages 6-26) and Seniors (over 65), 180 CZK, Family Ticket (2 Adults + 4 Children max) 860 CZK
Getting There: Departures are from the main station, Hlavní nádraží or Smíchov stations, usually about every 30 minutes in the direction of Beroun.

Baroque and Beautiful

“I am a sucker for a beautiful church.”

Anyone who has read through my blog, knows this statement to be entirely true. Actually, I love all religious institutions, for their differences in ornamentation, their unique history and for the many beliefs and people that they represent. I love basilicas, chapels, cathedrals, synagogues, temples, mosques and pagodas. When I see a church, I want to see the interior…what makes it different from others that I have visited? Does it have a saint interred there? Relics on display? Beautiful stained glass? Paintings by a famed artist? Maybe this has a lot to do with the fact that I studied architecture in college…or maybe it has to do with my love of photography and all of the beautiful photographic opportunities each building offers…maybe it has to do with the fact that entry into most institutions is free and therefore, easy on the touristy pocketbook!

The Church of St. Nicholas, the most famous Baroque church in Prague, is located in the center of the Lesser Town Square. Not to be confused with the other two St. Nicholas churches in Prague, one of which is located in Old Town Square, it is a most prominent and distinctive landmark with it’s green dome is visible from all over the city. I have walked by it countless times, but usually in transit to another destination with no extra time to stop and visit.

Upon entering the Church of St. Nicholas, we found that this particular institution does charge an admission fee for entry, unlike many others, however, at a cost of 70 CZK (about $3.00 U.S.) it’s not an extremely hefty one. Still, I do not agree with paying to see the inside of a church that has an active congregation. Paying a few dollars to see the inside of a well renowned landmark will not kill me, but hey, free is free!

After stepping away from the ticket counter and preparing my camera, we began making our way into the church. I think I held my breath a little in anticipation of what we would find as we stepped inside. And there it was! Worth the 70 CZK admission? You bet!

The construction of the Church of St. Nicholas began in 1703, lasted approximately one hundred years and employed three generations of great Baroque architects…father, son and son-in-law…Kryštof Dientzenhofer, Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer and Anselmo Lurago. It was used by the Russian orthodox congregation from 1870-1914, used as a warehouse and housed a garrison at one time.

When entering, your eyes venture upward toward the ceiling and the 70 meter high dome which is decorated with a magnificent fresco of the Celebration of the Holy Trinity by Franz Palko. Other frescos by Jan Lukas Kracker are also worth closer inspection. After heading upstairs, you have a closer view of the grand ceiling fresco and the nave from the viewing gallery that runs along the left side of the church.

The interior is richly decorated with sculptures by František Ignác Platzer, many paintings and the side chapels abundantly adorned in gold.

The main organ, with a beautiful fresco of St. Cecilia, patron saint of music, above it, was built from 1745-1747. It has over 4,000 pipes up to six meters in length and was most famously played by Mozart during his stay in Prague in 1787.

The belfry was the last part of St. Nicholas to be built and was constructed by Anselmo Lurago from 1751-1756, though designed by his father in law. As high as the church’s adjacent dome, it does not actually belong to the church but rather the Lesser Town. Interestingly, the tower was used during the 1960’s by the state police to spy on the western countries embassies nearby. This I learned, was something interesting to see, despite the additional climb, but it wasn’t until after our visit that we learned that it was included in our admission. (Nor did we ever see the entrance) Reading up on the church’s history after our trip, I discovered that visitors are allowed to ascend the tower’s 215 steps, during the day, to experience the splendid views over Malá Strana and across the Vltava River to the Old Town.

The Church of St. Nicholas is not to be missed in Prague, the Czech Republic or even Europe. One to rival anything that I have visited previously, it is worth the price of admission..maybe even a bit more. Allow plenty of time to explore the church in it’s entirety…just don’t miss the tower! I’ve already put aside my 70 CZK so that I can stop in and check it out on my next visit!

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

St. Nicholas Church

http://www.stnicholas.cz/
Address: St. Nicholas Church Lesser Town Square, Lesser Town Square, Lesser Town, Prague 1, Czech Republic
Hours: March-October, 0900-1700, daily, November-February, 0900-1600, daily
Admission: Adults, 70 CZK, Students (10-26 years), 50 CZK, Children (under 10), free
How To Get There: Tram stop, Malostranske namesti (trams 12, 20, 22)

The Stone Bridge

Many cities, throughout the world, have have major architectural structures that they are associated with.

Rome? The Coliseum.

Paris? The Eiffel Tower.

Rio De Janeiro? The Christ Statue.

Prague? The Charles Bridge.

The iconic bridge that crosses the Vltava River, linking the Lesser Quarter and the Old Town, is known worldwide and considered to be one of the most astonishing civil gothic-style structures ever built. It is so well known that while on your whirlwind tour of Europe and buying the Coliseum charm for your Pandora bracelet, you can pick up a Charles Bridge charm as well.

At some point during a trip to Prague, most tourists will seek out the bridge as a means to travel across the river, but most will seek it out for it’s beautiful views of the river and the picturesque buildings that line its banks and for the beauty of the ancient bridge itself. It is an absolute must-see on anyone’s visit to this alluring city.

Built to replace Judith’s bridge which was destroyed by the Great Flood of 1342, construction began in 1357 under the Czech king and Holy Roman Emperor Charles VI. Charles IV laid the first stone of the bridge and construction continued for many years under the supervision of Petr Parléř, who was also working on St. Vitus Cathedral. The bridge, however, was not to be completed during Charles’ lifetime, but was at a near enough completion point to accommodate the king’s funeral procession in its crossing of the Vltava River. Such a solid construction, it has survived many floods and other calamities…legend has it that eggs were mixed into the mortar used in its construction. Maybe there is some truth to this matter, as it still stands strong and proud to this day.

Originally called the Stone Bridge or the Prague Bridge, the Gothic structure only became known as the Charles Bridge (or Karlův Most) in 1870. It is protected by two bridge towers…on the Lesser Quarter side, Malostranská věž and on the Old Town side, Staroměstská věž. Both towers can be climbed for an extraordinary view of the city and the bridge from above.

As you walk along the bridge, it is hard to believe that it was once open to car and tram traffic. Hoards of tourists stroll across its expanse every day, stopping to examine the statues of saints and patron saints that line the balustrade with the most popular being St. John of Nepomuk. The Czech martyr saint was executed during the reign of Wenceslas IV by being thrown into the river from the bridge. It is easy to find this statue from the plaque that has been polished to a shine by the countless people that line up to touch it for good luck every day. Most of the statues today are copies with the originals being found in the Lapidarium, part of the National Museum.

The bridge is also a popular area for Czech musicians and artists and souvenir vendors to display their wares. It is a great place to be entertained and to purchase unique finds. As I walked along the bridge most recently, I watched both a flutist and an accordionist perform and browsed numerous stands selling jewelry, photographs and artwork. It is a place that I come specifically when searching for paintings, as their are many types and styles available.

While everyone should make their way to the Charles Bridge when staying in Prague, do not expect your stroll to be a stress-free one. Thousands of tourists stroll and linger on the bridge hourly. You will find yourself dodging selfie-sticks and tour groups following their flag-wielding tour leader as they make their way from Old Town to the Lesser Town. A great time of the day to enjoy this bridge is at sunset so as to enjoy the Prague Castle against the evening sky. But…if you wish to have it almost all to yourself…go at night or the very early morning.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The Charles Bridge (Karlův Most)

http://www.prague.eu/cs/objekt/mista/93/karluv-most
Address: Charles Bridge, 110 00 Prague 1
Hours: Open continually
Admission: free
Getting there: Metro, A station Staroměstská, Tram, 6, 9, 17, 18, 22, station Národní divadlo, Bus, 294 station Mariánské náměstí

Old Town Bridge Tower (Staroměstská věž)

http://en.muzeumprahy.cz/201-the-old-town-bridge-tower/
Address: parc. č. 148, 110 00 Prague 1 – Old Town
Hours: November–February, 1000-1800, March, 1000-2000, April–September, 1000-2200, October, 1000-2000, daily
Admission: General, 90 CZK, Reduced 65 CZK, Family 250 CZK
Getting there: Metro, A station Staroměstská, Tram, 6, 9, 17, 18, 22, station Národní divadlo, Bus, 294 station Mariánské náměstí

The Lesser Town Bridge Tower (Malostranská věž)

http://en.muzeumprahy.cz/202-the-lesser-town-bridge-tower/
Address: čp. 57, 110 00 Prague 1 – Lesser Town
Hours: November–February, 1000-1800, March, 1000-2000, April–September, 1000-2200, October, 1000-2000, daily
Admission: General, 90 CZK, Reduced 65 CZK, Family 250 CZK
Getting There: Metro, A station Malostranská, Tram, 12, 20, 22 station, Malostranské náměstí

LIST OF STATUES ON CHARLES BRIDGE

Statues on the south side of the bridge

Statue of St. Ivo
Statues of saints Barbara, margaret and Elizabeth
Statue of the Lamentation of Christ
Statue of St. Joseph
Statue of St. Francis Xavier
Statue of St. Christopher
Statue of St. Farncis Borgia
Statue of St. Ludmila
Statue of St. Francis of Assisi
Statue of Saints Vincent Ferrer and Procopius +Bruncvik column
Statue of St. Nicholas of Tolentino
Statue of St. Luthgard (Dream of St. Luthgard)
Statue of St. Adalbert
Statues of Saints John of Matha, Felix of Valois and Ivan
Statue of St. Wenceslas

Statues on the north side of the bridge

Statue of the Madonna attending to St. Bernard
Statue of the Madonna, Saints Dominic and Thomas Aquinas
The Crucifix and Calvary
Statue of St. Anne
Statue of St. Cyril and St. Methodius
Statue of St. John the Baptist
Statue of Saints Norbert of Xanten, Wenceslas and Sigismund
Statue of St. John of Nepomuk
Statue of St. Anthony of Padua
Statue of St. Jude Thaddeus
Statue of St. Augustine
Statue of St. Cajetan
Statue of St. Philip Benitius
Statuary of St. Vitus
Statue of the Holy Savior with Cosmas and Damian

Czech-ing Out the Sights

Walking through the city of Prague, it is easy to be dumbfounded by its beauty. I have always been almost breathless looking out over the red rooftops and the amazing architecture at every corner, not knowing quite where to point my camera first.

There are many things to see and do while touring the city. During my visit with my son, I was anxious to show him some of the quaint attractions that I have grown to love in the city.

Exiting the Prague Castle’s main entrance, we walked through the Castle District (Hradcany) down to the west side of the Charles Bridge. The first thing on our agenda was the John Lennon Wall.

Once a regular wall, young Czechs decided to make it their slate for recording grievances during the communist regime of Gustáv Husák. Eventually, this led to a clash between hundreds of students and police on the nearby Charles Bridge. The movement these students followed was described ironically as “Lennonism”.

John Lennon, a hero to the youth, produced songs that praised freedom that did not exist in the communistic country. Western pop songs were banned by Communist authorities and some musicians were jailed for playing them. When Lennon was murdered in 1980, his picture was painted on the wall with graffiti defying the authorities. The threat of prison didn’t stop people from sneaking to the location during the dark of night to inscribe graffiti in the form of Beatles lyrics and odes to Lennon. Eventually, they returned to write their own feelings and dreams on the wall.

The original portrait of Lennon remains, but buried under many layers of new paint. At one time, the wall was repainted by authorities, but after a day passed, it was full of poems and flowers. On November 17, 2014, on the 25th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution, the wall was painted over completely with white paint by a group of art students, leaving only the text, “wall is over” a play on Lennon’s song, “War is Over”. Today, the wall, owned by the Knights of Malta, changes constantly. On the day that we were there, people were selling paint and paintbrushes. Many young tourists were busy decorating portions of the wall between the dozens of other tourists posing for pictures.

After a couple of quick pics, we moved on. Our next quick stop was at the Kampa waterwheel near the Lennon Wall. Always a favorite of mine, I love to stop here and watch the wheel turn in the Certovka river across from a small restaurant, Velkoprevorsky Mlyn. The restaurant has always been a source of fascination for me with its romantic small balcony hanging out over the river and two small tables. On impulse, I ran into the restaurant and made a reservation for the following night for my son and I, something I have always desired to do.

We were now getting a bit hungry…it was time for a snack…Trdelník. The sweet pastry, made from rolled dough, wrapped around a stick and grilled, then topped with sugar and walnut mix, is something anyone visiting Prague should have…at least once! There is a great little place on the end of the right side of the Charles Bridge in the Lesser Town. You can watch the skilled craftsmen roll the dough, wrap it around the round metal forms and bake it on the rotating rollers.

While devouring our Trdelnik, we ducked under the bridge and inspected the many “locks of love” that hang from the gates that line the canal. These locks are padlocks which couples secure to a public object, most often a bridge, to symbolize their love. Once the lock is fastened, the key is thrown away into the body of water to symbolize their unbreakable love. Though not as plentiful as what can be found on the Pont des Arts Bridge in Paris, there are many here and it has become quite a problem, as in other cities, as it damages the structure to which it is fastened.

As we continued our journey through the city, we stopped every so often to admire the many street performers that secure prime spots on street corners and in the Old Town Square. While everyone loves a good musician, there were some interesting acts that were quite mesmerizing. I have to admit, it took me a while to understand the floating man!

Later that evening, we headed toward one of my favorite spots to have a drink…the rooftop terrace at the U Prince hotel. When you enter the U Prince hotel, inform the hostess that you would like to go up to the terrace and she will direct you to the elevator. After exiting the elevator, a few more steps will lead you to another hostess who will seat you at the Terasa U Prince. Expect higher prices than other eateries or bars, but it is most definitely a trade off for the beautiful view of Old Town!

Finally, to cap off the evening, we grabbed some gelato right outside of the U Prince and decided to watch the Astronomical Clock put on its hourly show one more time! A great way to end a busy but wonderful day!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Lennon Wall

Address: Velkopřevorské náměstí, 100 00 Praha 1, Czech Republic
Admission: Free
Hours: Open continually
How to Get There: From metro station Malostranska (green line A) take trams no. 12, 20, 22, 23. The nearest tram stops to Velkoprevorske namesti are either Malostranske namesti or Hellichova.

Velkoprevorsky Mlyn Restaurant

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Velkop%C5%99evorsk%C3%BD-Ml%C3%BDn/143838909015104
Address: Hroznová 489/3, 118 00 Praha, Czech Republic

Terasa U Prince

https://www.terasauprince.com/terrace
Address: Terasa U Prince, Staroměstské náměstí 29, Praha 1, 110 00, Czech Republic
Hours: 1100-2330, daily
How To Get There: Old Town, walking from center of square, past the Astrological Clock (on right) towards the river, the Hotel U Prince is on the left.

Astronomical Clock

http://www.staromestskaradnicepraha.cz/en/astronomical-clock/
Address: Staroměstské nám. 1, 110 00 Praha 1, Czech Republic
Hours: Visit the Tower, Monday, 1100-2200, Tuesday-Sunday, 0900-2200
Admission: Tower, Adults, 130 CZK, Children, ages 6-15, Students under 26, Senior over 65, 80 CZK, Children, ages 4-6, 30 CZK, Family admission (2 adults, 4 children, up to age 15), 280 CZK
How To Get There: Old Town center

The Castle on the Hill

When someone finds themselves in Prague for the very first time, no doubt, they will be drawn to the Prague Castle. A showpiece of the city, it is perched above the Lesser Town (Mala Strana) in the Castle District and keeps a watchful eye on the activities of the city.

One of the largest castle complexes in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site, it was founded in the 9th century by Prince Bořivoj of the Premyslid Dynasty. Consisting of numerous palaces and ecclesiastical buildings of various architectural styles, the castle is the official residence of the President of the Czech Republic. Once a seat of power for kings of Bohemia, Holy Roman emperors and presidents of Czechoslovakia, it is one of the primary tourist attractions of the city.

Up early and heading on the subway towards the Castle, we were excited for all that there was to experience in the complex. On previous visits, I had been on the Castle grounds but had never visited any of the major buildings. Exiting the Malostranska metro station, we decided to make the long steady climb to the castle rather than connect to the tram so that we could experience the beautiful views of the city along the way as well as encounter the Karel Hasler statue and the usual accompanying guitarist.

Once inside the complex, finding where to purchase tickets was a bit perplexing. Entering the Old Royal Palace, I finally discovered a ticket window. Many different attraction combinations are offered and we decided on Option B, the most popular option (according to the ticket seller) which included the Royal Palace and Vladislav Hall, St. Vitus Cathedral, Basilica of St. George and Golden Lane. After our tickets were purchased and we were waiting to enter Vladislav Hall within the palace, I noticed that now familiar sign…the one with the camera and a slash through it. Oh no! Not again! However, after reading a little further, I found that pictures were allowed with a permit that could also be purchased at the ticket window.

Entering Vladislav Hall, we were impressed with the size of the structure as well as the arch-ribbed vaulting of the ceiling, the large Italian Renaissance windows and the five bronze 16th century Renaissance chandeliers. Originally designed to serve as a throne hall, it was the largest hall in medieval Prague and one of the largest halls in Central Europe. Built in the Late Gothic Style with some Early Renaissance features, the exact dates of construction are not clear. Used for banquets, councils, coronations and indoor jousting tournaments, one of the most notable features is the Rider’s Staircase on the northern side which was designed to receive a knight on horseback.

One of the oldest parts of the Prague Castle, the Old Royal Palace dates back to 1135. Moving from Vladislav Hall in the southwestern corner into the former offices of the Bohemian Chancellery, you find the room where Protestant nobles, rebelling against the Bohemian estates and the emperor, threw two of the emperor’s counselors and their secretary out of the window, which sparked the Thirty Years’ War.

At the eastern end of the hall, steps lead up to a balcony that overlooks All Saints’ Chapel. Another doorway, leads to the Assembly Hall, which contains replicas of the Bohemian crown jewels. A spiral staircase leads to the New Land Rolls Room, the repository for land titles, where the walls are covered with the clerks’ coats of arms.

A couple of the most interesting stories about the castle pertain to the procurement of the castle by Nazi Germany in 1939. When President Emil Hacha was forced to hand the Czech nation over to the Germans, Adolf Hitler spent a night in the castle gloating over his new acquisition. During the Nazi occupation in World War II, the castle became the headquarters of Reinhard Heydrich, the “Reich Protector of Bohemia and Moravia”. Placing the Bohemian crown on his own head, he was doomed according to legend, which states that if a despot places the crown on his head, he is doomed to die within a year. Less than a year after assuming power, he was attacked by British-trained Slovak and Czech soldiers while on his way to the castle and died of his wounds.

The Old Royal Palace was very interesting and filled with history. The old saying, “If the walls could talk”, is definitely true here as many historical events have taken place on the premises.

Moving on from the Old Royal Palace, we decided to backtrack from the Palace towards our original entry point, to Golden Lane, the 15th century, old world street within the complex. Originally known as Goldsmith’s Lane for the many goldsmiths that resided there, it was created when a new outer wall was added to the existing complex.

Once when visiting the castle grounds, I was able to quickly walk through Golden Lane at the end of the day when the grounds were closing, but unable to catch more than a glimpse of the old world buildings. This time, we were able to visit each of the eleven historic houses that contain period scenes that depict the life of the artisans who worked and lived in the structures.

In the upper level of the houses, a medieval armory is showcased with a multitude of suits of armor and weapons. Cannons are also displayed in the courtyard at the entry area of the lane.

After our visit to Golden Lane was complete and we headed back toward the center of the complex, we decided to duck into St. George’s Basilica, while there was no line. The oldest surviving church building within the complex and the second oldest in Prague, the basilica was founded by Vratislaus I of Bohemia in 920. Rebuilt after being destroyed by fire in 1142, the present facade, with its twin white towers than can been seen throughout the city, was added between the years of 1671 and 1691. The basilica holds the tomb of saint Ludmila of Bohemia as well as shrines of Vratislav and Boleslaus II of Bohemia. It also serves as a concert hall.

Our next and final visit was to the imposing Gothic structure of St. Vitus’ Cathedral. To many people, the Prague Castle is St. Vitus Cathedral as it is what dominates the skyline. Known primarily as St. Vitus Cathedral, it is also dedicated to Saints Wenceslas and Adalbert.

The largest and most important church in the country, St. Vitus was founded on November 21, 1344. Taking almost six centuries to complete, it was damaged by a great fire in 1541 and its final phase of construction took place between 1873 and 1929.

The line to enter St. Vitus was extremely long and was hampered by the security measures employed at the entrance. After an hour’s wait, we were finally able enter the cathedral.

As we walked throughout the interior, we stood among the massive pillars supporting the magnificent vaulted ceiling and were impressed by the side chapels and the beautiful stained glass windows, most notably one designed by Mucha, installed in the north nave in 1931. The window, portrays St. Wenceslas, as a boy, with his grandmother, St. Ludmila, surrounded by episodes from the lives of Saints Cyril and Methodius who spread Christianity among the Slavs. The image of Slavia is also included below Christ.

The extraordinary cathedral has overseen the coronation of Czech kings and queens and contains the tombs of many Bohemian kings and Holy Roman Emperors. In the chancel of the cathedral, in front of the high alter, is the royal mausoleum. Below this, the royal crypt accommodates the royal tombs. Czech kings and queens, archbishops and patron saints of the country are interred here, most importantly, St. John of Nepomuk and King Charles IV.

The most exceptional part of the cathedral is St. Wenceslas Chapel, built between 1344 and 1364 and is where the relics of the saint are kept. The lower part of the walls are decorated with over 1300 semi-precious stones and frescoes of the Passion of Christ. The upper walls’ paintings depict the life of St. Wenceslas and a Gothic statue of St. Wenceslas stands in the middle of the wall. The chapel is not open to the public, but it can be viewed from two doorways. It is also here that the priceless Bohemian coronation jewels, the fourth oldest in Europe, are stored behind a small door secured by seven locks. The Czech Crown Jewels are only displayed to the public once every eight years, however, the replicas can be seen in the Old Royal Palace.

Religious services in the Cathedral can be attended daily and confessions are heard twice a week.

After visiting all of the attractions included in our ticket, we were free to wander the grounds of the castle. There are many other parts of the castle to visit, including the gardens, St. George’s convent and the National Gallery, the exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, the Powder Tower, the Toy Museum and the picture gallery of Prague Castle. One of the most memorable things to take in is the changing of the guard which takes place hourly on the hour with the midday ceremony including a fanfare & banner exchange.

No visit to the Czech capital is complete without a visit to the Prague Castle. Whether you decide to walk the grounds or purchase a ticket and visit one of the many historical buildings within the grounds, you will not be disappointed with all that there is to offer.

For additional pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The Prague Castle

https://www.hrad.cz/
Address: Prague Castle, Castle District, Prague 1, Czech Republic
Admission Information: https://www.hrad.cz/en/prague-castle-for-visitors/tickets
Ticket Type: Prague Castle – Circuit A, Adults 350CZK, Students 175CZK, Family 700CZK
St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower, Powder Tower
Ticket Type: Prague Castle – Circuit B, Adults, 250CZK, Students 125CZK, Family 500CZK
St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower
Prague Castle – Circuit C, Adults 350CZK, Students 175CZK, Family 700CZK
Exhibition “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral”, Prague Castle Picture Gallery
Exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, Adults 140CZK, Students 70CZK, Family 280CZK
Exhibition “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral”, Adults 300CZK, Students 150CZK, Family 600CZK
Prague Castle Picture Gallery, Adults 100CZK, Students 50CZK, Family 200CZK
Powder Tower – Exhibition of the Castle Guard, Adults 70CZK, Students 40CZK, Family 140CZK
Great South Tower with a View Gallery, Adults 150CZK
Note: Tickets are valid for two consecutive days.
Photography Permit, 50CZK, photography allowed without flash and tripod, prohibited in exhibitions “The Story of Prague Castle”, “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral” and in Prague Castle Picture Gallery
Hours: Prague Castle Complex, daily 0600-2200, Historical buildings, April 1-October 31, 0900-1700, November 1-March 31, 0900-1600, Prague Castle Gardens, April & October, 1000-1800, May & September, 1000-1900, June & July 1000-2100, August, 1000-2000, Changing of the Guard, April-October, hourly on the hour, 0700-2000, November-March, hourly on the hour, 0700-1800
St. Vitus Cathedral Masses: Sunday Mass, 0830 (celebrated in Latin every last Sunday of the month), Sunday Vespers, 1700 (not during July-September), Monday-Thursday Mass, 0700, Friday Masses, 0700 and 1800, Saturday Mass, 0700, Confessions (Czech and English) Sunday, 0930-1000 and Friday, 1730-1750.
Getting There: Metro station: Malostranska (line A), then take tram 22 to Prazsky hrad (shortest route). You can also walk the many steps uphill from Malostranska.